Best products from r/NFA

We found 49 comments on r/NFA discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 136 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/NFA:

u/JimmJardashian · 5 pointsr/NFA

Since you didn’t purchase through SilencerShop, disregard them and anything you did through them.

So you purchased your can and it’s at your dealer or on its way. When it arrives, get the Serial Number and use this Form 4 guide. It might help if you get your FFL/SOT’s info. If you don’t have it, fill out all the info you can on the Form 4 generator.

Filing as a trust? If you have have a Trust, make a copy. If not, I recommend purchasing one from National Gun Trusts. Familiarize yourself with it and get it notarized. Ask questions! Their customer service is very helpful. Make a copy of your notarized trust.

Get two passport photos. You can go to Walgreens. It might behoove you scan a copy on your computer for e-files/SilencerShop purchases and if you have a color printer, making your own copies. If you have other people in your Trust, two copies of their photos.

If filing as a trust, you’ll need to fill out the 5320.23 for yourself and anybody on the trust.

Fingerprints cards: two for you and two for each person on your trust. I recommend ordering some from here, for free. As well as an ink pad from here. The first link has a guide for completing the cards.

National Gun Trusts is my go to for completing any ATF forms and applications.

u/brownsemen · 7 pointsr/NFA

This is a bit big for a pistol suppressor, but it might give you some ideas.

Me and a friend spent quite a bit of time looking for off the shelf parts to use in a form 1 can and stumbled upon something quite remarkable. A 3/4 oz. jigger is an almost perfect fit in a NAPA 4003 fuel filter. Simply split it from the other end of the jigger, mount it in the chuck and bore a hole in the center. Then turn down a tube of 1.5" ID aluminum to fit inside and cut into sections for spacers. We have completed them and they have held up to 5.56 NATO and full power 300 Blackout without any problems. Oh, they work quite well too! Very quiet with subsonic 300 Blackout. I hope to make a DIY thread soon. This will have to do until I get some of the lathe pics.

Edit: Get can here

Get jiggers here

Split jiggers

Here's the jiggers after being separated.

Front and back of baffle and spacer.

Detail showing machining inside spacer to allow baffle to seat properly.

Two baffle stacks stacked.

First coat of paint! Here you can see we faced the end cap and knurled it. I also drilled two holes in the front of the cap so I could use a spanner wrench in case it gets stuck.

On one of the hosts. 300 Blackout pistol.

Tear down after a day at the range. Here you can see we milled the blast baffle to reduce weight. I hope to mill the spacers to further reduce weight. It is especially dirty because I used wire pulling gel on some subsonic ammo to see just how quiet it could get. Very impressive performance for the money spent.

u/nitsuJcixelsyD · 2 pointsr/NFA

None of those soaks/methods are going to do anything.

For separating the baffles read your manual. “Oculus 22 Disassembly” part 6 (shown below). Rugged suggest using a hex key to gently pry them apart. I have a set of brass punches that I use the same way to gently apply leverage and pop the baffles apart.

Next, go to Harbor Freight and get a single drum (link) or dual drum (link) rock polisher. Use this coupon for 20% off. I have the dual drum and I use one for the oculus baffles and the other for Obsidian 45 baffles at the same time.

Finally get some stainless steel pin media for cheap from amazon. 2 lbs is perfect for the dual drum, I use 1 lb of pins in each drum.

Fill up one drum with 1lb of pins, the separated baffles, and then warm water until it covers the baffles completely. Give it a small squirt of Dawn dish soap and you are set. Seal the lid on the drum and let it tumble for 2-8 hours. The longer you go between cleaning, the longer you can tumble.

The stainless pins are softer than the 17-4 steel baffles, so they won’t hurt them at all.

After that 2-8 hours crack it open. I like to go back by the woods in my back yard and pour it out through a mesh steel strainer. Make sure the strainer has smaller holes than the pins. This should catch all the pins and baffles and let the carbon, water, and pummeled lead through. I hit the strainer contents with a garden hose for a bit to clean it all out.

Go back inside and dry everything off. They should be 80%-90% clean. Any large remaining chunks of lead you can scrape off with a brass punch. I also like to take a spent .223 case and flatten the mouth in a vice. This makes a nice sharp and flat scraper as well. Scrape off any remaining simple to get lead. They should now be 90%-95% clean.

This final scraping is not necessary and only if you really care. You don’t need to get every last chunk off. It will just get dirty again, and a dirty suppressor is a quiet suppressor.

All told, this is the cheapest and easiest way to clean steel rimfire baffles. Ultrasonic is only decent on carbon and doesn’t do much to separate lead from baffles.

u/SilencerShop · 4 pointsr/NFA

That is the original AAC logo. I don't think any suppressor manufacturer makes their own pouches. They buy them from a 3rd party and have them branded with their own logos. That said, I always liked the AAC, Griffin, SilencerCo ones as well as our in-house brand. We use the same mfg as Griffin.

The Gemtech 5 suppressor pouch is pretty cool too, though I wish they had put PALS webbing or at least some kind of straps on the back. They are good for just throwing in a bag or whatever. The Q ones, made by Blue Force Gear IIRC, are really nice too but they are kind of form fitted for those particular suppressors, where most others are slightly more universal with an adjustment strap etc.

I personally have one of these for my rimfire suppressors. The silencers fit where the magazines are supposed to go. It's kind of nice because I can keep all my rimfire tools, a couple small .22 LR pistols and some ammo in there as well. I know it's UTG, but it it's cheap, works well and you don't have to worry about high temps with rimfire anyway.

u/default-gateway · 1 pointr/NFA

The only time I've gotten printed by LEO's was for some of my non-resident CCW's. Florida for example requires that the prints are taken by a LEO. The ATF don't give a shit. Like I said follow that link and the ATF will send you as many FP cards as you want for free. They even cover the shipping. Amazon has great ink pads, I'll link below. I can do 2 cards in about 10 min or so now and they come out better than when the LEO's do them. It's not rocket surgery.

I'm beginning to think it's getting too easy for me and I'll have a stamp collection in no time. I efiled a form 1 for a 22lr can I'm building and did my own prints this past saturday in the time it took me to go through 2 beers. Hopefully this one come back as fast as the last which was for an SBR, took 11 days from the day i sent my prints in to get the approval email. My credit card hates me now.

FP pad

u/joe0121 · 1 pointr/NFA

I have built a couple Form 1's but I have a question because i am not happy with a couple aspects.


  1. How do you clips the baffles
  2. how do you take up the extra distance inside the tube or do you try to get the baffle and spacer spacing perfect?

    I have a lathe so I can setup some kind of live tooling to clip baffles and use a lathe to get the spacing right but im looking to maybe do a tutorial for a guy who only has a drill press and a dream.


    For clipping baffle a good round file can do the job eventually but I was thinking about a carbide bur in a dremmel with good layout lines. I am currently using these guys take take up the slack in the baffle stack.
u/jayemo · 3 pointsr/NFA

You don't really need to clean it after every trip, you only need to keep it clean enough that it doesn't get stuck. You'll just have to experiment with finding that sweet spot, maybe wait a few trips then see how it comes apart.

I have this cleaner and it is perfect size for fitting all octane baffles -

For solution I use 50 50 of power purple and water and let it run for an hour.

u/Piss_Post_Detective · 1 pointr/NFA

Ok awesome, that's great to hear. How do you like the stock? I've heard that's the thing I've heard that people don't like. I was thinking about getting the Boyds Tacticool stock. I also thought about getting a cheek riser and painting the stock myself.

u/SBR_AK_is_best_AK · 2 pointsr/NFA

Yes I do clip. I did the DHC style clips on mine.

What are you talking about SS with Ti coating? Sounds like some BS to me. Who are you thinking of buying from?

As far as making it, engage your brain, and dont rush. Especially on the clipping. Take a good tungsten bit on the dremel to do the swoop cuts.

I'd recommend buying a new drill bit or 2 in the sizes you are going to use. I like the black oxide uncoated ones from Dewalt, Lowes sells them individually (in a ton of sizes).

u/Azaex · 2 pointsr/NFA

Yes it fits in there without the can. Just barely. Bear in mind my receiver extension is a little longer than normal since it's an A5 (the position you see here is the sba3 fully collapsed), and I have a 11.5" barrel. It will actually fit in there with a 20rnd mag seated.

There is a front zipper pocket there as well that perfectly fits a mag.

Wilson Advantage III Triple Bag - Black/Red

u/Spys0ldier · 3 pointsr/NFA

I did my own prints recently for a form 1 and was approved. I bought this Lee Inkless FingerPrint Pad (S03027) It works well and you just need to practice on some blank paper before you do it on the actual cards. Make sure not to smudge and good luck!

u/hyrulejedi86 · 3 pointsr/NFA

The absolutely best way to clean them is in a tumbler with stainless steel pins. I started doing this with my stainless steel baffled cans and it saves Soo much time and effort on my part.
Buy this from harbor freight with a 20% off coupon:

Then buy something like this:

Put about 1-1.5" of pins in the bottom of the drum. Place baffles in the drum, fill to just covering the baffles with water and a couple drops of soap. Add Lemishine to the mixture. Run overnight and the baffles will come out as close to factory looking new as they possibly can. Don't put aluminum in the drum however.

You can choose to split up the baffles between the two drums if it's too full or buy a bigger drum that replaces the two separate drums with one big one.

On this page it's the last drum for sale, the tumble-bee 4lb drum. I run my pistons too with no issues.
Hope this helps!

u/gwhunter280 · 3 pointsr/NFA

Depends on the build area you want, but the monoprice maker select is a good printer to start with. It will print okay from the get go, but with a couple mods (look up z brace mod) you can get it printing very nicely.

u/tempmj · 2 pointsr/NFA

Thanks for the info! I’ll grab a pad (already got a stack of cards from ATF).

Do you think it’s worthwhile using a card holder like this if you are doing yourself? Identicator Fingerprint Cardholder

Would you suggest having someone assist rolling the prints? I’ve heard before that it comes out better if you are not pressing your own fingers on the card, but i assume with a few rest runs it’s easy enough solo?

u/ENT_I_AM · 2 pointsr/NFA

I use this one I got off amazon it's their best seller and it works great


plenty big enough

u/TwoWheeledTraveler · 2 pointsr/NFA

If you don't take out the booster assembly on a regular basis, a drop or two of rocksett on those threads will keep it from backing out on you. Also, when you tighten the can on to the host, be aware that on a LH threaded barrel like your SIG, you want to make sure you "snap" the can tight and then leave it, because if you sit there and bear down on the thing to tighten it more you're then applying torque that will loosen the threads between the booster assembly and the tube.

Since you're using a SIG factory barrel, the piston will index on the muzzle face, and not on the thread shoulder. You can run a small viton O-ring at the rear of the threads which will hold the can in place and keep it from un-threading. The thread spec on those barrels is designed for this purpose. IIRC an M1x12 will fit properly, like these:

u/kestrelbike · 3 pointsr/NFA

In my experience, 85% of "gunsmiths" are FUDDs. I've had some who refused to remove the pin & weld on a *stripped* barrel (it was not even connected to an upper, even though that wouldn't have made a difference because the lower is serialized/the firearm) because it would have violated the NFA. And he was extremely popular in the area and a complete koala-dick prick.

Meanwhile, I know a guy who supposedly took an AK to have the barrel chopped when it was still connected to the serialized receiver... and technically that'd make the gunsmith the maker and not the dude who had done the Form 1.

I know it's not what you're looking to do, but I strongly suggest you treat yourself to some self-education and invest in a torque wrench ( ) and also a do-all tapco wrench (yes Tapco, but the wrench is GTG: Sadly, amazon doesn't have it atm). With these two things, you will be able to master your upper receiver/barrel group life.

Then, YouTube has all the videos you need on replacing the barrel It's very much not that difficult.

It's worth it, I promise. You'll pay that much anyways just for one barrel change. And you can do it yourself, for the first time, in just 2 hours to account for the hemming/hawwing. Afterwards, with experience, it takes ~20min (removing the handguard, replacing, etc.).

u/heckofagator · 3 pointsr/NFA

Got this

And then of course the free cards from the ATF.

Practiced on another piece of paper a few times and then rolled out 2 cards.

My local PD will print them for $10 each but this is much more convenient and of course cost effective

u/turnoffable · 1 pointr/NFA

I didn't know that existed... used the Super Black "Flat Black" instead.. it's not a good match which is why I covered most of the flare. This is what I used.. I'm still looking for a better match in case I need to cover something more visible... Although so far I don't mind the dings/scratches I'm getting on My ARs or my suppressors. It just shows I use them.

u/Semper1371 · 3 pointsr/NFA

Not OP, but this is the one I ordered and I have been approved by ATF with prints sent using this ink. It’s small so you can only do one finger at a time so the last “all finger” boxes can be tricky if you’re slow as molasses.

Also order your FD258s from the ATF. Order a few dozen to practice with and ensure you’re getting something out of that $200 infringement tax stamp.

u/mattybo22 · 4 pointsr/NFA

I went with Bosch Cobalt bits rather than that set above :

I think these should work better, have one for my pilot hole (17/64) and one for my larger hole 27/64 Also got a 13/32 for the last baffles and will probably use it on the endcap as well.

u/scul86 · 8 pointsr/NFA


Buy an 'inkless pad' and (optional) card holder on Amazon, get free cards directly from the ATF, and do your own cards quickly and cheaply.

source: done this for my last 4 approved stamps.

u/some_kid6 · 2 pointsr/NFA

I just did them myself for like 40 cents each.


u/richalex2010 · 2 pointsr/NFA

This pad works well. Keep your fingers clean after printing and order spare cards though, I messed one or two up by forgetting that my fingers were still "inky" when I moved the card. The cards are free from ATF though, so order a bunch and keep them around for later stamps.

funded with the taxes you're paying anyways

u/Ixliam · 3 pointsr/NFA is what I used. Add on for $6.98.
I did use the fingerprint card holder here which made a world of difference to keep it still and isolate each group.