(Part 2) Best products from r/Trucks

Alright, I've got some of those mods so I think I can help.

Front: Fox 2.0 struts. I have these. While they are decent, they are actually stiffer than I would've liked. Even with a big off-road bumper and winch and skid plates hanging off of the front, it feels like the spring rate is just a bit too stiff compared to my rears. Always have a lid on your coffee, or it will spill from smaller bumps.
Large bumps are soaked up amazingly well. But the small stuff is too stiff, and just feels Medium Premium. If you can afford the extra cash I'd recommend the Icon 2.5s. You'd get the Digressive valving which would help alot. Or simply the Bilstein 5100s.

Rear: I am running stock springs, A lift block kit (Pretty sure it was the Readylift 3"), and some Bilstein 7100s. Yes the 7100s. Remote reservoir race shocks. AK7112R04 is the part number. Absolutely worth it and amazing shocks. Wish I could do the same for the front. For reference, previously I had Raptor rear shocks (plan on selling them in the spring) on here. The Bilsteins 7100s are nicer in every way. Highly recommended. You do have to drill out the mounts for larger bolts: 13mm vs 1/2". And the readylift blocks keep me from compressing the rear too far.


Tires: I have had the Cooper Discoverer STT tires for the last 60,000 miles. Looks like I will get another 20,000 out of them. They are great, lots of stiction in everything short of glare ice. Amazing in snow, the deeper the better. Not too noisy, about the same as wind noise around the mirrors. Plus they last forever.

Here's an old video I made to show how a muffler delete isn't too loud, but it also demonstrates the tire noise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSGtgFvCh7A

I wouldn't bother with a sway bar. They hang low and impede ground clearance.
I don't really have an issue with Wheelhop with my big heavy tires and good rear shocks.

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Anyway, hope this all helps.

That looks like a good kit, but if you want to save some money and retain your stock shocks, you could use this one. It has the shock extenders so your shocks won't be damaged. As for the UCA, you don't necessarily need a HD one, but you will need one that was designed for lift geometry. Cognito makes the best of the best, but they're over $500 a set. But Moog makes an inexpensive control arm that will work - CK620053 (Double check that that model will fit on your truck, that's the part number for mine but my truck is a 2500).

The only way you'll get it to auto on/off is if you hardwire it in. Which is super easy.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6rIPBbHPMWDWA

Is what I used. It's good little camera for the price. The quality is pretty good for watching on your phone..but I found it you try to take the video on to the computer it gets worse.

Just made me chuckle when I saw the little gray box while looking your truck over. Very nice man.

Hi! sorry for the late delay. I have successfully installed a single dim radio. Besides some fun, materials you will need:

-A toyota wiring harness. Anyone will do (1987+) this will take your stock radio harness and allow you to connect an aftermarket radio without having to hack up your current truck. (this is good in case you ever need to go back to a stock radio)

I have installed a JOYING 8'' touch screen, single dim radio. PLEASE buy this unit, as hino's stock holder for the radio is specific for their unit, and does not have a typical radio style / slide in radio harness. there are pan screws that hold the radio in.
Get this radio:
https://www.amazon.com/Android-1024x600-Navigation-Bluetooth-Hotspot/dp/B01MCVP5HD/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491391353&sr=8-3&keywords=joying+single+din

Get this harness:

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harness-1987-Up-Speaker-Connector/dp/B00009UHKW


you will need m4 bolts (x4) to hold the radio in.

You will need to have a grinder to grind down some dimples in the stock radio holder, so the new one fits nice and flush.

Here's some images!:

http://imgur.com/a/lOJOy

I like wheel well covers. Finishes the truck appearance wise and gives good protection to the underside. Not a flashy investment but definitely one I'd make before many others.

Get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539442816&sr=8-3&keywords=genius+boost

Or get a combo air compressor / battery jumper combo. When you need it, and you will, you'll be thankful.

I have similar to what you're looking for in terms of wheels and tires on my '04 Colorado.

Wheels are previous-gen 18'' American Racing AR321.

Tires are 285/60/18 Cooper Zeon LTZ.

The Cooper's are nice because they have an all-terrain look but the comfort of a street tire. Very quiet and have a good tread life.

Good luck!

Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.

Heater

Mechanical Timer

Yeah, I thought about replacing the fan clutch and water pump as I was in there but I haven't had any problems with either so I decided against it until I have more time/money.

But yeah, bumper (top of the list), valence (top of the list), and headlights. Honestly though, the headlights are made very cheaply and the LED halos have burnt out after a year. I've read good reviews about the Spyder Auto projectors here for the Ranger and they look almost identical.

Pioneer MVH-200EX Double Din... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794XZDJB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I recently put this in my 04 F-250 and I love it. Bluetooth, touchscreen, backup cam ready, all the works. Great unit for a low price, respectively. Make sure you order all the right installation pieces too.

I don't know the kind, but it's simply an adjustable-height ball hitch, like this one. You position to the height you wish and run the two bolts through.

Ninja edit: Here's one that uses the same mounting bolt system, but with three ("That's 33% more free, order now and we'll double it!") different-sized balls.

No, don't waste your money and endanger everyone on the road with an illegal HID conversion.

The best idea is to save all that money and invest in better H11 halogen bulbs. No, they're not going to be 6000k white. Yes, they will be brighter than stock.

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-FlexSMART-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410837715&sr=8-1&keywords=flexsmart+x2

This is the best FM transmitter on the market in my opinion, fantastic sound quality, adjust to any frequency, blue tooth so no cord, charges phone if needed and powerful enough to overpower strong local stations.

Can't recommend it enough

You can't. You can, but not with a standard air wrench. Air powered wrenchs with a specific torque are multi thousand dollar tools used in factories that have staff that recalibrates them every month.

What you need to do is find a different vehicle and run out to an Oriellys/AutoZone/AdvancedAuto/NAPA. Buy the bolt and do a free tool rental of a torque wrench that has a 44ftlb rating. It will be a wrench that is 2' long or longer. Looks like this. If its the first time using one, set the torque and torque down a random bolt/nut to the rating. Learn the click and get an idea of what 44 ft lbs feels like. Put it on the cab bolt, sneak up to but don't exceed the torque, get the wrench in the right position, handle it such that your arm is 90 degrees from the wrench shaft, and slowing pull until it clicks. Then reposition yourself so you can make a 170 degree turn without ratcheting to put the bolt into the final position.

The escalades and denalis all have a small factory cooler.
Im running a ACDelco 89022577 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Auxiliary Fluid Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9TRWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y.zhAbN0GW6H8

Because i got a good deal on it. I ran a hayden 689 30k cooler on my denali. Pretty easy to find around 60 iirc.

You can bypass the radiator if you live in a warm climate though i didnt bother, but if you do it protects you against the strawberry milkshake issue where the rad can fail and mix coolant with trans fluid.

The overkill option is the transcool 40k, the performance/towing guys generally run that.

Install for that delco cooler was plug and play basically iirc. Just had to release one of the brackets holding the line at the rad support to move it over. The Hayden one i cut off the stock fittings and used some hose clamps same deal woth moving the line over. I always hard mount mine bc i dont like those mounts they come with

Vette servo is an easy install and costs about $20. I did mine in the driveway... Reduces slippage. Paying someone to install should be 1 hr labor. They should come that way from the factory. Not harsh at part throttle at all, my wife never noticed...but you can feel it shift harder at wot.

Yeah, no one makes anything for 1st gen Daks. They're these.

"Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard 11" - Set of 2 "
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I was looking for some that said 4x4 on them in a non-gaudy way because that's what the original flaps had. But I couldn't find any that weren't in some weird font. So these'll do. Very happy with the quality for the price.

I love this light for my truck: https://smile.amazon.com/Energizer-Flashlight-Digital-Batteries-Included/dp/B06X9QR272/

Incredibly bright, fairly rugged, and runs on AAs. Mine lives in the drivers side door pocket.