(Part 2) Best products from r/OpenPV

I just ordered components to make my first box mod, but have done small electrical work before.

Helping Hands will make your life much easier, may not be necessary if you only intend to make one mod.

a decent digital multimeter is required, as is a Soldering iron.

A Breadboard is very useful to ensure everything works as it should, before you have it all finished and put in the case.

those are all I can think of right now, sure there are others people use regularly though

I've answered in /r/ecr also but here we go again :

This is my one : http://imgur.com/a/wuLIG

Chip: http://www.cloud9vaping.co.uk/epages/yxve46fvrnud.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/yxve46fvrnud/Products/EVOLV-04

Chip mount : http://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/dna40-chip-screen-mount-v-20/pgJYUBZ5?uuid=OqqiDxyeWa70G3vkZc5Seb

USB port , 510 and epoxy : http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/index.php?route=mobile_store/product&product_id=339

I would recommend this also(it was my best friend on this project) : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000L98020/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_r8SVub06947YY

Also you have to check the thickness of your wire . And buy this also : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004V8NHX4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_T.SVub0NF4MN0 and this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00518NDBY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.aTVub1S2GA13

> On-off slide switch - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/612-EG1271A

>The particular supply used is 60W 12V 5A - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HHN1I0/

Awesome! Thanks for the info. If I get some extra cash, I'd love to commission a build. :)

I bought the mosfet from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HKHW9UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You said that my mosfet isn't suitable and I need one that is >= 100A but mine is rated for 195A. Just wondering if you misread it or something. I have another box that uses the same mosfet (things seem to be going good). If you didn't misread I'm going to have to take that one apart and replace it.

Thanks for the great links and info. Those mosfets are 3x cheaper than the ones I bought on amazon.


edit: Yeah, now that I look at my mosfet's specs, the RDS is subpar at 1.4 milliohms but the VGS threshold is at 1V.

67 available, $2.75 each, +$3 shipping to USA only.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YBC64S7RA89NW

For 2S only. Under voltage detector set to 6.4v. Pfet for reverse polarity protection of timer and under voltage detector. Slide switch functions as an on-off. Dimensions are 76.05 x 16.35 x 1.6mm, copper weight is 2oz, ENIG (gold) finish and solder resist is blue.

• Parts: http://www.digikey.com/short/tnvh31
  
  
• Wiring diagram: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tfzxu652u1bjqud/PWM%201590G%20wiring%20diagram.png?dl=0
  
  
• 1590G drilling template: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ndq9osgwtgdluo2/PWM%201590G%20drilling%20template.pdf?dl=0
  
  This is what the board looks like once assembled
  
  Note: Pot value selected is 50K, if you have a preference for another value please find the same model with that different value. The timer frequency cap is labeled as ".1uF*" on the board. Again, select one of a another value if you have another preference.
  
  A spacer should be placed between the tact and board to give it a proper height. Laser cut delrin spacers will be included. (http://i.imgur.com/RVEMTEs.png)
  
  
  
  Alternate 12 x 12mm tact switches:
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PTS125SK85%20LFS/CKN9151-ND/1146883
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/430476085716/430476085716-ND/5209048
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ADTS25NV/679-2305-ND/2344311
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-12x12x12mm/dp/B008420U92/
  
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Momentary-Tact-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-12-x-12mm-x-10mm-4-Pin-DIP-Cap-/351074434692

Thank you for the recommendation. I still feel like I'm leaning towards the less expensive model because I don't understand what the extra 50 bucks gets me. My other hobby is guns, and I go through this all the time with new gun buyers- "Why should I get a glock when a Hi point does the same exact thing (shoot bullets) for $350 less" then sure enough, a few months later they are trading their shitty Hi point for a glock. It's no thatthey are stingy, they just aren't educated enough to understand the greater reliability, features, aftermarket support, etc that spending the extra couple hundo buys em... Anyways, I recognize that I am an uneducated buyer, and I don't want to be Hi point guy!

Can you give me an idea of what the advantages of this iron are vs a less expensive model, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPSX3G?cache=9eadc5f058366bac4fcb6fef6c6934d2&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1406100528&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Also, will a light user such as myself (I might do two okr/raptor boxes and one random repair/small project) really be getting a better user experience and making better solder joints with the Hakko?

so... not much help, but what I did find is that it's a big line of products from something called "Alpine Tech" or "Alpinetech" The ATI is an indicator for that. The part number is listed on the item as well. They also have an Amazon store.

I couldn't find any other info about anything called Alpine Tech or ATI in regards to who might actually be 'making' the switch.

Based on the item listings I've seen directly from them on Amazon, I'm guessing they're a random amazon shop that's not a real business and just buys up chinese stuff and re-sells it (not that there's anything wrong with that... he said as he looks at his shelf full of chinese stuff).

Here's teh Amazon Store

http://www.amazon.com/gp/node/index.html?ie=UTF8&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=A1ZFJY6YSKB3ZG&merchant=A1ZFJY6YSKB3ZG&redirect=true

And here's what you were looking for I think.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpinetech-Anti-Vandal-Stainless-Momentary-Terminal/dp/B00MB5CXKC/ref=sr_1_1?m=A1ZFJY6YSKB3ZG&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1419086456&sr=1-1&keywords=12mm&pebp=1419086481061

I don't see a 12mm version that has the same actuator as what you linked, only the domed version. But I'm pretty sure that's the same back end, smaller panel cut out, same depth.

Would this work? If it will, I think it may be pretty great to enclose it in a vape stand with multiple 510's and buttons. Or am I getting ahead of myself and dreaming way to many dream for brain?

> If you're going to wire Sense, wire it to the 510 or leave it out entirely. Putting it on the output legs is pointless.

Is that to mitigate the voltage drop between the board and the 510?

This is the heat shrink: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z7YC2I/ I bought it as a lark, but ended up liking it quite a bit. I'm trying to find it in rolls now. People have commented they like the clear stuff because they can see the expensive little widget that drives everything.

This is what I used. Score with a razor and straight edge and snap. Glued a piece the size of the SX350 in with some clear epoxy and stuck the chip on top of that. Careful of using too much glue. mine bled a little into the visible area. The only thing I wish I did was get some one way mirrored film to cover the plex with to make it look nicer.

eh these ones i linked a few minutes ago were 4 inch not 6 inch like HF has. I believe they do have the 6 inch.. but more expensive than HF. HF shipping is 6.99 though. Pretty good deal if they dont have it in store.

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1064-Cross-Sliding-Vise/dp/B0000DD0C7/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407771604&sr=1-4&keywords=cross+slide+vise

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4082-4-Inch-Cross-Sliding-Vise/dp/B005W16WT0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407771604&sr=1-2&keywords=cross+slide+vise

I've had good success using something like these to at least test power to the board, the LCD and the on-board switches before mounting the board in the box. You can just clip them to the Bat+ and Bat- and run them to a battery pack.

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-TL-6-Standard-Alligator-10-Piece/dp/B0002JJU28/

> I had reservations about that, figured it would crack without a backing or support.

You are 100% correct. That's not how bondo works or is meant to be used.

https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-50345-Metal-Patch-Fill/dp/B0000DI81G/

Something like that or similar should work for filling the metal before doing a thin bondo layer to make it perfectly flat again. And yes, I would recommend some sort of backing while you let it cure.

i just ordered a Hammond 1591BTBU there are also clear and red transparent enclosures.

They're the same sizes as the aluminum boxes but are transparent and look pretty badass when made into boxmods.

I have owned an Aoyue 937+ station for 4-5 years now, and it's treated me well. Takes hakko tips, and you can source parts for the station domestically. Amazon link here!

I use this iron with no issue

Aoyue 937+ Digital Soldering Station - ESD Safe includes Spare Element UPDATED VERSION!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yCfywb6RY1DA5

What do you think of this?

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1398593835&sr=8-15&keywords=soldering+iron