(Part 2) Best products from r/Harley

Ok, so the first thing I would do is find a 2013 HD Factory Service Manual (Hint; a Google search will pop up a pdf version at the great price of free). The factory manual specifically details each electrical connector type and how to properly unhook/open/access them. THIS IS THE BEST TOOL YOU CAN HAVE! (I can't stress that enough that's why I yelled it.) Also, you should find a good online OEM parts microfiche. The same applies as above, a Google search will easily link you to a few. Side note: Maybe the part is cheaper than the work, unfortunately I like to work.

Secondly, use the correct tools. The best $20 I spent was on a sweet professional electrical connector crimp tool. This is the one I use. The same company also sells different types of electrical connectors. Not knowing how deep down the motorcycle rabbit hole you are, I personally purchased some of the connector kits. But, they also sell individual connectors. Here are some of those. If not there, that giant online web retailer has some individual connectors often used on HD's. Just be sure of the connector name and give it a search (Service manual will tell you the names). A quick one I did returned this as an example.

Pro Tip: Also, get connector tools. These are invaluable for opening some terminals. Yes, most of the time a good pick set will work. But, my experience with pick sets as connector tools has been sometimes one of pain (stabbing into my fingers, hand, etc.) and complete frustration (breaking old, weathered, brittle connectors, breaking wire shielding). Just to be clear, I don't work or get any compensation from the companies I mentioned. I'm merely a customer who has had a good experience and choose now to use them for my business.

Pro Tip #2: Take the rear wheel off to make the job easier. Yeah you may be able to squeeze a hand up there but it has been my experience that having the room to work is nice. And, then you can actually see too.

Thirdly, if you need to... beef up how the wire is managed in the rear fender. Automotive adhesive like they use on some auto trims and emblems is great for adding a plastic zip-tie anchor point. Just make sure the fender is clean and it'll stick great.

Last but not least, don't be afraid to reach out for help. The company of the crimp tool and connectors I use has great support and resources. The local parts counter maybe not so much (depends on your parts guy). I'm hesitant to say use videos off that one internet site, something tube... but use good judgement. If it's Joe-blo and his potato camera and his baby momma yelling in the back ground I probably wouldn't use that video. You can DM me as well, I can't promise to know everything but I can help to the best of my ability.

And, when your all done marvel in your work with a nice cold beer or soda. Just kidding, go out and crack the throttle.

I swear by leather chaps. I wear em even if it's 100F outside. The hot sun directly on the tops of my legs sucks, but the chaps provide an air-gap insulation layer.

I ride in that temp comfortably with not much problem, provided it's not a really long ride (without heated gear). I had expected to read that you'd bundled way up against the cold and still decided that was enough. Did you really just add chaps to your regular riding gear?

Here's what i wear other than normal "Clothes, jacket, gloves, and chaps"-

Good spandex thermals like Harley's "Ice Breakers" top and bottom. They're not the knit ones like the white long-johns, they're the kind you get at sporting goods stores for snow-boarders and skiers. Super thin, super comfy, and super warm.

Zipper hoodie- There's different weight hoodies. When I ride in cold temps, I grab my $100 super-heavy weight, thumb holes in the cuffs, "too heavy to wear indoors like ever" hoodie.

Glove liners made of silk or spandex- same stuff the thermals are made of. Makes all the difference until you're on the bike for more than 45 minutes. If I'm riding longer than that in real cold, I add another pair of glove liners. They're $12 a pair on Amazonhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IUH9UKG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A fleece "turtle neck" sleeve that pulls down over my head to cover my face below the eyes, ears, and neck. They're usually 10-12" long and two layers of fleece. http://www.amazon.com/Chaos--CTR-Chinook-Fleece-Gaiter/dp/B002ZG7RCG/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1414855281&sr=1-5&keywords=fleece+neck+warmer

Knit watch cap- pulled down over my ears.

Once the sleeve is down over my face and the watch cap is down over my ears, I strap on the helmet. You can fold the sleeve down to expose your face if you get too warm while waiting at lights and to pull the bike out of the garage while the wife does whatever (happens a LOT when I dress like this, which means it's warm enough to ride :). If my face gets cold through the sleeve even, I tie a bandana over my face, old-west bandit style "This is a stick-up. Hand over the loot".

Glasses or goggles that cover the slit made between beanie and face sleeve. Glasses should be one-piece plastic frames that allow no air to pass between the lenses and the bridge of the nose. Wire frame glasses allow the eyes to dry out.

When finally dressed like this (but with leather chaps, jackets, and gloves and the rest of your normal street clothes) you sorta look like the guy in the middle- http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2013/12/31/article-2531409-1A59815500000578-260_634x456.jpg

Last Christmas I rode from Berkeley, CA to Rocklin, CA, 125 miles away in 40F weather going up in the late morning and 30F weather going back home late-nite. It wasn't until the last 20 minutes of the ride home that my hands and crotch got unpleasantly cold, but not so cold that it was painful.

Hope this helps.

Yeah... There’s not much to it, but It works for me since I don’t like side-bags (there’s a small swingarm bag as well on the opposite side that you can’t see in this pic).

I bit the bullet and bought a detachable Harley sissy bar for the back, with an integrated luggage rack (you can see my jacket bundled up on it behind the duffel).

When I pack for more than a day I use that duffel bag with a medium/large spider bungee cord (also from HD), on top of the rear seat so it doesn’t rub on the paint. Packs enough for a long weekend easily, maybe a bit more than a week in the summer with lighter clothes.

Best part is, if you pack it correctly—with the soft stuff towards your back—it makes for a great backrest on long rides!

well any product you choose, the generic maps are not going to be the best solution for your bike. very rarely would you not want to tune or have the map tuned specifically for your bike.

here is the download page for the generic maps. http://www.dynojet.com/powervision/PowerVisionMapsTunesDownloads.aspx


as you can see by the tune options, the tunes are pretty generic. these are very similar to the tunes you're going to get from any other product, which is why you will want to go ahead and tune it. the perk of the power vision is you can tune it yourself.

auto tune is so easy http://youtu.be/l1fppB5rSYo



everyone and their brother will recommend you purchase your power vision from fuelmoto, because they have great customer service and will give you custom tunes to closer match your bikes configuration. i recommend purchasing your power vision from the cheapest retailer you can find, because the point of the power vision is to make your own tune. thus negating them supplying you with tunes and the need to deal with their customer service.


the tune you make is going to be better than any tune given to you unless they actually take your bike and make a map for you.


i got mine from some random retailer on amazon two years ago and haven't had any problems. i also use this handlebar mount http://www.amazon.com/Arkon-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Mount-Garmin/dp/B003FMUP0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410287588&sr=8-1&keywords=gps+handlebar+mount


had to go to ace hardware to find screws that would secure the pv to the mount but it was a great price and being plastic has not left any marks on my handlebars.

I just wanted to say, from one matte black 883N owner to another, your iron looks awesome. Its a great example of why I love this model, because while yours and mine are very different, they look like they should be riding together in a pack

http://i.imgur.com/xha3GFh.jpg

Can't wait to see the finished product.

If you EVER need a perfect match for the harley black denim, its here:

http://www.amazon.com/ColorRite-HARLEY-DAVIDSON-BLACK-DENIM/dp/B00BTJN2ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394838786&sr=8-1&keywords=colorrite+harley+black+denim

I did my mini fairing and a few other bits with that exact kit...they are a spot on match.

What is the other bike I see, is it yours?

I have an FZ6 also that is about to go street fighter and probably get dipped black.

Cool set! Love the CO2, are they the same as the ones for BB guns? Is it easy to get replacement plugs? Does it work well?

I currently have this set.
http://www.amazon.com/Blackjack-BLJKT340-Repair-Handles-Screwdriver/dp/B0083IAO5M
I love the handles on it, makes it so much more comfortable on the hands when pluging tires. The other guy in the shop with a kit took his home because he preferred using mine.

The wrap started black, too, but the paint really deepened the color.

Wrap

Paint

The wheels are both 16"x3.5" (Roland Sands Diesel), and the Coker tires are 16"x5.1". That's why the front tire looks so much "fatter" than stock. So far they've got just under 1000 miles on them. Street performance is great, and the ride is super comfortable. It took a little while to get used to turning, though; the wheels resist the turn a bit more than stock at first, but once you get started they really want to keep going.

Here's my reddit post from when I finished her last year, if you want to know more.

I have these on my RGS and love them. Super strong, lock teeth at both joints and the ball on the back of the mirror is super stiff. Lmk if you want better pics.

https://imgur.com/Abmfp1D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5D16AI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_qPZjxb21NSS0Y

Edit: fixed link

Take this for what its worth...YMMV....

The Aquatic radio you plan on installing comes with a built-in 288 watt amp, so it can power better speakers than those cheap-ass Alpines. And I can atest to my "cheap-ass" comment as I purchased a set of Alpines back last year and they barely sounded louder than factory speakers and were no where near clearer...and then I added in a 300 watt amp and they couldnt handle any juice to them.

Spend some money and get better quality speakers that can actually utilize the amp in the radio you are installing. For a little more money, you can add Kicker 40CS54, 5.25", $54.95 that can be pushed fairly well with a 200 watt amp.

Or, you can get in the wallet a bit and get a pair of [Infinity Reference 6500CX, 6.50" $84.83] (https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-6500CX-component-loudspeaker/dp/B007SNMQDQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1499830265&sr=1-1&keywords=infinity+speakers) and a pair of 5.25-6.50 adapters and make a considerable difference.

And if you want to go whole hog and get a lot of bang for the buck, you can get deeper in your wallet and get you a pair of [Focal 165CA1 6.5", $179.99] (https://www.amazon.com/Focal-Coaxial-Speakers-Davidson-Speaker/dp/B00J8Y33IK/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499831535&sr=1-14&keywords=focal+6.5%22+speakers).

Honestly, it all really depends on how much you are willing to spend...but if you are willing to spend $54 for the Alpines, then you shouldnt have any problem going a few $$$ more and getting a better sounding/power handling speaker such as the Infinitys...they will SMOKE those Alpines, trust me!<br /> <br /> In my Ultra right now, I have the factory radio, 2 old Sony 3-ways in the batwing and Pioneer 6.5" 3-ways in the tour pack pods...no amp...and I cruise on the highway at 80mph and can hear my tunes. I put the 6.5" Kickers with a 300 watt amp in my old 01 Electra Glide with four (4) 1" tweeters and it screamed hauling ass down the highway @ 80mph as well. I have a pair of Infinity reference 6.75" speakers to install once I get a set of adapters...but test fitting them, the sound quality was exceptional for the price i paid....

Either way, good luck with it...

If I had to do it again I would. It is heavy AF, and awkward to get home. (As far as I know they will only help you get it into a pickup truck. Heavy end forward of course, but that makes it really hard to unload by yourself) As others have mentioned, the front chock should probably be replaced with something beefier, (I used this) and it doesn't spin worth a shit. The ramp does come off easily but it obviously does take up a motorcycle's worth of space in the garage.

But other than that, its fluffy white clouds. If you couple it with one of these you will be ready for anything. I threw a couple extra C clamps on it for additional mobile tie downs, useful if you want to raise the front or the back wheel.

Not sure the years, but any EFI sportster tank. 2010 and up should be safe. The hole should be on the left side of the bottom of the tank if the tank is sitting normally. Carbed tanks have their hole on the right.

Something like this should work:

http://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-EFI-Sportster-Tank/dp/B00JDPVJG2

If you want official, the part number for a 3.3 gallon off of a 2015 '883 is 61348-07, but they're 500 just primed.

Go here: http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/

And click on the parts micro fiche. They don't have '16 48s there yet, but you should be able to use 2015.

I have this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S and I'm happy with it. If you go with it buy a 7/8 deep socket and leave it on the stand for easy adjustments

Seconded (thirded?). I bought a can of high heat paint off amazon for a rebuild that I ended up letting a buddy use on his Sporty's pipes. disassemble the whole shebang and tape over the ends, paint it on a nice day, let it totally dry. This stuff goes on almost like primer so it didn't need much prep work either.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248903-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375303554&sr=1-3&keywords=grill+spray+paint

I used a GoPro Hero 7 black's time warp feature at 30x speed. I put a portable charger (link below) in my windshield bag and fed the cable under my tank up to the GoPro attached to my helmet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012NIQG5E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Get him one of those bandanas which are made out of that alien fabric which helps cool him off if he gets hot during the trip] (https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Athletecare-103105-P-Enduracool-Bandana/dp/B00XP3EZ8W)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMUMNPI/ref=pe_344980_30548220_email_1p_4_ti

I was thinking of getting this set, there faux so I might just buy the more expensive set that is $250. The faux ones are on Ebat for $159 b/o as well, and the real leather ones are $259 for the set, I wish I could see them or knew someone that has the faux ones to see how they hold up.

I bought this a couple of months ago for a rear shock swap on my Road Glide and it worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196PAZ1S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

To add to this suggestion, this paint works well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4AKC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_alFVCbDETHETK

The lifts an Orion, $65 they sell on amazon 1000lb weight limit

OrionMotorTech Dilated Scissor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0AB7MJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Edit: add link

Amazon. This is the exact kind I used.