(Part 2) Best products from r/PrintrBot

okay everything works now! well X and Y are working like they should be. I just have to connect the Z and solder the resistor. I have never soldered a resistor so is there a certain orientation I should be doing it? I bought this resistor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185FHALI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am red-green colorblind so I may say the colors wrong so from left to right I see brown-black-green-gold. Should brown side or gold side be facing towards the wire from the Z-probe or does it not matter?

I have a Printrbot Simple Metal, and I replaced its crappier cable sleeve with a cable chain like all other high-end 3D printers:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Chain-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2. The Play's sleeve is really nice quality, and all you have to do is route a stiff wire from under the base and up through the sleeve.

I've posted this before.. install a heat lamp:

http://www.amazon.com/Phillips-416743-250-Watt-Clear-Flood/dp/B0066L0ZRU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1414695390&sr=8-14&keywords=heat+lamp

Just put it right on your print bed, it will keep the ABS toasty. You still have to make sure there are no drafts, but its cheaper and easier than trying to build an enclosure.

the power supply is fine, but you may need to get an adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DV1Z22K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as I didn't see 6pin PCIe listed among the connectors. The only other thing left to do is run a jumper between the green wire and any black on the 20/24pin connector.

Sweet!

My next question is, do you know the name of the connectors? it almost looks like this (Dupont connectors)

https://www.amazon.com/SUNKEE-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1467660201&sr=8-8&keywords=dupont+connector

Which I have a plethora of, but it doesn't seem to be the same. Have any insight?

I've got a Jr where I've got some intermittent wobble issues. Tried unscrewing my lower stepper motor with some success but I'm fairly certain this should help a lot. I got this guy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HW7190/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's some weird stuff with the power supply, some power supply don't like giving that much power over the PSU connector without a load on the main 12v rail. I had a expensive 600w I tried to use and it would do about what you're describing. Then I dug an old 350 watt it and it works great.
When I was looking into it this one was recommended https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SFJU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I dont have experience with printrbot, but i used tom's guide from youtube to do my calibrating. Just watch his video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

Depends on the software for real time changes. I use octoprint. I know repetier host is really good also. If you do that, just set it as 100 in the slicer, then adjust in real time so you know what your setting should be always.

If you dont have a pair of calipers get these to measure the outside diameter of your filament, that may be why you have to adjust your extrusion. if the diameter is bigger, then it is shoving for plastic in thatn it really should.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451996465&sr=8-1&keywords=caliper

I am a toolermaker by trade, and i actually use these everyday in the shop. I stopped using my expensive ones and just use these now.

When in the same predicament as you, I went ahead and just made my own new bed:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e9mnlufak09vdc9/Bed_Frame_-_Left.stl

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e9mnlufak09vdc9/Bed_Frame_-_Left.stl

https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplate
(1/4" x 13.25" x 6.5")

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DUX5A

All told, that's ~$50 for pretty much exactly the same thing. All you need to be able to do is drill holes in the corners of the plate.

What is your fan setup for cooling the print as it is printing?

I found I had a lot of problems without having a fan blowing on the print as it's printing. I'm currently printing Hatchbox PLA and Makerbot PLA at 195-200c, 60c bed at 20-30mm/s and don't have any more curling issues since I put a full size blower fan in front of my printer. I also use painters tape and alcohol for bed adhesion.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RL3UJA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504721952&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tower+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=31nkUhBj7fL&ref=plSrch

This is the fan I have setup in front of my printer. I start it once I've got the first layer down.

The DC switching supply for LEDs someone else posted is the most common "upgrade" over the ATX supply. They're nice because they can be fit under the printer instead of being the huge ATX box off to the side.

I use this mini ITX/ server rack power supply that is super tiny: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMLXJBG

It's not modular, but I just cut off all the wires I didn't need and coated the bundles in plastidip to seal it all off. Also allowed me to wire in a toggle switch onto the front (running where that bridge wire goes to turn the PSU on) so that I don't have to reach around to the back and flip the PSU off every time.

Don't use safe release. You want plain jane original 2090 blue 3m.

https://smile.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-1-88-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B000A3DQGW/

You might get the safe release to stick with a layer of AquaNet ultra/extra hold no scent

https://smile.amazon.com/Aqua-Net-Unscented-Aerosol-Spray-11/dp/B002K33AFM

Or with some purple no show glue stick

https://smile.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E522/dp/B00178KMUC

But really, you'll want to eventually get a heated bed. Yes, this stuff can work, but you'll spend more on it over time than if you upgraded to a heated bed.

-----

What filament are you using, brand type and possibly color? Got any pictures? What are your print settings?

Depends on what power supply and board you have, but I use an ATX power supply and just used this adapter direct from the power supply to the fan

I saw somewhere else that people recommend using this one from Amazon.

Personally, it's still a big metal box, just in a different shape. I instead modified my PSU so that it only has the six 12v wires coming out of the box, plus the green wire jumpered to negative inside the box to allow it to run. I printed a (non UL-listed) flange for it (but then had to hack the top part a bit to get the big fan to work).

I think that should work for your simple metal. Basically it'll bolt on top of your existing aluminum plate. Don't forget to redo your Z calibration as it'll raise the platform a small amount.

You'll need an ATX power supply as well. I used one for a bit but didn't like the mess of cables so I went with one of these instead. I chopped the end off of this cable to provide a 6 pin output to my Rev F printrboard.

What revision board do you have?

Your welcome! I'm a machinist/cnc programmer for a living so this kind of stuff is right up my alley. there are such thing as your talking about.

http://www.amazon.com/SBR16-1000mm-LINEAR-SLIDE-SBR16UU-BEARING/dp/B019U8OHZ6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1457704910&sr=8-8&keywords=Linear+guides

However it all comes down to the geometry of it. balls being pressed into a channel is going to be more rigid than balls being pressed around a rod.

I bought one off amazon that didn't have a matching connector and just clipped them off and soldered them together.

This is the one I bought. Its not awesome or anything but it works fine, I got it with prime and didn't have to wait for Printrbot to get around to shipping it out.