(Part 2) Best products from r/Hunting

Buy yourself a decent bolt action .22 or a shotgun, a good 3-5" fixed blade knife, a blaze orange hat or vest, and a decent little first aid kit (don't forget a tourniquet).


Step 1: Take a hunters safety/education class.

Some states have classes exclusively for adults. This will give you some basic, but good info on gun/bow safety and state laws pertaining to hunting. In addition, they should have pamphlets that will outline the different hunting seasons, game animals, invasive species, and state/federal hunting areas.

These classes might also help you meet some more experienced folks who could bring you along or offer some valuable advice.


Step 2: Learn how to use your gear.

Your ability with your gear can mean the difference between success and failure on the hunt--and in some cases life and death (especially pertaining to your med kit).

Let's start with the rifle. I like bolt action .22's. You can get a very accurate gun and learn how to use it for very little money. Using a bolt action .22 with iron sights forces the shooter to learn the fundamentals of marksmanship, building a solid foundation for the future.

I like the Savage MkII and the Ruger American.

With either rifle I'd recommend adding a peep sight and a regular 2 point sling.
Both are accurate and inexpensive rifles that you can shoot day in and day out for years.

You should be able to find a range with at least 50 yards to sight in (aka zero) your rifle. If you need guidance here, there are plenty of online resources, however, you'd do better to ask an experienced shooter for a hand. Be sure to use the same ammo for zero and hunting.

For shotguns you can't beat the versatility of a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get either gun in 12 or 20 gauge. The beauty of these two is that you are always a simple barrel change away from being able to shoot birdshot (birds small game) or slugs (everything else).

With a good .22 and a good shotgun, you should be able to hunt most wild game in North America. There are better calibers and rifles for specific hunting applications but those two will do it all.

What I don't recommend for hunting rifles/shotguns and why:

1 I don't like scopes (at first). Forcing yourself to learn on iron sights means you develop a firm foundation in the fundamentals. I remember wanting a scope for my .22 so bad, so my dad made me a deal. I had to kill 100 red squirrels or starlings and 10 groundhogs before he'd let me add a scope. It took me the better part of a summer to accomplish this but I walked away from that summer being able to put lead on just about anything within 150 yards of that little rifle.

2 I don't like autoloaders (at first). Simply because shooting a bolt gun means you have one, maybe two shots to get the job done. You learn to make ever shot count. Once you are proficient, go wild.

3 I don't like tactical/tacticool rifles for beginners or really hunting for that matter. They are usuallly auto loaders (see #2), heavier, and more expensive. You don't feel so bad taking your $230 Savage through brambles, tripping over roots and dropping it, or leaning it up against a rusty fence post. If you don't trust me, look at what the professional hunters use.

Extras: buy a quality, brass rod cleaning kit and some decent gun oil (or CLP) for deep cleans. Keep a [Bore Snake](.22 .223 .25 CAL Bore Snake Cleaner Kit Cord Rope Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKSNVTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XRfGzbN7P8Z58) in an extra pocket for the times you get dirt or debris in the barrel.


Get yourself a good knife. I always have my pocket knife (a CRKT M21-02G) and a skinner when I'm hunting.

For a pocket knife use what suits you. For a skinner I really like knives like the Schrade Old Timer 158 for general skinning and this blade from Ontario Knife.

You also need a good way to keep your knives sharp. I've had a lot of luck with the. [Lansky System](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_85fGzbBRJDH6K).


Last, please get yourself a decent med kit. Too many people have died in the woods due to a knife accident or gun accident that could have been easily treated.

You can easily make yourself a basic kit or buy one like [this](Ever Ready First Aid Meditac Tactical Trauma IFAK Kit with Trauma Pack Quickclot and Israeli Bandage in Molle Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAAMS2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iagGzb76NGQZJ) pre-made.

This kit has everything you need except for a tourniquet like [this](Tourniquet - (Black) Recon Medical Gen 3 Mil-Spec Kevlar Metal Windlass Aluminum Lightweight First Aid Tactical Swat Medic Pre-Hospital Life Saving Hemorrhage Control Registration Card (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETMVQOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fcgGzbSAMKAWS) and an Israeli Bandage like [this](Ever Ready Bandage Battle Dressing First Aid Compression Bandage, 6 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DPVERM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1cgGzb9C9H5WP).

You can learn to use all this stuff over the course of an hour via YouTube. You would do better to find a nurse, paramedic, or Navy Corpsman to give you a crash course in the use of the contents of your IFAK. If you can find a Corpsman, they are probably the best for this kind of thing. Lots of good tips and tricks for field use...plus you can pay them in beer.

Don't forget to add extras like any medication you might need, chapstick, Bayer aspirin (good for headaches and heart attacks), a little tube of antibacterial ointment, and a couple fabric bandages.

If you won't carry this on your person, keep it in your vehicle.

For good practice I like squirrel and rabbit hunting. Makes you consider a lot about safety, a lot about taking only the good shots, plus they are easy to clean and good to eat.


Last learn how to use what you kill.

If you are hunting varmits, that is one thing. I shoot invasive species (when legal), and varmits that are causing a nuisance and that is reason enough for me.

If you are hunting anything else for exclusively for sport, please use it. You can use some of the books referenced earlier to learn about skinning and field dressing. I like to watch shows like Meat Eater, to learn better ways to use the meat I've harvested. Once you get into cooking game meat, you will wonder why you ever went to the store for meat.

Just don't forget that hunting is about stewardship and learning. It's a lifelong pursuit that is very rewarding.

Always be safe, always be ethical, always be responsible, always have fun.

Edit: If you ever find yourself in south central or southwest Michigan, I can help you with anything I've outlined above. I'm a lifelong hunter, a lifelong shooter, a small arms instructor in the military, a certified combat lifesaver, and a decent game cook.

ill weigh in here too. i strongly recommend doing it yourself, if for no other reason, the sense of accomplishment. it got me into hunting even more when i was able to see the meat from field to plate, the whole way.

there are many levels you can butcher on... you can sub out as much as you want. you can get a grinder, or you can send it out to someone to do the burger. you can do your own sausage too if you have a grinder...

for me, if it is warm, ill do it that same day. if it isnt, i do it when convenient. honestly, ive tried aging it, and i cant taste one iota of difference... so i do it the easiest way i can. if i let it hang for more than a day, i make sure i pull out the tenderloins immediately.

tools you will need....
a good knife... preferably 2 so you can have someone help you. i like one with a gut hook, but its not the end of the world if you dont have one. youll want a small pocket sharpener, which you should probably have anyways... if you use a gut hook get one that can sharpen a gut hook. im a fan of this one

a gambrel. you can get by with ratchet straps, but a gambrel is way easier. i like one with a 4:1 lift ratio, but 2:1 is fine too. this is the one i have


a sawzall to cut off the head and legs are nice, but at our cabin we regularly forget to bring ours, and a regular hand saw actually works better in a lot of ways.

trash bags to store your meat in... at least 4. one for backstraps, one for front quarters, one for burger meat, one(or 2) for rear quarters.

so that will get you quartered. deer skinned, backstraps out, 4 legs(quarters) removed, and burger meat cleaned off of the rest of it.

at that point i generally get the meat into a cooler and get some ice onto it so i can quit for the day... in a day or 2 ill bring it all inside and debone it. for that, youll need a good fillet knife(i actually use a fishing fillet knife), and a big cutting board. again, i prefer 2 of both so i can have help. id rather do 2 deer with someone else, than 1 deer by myself. then all youll need is a vacuum sealer and bags.

there are a ton of different techniques out there. there is a learning curve. if you can have someone teach you that would help massively. but even if you do, watch tons of videos. especially for deboning. youll find your own technique that you like best.

youll also realize how much of the deer goes to waste. in the beginning you are going to want to try to save every tiny morsel of meat... after a couple deer youll realize what you have to let go. and that is different for everyone. some people cut the meat/fat from between the ribs... some people let that go... some people cut off the ribs and make them like beef ribs. some people turn the neck into a roast... some people cut what meat they can off of it, and put it in a roast.

some people are ok with tons of deer fat and connective tissue in their burger... some people want clean meat in it. some people cut all their hind quarter meat into steaks, some people keep everything as roasts.


edit:
this video shows the way i quarter the deer. except it takes me 10x as long, haha. follow up to the 10 minute mark. im not a fan of his deboning technique. i am, but i prefer to do it on the table, not hanging, and i prefer to clean all the outer silver skin off of it before i separate the muscle groups. and he also leaves a biiig chunk of burger meat on the lower leg bone.

Man has been hunting without 'baiting' deer for a millennia.

Tried and true tactics for those who don't throw out a pile of bait for young stupid deer to feast on:

• Heavy producing Beech and Oak ridges
  
  
• Most fruit woods, but especially apple trees
  
  
• The edge of AG fields, especially corn and soybean
  
  
• Primary Scrape Areas - anywhere you find multiple scrapes within a relatively short distance. It can be as few as 2-3 scrapes within 10-15 yards, or 5-6 in a 60 yards stretch.
  
  
• Licking branches with accompanying scrapes
  
  
• Rub lines
  
  
• Bedding Areas
  
  
• Well worn game trails
  
  
  In my experience you will never see mature deer at a bait pile during regular hunting hours. Especially in pressured states like MI. The mature deer will scent you and will simply visit your bait pile during the midnight hours.
  
  Also, if you are really wanting to challenge yourself I suggest reading a few of John and Chris Eberhardt's books. They are a father and son team of hunters from Michigan who only hunt public land and permission-given private land. They rarely bait, and instead rely on heavy scouting and a scent control regime to pattern and profile their deer. They also offer plenty of practical advice for hunting on a budget and in situations where you can't or wont use bait, or are hunting property adjacent to a hunter who does bait. I highly recommend reading them if you live in a heavy hunting pressure state like Michigan.
  
  Bowhunting Pressured Whitetails
  
  Bowhunting Whitetails the Eberhart Way
  
  Precision Bowhunting - A year Round Approach to Taking Mature Whitetails
  
  While these books focus heavily on bowhunting the tactics and advice can be applied to any season.
  

Meat Eater by Steven Rinella is a wonderful book about his life as a hunter.
American Buffalo is another book from Rinella that not only tells of the hunt but contains a great history lesson.

I also like Surefire EP3 Sonic Defender. 24dB reduction with "blocking" of sound above 85dB (works best for sharp sounds). Very comfortable once you are able to find the right fit. Ear canal width will be determined by EP3 Sonic Defenders (narrow ear canal) or EP4 Sonic Defenders (standard ear canal); both modes also denote sizes but that is for earlobe cavity (concha bowl) dimensions (most people are medium). Test out your ear canal with cheap disposable earplugs unless you have been told by doctor that you have a narrow ear canal.

https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Diamondback-4-12x40-Dead-Hold/dp/B001EC7KMY

Here you go bud. I like that it goes up to 12 power since you may get longer shots in MT. Vortex offers great value and a killer warranty. I normally get a commission from Amazon, but I'm not supposed to post those links here. Please check out my website when you get a chance.

Anything by Steven Rinella. (Meat Eater, Scavenger's Guide to haute Cuisine, American Buffalo and The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 1: Big Game (Volume 2 Small Game comes out soon). I've read them all.

A sand county almanac is really good too by Aldo Leopold..

If you like humor, anything by Bill Heavy.

And for Shitter material, you can't beat this collection of short stories.

Assuming pretty short distances and the need to acquire your reticle and target quickly, have you considered a red dot instead of a traditional magnified optic? They're quicker than anything out there - no irons to line up or anything - just put the dot on the thing and pull the trigger and it's down. Something like this would work nicely - https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Crossfire-Red-Sight/dp/B07YDN9364?th=1

Can't really get better value for your money then with the Whiskey3. $110 and super solid optics

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https://www.amazon.com/Sig-Sauer-Standard-Quadplex-Riflescope/dp/B015GB47E2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538580910&sr=8-2&keywords=whiskey3

Watched this the other night and truly enjoyed it. Check it out if ya got Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Trapper-Jake-Korell/dp/B01CH39O3Q

you can almost never go wrong with a Labrador!! A couple folk that hunt have dogs they rescued, just trained them to be family/retrievers and the dog picks up on it.

i used the books Wolter's puts out

http://www.amazon.com/Gun-Dog-Revolutionary-Training-Method/dp/0525245499

just put in the time and you will have a good dog

We don't have seed ticks in my neck of the woods, just wood and deer ticks, but Permethrin is the best tick repellent I've ever come across. I treated my clothes this spring before turkey season and never found a single tick on me after sitting in the woods for 3 days.

My buddy came out to hunt with me one afternoon in untreated clothes and after sitting for about an hour he pulled at least a half dozen ticks off of himself.

How about this spotting scope? Found it on amazon with good reviews. Just want to buy one for my kids to spotting animals when camping, but I'm not familiar with the products. Thanks.

[Water Dog by Richard Wolters.] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0525247343/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0525245499&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0TH73C8M3M3RQ65VVYW2) This book has been around since the 60s. It's easy to follow and it worked well for my dog. It does not have any of the more advanced techniques but it will certainly get you started.

How about this spotting scope? It only needs $55. It features 20x to 60x magnification and 60mm objective lens, BAK-4 Porro prism. Great for bird and weather watching.

Thank you for continuing to be the living embodiment of the 'Ackchyally' neckbeard meme. Do try to pull your head from deep inside your cavernous asshole and maybe look up 'linguistics.' I would be surprised if even one percent of the people on /r/Hunting did not know that a Buffalo is Bison bison. Being that is what the animal is commonly named in American English. You must be endlessly entertaining at parties in the off chance anyone has ever invited you to one, as you must treat the word 'insufferable' as a badge of motherfucking honor.

We generally call them buffalo in this country.

Fucking Oxford has a peer reviewed article that says in the first line " It is generally cited that 60 million North American bison (Bison bison), commonly known as buffalo, existed in the Great Plains until the early 1870s (Lott 2002). "

The New York Zoological Society has a paper called "Social behavior of the American buffalo (Bison bison bison) ."

The Great Plains Quarterly, Journal of Mammalogy, Western Historical Quarterly, Journal of California Anthropology, Mississippi Valley Historical Review, Indiana Quarterly Magazine of History, Montana Magazine of Western History, Science News, Conservation and Society, Central States Archaeological Journal, The Journal of Wildlife Management, North Carolina Historical Review, Southwest Historical Quarterly, Archaeology, International Journal of Historical Archaeology, Arizona and the West, Pacific Northwest Quarterly, The Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography.

Fucking Science, one of the most highly respected journals published. Scientific American. All of them are trash, since they are 'deficient' by your standards. There are peer-reviewed, scholarly articles in here that refer to them as Buffalo. I'd get with JSTOR, where a five minute search turned these up and tell them to de-list all of them.

https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/buffalo Definition 1.1 "The North American Bison." The Oxford English Dictionary knows that a Buffalo is a Bison.

If you still haven't gotten the point there is some literature at your reading level I think you might enjoy: https://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-Back-Jean-Craighead-George/dp/0525422153/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Buffalo-Back-Jean-Craighead-George. The age range is 5-8, but I think you'll be OK.

Maybe to be in your world we should only speak in binomial nomenclature. After all, when looking at pictures of a dead Bison on the hunting subreddit, someone might become confused and start looking for a water buffalo! Or maybe any of the species in the Ictiobus genus of fish, since they are all buffalo.

Who or what damaged you so much in your life that you have to strive to be a colossal douche canoe. You seem smart enough to understand the words "vernacular name," "Linguistics," or "Etymology," but not remotely wise enough to apply any of it. You must not be wrong, it must be the millions of others without their heads up their asses who are.

Not sure how you feel about optics/what company you typically use. I'm a pretty big Vortex and Leupold guy on my big game rifles. However, I felt weird spending too much on a scope for a .22.

I ended up going with this one. Had it 4 seasons now and have brought it into some really rugged country hunting Dusky Grouse. I've dropped it, gotten it wet, basically just abused it as much as possible and it's held up. Awesome value for $50.

Vortex has great customer service and a lifetime warranty on evern their budget priced models.

https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Diamondback-4-12x40-Riflescope/dp/B001EC7KMY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538576424&sr=8-3&keywords=vortex+diamondback+4-12x40+bdc

I keep the 2 books below at my camp. They are great for people that forgot a book. Also I pick them up and reread the stories all the time. Great to take with you for a long day in the stand. I have one more anthology down there that is really big but I can't remember the name.

http://www.amazon.com/Greatest-Hunting-Stories-Ever-Told/dp/1592284825

http://www.amazon.com/Huntings-Best-Short-Stories-Sportings/dp/1556524749

Sorry about the long write up. This is a copy paste from when I posted to someone else.

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I don't know what head lamp or flash light your using but I recommend you switch over to using 18650 batteries. Batteries are a little heavier and bigger than the normal AA, but they last a lot longer and are rechargeable.

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Everything you need to switch will run you about 25 for the charger, 40-50 on the headlamp, 40-50 on the flash light. and about 30 for 4 batteries. Out the door your looking at 155 give or take.

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Also if your using the head lamp and your battery dies, you can just swap with your flash light battery.

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Link is to the head lamp I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYJJQM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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This link is to the flash light I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWW907A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Batteries I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

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https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-protective-plastic/dp/B01N9HB03A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525653&sr=8-3&keywords=18650+lg+battery&dpID=41kKYj1u54L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

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and the charger I have been using. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

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https://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525708&sr=8-1&keywords=efest+luc+v4+lcd+charger

I'm listening to his most recent book on audiobook. He is really an incredibly talented human being. https://www.amazon.com/Full-Life-Reflections-Ninety/dp/1501115642

Check out :
[Water Dog] (http://www.amazon.com/Water-Dog-Revolutionary-Training-Method/dp/0525247343) by Richard Wolters or, for other fowl,
Gun Dog by the same guy.

While I don't hunt fowl (I'd like to, no time, water, or land to go on right now) my uncle did for many years and used those books to produce very well trained dogs. The g/f and I have a golden/chesapeake bay retreiver mix that's about six months old. We've been doing basic training with out of Water Dog and it's worked well so far. I'd reccomend them to anyone with a breed that has the particular behavioral inclinations of a pointer or retriever.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HV2J7Y/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&btkr=1

This one is bar none my favorite. All these guys do is hunt public land in Michigan too, so it is very relatable for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking-ebook/dp/B00Q1IFKOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499783919&sr=8-1&keywords=the+complete+guide+to+hunting+butchering+and+cooking+wild+game

This one is really good too, more aimed towards beginners though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ANQVYU/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00

• deet around ankles / waist / neckline
  
  I'd suggest getting the above stuff first, if you think it's OK and works for you -- you can order the chemical yourself and dilute it yourself.

I highly recommend his book: http://www.amazon.com/American-Buffalo-Search-Lost-Icon/dp/0385521693

This is how I was introduced to him.

Call your wma to confirm their carcass disposal rules (that you can leave the bones, etc) and you should be good. Likely won’t find a cleaning facility though.

I definitely prefer quartering a hog into the cooler before leaving rather than loading the whole carcass into the truck.

If you are hunting solo then I would suggest a cheap pulley gambrel or trying out a gutless approach where you split the skin down the spine. Fair warning though, the gutless method works well for a quick cleaning but can be a little awkward on the rear quarters.

Sawyer Products SP657 Premium Permethrin Clothing Insect Repellent Trigger Spray, 24-Ounce (Spray Bottle Color May Vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ANQVYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hVJwxb260YPE8

http://www.amazon.com/American-Buffalo-Search-Lost-Icon/dp/0385521693/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Scavengers-Guide-Haute-Cuisine-Rinella/dp/B001Q9E9L0/ref=pd_sim_b_1