(Part 3) Best products from r/MTB

Alright. This is gonna be really long, so feel free to only respond to certain parts or just ignore it completely.

I'm so excited because I've been looking around online at all kinds of MTB stuff for a while now and I actually feel like this is the thing I've been looking for in life to be passionate about. I can actually feel that adrenaline and those endorphins you guys talk about whenever I see a first-person video posted here, and I'm not even the one riding. I know I'm getting way ahead of myself, but I can't help but be extremely excited nonetheless.

I've watched quite a few basic to intermediate technique videos and I think I'm finally ready to give it a shot. Now I just need to decide on what kind of gear (especially the bike) to get, and that's where I definitely need your help. I'm not sure what information is helpful for this, so I'll just provide a buncha info.

My physique: Male - 20 years old - 6'3" - 175 lbs. - can competitively run a 5k - I'm more on the lean side than the muscular side.

Bike: Yeah I really have no idea what to even look for here. I saw the google doc on all the bikes and it was great to see all the options, but I haven't got a clue as to what I should get or whether or not to buy used or new. I'm definitely hoping to go on the cheaper end here as I'm just a college student (limited budget) and I'm only just now starting to ride. However, this is something I think I'd be willing to invest a solid amount of money into. Any suggestions?

Helmet: I definitely want to get a full-face helmet because I don't want to have to deal with any dental problems. I'll compromise comfort for teeth. I've read a lot of good things about this SixSixOne helmet, and it's relatively inexpensive, so I'm leaning toward that at the moment. I'd like to try it on somewhere first, and work from there. Same goes for the goggles. Although I saw a low-priced Thor pair on that same amazon page, I think I should see if they're comfortable first.

Gloves: I have no idea here. I'll probably shop around, but any starter suggestions would be much appreciated.

Any other advice about apparel such as pads or just general clothing that you like to wear while you ride would be much appreciated as well. Also, is it a good idea to get some compression shorts?

Other questions: Are there any exercises you might do specifically off the bike to help you out when you're riding? What do you bring in that backpack of yours when you go riding? What do you think is the best way to transport your bike long distances?

Also, on the off-chance that anyone knows of any good trails in the Indiana University area or the Northern Indiana/Southern Michigan area, I'd love to know about them.

Any other advice that you'd like to give would be appreciated as well.

If you've made it this far, I applaud you. Sorry for bouncing all over the place, and thank you so much for reading all this. I'm really excited to be joining this community and can't wait to get into such a cool sport.

Gloves (make sure they fit well) , safety glasses/non-glass sunglasses of some kind are both generally recommended safety gear though imo the glasses depend on the danger in your area of taking a branch to the eye. Other stuff: Pump, tire levers, spare tube, patch kit. Something to carry your stuff, either a camelbak or seat bag, pump frame mount and bottle cage. This stuff is pretty much the absolute minimum if you aren't within easy walking distance of home/car. Bikes usually come with really shit pedals, and you'll have much more success staying on your bike if you buy pedals with sharp pins. It's a huge boost in confidence and control. Good cheap pedals: wellgo mg-1 and deity compound. You'll need flat-soled shoes to go with these, skate shoes will work OK but might want to avoid canvas vans as they don't protect your feet well. these have served me well and I can recommend them as excellent for the price of $42 on amazon.

these are pretty much the bare basics. Local bike shops offer good advice if you ask for it so esp. for a beginner it's good to buy stuff from them. At the same time, take what they say with a grain of salt, they're selling you stuff. Be honest about your beginnerness. Some bike shop employees can be snobby,don't let it get you down or scare you off but do try different shops if you ever feel looked down on, because for every snob there's someone who will be really helpful. Don't try shit on then buy online, either buy local or take your chances buying online. I guess that's about it, from one beginner-ish rider to another.

The tool sets are appealing because it looks like a one time purchase, but I suggest buying quality tools as needed. For instance, I only need a T25 torx, so buying a set doesn't make sense. I would recommend buying a high quality metric allen wrench set (these are what you'll use the most).

Also, borrow tools from friends. I'm changing my whole drive train this week. I have most of what I need already, but I don't have a chain whip. Asked around my riding friends and one is letting me borrow his. Sure I could buy one for $20, but how often am I going to use it?

Someone else mentioned it, but cable cutters are a fantastic tool if you plan on running/replacing your own cables. I nearly bruised my hand using sidecutters until I went to the LBS and bought Park's cable cutter for $25 or so. Night and day difference.

Also, a bike repair stand is great. If you don't want to shell out a ton of money, I bought this one and so far it has worked really well. Eventually, flipping your bike upside down or trying to wrench on it while it's leaning against something becomes a true pain.

I'm a cheapskate. Here is my current build out.

Shoes: I ride flats, but have gotten all my shoes lightly used on eBay. I got a pair of barely used Specialized 2f0's for $25 and a few pair of Giro's for around the same. Can't justify paying $90+ for shoes I'll wear out in a season.


Shorts/Liner Combo

I get these shorts without the liner for $25. Lightweight, cool, only complaint is I've had two pocket zippers fail on me on the three pair I have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716D347Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then wear these padded liners under them. I think going this way is better then the built in liner. Stay in position better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HKTHSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Gloves:
I get these Fox gloves...they may be knock offs as I find it weird that Fox would include a free stylus lol, but for $13 they are awesome. I have two pairs and swap out middle of rides somedays...fresh gloves are awesome lol.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEKOOKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depending on the terrain your riding, I sometimes wear kneepads.
These are light, cool, and comfy and offer moderate protection. $35

https://www.jensonusa.com/Alpinestars-Paragon-Knee-Guards-BlackYellow-X-Small?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiszt4dHk4QIVjrXACh1qOA07EAQYASABEgJGgfD_BwE


Also:

Non apparel wise, some things to keep an eye out for.

1. Aldi (yes the discount grocery store in the USA) will occasionally have bike stands in there random junk aisle...they are cheap and not great, but for $20 they can't be beat.
   
   
2. Get a simple toolkit. I have a Spindoctor one (Performance bike house brand, but a lot of people sell it rebranded). Includes most of the basic tools you will need. I think this is same one
   https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-728-Bike-Tool-Kit-Includes-Tool-Case?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItKeot9Lk4QIVR9bACh2DQwJcEAQYAiABEgLBQ_D_BwE
   
   
3. Torque Wrench if you have carbon or full suspension. Lot's of bolts need to be tighter to specific tightness.
   https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/x-tools-essential-torque-wrench-set/rp-prod155414?gs=1&sku=sku567738&pgrid=47992999650&ptaid=pla-423723653511&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%7CsEWwoGSwj_dc%7Cpcrid%7C253685278709%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C567738US&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhuS0z9Lk4QIVybbACh2mIAq6EAQYASABEgLOlPD_BwE
   
   
4. If you're running Tubeless, get some tire plugs...they are a life saver.
   
   
5. Along with tire plugs. You should always have a multitool with a chain breaker, Quicklinks, tube, tire irons, and some sort of inflation device with you on the trail just incase...nothing is worse then walking miles back to the trailhead.
   
   
6. Cleaning supplies/chain lube/ etc

I understand the "don't buy a kit" mentality that others in this thread are suggesting but sometimes it's nice just to buy everything in one go, rather than piecing things together one by one. I did some research a few years ago and ended up grabbing this Bike Hand kit ($129) We've had it since ~Dec 2015 and it has held up well so far. The tools seem to be pretty high quality and it's nice to have a box to keep everything in. The box itself is also great – heavy duty plastic exterior with a metal tray inside for organization. Hope that helps!

I wear some Pearl Izumi gloves. I think this is the new version, hard to tell since mine are a couple years old, but they look like it. https://www.amazon.com/Pearl-Izumi-Elite-Softshell-Medium/dp/B00KJGNZ9I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550415480&sr=8-4&keywords=pearl+izumi+cold+weather+gloves

I wear those from 30 down to about 5-6 degrees. When it's below 20 I have some of those chemical hand warmers that I slide in there between the top of my hand and the glove. Nice and toasty.

I have a lighter version of those for the 30-40 range. over 40 it's juts my normal summer gloves.

Alternatively you can look up bar mitts. Lots of different versions and stuff. My friends like them, they block alot of wind and can keep your hands warm. But I've never been a big fan.

I'm in the PNW. Before I lived here, I road tripped here 5 years straight, including during December. It's the wet season...

The trails will be fine and the riding will be good, especially under tree cover and you don't have to worry about snow much right on the coast. You might not see much scenery, but the trail experience will be pretty good.

The biggest issue you'll face on a riding trip is that your bike and gear will be hard to get dried out in between rides. I'd start thinking about how you are going to deal with that. If you have a way to bring 2 sets of gloves, shoes, helmet etc it will be the best way to go.

You might want to grab something like this or this.

You can't really stay dry, but you can stay warm. Think about merino wool, windproof gloves, rain shorts, rain jacket etc.

In the mountains, the snowline is typically around 2000' of elevation at the lowest. At the coast, more like 2500' or 3000'. About 3 times a year the snow will come down lower, but it's usually gone in a few days.

Personally, I would go to Tucson AZ or St. George UT in December.

1. I'd replace that plastic strip with actual tape. I'd recommend gorilla tape. Carefully apply it around the perimeter of the rim then poke a small hole for a valve stem to fit through. Leave room for the tire bead to fit around the inner wall of the rim.
   
   
2. Is your rim drilled for presta or schrader valves? If it's presta then buy a presta valve stem, or if it's drilled for schrader, then buy a schrader valve stem. Your alternative is to do "ghetto tubeless" by cutting the stem out of a tube and using that as a stem instead.
   
   
3. Get a pair of tubeless ready tires. If you are on a budget, I'd recommend these. They've never had a problem seating for me and are very good tires for the money on my 29er. If they have difficulty seating on your rim, try spraying the bead with soapy water. You must use compressed air to seat the bead.
   
   
4. Yes use sealant, I'd recommend Stan's. The bottle provides the amount recommended.

Hey everyone, due to the end of the world sale by on-one, my plans on getting a new frame might have accelerated a bit.

I bought a 2015 Cannondale F29 last December in Ohio and then moved to Seattle a few month later (wasn't expecting to). The F29 would have been all I ever needed for the Ohio trails, but the trails in Washington are a bit more exciting (I mostly ride Tiger Mountain), and I end up going over the bars fairly frequently with the 71° HTA. I have been thinking about getting a 29er all mountain hardtail, looking at the TransAm, Honzo, Big Wig, and Yelli/EPO. I haven't heard much about the Titus Fireline Evo, and wondered if it would also be a good fit.

It looks like I can transfer over most of my parts from the F29 as well, but I would appreciate if someone took a second look.

Fork: replace 100mm damper with 120mm. I have an email from Cannondale saying this is possible, even for 29er, but I can find no info on this anywhere. Definitely going to follow up before making any purchases.

F29 headtube: 134mm (for fork crown spacing)
Titus headtube: 119mm
Lefty-for-all type 1-1/8" adapter steerer tube with internal headsets required to meet stack height. 1-1/8" stem required to replace 1.5" stem.

F29 seat tube: 27.2
Titus seat tube: 31.6
Shims would be required for my gravity dropper.

Bottom bracket:
F29: BB30
Fireline: BSA 68mm
Would this bottom bracket work to use my existing cranks? Am I correct in thinking all Hollowtech II cranks and BB are cross compatible?

F29 rear axle: 10mm QR
Fireline rear axel: 135mmx10mm QR

F29 brake mount, rotor size: IS, 180mm rotor
Fireline brake mount, rotor size: Post, 160mm min
Will need adapter from IS to post mount.

If I use it, the front derailer may need a clamp on cable stop.

Did I miss anything? Kickstand compatibility? :P

I've owned a pair for a better part of a year, but eventually, the clip button thing fell out and vanished into the abyss, which I fixed and the pocket threads were unraveling. They are super lightweight, but like was said, I'm not a fan if I have anything big in the pockets.

I've worn them for roughly 25-30 rides and are very satisfied with them, especially considering the price.

I switch between those and some older Fox Shorts with the drawstring legs and flaps over the pockets. eBay is good for getting some decent shorts that were $80 for $25-30.

Edit for exact model: https://www.amazon.com/ARSUXEO-Cycling-Shorts-Mountain-Weight/dp/B074FSGBLG/ref=pd_day0_hl_468_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074FSGBLG&pd_rd_r=a31b4230-6c40-11e9-9ffd-03efec45caec&pd_rd_w=mMHnd&pd_rd_wg=tt9fd&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=YENNQ4FCPQQ5WW3FFGTA&refRID=YENNQ4FCPQQ5WW3FFGTA

I've been super happy with these cheapish pants off of amazon in any weather below about 55F. Any warmer and they are too hot. I've worn them down into the single digit fahrenheit and they are more than enough. Plus, I can easily fit knee pads over them. They aren't quite tights but are definitely not baggy either.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQDTTBC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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For UK these look pretty similar but the price goes way up. They are also some on ebay with reasonable shipping.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/4Ucycling-Windproof-L-promise-WEIGHT-140-165Lbs-HEIGHT-56-58/dp/B00POSIS0C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549378738&sr=8-3&keywords=4ucycling

for xmas i got a torque wrench set from pro bike tools. i've been using their co2 inflator for a bit and love it, and i love the torque wrench set as well. feels like a quality product, i'm very happy with it. awesome to actually use correct torque spec for stuff, i learned i was overtightening pretty much every bolt i ever touched...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKJTDWC

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someone else posted the x-tools one which comes in a very similar sort of kit for half the price. i'm not sure the pro bike tools version is 2x as good for the money, but it does have a different torque driver than the x-tools set. i know my brother bought the pro bike tool set for less than full price around the holidays, might not be worth buying unless you can snag it for a discount.

​

The short answer is: It depends.

Any rim can be sealed off at the spoke holes with rim tape if you clean it thoroughly and use the right width of tape.

The tricky part is how well the tire will seat at the bead. Stan's Rims and Spank are two rim manufacturers that I know take extra care with this area (and I think simply use a slightly larger diameter at this critical point) so that tires will seal well without much latex milk being needed to help.

You can do a simple test on the cheap. Buy the 3M equivalent of Stan's expensive rim tape like this one and buy or borrow a tubeless valve like this one. Put your existing tire on without a tube, using just a little bit of soapy water. If it pops in and inflates, you're good to go.

Maybe someone has experience with your rim type. I swear by tubeless, and so far have tried on Stan's Flow and FlowEX, Spank Spike 35 and Oozy Trail 345, and a couple of sets of made in China carbon rims, and it has always worked well.

The much bigger issue IMO is the type of tire. Schwalbe was the company that started with the "tubeless ready" slogan, which I guess involves having a little more rubber on the bead to help with sealing, Conti used to be stupidly difficult but have also improved especially with the Apex sidewall, Maxxis always worked well. These are the ones I have personally tried.

Ugh, that doesn't sound good. First things first, buy a torque wrench. It will save you many dollars down the road in broken components and facial reconstruction surgery. I recommend the CDI Torqcontrol wrench (https://www.amazon.com/Products-TorqControl-TLA28NM-Screwdriver-Magnetic/dp/B01DIRD5CG). Also available from Jenson and others.

Second, hope that your frame doesn't have integrated bearing races or you may have just trashed your frame. Hopefully the snap you heard was because you just moved the "star but" in your fork steerer, which won't cause any real damage. If it's all the way at the top of the steerer tube, you'll need to set in in further (you can do this with a bolt and a hammer, but you can also trash the star nut easily this way, so a bike shop would be a better option).

If you don't have integrated races, but it's notchy, then you'll likely just need at least one, maybe 2 new bearings. They're cartridge bearings so very easy to replace, just make sure all the spacers and wedges are in the right places. Also make sure you have enough spacers under/over the stem that there's a 2-5mm gap between the edge of the top spacer to the top of the steerer tube.

The digital torque gauge is better: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/ but does not go low enough for bicycle bolts.

Looks like https://www.amazon.com/Products-TorqControl-TLA28NM-Screwdriver-Magnetic/dp/B01DIRD5CG is pretty popular at mtbr. CDI is a subsidiary of snap on and half the price of the shimano pro torque wrench. 2-8nm

BB standards and headest standards are retarded as fuck.

Brief lesson on BBs:

• Basically, most common standard that was on most bikes is the threaded bottom bracket, with a shell width (ie the left right edge to edge distance of the hole that holds the bottom bracket) of either 68 or 73mm. 68 was common for road bikes, while 73 was common for mtb. You would get something like this, which you would thread into the hole from one side and the cup from the other, and then mount the cranks.
  
  
• Shimano then figured out that you can make the cranks stronger by having bearings wider from each other. So what they did is made a threaded bottom bracket, except the bearings would sit in the external cups. The inner diameter of the BB is 24mm, designed for the 24mm crank spindles, (known as Shimano Hollowtech2). Note that the distance from the inner edges of the cups is 73mm as the wider standard is use on most mountain bikes, and the BB comes with the spacers to make it fit a 68mm width shell for the road or smaller width bikes (some modern dirt jumpers use a 68mm shell). However, the cups themselves are about ~10mm wide.
  
  
• Then bike makers found out that you can make the system even stiffer if you make the cups go in the frame, and thus was born the concept of press fit bottom bracket. Because the cup width was integrated into the shell, the shell width grew by about 20mm (the width of the 2 cups as before). So a bike with the 68 mm shell grew to the 86-90 mm range, and the bike with the 93mm shell grew to the 92-95mm range.
  
  
• The first way of doing the press fit bottom brackets was simply pressing the bearings into the shell. This is the BB90/95 standard and is the widest because of the support structure needed for the bearing. The bearings would be pressed in and fit flush into the frame.
  
  
• The next iteration of that was to include a sealed bearing type that was placed in cups from the factory, and these cups would be press fit into the frame. The cups themselves have a small ~2mm lip on them that acts a stopper against the shell edge when you push them in, so the shell width got smaller for these bottom brackets. So the BB95 became the PF92 (which is what yours is, sometimes called BB92), and the BB90 became the PF86. The advantage of this is that the unit was a sealed type, which meant less contamination, and the cups took up the compression stresses, which means less of a chance of overpressing the bearing during installation, which would lead to a reduce bearing life.
  
  http://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/Bottom_Bracket_Standards_Reference.pdf
  
  So to answer your question, most shimano hollowtech2 crank will fit, as it is 24 mm and is the correct width for all of the above. The replacement bottom bracket from shimano for yours is called the shimano xt m800 press fit bottom bracket. A lot of them will say shell width of 68/73mm, which is fine because the "true" shell width from bearing to bearing is still 68/73mm.
  

I've had this one for a few months now. Works like a charm and I saved quite a bit of money. The only downside to it is that it's designed to hold the bike by the top tube, not by the seatpost. Other than that, it's awesome.

I use the Shimano MX80 (Zee) and I really like them. They look really nice and work well. Good price on Amazon too.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-153054-Pd-Mx80-Platform-Pedals/dp/B007Q4PBO8/

Totally normal. I do however recommend a WTB Race Comp saddle. Under 50 bucks on amazon and made a big difference to me. Didn’t add much bulk at all from my stock Bontrager.

The stock seat was so bad my ass quivered every time I even looked at my bike.

Now with my padded boxer shorts (which I prefer rather than padded bike shorts) it is tolerable and my booty no longer fears the ride.

Hope this is helpful!

PS. I am out of shape myself and after riding for about a month now I can tell you it’s one of the most rewarding things you’ll ever do if fitness and general health is a focus. Congratulations on taking these first steps!

I’m 240ish and if I can fit this seat you can too!

WTB Seat

Because of our conversation and looking things up in my Zinn book, I almost just bought this:

http://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Complete-Bicycle-Repair-Tools/dp/B005KWRITO/ref=sr_1_7?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1414421632&sr=1-7&keywords=bike+tools

But, I'm talking myself down from that for now. Gotta save something for Christmas! lol

I'm just going to buy the spoke tool for now. If I can use the extra chain laying around and automotive tools, then I'll try disassembling the hub and inspecting the grease. Thank you for helping me.

SixSixOne, only set me back $75
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OCZ1RQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I wear this with some cheaper thor goggles and they fit well together. This helmet lets your dome breathe well, and the best part is how much more peripheral vision it allows than any other helmets I've worn in the past.

Multi-use trails can be a real drag, even without shitty attitudes. Don't let it get you down though.

Anyone that rides multi-use trails, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a Timber Bell. A lot of hikers don't know what the bell is coming from but at least it gets their attention (assuming they aren't wearing headphones). I've had a few people on foot remark about how great the bell is to give warning. The nice thing is that you can disable the bell while you're climbing or on trails that are MTB only.

Pretty much agree, but I found these shorts to be a nice exception (though they're from Amazon, not aliexpress).

Super lightweight and long enough to come down to my kneepads. Well worth $25, especially when I compared them to $75 versions from Fox, TLD, etc. One season in and they're going strong. Zippers kind of suck, but I ride with a pack so it doesn't bother me.

You can get pretty decent cheap pedals on Amazon for like $20 and try it out

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ILX7OGA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502866523&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mtb+pedals&dpPl=1&dpID=412Lmaw9tEL&ref=plSrch

Honestly, unless clipless is really really helping you... like in a race... you really aren't getting much from it in recreational riding. You don't have anything to lose by getting some flats and putting on some shoes. Being able to "move around" isn't always a bad thing, not really. If your shoes/foot position is causing you problems you might find it helpful to be able to adjust on the fly or shake it out etc. You can always go back. With good pins the shoes don't always make a lot of difference, I use skate shoes but I've rode in vans or even running shoes and it was fine too, all day rides.

I use this on my handlebars:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X90ZYJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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and this on my helmet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IHIMJRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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The Shenkey is great and you could honestly just get two for helmet/handlebars

These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ILX7OGA/ref=pd_aw_sim_468_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CZY6MY0Y59XKQ1KVKCG6&dpPl=1&dpID=71g6YyE%2BY0L

Like I said, they look just like the race face chesters and have held up to pretty aggressive riding from my 210 lbs.

Maybe mount one of these cans of bear spray to your frame? It comes with the holster. Has good range. No need to fight off a bear with a knife... because... that won't end well.

Also maybe just a continuous bell on your bike? I have this bell with built in silencer and love it. Easy to flick on and off.

I've had great luck with these, and they're dirt cheap: Imrider Lightweight Polyamide Bike Pedals For BMX Road MTB Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ILX7OGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SB9RCbA668B04

Get a Bear Bell.

Hikers are happy they can hear you approaching and move out of the way.

Wild life can hear you and run away.

https://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Bear-Bell-Magnetic-Silencer/dp/B000J4U5AW/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1543439398&sr=1-4&keywords=bear+bell

Looking at Flat pedals considering a few different models and need advice on which one is the best.

SHIMANO SAINT

CRANK BROTHERS 50/50

CHESTER PLATFORM


XPEDO SPRY

Bonmixc Mountain Bike Pedals

Origin8 Ultim8 Slimline Platform Pedals

The last two are a bit less expensive but they look decent. I am aware that typically you get what you pay for. I've seen the Shimano Saint in store and the CrankBro in store. Xpedo SPRY seems to have reviews too

Where do you live? If it's anywhere with highly trafficked trails you should get him a bike bell like this one

I just bought this one this fall. I am really liking it...no battery wires anymore, good light pattern for a helmet light. I've only used it a dozen times so far, ~1.5 a 2 hour rides at a time. No complaints. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IHIMJRS/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Timber Bell

https://www.amazon.com/Tubes-Presta-Universal-Carded-Mountain/dp/B004YIE294/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497667098&sr=8-1&keywords=stans+valves

I run Shimano Saint Pedals, they take a beating without issue.

Pair them with some 5-10s and the pins hold your feet like glue

Imrider Lightweight Polyamide Bike Pedals For BMX Road MTB Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ILX7OGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yi9RCbSSPR7JP

These are what I use and have no complaints. The bearings probably aren't as good but otherwise they're grippy.

Probably a really dumb question but, I'm new to Mountain Biking and just got my first "real" bike last week.

The thing came with shit plastic pedals that I need to replace. What should I be looking for in a pedal? Is there really that big of a difference between these Shimano pedals for $60 and these DiamondBack Pedals for $15?

The DiamondBack pedals have 2 sizes listed. How do I know what size I need?