(Part 2) Best products from r/M1Rifles

I'm in the same boat - mine arrives today from CMP - so I've been doing the same as you.

I got this book from Amazon, and it's proven to be a good resource for me while I've been waiting for my rifle.

One thing you'll need for sure is grease to lubricate all the rotating parts. After doing a bit of research, I arrived at this grease off Amazon.

You'll of course need ammo and enbloc clips. CMP is also the best/cheapest source of both of those, so add that to your order for the bayonet.

Finally this website is another good resource.

Enjoy your rifle!!

Any stripper clip thats made for the 7/8mm Mauser, 30-06 will work. If you want good ones, get the 6.5 Swede clips. They are the smoothest by far. These are what I carry extra ammo with for 308 and 30-06:

https://www.amazon.com/STRIPPER-SWEDISH-MAUSER-Northridge-International/dp/B01J6SIKMG

Don't forget to get the bolt disassembly tool. WAY easier with this https://www.amazon.com/M-1-Carbine-Bolt-Disassembly-Tool/dp/B076VWK8LB

This book is good for getting all the info you'll need on how to not kill yourself and figure out what you'll need. No loading data really, get a lyman's manual for that. This is more of a beginner's guide. http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418410032&sr=8-1&keywords=the+abc%27s+of+reloading&pebp=1418410025785

The foam will retain moisture, especially if it gets rained on. I have stored guns cased, though, with the addition of dessicant packs and oiling the guns before extended storage.

Check and dry the packs occasionally. I used these (at least, those looks the same as mine; I've had mine for probably 15 years), though I'm not sure if there's anything really stand-out about them. I think you may be able to use a silicon stock instead, dunno.

I pour some CLP or similar on a lint-free rag, wipe down each part, and re-assemble the gun with the thin layer of oil. I do this even in my safe with it's dehumidifier, just in case. Not that it keeps the receiver on my 11-87 from rusting, but everything else is fine. :p

This stuff?
Obenauf's Leather Oil Condition Restore Dry Leather (16oz With Applicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAW57E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rOz4CbWBSMAD0

You sure it is oil and not synthetic grease?

And motor is fine for all but the most extreme circumstances.

It's a Voodoo tactical cheek riser from Amazon. Don't tell anyone I bought it there...

Here's the link!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B007FTAS8S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Amazon has it.
Auson Genuine Pine Tar - 1 Lt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6DNVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HsdyDbKTZYNJE

If you want, contact sparx on CMP forums. He's a professional woodworker who does a lot of fitting on CMP/Boyd stocks. You may already know, but you'll need to strip the stock as it's finished with some Minwax sealer. You can send this to sparx and he will do this for you if you don't want to.

Side note, if you want that arsenal red color, use raw linseed oil. I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Foods-Flax-Seed-Ounces/dp/B000MGOX82/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1482269449&sr=8-3&keywords=now+foods+flax+oil

You can find this a lot cheaper on Amazon. The tape isn't sticky on other things, it clings to itself. So it shouldn't leave any residue.

Cheapest I've found so far is $19 on Amazon.

DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL!!! Even 0000 can scratch the finish. Use brass as the brass is softer than the steel and won't scratch the finish.

Brass Wool- Skein Pad Wad (Fine Grade, 100 Gr.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTGGGIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHKTCbAMH0TY6

If you don't want to run a plug in dehumidifier, try a renewable style like these from Eva Air. Just keep an eye on the beads and when they change color, plug in the dehumidifier and it'll dry the beads out.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y9ROT0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I should mention that regardless of what brand of scope mount you attach, you will need a punch set. Also, be very careful with the punches (remove and repunch after each stroke so the punch doesn't get stuck, and be careful of breaks). I think I broke two punches and had a third get stuck during the install. I forget which size punch you will need, I think 3/32 or 5/32, but don't hold me to that.

I use this kit from Otis for cleaning the bore: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C52A5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It uses a flexible cable that you can use to pull brushes and patches through the bore, only from chamber to crown. The cable is plastic coated and should do no damage.

It takes me a lot of work to get clean patches unless I first use a larger brush to clean the chamber before cleaning the bore. To clean the chamber, I use the .38 brush from the Otis kit attached to the Pro-Shot Flexible Chamber Cleaning Tool, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008P8F13U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this tool, you can work the cleaner-soaked brush into the chamber while rotating a few turns. This really speeds things up, and I do not need to worry about stuck cases from a dirty chamber.

Here is a video from Ruger on cleaning the Mini 14, so you can see the technique they recommend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ_XSF47s9s

(They make no mention of using a chamber brush.)