(Part 2) Best products from r/Reprap

The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:

• 5V LEDs
  
• Raspberry Pi
  
• a powered USB hub
  
• USB webcam
  
• 5V fan(s) to cool stepper drivers/control board
  
  Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVOTVY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the endstops that I bought. My classmate said the middle two are ground, the V labeled one is positive, and the other one is signal. Here is a picture: Imgur Do you know if this is right? Thanks for the help btw.

1. You could replace the fan with one of these but I have not done it so I am not sure if that will work out.
   
2. Z-motor stand-offs are a common upgrade for the folger tech, see my other post for links
   
3. gluing a heater PCB to glass is a bad idea as you are reducing the thermal transfer between the glass and the heating element plus PCBs can warp and glass can shatter. Instead I would ditch the glass all together and get an aluminum plate, once agian see my other post for links.
   
4. I recommend using a free standing spool holder and setting it behind and to the side of the printer and running the filament through the loop on the z motor, this works pretty well for me. I currently am using a storage box with some PVC pipe, 608ZZ bearings and some 8mm threaded rod sitting on top with the lid off, it works rather well for me right now.

Great. I'll confirm with ryan turner what comes out of the box and go for a 24v. I really like your lighting, did you use something like this

You'll have to find out how big it is, most inserts are 4mm Outer Diameter by 2mm Inner diameter and then you'll have to cut it yourself to the same length as the existing one. You can cut a new one by hand and then if that gets you printing you can print out a jig that will help you to cut it nice and straight so it fits better.

I've used the following from Amazon to fix several Makerbot style hot ends:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1G7LRO/

Sorry, here's a link. They have it in longer lengths. Fenner Belts also has them online, but I really wanted to try the clear. I guess it's similar to flex PLA, but i've never felt that....it seems incredibly strong.

Measure the center-to-center spacing of the wire housings. If they are 2.54mm (.1") they are the JST XHP series as the other commenters pointed out out. Usually though, stepper connectors are the JST PH series and spaced 2mm center-to-center. These definitely look different though... is that a NEMA 17 or a NEMA14? Anyways if it's the more standard connection, it's a JST PHR-6 connector. These are the crimp pins that mate to the PHR-6. There are other ones for thinner wires, but you will want these for steppers. If it is instead what the other commenters have pointed out, you will want these connectors with these crimp pins. If you don't already have a crimp tool for thinner wires, I recommend these from experience.

EDIT- just want to add that if you don't feel you have a reliable way to measure the center-to-center spacing (like using calipers), you can always hold up a connector for an Arduino or similar, or an Arduino itself, and eyeball the pin spacing.

In addition to flush cutters, I've found a few different types of picks help to clear out hard to reach support areas, and fastener holes. Just don't punture your finger!

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6943-Precision-Pick-4-Piece/dp/B000NPPBQK

This helps me so much when soldering. I'm not sure how much it would help your specific weld you have to do but it will help in the future


http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Helping-Hand-with-Magnifier/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421774456&sr=8-1&keywords=helping+hand+soldering

Just get a Ramps kit from Amazon and start from scratch. As long as you have the delta configuration for the firmware, it will be easy to adapt the firmware. Cant vouch for the brand, I've I gotten many over the years and most have been ok but if you have a heated bed make sure to use an external ssr, not the onboard mosfet.

Same problem on my folger printer, i replaced with these.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ67BJA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

Its a little work but the best upgrade i've made to that thing to date.

I recently bought a RepRap from Amazon during the prime Day sale.
It's a RepRap Prussia I3 V2

Is everything on this printer ready to go? Or do I need to order any upgraded parts to get it to run correctly? I know a lot of printers need a part or two to run safely and accurately (MOSFET controller, different heated bed, etc.)

What's everything I will need to get up and printing? What software should I get (preferably free) to do the modeling?

I bought something like these and then printed the ducts to point the airflow at the part.

These Amazon ones are obviously way overpriced, I paid something like $3 for mine at a local electronics store.

For anyone who's interested, here's a higher power unit from Amazon. So hopefully he beats this price significantly.

A cheap thermocouple will go a long ways with this (and future diagnostics). I got one from amazing for about 20$.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alternatively - you could just replace the resistor with a 4.7k pull up - which would cost all of 50cents.

I appreciate the tip on the resistor as well :).. since i'm using ATX in the meantime i have one of these arriving tomorrow:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EURESG6/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493894357&sr=sr-1&keywords=4-pin+molex+7v

(Obviously more $$ than a resistor) - I'm going to use the 7V for the 30mm fan.. (5V dropped the sound by 11 dB..)

linear rails can be had reasonably enough. They offer superior accuracy and stability, and if installed properly, last a long long time.

Amazon has a new brand that hasn't got many reviews yet but man that price. been watching them to see how it plays out.

Thanks again, just had time to try out some of the suggestions in your response. I checked and the pulleys are really cranked down on the flats of the motor shaft.

I'm using the A4988 drivers, and my motors are running 12V with a max rating of 1.7A ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716S32G4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). I used the RepRap A4988 page's calculator to determine a Vref of 1.36 for setting the potentiometer. This is based on the 0.1 Ohm current sense resistors on my A4988 clone board. I did I*8*Rs = 1.7A*8*0.1 = 1.36.

This is about a 600mV increase over the Vref that was originally set. Now, when I went to make the change I found my potentiometer stops at about 1.21. After maxing out the potentiometer I unfortunately observe the same issue.

Edit: content.