(Part 3) Best products from r/MechanicalKeyboards

Edit(August 15, 2019): Winners announcement!!!

Lucky Winners:

1. u/FLHCv2  （Tkl71ws wireless MK + K37 Blue PBT keycap set）
   
   
2. u/Henrythewound （Tkl71ws wireless MK + K104 Blue and white PBT keycap set）
   
   Good day! Thank everyone for entering the Velocifire Tkl71ws wireless MK Giveaway! Also, thanks mod team for helping me to organize the amazing campaign! Over 1.4K friends have joined this Giveaway, So 2 lucky winners have been chosen. I will contact you guys for the prize shipment, please check your inbox. If you do want to secure one, don’t hesitate to get one from our website.(Get 15% off ,code: v71c15)
   
   In case you want our other products, please check special offers below:
   
   Up to 50% off, get Velocifire Back to School Deals
   
   TKL78 wired, 78 key, final price at $25.49 with 15% off code: OMHRIYXI (Valid to Aug.18)
   
   TKL02 wired, 87 key, final price at $28.89 with 15% off code: QHK85593 (Valid to Aug.18)
   
   Thank you all for your support and encouragement!
   
   ​
   
   Hi MK members,
   
   Good day! We are launching a 71 key wireless MK and PBT keycap set and would love to run this giveaway to thank all MK enthusiasts' support here. Hope you will like it!
   
   About the keyboard
   
   -71 keys, Brown Switches
   
   -Ice Blue Led Backlit and Multicolored Sidelight
   
   -USB2.0 receiver (Wireless2.4Ghz)
   
   -1000 mAH Build-in Lithium Battery
   
   - MSRP: $45.99
   
   UP to Two Keyboards +PTB Keycap set
   
   1.Tkl71ws wireless MK +K37 Blue PBT keycap set
   
   2.Tkl71ws wireless MK +K104 Blue and white PBT keycap set
   
   We will give away at least one and up to TWO prizes based on the total number of entrants when this campaign ends. For every 100 entrants above, we will give away one more Velocifire Tkl71ws. For instance, we will have 2 winners when we reach 200 entrants.
   
   How to Enter?
   
   Simply answer this question:
   
   
3. How would you use this keyboard?
   
4. Subscribe to us for an update(Optional)
   
   [Ends on August 14 at 12:00 PM PST, 2019]
   
   Winners will be selected randomly and announced on August 15 in this thread.
   
   If you do want to secure one, please join our BOGO (Aug. 7- Aug.10)
   
   In case you want our wired TKL MK, please check special offers here:
   
   TKL78 wired, 78 key, final price at $25.49 with 15% off code: OMHRIYXI (Valid to Aug.18)
   
   TKL02 wired, 87 key, final price at $28.89 with 15% off code: QHK85593 (Valid to Aug.18)
   
   Note:
   
   This is a global giveaway so you can take part from anywhere in the world! We will ship the prizes before September 10, 2019, and all shipping fees will be covered.
   
   About Velocifire
   
   Many thanks for the Mod Team's support! Feel free to ask me anything! Good Luck Everyone! (●'◡'●)

Is Preonic worth the investment?

I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.

I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.

Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.

That said, it's a nice compromise.

Is it a good build for a beginner?

It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.

Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.

The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.

What is a good soldering station?

Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.

Soldering rules for beginners

1. Don't hold the heat on any part for more than 5 seconds. If it starts looking like a mess, go solder other parts and let things cool off before coming back to fix it. Don't freak out about the speed, just be deliberate and have things ready before you start applying heat
   
2. Use leaded solder because it's much easier to melt and manipulate
   
3. Use rosin core, no clean solder so you don't have to futz around with flux or flux cleaner
   
4. Put the iron down when you're not using it. It is shaped like a pencil and we humans like to tuck those between fingers while manipulating things. Do not do this.
   
   There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.

Well you're extremely broad over what you want. First of all you need to determine what switch you want. Do you want something clicky or quiet? Do you want a bump or have a smooth key switch? Are you on a budget?

But from what you have given, there are a TON of choices you can choose. If you're on a budget and want a 65% mechanical keyboard, then go with the [Magicforce 68] (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PT4A/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1473908920&sr=8-23&keywords=qisan+mechanical+keyboard). There are also options of gateron blue or red I believe. If you are looking for a white tenkeyless and want some keycaps that will last for a while, try the Ducky One with PBT keycaps. If you try to find the same board with Dye-Sub PBT keycaps (High quality, ABS keycaps will shine overtime) except with different switches, just browse around the website. Another tenkeyless option is the Gans GS-87, which is honestly a steal for the price with Blue LEDS. There are also many assorted Chinese mechanical keyboards that are out there for pretty cheap compared to these boards on Amazon that are white.

You also didn't seem to mention anything about a 60% layout. It's usually up to personal preference but there are some white boards that look pretty sweet. Pok3r is definitely a reliable company with great products and a great board to start adding things like custom keycaps and artisan keycaps. Recently, the Anne Pro is booming with it's low price point and pretty decent quality.

I can't help you any further unless you give me more details. I hope this helps!

Suggestions when all I care about is 6KRO?

I don't dislike Rubber Domes, but losing key inputs from ghosting is awful. I've had a chance to try Cherry Blues and Cherry Blacks - Blacks I liked less than Rubber Dome; Blues were about equal but entirely too loud (I'm a streamer and I don't want loud keyboard noises picked up on the microphone). Desired specs:

• 6KRO. NKRO would obviously be fine but shouldn't be necessary.
  
• Full-sized keyboard (with large backspace and standard 2-row Ins-Home-PgUp) - I've heard tenkeyless is better ergonomically but I simply use the numpad too much.
  
• The quieter the better, but doesn't need to be silent.
  
• No macro keys on the sides; standard width. (Standard height is also preferable but less essential.)
  
• Other bonuses are likely irrelevant to me: I don't care about lighting, fancy keycaps, or modability.
  
• Either USB or PS/2 is fine, wired is fine (preferable?)
  
  So - I'd be perfectly happy with a Rubber Dome keyboard that had 6KRO, but these are rare and tend to cost as much as decent switches anyway. I can afford up to ~$200, but considering I currently have a preference for Rubber Dome much of what increases a keyboard's price isn't something I'm interested in paying for.
  
  Thus, I'm considering perhaps the Velocifire VM01, with off-brand Brown Switches and good ratings (I'd also get o-rings with it). I'd even consider e.g. a low-end Topre but am not convinced I'd find the extra cost worth it? Open to other suggestions as well.

I wouldnt worry about it. iKBC makes high-quality boards. "Real" cherry switches are no better than many of their competitiors, such as kailh switches and gateron switches, and generally tend to feel worse. If you do a search of this forum (which I strongly recommend, so that you learn more about mech boards in general), you'll find that most serious enthusiasts do not like the feel of cherry switches unless they have modified them in some way - such as taking them apart to apply lube, or swapping them into the housing of one of their competitors. "Real Cherry" is a marketing gimmick, and if this is your only concern, you can save money by getting a "knock-off" board for much less.

As for stabilizers: this is a case of you get what you pay for. Off-the-shelf boards with great stabilizers include: vortex vibe (60% + numpad), and the vortex race (75%, no numpad), but these tend to retail for around $130 USD. Other more expensive brands, such as leopold, have great stabilizers too. Rattly stabs are easy to fix, in any case.

Other brands you might look into: Coolermaster makes solid entry-level full-sized boards, and they have excellent stabilizers, and does the brand Ducky. Rosewill is another option: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bk38zb_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=5K7ZA2QY682GE8P8EK93&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=0717e713-00ea-5675-b7dd-2d1ae0cbad07&pf_rd_i=680461011

Another option still is RedDragon: https://www.amazon.ca/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=lp_680461011_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523199659&sr=1-8

Cooler Master: https://www.amazon.ca/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Keycaps/dp/B072C516B9/ref=lp_680461011_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523199659&sr=1-18 .

And yes, fees tend to be higher in Canada.

If you are really, truly, concerned, I would spend the time to do some keyword searches in this forum. I dont mean this offensively, but a lot of your concerns are fairly noobish and reading up on what other people say will probably assuage them, and make you feel better about spending money on whatever board you eventually do get (I speak from experience on this). Your keyboard needs are fairly straightforward, so you should be able to get a solid board that meets them without spending more than you want to.

I need help making a purchase decision. I bought my first mechanical a few months ago. It was a $40-something off-brand with Outemu blue switches, and OH MY GOD was it a breath of fresh air compared to the mushy swamp keyboard I'd been struggling with since college. Clickety clackety never going backety.

Now I want to replace my work keyboard. I prefer something sedate and professional looking, and I really like having a number pad. I've pretty much settled on Cherry brown switches this time, but I'm tossing around a couple of different models in the sub-$100 category. The thoughts of /r/mechanicalkeyboards are welcome:

• Rosewill RK-9000. A pretty popular entry-level board, and I know the brand.
  
• CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire XT. CM's seem to have a decent reputation at this price point, and I've read rumors that the QuickFires are made in the same factory as some Filco models.
  
• iKBC C104. This is the model I'm most curious about. It looks like a nicely built keyboard with higher quality key caps, but I can't find much information about the brand other than some references to a MassDrop sale a while back. What's the deal here?
  
  Thanks!

Hm... I need help.

--

Basic history first: I have a Logitech G710+, I like brown switches, and I dislike the non-standard layout of the G710+ which prevents me from easily buying new keycap sets, especially because I don't live in the US.

--

Basically I fell in love with the 90% keyboard layout. It's this layout if anyone is wondering.

--

So I'd very much like to have a keyboard like that. The Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro M looks like the best keyboard to fit the bill. However, I can't buy it locally in my country because it doesn't come with the ANSI layout, which is the one I want. So I'd have to get it from outside. And I'm having lots of trouble finding it. I found this Amazon listing for one, but it looks like it's a "like new" keyboard, so that worries me. On the other hand, that's the only actual listing I managed to find of that keyboard. I can't find it anywhere else.

So my question is: are there any other keyboards with the same layout as the Masterkeys Pro M (yes, I know about the list in here, but I just want to be sure that there aren't any new ones in the market.)? And if not, is buying the keyboard from that Amazon listing a safe thing to do?

A proper 60% has all the keys of at least a TKL, just that many are on the function layer. On my programmable 60% 'boards, I have Home mapped to FN+T, and End mapped to FN+G. WASD are my arrow keys, and FN is mapped to Caps Lock. I am a Linux admin, and do a fair bit of scripting, and I greatly prefer 60% now.

Did you use Autohotkey to map a pseudo function layer and use Right Alt as a Fn key? That is about the only way to mimic a 60%.

I have a Vastar soldering kit, that I have used to build several keyboards. Sure, there are better kits, but it works well enough, and the price is good. It should be more than good enough to replace a switch.

I have a WASD CODE TKL, and it is really solid. I understand WASD are Costar 'boards, so a Filco would be very similar. A KUL ES87 is supposed to be extremely good. A bit of a step down, but still quite good would be a Ducky, Leopold or Varmilo.

MK offers free shipping, and usually arrives 3-5 days.

I just bought a CTRL last weekend, but I hate the color of the keys that it came with. There are seemingly endless options for ultra-high quality keycap sets that would work well, but none that are backlit.

I really want some keycaps that take full advantage of the CTRL's RGB. More Specifically, I'm looking for some white keycaps. That probably makes it even harder. I bought these to try them out, and the quality was so bad I seriously debated if it would be worth the satisfaction of crushing them with a hammer rather than returning for a refund.

The feel of the keys is fine, and they are nice and thick. Problem is, over 20% of the keys have rough molding marks on the lower edges and bottom. Every key larger than 1x1 has very minor warping, with the space bar particularly horrible. Just unacceptable quality to be using, especially on a $200 board.

I don't think what I am looking for is particularly or unreasonably outlandish. Just white, backlit keycaps that aren't made out of pure Chinesium or cheap, thin ABS. No cringe-inducing gam3r font. I would prefer if the number row was horizontal to allow for the backlighting to be even. Under $100 for the set. That's it.

---
I know GMMK has some, but I don't really have any idea on the quality. They're ABS, but I don't really know how thick. From the pictures, they give off the vibe of stock OEM keycaps that you would instantly replace anyway.

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I've seen the Vortex PBT+POM 104 key set recommended in the past, but it's out of stock on MK.com and Amazon. I don't really like that the number row is vertical either, since the numbers won't be illuminated as much as the symbols would be.

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I know Vortex has a newer 126 key set, but I don't think it matters. People have said it's lower quality than the older PBT+POM set, and it's OOS every anyway as far as I can tell.

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I have seen the Capturer Backlit Doubleshot PBT Keycap Set recommended on this subreddit a few times. It seems to have good reviews. Although I wouldn't be excited about waiting three weeks to see what mystery Chinese keycaps show up, I will if the quality is actually there.

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This 109 key set from Amazon seller "Happy Balls" appears to be the same keycap set as the Capturer on AliExpress, which makes me concerned about both sets. The light bleed through the caps looks outright poisonous from the reviewer submitted images, and while the seller promises to replace any keycaps that arrive damaged or defective, the keycaps get pretty mixed reviews. The seller also has an 80% rating, and from experience anything under 98% means the seller basically gives you the middle finger and blows you off.

---

The most promising set I have found are the IKBC PBT Backlit Doubleshot 108 key set on Amazon. They get rave reviews on Amazon, domestic shipping, and they look pretty good illuminated from the user review images. The price seems to good to be true though, so I am a bit skeptical. I would love to know if anyone has any experience with this set.

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Overall I can say it's more than a little disappointing. With today's ubiquity of RGB mechanical keyboards, SMD LEDs on PCBs, and backlight compatible switches, I would think we would have some higher end options for backlit keys by now. I would more than appreciate a little help finding a good set.

Hey, first off, I think it's awesome that you're going so out of your way to get such an amazing gift for your boyfriend! Based off of everything that you've, he doesn't seem to be too well-versed in mechanical keyboards which is totally fine. I think a great keyboard that he can tinker with and "upgrade" later on is the Glorious Modular Mechanical Keyboard. It has hotswap capability which means he can buy new keyswitches later on and easily replace the ones on his keyboard to get a more premium feel or just to experiment. It is currently on amazon for $75 and I think he'll really like it. There are tons of other boards out there, but based off of what you've described, I think he'll really like this one. Please don't hesitate to private message me or ask any more questions as this subreddit is, for the most part, really friendly and helpful. Here is a link to the board I was talking about,

Glorious Modular Mechanical Keyboard (GMMK)

Your English is quite good :)

I wouldn't really recommend the three options that you listed as they aren't really the best value for the money (especially so with the Logitech and the Corsair). Instead, I'd recommend either the GMMK or the Redragon K556, mainly because both of these keyboards have the ability to pull out the keyswitches and replace them with new ones, which can be extremely useful for both longevity purposes and for customizing your keyboard to your liking. The Redragon would be a good value conscious option, while the GMMK is the better choice for pulling out keyswitches, as the GMMK seems to have a wider range of compatibility versus the Redragon.

Also, unless you're specifically a fan of memchanical keyboards, I wouldn't recommend the CM Masterset, as they don't come close to replicating what an actual mechanical keyboard feels like.

Looking for a new keyboard my budget is around $100. I do not know much about keyboards other than what I read in the wiki. Currently I have my eyes on three keyboards that are pretty cheap and look pretty decent. If you have a much better alternative that blows everything else away for its price point let me know. However please explain why the keyboard is better than the ones listed for its price increase/decrease as I want to take it as a learning experience for future purchases & get the best bang for my buck. Somethings I am looking for in this keyboard is that it is a

-Mechanical Keyboard

-Wired

-Has separate function keys

-Durable / Can survive a few years of button smashing in world of warcraft

-Heard something about red & brown buttons being more satisfying for gaming so lets go with that

Extras (not that important)

I do not really care for lights on my keyboard as I would probably turn them off anyways, I like white keyboards but can live without it being white, and I like it when each key is raised and I can see underneath.

Red Dragon K552 $29

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552W-N-Mechanical-Keyboard-Construction/dp/B07D3GR1MK/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=mechanical+keyboard&qid=1562365752&refinements=p_89%3AEagleTec%7CRedragon%7CVELOCIFIRE%2Cp_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-7

EagleTec KG040 $28

https://www.amazon.com/EagleTec-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Construction/dp/B074F2J37K/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=mechanical+keyboard&qid=1562365752&refinements=p_89%3AEagleTec%7CRedragon%7CVELOCIFIRE%2Cp_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Velocifire Tenkeyless $30

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Double-Shot-Copywriter-Programmer/dp/B071W16NVZ/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=mechanical+keyboard&qid=1562365752&refinements=p_89%3AEagleTec%7CRedragon%7CVELOCIFIRE%2Cp_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-18

Red Dragon K509 $20

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K509-Keyboard-Mechanical-Illuminated/dp/B0797NX6D5/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=mechanical+keyboard&qid=1562365752&refinements=p_89%3AEagleTec%7CRedragon%7CVELOCIFIRE%2Cp_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-10#customerReviews

​

MeToo $20-$30

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32742079000.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.21ba696br4IPul&algo_pvid=4d6ad5ab-9e3e-4ca0-a466-4f4dff94c493&algo_expid=4d6ad5ab-9e3e-4ca0-a466-4f4dff94c493-0&btsid=38fd4e4a-1148-4842-87b8-91d0a7b54a43&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_3%2Csearchweb201603_52

​

I love the look of Anne Pro 2, but... it does not have separate function keys so its a no go.

Thanks!

It is a gaming mouse but the Razer Deathadder Essential is a really good, comfortable, and quiet mouse. It's great for office work and can be found cheap in plain packaging on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Essential-Ergonomic-Comfortable/dp/B00AAS888S/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480653770&sr=1-2&keywords=deathadder+3.5g

And the Rosewill RK-9000V2 BR with MX Browns is a great upper-mid end board with solid build quality and switches that are not overly loud.

My point was that switch preference is subjective. What I like won't necessarily be what you like. But one switch type isn't outright "better" for gaming than any other. I prefer tactile switches like Cherry MX Brown and Clear, but some people game on Reds (linear), Blues or Greens (clicky), or even heavy switches like Tactile Grays. The guy who got me interested in mechanical keyboards games on a Buckling Spring IBM Model M.

As it seems you're just starting out, I'd suggest something with Brown switches, which in my opinion is a good middle-of-the-road switch. After using them you can decide if you like the tactile feedback, or if you'd prefer not to have it (which would mean Reds or Blacks), or if you like it but you'd like a click sound too (which would mean Blues or Greens).

I'd actually suggest you go a slightly different direction and get the Velocifire TKL01 for $30, or maybe the James Donkey 619 for $50. Both are backlit but you can turn the lights off.

So I was searching around a bit more since you guys made some compelling arguments and found another pretty cool contender. The Redragon K556 Devarajas seems really awesome. This one is actually all metal unlike the corsair, still has all the features I liked about the corsair, and is quite a bit cheaper!

Also, I was checking out the brands you guys suggested, like Ducky and Coolermaster but it seems that they charge a bit more for the backlighting. Ducky has some really nice ones but they tend to run at around 150 with RGB, while coolermaster runs about 140.

My logic here is that the Redragon could hold me over for a couple of years until I have a better job and can afford a 150-200 dollar range keyboard.

Fingers crossed that ya'll like the Redragon haha

I'd pass on it honestly, the description is sketchy since their describing what sounds like blues yet what their selling is a red switch, it uses the new style outemu red switches that have a boxed design that's supposed to keep dust out of the switch, honestly I have never had that problem though... outemu switches are not the best though, well their blues are amazing but all of their other switches are on the "meh" side, if you want a better switch experience you should go for something that has Gateron Switches, since Gateron has by far the smoothest linear switches (Assuming your looking for linear switches as you say in the op)

Also the board you linked seems to require software to drive the leds and other features, that is generally annoying since there's another thing that needs to be constantly opened in the background and if the app breaks or something and the devs don't want to update it your board is as good as dead and your down to a basic keyboard.

Honestly you would have more options if you where willing to go TKL, like the Drevo Calibur 71 or the Magicforce 68, best I could find you for basic backlit full size boards are as follows :

1. Magicforce 108 (Fullsize 108 key, Gateron Red, White Backlighting, Media Controls) - https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HGI7YN4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492312737&sr=8-3&keywords=magicforce+108
   
   
2. Plugable Mechanical Keyboard (Fullsize 104 key, Outemu Blue, White Backlighting) - https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Mechanical-Enthusiasts-Backlighting-Double-shot/dp/B01MA6O13L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492313246&sr=8-1&keywords=plugable+mechanical+keyboard
   
   
3. E-Element Z88 (Fullsize 104 key, Outemu Blue, Swappable Switches, RGB Backlighting) - https://www.amazon.com/E-Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXBZXFC/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1492313383&sr=8-21&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+rgb
   
   Basically the last one was my "if all else fails" since you can swap them easily without having to solder.
   
   Edit: All of the above are $50+, your probably not going to find a higher quality fullsize board with RGB for less than that, if your still constricted to your budget you should consider buying a second hand mechanical keyboard.

Gateron Browns instead is a lot better. Slightly more expensive, but Gateron is very good and definitely worth the extra money (it's $20 more which is like two or three fast food meals, for something that'll last you years).

A magicforce is the most recommended budget board, so it's definitely a good choice.

Currently looking for my first mechanical keyboard. I've looked at the wiki, but there's so much information I'm honestly a bit overwhelmed.

At the moment I've narrowed my choice to a full keyboard with brown switches. I think I'd like full RGB customization as well.

I have $125 to Amazon, so am focusing my search there. Anyone have any suggestions? Can a be a bit more than the 125 if it's really worth the money. Thanks!

Is something like this a good keyboard?
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1511835084&sr=8-25&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

Hey guys,

I currently live in Canada, the land of expensive PC components, and I'm looking at getting into the world of mechanical keyboards. I'm hoping to spend around $100, and it seems like options might be limited. I would love to get something like the Leopold FC900R but it seems the only retailer that will ship to Canada is mechanicalkeyboards.com and I'm probably looking at over $200 after shipping and currency conversion. My only real requirement is a detachable USB connection (so it can be stored easily) and a full-size number pad.

Would anyone have any recommendations to get my feet wet? I've been looking at this Rosewill keyboard: https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-RK-9000V2-BR/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=sr_1_18?crid=AFYWZTOVWTXV&keywords=mechanical%2Bkeyboards&qid=1563976704&s=gateway&sprefix=mechanical%2B%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-18&th=1

It seems like a great value, and uses Cherry MX Brown which is seems really solid.

Thoughts??

What about the CM Quickfire Rapid. If you don't mind buying second-hand, they go for $40-50 shipped on /r/mechmarket often enough. Cooler Master is definitely a well-recommended brand around here. Good mechanical keyboards (ex. Ducky, Leopold, Filco, topre) don't tend to go on sale all that often, so that's one thing. I'm not super elitist about quality but I feel like anything between $50-100 brand new is just an awkward price range. It's too expensive to be a "good deal" but not quite expensive enough to get you good quality.

For lesser recommended but still-better-than-Chinese-random we have this Rosewill and this Drevo.

I'm not super knowledgeable about cheap boards since I'm pretty picky about board quality but those should be some good starting points.

I have the same PCB in a nice walnut wood case and Gateron Yellow (smooth linear) keycaps and love it. The layout is not standard so you have to be creative depending on your keycap choice. There are great high quality doubleshot PBT backlit keycap sets on Amazon for $30. I used the white ones and the lighting is perfect. https://www.amazon.com/IKBC-Doubleshot-Mechancial-Keyboard-Mechanical/dp/B0779TNTVY

This PCB has been around a long time and very stable.

Hello there! Glad to see you're following the general advice and trying out switches and whatnot instead of buying a board and realising you dislike the switches later on. At first I did that, and ended up going through 5 boards.

>
I'm looking to free up a little space on my desk, so I think I'm going to be at least looking for a tenkeyless board. I thought about going as small as 60%, but I honestly use the arrow keys pretty frequently when I do any kind of typing/editing.

Arrow keys are still accessible on a 60% like a Pok3r, either through FN+IJKL, or by pressing windows + alt + space I believe, turns Rshift+Rwin+FN+control into the arrow keys. Otherwise like you mentioned, a 65% like a magicforce 68 / Varmilo VA68M would work. They still have a standard layout so it'll work with custom keycaps.

That hurts to hear D:

True. I mean she has a makeup obsession, but in her defense, she's the manager of a large chain makeup store lol. Maybe one day she will understand :P

I will! I'm planning on doing the holtite mod, Frosty Flake mod, wrapping the plate in red carbon fiber wrap, aftermarket caps, and possibly an aftermarket cable for it as well. Maybe further down the line, I'll get an aluminum case for it too, but that's super expensive compared to the mods I already have planned for it.

Sooo last night this keyboard had a pricing error and came out to $9 after the promo code applied to it. I ordered 3 of them just because they were cheap. Assuming they ship out, I really want to get some MX Clears and stick that on one of the boards to hold me over until I can mod my Quickfire Stealth (this has hotswap compatibility built into the board already). Really hoping that it goes through, but I will know by the end of the day today since I was eligible for free 1 day shipping.

I'm looking at getting my first mechanical keyboard ever. I think I'm leaning towards brown switches, since I game and type, but may consider red. I like the k95 rgb because the macro switches on the left seem useful to have. Something to keep in mind though is that this is for a hackintosh, so chances are high that a lot of the fancy keys won't work for the mac part. Consequently, I love the silver brush, white key look such as this: https://smile.amazon.com/EagleTec-KG011-Industrial-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B015MQH59A/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486422772&sr=8-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

I'd prefer something with pretty standard keycaps if I wanted to go the customization route. Any recommendations based off of all this criteria?

Everybody have their own preference, but cherry mx red is my first mechanical keyboard switch that I use. I used specifically it for 2 years, then when I try brown out, I don't like it. Brown feels like a dirty red to me--red with slight bump, so slight I'm not sure why the bump is there in the first place.

But for you, someone who's used with brown, red might feels different. Definitely let me know when you tried red out, I'm curious of your reaction :D

So I have magicforce 68 gateron red, I bought it from amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E57PXKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly I hate it. Not because it's bad, but because right now I'm too used on having a heavier keyboard as I have aluminium plate, aluminium case, etc. The magicforce build is solid but it is still plastic. I'm assuming your logitech g710 is a solid plastic too so I don't think you'll have problem adjusting with magicforce.

The gateron red in magicforce is uniform, stable, and responsive. It's amazing for gaming in my experience when I played dota 2 with it.

I'm looking for a keyboard to replace my beloved Zippy WK-730 that I'm using at work. It's going on three years old now and starting to feel a little mushy.

I like the size of it; it doesn't take up too much space on my desk. I use a slim wrist rest with it, so I'm not married to the depth of it (although I really like how thin it is, aesthetically, I guess it's actually a hindrance to function).

After doing some cursory research, it would appear I have two choices in the mechanical keyboard space: Cherry MX Clear/Brown or Topre switches.

I'm pretty much looking at the CM Storm TK with Cherry Brown switches or the Topre Type Heaven.

I like my Zippy, other than the mushiness, and I use a wired Apple board at home. Should I even be considering these two mechboards or should I be barking up a different tree?

Has anyone here moved from a nice scissor like the Zippy or Apple slim keyboards to a mechanical and absolutely loved it? Conversely, has anyone made the jump and regretted it?

I just put o-rings on my alphanumerics on MX Clears and I'm enjoying it. It does actually make what I already feel is a quiet keyboard quieter, which was some of my goal. I also feel like it somehow made my typing a little more accurate, but that's likely just in my head. It definitely changed the way the keys feel a little bit, they have a bit of a "tighter" feel for lack of a better word (I'm sure there's someone more fluent in keyboard that can better attest to o-rings on Clears). Personally, I like the change a lot as I almost feel like it makes the keys heavier and the presses more defined. I might change my mind and go without; I've only been using them for 2 days so far.

For anyone considering, honestly, pick some up for $2 with Prime shipping and just try it out for a bit. Worst case scenario you're out of $2 and then you have a vehement negative opinion that you can later share in threads like this, woo!

If you want a good first, without much of a learning curve (meaning the loss of the ten key, or arrows), I'd suggest the Magic Force. It's less than $100 and comes with Gateron Brown Switches which are a favorite among a lot of people here. Yea, it's missing the ten key, but has the arrows.


If you want something with a ten key, the prices begin to skyrocket. You'll be spending about $150-$200 for a pretty standard full size board with Cherry/Gateron switches. There are full size boards with "better" switches, but the price goes up even more.


My personal favorites are the 60% boards, which have no ten key or arrows. Of course you can easily program these keys as a function layer on top of other keys, but to each their own. You'll find countless boards of this type, and a lower cost option is the Poker. The one I linked is the New Poker 2, which is USB C powered.


The last option is to build your own, which CAN be cheaper than buying a pre-built board. The main cost here comes with the key caps themselves.


I like to buy parts from US companies, mainly for shipping reasons. So check the following for the hardware needed to build a board. Be aware that some soldering tools/experience is required.


www.1upkeyboards.com

www.novelkeys.xyz

www.mechanicalkeyboards.com

www.switchtop.com

www.flashquark.com


If buying overseas is your thing, and you enjoy the 3 weeks or more shipping times, check the following. By the way, there are more sites in this category, I just don't know them all:


www.aliexpress.com

www.kdbfans.com

You might want to consider just getting a board and buy the keycaps separate. Plus with RGB you will have trouble finding any switches other than the standard red/blue/brown.

Full size is not as common because a lot of people realize that they don't actually use the number pad very much, but either way make sure to take notes of the sizes of the mods, spacebar etc. Some of the gaming brands like Razor/Corsair/Logitech have non standard bottom rows which may not be included in aftermarket keycap sets.

You can also consider the GMMK full size - it's full size with standard layout, RGB, and comes with gateron brown switches. Gat browns have a slightly better bump than cherry. Even better, this board will let you change the switches out, so if you want to try clear or zealios or blacks or whatever, you just need to buy the switches.

I think it's white only. You could paint it ;)

When I was shopping for a work board, I was looking for brown switches and trying to stay cheap. My choices came down to the Magicforce and this Velocifire. I already had Outemu browns on my first mech, and really wanted to try Gaterons after seeing everyone say they're appreciably smoother (they really are), so I went for the Magicforce. Options are a little more open in the cheaper boards if you like blue switches, but then that depends on your budget. There's a CoolerMaster on that list now with PBT keycaps, which might make it a really sweet deal if it's in your price range and you like the way it looks. I feel like I'm opening the wormhole now^please^stop^me^help

It might be easiest to start narrowing it down by switch type first, then aesthetics, staying in whatever your price range is.

Hey guys! So I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard that'll be used primarily for gaming on a new blue themed build. I feel like cherry red switches would probably be the best, but every keyboard I find that has cherry reds has a red trim.
I'm looking to:

Spend less than 150

Buy directly from amazon.com, as in " ships and sold by amazon.com"

Have a backlight feature on the keyboard

I don't particularly care about the number pad, or anything besides it having a blue backlight feature and being relatively well built. I was thinking of this keyboard: http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1398117074&sr=1-2&keywords=backlit+mechanical+keyboard

I'd love to here some opinions. Thanks guys!

You can buy it without switches, and buy Cherry Blues elsewhere if you really want them (far more expensive, mind), and just pop them in. The nice thing about the GMMK is that switches can be replaced almost as easily as keycaps.

But, is this your first mech? Don't believe the 'GENUINE CHERRY MX' hype, they're not any better than their competitors at this point.

Gateron Blues are a direct clone of Cherry Blues that feel nearly identical, and are on the same quality level, for far cheaper.

That said, I think I'd recommend the IKBC F87 unless the ability to swap switches really appeals, it's well built, RGB, has great hard wearing keycaps, Cherry switches, and just squeaks in at the top of your budget. One of the cheapest solid RGB boards out there.

awesome. thanks so much for all of your help! i think this is the last question i had. going to wait a couple days and then start ordering parts:

• 60%, layout, underglow, white LEDs, holtites, QMK
  
  
• ORG60: $22
  
  
• Aluminum case and plate: $68
  
  
• Genuine Cherry stabs: $10
  
  
• Kailh Box Red or Heavy Yellows: 21
  
  
• White LEDs: $6
  
  
• Holtites: $30. Opting for these over KBDfans' offerings
  
  
• DSA PBT keycaps: $57
  
  
• Soldering kit: $18
  
  
• Total: $230ish
  
  Soldering kit has 5 levels and will be used to solder LEDs and to help fit holtites in.

Magicforce 68. They're $40-70 on Amazon. $40 for nonbacklit, $70 for backlit. Last I checked, reds weren't in stock but blues were and they're pretty nice for the price. I love mine. I use it at home sometimes for gaming.

Edit: They have one gateron red backlit left in stock.

Joining the MK culture for the first time...

Went to Best Buy and checked out the 3 offerings there (Razer Greens = Cherry Blues?; Logitech's Romer-G's, and Corsair's Cherry Red's).

Definitely liked the tactile feedback of the Greens more than the linear of the Reds / Romers. Would prefer quieter, though, so I assume Cherry Brown's are the way to go.

Reading through this page, sounds like MasterKeys is a solid manufacturer.

So, would y'all recommend Master Key Cherry Brown ?

You probably won't get original Cherry MX switches and RGB for this price, so here 2 boards with what r/mk deems decent clones. Both of these are branded E-Element, they come with clicky blues and are compatible with pretty much all custom keycap sets made for Cherry MX:

1. If you don't care for the color orange you can get the absolute cheapest RGB keyboard available now as far as I know, the E-Element Z-88 with Outemu clone blue switches (louder than their Cherry MX counterparts) which is on amazon for $52. Every key on it can be set to any of these 7 colors: Red, Yellow, Lime Green, Light Blue, Dark Blue, and Magenta, but that's it. No true RGB.
   
   
2. If you want true RGB and like "floating keys" (visible switches from underneath the keycaps), the E-Element RGB keyboard with Outemu clone switches would probably be right for you.
   
   You can get it in black for $66 from amazon,
   
   or in silver for $80 from mechanicalkeyboards.com.
   
   Massdrop seems to have a weird version of it with ALPS stems on the switches, which means that only ALPS keysets will be compatible with it.
   
   Here are some gorgeous photos of it with a set of custom keycaps, also some discussion about the switches in the comments.

I had a Pok3r and loved the compactness of it, but the MX Clears I had wore on me pretty quickly. I built a GH60 Satan, that I loved more because of the Zealios (aside from the shitty knock off stabilizers I had) but I noticed that I missed my numpad. The numpad and as compact as possible is why I am so excited about the Kira. And I just like the aesthetics of a board with everything run together like 96keys as opposed to something like the Masterkeys Pro M that still has slight gaps between the Alphas and the F-row and 10key or an 1800/FC980 style layout that has the arrows offset.

TLDR: No instructions came with the DIY kit, which is probably fine for the most part, but I had no idea wtf i was doing, so I wanted to post some info in case others were running into the same lack of how-to information when it came to simple stuff like "which wires do I solder to the usb-a/usb-c/aviator (gx16-4) connector?" or even "How to fish the cable through the paracord/techflex sleeving?" Also to see if any assumptions i made were wrong before I plug this into the Massdrop ALT keyboard that's en route.

​

Prior to attemping this, I haven't done anything electrical related anything, didn't own any of the tools other than a set of wire cutters and I basically didn't know what search terms to even search for.. so keep that in mind when reading. Also, ZapCables weren't taking orders when I wanted to make an order, so I figured "how hard could it be for a newb?" Wrong.

​

Things I still don't know:

- [solved: it works!] I'm not sure if my cable actually works because I don't own any USB-C devices other than a power bank that has a USB-C connection. I plugged it in to an ac adapter connected to the wall then connected it to the power bank and it turned on AND the cable didn't melt (hooray), so I assume power is working.

- I have no idea how to test if the rest of it works. I realized after I pieced this all together I probably could have tested the connections somehow, but I really don't want to dismantle this thing now. I'm planning to just plug it in to the ALT when it arrives and do a rain dance in the hopes that everything works.

​

Assembly Steps

​

Step 1: I bought a cheap soldering kit off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and hoped for the best.

​

Step 2: Stripping the usb cable and incredibly tiny wires inside

- Wire Cutters/wire stripping tool: this worked fine for the USB cable casing, but not for the wires inside. For the inner wires, it only worked 50% of the time because I couldn't get the feel right and kept cutting the strands of the wires when peeling them off. I bought a wire stripping tool and the one i got didn't work as the wires were too small. SIGH.

​

- Soldering iron: i saw some people just melt the casing off, and this kind of worked, but because the already tiny ass wires were stranded (had even more impossibly thin wires inside), the plastic melted between the strands and it took just as long to clean it off before tinning the wire.

​

- What worked for me: I ended up figuring out I could use the soldering iron to melt the plastic away to create a notch where I wanted to start stripping the wire away. Once I melted around the wire, I used my fingers and pulled the plastic off, and the underlying strands of wire were clean and in tact.

​

Step 3: Tinning the stripped wires

- What worked for me: I set the soldering heat on the soldering iron to be around 350deg or a little less as I found any higher and the solder would burn and disappear before I could get it on the wires. I took the tweezers and twisted the strands so they would not come apart when applying heat. Then I heated up the twisted wire with the soldering iron and put the solder on it and moved it all around. Seemed to work.

​

Step 4: Soldering tinned wires to the connector USB-A connector

- I have no idea if I did this correctly. Even though the packaging for USB-A had the wires in order GND, D+, D- and VCC marked, it wasn't clear to me which orientation to have the connector so that the label made sense. I assumed if your wires are on the left, and the connector is on the right, then the top connection point on the USB-A connector was GND. The connection points weren't labeled sooooo I hoped for the best. Once that was done, i assembled the rest of the connector's metal casing. To solder, I added heat to the tinned wire and it connected. I was paranoid about having the solder spread to the other connection points (the USB-C connector has no barriers unlike the A) so i didn't add extra on top.

​

Step 5: Fishing the cable through the paracord/TechFlex

- There's some videos of how to do this for the paracord on youtube, but I couldn't find a way to hack it and make it faster, so i pushed it through one aggravating inch at at time. The Techflex was easy because.. well it can flex.

​

Step 6: Soldering the male side of the Aviator/GX16-4 to your USB cable

- I don't think it matters if you choose male or female part of the connector. I chose the male side because it was easiest to detach the cover (just unscrew it) and expose the solder points. First I threaded the cable through the heat shrink to the USB-A connector. You don't have to do this but I found not all of the heat shrink pieces I got could fit over the connector. Next, I threaded the USB-Cable with the paracord/techflex through cover that was just unscrewed and left it on the cable. Looking at the male GX16-4 solder points, they are labeled 1-4, and I chose the soldering points 1:GND, 2:D+, 3:D-, 4:VCC. You'll do the same for the female connector.

​

Special note: I emailed ZapCables because I was initially confused AF when I saw the GX16 connector and had no idea what to do. John promptly replied with the tip about the labels. Thanks John! He also mentioned they might be making their own tutorial which I think they should do because I found this hard given I don't have any experience doing this.

​

When the soldering was done, I connected the GX16-4 cover back to the male connector. Be sure not to twist the cable while you're re-attaching. I ended up tearing the wires off from over-twisting and proceeded to die inside when I realized I had to do it all over.

​

At this point, you have half the cable and it's pretty much the same for the other half EXCEPT that for the female GX16-4 cable, detaching the cover to expose the solder points requires you have an small screw driver to unscrew yet another miniscule screw. The set of tiny screw drivers I use for my glasses/computers was not small enough, I was able to find one that worked in a random set i had in the garage. The size was not marked, so I have no idea what to tell you guys :( If you manage to get it off, twise the cover 1/4 rotation to the left and then pull.

​

Step 7: Do steps 2-6 for the other side of the cable + female GX16-4 connector

​

If you decide to go this route and you also have no idea what you're doing, I suggest you definitely order a little more length for the usb cable/paracord/techflex. I got a 4ft cable, and in the end, with connectors on and all, i'm 3-4 inches short of 4ft because of all the mistakes I made.

​

I hope this helps someone who wants a nice cable but can't be bothered to wait.. but can be bothered to be frustrated by the assembly process.

​

*Edit: grammar/spelling*

​

EDIT: Update on the cable, some of the parts that i soldered between the cable did not have a good connection, bending the wire ever so slightly would cause the keyboard to connect/disconnect, so i probably have to redo the connections to the male/female gx16-4 connectors.

​

EDIT2: After a quick email to ZapCables, John mentioned that i had too much exposed wire that was touching (near solder points) and suggested I resolder with less exposed wire to prevent this from happening. Rather than do that and figure out how to desolder, I took some electrical tape and wrapped any exposed wire connecting at the solder points to the USB-A/USB-C/GX16-4 connector. Happy to say, it's all working and I am now successfully using this cable. 5/5 for ZapCables and John for help.

Coworker convinced me to switch, but for the time being I'm quite poor (eventually I plan to get nice custom keycaps and such). I'm feeling a tenkeyless 60% because I don't like having buttons I don't use. Here are a few of the budget keyboards I've been looking at:


Velocifire compact tiny itty bitty mini thing for $30: I'd prefer reds/blacks to browns, but the noise still shouldn't be too bad from this.


E-Element Z-88 for $45: The RGB looks a little ugly, but maybe it's just the pictures. Excited about the reds, but ideally I'd like it cheaper (I know this is already dirt cheap, but maybe cheaper is possible?). Also, would definitely replace the caps.


Tecware Phantom for $45: I can't tell for sure whether this comes with outemu reds or blues, but if reds, yay. This also seems to be easier than usual to customize later.


I'm not sure what brands are and are not trustworthy in the mechanical world, or if there's anything about any of these that I overlooked.

I've never soldered before, but I was embarrassed by how ridiculously easy it is. I still practiced on a $10 kit first.

Soldering kit

Tip cleaner

Thin solder wire

Solder wick optional, but way easier than a vacuum for a beginner.

Practice kit optional but nice for initial confidence boosting

Hi there, fellow programmer here. I use a pok3r in the office daily with mx clears, a heavier switch.

They're pretty slick, comes with a metal plate and a metal case, if you're going with no backlighting the PBT caps on this are nice. On the default layer media controlls are q,w,e (back, play/pause, next) with volume controls being s,d,f (lower, raise, mute)
I like the layout of this because I have caps lock mapped to a function key so I don't have to move far from home to use arrows (i, j, k, l) or page up/down (u, o)
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1238

If you're looking for bluetooth and willing to give up metal (bluetooth likes plastic, metal case basically acts like a faraday cage n all) the anne pro is good. Comes with PBT caps
https://www.banggood.com/APP-Control-Anne-PRO-Blue-Red-Switch-RGB-Bluetooth-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-p-1064055.html

If you want dedicated arrows might want to look at magiforce 68s (they look low on stock though)
https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PT4A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494307595&sr=8-5&keywords=magicforce+68

OR leopold f660c comes with PBT caps
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1496

Most of what I put on here are mx browns, in case you like a tactile bump but don't want a audible click that'll disturb neighbors (cube farm life). You'll probably want to ask yourself what kind of switch you'll want. I used to use reds at work but I kept bottoming out due to my heavy typing, so I opted for mx clears. Feel free to ask follow up questions if you'd like I just tossed a bunch at you but I was in your shoes a few months ago.

I'm currently looking for a full-sized mechanical keyboard with brown (preferably cherry) switches and either blue or rgb lighting. After looking around for a while it seems that the corsair k70 rgb would probably be the best I could buy, however this is an expensive keyboard and I would like something cheaper if possible. Can anyone recommend a keyboard that meets my requirements for a more reasonable price?

Also, I found this keyboard while looking around on amazon, it offers knockoff brown switches and blue lighting for a fraction of the cost of other options.

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484552878&sr=1-3&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+brown

The thing I'm worried about if the quality, I'd like to know what anyone thinks about this keyboard and if it's worth it.

Thanks.

Hello guys looking for reference which is better from these 2 keyboards or if I should opt for another option. I took the redragon as an option because someone told me that its cheaper than the glorious and offers the same.

Redragon k556 devarajas


Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard


Thanks

For those that can't tell, this is the Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro M (white LEDs, Cherry MX Browns). Loving it so far! A little bit of an adjustment coming from the Blues I'm used to at home, but certainly more quite. Also, it's odd that the NumPad integrates the arrow keys and other function keys to save space, but I'm sure I can get used to that. At least I don't have to use a membrane keyboard :)

Edit: Oh, and the mouse is an MX Master from Logitech, in case people are wondering. Although, this isn't a mouse related community...

Yeah. I was THOROUGHLY enthused about finding it for that price. Honestly, it was three bucks and some change.

That's pretty cool. Not to take away from people that could be donated to, but I really wish I had access to electronic recycling centers. I would come away with A LOT of stuff. Hell, I'd even give them money for it, that way they wouldn't have to worry about actually going through with recycling the stuff, I could give it a new, loving home, and they would have more money to dedicate to their cause.

To answer your question, I'm not really sure. I've never used an IC puller to remove key caps. Ive either used a ring puller (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mechanical-ABS-Keyboard-Keycap-Puller-for-Cherry-MX-Switch-Keyboards-Key-Cap/141860342492?rt=nc&_soffid=5010560901&_soffType=OrderSubTotalOffer&_trksid=p5731.m3795) or a wire puller (http://www.amazon.com/WASD-Keyboards-Wire-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00AZCGF7K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463328669&sr=8-1&keywords=wasd+wire+keycap+puller+tool) to remove the keycaps. Both are cheap options. I would HEAVILY recommend the wire keycap puller for ALPS and buckling spring (i.e. old IBM or Unicomp keyboards), as they're MUCH harder to remove. I'd still use the wire puller for Cherry (or Cherry-based clone) switches, as the plastic ring pullers break VERY easily. I've torn quite a few up removing ALPS caps in the past, as it was all I had available at the time.

My daily driver rubber dome keyboard is on its way out, and I figured I'd get into mechanical keyboards for the "can use it for home defense" factor. Also because it'll last a while.

I already know I want brown switches as my computer is in my bedroom and my wife will divorce me if I get clicky keys.

I really don't want to abandon the convenience of macro keys, but it seems that the only keyboard under $200 with macro keys is the logitech g 710. I'll probably go for it if I don't find anything better. Also considering this keyboard, due to budget constraints. I'd also like to have volume controls on the keyboard. Any recommendations? Preferably under $100, but I'll take up to $150 if they've got good macro key options, like the g710.

Also, I'd like one with the numpad, but I can live without it.

I looked at the 80% ones and would like something like the Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro M.

• compact 80% with the numberpad
  
• quiet keys like brown switches with o-rings
  
• no desire for RGB, but white leds are enough
  
• under $150
  
  Any recommendations would be lovely! thank you.

Got the keyboard for about $40 here. Keycaps are from Mechanical Keyboards here.

They feel a lot heavier than I'm used to. My main board at home is a CM Masterkeys Pro TKL with ABS (I think?) keycaps. These almost feel too light now, but the PBTs feel a little too heavy and coarse.

If you're looking for a cheap full, real mechanical board, the one I got for work is a solid option. Brown switches. Feels pretty great. Has a dim blue backlighting.

I'm very interested in getting a new mech as my first mech is a Razer Blackwidow. This was before I found out about this sub so I'm still very new and a bit overwhelmed.

I'm currently interested in 75% boards, but with a floating keystyle. I've been researching a lot, looking for one within my price range (~100$). From what I found, the boards that I'm interested in are usually custom builds which I have no idea about. Any suggestions for what I'm looking for?

For reference this board is something that I was thinking about, except I'd like a tenkeyless design.

Another one would be the B.mini R X2 design. But I have no desire or money to jump right into a custom boards. Thanks in advance!

I just got a Redragon K556 off Amazon and couldn't be happier. Full aluminum case (that feels awesome btw). On board memory and completely programmable through the keyboard, but comes with software which I appreciated. Completely modular plug and play switches. Fits any 3 pin cherry mx or knockoff. Tested myself with Cherrys and comes with Outemu browns. You'll have to grab "LED"/"RGB" versions of Gateron or Outemu switches off ebay though if you wan't the LED's to shine through. Cherry doesn't seem to make a shine through switch that I could find. I got these on the way. You'll notice the slit on the bottom that lets the light shine through from behind the switch.

I didn't really want a logo on my board, but at least its a cool looking dragon and not a written name. And for only $60 it left me a lot of extra cash left over for the switches I wanted and ordering some custom caps.

As simple as latching onto the key and then pulling off.

Be more careful with larger keys. While not absolutely necessary for anything but the spacebar, for larger keys you should pull one side at a time. So start with the right side, pull, position the puller to the left side, pull, and then if it still hasn't come out, pull from the middle.

You should also look into buying a wire keycap puller

I'm making an assumption that the one you have is a ring puller and those can potentially scratch your keys. You can also make a wire puller with paper clips and some DIY-ing.

Best way to clean is to just generally be clean around your keyboard. That way there's only dust and no grime. After removing keycaps, ways to get rid of dust are compressed air (and I think some use ESD safe vaccums?) For dust or oils/etc on the keyboard chassis itself, you can use a dry towel.

I submitted this earlier but didn't get a working solution. Thought I'd try again, hoping for a different set of knowing eyes to see this.

I just got this new Z-88 E-Elements RGB waterproof keyboard, I plugged it into my Windows 10 desktop and I only got the windows noise indicating something was just plugged in, and that's it. Keyboard not responsive, no lights. I went into device manager, under "Gaming KB" I updated manually by selecting the USB Input Device. That made all the lights start working, but still no keys are working. Tried USB 2.0 and 3.0. When I update and manually select USB Input Device, it adds several more Unknown Devices. If I try and update and manually select for those as well, it just adds more Unknown Devices. I do NOT see "BodeVibe Vibration Data Processing System," nor "ND-Tech USB Adapter" per other fix-it threads I've found. Plugging it into my laptop, also Win 10, and it works instantly, no driver updates necessary. I also just discovered that the keyboard DOES work in the BIOS, it just doesn't work when windows loads up. Please help!

> only switch better for fps IMO is the Gateron clear

im being a comment necromancer, but im looking at a new keyboard since my deck 82 left shift key finaly broke after 10+ years..

im looking at this with the clear

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PW7Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41vZKXXj2EL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0CHM8XW9FJ4EQBHW58RW

or this with the red

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PXKA?ie=UTF8&keywords=gateron%20red%20switches&qid=1465427592&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8

or maybe this for a bit more for the red
http://www.amazon.com/Rantopad-MXX-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01B7I384S?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&ref_=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1

can you tell me why the clear is your fav?

fyi the deck used black switches.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a really cheap entry into the world of mechs.

I would really like stuff like the EagleTec KG110, but there's no way I can use an ANSI keyboard. So what I need is an extremely cheap, full size keyboard that is available in an ISO layout.

I can't seem to find anything under about $70 at all. I'd love to hear your suggestions.

Edit: This keyboard is pretty much what I want, except that it's not full-sized.

I use the Aoyue 701A+, but a lot of people really like Hakko irons, here, like the FX-888. Honestly, it really depends on how much soldering you're going to be doing. I really don't recommend spending $80+ on an iron if you're only ever going to solder one or two boards, because that's not very good value. A lot of people recommending irons forget that. If you only plan to do a board or two, I'd recommend something with a lot of value, like this. This is what I started on. Nothing special, but a lot of features for this price and it worked fine for my first two boards.

Hey, I'm looking for a board with the following features:

Full-size or 90%
Stiff-ish, tactile, quiet switches. MX Clear or Brown or comparable
Orange or Red or RGB backlighting
As non-gamery as possible
~$50 US
Actually available
Media keys and replaceable switches is a plus, but not strictly necessary
Edit: bigass enter keys need not apply

So far, I'm looking at the following:

Redragon K556. RGB, replaceable (Otemu?) Browns. Looks alright, but I'm not big on the plank-with-keys-on-top style.
Redragon K578. RGB, non-replaceable Browns, has a nice plain look apart from the dorky keycap font and red logo.
Kaihua K16 White LED with Brown Switches. Looks nice but I'd prefer a warm-color LED. "Out of stock. No available estimate." Wonderful.

Anyone have experience these, or other recommendations in the same price range?

I'm currently sporting a Redragon K551, which is long out of warranty and developing key chatter issues in several keys.

I've got several choices for you:

Leopold FC980M: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3565 (a bit over your budget but I think it's a great board); for silent switches you probably want to go with the MX silent reds if linears are your thing and you don't mind paying an extra $5. If not, then anything besides blues should be relatively quiet as well.

Ducky One 2: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3485 Same deal with this one for the switches

Redragon K556: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=redragon+brown&qid=1565287317&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You can turn off the LEDs if that's not your thing. This is the cheapest board, but not too bad. Pretty solid budget choice.

If none of these tickle your fancy lmk and I can find more that fits more closely to your tastes

Ok Cool. I picked up this one for work with brown switches just for fun. I need dat number pad.

Yea, I texted my buddy in the cube next to mine and I'm like, "I found a $34 mechanical keyboard on Amazon. Would it annoy you with 'loud" keys blasting next door to you all day? They are blue switches. You will hear every letter I type on Reddit."

He replied, "Nerd. Has to be super loud."

That's when I order the brown switches.

Any differences between these two sets of white backlit pbt keycaps?

I know ikbc is the brand that produces the vortex products.

https://www.amazon.com/IKBC-Doubleshot-Mechancial-Keyboard-Mechanical/dp/B0779TNTVY/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=white+pbt&qid=1557426652&s=gateway&sr=8-9

​

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1330

​

Are also any of these keycaps 1.5mm thickness?

​

If anyone has another backlit white keycap set for a gmmk compact recommendation, it will be great help!

​

Thanks!

oh lol the ebay link wasn't there for some reason when I originally replied, now I see it clearly says °C on the dial

Anyway, I've heard the one you linked is fine for quick soldering work. It would probably work for you, but that stand is kinda iffy in my opinion. I would prefer a wire stand that encloses the entire iron so that it's a lot harder for it to fall off and burn something. For a cheap-o set, this one seems pretty okay and is cheaper and probably better than the eBay one: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MP976EM3NYM02Y0YG0FM

I got a Tenma 21-10120 soldering station from my local MicroCenter for around $60. It has a digital readout and shows not only the temperature you set but also the actual current temperature of the iron. It didn't come with anything else, though, so I had to also get solder core, desolder pump, solder wick, wire cutters, and for the heck of it a brass tip cleaner. Altogether, my set probably came to just under $100.

Semi-related, always wear eye protection when soldering. I also use nitrile gloves to reduce the risk of lead poisoning. I still wash my hands after solder work, but that's mostly to clean the sweaty feeling off my hands from being in gloves.

It doesn't go on sale too often, but keep your eyes open since holiday season is coming up soon, you can probably find it on sale somewhere.

If you want something cheap and decent, the E-Element Z88 is a pretty alright option. Build quality won't be as good as the CM, and the RGB lighting isn't very programmable, but it's not a bad keyboard for $50.

As has already been said, Magicforce 68 is a good place to start. Gateron brown is a pretty good switch, and definitely the one I would recommend to start on. There are others that are less expensive, but it is a good middle-ground of cost and quality. Comes in white or black.

Hello everyone, I am new to this subreddit, as well as, to mechanical keyboards. I am coming from a laptop keyboard and I recently got a desktop so I want a proper keyboard.

I have four options that I am looking at right now:
KBC Poker 3, Ducky One, Das Keyboard 4C Professional or Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard.

I'm leaning towards a TKL with Cherry MX-Reds(best for gaming it seems), any suggestions or pros/cons on the keyboards that I have above or any others that I might be interested in? I am in the US and my budget is around $150.

I realize the pok3r keyboard doesn't have arrow keys which I am not sure if I can manage. The Glorious is a full size but I figure I could manage since it is easy to customize.

Also, I am not exactly quite sure what type of switch I'm looking for, I am mainly gettting this for gaming so I am not to sure between Cherry mx reds and blacks. I play a lot of League of Legends and Overwatch plus some mmos and hack n slashes. I figure I should stay away from clicky and tactiles since I will be bottoming out a lot (honestly not sure if thats an issue). Since this is my first mechanical keyboard, I don't think I want to increase the stifness too much. Its seems reds would be my go to, but any advice would be much apppreciated!

Ducky Shine 6, Ducky One TKL RGB
Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro S, Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L
iKBC F87, iKBC F108

Not sure if these are the best prices for these keyboards, so if you like one, you might want to search around to see if there are better prices before making a purchase.

EEk. I really can't recommend anything sub $50 on amazon except this but I would much rather go with their Gateron switches which runs $62. For other options, I can recommend this sale. It's not the prettiest, but it's a fantastic board for $20 more that will last you forever. These last two although cost more, would actually have resale value if you wanted to put it on ebay or mechmarket.

Both of these comes in at under $150 CA (after rebate) - but unfortunately with black keys: Cooler Master Masterkey Pro S or Cooler Master Masterkey Pro L.

There is also the Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard. RGB lighting, brown switches, and the switches are completely hot swappable (no soldering), so you can try out other switches if desired. Again only in black keys though.

Both of these perfectly fit you're requirement, but are a bit pricier due to shipping from the US: MK Disco TKL RGB and Ducky One White TKL RGB.

EDIT: All the above have standard key layouts, so you could always get some cheap white keycaps (Aliexpress would be a cheap option to look).

Hi guys im looking for a cheap rgb mechanical brown keyboard, the colors are super important to me and i just wanted to know which of these had the better colors.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492588194&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+brown+switch+keyboard


or


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Global-Marketing-Partners-Excalibur-Spectrum-Brown-Switch-Full-Color-Keyboard/45810387?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1896&adid=22222222227033077827&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=76977009911&wl4=pla-133673071991&wl5=9031154&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134512&wl11=online&wl12=45810387&wl13=&veh=sem
it seems like the greens on the tesoro arent visible

Can someone please explain the differences between This board and the E-Element other than the RGB and the Outemu switches? I see clear housing, which makes me think these could be gaterons, though both brands seem unfamiliar to me. I'm looking for a good second board for work that I can swap gaterons on to, thanks!

Hi! I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard and have been doing a lot of research on this sub. I think I'd like a 75% with cherry brown switches and PBT keys. I love the look of the Vortex Race 3 but I don't really like the keys to the right of enter (I use Mac which doesn't make use of those). I love how the Velocfire TKL78 doesn't have those keys, but I'm not into the whole look of black keyboards or backlit keyboards. Any suggestions for a classic tan kb that's smaller but still has function keys for volume control/media playback?

Here is a pretty cheap keyboard that meets all your criteria:

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MS8YTYX&pd_rd_r=RV3MB4DK578JRYHJWEH2&pd_rd_w=94aiB&pd_rd_wg=ujypr&psc=1&refRID=RV3MB4DK578JRYHJWEH2

I can suggest you other keyboards if you'd like. Also have you considered getting clear switches? Imo I like them more than browns.

I've used these they are pretty good, you can get free 2 day shipping too if you have Amazon Prime. Currently out of stock at the moment though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/

Glad you're liking it! I'm jealous, $3 is a complete steal if it's in good shape. And no worries, it's not a huge deal, it's just better to not take the chance, y'know?

If you'd like to give it a good clean or change the keycaps one day, you can get a wire keycap puller here for very cheap. For ways to clean and maintain your keyboard, check out the wiki for this subreddit and you should be set!

I have a [Velocifire VM01] (https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day-secondary&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499795294&sr=1-1&keywords=mechanical+keyboard) (also on Prime day sale in the US) with OUTEMU browns and it's quite decent, however it is my first mech and I have no experience with higher quality switches, but it was quite the jump with respect to my previous keyboard.

I've been looking for a second smaller keyboard and the Magicforce 68 seems like a good deal, but it's also on Massdrop for $42 with different switches... so I'm not sure which one is best...

Need help:

Redragon K552 vs Velocifire TKL01

I just want a decent cheap mech keyboard for mostly gaming but good typing would be nice as well. Redragon costs a bit more so I'm leaning towards the Velocifire one. Is there anything I'm missing?

Take a look at this one, I'm using it right now at work. Its no frills, but has genuine cherry switches, nice minimal design, and standard layout.

Rosewill RK-9000

I got browns because I'm using it at the office. Blues are the way to go if this is for a home setup, light enough to not tire your fingers during long gaming sessions, but with great tactility that makes typing a lot nicer. Disclaimer, blues will annoy girlfriends/wives cause they are a lil loud.

Can always try e-bay. Or bite the bullet and go for a different switch. Hard to find red switches for under $50 (but if you've got another $10 to spend, you can find them easily). I bought this bad boy for $26 on Amazon. It's got Outemu browns and it feels amazing. Really loving this keyboard. I have a Magicforce 68 for work ($40) as well and that also is a very capable keyboard.

Coming in late but here's my entry. Got your arrow keys too.

Mechanical Keyboard Gaming Keyboard GATERON Brown Switch Wired Backlit Mechanical 68 Kyes Keyboard White Silver Magicforce by Qisan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E57PT4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8-owxbGF5Q6GA

Gateron Browns are really a huge upgrade to Cherry MX Browns. Their tactile bump is much more noticeable and the actuation is noticeable smoother.

Purchased one a few weeks ago and loved it.

What do you guys think of this cheaper board?

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Doubleshot-Velocifire-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_3/145-0838380-3957206?ie=UTF8&qid=1504016692&sr=8-3&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+brown

Was interested in something simple, inexpensive, and brown. I'm a mech newbie and this will be my first Mech keyboard (minus the nice old ones I used growing up). Seems to have good reviews and I've read the Outemu switches are decent for the money?

The first keyboard I got was a Qisan Magicforce. It's cheap, yet surprisingly good quality (if you get the Gateron brand switches). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E57PT4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I actually have one with brown switches that I would be willing to part with, since I now only use my Planck and Atreus. A new one only runs around $63 on Amazon though.

Responding to your desire for wireless, I believe the AnnePro comes with Bluetooth. It can be had for sub-$100 also, I believe on certain sites. It's a quality board also.

I think this is a great option, I think I passed by it before because of the lack of num-pad. It's not entirely a deal breaker but it would be nice.

What about this one? it looks comparable, and I think it is also standard layout so it should be easy to customize.

https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1480182710&sr=1-2&keywords=cooler+master&refinements=p_lbr_brands_browse-bin%3ACooler+Master

It's basically the same price, but it includes a numpad. It doesn't have the arrow keys and numbers active at the same time so it's not perfect but its somewhere in between.

I suggest the EagleTec Z-77. Not only is it aluminum body, it has replaceable switches which does not require soldering. IMO, it is the best first mechanical keyboard you can buy, and the best part, it only costs 27 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1N6N3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

The whitefox is fantastic. Really a phenomenal board. They're a bit difficult to track down and buy. The TADA68 is cheaper and there's also the redscarf 68. If you're looking at something you can buy and just get in the mail, the Magicforce 68 is a great entry to this world. Good board. Affordable. On amazon prime! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E57PT4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i8huybV3X804M

I recommend gateron brown over cherry brown fwiw. A very minor difference but it's a better switch.

Thanks, I had no idea they existed. This was the only keyboard I could find with them https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PT4A/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465596836&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=Gatreon but it's on Amazon so it's not really feasible to buy in Australia unless I want to wait a couple of months or spend a huge amount on shipping. I'm not too worried about the keys necessarily being smooth but just as long as I'm able to type really fast with minimal mistakes like I used to on my old membrane keyboard a few years ago. It's of course going to take time to get back up to that point on any new keyboard but I have given MX Browns and Reds a fair run for the 3+ years I've used them.

As others have said, yep, you can pop off a cap and replace it with another.

I highly recommend getting a wire keypuller to do this with, it will make your life easier. Something like this for reference: https://www.amazon.com/WASD-Keyboards-Wire-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00AZCGF7K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482727479&sr=8-1&keywords=key+puller

While it isn't possible to replace the switches without soldering, the solder job is a lot simpler than it seems. Just watch a good tutorial and get a decent 20 dollar solder kit off amazon and you'll be set. It's a good skill to learn. This solder set is amazing and actually comes with a solder sucker which you need to replace a switch anyways. I've used it hundreds of times and it's held up very well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5pV3Bb60EXNJ0

Switches: If you're leaning towards Cherry MX switches but are still unsure of which ones you prefer, you can get a switch tester that includes red, black, brown, clear, blue, and green switches, as well as O-rings.

No matter which of switch you choose, it will still produce some noise, due to the key caps bottoming out. If you prefer a long-term keyboard with switches that produce tactile feedback, such as browns, blues, greens, etc., but are worried about the noise, you can get O-rings like these.

Which switch? I also code for lengthy periods of time and would prefer typing with something that produces tactile feedback, like either browns or blues. But since you have roommates, maybe browns would be better... unless they don't mind the click-clack noise, then get the blues since they're more satisfactory to type with. Heavy typer? Maybe you'll prefer greens since they require more force.

Keyboards: Of the keyboards you've narrowed down to, the Das or K70 are good. There're also the non-RGB K70s with single color LEDs that are cheaper than the ones with RGBs and come in red and brown switches.

I've owned the K70s with red LEDs and red switches and currently own the Ducky Minis with green switches. The LEDs on my K70 lasted throughout the time I've used it (< 2 years), but a friend's K70 had some that stopped working several months after use :/ I eventually sold the K70 and prefer green switches and a 60% mechKB since it's more portable.

It's a good board, nothing fancy but it works well, I don't really like flashy, showy things anyways.

Both of mine have MX Clear switches and the original has o-rings and PBT blacked out caps.

Rosewill RK-9000V2

Ducky Zero

Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard

Qisan Fullsize Keyboard

Bonus: CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro M (White LEDs) has a wonderful layout, including a numpad.

ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nWIuDbBKN0ZKR

It's a best seller on Amazon. It has an on and off switch on the cord as well as a simple temp control knob that seems to work pretty well. It comes with kinda crappy solder. I would pick up some 60/40 solder (my preference).

Hello everyone. I currently have a Plugable 104 key keyboard. I have been using under a year now and I love it. I was thinking about bring this one to work but would need a new one at home currently. Why I wouldn't mind just buying another plugable I was looking for some input with trying to find another keyboard.

I was looking for get another full sized (having a number pad) mech board preferably under $100 if possible that is white and has some back light to it as I my desk is in a slightly darker part of my house. I know an odd request looking for a white one, but was mainly to match the build on my computer.

I was looking at something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MQH59A/?coliid=I2ELKTBNLDR5YA&colid=6Q6OEUDWH2ZK&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it#customerReviews because it didn't have all crazy RBG back light and had a white color to it and the reviews some decent. If anyone has any input / recommendations, I would greatly appreciate it.

Quickfire tk is an option but be aware of weird key sizes so the space bar is in replaceable except with the max keyboard black translucent set and the bottom modifiers are harder to find but if u like the look its a great keyboard http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10

Most of these folks are right- blues are pretty noisy even with O-rings, but I will say that O-rings WILL quiet it down a bit. The bottoming out sound of the keycap is quite a bit louder than the actual switch actuating. A user here referred me to some cheap o-rings here that I quite like and would recommend, but it looks like they're not available at the moment. :/

Next time, please refer to the sticky! Here's the link. You should be able to find the information you need there.

But for less than $50, you can't build a board with that unfortunately. However there are a few boards out there that are pretty cheap such as Velocifire, or something like Techware Phantom. I've only ever heard good things about both of those companies/boards.

Don't forget those two keyboards Deck Francium , [IKC F87] (https://www.amazon.com/Double-Shot-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-K6D73S411003/dp/B01LYV47MV)

Probably the best keyboards available if you want a nice keyboard with stock PBT keycaps under 120$

I am interested in getting the CM storm quickfire with brown switches

I have never had a mechanical keyboard before, is this one solid as a starter? I can't go too expensive. What are the pros and cons of this size keyboard vs a smaller keyboard. Also how do I figure out what size keys they are if I ever wanted to buy some custom keys?

Thank you for your help

EDIT: I am a college student who also plays a decent amount of League of Legends and Counter-Strike. So I need to be able to type but also want to game... Are these the right switches for me?

Also I just have a laptop... Is it plausible to just put the new keyboard on top of my laptops?

Ok sounds like Brown switches may be the ticket.

I have this and like it:

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B071W16NVZ

Plenty of Amazon money leftover to make it prettier:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Keycaps-Profile-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B072JTJ458

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXW6QD6

Https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Double-shot-Mechanical-Keyboard-Gradient/dp/B06XDSHK3M

Checked dozens (perhaps over 100 keyboards available, even nonCherry brown equivalents.

You can get a brown keyboard for $80, barely. Rosewill 9000V2 is available in brown right at $80 on Amazon. No backlight, no macro.

You can get backlight if you go with Kailh Browns. Tesoro and such make Kailh Brown gaming boards for about $70 on Amazon. No macro.

You can get macro, and backlight, but no mechanical, by getting "gaming keyboards". Corsair and Logitech have macro capable membrane keyboards for about $30-40.

If you MUST have macro, your best bet is Logitech G710+, $100 on Amazon. Everything you asked for... macro, backlight, cherry brown switch.

A buddy of mine has one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493813794&sr=8-4&keywords=redragon+rgb

For the price it is pretty sweet. The bottom is plastic, so its not all aluminum. Minimal bezel and brown switches. They also have a TKL variant as well somewhere.

With a cap remover Something like this. It should be pretty painless. If you want to completely remove the click of a click switch i would look into the the jailhouse blue mod.

You can get an F87 or F108 for just over $100, which is going to be your cheapest high quality RGB option.


If you want non-backlight the Ducky One 2 is definitely one of the best options, though as others said you can probably snag a Leopold or Varmillo around $120, which will be another step up in build quality.

If you really want to learn, pick up a small kit like this, like 7 to 10 switches, and like 10 of any kind of keycap, and finally grab a soldering iron.


All that is around $50 total, and places like keeb.io have really detailed guides on how to assemble their PCBs. It's really not hard once you understand what to get, and once you've built even a small macro pad like that, you'll be able to build even hand wired keyboards no problem. They're really simple once you learn the basics! It's pretty much just legos, but really tiny and using a hot stick.

I ordered a $10 soldering iron off amazon, and some sauter, and it worked perfectly fine.

Iron
Sauter

Thanks for the suggestions.

I was looking on Amazon and found these two Magicforce keyboards. I tried combining your suggestions with the other user's suggestion for Gateron switches:

• Full size
  
• 60%
  
  Would you recommend these? They seem much cheaper than my previous one. Should I be concerned?

Hey guys, I'm looking to order my first mech, and I was wondering if anybody has any insight onto which of these three boards is the best bang for the buck. (Yes, I really want a full sized white board with white caps, if it wasn't painfully obvious, lol.)

1
2
3

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PUNA/
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PT4A/

Your choice of those plus a cheapish set of PBT keycaps is probably your best bet. Tai-Hao has a nice selection of designs without being gamer-y.

iKBC is a great option. Comes in an aluminum body and a plastic. Coolermaster Masterkeys is always a good option too.

Edit: I guess you could also go semi custom and get the KBD75, KBDfans offers an assembly service also.

I have a decision to make about repairing or replacing a keyboard. My brown-switch Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid's y key has become completely unresponsive, and trying to clean the switch stem with compressed air hasn't fixed the problem at all, nor has the usual stuff like unplugging and re-plugging the keyboard. It's closer to three years old than two years old at this point, so it's past warranty. And apparently on the Quickfire Rapid, even something like opening up the switch housing to deep clean it requires desoldering it.

I've got a PC repair shop in town that can replace a switch for starting at $25 (he quoted $25-$50, with the upper end being in case of Surprise). It's a nice keyboard and that'd be like 1/3 the cost of replacing it with the same model, and the price point is low enough to excuse not just buying tools and new switches and trying to do the soldering work myself. So I'm seriously considering taking it in for repair. Alternately, however, I could apparently buy a cheap off-brand keyboard with knockoff browns for a very similar price point, and that would spare me the risk of the repair cost running high, as well as spare me the other maintenance I really need to get around to like doing a proper cleaning and probably lubing the stabilizers (bonus upside: the cheap knockoff I'm looking at has Cherry-style stabilizers instead of those PITA Filco ones). On the downside, being a knockoff, apparently there are uncommon cases where people have had issues with keys becoming unresponsive, but I've learned the hard way that buying on-brand doesn't completely prevent that either.

Any advice on whether it's better to repair a pushing three-year-old Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid, or to start over with a new off-brand, if the cost of both is very similar and cheap enough that buying soldering tools/supplies and replacement switches to DIY probably wouldn't be cheaper?

If you live alone or with people that don't mind noise, you can try a Tomoko or MagicForce with blue switches. It's usually better to go with blue for cheap ones, because the sharp TICK they create usually covers up any scratchy or gritty feeling a quieter key might have.

No frills Tomoko for $35 that I've been typing on for half a year, works well so far. Can be very loud though.

Magicforce 68 is a compact budget board highly recommended by a lot of mech key fans. You can get a full-size with num-pad and Gateron switches for $70 or with Cherry for more.

Velocifire is a brand I know far less about, but they sell a full-size brown switch board with over 300 reviews that consist of mostly positive feedback. I have no idea what brand the switches on this one are, they make some other full-size boards with Kailh switches.

Wow thanks for the suggestions, the MASSDROP and the Hexgear ones look amazing, they look like the posts on I see on this subs frontpage. I'm probably leaning towards the GMMK though since it's cheaper than the others while still being hotswappable

Before I pull the trigger though, is there any downside the hotswappable vs non? I read that they don't last as long but I plan on swapping switches once at most if the pre-installed switches are too loud, so not sure if this will be an issue.

Also: most keys caps are compatible with any switches right? so i could re-use the caps that came with?

Going to second giving o-rings a shot, I've got mx browns and some 70A o-rings from Amazon and they definitely quiet it down a lot. They were all of $2, so it's a pretty cheap thing to try. I actually like the stiffer o-rings compared to 50A, I find the softer o-rings leave the keys feeling a bit mushy when bottoming out while gaming.

You may want to consider buying it on Amazon instead. It's $80 instead of $70, but with shipping it pretty much equals out. If you have Amazon Prime, the faster shipping might be preferable.

https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Minimalist/dp/B01D8YNJH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480143436&sr=8-1&keywords=glorious+mechanical+keyboard

There's plenty of good mechs for less than the price of the k55. The E-Element z88 is full size with all the RGB you could want, and a few switch types (also comes in a more compact layout if you want that). If you want cherry switches for whatever reason there's this Gigabyte Board with kinda crummy keycaps but 2 switch options and I've personally been using it for a few months and I like it fine. Point being that there are plenty of mechanical keyboards for less than the $50 dollar price point and those are just the ones I've used (or used their equivalent) so I'm using those for examples.

I want a cheap TKL with gateron clears, is there a way to fit gateron clears into this board with out doing a lot of modification to the switchs pins? https://www.amazon.com/MechanicalEagle-Multicolor-Mechanical-Keyboard-Replaceable/dp/B01I1N6N3U?th=1&psc=1

Or if I put the gateron clear stems and springs into the Outemu switches housing would they feel similar to gateron clears?

If you want something cheaper but still great quality take a look at the Rosewills

Something inexpensive with adjustable temperature will do just fine.

I've had good luck with this one.

It gets confusing fast with the naming scheme E-Element uses.

The E-Element Z-88 could be the 81-key model here or the 104-key model here.

The E-Element Z-77 could be the 87-key model here or the 104-key model here.

I don't know what they were thinking, but these really are great keyboards.

BTW, I think your twins might have different fathers...

I noticed there are some already on special. With the nicer switches.

Gateron Red$55.50

Kailh Black$52.55

Cherry Red$66.38

Cherry Brown$69.99

Closest I could find are these -

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Double-Shot-Copywriter-Programmer/dp/B071W16NVZ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=cheap+keyboard+60%25&qid=1563854276&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

But to be honest, you are better off with a full sized keyboard instead of a 60%. You can always come back to 60% when you save enough money.. My advice is to get a keyboard as cheap as possible to get the job done. a cheap 60% will end up disappointing you more down the road.

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QT0BXXR3WW3FT9HNMF9

^^ Cheap o-rings. O-rings are essentially all the same (quality-wise, they're just little rubber rings lol). But like puppies said, there are varying sizes/thicknesses that you can choose. The above link is for 70A, browse the related products, as the thicknesses can range from like 50A upwards, look for what you like.

Oh that magic force one does look pretty nice. I also found this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I1N6N3U/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519742740&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cheap%2Bmechanical%2Bkeyboard&th=1&psc=1 how would that be?

Howdy guys! I've been stalking this page since I built my first PC in December and now I want to take up my next challenge and really dive into MKs. [Here is that all great board I started with from Amazon.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0QEYR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I really love it but I wanna join the club and perhaps build my own! I have been slowly doing research and checking out outlets here and there, nothing substantial.

Would you guys say building or trying to find find something close to what I am looking for would be better? I'm looking for a 75% set up, White case, black keys, RGB lighting, and brown switches if that's even a realistic build or much less find. My budget would be around $150 USD again if that's possible.

[I found this board that's seemingly nice] (https://www.amazon.com/LexonElec-Keyboard-AK33-Backlit-Mechanical/dp/B079M2YHBS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1537055803&sr=8-9&keywords=75+keyboard) but its black/blue keys with no RGB. Let me know what you guys think.

The E-Element Z88 104 is probably one of the cheapest full RGB mechanical keyboards around.

The Anne Pro is a smaller keyboard but contains much of the functionality of a large keyboard and it's wireless if you want it to be (you can use it wired if you'd like) AND it's on sale on Banggood with coupon code ANNEPRO. Just pick up a cheap Jelly Comb numpad off Amazon afterwards.

Here's a good resource on some entry level mechanical keyboards.

Gotcha. What if I upped my budget and got this one instead? https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93K6/ref=pd_sbs_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01ITE93K6&pd_rd_r=DJWXQJDYD89A1JBE6VDH&pd_rd_w=r3O6a&pd_rd_wg=z4wNz&refRID=DJWXQJDYD89A1JBE6VDH&th=1

Edit: Really appreciate the help btw! Sorry for asking a lotta questions aha

Do I need a specific keycap puller to use on a Topre board (FC660C). I never put keys on a board before, so I was wondering if there's a certain one I should buy? Would I be good with this one from WASD or should I get one from mechanicalkeyboards? Or does it not matter? I just don't want to mess up any of my topre keycaps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E57PXKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wtItzb6TXH7F8 when it comes to switches, some knockoffs are kinda bad due to quality but Gaterons in particular are actually preferred by a lot of people because they were smoother than cherry which apparently has been fixed in newer cherry switches but Gaterons are good quality and cheaper than cherries I believe. But it all comes down to personal preference I guess. I definitely wouldn't dismiss Gateron because they are knock offs

EDIT: a word

As HerpDerpenberg said hotswap is the way to go. You can try out different switches and also replace any damaged ones without the need to take apart the keyboard or solder.

Draken
GMMK Amazon / Main Site

Both are modular full size and good starting points.
GMMK is more popular and has a better case and much more options when buying but the drakken is cheaper.

RedDragon also makes great starter keyboards at low prices if you just want to try a mechanical without investing much. The downside is you are stuck with the switches that come on it unless you want to solder.
EDIT: Some redragon keyboards do come with hotswap. It's worth noting they are only compatible with outemu switches though.

There is a pretty basic soldering kit on amazon that I have been using for the last few months and it has been amazing! Ill link it to you below.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4

Nice haul.

A wire key puller like this works the best: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZCGF7K/

You'll need this tool to open the keyboards up:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ4XP6/

One of the most common things to fail on a Model M are the plastic rivets that are holding the metal back plate and the top plastic barrel plate (that holds the springs and flippers) with the membranes (that's right, the Model M is a membrane keyboard!) sandwiched between them. Keys will feel mushy or not function when enough rivets in the same area fail. The solution is to replace the rivets with either screws or bolts. Here's more info.

The membranes can be very easily damaged by liquid spills, but you can get new ones and replace them. A screw / bolt mod is needed when replacing membranes.

You can do a screw / bolt mod yourself, but as someone else mentioned, Phosphor Glow does excellent work. He also has a replacement USB controller that lets you plug the keyboard directly into a USB port without adapters. If you do send your board(s) to PG, be very patient.

Whats the best keyboard for $120 CAD that can be ordered off amazon.ca or newegg.ca or ncix etc.?

edit: looking at these so far:

https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Storm-QuickFire-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1467729654&sr=8-9&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

https://www.amazon.ca/SteelSeries-6GV2-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B0038X3ZVM/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467729654&sr=8-11&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Storm-QuickFire-Rapid/dp/B007VDKLLM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467641041&sr=8-2&keywords=Cooler+Master+Storm+QuickFire+Rapid

https://www.amazon.ca/Azio-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-MGK1/dp/B00OBA6QYY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1467729964&sr=8-7&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

https://www.amazon.ca/Thermaltake-POSEIDON-Mechanical-Keyboard-KB-PZX-KBBLUS01/dp/B00RQA67YK/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1467730003&sr=8-19&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

Comparison off three TKL keyboards. Which one would you choose?

1. Ducky One TKL RGB (Double Shot ABS Keycaps, detachable non braided cable)
   
   
2. Mastekeys Pro S (Better LED's and lighting overall, ABS keycaps which I'm gonna replace anyway, [If it gets choosen], detachable braided cable)
   
   
3. iKBC F87 RGB (Double Shot PBT Keycaps , non detachable braided cable)
   
   Thank you for you help.

https://www.amazon.com/Double-Shot-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-TenKeyLess/dp/B01LYV47MV?th=1&psc=1

Why not this one? It's a way better board with way better keycaps and comes in white as a TKL. And it's way cheaper.

I asked for advice a while back & purchased the full size (w/10-key) backlight keyboard. It had blue switches. Its too loud for me, other than that, I liked the feel. I'm looking for the same thing, but with browns & in same price range. (I do not game- just have a desk job & type like a fiend)
Is this a good option for me? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQO8D3F/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1499871821&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=full+keyboard+with+10+key+backlit+brown+keys

Or maybe this brand? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0QEYR4/ref=mp_s_a_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1499874990&sr=8-31&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=EagleTec&dpPl=1&dpID=519y8fyYH1L&ref=plSrch


If.not, what would you guys suggest?
(here is the other comment/post I refrenced above:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6ax3cl/rmechanicalkeyboards_ask_any_question_get_an/dhivnma/ )

Edit to add: I prior one I purchased was the Plugable https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MA6O13L/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Rosewill RK-9000V2 is a pretty good keyboard for its price i'd say

It's listed under Qisan on Amazon, but that's the MagicForce 68. There are cheaper versions, down to $40 based on different switches. The brown switches are a good, general switch and Gateron's is smoother than the Cherry MX with a slightly more noticeable bump (using CMX browns at work on an RK9100 and a MF68 @ home w/ Gateron browns). I'd go with Gateron switches for brown ($63) or red/black, Outemu for blue ($40) - depending on what type you want.

If you want a different switch type, you can scroll around at different keyboard options or re-search for MagicForce 68 and look for other options.

Masterkeys Pro S RGB w/ MX Browns or Reds. I know you said that you didn't want RGB, but it's always nice to have the option and you can just set them to white. They are only $100. Another option is the Masterkeys Pro M White which you can find on Amazon or on Massdrop right now.

Magicforce boards are pretty nice, this one is even backlit.

Is it possible to remove the audible click from a keyboards switches? I'm looking at getting the Redragon K556: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1492304422&sr=8-14&keywords=redragon

It has the keypad on the side which is something I was looking for, and the RGB backlight that I can customize. But can I get a bag of O-Rings to dampen the switchers? From reading reviews it looks like they use otemu switches, but I've seen that most O-rings should work with them. I'd like to damped the noise so I don't wake up my daughter after she goes to sleep, is this a viable option?

This one has great reviews and is recommended by r/MechanicalKeyboards for affordable mechanical keyboards.

This is a really light suggestion. Definitely do some research and ask around, but for just a single build or a few builds a year I would suggest this https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485820735&sr=8-1&keywords=vastar+soldering

At a minimum, its better then the one you have listed.

Just decided to buy a mech keyboard for gaming and went for this cheapo on Amazon (not really looking to spend a lot.)

I really like the feel of the keys, but they are very loud. Can anyone recommend a way to reduce the noise without changing the action of the keystrokes too much?

Take a look at a cm storm TK, pretty cheap, almost TKL size and fits an numpad. Don't know what MX keyboard would use that numpad system but this might be helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A378L10/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473305747&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=cm%2Bstorm%2Bcherry%2Bmx%2Bblue&dpPl=1&dpID=31wokVpI8eL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=

As for keycaps check vortex for a backlit PBT sets on mechanicalkeyboards.com as they normally have a few.

No just the easiest one. Here are a few I've heard of:

1. Dz60rgb - https://kbdfans.cn/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb
   
2. 1UP RGB 60% PCB HSE - https://www.1upkeyboards.com/shop/controllers/1up-rgb-pcb-hse/
   
3. Glorious Modular Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-Modular-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01D8YNJH0
   
4. MASSDROP ALT MECHANICAL KEYBOARD - https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-alt-mechanical-keyboard
   
5. MASSDROP CTRL MECHANICAL KEYBOARD - https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-ctrl-mechanical-keyboard

Found a good Masterkeys. Is this one you would recommend?

That's what I figured... I purchased this thing here for $40 and with 50+hrs/wk over 5months it still performs great. Eventually I'll purchased a "better" one with blue switches for home use, but honestly it feels great.

I don't want to drop $100+ on something I'll hate (like that absurd M$ "ergonomic" keyboard I got rid of after one day) or turns out its too loud for the office (that switch tester I purchased doesn't simulate real typing noise), but options for non-blue switches seem more limited in this price range.

This is the iron i ordered. Comes with 5 tips. Looks like a couple are pretty small. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Hey guys! I’m switching to pc after years of using laptops and I need suggestions! People say the k70 rgb mk2 from Corsair is bad and it seems like this keyboard is used a lot in this sub. is this keyboard for $63 on amazon good? Thanks!

Also on Amazon for those who want to take advantage of Prime shipping :)

And review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CyrBthw5fk

I’m not sure if you might be joshing about pulling off keycaps by hand, but if not, I can totes vouch for getting a keycap puller, such as this handy one from WASD Keyboards. It makes the task much easier.

(There are likewise switch pullers, but I haven’t bought one of those, so there isn’t one in particular that I’m able to recommend.)

you may have over paid, I got mine with browns on amazon for 90 and the one in reds is 90. See if you can return it and save the 23 from buying it on amazon. here the link

https://www.amazon.com/VELOCIFIRE-Wireless-Mechanical-Copywriters-Programmers/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542784702&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=mechanical%2Bkeyboard%2Bbrown&th=1

​

I actually use this exact keyboard at work, because they would buy me a keyboard that's $40 or less haha, and I actually like it as far as mechanical keyboards go :D. Though mine isn't TKL

From what I heard, those pullers tend to scratch/damage keycaps.

I would suggest using something like https://www.amazon.com/WASD-Keyboards-Wire-Keycap-Puller/dp/B00AZCGF7K

Nice board!

Its really good to hear that feed back. Yes, I am most likely not getting the Choc Mini. I think Ill go with something like QuickFire or similar keyboard.

You can get this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Full-Vastar-110v-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453950083&sr=8-2&keywords=soldering+kit+with+temperature+control

I'd recommend picking up a brass wire sponge to keep the tip clean: http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Tip-Cleaner-Black/dp/B00J66FSY2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1453950265&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+brass+wire+sponge

This One

I literally got this keyboard this week. Has some of what you are asking. Brown switches, so tactile and some click, but not as loud as Blues. Was very impressed for 40 bucks.

I have heard good things about the [Masterkeys Pro M] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ITE93K6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487459061&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=masterkeys+pro+m&dpPl=1&dpID=51XsCXlmjGL&ref=plSrch)

It is nice because it remains fairly compact, and it also has a standard bottom row so you aren't limited on Cap choices.

I personally almost bought it after researching it heavily but decided to keep saving for my dream full-sized board.

Cheap o-rings in Europe / Germany?

All prices I found through google are around 14-17 € or need some kind of mass buy.

I wouldn't mind the price but I don't even know if I even like them or the exact size I want.

I know of the cheap US ones but I can't really order from US Amazon and may have to pay shipping and Zoll anyway

I have a qpad mk 80 with reds by the way.