(Part 2) Best products from r/Multicopter

This is my iron. There are many like it, but this one is mine. It's not a great iron, it's a good enough iron, and you can get replacement tips pretty cheap. (I'm actually wanting to upgrade to a $150 Weller, but my iron still works fine. I want better heat control and thermal capacity, but this is one of those "if you can't explain why you need it, you don't need it yet" things.) I also bought this tip cleaner on the same order apparently, I prefer it to a sponge but it's not necessary.

This is the solder I bought most recently. It's honestly a little on the thick side, and multi-core would be better, but it was cheap and works fine. Without the rosin, you'd need flux; they etch the metal to remove the oxide layer that naturally forms and would inhibit a good joint. Thin solder melts faster and gives you more control over how much you apply.

There's other stuff that isn't strictly necessary, but is useful. I have a heat antistatic may on my work bench, and a cheap fume extractor set up behind it; I won't bother linking it because it doesn't have any kind of filter in it. The rosin smoke and the lead are both kinda toxic, so a well-ventilated area and/or a good fume extractor are important. I also keep flux paste, desoldering wick, a solder sucker, and a set of helping hands on my workbench, but I use all that stuff because I do a fair bit of electronics work, YMMV.

For references, Dave of EEVBlog fame has a three part tutorial on soldering which covers all the bases pretty well. He'll also leave you saying "sohldah" instead of "sodder," which is a fun way to annoy American EEs.

Edit: This is my workbench, for reference since I'm in that room right now. There's heat shrink on the helping hands, a trick I straight up stole from /u/bulbufet. It keeps the alligator clips from digging into wires, though the heat shrink has to be replaced periodically as the teeth will eventually work their way through it. And if you don't want to slap together a solder holder out of MDF, you can buy them, but where's the fun in that?

For something that small, an AIO camera would likely be best:

http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TX03-Super-Mini-025mW50mW200mW-Switchable-AIO-5_8G-72CH-VTX-600TVL-13-Cmos-FPV-Camera-p-1104884.html?rmmds=search

The Tx03 is well regarded, supports every channel you could want, and plenty of power output.
A bit smaller option is the inductrix style ones - less power, but even smaller and a touch more durable: https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Camera-Transmitter-Splitter-Inductrix/dp/B01LYAW6S6

As for monitor - couple options. Lots of people like the immersiveness of the goggle style rather than monitor. If you agree, the EV800 for $55 are a good start, but the VR D2 at $80 are an even better deal with diversity and a DVR to record your flights.


If you really want a monitor, IMO the best option is the Eachine LCD5802 - its not as cheap as some others (that can be found for as little as $60), but has a great OSD, great battery, DVR, dual receivers, etc.

You mention a voltage read out - that starts to get more expensive very quickly, as you need something with an OSD (larger, more expensive cameras) or a flight controller with OSD and separate VTx.

What do you want to do with it?

Neither of those kits have everything you need to start from scratch... but without knowing what you want to do can't even tell you if it's a good start.


How big do you want it? / What do you want to do with it?

• Want to do acrobatics or FPV racing?
  
• You'll be looking at 200mm-300mm sized quads and Hexes.
  
• Want to do GPS and 3-axis gimbal stabilized aerial photography?
  
• You'll be looking at 450+mm quads or 550+mm hexes.
  
• Want to do a bit of everything with a fixed camera or simple 2-axis gimbaled camera?
  
• 350mm-450 quads.
  
• Want to fly indoors primarily?
  
• You'll want Micro quads in the 100-150mm range. These are a relatively new class of self-built quad. Kits/Parts are a little harder to come by as they often go out of stock.
  
  
  What type of primary control do you want over it?
  
  
• Standard RC Controls?
  
  
• Intelligent Orientation Modes (aka Headless mode) where craft movement is relative to starting position/direction instead of typical "front".
  
  
• GPS and autopilot waypoint flight programed from a PC/Tablet "Groundstation"?
  
  
• What's your budget?
  
• What parts do you already have?
  
• Do you already have any RC equipment like LiPo batteries and charger or RC Transmitter/Receiver?
  
• Do you already have any lightweight action cameras like a GoPro? Mobius? or 808 Keychain cam?
  
  If you are starting from nothing this could be $250-$500 endevor at the lower end ... and much closer to $1000 if you are going for FPV flight and/or stabilized aerial photography and advanced GPS mission planning.
  
  ----------
  
  Most importantly. If this is your first quad/RC flier ... I HIGHLY recommend getting a cheap toy "trainer" quad + some extra batteries. You can train with it while waiting for your parts to arrive:
  
  
• Hubsan x4 - No Camera $45 / 720p Camera $75
  
• Syma X5C-1 @ $50-$70
  
• Blade Nano QX with plastic controller @ $90
  
• Blade Nano QX $60 + Hobby grade 9-Channel RC Controller Transmitter $60 + DSMX Tranmitter Module $30 - This RC combo would also be used for your larger quad build. This way you are practicing with the exact same controller. Expensive way to start out, but the prefered method if you have the funds.

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

-a good workbench with clamps and a lot of surface area

-a soldering STATION. I have this. also buy LEAD solder, and those little things of cleaner/tinner are super useful.

-fume extractor (optional, but very easy to build with a fan and some ducting. Worth it.)

-pliers, wire cutters, crimpers, and strippers,

-lots of extra wire

-heat shrink tubing and something to heat it with.

-lots of extra screws/zip ties/fasteners

-somewhere to put screws. A flat tray works nicely, but magnetic ones are the best.

-a multimeter or oscilloscope. I use this.

-prop balancer. Very necessary, especially if doing video or using cheap props. (They can explode if not balanced.)

-lots of lamps and light sources.

-a pair of Helping Hands for soldering.

-hex wrenches/screwdrivers

-good hacksaw/hobby saw/Xacto knife.

-calipers/rulers

-drill/dremel

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

• Save yourself a few bucks and get the Hakko / Snip Combo.
  
• I beat the shit out of my 10 yr old radio shack fire starter, and now i LOVE my Hakko. To be prepared I found this video on how to take care of tips. I've been doing this guys method from the start and HOLY BALLS my tip is still in good condition after several months of use. I even bought extra tips from HK thinking i was going to need them. LOL.. maybe down the road or precision soldering.
  
• I know you said you have hex drivers, but i picked up this set due to my original hex set stripping. The Titanium apparently keeps from stripping.. have yet to strip them, so we'll see. Also good to have something at the bench, and an on the go set for the field. I actually have a multi-tool from HK for the field.. it's not titanium but it works.
  
• I also have a multi-tool ratcheting hex nut driver for my props.
  
• zip ties
  
• blue lock tight for motors
  
• personally i have yet to use or need a heat gun, if it's for shrinking heat shrink i simply use a lighter.
  
• little baggies for small parts. I label mine where these parts came from but not necessary.. e.g. Cobra motors, Naze32, Strix frame, etc.
  
• i picked up a cheap helping hands from Harbor Freight for like $3.. it comes in handy.
  
• Lipo Checker.. i personally got a Hyperion EOS Sentry 3 for $11.
  
• XT60 male/female connectors
  
• 12/14/18/20/22/26 AWG wire..
  
• Car bulb for smoke stopper.. this should be the FIRST thing you build.. it's saved me sooooo many times.
  
• electrical tape.. lots and lots of electrical tape.
  
• double sided tape.. foamed/padded
  
  probably more.. but all i can think of right now..
  
  
  

No idea about the FC but pilots on YouTube appear to be using Cleanflight/Betaflight to configure settings. I'll be able to set self-leveling mode in that software right? Here its specs.

Sounds good - will likely pick one of these up. RTF is preferred but I have a feeling I'll eventually purchase some tools for switching out the TX later. Is all the equipment below compatible and do you recommend I purchase anything else?

• Makerfire RTF
  
  
• Eachine EV800 (How do these compare to the VR D2s?)
  
  
• Crazypony 220MAH or 250MAH (220 or 250 MAH?)
  
  This is going to be three quads in less than a month... but this hobby is too much fun. Hopefully this E010 lasts awhile before I purchase a Wizard.
  

You will lose a little bit of flight time with the stock battery and motors. The carbon frame is a tad bit heavier than the plastic.

I recommend these batteries now that you have the room and these props... I get around 12-13 minutes of actual flight time with that setup. No, not hover time... moderately aggressive flight time.

Be aware that your lift to weight ratio is now a bit smaller, and if you use the stock flight controller the craft will want to "dig" when you tilt forward to pick up speed quickly. With higher power motors this will likely not be as big an issue. Don't get me wrong though, it still flies like a beast, but it requires more attention than the original symmetrical layout.

Also, the LEDs are now extremely difficult to use for orientation. Consider purchasing some bigger ones to mount on the corners.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's mine with only new frame, battery, and props: http://imgur.com/bx9QRQg

Edit 2: The foil tape is a temporary measure to protect the original motor wires, which were too short to be secured to the body/arms. The new motors have much longer wires and will be secured properly while soldering in.

Hey buddy! Okay I have a super easy solution, and it happens to be the most practical and money-conscious thing to do:

Buy yourself a toy-quality quad. Either a Hubsan or a Syma. They've got good range, good hover time, fully functional, and have a camera. You can crash both of them repeatedly, and you'll learn everything you need to. Then, it'll make your next decision super easy. You'll know all the pros and cons yourself.

You want one of these cheapo quads to get all the bad habits out of the way before investing and spending money

This is close to what I started with and is probably your best bet for something in that price range. The best way to learn is to just play around with it. They're pretty easy to fly.

EACHINE EV800 5 Inches 800x480 FPV Goggles Video Glasses 5.8G 40CH Raceband Auto-Searching Build in Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FDGN8LI

$99 - I don’t have these but they turn up a lot on reviews of cheap/inexpensive starter goggles. I have an older/discontinued FatShark Transformer (also a box goggle) that is pretty good and was fairly inexpensive for a FatShark.

If you think you are going to like FPV at all you will likely want a better set of goggles very quickly.

honestly the best place to start is a syma x5c very little initial cost, works great indoors and out, and if the kid loses inerested you are out $40. the same crappy brushless quad is rebranded and costs $150+ at toys R us/target etc..

if they do get the bug, and want more, well come back and we'll help direct you towards the best way to spend another $200+ :D

Great review! I have gone through 2 of those cheap style bags (well, not those exact ones, but similar), and got tired of zippers breaking, stitching coming apart, etc. This year I spent about $65 on a bag that lets me store about 3-5 quads on it, and also has plenty of room for goggles, spare parts, and tons of lipo batteries. I also have a ton of other stuff in there (including a first aid kit, surface pro laptop, flashlight, etc). Another great thing about it is a lifetime warranty!!

Link to bag on Amazon here

Price wise it is somewhere between your Pro and Deluxe. I've been using this bag regularly for the last 3 months and it has absolutely no signs of wear. The zippers are really sturdy, stitching is great.

This took me 5 minutes to put together.

Commercial Version:
hobby creek version

Materials List:

• coolant hoses
  
  
• alligator clips
  
  
• A solid piece of wood
  
• some heatshrink
  
• some hotglue...
  
  

1. The threaded connector on the hoses is a 1/2"-20 thread. So grab a spade bit or 1/2" bit and drill as many holes as you want into your base.
   
   
2. Don't make the mistake I made and either use a dense hardwood for the weight, or offset the mounting holes further back so it doesn't tip forward.
   
   
3. Insert the coolant hoses and hot glue from the bottom then around the base and let that set
   
   
4. drill the tube openings to the diameter of the alligator clip arm (about 1/4") but make sure it's snug, smaller is better than bigger.
   
   
5. shoot some glue into the tube opening as well as the alligator clip
   
   
6. slide on a tiny piece of heatshrink onto the tube
   
   
7. push the alligator clip into the tube then heat the heatshrink around the connection (I used marine heatshrink which has a built in heat activated adhesive to help this connection)
   
   
8. grab some rubber dots or no slip feet and stick them on the bottom of your base board.
   
   The amazon link I linked to sells the hoses in packs of 6 so you can make one for yourself and a friend, or do what hobby creek did and fix 4 arms to the base (which in my opinion is a little overkill).
   
   It's not 100% rigid, but for a $9 build, it's "rigid enough".

Here is a link to it on amazon. Would be happy to send an affiliate link if you like :)

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/

Seriously though, this stuff works well for me. I can fly and crash into snow with confidence. :)

I just recently started myself with [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CP5NSGG) and have really enjoyed it a lot. Feels like I'm already immeasurably better at controlling it and I've only had ten or twelve flights. I would definitely recommend this model for learning on.

http://www.amazon.com/SYMA-Explorers-6-Axis-Quadcopter-Camera/dp/B00MNG37C2

That first. While you're learning to fly, do lots of research, keep it up until you know what you need to buy yourself. The links I provided earlier are a good start, but it's really best to have a good understanding of everything before jumping in.

I got an Eachine screen, works great, 3hr battery life w/ built in battery, can be powered by lipo as well, comes with cables for lipo, and a wall charger as well, built in DVR, has a sun shield and diversity. Also, it autoscans channels, and shows snow "static" instead of blue screens. Works great for me. https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-LCD5802D-Monitor-Receiver-Battery/dp/B01ANOOJ3Q/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1501113689&sr=8-13-spons&keywords=eachine+diversity&psc=1

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71urFLFATzL._SL1200_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

Grab a good hakko or weller soldering station and you should be set for years! They make pretty damn good clones of these as well for much cheaper if you want to save a few bucks.

Get a Dubro balancer and these should work good.
Use any nailpolish and apply incrimentaly to the back of prop towards tip untill perfectly balanced.

Rctimer is a bit slow with shipping but the price and CS is worth it.

http://rctimer.com/product-665.html

Or Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fiber-Propellers-Pairs-1045/dp/B01I9EG08Y/ref=pd_sbs_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GT194G3NXFE9N4A476XT

This is a good balancer.

https://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1487510925&sr=1-1&keywords=dubro

OP - I'm in the same boat as you with just getting into this hobby. Get the Hubsan X4, or if you feel like committing a little bit more cash maybe the Blade Nano QX or the Blade 180 QX HD. Something like this will give you a good idea of if you like it and want to sink more money into it.

I've got the Hubsan X4 and I'm having tons of fun flying it. Buy the little $3.00 crash protector (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-Propeller-Blades-Protection/dp/B00ECDRBHQ) and get a few extra sets of props. This is the <$50 route (or if you get the Hubsan w/ the Camera, $70ish route).

Has he ever flown anything?

If not then the stock answer is to go with one of the "toy" quads. They are fairly inexpensive, very durable, and replacement parts are plentiful and cheap for the inevitable crashes. Once he gets the hang of that, then he can move up to something that's more powerful, and expensive.

Don't be fooled by the size, these are still fairly tough to get the hang of flying, and are really great fun. Most can be flown indoors as well.

The Hubsan H107 gets recommended quite a bit (I own one, and it's been great).

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107-L_M2-The-X4-H107L/dp/B00CP5NSGG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-2&keywords=quadcopter

With that you'd want to get both the prop guard, and the crash kit.

The Syma X1 gets a lot of recommendations as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B0096SJU3U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-5&keywords=quadcopter

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B00906PKQ4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-8&keywords=quadcopter

And there's the Estes Proto X (I don't see many recommendations for this, but have seen it mentioned in other places quite a bit):

http://www.amazon.com/Estes-Proto-Quadcopter-Colors-Black/dp/B00G924W98/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1407263704&sr=8-6&keywords=quadcopter

I'm sure there are more that I'm missing, but I'm sure others will chime in.

These are some of the best types of mounts for noisy quads- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7E9C1W/

I have used them on a few 6500mpus with untunable twitches and they always solved the issue.

Edit: and I agree with the 6500 statement. I had a few that worked awesome. Although they had a higher noise floor they are definitely and improved more precise version of their predecessor the 6000mpu. It's too bad they got such a bad rap.

I've been pretty happy with these clear props:
http://www.amazon.com/AFUNTA-Transparent-Propellers-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B00RE5US38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451986117&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+clear+props

They seem more bendable/durable than the stock ones.

I just burned out an ESC on a quad I just finished building :(. What's the best way to determine the cause?

It's a this ESC powered by this battery with this power distribution board. Thanks in advance!

RE: the Hubsan Tx being re-used... not really. Issue is that the video rx will be compatible with fatsharks, however the transmitter itself won't bind to anything else outside of the Hubsan lineup really.

Also, the H107D's transmitter is also still firmly in the "toy" category. If it weren't for the built in screen, it would probably be my least favorite transmitter out of everything I have. It's awkwardly shaped, has awful battery life, the range isn't anything to get excited about, and the sticks suck.

Hubsan's quads, as wonderfully newbie friendly as they are, are pretty poor picks in the long run - you can't bind the quad to a better transmitter, like you can WLToys and Blade models (and many others, just the first two that come to mind).

Copy/paste from another comment I left someone the other day:


If you can stretch your budget for it, in my opinion the best "toy grade" flying experience is going to be with a Blade Nano QX quadcopter, and a real transmitter - not the imprecise plastic crap that you're going to get in the box with most toy quads. I can not overstate enough how much better an experience it is to fly with a quality transmitter.

• Blade Nano QX
  
  
• Spektrum DX6i - You can use this transmitter on your self-built quads as well; at 6 channels it leaves you with a bit of growing room. This will set you back about $130 USD right now, and you'll get a free 6 channel receiver with it (good thru the end of the year AFAIK). Alternatively, get a Turnigy 9X and a DSMX module - lower build quality than the Spektrum's, but supports more channels, and might provide more room to grow into over time.

I ordered a EACHINE LCD5802D. Monitor, Diversity receiver, DVR all in one for $130. I don't typically fly by it, it's just there for spectators and to record, but I like it.

It's my experience that spectators are way more comfortable watching a screen than putting something on their face.

amazon link

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

I am thinking about getting the following Syma FPV kit:

http://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Real-time-Transmission-Display-Quadcopter/dp/B013HQCK88/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457369103&sr=8-3&keywords=syma+fpv

and fitting it on a standard, DJI 450 knockoff quadcopter that I built. Would this work? What battery would I need to power the camera on the quad? I have spare batteries from an old Hubsan X4, would those work?
I understand this is cheapo, but any feedback or input would be great! Anyone with experience with this kit, please chime in.

Hakko 888D Soldering Iron. With this thing, soldering is actually fun. I look around just for things to solder with this baby.

EDIT: for reasons why it's great:

• temperature controlled: always heat your solder to just the right temp. Makes for stronger joints and you don't end up burning up all your flux. It also means when metal sucks out the heat, the controller gives it a boost so it stays hot.
  
  
• heats up in about 15 seconds.
  
  
• digital readout of current temp
  
  
• wire is very flexible. It isn't a nuisance when trying to make fine adjustments.
  
  
• pencil is very thin and easy to grip, but it doesn't get hot because the heating element is at the tip.

I took the plunge and bought this one . Love it and it's worked for all of my RC, 3D printing, guitar, and automotive hobbies. Well worth the investment.

You can buy AIO (all in one) cameras that have integrated transmitters, and those will do you for getting started. I'm using this on a micro build and it's got great penetration (for an AIO) and plenty of channels:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEGFK3S/

I can't vouch for quality as I haven't used one before, but here's a monitor that checks a lot of the right boxes. I'd start with a monitor and fly with that until you are comfortable and then switch to goggles. Goggles are where it's at.

https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-LCD5802D-Monitor-Receiver-Battery/dp/B01ANOOJ3Q/

I've had lots of fun with the x5c. Might go with something better down the road, footage isn't too bad either, check out videos on youtube...

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4GHz-Explorers-Copter/dp/B00KI03U8Q

I never bothered balancing my ZMR250 props, but for my big S800 Hexacopter I decided to get a Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer. It works amazingly well, and I like to think that it helped reduce jello in my video.

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

You'll need a prop balancer. This one on Amazon is pretty high rated but may be more than you need plus pretty expensive. I have something similar to this and it works for me. After you get one just do a search on YouTube for prop balancing.

This 5.8ghz FPV kit, if you are not scared of opening things up, get it and mod your x5c-1 with a built in FPV system...mine rocks

1. I haven't done that yet
   
2. Yes, reverse the pins, I used a tiny screwdriver to press down on the + pin, and push it back just a little bit. Slides out easy, then do the -, just push them in firmly and don't let them cross!
   
   
3. I have 2 sets of spare motors, til they burn up I likely won't upgrade

Seems fine, maybe even overpriced. I got these on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've been doing great. They had blheli flashed on them out of the box.

You can get a 5.8GHz FPV system for the Syma x5c.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HQCK88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

I purchased this last month for mine. The screen is very bright, even outdoors. Camera is about the same quality as the 2.0MP/720p that comes with the x5c (slower exposure compensation, slightly sharper image).

Here's footage I took the other day [from the camera] *(Removed link since it's from my own YouTube channel. PM me if you want the link).

I highly recommend it for a beginner/trainer quad. Under $130 all in for the quad, FPV and extra batteries.

I dont get it?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6
is $13 is that out of your price range?
The nice thing about actual conformal coating is that you can solder through the coating or remove it if needed. Had grate luck with it so-fare.

They sell https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YGQI its about $5 more though, it is an Aerosol. Never used it before though.

When I got my Hubsan from Amazon I also got the prop guard which saved dozens of would-be-destroyed props. I also picked up the crash pack for the extra props, and the battery helps a lot too. I read on here somewhere that someone would fly, swap out batteries and continue flying and eventually burned out a motor or something (the extra kit comes with two motors anyways), so keep that in mind.

Thanks for the guide, looking to buy my first quad soon. Between the Hubsan X4 HD and this, what would you recommend?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KI03U8Q/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=31fZXbjQd6L

I'm just gonna put this out there....for another $40 you can get a great soldering station

Not sure if portability is an issue for you. For what it's worth, I have a cordless soldering iron I never use. Not really making those field repairs I thought I might be

i use the eachine 7 inch screen ,its like 90 bucks

https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-LCD5802D-Monitor-800x480-Receiver/dp/B01ANOOJ3Q

i got it cheaper than 139 but its a good screen.

Hmm if it were me I probably wouldn't do it. It's rated for 8A and your power supply is only 6A. Another option if you decide not to do what you are looking at is this

Combo Special: Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BvPHyb4001D47

I have it and love it. Along with a parallel charging board I can charge 6 Lipos at a time!

Awesome! Highly suggest you pick up some extra batteries (600mah), extra motors (brushed burnout a lot) and these props (don't fly off and hold up to some abuse): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RE5US38/

the hakko 888 is the be all end all:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421042769&sr=1-1

best soldering iron ever.

I had a close call during one of my first flights. Have yet to actually make contact with a bird though, fortunately.

Also, this is a great chance to replace those props if they're stock. Stock ones tend to fly off. These are my favorite so far.

Both goggles and antenna are budget products but work better than nothing. I got the gogles before I learned just how much cheaper I could get gear on Bangood or GearBest. In hindsight, I would have gotten goggles with diversity antennas.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FDGN8LI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oF-UAbZJSTJ5Y
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJ75TS1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nD-UAbWP28NCK

The Hubsan X4 (h107L) is an amazing micro quad. It's my first quad and I can't believe the things it will do.

I got this one and I was concerned that I got the older model because it is not listed as X5C-1. However, the product I received was the updated X5C-1. I got mine just last week. If you order that one linked it will be the updated model. You can tell the old model from the new model based on the graphics on the top of the quad. Hope this helps.

Unless you absolutely need it to be portable this hakko was a huge quality of life increase for my hobby building
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWUFVY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1456806658&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hakko&dpPl=1&dpID=41KfFMZyi9L&ref=plSrch

The Amazon reviews are good on this one (at least the average rating is).

http://www.amazon.com/Syma-X5C-Channel-2-4GHz-Explorers/dp/B00KI03U8Q

Thanks, I have heard of the ladybirds now that you mention it. I picked up this set from Amazon:

ESCs (and FC and RX) are coated in conformal compound, its like super thin layer of epoxy. See here: http://amzn.com/B008O9YIV6 Makes it mostly waterproof, in theory at least, not something I want to intentionally test.

And then between ESC and arm is thin piece of double sided foam: http://amzn.com/B007Y7EF4E

Even if it comes loose, there isn't much slack in the wires, so it can't actually move up more than a 1/8 inch or so so its not going to like get hit by a prop or something. I've done similar setup on 2 other quads and not had any issue.

Understood. Thanks!

What about this?

THE ZON!

I don't know if people realize this but those arms are used to direct streams of water for a bunch of applications like CNC work.

It's 7.4V right now. It was higher when it arrives and after 17 hours of practices that I've done so far.
I'm considering about keeping it and get a charger, which at the end, is gonna be needed fpr charge those 3S - 4S packs. By any chance do you know this one? I like it the simplicity, with everything ready to charge, and not the hassle of getting charger and power supply separated


Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger Discharger 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Packs LCD Hobby Battery Charger w/ Tamiya/JST/EC3/HiTec/Deans Connectors + Power Supply 01435 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g.8PCbSK1B4T4

The Amazon listing is pretty poorly written and vague. I believe the charging port is for a barrel connecter for an external NiMH charger, with a NiMH battery pack inside the QX7.

As for your other battery, you will need a Lipo Balance charger. I got this one as my first hobby charger. If you are unfamiliar with handling of Lithium Ion batteries, please read/watch up on proper charging and storage procedures. You can burn your house down if you don't know what you are doing.

Here, 4 genuine littlebees for $40 bucks. $10 each, free shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these guys and they are going to be delivered today! hopefully i can fly my quad for the first time today!

Sounds like an MLG setup. I'm thinking about something like this, do you think I'll have any problems with it all being powered by a 3S battery?

Wolf Whoop vtx

Eachine EV800 goggles

Anbee Antenna

I have a question for FPV,
Can I use a Diatone Sp3 VTX with HS1177 Sony 600TVL Camera and Eachine EV800 Goggles all together? Also I'm planning on using the TBS Triumph Antennas

I use this on my new winter build. I basically do about 3 packs a day and then toss it in the rack to dry with the dishes and haven't had a problem. Chicago has a lot of snow right now and it's reversed props so it's always packed tight when I get home since they fling the snow at the flight controller.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=pd_m_ba_rp_of_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C8DPHQ5N2VJN5QBZG0NX

It's normally like this after every flight. https://imgur.com/a/XMGUulZ

I hear good things about this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8

It's because it's actually flexible tubing for coolant: (forgive the mobile paste) Leadingstar GEN09015 Plastic Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O14864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6bHXKRlBQQs2B

Combo Special: Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pbALwbZNYN5Y8

Would this work on the 3s lipos?

I've got multiple Lux (V1s) that I use soft mounted, using these types of stand-offs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7E9C1W

I doubt there will ever be a software fix for the lux v1 noise issues since the root issue is a hardware deficiency, though in my experience the board still flies great (YMMV depending upon motors, frame, how your fc is mounted, and tons of other factors).

I remember watching a YouTube video where someone covered their electronics in this stuff and flew it in a bathtub. Plus it doesn't add any bulk to the drone like liquid tape. But that being said I haven't tried it myself yet.

I used to recommend the Syma X1, and it's what I started with before building my first tricopter. However, I think there has been a lot of progress with the flight controllers in these mini quads. My Syma X1 feels very sluggish now.

I would spend a bit more and get a Hubsan x4. http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107-L_M2-The-X4-H107L/dp/B00CP5NSGG/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1396292286&sr=1-1&keywords=hubsan+x4

Just get the right one and you'll be ok.

I'd second the conformal coating, seems to work well for me. this is the stuff I used http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41dzbpa8jyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR118%2C160_&refRID=01C6ET92JK608J6A6AWW

I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/Syma-X5C-Channel-2-4GHz-Explorers/dp/B00KI03U8Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1426527831&sr=1-1&keywords=X5C

and it was the new version was well.

Dry drone is a popular product out there but, it's price to size ratio is crazy. I also have come across Silicone Conformal coating like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For outdoor flying you cannot go wrong with a Syma X5c - http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Explorers-6-Axis-Quadcopter-Camera/dp/B00MNG37C2

You can find any number of "new to flying, what should I get?" posts that will answer with either the Syma, Hubson X4, or Cheerson CX-10. The Hubsan and Cheerson are both too small for any real outdoor flying.

Leadingstar GEN09015 Plastic Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O14864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6.QNybC2AFKMP

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

that's it

I wanted to try this but dat manufacturing lead time doe

Silicone conformal coating. You can cover everything with this stuff, fc, escs, vtx, reciever. Keep it out of buttons and connectors, this is where people use a brush and paint on corrosionx.

conformal coating

IMO weller has gone the way of many. you're paying an extra $30 for the name.

i use this for everything, including SMT

These two...

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107-L_M2-The-X4-H107L/dp/B00CP5NSGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404693444&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+x4+107l

http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107C-2-4G-Quadcopter-Camera/dp/B00EXBDYPK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404693460&sr=8-3&keywords=hubsan+x4+107c

you mean this one?

http://www.amazon.com/BLADE-Nano-QX-BNF-Quadcopter/dp/B00CYHZTDK

Here is the desktop version of your link

What about this one? http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4GHz-Explorers-Copter/dp/B00KI03U8Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415395812&sr=8-2&keywords=syma+quad

Which ones in particular? Here is 20 props for $8.99... Amazon

These? https://www.amazon.com/AFUNTA-Transparent-Propellers-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B00RE5US38

these little bees

this fc

Goddammit, I dun goof'd. This shit better work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6

I've got this on my Shrieker and I've been flying it daily in rain and mud and snow. My only complaint, and I think this will be true with any conformal coating, is that it wicks into micro-buttons and can cause them to stop working if you aren't careful.

I'm not sure why it's so hard to find the little bottles on Amazon now.

Acrylic

Urethane

Silicone

I have the acrylic because the silicone kind costs about twice as much. The urethane might make a harder protective shell though I'm not sure. And you can solder through it so don't worry about trying to remove it.

Instead of the crash pack i'd suggest buying parts separately. Crash packs have some stuff youll probably never need. The only things you have to worry about replacing are props, motors, and propguard if your X4 didn't come with one (check underneath the plastic box insert, on some units it's taped there).

Great props: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RE5US38?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02

also sold as combo with propguards, although i've only tried clear ones that are only sold separately

Motors (for H107L): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVZMU4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

MG Chemicals Silicon Modified Conformal Coating.

I was able to see where I had coated and where I missed with this UV Flashlight.