(Part 2) Best products from r/Jeep

Buy a pair of Hella 7" Headlamps (ECE), and this.

The lamp housings are european code (ECE or E-code). Technically not DOT legal in the US-- but is your inspection station going to inspect your headlamp housings?) These have a sharp cutoff so they won't blind other drivers. I've been running them for years and I love them. The pattern is far superior to DOT lamps-- it tends to really throw the light forward from the bulbs.

The wire loom from ARB is made of a much thicker gauge wire than the wires that are currently driving your headlights. The same bulbs will run brighter with this wire loom upgrade, but I found that if you add new housings (with nice clean clear glass and a good light projection pattern), and a pair of high-quality H4 bulbs, your headlights will work with the power of a thousand suns.

For bulbs, I'm currently running Sylvania SilverStars, but in the past I found out about IPF Fatboy II 80W/60W bulbs. The low-beam is actually higher than the high-beam wattage. Not sure why or how that makes sense, but these are a seriously great upgrade. Be warned, they run very hot and are susceptible to vibration damage (moreso than other standard 55w bulbs). Don't expect these bulbs to last more than a year or two. They're intense, though.

Hope that helps, because that's what I did to my Jeep. I also added a pair of Hella driving-pattern auxiliary lights on my stinger and a pair of 4" Delta fog lights on my front bumper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036MOQAE/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

currently unavailable but the speaker is literally a perfect fit and I think you can acquire it elsewhere. It just took twenty minutes of dremell work and some creative use of a deodorant cap and JBweld to reseal the chamber.

It is a strong little bastard (about the same as stock but still sounds magnificent at really high volume) I blew the stock speaker three times before changing it out and since have been able to play music twice as loud.

as for the amp (my stock unit still powers my sound pods) I bought a waterproof marine amp, amiright, for $40 at an audio store.

as for installation some guy has a video of the same install on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7yd-MbNpyI

all the best

I believe the 5000 lb. number is when you have the aux. Transmission cooler and a weight distributing hitch. You shouldn't need a weight distributing hitch when only towing 1700 lbs, but it sounds like you need a cooler for sure.

I'm not familiar with the KK at all, but when I did the install on my ZJ, I didn't need do take the radiator or condensor our like someone else commented about. I did take off the bumper and grill though. I just spliced into the rubber transmission lines with double barbed brass fittings with 2 fuel injector clamps on both ends, and ran new 3/8" high temp trans line in front of the radiator and mounted the cooler to the supports behind the grill. The fuel injector clamps are important, because the dont cut into the rubber lines linke the traditional screw type hose clamps.

Another thing you need to think about is if you want to isolate your aux. cooler from the in-radiator cooler you already have. Most factory Aux. cooler setups are plumbed in-line with the in-radiator cooler. I just completely took the in radiator cooler out of the equation and got an oversized cooler. It a lot easier to not have mess with the fittings on the radiator, since they always seem to be a pain and usually require special tools. It will make your engine run a tick cooler as well. Some people think that you need the in radiator cooler to "warm up" the transmission fluid in the winter, but I've had mine separated for years and I've driven in temperatures as cold as -17*. It took longer until it would shift into overdrive, but that seemed to be the only issue. I'm also not sure it actually warms the fluid up any faster because on initial cold start up the thermostat is closed, so the coolant in the radiator isn't circulating around the engine, so that coolant is just as cold as everything else.

By isolating the aux. cooler, you can also avoid the dreaded "strawberry milkshake", where the radiator cracks/leaks internally and your transmission fluid and coolant mix and gets pumped through the transmission creating a pink frothy goop, that will probably take out your transmission. Thats super rare, but it does happen, Xterras were known for that problem.

Probably becuase there's so much exposed wire. Those terminals and wires should be upgraded like yesterday. Not trying to sound like a dick, but the charging system is one of the most important parts of any vehicle and it needs good tight connections. And a small amount of dielectric grease wouldnt hurt

Get a system like this. Or if you can just buy the terminals and get the crimp rings elsewhere, either way it's a worthwhile upgrade and much cleaner

The KC lights, or the headlights + fog?


The 3 KC lights are the Rugged Ridge Light Bar:
(https://www.extremeterrain.com/rugged-ridge-light-bar-black-jk-112322.html?utm_content=XT%20Lights%20-%20Light%20Mounts%20and%20Brackets%7CRugged%20Ridge&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var3=yellow&T5_Var4=J13080&intl=0&utm_campaign=XTW+Wrangler+Brands+Low&gclid=CMnnxcSg0NkCFUPRswodljsEXw&gclsrc=ds)

And then a set of 2 KC Apollo driving lights: (KC HiLiTES 151 Apollo Pro 6" 100w Driving Light System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006V7TBBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_htQMAbYAB8V49)

For for third light, KC sells an 'add on' harness; buy an additional single KC light, and then the harness (http://www.kchilites.com/add-on-wiring-harness-kc-6316.html)

After all that I went to napa and bought a spool of black plastic wiring loom to make everything look nice.

If you've never done ANY wiring before it may be a challenge, but there's infinite YouTube videos out there to help you. The switch is on the left side of the steering wheel above the lower speaker. I can get a picture of the location if you want.

Also, use my links for the part number and search all over eBay and different websites to save some money too.


The headlights are just cheap Amazon ones that are working astonishingly well for being $110. Foglights are the same thing, xprite Amazon ones for cheap. Those you have to remove the front bumper for which was a bit of a pain.

Hope this helps!

Nice work!

Looks like that mount could support a pretty hefty tarheel/screwdriver type antenna. Any reason you chose to to make a hinge mount over using a bracket that bolts to the spare tire carrier? Like this

Mine is the Barricade roof rack from extremeterrain.com and it has a basket on it from Amazon. The roof rack is very good. I go to Moab like 20 times a year and this thing has been so awesome. It looks cool (I have had people stop me on the street to ask where I got it) and it's super tough and adds a ton of storage to the TJ. I installed mine alone in about 3 hours. It's a good purchase.

Some pics of the rack in use:
http://imgur.com/a/CCzVr

http://www.extremeterrain.com/barricade-roof-rack-black-tj-j100172.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HEBN1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Go the easy route and order some Kickers off Amazon. $60 for the set, plug and play, and sound great. Kicker Speakers

I just put on the Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit. It'd be perfect for what you're wanting.

https://www.amazon.com/Teraflex-1155200-FRONT-LEVELING-SWAYBAR/dp/B007CISU6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550174024&sr=8-2&keywords=teraflex+leveling+kit+jeep+jk

If you didn't put on new wheels with the 33s you may consider that as well to increase the backspacing. wheel spacers would also work

Thank you! The lights are pretty cheap off of Amazon, here’s a link: 2PACK 7" LED Offroad Pod Lights Bar 51W with Mounting Bracket, Black Round Spot Bumper Driving Lamp Headlight Fog Light for Offroader, Truck, Car, ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCXDZ4H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_NWwP3yEh73wze


As for gears, I’m still doing research on what I want, but want to strike a balance for decent crawling but this is also my daily so needs to be somewhat freeway friendly. Probably why I haven’t done it yet, gearing is a deep rabbit hole!

I have the same Apex roof rack/basket. Its pretty awesome and covers most of the roof.

I’m using a Rugged Ridge antenna mount and a 2ft Firestik antenna on a medium spring. I would prefer 3ft, but I had the 2ft from my last vehicle and wanted to reuse. Like the setup on that.

I have a medium-ish sized CB radio, which is just too big to go anywhere in the cab. I would recommend going with the Cobra 75 radio that a lot of Jeepers use. Not easily stolen, doesn’t take up room.

I have the perfect thing for you. It's called a Steelie Nite-Ize. It's a magnet that mounts to your phone, and to anywhere you want on your dashboard. The magnet is insanely strong and I've never felt like my iPhone would fall off.

https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Steelie-Cellphones-Magnetic/dp/B00BAQKRHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467908671&sr=8-1&keywords=steely+nite+ize

This is the model: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXS3BXI

I love it. It was easy to install and it's easy to operate. I haven't had to use it in the few weeks since I've had it... I'll let you know if I have a failure.

I'm no expert, but I have this one https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-97495-XRC-Winch-Capacity/dp/B00JXS3BXI.

I love it. Hook up was a breeze and I've used it once and it worked like a dream. I bought mine from Amazon and had no problem. You could always opt for the synthetic line on the Smittybilt one too.

Hi-Lift makes adjustable mounts that work well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CEFJ2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these to mount mine to my tire carrier (AEV Hardrock carrier) and they work great.

Cibie lamps and some quality LEDs. It was the first thing I upgraded on my LJ. The jw speaker and truck lite LEDs are single units, which I didn’t like.

This route, your lamp stays consistent, and you can swap out the bulb when needed easily.

Some Evapo-rust would help https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66 There's a youtube channel that restores stuff like this too. I think I saw it posted on here once sorta recently.

The trick I've found with this (and any rusty bolt really) is to use PBlaster and to tap the top of the bolt not just down, but to the sides as well. Sprays some blaster, tap a bunch, spray some more, tap a bunch more. Works consistently well.

If you want a stock look, the Cibie headlights another user posted are the bee's knees. These remain among my favorite headlights, and I've driven a pretty wide variety of cars. Most people recommend Hella brand headlights because they're more widely available. Having used both, Hellas are absolute trash in comparison. Hellas beam pattern sucks, period.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQV88Q

Those reflectors, a drop in headlight relay harness, and some high wattage bulbs will turn night into day.

I just put these in mine and they are night and day better than stock:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're plug and play so no extra wiring or anything of that nature.

These are the pair I picked up. I’m going to run them for a couple of days and see how well I/on coming traffic like them.

LX-LIGHT 7'' Round Black Cree LED Headlight High Low Beam for Jeep Wrangler JK TJ LJ CJ Hummber H1 H2 (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B376YOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LLy1AbQ1CKTCB

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These ones https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L6YA2XS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title and these to prevent flicker https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUAD4KE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

They work way better than the KC lights that I bought it with.

1. Unless you have actual projector housings, they are illegal in all 50 states.
   
   
2. Brighter is not better. The cheap crap you get on ebay throws light in every direction. Having a bright pool of light directly in front of you works against your night vision and makes it harder to see things in the distance. Road signs will also be dazzlingly bright.
   
   
3. You will need a headlight bypass harness to prevent flicker and feedback
   
   Products to consider:
   
   HID
   
   

• HIDprojectors.com conversion kit
  
  LED
  
  
• GE Nighthawk
  
• Truck-Lite 27270C
  
• JW Speaker 8700
  
  
  H4 Halogen Conversion
  
  
• Rampage H4 housing
  
• Sylvania Silverstar 55W bulbs

Thanks! The lights are KC apollo pro 6" lights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006V7TBBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-RDWCb5577YHR

They are mounted to these A-pillar mounts from reaper offroad: https://reaperoffroad.com/products/accessories/2007-18-jeep-wrangler-front-windshield-pod-mounts.html#172=54

Yep. All of you were right. Battery was toast. Replaced today and spliced in new terminals. Started right up.

Fastronix Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QDp0Cb43K2W1C

Amazon is loaded with them; for example - these are $90 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B376YOE/ref=psdc_318323011_t2_B07HPGMZ6N and I have seen lights as lows as $60 and much much higher. Just make sure they either have an anti flicker built in or if you need to order them separately. Either way nice jeep!

These JEEP WRANGLER JK KICKER SPEAKER UPGRADE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OQwBwb56MGN5T they are plug and play with no need for an adapter.

I'd spend the extra $100 and take my chances on a SmittyBilt

I purchased these ones after someone else on this sub recommended them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B376YOE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524147376&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lx+cree+headlight&psc=1

They do make a huge difference, but I only drove for a few seconds last night to test the alignment (still gotta fix that today.)

LX-LIGHT 7'' Round Black Cree LED Headlight

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E

I have the same 2015 unlimited sport and the speakers were pretty bad.

I have this amp mounted under the driver dash to the left of the brake pedal. There is a little cross bar. I fabricated a bracket out of an old steel computer case and some rivets.

4x of the Kicker 77KICK10. Those are a direct fit part and improve the quality by far even without the amp

4x of these 3.5" speakers to replace the stock paper crap.

After replacing all of these, this sounds great for me. I also have a 10" sub that runs off the same amp in the back that I can remove at any time when I choose to take my hard top off. I just googled some Jeep speaker replacement and managed to do it all myself.

This is plenty loud so that if I had the top off and going down the highway I would have no problem hearing anything, no crackling or distortion. let me know if you have any particular questions