(Part 3) Best products from r/Windows10

We found 21 comments on r/Windows10 discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 208 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Windows10:

u/agentlotek · 1 pointr/Windows10

I recently moved my Windows 10 install from a 500GB WD Blue HDD over to a 1TB Crucial SSD using EaseUS Todo Backup's free version. There is a disk clone option built into the software for migrating to another drive. I also purchased a Sabrent USB 3.0 to SSD / 2.5-Inch SATA I/II/III Hard Drive Adapter to connect the SSD to my pc for the cloning process.
It was super easy to do.

u/fresh_temperature · 1 pointr/Windows10

Hmmm. I gotta test those situations out.

>Does it charge when powered off but plugged in and with the battery? Could be a failing charger not putting out enough power. Seen it happen from all different brands over the last 25 years.

How do I see that? The four indicator lights at the bottom?


>Could also be an internal issue on the laptop itself as well depending on how the charging circuit is set up.

I usually keep my laptop plugged in 24x7. Like all the time, and the battery and charger are the original ones. Is there a way to test this out?

>If buying a Dell branded battery, don't spend $100 unless it is returnable.

I'm thinking of getting one from dell.com, they say it comes with a one year limited warranty. However, after reading your advice I looked at Amazon and found this cheaper version. Would you say it's worth getting a third party battery?

u/MasterTre · 1 pointr/Windows10

Yeah, sounds like there's simply too much cable there. Rule of thumb with electrical shit is that every time you move between two different cables you lose some power. So all those adapters are sucking power out of the setup and your computer is simply not outputting enough power to the microphone channel to get a signal to make the round trip. Microphone signals don't require as much power as speakers because they're mostly passive; speakers have to do the work of making noise, microphones have the work done to them.

What hardware limitations are you dealing with that you couldn't solve with a $20 headset? You've already spent 6x what you need to because you're buying Beats, they're mediocre headphones for audiophile money, and they don't even do what you need them to do...

[This](HyperX Cloud Stinger - Gaming Headset - Comfortable HyperX Signature Memory Foam, Swivel to Mute Noise-Cancellation Microphone, Compatible with PC, Xbox One, PS4, Nintendo Switch, and Mobile Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2ZRYVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VG11Db7426ZQD) is what I just bought because my old headset broke. It's great.

You could also attach [this](Antlion Audio ModMic Attachable Boom Microphone - Noise Cancelling with Mute Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MI11Db49A1NPS) to your beats to give them a detachable mic.

Something like [this](USB Sound Card,TechRise USB External Stereo Sound Adapter Splitter Converter with Volume Control for Windows and Mac,Plug & Play No Drivers Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7P0OGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BK11DbDK7NF1H) might help supply more power to your existing mic as well.

Whatever you do, you need to reduce the number of cables you're using.

u/magnakarta · 1 pointr/Windows10

Thanks. Drivers are up to date, that's the big one I wanted to check for.

I noticed that the MSI Gaming Edition Geforce 980 ti GPU monitor outputs include 3 DisplayPort, 1 HDMI, and 1 DVI. Are both your monitors connected using DisplayPort? It's a shot in the dark but I'd try using a different monitor port on your GPU for the monitor that's having an issue.

Another thing, what is the model of your monitors, and are both your monitors the same model? And what kind of cable are you using to connect your monitors to the GPU?

It sounds like a weird question, but I've run into cases in the past where using a DP to DVI adapter dongle works on some monitors but not others, only for the monitor to work fine when replacing the dongle with a one piece DP to DVI cable such as this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9M7UG/

Edit: Something else that came to mind, check the monitor resolution and display settings. I won't know until you tell me the monitor models but most monitors support 1920x1080 resolution and 60hz refresh rate. Blank monitors and flickering might indicate that the resolution and refresh rate is set to something that the monitors can't support.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-change-monitor-refresh-rate-setting-in-windows-2626207

u/Lurk_Noe_Moar · 1 pointr/Windows10

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-1333mhz-PC3-10666-204-pin-SODIMM/dp/B002YUF8ZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473757439&sr=8-1&keywords=DDR3+SODIMM+laptop

Do you think something like that would be good? Is there anything to check on my laptop to make sure it can handle that much memory/that kind?

u/fureddit1 · 0 pointsr/Windows10

>You sound mentally unstable

This just reinforces how horrible you are by suggesting that I'm mentally unstable when that's clearly not the case.

>build quality meaning a better speccd or equal spec laptop with a premium material (metal not plastic), nice display, and equal or better trackpad.

I'll give the trackpad to Apple but as far as the rest of the laptop, Here you go:

https://www.razer.com/gaming-laptops/razer-blade/shop

https://www.amazon.com/Huawei-MateBook-Signature-Personal-Included/dp/B071VYDPF8

But I don't really care about a metal body and neither do a lot of people. I care what's inside and this gives me a much wider choice of laptops than what Apple gives and also, the graphics cards in the top level Macs are a joke.



u/MY-SECRET-REDDIT · 2 pointsr/Windows10

> Have you already downloaded all the files?

yes

> Also, what SD card are you using? Because it seems to me on the information you've provided the read/write speeds from the SD card to your laptop are absolutely terrible.

the files are on my internal storage. well the ones that it downloaded to start the installation. it seems it will use the external storage as a buffer.

this is a link to the amazon page for the sd card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SNLIG5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you scroll down to the comments, people posted the writte and read speeds. its the post with the images.

> Also, according to this review "the right side of this notebook houses a USB 3.0 port". Why are you not using a USB 3.0 device to update?

i didnt try it because i use the sd card as a secondary storage, its where i keep all the stuff. also i had forgotten it was a usb 3 since its always so slow. i just checked it and now it goes like triple its usual speed. it seems the factory reset i did helped it. i will try using a usb 3 and see how it goes. thanks!

u/TheBloodEagleX · 1 pointr/Windows10

That's a really good question. I'm not sure really. I think there's 2 or 3 ways to go about this (if possible).

One is maybe through vanilla Windows 10 options (control panel or registry edit), Two is through your sound driver/card/heatset software and Three is an adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107128-Stereo-Adaptor-Plated/dp/B002N1XMPO/


I'm trying to figure it out now. Maybe check if the Realtek Manager or whatever you have has the option. I'll keep posting if I find a default OS solution.


Definitely leave Feedback about it in the Feedback app. That should be a standard option available!

u/SurfaceDockGuy · 1 pointr/Windows10

Would be interested as well. When I checked into this a few months ago, all the USB dongles were ASIX, Ralink, or Realtek chipsets that did not support Miracast.

This list is a start, but not sure if any of these are readily available in a dongle format:
https://www.wi-fi.org/product-finder-results?sort_by=default&sort_order=desc&capabilities=2&keywords=usb

Except for the ultra-expensive Sony unit which isn't really intended for PC's:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-UWA-BR100-Wi-Fi-Network-Adapter/dp/B0074O0TK6

For a modular notebook, you can use an Intel AC 8265 mini card and for a desktop, you can get a PCI adapter so the tiny laptop card fits in a regular PCI slot - you'll just have to figure out how to run the antenna.

I wonder if something like this: https://techship.com/products/pci-express-mini-card-to-usb-adapter-with-external-voltage/ would work to use one of the Intel boards via USB - Intel spec claims USB is supported: https://ark.intel.com/products/94150/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC-8265
https://ark.intel.com/products/99445/Intel-Wireless-AC-9260

u/Drawshot · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Are you sure the port is capable of stereo and mic audio transmission simultaneously? If your earbuds only have one trrs plug at the end, you will need a splitter to plug it into the separate stereo and mic ports. Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1520468195&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=trrs+splitter

u/CoolVito · 1 pointr/Windows10

You will always have an easier time with both picture quality and stability using a cable vs adapters. Try something like this and I'll bet your problem will be solved: XF TIMES HDMI to VGA Gold Plated Active Video Adapter cable 1080P HDMI Digital to VGA Analog Converter cable (6 Feet/ 1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LAYVT0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SjvpybXY784E1

u/Sharp_Eyed_Bot · 1 pointr/Windows10

Ah nuggets, then I'd suggest either this or this

They are still somewhat cheap and should work perfectly with no issues :)

u/oftheterra · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Since there are a variety of "Linksys AC1200" devices, I'll assume you are referring to this USB stick, which isn't really a "card", as I couldn't find something like a PCIe device.

If that is the case, then understand that all Linksys did was take Realtek's wi-fi chip, slapped some plastic around it, stamped it with "Linksys", and failed to keep Realtek's drivers updated on their support webpage - the last update they list is old and dated: 04/15/2016.

Install these drivers as they are the the most up-to-date ones for your device:

  • Realtek Wireless LAN USB - rtwlanu.sys - Oct 26, 2016 - 1030.11.0503.2016

    Note: the drivers I linked are very new and for some reason Chrome blocked my download of them - so use Edge or something else to grab them.

    Note 2: follow this guide to install these drivers manually as they don't come with an installer/.exe

    Note 3: for reference, the drivers listed on Linksys's support site are even older than they purport them to be:

  • rtwlanu.sys - Dec 10, 2015 - 1030.3.0831.2015

    ---

    Edit: Also, we can probably get your Dell XPS 8700's integrated wi-fi device working too, but their support site lists 3 different possible manufacturers of the hardware. Please go into the device manager and let me know which one of the following made that wi-fi device:

  • Realtek
  • Intel
  • Broadcom / "Dell"

    If you can't tell then double click the device in the Device Manager > driver tab > driver details > what is the name of the .sys file it was using?
u/lordmycal · 1 pointr/Windows10

I used to have a sata controller that would do what you're talking about. You'd attach the SSD and the hard drive to the same controller and set it up so that the SSD would cache reads. I think it was called HyperDuo...

I think it was something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T264/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This looks like it would also fit the bill for you: https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/store-mi

u/mclamb · 6 pointsr/Windows10

This product might help if you don't find a software solution.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TZR3E70/ "Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay"

I have one and it works great for dual-booting while keeping the hard drives completely separate.

u/Swaggy_McSwagSwag · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Just replace the ram! It's dirt cheap now that DDR4 is out and DDR3 has existed for eons. You can buy the absolute utter dirt cheap and still get a mega warranty and very good performance. £30 for a 2x4 = 8GB most of the time, 35-40 max.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.co.uk/HyperX-FURY-1600MHz-Memory-Module/dp/B00J8E9334/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462713707&sr=1-3&keywords=8gb+ram £24, very reputable supplier with a lifetime warranty.

Swapping it out is as easy as it gets. You know the toys kids have with square holes and various shapes? It's as easy as that. There's a little switch to one side that you flick up, pull out the ram, then line up the new one with the notch and press down. Done. Quite literally a 30 second job.