(Part 2) Best products from r/Leathercraft

I started out with dog collars so a few specific things you will want. If you don't want to buy a leather strap cutter, you can make due with a framing square, adjustable T square, or just a long ruler, its a measure 10x scenario but its not too bad. You will want a really sharp knife for cutting, I use my skiving knife because I can sharpen it, but I have used exacto knives and a rotary cutter and done a decent job with them.

You will want punches! Hole punches are obvious for the holes the buckle will use, but even the ends of the strap a punch can save you a lot of time and effort. Doing curved cuts is trickier than it seems and when there is a matching side to emphasize imperfections and stitching to further complicate things, being able to just use a punch and have it right the first time is fantastic.

As for hardware, get Welded D rings. They are a little more expensive but I'd rather not have a Dring bend and a dog get loose. Like $14 on amazon for 50 of them. I used these buckles was the cheapest I could find that style.

Pricking irons/Diamond Chisels are a must have, they just make the long runs on collars so much easier. That and a good thread and needles. I tried crap thread and tiger thread...I now buy only tiger thread. Its just so much easier to work with and looks a lot better.

here is one of the ones I did for my girlfriends dog
https://imgur.com/a/2y23Rdr


Post I made earlier for someone else, I would invest in:

• diamond awl like this
  
• diamond chisel(only really need the 2 prong and 5-6 prong) I use these
  
• good braided poly thread like this
  
• good needles John James
  
• Good skiving knife this ones a good starter
  
• Wing dividers I bought these
  
• Edge beveler Like this
  
• You'll also want a leather condition(neatsfoot oil is what I use) and a finisher(resolene, beeswax, snoseal, etc)
  
• Contact cement(Dap weldwood) helps keep things together before you sew them
  
• Dye if you want certain colors
  
  For ~$100 bucks investment and you've got most of the stuff you'll need to make good looking stuff, then you just need to buy leather. I highly recommend picking a project, watching some videos on it and then if you need a new tool for it thats when you buy it. My biggest mistake thus far is thinking I could bypass buying a hole punch, the quality using a punch is so much higher than trying to do it by hand.
  
  As for skills. Look up Saddle stitching, easy to learn and hard to master. With those chisels it makes it really easy to get a good looking product with saddle stitching. Wetforming leather, helps make those sheaths, holsters, etc pop out at you. I like watching Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on youtube, informative and you pick up little tips here and there.
  
  You'll also need to learn to keep your knife sharp! So project 1 if you invest is make a strop and get some jewlers rouge to polish that edge to a razor! If you're REALLY in a pinch and have no leather you can use the rouge on cardboard but it does not hold up well.

Here's my starting out basics list:

Must have:

A cutting mat - I have this Cutting Mat which has both standard and metric measurements, very handy for watch straps which are in mm

Ruler - Something like this you probably want cork-backed metal for non-slip and to protect the leather surface, size is up to you

Cutting Tool - I recommend both a very sharp knife like a Stanley utility knife which you probably already own, plus a Rotary Cutter - way more useful than you realize. This is a deep rabbit hole, there are a huge selection of fantastic cutting tools out there, I would say if you get serious this should be an early upgrade but for getting started, a rotary + detail knife is a good start

Wing Divider - Marking patterns, stitch lines, a million other uses, something like this

Fastening - if you're stitching, you need waxed thread and blunt tip needles, as well as an awl (this is one tool that is not worth cheaping out on, get a Barry King and be done with it) and a set of pricking irons, generally a 6-prong (or so) for long straight runs, and a 2-prong for corners. I'm not recommending a specific brand here because the price range is large, and I think there are a lot of newer players making good quality products. I started with Seiwa chisels and they served me well until I upgraded to Muxi Irons, will probably go KS blade punch at some point.

Alternately you can use rivets and a rivet setter (make sure the sizes match); either way you'll want contact cement as well, barge or weldwood are good choices from any hardware store

Helpful items:

Wax paper - you can use it to get nice straight lines with your contact cement

Stitching Pony - I did without one for the first few months but it's a lifesaver, this would be an early priority if you're stitching things

Thread nippers - cheap and convenient These

Skife/Skiver/Skiving knife - Used to thin the edges of pieces and reduce bulk/combine more seamlessly This or This

Isopropyl alcohol - used for cleaning surfaces and diluting dye, if you choose to dye your pieces

Other stuff:

Edges - Edge finishing is whole art in itself, there are different techniques depending on preference and the type of leather used, and accordingly will require different tools. If you're going for the rustic look, you can leave your edges unfinished. Where I live in Portland, lots of people actually prefer that look, but to each their own. Veg tan is most often finished by burnishing the edges, with involves sanding until completely smooth, then wetting with water or gum tragacanth, and rubbing briskly with something smooth, generally a wood burnisher, followed by some wax and another burnish with something like canvas to seal the edge. Chrome tanned leather is generally finished with edge paint or by rolling the edge over so there is no exposed edge.

Dying - If you're using fiebings, MAKE SURE you get the "professional oil dye" line, the standard line bleeds color like crazy. It's an alcohol-based dye so you can dilute with isopropyl/rubbing alc and you can also combine colors without issue to create your own. Two coats gives a nice deep color, and once it's dry buff it with a dry cotton rag to get off any excess. I use pieces of 2" foam to apply it, those tiny daubers don't do much for larger pieces. Also get some nitrile gloves, you'll thank me later.

Beyond that, you start getting into lots and lots of specialty tools, which you'll be able to identify when you get there for specific application. But hopefully this helps and gives you a basic rundown.

---

Section 1: Tools

---

Note: Just because it is more expensive doesn't mean it is better. You could get by just fine with the "cheaper" options.

---
| Tool | Required vs. Optional | Use | Notes | Price & Link |
|:---|:---:|:---|:---|:---:|:---:|
| Tandy Wholesale Membership | O | Allows you to get better pricing at Tandy. | This is definitely optional. Items will cost slightly more without it OR if you have a tax ID you can get the membership with better pricing for free. | $35 / Free|
| Awl Haft | R | The handle which will hold your blade. | This particular haft allows for different blades to be added or removed with ease. | $16 / $35|
| Diamond Awl Blade| R | This is the blade used for piercing the holes in your projects.| This goes in the awl haft.| $4.80 / $28
| Channel Groover | R | Used to measure and gouge channels where your thread will lay. | Some say gouging a channel is optional however I find it to be required. It further protects your thread from damage. | $16 / $80 |
| Overstitch Wheel | R | Marks where you will punch your holes. | This particular overstitch wheel is a few dollars more than the versions that only offer one wheel. | $24 / $225 |
| Edge Beveler | R | Used to bevel and round off the edges of your project prior to burnishing. | Sizes vary. The smaller the number, the smaller the round edge. | $12 / $55 |
| Adhesive Glue | O | Used to hold your pieces of leather together prior to piercing the holes. | Some people prefer binder clips instead of glue. I've found that the clips end up making marks on my projects so I've always stuck with glue. | $6 / $30 |
| Gum Tragacanth | R | Used as a burnishing agent for your edges.| Some people use saddle soap. I prefer gum trag.| $6.40 / $21|
| Harness Needles | R | Used in combination with the thread for your projects. | Avoid the stitching needles. They break very easily.| $5.99 / $7.50 |
| Xacto Blade | R | Used for cutting projects. | You may have one of these at home already. Be ready to have replacement blades handy ($21.95) | $2.49 / $50 |
| Self-Healing Cutting Mat | R | Used for cutting your leather projects.| You may have one of these at home already. If so, you can obviously use that.| $14.73 / $50.80 |
| Cork-backed Ruler| R | Used for cutting straight lines.| I highly recommend the cork-backed version. It will save from accidental cuts/slips.| $4.80 / $14 |
| Burnishing Tool | R | Used in combination with the gum tragacanth to get a good burnish.| A good piece of canvas can be used as well. | $8.99 / $80 + $99|
| Sanding Tool| O | Used to sand down the edges prior to burnishing.| You might have sandpaper at home. Feel free to use that too.| $7.30 / $0 with dremel|
| Steel Square | O | Used for creating nice, even squares/rectangles for projects. | Learn to use this correctly!| $8 / $14|
| Thread Cutters | O | Use these for cutting your thread in the hard to reach places without running the risk of damaging your project. | Scissors work for cutting thread and the xacto blade can work for cutting thread inside your projects -- just be careful! | $3.95 / $39 |
| Maul | O | Used for end punches, rivets, snaps, chisels, or irons. | You really only need one of these if you are planning on doing any of the activities mentioned previously. | $20 / $55 |
| Pricking Iron/Chisel | O | Use these to mark or punch your holes instead of an overstitch wheel and awl. I prefer using the overstitch wheel and awl but others like the irons/chisels. | There is a big difference between irons vs. chisels, diamond vs. lacing. They all produce different results. Definitely ask before purchasing! The ones I linked are very different.| $12 / $259|
| Creaser | O | Used for decorative creases on things like card slots. | Definitely optional and definitely personal preference. | $14.40 / $72 |
| Wax | O | Used for burnishing. Gives the edges a nice seal. | The $10 is my top secret wax I use. I bought a bunch on sale for $5 and it is fantastic. | $4 / $10|

---

Here's the mini arbor press that I use from amazon ($65):
http://www.amazon.com/Bald-Eagle-BE1001-Arbor-Press/dp/B006SBC3I2

I just started leathercrafting a month ago and had neighbor problems immediately -- we're in a small apartment so space is also an issue. The ram doesn't have a hole in the bottom but it works fine for me just using my hand to hold the chisels up. My chisels are only 4-5 inches high, which is fine for the 6" height adjustable ram. The height adjusting screw that came with it was very loose, so I replaced it a spare nut and bolt. I also attached some cardboard and scrap leather to the platform on the bottom to protect the irons. It's been working great for me, and I'm really happy with how my stitches are turning out after just a few weeks. I haven't tried punching through really thick pieces yet, but I'm not sure I'll need it since I'm not a fan of the rustic thick look.

Scwleung: The wallet is beautiful and I love the European/Asian luxe style -- I've been super inspired by your projects, especially given the relatively short time you've been doing leathercraft.

First I'll list what I bought and then I'll discuss what I have or what I'd have done differently.

Not listed are an xacto blade/utility knife, cork-backed ruler, and steel square. These were purchased at Harbor Freight.

Awl Haft

Diamond Awl Blade

The awl haft and diamond blade (E42) are great. I like the combo I bought. The handle has a chuck instead of some I saw which need the blade pressed in to the chuck.

Channel Groover

The channel groover I bought is nice. The chuck, similar to the awl haft, is very convenient for quick adjustments.

Overstitch Wheel

Doing it again, I probably would have bought some diamond chisels over the overstitch wheel, but so far it's worked alright. I will be buying the chisels eventually.

Edge Beveling Kit

I had no idea what edge beveler to buy with so many sizes and never having touched leather, so I'm really happy with the one I bought. It comes with 5 sizes.

Harness Needles

I bought 3 sizes of harness needles. Probably overkill but they were $3 a pack and I didn't know what size I needed. I've been using the medium ones and they are working well with the thread I got.

Cutting Mat

The cutting mat is nice. It's a bit thicker than the ones I found locally at Michaels.

Lacing Pony

The lacing pony is probably my biggest regret that I was forced to buy. I don't have access to any woodworking tools so I was stuck purchasing one. I should have had a coworker do it for me in his shop at 1/5 of the cost. It comes in two pieces and the holes in mine didn't line up at all. I ended up having to drill a hole for the screw.

Art of Hand Sewing

The book comes highly recommended from everyone. I've flipped through it but I learned my basic technique from youtube videos. As I try to do more I'm sure I'll reference it.

Thread

I bought .035" waxed cord from Maine Thread. I have nothing to compare it to but it seems to work okay.

Leather

And finally the leather. I'm still not sure if I made the right purchase, although buying a shoulder of leather seems to be a popular beginner suggestion. Already I'd like to have more variety, but I think I'm going to a Tandy Leather this weekend so maybe I'll pick up some other random stuff.

Things I didn't buy that I should have:

Contact Cement

Gum Trag

Burnishing Tool

Hammer/Maul

Leather finish


I actually made a decent stitch I was happy with on my second try. I didn't buy these items because I planned on doing lots of practice on scraps but because I feel good about my initial work I'd like to try to make something. Without those few items I'm kinda stuck for the moment.

I’ve been slowly chipping away at this bench all summer and trying to figure out exactly how I want it set up, but I finally feel like I’m where I want it to be. In a couple weeks I’ll put together a layout/cut out table next to it covered in HDPE. If anyone is interested, I used [2x4basics 90164 Custom Work Bench and Shelving Storage System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8vsoDbPMPZ0B9](this setup on Amazon) to put the bench together. I highly recommend it and I know a few people do as well on this sub. Makes it easy breezy.

I probably got $100 in lumber into it as well, but I opted for a nicely finished piece of plywood for the top. I can’t imagine I have more than $175 -$200 into the whole thing.

Anyway I’m super happy about it.

Sorry for the late reply!

Leathercrafting is easier to get into than it looks. It's just like taking pieces of paper and stapling them together, except you are using leather and stitches.

I think the best way to start out is to make something simple and cut out as many unnecessary steps as possible (for example buy pre-dyed leather rather than trying to dye it yourself). Later on, you can start identifying features you want to add (e.g. rounded corners, beveled & burnished edges, etc.) and purchase more equipment as needed.

If you wanted to create a simple cardholder that looks like this, here's way you could do that:

1. Cut leather rectangles -- two 101 x 71 mm + one 101 x 60 mm.
   
   
2. Glue any parts that will stay together (I really like Barge Contact Cement or this water-based adhesive). This means gluing the two 101 x 71 pieces together completely and gluing the edges of the 101 x 60 piece to one side. You can use Q-tips to neatly apply glue along edges.
   
   
3. Use something like a wing divider or edge creaser to draw a straight line along the edge to be stitched. In this case, it would be a rectangle (see red lines in this image).
   
   
4. Use a pricking iron to poke holes along the line.
   
   
5. Saddle stitch your item.
   
   That's it! Optionally you can look into beveling and burnishing your item.
   
   If you are in the US, I'd recommend picking up a small panel of leather from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. You can just get a sqft (9" x 16"). I used 3 oz (1.2 mm) thick Buttero leather in the cardholder above.
   
   Then you need some thread and needles. If you want a more rugged, traditional look, Ritza "tiger" thread works great. For small goods, I'd use the thinnest available (0.6 mm for small spools). Size 4 John James needles are perfect for this. An alternative to the "tiger" thread is waxed linen thread (my preference).
   
   Good pricking irons can be expensive, but you can probably start out with some cheap ones on Amazon. There are a few common options. These include diamond-shaped ones and french styled ones.
   
   As you get better, you will want to start experimenting with rounded corners, burnishing edges, etc. There are a lot of great resources on this subreddit. If you have any particular questions about what I do or what tools I use, feel free to message me or email me at info@gn-leather.com!
   
   P.S. Armitage Leather has a great tutorial for making wallets.

Hello, Everyone. I am looking for help to fix my Bible.

I just got a Bible and the gold lettering on the spine was way off center, so much off center that I decided to look up how to remove the lettering. I learned that I could use rubbing alcohol to remove it and that's what I did, but it took the dye off the leather as well resulting in a less than flattering look. After it took the dye off of one part of the spine, I tried to remove more for the sake of consistency and it just turned out a disaster before I stopped and decided to look for help.

​

Here is a picture of the damage I have done:

https://imgur.com/a/KxrL3zo

​

Here is some information that you can hopefully use to better help me: The Bible's cover is made of "Ironed Calfskin." The cover's color is black. When I was rubbing it, the dye that came off seemed to have a somewhat thick consistency. Before coming here I looked at products, but was overwhelmed. Here is one product I found called "Fiebing's Leather Dye":

​

https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-50-2046-BU-P-Leather-Dye/dp/B00XOXGUM2

​

But it says it's "For use on vegetable tanned or unfinished leather." I am not sure if my Bible is "vegetable tanned" or not. I also read about oil based and alcohol based dyes and don't know which is best.

​

If someone could point me in the direction of a good, high-quality dye and whatever I need to apply I would be super appreciative. This Bible is not just a show Bible to put on my bookshelf, but it is one I'll carry with me often and I'll place it on my lap to read, so if you don't mind I would like the dye to be as durable as possible so it does not easily rub off on my dresses or anything like that.

​

Thanks-a-million!

And I'm saying you don't need chisels at all. But that's crazy talk right?

That book I linked, and the making cases series, is the single best purchase I've ever made when it comes to leatherwork, bar none.

But you want specifics, right?

• Diamond awl haft - Barry King or other Osborne brand, I like the rounded back versions
  
• Diamand awl blade - Douglas used to make the best, but are harder to find, and Barry King is always out of stock. Osborne's are pretty good too, but will require a bit of sharpening.
  
• Groover
  
• Overstitcher size 6 is pretty universal, other sizes have different spacing to determine spi.
  
• John James Harness Needles
  
• Barbours Linen Thread, 6 cord Right/left twist doesn't matter for hand sewing. One spool could last a dedicated hobbyist at least a decade.
  
• Beeswax
  
• Contact Cement, pick up the Thinner too and add some whenever the glue starts to get a little thick.
  
• Craftmaster Pro Stitching horse is probably one of the better ones to hit the market recently.

Absolutely. First I start by gluing the edges I want to stitch with contact cement, this helps keep the leather from stretching or sliding around when making a groove for the stitches.

Then, once the glue has dried, I will sand the edges to get them close to even. This allows me to get an even groove for the stitches to be laid into when I use my grooving tool. The grooving tool has a guide that runs along the edge of the leather, so having even edges for grooving both sides of the leather ensures that when you pierce it with the diamond awl the hole goes through both grooves.

Next, I use an overstitch wheel along the groove I just made to mark off where I will be pushing my diamond awl through. When using the diamond awl I make sure that the wide edge is parallel to the groove.

Then I go to town saddle stitching carefully, making sure that after I push the first needle through, the second needle always goes under the first thread and never punctures the first thread as it is going through the hole. it also makes life easier if you pull back on the first thread when pushing the second needle through.

I've read somewhere that people tamp their stitches down after they're done. I did that on my last project and I wasn't happy with how the thread flattened out, so I didn't do it on this one.

Sorry if that's too detailed, I hope it helps :D

Edit: Sorry I forgot to mention that consistently tightening each stitch is EXTREMELY important. Inconsistent tightening can result in some stitches looking smaller or larger or deeper than others. I made this mistake on my first project and have been very conscious about improving on it going forward. I still think I have some room for improvement but this is a hell of a lot better than the first wallet I made for my girlfriend.

I love to tool, but wow is it hard. Pick up some of the Al Stohlman books on tooling. They are great.

Thanks!

hmm the lines around the circle by the star? I used a wing divider to get a nice circle and used super sheen for the light spots. The circle's 'outline' pops out because I used some hi-lite dye and that stuff makes any scratch get super dark.

I like to draw, but I bought a few books when I started and did some direct tracing for practice. I feel like planning out a carving is different from drawing, and having some reference to trace helped me figure out some of the ins and outs.

I'd say $50 may be a little pricey- maybe get one or two books to start and go from there?

Maybe western style isn't what you're into, but I can speak for the Al Stohlman books. How to carve leather has lots of patterns (flora AND fauna), great advice, tools used for each carving, and it's only $12 on amazon.

Has anyone tried this hot foil stamping machine?

https://smile.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stamping-Pressure-Base-Plate-Embossing/dp/B07H97H9RQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=WM8CR6L5NFUG&keywords=hot+foil+stamping+machine&qid=1570395741&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=hot+foil%2Carts-crafts%2C182&sr=1-4

It seems to have pretty good reviews, and I'm trying to find a solution I can learn with without spending a few hundred more bucks. I know that I'll just end up replacing it at some point to get something better, but... is it decent enough quality for a first machine?

Or, alternatively, does anyone have recommendation for buying a used machine, or something to get started with?

Looks really sharp!

For burnishing, I've gotten lazy and bought a dremel attachment and I think the big slot on here should fit a 3/8" slab of leather?

I use a mix of Bees Wax and Gum Trag and then run over the edges, back and forth a few times to moosh the fibers together and smooth the edge.

As others have said though - anything that can provide a little bit of friction will work. It's easier if you wet the edge with something, and I think water will even work in a pinch.

Linked product note: I'm not shilling for amazon, or any specific product - just linking items that I've bought as examples :)

Congrats on the leatherworking! I'm almost done with my last 7/8oz side. I didn't think it'd be this fun :)

I've been happy with this kit, though half of it I'll never use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5LBV5M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upgrades I have made since and would advise doing immediately or very soon:

Chisels (I would get a 10-prong too for bags) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALZ5M3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A better scratch awl (mine got bent while piled in with other tools)

Better threads

Needles

An organizer box

90-degree angle

Circle template

I bought these and they are WELL worth the price. Great quality, and have stayed super sharp after hundreds of uses. I've found 4mm spacing is a good middle-of-the-road spacing - perfectly fine for most things, but a bit too wide for really small projects.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016C7RLJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice work!

To piggy back on /u/Zhaust, I use this wing divider. Super cheap and strong -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMKLKZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Barge cement is good for flexibility.

I'm going to agree with getting a new strap, but check out the kits they make on Fabnik. I bought the Stitch kit and it's really very nice. And you get to make it yourself, so it's even more of a sense of accomplishment.

Sure, some of the general shops that comes to mind:

• schmedt24.de
  
  
• dictum.com
  
  
• lederhaus.de
  
  
• ds-leder.de
  
  
• Deco cuir
  
  
• Cuir textile crea
  
  
• Mando
  
  
• leatherhouse.eu
  
  For learning I would advise to look for Valerie Michael book and this one https://www.amazon.fr/Art-techniques-cuir-harnachement-maroquinerie/dp/2851011383
  
  Good luck!

> https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/copy-of-fil-au-chinois-lin-cable-waxed-linen-thread-size-632

How does the needle sizing work? Would you suggest size 0? I'm used to medical needles where the smaller the gauge the thicker the needle.
Would a 3 prong punch and single be enough?

What are the wing dividers used for?

Is this a decent skiving knife? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FP7BQ82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_12?smid=A3UVIPLX0HCKB&psc=1

Is the leather glue I posted good or should I use something like this? https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/dyes-glue/products/water-based-leather-glue-glue-spreader-really-strong-and-dries-clear

What do you use to make plastic templates?

Hi!
I just started leatherworking too. I bought this Fiskars rotary cutter from Michaels and I'm quite happy with it. Makes extremely clean cuts with not a lot of effort.
There is a cheaper variant on Amazon.

What mm of thread punch should I purchase for small wallets? I was looking at these, but will they be small enough? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGQ2RLF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4VzoDbVZ4JK00

I want to make something like this: https://youtu.be/FSWEnPI_Mwc

I agree about the proedgeburnishers. They come off centered a lot. I got them replaced, but they're still off, the groove isn't deep enough, widths are wider than they advertise, and the bit is just too big. It makes it unstable for a Dremel.

If you find an decent priced one, let me know!

I actually ended up buying this onethis one off Amazon. It's a bit off center too, but it's grooves and size are much nicer. I ended up being to fiddle with the placement and get it to be mostly centered.

Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGQ2RLF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FhHhDb8DAS59M

Those are not bad at all for $11. Especially since your just starting out you dont need to blow out the bank on them

Also, a rotary cutting wheel would help in making good cuts on soft and supple leathers.

https://amzn.com/B000B7M8WU

Here's one I found. I have this one, and like it.

They're HD injection molded plastic legs that allow you to make your own bench any size you like-- best $70 I've ever spent on a bench.