(Part 2) Best products from r/MechanicAdvice

I've run the numbers and I personally am not going to focus on oil changes. There are so many quick lube places that are charging less than $30 and it is simply not possible to compete. To compete, you will need to buy in large quantities which will be a pain with the variety of weights and types of oil out there. My 2 cents there.. I do plan to offer it as a service but not as my primary.

General maintenance including brakes, CEL, etc are what I'm hoping to do primarily. I'm looking to buy an Autel Scanner to help troubleshoot and speed work up faster than a basic OBD2 scanner can do. This may be a good entry level scanner if you're not wanting to drop $5k just yet on a Bosch

Check out this post, it is almost certainly related: https://www.reddit.com/r/sweatystartup/comments/cl38yi/4_month_update_left_engineering_job_to_run_mobile/

I assume having only 1 year of experience you do not hold any ASE certs? I don't either and I don't have business experience, more just garage work for friends and family over the years. I've swapped transmissions, built engines, replaces almost every component with a timing belt being the one I'm not acquainted with and that concerns me the most, though if I can do some research I imagine it's not too bad to do assuming other parts aren't in the way.

Vehicle wise I currently have a sedan with a large trunk. To me, this doesn't look professional and is fairly limiting. That said, I need to acquire a lot more tools depending on the work I get hired for. I think I need to upgrade to a truck shortly after starting.

A couple ideas for marketing. First, go to businesses and see if they will let you perform the maintenance in their lot/garage for employees. My current office has a detailing service on site a couple times a month. This could be great for getting new clients and helping drive referrals, no idea the cost if any. Second, go to small businesses with fleets. Offer to perform routine maintenance on their fleet during off hours which could help increase revenue. You hopefully will get called out to fix issues as they arrive. I believe these partnering tactics could really help grow.

Good luck and get started immediately! (I'm telling myself the same thing)

Before anything else: Someone else said jack stands - get them. Don't die under a car. I almost did, it's easier to fuck up than you think.



I have the 1.5 ton HF aluminum jack, I wish I had gone for something a little bigger. It doesn't really have the lift height for bigger jobs.



Another thing I don't see mentioned: LIGHTS. I keep two of each of these in my garage:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2HTGFL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015UC17E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Plus I have the Braun (HF) flexible work light:
https://www.harborfreight.com/390-lumen-magnetic-slim-bar-folding-led-work-light-63958.html
This thing is great, but I have the typical HF complaints about quality especially around its willingness to charge all the time. I put a washer on the battery and that seems to have solved the issue for now.



I wouldn't mess with a pneumatic impact unless you find yourself in a situation where you really need one and can't afford an electric. Your compressor flow rate has a lot more to do with its ability to run air tools than anything else, and unless you really have a shop quality compressor you won't run a pneumatic impact very long.



I'd wait until you really need an impact and if you find you do, I'd suggest this one:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-XR-20-Volt-Max-1-2-in-Drive-Variable-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-1-Battery-Included-and-Charger-Included/999947862



Now it's not the best electric impact you can get - the Milwaukee and Makita versions are both marginally better - but it's available at every big box store, and when you factor in the cost of batteries it's WAY cheaper.



For hand tools, I'd go 100% harbor freight (pittsburgh). Most things can be done with 3/8" and a lot of extensions, but having 1/2" is really helpful. If you use it enough to break it, upgrade then. I use 1/4" for lots of things but it's a luxury for the most part. Get metric deep and standard depth sockets. I also consider ratcheting box wrenches nearly a necessity. Again, the pittsburgh set is a great deal for what you get. Get all the lengths of extensions you can.



If you find you want (or need) nicer hand tools, my next step up is generally gearwrench. This set is one of the few things I might consider a splurge on out of the gate:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BTEXPDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



You need a torque wrench. Someone else suggested the tekton 1/2" drive and I 100% concur if you had to pick one to start with. Make sure you learn how to use it and how to properly store it. A deep lug socket (19mm or 21mm usually) is your friend, figure out what size your lug nuts are.



I can't live without a couple pairs of vice grips. They're by far my favorite tool for grabbing spring-loaded hose clamps.



You need at least one dead blow hammer. They're cheap as hell at harbor freight (noticing a theme?)



Magnet trays are usually free at harbor freight with a coupon and purchase. Get a nice stack of them, they're priceless.



Other Odds and ends that I use a bunch:

• I keep a 10mm T-handle which makes my life easier disassembling little crap under the hood
  
  
• The $20 set of t-handle hex wrenches from harbor freight gets used more than just about anything in my garage
  
  
• telescoping magnet
  
  
• telescoping inspection mirror
  
  
• Oil filter socket that fits the things you will work on. Will save your hands and knuckles.
  
  
• 9 mil (black) harbor freight rubber gloves
  
  
• you'll probably eventually need an O2 sensor socket. Get the crowfoot kind
  
  
• 5/16" nut driver gets an absolute workout on screw-type hose clamps.
  
  
• With the age of things you're working on, you're probably gonna need a mapp gas torch too
  
  
• pumice soap, like fast orange or something of the sort
  
  
• I get a lot more use out of my punch set than I expected, but not a must have
  
  Finally, abuse www.hfqpdb.com - there is often a coupon for whatever the hell it is you're gonna buy at harbor freight. If not, use the 20%.
  
  I'm sure I'll think of a bunch more stuff later on
  
  Edit: I told you I'd forget some stuff.
  
  Prybars are a must have
  
  A pick set is nearly a must-have
  
  One of my favorite things I've done is get a big bulk food scoop from GFS and put it in a 5-gallon bucket of oil dry. You end up needing it a lot.

It's the 4-cylinder. The original parts were Denso, but I'm pretty confident that I got the correct Dorman parts. It's a '99 Camry LE L4. EGR Valve, Modulator, VSV. None of the vacuum hose in the VSV/EGR/Modulator system is clogged. I actually checked the 5 or 6 hoses while I was replacing everything. I also sprayed some Gumout Carb Cleaner into into the intake when I took the EGR off. Cleaned the EGR pipe too.

This is the scanner I'm using. I'm also using the Torque app on my phone. As you can see, it offers some nice monitoring. I glanced at that Vacuum Boost graph while I was driving and I think I remember it sitting at around 15 when I was idling and dropping to 3 or 4 once I got going. I didn't check out the O2 graphs though. I'll log some graphs tomorrow and do some real testing.

Thanks so much for your awesome response. Troubleshooting this has been so frustrating and you've given me something to do.

Most here think it could be your valve cover gasket. No way to know 100% unless you were to see the source. I am leaning towards the valve cover gasket because I can see the oil drip (especially around like where the dipstick is) and also because those are things that are known to break. Some people here say head gasket but i really think thats unlikely because usually that is accompanied by a loss of coolant. If you change your oil and you see coolant then that's it. That is an involved repair.

The good news is if it is your valve cover gasket this isn't super urgent so long as your oil levels dont fall too low. A lot of people are driving around with leaky valve cover gaskets as we speak! My gf drove around with a very slow VCG leak for years. If it's a head gasket or a

The other good news is on your engine it is very easy to access, and amazon has the replacement part for $5 USD https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-25183348-Original-Equipment-Gasket/dp/B014MVJ87I (AC Delco is General Motors, so this is the actual original equipment manufacturer). Your local auto parts store would also have it in stock. To access you would just need to remove the ignition coil assembly (the black thing with two black "humps" bolted to the valve cover with 4 wires coming out labeled 1,2,3,4). And bolt off the valve cover. Probably good to disconnect the hoses. I would change the spark plugs while you're down there (the things at the end of those labeled 1,2,3,4 wires)

The medium news is that you will need to find someone with tools to do this. Tools can be expensive. You might be better off going to a mechanic unless one of your friends has tools. The mechanic will have all the tools and be sure to torque down the bolts in the right sequence and torque values. Some valve cover gaskets also require RTV silicone (less than $5, also available at auto parts store) but you have to know where to put it. My only concern is some of the bolts appear corroded and *may or may not* get stripped or break upon removal. Not saying that's a guaranteed or even a big deal but you have to have the tools and knowledge for how to deal with it. That's why im leaning towards a mechanic or a friend with a lot of tools.

The kind of concerning thing is The engine is actually built by Daewoo in south korea which is not known for reliability. Not saying there’s anything wrong with it but something to keep in mind

Here is the OEM upstream sensor you need: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380741249&sr=8-1&keywords=2344099

You don't necessarily have to buy it off Amazon but they have the best price for it. Denso is Hondas OEM manufacturer. Make sure it is the Denso 234-4099 model number. It is what it came with. Also, for spark plugs and wires, use NGK. NGK ZFR5F-11. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and get those. It shouldn't cost more than $3 a piece and you need 4. Here are the spark plug wires: http://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741594&sr=1-1-fkmr1&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=1998+honda+civic+dx+spark+plug+wires

As for tools, you'll need a 7/8" offset o2 sensor socket and a breaker bar because it will be on tight! For the spark plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber piece or a magnet inside to grip the spark plug. the wires won't require tools but you'll need a bit of dielectric grease to prevent the elements from getting to the connections.

I recommend you use this spark plug socket. It's treated me really well and is very durable: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741751&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+tool Also, it won't hurt if you go and buy a 3/8" 6" extension for your 3/8" ratchet.

Looks like the bed of an old chevrolet.

They make these rubber/plasticy fender flares for four wheelin' that basically hole punch or self tap onto your existing body (it's brutal but looks like a few new holes are the least of that car's body issues) don't get the ones with the adhesive.. those ones are shit, get the ones that physically attach to your rusted out panels lol

These are just examples, you'll have to find he ones that fit your exact truck/suv of course but they make them for just about every truck ever made, they're pretty affordable.https://www.amazon.com/Premium-2010-2018-Fleetside-Paintable-Bolt-Riveted/dp/B01NATZCNC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=fender+flares&qid=1563498806&s=gateway&sr=8-6

I'd use a pair of Tin snips and work your way through that rust until you get back to pretty fresh metal.. then sand the edges with 40~60 grit and then paint it with that anti-rusting primer paint and go about buttoning on those new fender flares.. you'll pass with flying colors for about 100$ and a few hours of basic work.

[edit] Here's a triple pair of metal working snips... lol you'll probably want all three and figure out why about 20 minutes into cutting the first fender... so I linked what i'd personally get for that job and maybe a few more around the house in the future because they're pretty useful tools to have in general.https://www.amazon.com/Aviation-Straight-Cutters-Aluminum-Leather/dp/B07RKHV3GC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=tin+snips&qid=1563498992&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Yeah, sorry about it being a bit different. GM has a tendency to do things wildly different for no apparent reason sometimes.

I really couldn't find a decent picture or description anywhere.
Even this AutoZone image was just, 'here's all the parts': http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/job-info/en/US/07004001.jpg/1.image

There's no quick fix for removing solids from the ducting, but for smells try something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Clean-Air-Kit/dp/B000IMB4CI
That particular brand is supposed to work really well. I know we sold stuff like that at the parts store I worked at. Something like it should be fairly easy to come across.

I'm glad you got it taken care of. I'll be looking forward to the aftermath. I wish you a pile of karma.

Get this book, focus on the complicated things like electrical and diagnostics and learn to read and interpret wiring diagrams,

Automotive Service: Inspection,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/0827373546?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you can take service manuals home to study, do so. Ask questions, listen, always clean up after yourself. Find exercises that increase your grip strength and practice good lifting practices. Always be on time.

I bought this book for both my boys and get Haynes Manuals for their cars at birthdays or holidays.

Never say no to a request for help and keep a positive attitude in the face of the adversity you are seeing

Good luck and thanks for breaking the stereotype, guys will be better for it working with you, whether they ever show it or not.

Do not get the 1/2" Snap-On gun.

Get the IR 2135TiMax or 2135QTiMax.

Snap-On makes great tools, even their 3/8" Impact is phenomenal (albeit a measly $20 a week for the rest of your life type deal), but bang for your buck, IR is the way to go. I've seen guys with the 231c and it's a great gun that runs forever, but why not spend a few more bucks and get an even better/stronger/more comfortable gun that runs as long as that, if not longer?

As for the 1/2" Snap-On..I've seen more of those break at the ~1 year mark, leaving the guys who bought it completely boned out of their warranty. As they're still paying for it. Sad stuff man..

Personally, I own the 2135QTiMax, and I love it. Oil it once a week (twice if the oil change/tire rotates are as frequent as a pimp asking for his money) and it's stayed quiet and more powerful than the Snap-On guns that claim to have more power. I've had to leave my bay with this gun to help people out who've "forgotten to oil" their Snap-On guns, and showed them which Impact brand really reigns supreme.

Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.

How to replace brake pads and rotors

How to replace shock absorbers

How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)

You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...

The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!

I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.

Great thank you for the help and explanation. What are your feelings on the starter solenoids sold on amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-SS598T-Solenoid/dp/B004C0S8NA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541133433&sr=8-3&keywords=starter+solenoid

​

They seem to have OK reviews, not spectacular. Even the name brand ones like ACDelco and Motorcraft are around 3.5 stars.

​

Given that a solenoid is just a relay I'm finding choosing a good one is downright more complicated than it should be.

​

Found the one you posted, AZ F492 on Amazon.. appears similar to the one above. https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-F492-Starter-Solenoid/dp/B003X0Z64O

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Either way I'm going to order one and give it go

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If they are the same as the MK4 Golf/Jetta, they are solid and Lemforder is the OEM brand. I actually have a set of Lemforders down in the basement I bought when I was doing a suspension refresh but didn't install them. The originals are still good at 190k miles.

As far as greasing the contact surfaces and easing installation, I would recommend silicone grease. That is safest for rubber. That is also what is used on brakes typically.

Edit: Something like this, or this.

Personally I have a PLX Kiwi3 adapter and use OBDFusion app ($9.99). OBDFusion has some vehicle-specific enhanced diags add-ons ($9.99 ea). I own the add-ons for Nissan and Toyota which gives me something like 1,000 PIDs for each platform. So, for example, I can read several hundred Nissan CVT PIDs and also several hundred Toyota hybrid battery parameters.

Keep in mind that by default most software-based solutions are very limited in terms of 'write' capability because this would require lots of testing and could break something. Thus OBDFusion (and most software solutions) cannot do oil reset, nor many functions that require bi-directional communication with the vehicle OBDII interface.

OBDFusion has the capability to create 'dashboards' where you can monitor as many sensors as you want in real-time. You can also record/log sensor data and it overlays GPS data from the smartphone, so you can track MPG or see what your fuel trims were on a particular stretch of road.

Keep in mind the interfaces of almost all software-based solutions are very cryptic and require a lot of digging around, so if you expect these to be a quick and easy troubleshooting tool, you will be disappointed.

My advice is that in terms of quick troubleshooting and actual component testing. Autel makes some pretty nice scan tools starting at the $500 price point.

A bluetooth solution is great for looking at data, but a proper scan tool can set/reset many parameters and in some cases do basic oscilloscope functions as well.

https://www.auteltech.com/

edit:
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiCOM-MK808-Diagnostic-Diagnosis/dp/B0744B55QV/

https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

>OBD Fusion now supports enhanced diagnostics for Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda, Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Nissan and Infiniti vehicles. Enhanced diagnostics provide access to additional modules such as ABS, Airbag, Transmission, 4x4, and Body Control modules. You also get access to hundreds of additional parameters that are not available over standard OBD2. Enhanced diagnostics are available through an In-App Purchase in OBD Fusion.

https://www.plxdevices.com/Kiwi-3-OBD-Car-to-Smartphone-Connection-p/897346002832.htm

I have an amazon gift card. These look good?

GEARWRENCH 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPh8CbWQXEXA9

A & E Hand Tools 4450A E-Z Grip Spark Plug Gap Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKMCDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RQh8CbWQM1TVT

A good reliable flashlight is invaluable when you need it, get a good one cheap flashlight tend not to work when you need them most. I recommend these pen lights they're compact, very bright and durable. http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66118-Stylus-Flashlight-Holster/sim/B0015UC17E/2

Forgot to mention perhaps the best mix of easiest and most likely to work....

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_5

I'm guessing it's this stuff.

And no, it's not going to improve your gas mileage. It might help clean carbon deposits out of your fuel system and help your car run slightly more efficiently, but any MPG gains will be negligible. You're not going to go from 18 MPG to 25 MPG just by putting some of this in your tank.

Well the cheapest option is just to drive the car, like I said before. You can buy a charger in the $50 range at Walmart/Amazon or any of these kinds of places. They're handy to have one around. Something like this: Schumacher.

I also like these small ones, which are basically slow chargers that can be left on indefinitely. Theyre good for when you have a car in storage for months, you just plug this in and leave it on. They are also capable of recharging your battery but itll take about 24 hours: battery tender.

Get a trickle charger, battery tender jr at walmart. Charge overnight, done.

I get Free overnight from Amazon on some things. Might be worth a shot https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S

Fascinating. I'm wondering if Subaru recommends and approves only one type of "stop leak", something they call a coolant conditioner, such as this, https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

I had an impact socket crack and I didn't notice it until I found that I rounded a few of my lugs. Not a good feeling when trying to put the lugs back on. Anyway, I thought I'd give the Irwin Bolt Grips a try. Just hold them flush to the lug, pound them on with a few good whacks, put your cheater on, let the teeth bite and you should be home free. I was really surprised at how well they worked.

There are two sets, so get the one with the size that you need.

Supposedly This is the best over the counter penetrating oil you can buy. I've never used it. I personally use This.

There is a penetrant you can buy called Aerokroil that Ford recommends specifically for removal of stuck spark plugs. It is recommeded by name in the factory training video for removal of the 3 piece spark plugs that get stuck in the triton engines. This stuff is amazing.
Before you break it off, get a can of this and let it soak in for an hour or so. The plug will probably come right out.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393988347&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

First, the electrical hum you mention is just electrical noise that often comes from cheap phone chargers and aux cords and in no way related to this or any other problem.

By external temperature gauge do you mean the ambient temperature sensor and display? That just tells you the temp outside but if heat is building under the hood while not moving it may show a warmer temperature. Other than that this tells you nothing about what is happening inside the engine.

Have you checked the coolant level? Only open the cap when the car is completely cool but you can usually check by looking at the reservoir and don't need to remove the cap.

A shop or someone with a scan tool can read the coolant temperature the ECU is seeing. Generally, if the overheat light comes on the car is overheating and you may be doing significant damage by continuing to allow this to occur.

My primary suspect based on your description is the cooling fan behind the radiator isn't running since you only mention a problem when not moving. Strangely, the fan normally runs at higher speed and on a different circuit when the A/C is on but yours may be completely failed. The other possibility is a failing water pump that isn't moving enough coolant at idle.

Please don't continue to drive like this, it will only end badly.

If you want the cheapest way to determine engine temp without paying someone else you could by an OBD2 reader that connects to a smartphone like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=psdc_15707381_t2_B07JFRFJG6

You install an app on your phone and can make it display live temperature data on your screen while driving; just make sure your phone is compatible or find one like this that is.

If you can get some Aerokroil. This shit is amazing, it will loosen just about anything.

If it still doesn't come out, spray it down with Aerokroil and let it sit overnight to soak in. Next day use a torch to heat up whatever the bolt is threaded into, while cooling the actual bolt with some ice. This will cause the the metal to expand and shrink, loosening the fit on them.

I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.

http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7

Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!

Do you have a small leak anywhere, and was the water pump changed the last time the timing belt was done? As others have mentioned the thermostat is a good place to start. Also Subaru makes a coolant conditioner that should be used when not using genuine Subaru coolant. It's a small bottle that can easily be found on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

What kind of gas are you running? What brand?

In turbo engines running cheap low grade gas can cause carbon buildup. You should be buying gas from top tier stations.

Run this through your truck a couple of times, should help.

BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z4EKybBVCRTRY

Very informative, thank you. Would a battery tender https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S?ie=UTF8&redirect=true fully charge the battery or would I have to opt for normal battery charger.

Battery Tender Jr. Or any of the other Battery Tender Chargers.

Best. Lube. Ever.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=pd_lpo_469_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=89Y0Z7YWWM97541FFBRA

Sears carries these in a Craftsman brand also.