Best products from r/GoRVing

It's easy enough to check :) Have fun on your trip. RV camping without facilities is a good skill to have under your belt. A camping group I'm in took our three RVs up to Rocky Mountain National Park. It was a great time and we were all nerding out about how much battery we had, etc because you have a pretty narrow charge window there. It really became useful when a 4th showed up with no generator and we were able to help them out because we knew exactly what our status was and what we needed to get through the night.

If you are a gadget guy, this can be a handy thing to have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1Q2HOQ

What makes it different from other meters is it can show you DC current as well as AC just clamping over a wire. Most cheap meters only do AC current via the clamp and measuring DC current is more involved.
That can be SUPER handy for seeing how much power your batteries are taking in during the charge cycle or putting out during the discharge part of the day. The meter does other stuff too a multimeter would which is good to have in the field.

Not OP, but have done some vehicle/trailer lighting/wiring before.

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Working with 12V DC is relatively safe, just make sure not to short the ends. You can, of course, disconnect the battery if you're worried about it (if you're not worried about it, just leave the outside light switch off or find the fuse that goes to it and flip it off). I've wired up a good bit of stuff in 12VDC with it live and haven't ever been shocked, though that's not to say there isn't risk. At a minimum I'd recommend shutting off the light switch.

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You should be able to use something like these here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SXGS94/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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but those aren't the *greatest* at staying put on, so you may try something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/WenTop-Waterproof-Flexible-Lighting-Bathroom/dp/B01GJ3O0J8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=12v+led+strip&qid=1554391819&s=gateway&sr=8-7

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What you're looking for are 12V LED Light strips.

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I'd recommend getting some waterproof, and adhesion would be my main concern as I'm driving down the highway, I wouldn't want them blowing off.

haha, ok, quick version:

- you need two of the "backup cameras" that have two cables, 12v dc jack and rca video

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018800TR2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mlkUCbNWR7JRR

- you need a wireless transmitter/receiver

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0755W578J/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ykkUCbD4WXJ0G

- and a lcd display up front

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7KKVW7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_jmkUCbVRA5WVG

One camera is mounted on the back of the trailer facing the road

One camera is mounted on the trailer tongue jack facing down at the hitch

An RCA Y-splitter joins the two camera video cables and feeds it to the wireless transmitter

the 12v+ power is connected to a switch (on1-off-on2) on1 sends power to camera1, off is off, on2 sends power to camera2

In your vehicle connect the receiver and display.

When it is time to hitch up, flip the power to the tongue jack camera, backup confidently being able to see yourself place the ball right under the hitch

Get out, hitch up, flip the switch to the rear camera and now enjoy seeing behind the trailer while driving.

Note, put the transmitter up by the tongue jack camera so that you minimize the distance the wireless signal needs to transmit.

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Good luck, it's an awesome system.

Gotcha. A couple of "pointers" for you to consider: If you're 6'1" and your son is growing, make sure to check the bed size. Many trailer's beds aren't designed for taller folks and end up having to sleep diagonally. Silly as it sounds, buy a clear sewer hose fitting. (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Camco-39847-RhinoFLEX-Degree-Fitting/dp/B006OQ35GU), When you clear out your tanks, you can make sure it is flowing clear water out of your black tank. Budget for "other" camping items that you didn't use when you were car camping. Everything from 5 gallon water jugs, chocks, gas tanks, levelers are a start. Jumping to an RV involves more purchases than you will think of at first. If you're buying a used camper, make sure you have it professionally inspected. You'd be surprised what you can find out with an inspection. I'm at work so I'll try and add more if I can think of other tips for you!

My top five purchases for the travel trailer beyond the basic requirements.

1. [Harbor freight trailer tool box] (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-60302.html) mounted on the rear bumper for campfire tools
   
   
2. [Camco black tank flush] (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40126-Tornado-Rotary-Rinser/dp/B000BUU5TU/)
   
   
   
3. [Makita 18 volt leaf blower] (https://www.amazon.com/Makita-DUB183Z-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Blower/dp/B00QDTGFCY) and drill.
   The leaf blower is great for cleaning up around camp and also helping feed the fire.
   The drill is useful for driving down the stabilizers and an repair tool.
   
   
   
4. [BAL single tire chock] (https://www.amazon.com/BAL-Single-R-V-Products-Group/dp/B01LW2F1G6/)
   Super awesome since it clamps the tire it eliminates all the tire wiggle.
   
   
5. Adding a truck stereo with backup camera.
   This ended all the issues with hitching the trailer. I basically do it on my own now only having to get out and look maybe once.
   
   

i've also broken many of the cheapo plastics, but these right here, these are great. heavy rubber, nice and tall, molded in handle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJ85Q3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do have xchocks - they go on last just stabilize. but for general "don't roll away" chocking, i love these big heavy rubber ones.

I bake in mine all the time and its great! I have THIS pizza stone on the bottom of the oven right over the thin metal plate that guards the burner. It fits perfectly in the oven. I also have an oven thermometer in there to make sure it's properly preheated I found my knob is about 25 degrees off. Lastly, I'm sure to rotate half way through cooking.

Not what you're asking but I've used this and it's great. The dimensions are in the listing, maybe it will fit?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AO2VMA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installation is very basic, but may be difficult depending on your setup. You just need to buy a wire like this one: http://amzn.com/B015RLUAV0 and route it from the voltage/current meter to your battery. Depending on where you mount the display, feeding the wire through to the battery may or may not be easy for you. I was able to mount mine by the thermostat and tank/battery meter in my trailer, but maybe I was lucky that wall was relatively easy to work with.

I'd also suggest getting some connectors like these: http://amzn.com/B00NWEL7TO for connecting to the battery.

At the battery, one wire goes to the positive end, one to the negative, and the other two go on both sides of the shunt that comes with the display. It has illustrated instructions.

Excellent choice. You could have saved money and gone with another product but you did it properly. :D

Here are some items I have that I love using;

LevelMate Pro

Progressive Industries Surge Protector

Andersen Jack Blocks

I also want to purchase the Anderson Leveling kit as I have a standard leveling kit and it sucks.

Any first time plans? RV site near home or living in the backyard?

I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/


But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/

I use this for my TT. I have a single axle as well. Even though this comes with 4 sensors, you can use only 2 if you wish.
I bought this after a blowout as well and it has been great. Drove 2000 miles this summer so far and no issues at all.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7BFCJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Steadyfast and Camco Stack Jacks work for us pretty good. Not sure if it would ever get rock solid like a sticks and bricks.

DIY`ed my own this winter, have not really given it a full test yet. At home seems to work.

I used a Netgear Extender, the ac750: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R92CL5E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Took it apart, pretty easy, replaced the antenna connector with these pig tails: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GMBUS8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Used these cables to extend the antennas to my fridge vent, where they are mounted to the big plastic frigde vent cover.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085X3PRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Should work, but like i said, only tested at home.

Most trailers only have stabilizing jacks. They just prevent movement while you are walking around the trailer. We bought these levelers. They are super easy to use.

Youtube video

Suspect Amazon will be your new best friend.

sample x chock for tandem axle trailer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XLHUQG/

sample stabilizer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P2TWBE

sample hose carrier https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAU762Z

If it's not marked non-potable and doesn't have signs saying not to do that (some places have limited water), then yes. Just remember that other people may have done unsanitary things to the spigot, and recently I heard about a guy that found worms in one. I always run it first, look into it, then connect. A fill tube with a screen is a good idea also. I use this, and added a screen to it:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX850

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A water bandit will help you connect to arbitrary water sources that don't have a normal screw connection, such as faucets at fish cleaning stations:

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https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Connects-Standard-Various-Sources/dp/B000EDOSKG

> Fantastic vent fan insulating pillow

like this?

A bit of advice my friend: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OQ35GU?keywords=see%20through%20sewer%20elbow%20rv&qid=1458621948&ref_=sr_1_fkmr1_2&sr=8-2-fkmr1

It's isn't empty until it runs clear. Keep the chute closed until she's full, then open. Close again, fill with water, then flush one more time.

Sounds like you might benefit from a tank spray attachment!

I want to say years ago...when I was growing up, we have an older prowler.

I may be wrong, but I believe it did NOT have scissor jacks. It have something like those V's pointing down. I then used something like this (below link) to put under the V and screw it up to meet the V...making it a stabilizer

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Olympian-Aluminum-Stabilize-Position/dp/B000760FWU/ref=zg_bs_3147821011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7CSVX602VG780PZ9NERC

Two options are:

1. Valterra RV Stabilizer
   
2. Camco Aluminum Stabilizer
   
   Tuck either one up under the frame of the camper. You might try different spots to see where they work best. Usually the corners are what get stablized in travel trailers.

This would be a great time to purchase a x-chock. If installed correctly tires will not move.

X-Chock Wheel Stabilizer - Pair - One Handle - 28012 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XLHUQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O4MSCbWNPTA9A

Ohh and I wanted to share this incase you wanted a bit more stability. huge difference.

The black ones definitely let in less light, but if you are simply looking to insulate and block light cheaply and without installing anything these work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-39847-RhinoFLEX-Degree-Fitting/dp/B006OQ35GU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485899520&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=rv+sewer+elbow+see+through

So you will now the crapper is clean.

> I used mine last weekend, since it was the first time I've been to a place that had a dump station that still had the end on the hose.

The spigot where the water comes out hook up to? This gizmo is awesome for those situations. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-22484-Water-Bandit-Lead/dp/B000EDOSKG

Check out water bandits for cases like this: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22484-Water-Bandit/dp/B000EDOSKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459265676&sr=8-1&keywords=water+bandit

Lived in Madison, WI last winter in my RV. You will need heat tape around your black water tank and piping. As for the water hose, heat tape with insulation for that or buy an extra fancy hose with it already inside. There is also black tank antifreeze we used that we found at Menards for a couple bucks. To go around the outside of the rv you will need either some sort of skirting, or insulation panels. The goal is not to let wind gusts under your rv. We used clear duct tape and white tarp around our entire trailer held down with PVC pipes and cinder blocks. Inside if you have a patio door you will need to heat tape around it because it will freeze shut and the only way to open it will be with a blow dryer. Plastic window shrink wrap all windows, and put a blanket over doors you don't use. Use these vent pillows.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024E6QX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509510577&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rv+vent+pillow&dpPl=1&dpID=31oBzadZDDL&ref=plSrch.

Make sure your heater works (ours had a frog in it and had to be replaced). This will get you through a winter with sub zero temps.

If its above freezing during the day and barely below freezing at night you won't need to be this extreme. Heat tape and/or leaving the water run just a bit would do the trick.

Around here the spigots are mostly threaded though I did buy one of these just in case.