(Part 2) Best products from r/HVAC

I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.

Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.

Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.

Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.

Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.

As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.

In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.

As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the temperature extremes. during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.

edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.

> You can use Energizer ultimate lithium batteries then you can probably change every 5 years, but every year is easier to remember.....

Came here to say this. They are available locally, but you can get them here or just see what they look like:

• AmazonSmile: Energizer AA Lithium Batteries, World's Longest Lasting Double A Battery, Ultimate Lithium (12 Count): Health & Personal Care
  
  However, I recommend getting rechargeables like these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):
  
  
• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer. If you charge them once per year, they could last 40 years or longer.
  
  Either way, having them on hand in all your devices, including AC, makes it easy to always have compatible AA batteries around for whatever needs them, so things are working NOW, instead of needing to go buy new batteries or wait for something to charge.

HOLY snikees! Everything really IS bigger in texas! Buy your dream unit online for pennies on the dollar. uncrate them, call for a quote to install these units that you "won the lowest bid on". They might not like it, but if you go with a trusted company, you will save a few thousand.Like this,.. And this. You need a 3 ton system, maybe 3.5 if your windows are old, and no insulation. If you have an energy efficient home, maybe a 2.5 ton. Perfect ac is relative to how tight your house is. It used to be based on a walkthrough viewing how weather tight it is. now a days it's all perfectly calculated. In my opinion, it's perfectly calculated to under cool; based on the humidity demands, and air filtration, and lack of fresh air intake to make a home livable.. Just my opinion tho.

> You can probably make a hot aisle with less than $50 in hardware....

Wow really? Could you give a brief run down on the hardware I'd need to look at for my use case? And thank you so much by the way for taking the time to help me with all of this, I feel like I have learned and progressing very quickly due to your guidance.

Okay so 10 inch inline fans it is:


I'm trying to decide which one to buy as most of my options I have chosen so far are quite expensive so I should choose wisely.


Here are my options for 10 inch inline fans so far:

Hyper Fan Digital Mixed Flow Fan - 10 Inch | 1065 CFM | Energy Efficient Technology, Quiet Operation - 1065 rated CFM @ 170 Watt - $204.51x2

Or

Hyper Fan Stealth 10 in 1065 CFM - 1065 rated CFM @ ??? Watt - $336.99x2 - Supposed to be much quieter?



Would you know of any other 10 inch fans I can hook up with ducting rated for high static pressure like these fans that have 170 watts or less with rated 1000+ CFM? Or are these two choices my best bet?



Also is the "Stealth version" of the 10 inch Hyper fan you think worth it? Will it blow just as much air as the non stealth version or do you think with that added stuff to enclosure of the fan it will produce less air flow?

You oil and beat to get your motor off? Ok that did not sound right lol but anyways, I would suggest that you invest in a wheel puller.

https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Wheel-Puller-Original-Version/dp/B001CGFQDW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1PF6TH183QH2Z&keywords=hvac+wheel+puller&qid=1565732781&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+wheel%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-3

I use one all the time and I never have any troubles. It is like God blesses me every time I have to pull a motor off.

If the little "flags" still exist and are still welded onto the pins that exit the compressor, then get new heavy duty fast-on connectors for the wire and push the fast-on onto the flag.

If the flags are gone, get rescue terminals like this:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Qwik-Products-QT2810-3-Terminal-Repair-Lugs-Bag-10-AWG-2-ft-Leads-w-Nut?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpavpBRDQARIsAPfTwixfDxNIXocFiCotNK0ZcfvFb-J5uviFr9kmSy7qe7TNVXjNGe6BRK8aAnBKEALw_wcB

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC

Also, check Ebay for (possibly) better prices.

If you want to get going sooner, you can use tie wire to temporarily secure the electrical wire to the compressor terminal.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-mechanics-wire-97773.html

I have an electrical engineering degree, and I'm... not afraid to take things apart. I know where the electrical disconnect is, and how to use it. I've replaced swamp cooler motor bearings before... I'm not totally clueless. I've worked on HV equipment before (CRT TVs - worked in a TV repair shop as a teen) and am aware of the risk of stored energy in capacitors, and how to discharge them.

All that said, I know in this case, that I probably don't know everything. There is probably some obvious to you thing that I'm totally overlooking. I don't know HVAC well at all. I'm guessing that I can easily find a replacement cap, but since I have to travel to the site and disassemble the thing, then order a part, and return later to finish the repair. I do see the cap marking on the label, (says yellow/brown wires...) I do also see where it says

'CAP 5.00/370v' - so is that 5 mfd? 500 mfd? and 370V ac rating.

I could actually test the cap before I replace it (assuming my fluke multimeter cap testing setting would work) but I'm trying to reduce the number of trips I have to take there. This is an empty house I own that is on the market. It is not convienient to drive there. I'm somewhat worried - assuming this is a 5mfd cap then I think spec-wise this would work:

https://www.amazon.com/97F9970-Volt-Round-Capacitor-Upgrade/dp/B00EVTH6QW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

but I don't know if it is the right form-factor - if it would physically fit.

I'm mostly just trying to save myself an extra trip there - I could tear it apart, buy the part, and return to put it all back together.

How likely is it that I could find a motor-service store, or an HVAC guy in suburban Utah that would sell me the part same day?

Need to adjust the air vents, not necessarily the main shutoff valve. The air vent releases air in the radiator, allowing the steam in. If you slow down this rate of release you slow down how fast the steam (heat) gets to the radiator. I'd recommend this book if you plan on staying at this home for a better understanding on how this heat system works: We Got Steam Heat! https://www.amazon.com/dp/0974396001/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_CCQQwbFQDG99S

Yeah look for idronics, you can request copies but they are all probably online. They also have monthly webinars that get put on YouTube eventually.

Another good read would be https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1428335153

Also anything by Dan Holohan

Yep it's simple as that you can get in electronics stem thermometer get yourself a couple of them from Amazon. 50 degrees outside you should have at least 20 degree temperature rise through the heat pump. I'm assuming that both units are going to be having a return air that is pretty much the same. Milder temperatures they should be able to have a better idea of how the charge is. If the line set is licking the only way they can determine that if they would have to shut down your heat pump and pressure test. Might have to let it sit for a week or two see if it loses pressure. These work well for checking temperatures

UEi Test Instruments PDT650 Folding Pocket Digital Thermometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7WO1DbKY1XHGF

The best thing I've found for hard water areas around here is this
http://www.amazon.com/Aprilaire-800-Residential-Steam-Humidifier/dp/B005DS4YY2

It's Expensive, but it's designed for hard water areas and very easy to service. I've installed a few of them and have heard nothing but good things.

Invest in a pair of these. You will be happy you did come winter.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LJ6FX3C/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b3jWR1n_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=EM32WNCEQJZH0WWJ44HG&pf_rd_r=EM32WNCEQJZH0WWJ44HG&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=f4d4a7eb-ba44-5a06-8cad-009da804e7ae&pf_rd_p=f4d4a7eb-ba44-5a06-8cad-009da804e7ae&pf_rd_i=3421064011

Use something like Honeywell's Aube RC840T-120 and you can connect any low-voltage thermostat to control that fan.

http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Hydronic-Heating-Residential-Commercial/dp/1428335153

this is a good one for hydronics. also can't go wrong with keeping a copy of pumping away and primary secondary pumping made easy

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Secondary-Pumping-Made-Easy-Holohan/dp/0974396079

FRIGIDAIRE Energy Star 15,000 BTU 115V Window-Mounted Median Air Conditioner with Full-Function Remote Control, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFNGZVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4BYqDb1D5VZW0

That one ok?

Don't do it. Fire Hazard.

Try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Broan-Nutone-509S-Through-Ventilation-Exhaust/dp/B0002YTNB6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Broan+Nutone+180+Cfm&qid=1568689156&s=gateway&sr=8-2

on the ouside wall, with an intake on the opposite or with door open only.

A Aprilaire 800 would work on a system like that but are considerably more expensive, It uses electricity to produce steam and you simply pipe a probe into the duct work. They produce an incredible amount of steam if done correctly, if you do end up going this route make sure you find a decent company to install them, they have very specific installation instructions and alot of people screw it up. Amazon Link

I would just stick the probe inside the grates? Something like below device would work?

https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-PDT650-Thermometer/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W5255YO2AKBR&keywords=hvac+temperature+probe&qid=1563531434&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+tempe%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-3

You can use one of these with a cheap thermostat.

I personally have a relay tied into my smart house to control my basement baseboard heat.

You need new wires. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC

As far as contactor not energizing it might be another issue but the compreasor should run if you push contactor in manually. It won't start with those burned wires though. If anything you can bypass the board u till you get a replacement.

There are several on Amazon.com under $20. See here for one that would work for your purposes.

I've ragged out that one. Now I use--- https://www.amazon.com/Sensible-Products-Ultimate-Blower-Puller/dp/B001CGFQDW

I've been sent back on too many other tech call backs because they shook the blower wheel off the shaft and ruined its balance.