(Part 2) Best products from r/Ubiquiti

>How many do I need for this property?

This is dependent on your needs and budget. Are you wanting just to see if someone is outside, or ensure you can get a positive ID when providing the police the footage?

>What is the best place to position them so that I get coverage but minimal false alarms from the neighbors' driveway?

The position is question, but remember that you can also adjust the cameras so they aren't facing areas where you do not want/need to see. There is also the ability to create customer motion zones to eliminate false alarms.

>What equipment do I need besides the cameras? I know I have to fish Cat 5e cable to where they are mounted.

Not sure exactly what you mean, so I will answer fully:

1. Network equipment
   
   1. POE Switch
      
   2. Cloudkey Gen2 Plus (this is the controller for the Unifi Protect system
      
2. Installation equipment
   
   1. Wire fishing kit (as you mentioned)
      
   2. Stud finder
      
   3. Boro/Endoscope to ensure there are not electrical/piping in the walls before you attempt to drill down
      
      1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785H3XR7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
         
   4. Conduit for areas where the cables cannot be hidden (this is also based on your preference for seeing cables/worrying about animals or people messing with the cables)
      
   5. Ethernet crimper (I suggest getting the kind that allows you to crimp and cut the pass-through terminals, which are much easier and faster to terminate)
      
      1. https://www.amazon.com/Shielded-Goldplated-pieces-Platinum-connector/dp/B079CV7LQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cat5e+shielded+connector+pass+through&qid=1566091353&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1N0Q4RzRLQUlQTjImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4Mzk5OTMzU0xFVVdHN1ZMQlJZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzODc0NzZaTVpVTlVZUFhYQTUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
         
      2. https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Thru-Ethernet-Connector-Reliable-Crimping/dp/B07PZL18MX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=32GHESZ91W5XP&keywords=ethernet+crimping+tool+pass+thru&qid=1566091399&s=gateway&sprefix=ethernet+crimping+tool+pass%2Celectronics%2C177&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyU1NXVEJJSk84WFI2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTE3NTM3MktaNllSMjZTRTNFVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzM2NTczMlBSMldDVFQ2S04yVSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
         
   6. Network cable. I opted to use the Ubiquity ToughCable, which is rated to be buried/used in the air. Even still, I used non metallic flexible conduit to run it outside and under my front yard to my tree. Nonetheless, you will want to ensure you have plenty of cat5e cable. Shielded is good, but you must also buy the shielded connectors, and install them correctly.
      
   7. Ethernet lighting suppression (there are many options - I linked to what I bought). These will be installed outside, and should you either get a lightning strike, or someone cuts the cable and shorts something, or attempts an ESD attack, this will save the networking equipment.
      
      1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078PDRW12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
         
   8. Power drill, ladder, and friends.
      
      > How big of a concern is it for the cameras to be attacked if they are at a reachable height?
      
      Inside your porch area? I don't think it would be much of a concern. I would just ensure you have 1 or more cameras that cannot be reached easily, which cover the area around the cameras which can be accessed.
      
      > How big of a concern is it if the attacker wears a broad brim hat and the cameras are high up?
      
      Okay, this helped me understand more of what you want. You cannot really install the camera exactly where you would want to, in order to get a full face image from someone wearing a hat, who is intending to hide from a camera. However, with multiple cameras, you will get features that can help. I would also say that I am interested in getting this the Ring Doorview cam for this exact reason.
      
      Some of what I did, and learned:
      
      ​
      
      I just did my security system 2 months ago. I spent a few weeks planning:
      
      

• Laser scanned the home
  
  • This allowed me to preview the views of different camera positions
    
  • This also helped me find the best ways to run the cables
    
• Figured out the cable routing
  
• Got friends to help when it came time to install through the attic and 2nd floor soffits, and dig trenches.
  
  Ended up with 7 G3-AF, 2 G3-AF-Pro, and 2 G4-Pro
  
  1 G4-Pro just above the front door (This is awesome, as when it detects motion, the blue circular light spins, which makes EVERYONE look up at it. I get a 4k image of their face, just a foot from their nose)
  
  1 G4 Pro above driveway
  
  Both G3-AF-Pro are facing the street and zoomed in to get license plates
  
  The other 7 G3 are positioned around the home to ensure I have 360 view of the exterior of the home, & covered each entry point with at least 2 cameras.
  
  PM me if you want to know more, or see anything. For obvious reasons, I wont post pictures publicly.

You can plug these AP's directly into your router if you like, you don't need to purchase additional equipment. However, if your router does not have enough free ports you can purchase a switch to expand the amount available to use.

You can use either a regular gigabit switch or a poe switch. POE switches have the ability to send Power Over Ethernet, this means when the AP's are plugged into them you do not need to use the included injectors, there is no performance benefit just a cleaner install. You can find small poe switches that are relatively inexpensive.

If you do decide to buy a POE switch double check to ensure that it can do gigabit speeds (1000mbit), many of the cheaper poe switches are only 10/100 mbit.

Do you really need super fast wifi in the garage? Might be better served to just go with a regular UAP AC Lite in the garage, the money you save could afford you a POE switch.

I dont have any experience with the Eero, however, it will still fall short of a dedicated AP. Those wifi mesh systems are meant to be turn key for someone who just wants something plug and play. So if your uncomfortable setting up the Nano's the Eero or even Ubiquiti's own Amplifi setup may be more to your liking. Just remember they won't be able to push nearly as much speed as a dedicated AP can.

There are lots of great guides that can easily walk you through Ubiquiti's controller online if you have any questions. The video I linked has some extra hardware but you can still follow along if you want to install the controller on a PC to configure the AP's, then once there are setup you can uninstall the controller and have them run without it. You only need the controller to configure Unifi devices and to record telemetry.

Best of luck with the new Fiber!

I have the highest available package from Time Warner Cable (Spectrum) with 300 mbps download. As far as I know there is not fiber gigabit wifi available in Los Angeles, is there something I'm missing? The price of the set up is fair i was looking at something like the Ruckus R700 which says it can support up to 500 clients without issues:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MV93Q2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FpptybMH67MDV. Would 1 of these work for me? I am prepared to pay the necessary price for such performance. I was looking into the Unifi AP Pro units but then I found this so Im trying to see what would work best. The Ruckus has a very basic set up, perfect for a noob like me. Though the set up you described above doesnt seem too difficult i'd just need very in depth tutorial on how to do it all since there are so many arts. I appreciate all your help

Disclaimer: This isn't an official plan so remember it is possible that at anytime this loophole could go away at any time. They do not support this plan, most at&t employees will not know about this loophole and will discourage you from trying.

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Go to walmart, target, best buy or wherever is convenient and get yourself a prepaid sim card kit (they are around $10). You might want to wait on buying the sim card until after you buy your hotspot as most hotspots will come with a preinstalled sim card that will likely work.

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Get yourself a hotspot. I reccomend the AT&T nighthawk because it has ethernet and I assume you want to hook it into your existing network.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/at-t-nighthawk-lte-mobile-hotspot-router/6212403.p?skuId=6212403

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Another option that gives you some options for multiple carriers would be something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/MOFI4500-4GXeLTE-SIM4-Router-T-Mobile-Verizon-Embedded/dp/B01EY11K40/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542823404&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=mofi+4500+verizon

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If you have an at&t tablet with an LTE modem this is much easier but if not you will need an imei number of a working tablet. If that imei is for an LTE ipad go here:

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https://dcp2.att.com/OEPNDClient/pages/A-00T.jsp?version=0.13693307204867577&version=0.15959132455818992

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If that tablet is an android LTE tablet go here:

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https://buyasession.att.com/sbd/unauth/ShowLogin.action

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If you don't have a tablet you can generally find an imei number of one by searching google or ebay and changing one of the numbers at the end and then verifying it using an imei calculator like this one to generate the correct check bit:

https://www.imei.info/calc

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You will need to provide them with the imei of a tablet that is compatible with AT&T's network and the ICCID number on the sim card you buy. Once you put in those numbers it will ask you what plan you want. You want to choose the plan as you see here:

https://i.imgur.com/izKRnIG.png

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Once you have signed up just stick the sim in the hotspot and you will have amazing internet access.

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**Note you will be behind carrier grade NAT so you won't have a public facing IP address and you won't be able to do any port forwarding which can be problematic when gaming but it will work amazingly for everything else.

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Also Verizon has an official unlimited hotspot option now but it's twice the price. Might be an option though depending on coverage and if the at&t plan goes away.

https://www.reddit.com/r/verizon/comments/9vy4tw/verizon_prepaid_hotspot_new_unlimited_plan/

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Feel free to message me if you run into any snags. I don't use mine as much anymore because I have fiber at my house now but I have a cheap hotspot that I picked up for portability that I use for my daughter on long car trips or when we go camping or whatever.

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Hope this is helpful

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I agree about the cooling, install one of These at the top of your rack. It should help. Put the probe in the middle of the rack, it will give you an idea of what the temperature is.

Get a patch panel like this , some nice small short patch cables like These , will make the whole thing look nicer.

Velcro your cloud key to the front of your switch, or put it on the shelf.

Always hard justifying upgrading the rack, but I look at it as a hobby, not a task to be completed. So it’s a process, not a chore.

Everyone has something that they spend money on for their own enjoyment, sometimes it’s useful too. Look at it as mental therapy, and it will seem more worth the time, money and planning you put into it.

By the way, that is an expensive NAS!

I've gone a more radical way. My 2 post rack is under the staircase - had to cut the side and reframe it to get the rack there in the first place. There are three cuts: one for 20x30x1 AC filter, the other for access, and the third hosts a row of 8 120mm fans (Scythe Slipstream, https://www.newegg.com/scythe-sy1225sl12sl-slipstream-case-fan/p/N82E16835185056?Item=N82E16835185056, out of stock but it'll give you an idea).

The fan grid connects the rack space with an under the stair closet, so I cut the drywall above the door and installed a return air grill similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Return-Air-Grilles-Dimensions/dp/B0064Q8ZOM There is some passive convective ventilation even if the fan panel is off.

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I'm surprised how cold and quiet this setup turned out to be. Case in point, if you read about USG Pro 4 port, you'll find immediately that it whines like a banshee - but I don't even hear it. Fan panel noise is well below the noise caused by house HVACs running, and Slipstream fans have a nice white noise spectrum which doesn't stand out much. Fan panel is controlled by a custom app, the setpoint is set to 30.5C - equipment works there for over 15 years now, temperature was never a problem.

>this patch panel from Tripp-Lite

You can absolutely do it yourself. You'll just need a bladed punch down tool like https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM to help with punching down the wires and chopping off the tips. It's tedious but not difficult. Other than that, follow the online recommendations for minimizing the untwist of the wire pairs, etc etc. It's all there online for you to read up on.

You also want to ensure the wiring scheme is consistent between the wall jacks and the patch panel, so you'll want to take off one of the wall plates and confirm if the wiring is 568B to the keystone jack like the patch panel you plan to use.

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With all that said I would wait and see what Webpass recommends. They may have better ideas or do some of the work for you. You're certainly not the first person there who needed to redo that closet.

Thanks for the compliments.

And I'm way ahead of you! The cables have color coded collars. I didn't have time to make my own patch cables so I bought them on amazon, and I must say, they are among the nicest cables I have ever seen. These ethernet cables are definitely expensive-overkill, but a major reason I built this system was for fun. And nice cables turn me on lol.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HWQX9TJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I had a pegboard rack set up I used tablecloth clamps to keep the equipment in place. They worked awesome and I was able to easily remove a piece of equipment.

I used zip ties to attach the clamps to the pegboard. The clamps we're able slip in and out of the zip ties so it made it easy to adjust to fit the device it was clamping.

This is pretty much what I had: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E2KDU7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xc8ZCb2W1WG12

But ai like these metal ones better: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E2KDU7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xc8ZCb2W1WG12

A hardware switch bridges ports to allow them to be on the same LAN. A router handles different LANs. VLANs are something both can handle if they both support them. It is just adding a VLAN tag marking the Ethernet frame as being in a VLAN.

It looks like I was mistaken in that the ERPoE is the ERPoE-5, which does have a switch chip:

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/219652227--EdgeMAX-Which-EdgeRouter-Should-I-Use-

Ubiquiti do not appear to have any edgerouter models that have 8 ports and hardware switches, so you will want to have a dedicated switch if you need 8 ports. It sounds like your existing equipment could be used for that.

Ubquiti's PoE is passive 24VDC while the 802.3af standard is non- passive 48VDC. You should find out which voltage your equipment needs. If it is specifies 802.3af, you might be better off with a switch or some PoE injectors designed for the standard. The standard has a method for confirming that the device on the other end supports PoE before it supplies significant power. Passive PoE does not do that. Accidentally plugging the wrong equipment into it risks damaging it.

If it expects passive 24VDC, then in addition to your existing switch, you would want either the ERPoE-5 or a ER-X with a couple of power injectors. If the device uses 6W or less, you can use one injector to power both the ER-X and it. If your equipment expects the 802.3af standard, then you likely want an ER-X with a couple of these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

Note that having a managed switch (or an edgerouter with an integrated switch) would let you turn on/off PoE per port, although it will be passive PoE on Ubiquiti's hardware unless the standard is specified. You also get the ability to setup a ping watchdog, which is great for reliability because it can power cycle unresponsive equipment. It is very bad if you forget to disable the watchdog before updating the firmware if said equipment.

If you have line of site you can set up some 5ghz devices that use AC for faster connection. the nanobeam line would be perfect for this if they have direct line of site. I'm not sure of the exact speeds but I think they can get like 300mbps pretty easy at this distance. here is a link to the product I am talking about, they are $100 each sold by UBNT and $90 on amazon. An here is a link to crosstalk solutions youtube page where they discuss how to set up PtP connections using this hardware.

Thanks for your reply Ben. Yes I have eth1-4 on switch0. I set up a firewall rule for eth0/in that drops all traffic from source 192.168.1.18 (camera IP), which seems to block internet access for the device.


However I will soon be getting three more cameras and an unmanaged POE switch, so I think it will be a good idea to configure a more robust solution than just blocking internet for all 4 camera IP addresses.

Essentially I want to block all 4 cameras from accessing the internet and any other device on my LAN, but make the cameras' RTSP feeds (and admin page) accessible from a certain device 192.168.1.240 on my LAN (which is my Raspberry Pi running motionEye.) Your help is appreciated.

I wanted enough juice to be able to keep the internet running for a couple hours after a power outage so I used some online calculators and made some educated guesses and determined I needed 1500VA. I was originally looking at a 1U form factor, but I found that 2U form factors use "standard" size replaceable batteries. Having a true sinewave as opposed to simulated sinewave output was nice, but not a dealbreaker. I narrowed down my search to this and this Cyberpower: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR1500PFCRT2U-Sinewave-System-Outlets/dp/B003OJAHVQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cyberpower+1500va+2u&qid=1573238125&s=electronics&sr=1-3

The CyberPower was just a little cheaper but I like how this connects to the internet and lets you know the battery condition and when to replace them. And I bought into the APC reputation a bit. So far so good.

moca is the answer. I was all EoP but needed to get top speed to a second building ~200ft away and these moca adapters worked awesome with easily 500mbps.


Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you could post a link to the USB extender you're using that would help a lot. My best guess is you have an extender that just boosts the signal strength and uses the ethernet cable as a simple twisted pair, instead of packetizing the data and sending it over TCP or UDP.

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All the USB extenders I've found that work using the actual ethernet protocol only use one device. Meaning that there's a box you plug your devices (e.g. keyboard, flash drive) into that has an ethernet port, and then you use a software client on the computer you want to connect them to.

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Example of the type I suspect you have: https://www.amazon.com/WEme-Extender-Connection-Ethernet-Extention/dp/B01FHTCH68

Example of the type I think you need for your setup to work: https://www.amazon.com/Silex-DS-510-Device-Server-Ports/dp/B00U9UDSH8

Power over ethernet. I've got an edgerouter poe-5. Works super great, was a blast to tinker with and tune. But over time I ended up getting a poe splitter to power my cable modem. A poe powered switch. One of ubiquity's long range antennas (powered by the router of course) to share internet and movie library with my parents a few blocks over. And a camera. And from ALL of those, just one wall wart for the router itself. The UPS likes it as well.

Now mind you, I never set out to become a POE addict. I just wanted a nice, powerful router but didn't feel like building a pfsense box for it. I ended up getting the powerful router but it had features for me to grow into that I didn't even know I needed when I bought it.

'That pretty much sums up my ubiquiti experience.

But I'm still kinda pissed that their management software is split between cloud keys for unifi stuff and UNMS for edge stuff.

I used a serial cable:

This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/

And I also have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GL3MOY/ but I recommend the other one as simpler since it just plugs into USB and don't need to worry about DB-9 serial ports.

I highly recommend having a serial console cable. Can be very useful if you really mess things up. Not like that has ever happened to me ;)

Take one of these and connect it to one of these and power the fan off of the PoE ports. Also, the fan I linked is a blower fan and would match nicely up against the side of the vent holes.

> This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RHDXDWA/

LOL - nice yeah me neither... - honestly I swear that's the one I bought the last time around but I'm pulling my place apart trying to find it :/ atm

e: Yeah I did! february 28th of this year - i'm gonna go crazy trying to find it haha

I have the UAP-AC-Pro since I can not run wires in my walls.

I tried Powerline adapaters to meh success. I got a MoCA adapter and it works really really well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9Ei1Ab10Y5YFP

Hi, I have some additional stupid questions. As I intend to use patch cables to connect all wired devices via Patch Panel then connected to the Gigabit Switches . I am looking at these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XIFJ9WE/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

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As mentioned previously, I intend to Crimp the RJ45 on all the CAT6 Cables using T-568B Straight-Through Ethernet Cable method .

Questions:

1. Is there a chance that the commercially available patch cables will be on T-568A method ? if yes, will there be an effect if my Cat6 wires are on T-568B while the Patch cables are on T-568A ? or it does not matter because both method are " Straight-Through" Cables?
   
   
2. on the Patch Panel, does it matter if the switches connected to them are POE or non-POE ?
   
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   Thanks in advance

Ubiquiti NanoBeam ac Gen2 High-Performance airMAX ac Bridge (NBE-5AC-Gen2-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713XMHH9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ttpKDbWMB5W0J

I don’t normally have access to his network, so don’t have a dashboard screenshot but details I remembered are in the other thread on this post. At -4, he had -69 dBm and at ~7 he had -50 dBm. This seemed inline with what https://link.ui.com/ estimated.

I’ll check out the mikrotik, thanks!

Something like these?

https://i.imgur.com/LZCmXcS.png

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Ubiquiti-UF-RJ45-1G-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sfp+ubiquiti&qid=1556912526&s=electronics&sr=1-3

if i use that on the XG could i just plug the other end of the RJ45 into a RJ45 port on the US-8-150w instead of paying another $21 for a 2nd transceiver?

You don't need a PoE switch -- most of Ubiquiti's APs come with an injector, and if the one you end up with doesn't for some reason, gigabit injectors are readily available (and don't need to be UBNT branded).

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The UAP-AC-PRO or UAP-nanoHD are probably the two you'll want to consider, especially if you plan on getting 3x3 wireless clients down the road (if you don't have any already). :)

Thanks!

Ports #1-#12 are GearIT Cat6 12” Patch Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIFNH8Q/
Ports #13-#24 (#23 on the POE) are GearIT Cat6 6” Patch Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIFJ9WE/
Port # 24 on the POE is a 6” cable I got in one of the Craigslist lots.

As I've mentioned in other threads, I've had good luck with these TP-Link injectors and the AC-Pro.

If the US-8-150W is too much though, have a look at the US-8-60W. You only get four PoE ports, but it should be a whole lot cheaper.

Official version: https://store.ui.com/collections/accessories/products/uf-rj45-1g-1

Third party: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L--7CbKWG7945

Personally, I would just get an RJ45 module, like this one.

If I planned on driving cams, I'd probably go with the bridge between the two buildings.

Two Nanobeams and two AP-AC-PROs would fit the bill and can be had for ~$450 on amazon.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoBeam-High-Performance-airMAX-NBE-5AC-Gen2-US/dp/B0713XMHH9/
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512

Alternatively, what's between the two buildings? Could you run basic PVC conduit and drop Cat6e between the two?

I think if you connect them all wired, get them configured and then put them where they belong... they'll wirelessly uplink. But I'm not sure and I've never tried it. Performance would also be abysmal.

Do you have coax in your house? If so, you could make a MOCA network and get them wired up that way. It'd be way faster and more reliable than a wireless uplink. Something like a [Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/) might get you what you want.

I use the SFP and SFP+ ports on my UniF switches as regular switch ports...works fine no issues.

Here is the SFP to copper adapter I use: Amazon Link

Here is the SFP+ to copper adapter I use: Amazon Link

Just plug and play.

10G SFP+ DAC Cable - 10GBASE-CU Passive Direct Attach Copper Twinax SFP Cable for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU1M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, Open Switch Devices, 1m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHS3NCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kA5wDb9AKVB5X

I have one of these and it works fine. Just select the Ubiquiti option and then whatever length. I am using it between an 8 port POE and my 16-XG. You have to select 1Gb on each end, same as with optical SFPs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

Am not OP, can't speak to this particular device, but I do use some of their other products, like this guy to power my USG and have no issues with gigabit speeds.

Only the 48 and XG have 10G SFP (SFP+) ports. You could link both ports and aggregate them, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost and effort.

That being said, the 10GTek ones on Amazon have worked fine for me.

Edit: Added link.

That's what I ordered - the "for Ubiquiti" version of this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW2P72V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i use these without issue.

Do you have coax connection on that side of the house by where the Orbi is now?

If so use a Moca adapter such as this
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

Then have the ethernet go into a Unifi 8 port switch then have a FlexHD sitting where the Orbi is now.

Also when it comes to FIOS I would go from the ONT right into your USG router. Don't use the FIOS supplied router. If you have FIOS TV leave it plugged in but only with a coax connection then branch off the ONT to the USG.

I use one of these on my 16 port switch for UL to keep all 16 ports available for network devices. No issues.

10Gtek for Ubiquiti SFP Transceiver, 1.25 Gigabit RJ45 Copper SFP Module, 1000Base-T
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0yHJAbTJ2R4HX

Get one of these, no adapters needed rj-45 to USB on the cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Asunflower%C2%AE-Cisco-Console-Cable-Windows/dp/B00RHDXDWA