(Part 2) Best products from r/MPSelectMiniOwners

I too am new to 3D printing with the MP Select Mini v2 being my entry into the process. I have yet to make the bed reroute changes that everyone seems to keep suggesting, but that is next on my list now. I have done 2 things I think have made easy and "relatively" cheap improvements.

1. Added glass to the print surface. As many people have commented both there and in this Sub the build surface can warp and/or comes warped. Glass can help resolve this and add to ease of leveling your bed. Additionally I find it much easier to get the prints off cleanly from the glass without issues getting the print to stick while printing. I do use a glue stick, which is cheap and easy to apply and remove. There are a few written guides as well as videos on how to cut/prepare the glass. I was a bit worried before diving in, but it was wayyyyy easier than I had expected. I purchased this glass cutter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4W6NMG and a replacement 8.5x11 glass for a frame $1.80 from a craft store. I was able to get 2 build plates out of this if only barely. Using some butterfly clamps to hold it to my build plate. Now that I have the tools and know how if my 2 glass plates break I am only out $2 and can create 2 more with another $2 rather than risking damage to the actual build plate.
   
   
   
2. Octoprint (https://octoprint.org). The functional benefits may be argued, but I really enjoy it. I already had a Raspberry Pi 2, so I didn't need to purchase anything, although I did buy a WiFi adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HTNO52) for it and a webcam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FHO5Y6). This gives me the ability to monitor my prints from wherever and make sweet time lapse videos to make all my friends jealous with ex: https://imgur.com/8FANLEr. You can also use Octoprint as a server for uploading and managing your prints, rather than dragging your SD card between computer and printer. It also means you don't have to have a computer connected to the printer if you didn't want to go the SD route. There are also cool plugins that you can play with added for additional benefit. I added Pushbullet (https://github.com/OctoPrint/OctoPrint-Pushbullet) and configured it to send me hourly updates on the print, time left and image from webcam.
   
   
   Personally I got a 3D printer to get into some of these more one off type projects, so it was well worth it IMO.

There are lots of options, but for just getting started I suggest:

Hatchbox PLA 3D 1.75 mm. This particular one is black, but get the color(s) that suit your fancy!

I suggest this one because:

• PLA is easy and forgiving to print with and doesn't cause crazy fumes. (Still print in ventelated area though). If this is your first experience with 3D printing - stick with PLA for at least a spool or two!
  
• Hatchback hasn't given me issues yet. Good quality.
  
• Price is Right
  
• 1.75mm fits the standard nozzle the printer comes with.
  
• Hatchback was my first - so I'm irrationally attached to them
  
  There are dozens of brands of PLA and most of them will work just fine. Feel free to experiment. I use $20/kg as my standard "this is an OK price" limit for standard PLA
  
  Be more mindful when switching material types. PLA is forgiving, but hates heat/sun. Its also not overly strong. ABS is apparently strong, but a pain to print on these monoprice printers (requires high temps) and the fumes are toxic. Wood was fun - until it clogged my nozzle. Apparently you need a larger nozzle to print wood without clogging frequently. Whoops!
  
  Anyways, when getting new filament:
  
  
• Get a different color/brand because it's fun or it fits your needs. Variety is the spice of printing!
  
• Get a different material type (PLA/ABS/Nylon/etc) when your print requires a different type of material. Research the material requirements first to make sure your printer and setup can handle it (heat/ventilation requirements).
  
  
  Side note: store your filament is a dry place. 3D material tends to absorb water from overly humid air. When the filament does this, it doesn't print as well. I keep mine in air tight storage containers with one of these Renewable Dehumidifiers

I've had great luck with AIO Robotics PLA sold on Amazon for around $13 per 0.5 kg. The other PLA brands I've purchased work, but the prints aren't as smooth. I believe it's because the tolerance is better on the AIO Robotics PLA (+/- 0.02 mm). The 3D MARS PLA I bought that doesn't print as smoothly has a wider tolerance of +/- 0.05 mm.

Also, I bought a E3D Full clone hotend on Amazon that is way better than the stock hotend (that often clogged on me).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD8LCFO

And here's the mount you'll need to print for it (there are others that are probably better, but this works for me):

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1728736

Yes the fan A header on the board is software controlled and not really suitable for being used to cool the v6 unless you leave it at always 100%. Wire it to your part fan and you will be fine. Alternatively, if you're lucky and your fan B header works and you can just plug into that instead. I shorted out my fan A header and had to go with wiring in two of these for my cooling needs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N30UK2M

[Hatchbox PLA] (https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-PLA-1KG1-75-BLK-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00J0ECR5I&pd_rd_r=Q8MR8GV7GD834TEFE79Y&pd_rd_w=rLlmq&pd_rd_wg=VRhs7&psc=1&refRID=Q8MR8GV7GD834TEFE79Y) may seem a bit obvious, but to newcomers they might not know what kind of filament to get. Hatchbox has some quality stuff! I have had exceptional luck with the black.


I would also recommend the Raspberry Pi Zero W for use with octoprint. Here is a [kit with everything you need] (https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Wireless-Starter-Official/dp/B06XJQV162/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498744224&sr=8-2&keywords=raspberry+pi+zero+w+kit) from Canakit on Amazon ($35) as well as the [original] (https://www.adafruit.com/product/3400) from the Adafruit store ($10). Note that the original comes with nothing but the Pi, so you will need your own accessories (i.e. Micro Usb OTG plug, mini HDMI to HDMI adapter, micro usb charger, etc)

I did not have problems with the wire. I don't think that is highly common. Sounds like a good diagnosis, though. Good luck with the patch.

I think more commonly that fan just fails. Mine started making a bad bearing noise. I replaced it with an affordable cooling fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZFUOD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A lot of folks use this fan:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VXTANZ4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00VXTANZ4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f0dedbe2-13c8-4136-a746-4398ed93cf0f&pd_rd_wg=CVYkS&pf_rd_r=6ZSVCBAHQ2P1A1N6V571&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=agQig&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=29f953be-eb8a-11e8-bd66-f7675945ae46

I did the same thing while changing a nozzle. I ordered https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01N4KY6TR and it was a perfect replacement for my v2. Pretty easy to replace too, just involves some unscrewing of the casing and running the new wire to plug it in (no soldering required).

https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Creality-Ender-3-Printer-Printing/dp/B07DGV2L8Z/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ender+3&psr=PDAY&qid=1563224422&s=prime-day&smid=A1KWJVS57NX03I&sr=1-3

​

169.99 right now, I just bought one a week ago when the exact printer was on Woot. All Ender 3s come out of the same factory and the team that does the QC is the difference. SainSmart has done a great job putting a great manual in the package, all the tools you need. Lots of spares and I did not have the out of square issues you hear a lot about on an Ender 3. From my earlier research this seems to be the case with SainSmart they have a great QC team it shows once you have the device. The build surface is not as nice as the Creality one or if in the US Comgrow from Amazon. I have not opened mine to look at the board yet but a few people have mentioned getting the newest creality board in theirs which you can load vanilla marlin on or just load the creality firmware.

Edit deal expired.

You should use the continuity tester of any multimeter to check the wires before replacing them. You can connect one lead to where the heated bed wire plugs into the motherboard, and the second to where the other end of that wire is on the heated bed. Do that to check all four wires while jiggling them around to check for internal breaks.


If all four wires going to the heated bed are well connected you probably have a bad thermistor. This is that little black thing mounted to the center of the heated bed that measures the temperature of the bed. You can connect an ohmmeter to either side of the little black thing to see if it gives the correct amount of resistance (in the neighborhood of 100k ohms)


I had to replace mine, you just need any 100k ohm glass bead thermistor, it doesnt even have to be the same exact type as the one on the board. I used this one:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4KY6TR


it has leads and a plug that i plugged directly into the motherboard and just taped it to the bottom of the heated bed with kapton tape and works perfectly.

Good luck!

any time. btw this is the card i bought, after someone here recommended it. So far its worked flawlessy for me, when other perfectly good cards i already owned do NOT work with the printer at all.....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HCGAFK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using this stuff for quite a while.

https://www.amazon.com/Scor-Pal-Scor-Tape-Sheets-6-Inch-5-Pack/dp/B003SMPXOK/

I've never read of anyone else using it. It sticks like a motherf***er, but getting it off the bed can be a bit of a chore. But, I like it. I can't deal with hairspray (chemicals get to me), and glue sticks never worked for me at all. Tape never worked for me either.

I've been getting good results with PETG and this stuff, and using a decent size raft around the print.

Thank you so much!

As for the hot end, if i just wanted to replace the 30mm fan with a Noctua 40mm fan using this, and i didn't want to splice wires, which ones of these two fans should i get? This one (5V) or this one?

i've had this problem many times.

its almost certainly that your wires are making intermittent contact. i've had to replace my bed sensor wiring and power wiring about 4 times.

once however my actual temp sensor cracked in half and i had to replace it with a 100k thermistor.

https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-Printer/dp/B018QL5LPI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397650&sr=8-4&keywords=100k+thermistor
here are the thermistors and as for the wiring, if thats what it turns out to be(most likely is)

sensor wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01708AYYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG1TRL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also recommend using https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397789&sr=8-5&keywords=wago+connector

for the wiring inside the unit, so that your wiring can be replaced easily without buying a new wiring harness.

No major strain on the fan, it just lowers the voltage, not perfect but probably not going to set a fire pulling .3a. I use them on my RC cars for LEDs and stuff. This is the one I have used many times on different projects. It takes 12v and lowers it to either 6v or 5v, up to 3a. I had it at 6v first, but I could feel blowback so lowered it to 5v. Works perfect and is whisper quiet.

No cant be used as a speed controller. It's constant output. If you want to adjust speed, you want a PWM like this. That will allow you to adjust the speed. The good thing about PWMs are they dont lower voltage, they lower the pulse width.

While you can still do it, I recommend printing a replacement extruder (filament feeder ontop).

It let's you put a high quality Bowden tube connector on top. The one there will fail you because it was a very cheap cost saving part and breaks in a couple of months.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756509

You need to buy new bowden connectors off your favorite store. On Amazon, these are what I bought:

Witbot PC4-M6 Straight Fitting... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NANKRTD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You will also needs some nuts. I had some on hand, so I don't have a link for that.

When the stock one breaks, you cant print the replacement. Under warranty, you will just be mailing it back and they send you another.

Yeah I don't know what you are seeing for 20 or 30. I got this on Amazon for like 6 bucks and it feels really sturdy.

Rather than solder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPS8DPM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Works wonderfully for my hotend replacement.

Not sure if I was lucky or if it is an old image but these I purchased off Amazon actually had the white connectors already attached which plug directly into Mini's board.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4KY6TR

Just removed the old one entirely and replaced it with one of these. Splicing anywhere along the area that travels up and down as well as left and right is going to wear the spice after time. If you do have to splice or solder any of these wires make sure the point of the splice is somewhere inside the Mini's structure and not with the Bowden tube so there is no constant flex on it.

RepRap Champion Metal J-Head V6 Hot End for RepRap 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament Bowden Extruder 0.4mm Nozzle Kossel Mini Prusa i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GD8LCFO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I’ve only had my printer a short time too (I think it is is 8 or 9 days old).

Tricky question since it depends on a few factors. Since this is for the Mini, I would go with 130mm x 130mm via Amazon;

https://www.amazon.com/130mm-5-125-Borosilicate-Polished-Printer/dp/B01LX3CS6Y/

I would also recommend the following clips to hold the glass down on the sides;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN98F0/

Coat the glass with Kapton tape, and you should be all set;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXN0IXS/

Have I spent all your allowance yet? ;-)

1st layer I print at 25mm/s. Slow is better for the first layer even if it takes forever.

I have 6 MP Minis in my printing lab. On every sing one I've switched to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Y8B6LF/ PEI sheets. They are like magic. All of the advantages of of a glass bed none of the drawbacks.

While the one I linked claim they are for the mini they are a bit small. I've had all misses with larger print beds but with the mini it's like printing on glass with no adhesives required.

I can't seem to find a 12V Noctua 40mm fan. Will this 5V one from amazon work? and will it require any soldering?

Edit: Found a 12V Noctua

Honestly, that's sort of my biggest hangup. I don't even own a soldering iron, and if I get one, I'll need to practice on junk electronics before I try to do something I can use. I do have a bunch of these though.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=lp_16347583011_1_1?srs=16347583011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499343102&sr=8-1

I bought one that works fine. The only problem is that the lock didn't work and it just sat in the MPSM micro SD card slot. It would eventually work itself out. I eventually went to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-Memory-Extension-Adapter-Extender/dp/B071N9PGGF/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=Micro+sd+extender&qid=1557174101&s=electronics&sr=1-11 It doesn't lock just like the other style but is short and may fit your needs.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HCGAFK/

That’s the one I have used successfully with my minis. I’ve never had success with an sdhc card

I use hatchbox and have for years. Works really well.


https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00J0ECR5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523922179&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hatchbox+pla+1.75&dpPl=1&dpID=51Xo-t5eC2L&ref=plSrch

I bought this card and it worked after copying the files from the other original SD card.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HCGAFK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Witbot PC4-M6 Straight Fitting 4mm thread M6 Connector for 3D Printer (Pack of 10 pcs ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NANKRTD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I’m telling you get a 2 gig micro from amazon and it will work so much better. This is the one I got.

Sandisk microSD 2GB memory card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HCGAFK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Use this card, I had the same issues as you and this one works

SECTION | CONTENT

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Title | Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer Beginner's Guide (Part 1) - Unboxing
Description | Follow along with my written guide here: http://www.thetylergibson.com/3d-printing-for-the-absolute-beginner-monoprice-select-mini-2/ Available from Monoprice directly for $199 + 15-20 dollars shipping http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15365&AID=11064683&PID=4485850 From Amazon.com for $219 https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478830476&sr=8-1&keywords=mp+select+mini+3d+printer Or from Jet.com for $187 after TRIPLE15 coupon https://jet.com/product/MP-Select-Mini-3D-Printer/6aacb19912cd471b9a4bfa697da6cc24 ------- Owner's Manual link: http://downloads.monoprice.com/files/manuals/15365_Manual_160415.pdf ------- HATCHBOX PLA Filament - https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-PLA-1KG1-75-BLK-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478830820&sr=8-2&keywords=hatchbox HATCHBOX ABS Filament - https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-ABS-1KG1-75-BLK-Filament -Dimensional/dp/B00J0H8EWA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1478830820&sr=8-7&keywords=hatchbox Part 2 - Updating the firmware! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHGF4q46p_M
Length | 0:06:40






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