(Part 2) Best products from r/audio

That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.

These are your best bet in my opinion. They will sound better than that logitech system, and probably last longer as well. With the logitech system you are tying yourself down to using their sub, which means that if you decide you want better bass in the future you will have to either scrap the whole system and start over with dedicated speakers, or try to reuse the Logitech speakers and end up with something sub-par. With the Miccas, you can just add an RCA splitter and a subwoofer and be good to go.

If you want even more flexibility, go with the unpowered Miccas and get an amp like the SMSL SA50, which will be more power than you would ever need for those speakers for near-field (close up) listening.

To save a little money now you could also go with the Micca MB42 instead of the MB42x. The MB42x come with an upgraded crossover and according to most reviewers it is very much worth it to get the upgraded version.

If you really want your system to last a long time, you are much better off separating your components. Get a pair of speakers, get an amp for the speakers, and get a sub all as separate components. That way, you can upgrade components individually in the future without needing to scrap the whole system like you would need to do with the Logitechs. This also applies if a component breaks; you can replace one thing at a time. And even without upgrading, you will still end up with a much, much better sounding system for not much more money.

Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.

Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).

So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.

Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.

Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.

Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Something like the Blue Yeti may suit. It's a multi-pattern USB microphone. If your mixer is worth its salt, you should be able to output from your computer via an audio interface or simply use a line out to a separate channel.

I personally use the Audio Technica AT-2020 XLR version (this also has a USB version) for recording a bit of vocal work, including rap and some spoken word stuff. It works great on voice and acoustic guitars. However that doesn't solve the lack of phantom power. If it picks up too much ambience (which it definitely can) ease off on the gain a bit and speak louder.

A dynamic mic like this Nady may work as well, however this type can be quite sensitive and will pick up ambient noise.

I don't know if your budget stretches this high ($430), but the Electro Voice RE20 is in my opinion the gold standard for spoken word and radio type stuff that isn't a condenser microphone. It's dynamic, so it doesn't require phantom power, it has a cardioid pattern which will help filter out ambient noise and it just sounds fantastic to my ears. Even though it is quite pricey, it will stand the test of time and providing you take care of it, it will hold its value.

TL;DR: No phantom power requirement, not too sensitive, inexpensive. Pick two.

(Just realised the Shure SM58 might also fit the bill, but it won't give you that sexy radio voice. However, you can abuse the hell out of those things and they will still work and ask for more.)

Hope I've been helpful.

Receiver:

Stereo: ONKYO TX-8140 2-Ch x 80 Watts $230 refurbished. Or more +

Integrated Amps $250+

If ever using with a TV: Budget Denon AVR-S530BT $130 refurbished 5.2 with HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0B for 4k switching. Or the recommended Denon AVRX1400 $250 refurbished 7.2/5.2.2 with Audyssey MultEQ XT.

More at Crutchfield.com. Best customer service and free live USA tech support for all purchases.

Mini Amp: For desktop, low budget, or don't have the space for a full size receiver.

F900 Mini Bluetooth Amp AUX/USB/Bluetooth $33, Kinter K2020A $33, Dayton Audio DTA-120BT $75, Micca OriGain $80 or $100 with USB DAC,

Speakers: AverageJoe's Speaker Recs, r/HTBuyingGuide Speaker Recs

Internet Manufacturer Direct for a good bang for the buck with 30 day in home trials so you can demo 2 or 3.

Ascend CBM-170 $300 + $30 shipping. Factory direct from California. 30 day in home trials. Neutral sound with a flat frequency response. Best budget audiophile and home theater speakers I have found and own for 50/50 music and movies under $500. Great highs, mids and lows. Nothing missing, nothing overly accentuated.

Philharmonic AAPM $290 + shipping. 14 day in home trial. They have a newly upgraded tweeter and have one of the best low ends of 6.5" speakers in the price range and don't necessarily need a subwoofer for music or right away for home theater

On sale, Wavecrest Audio HVL-1, order on sale here at Ascend $80 each + shipping. Comparable to the popular KEF Q100.

DIY: C-notes $100 or Classix II MT Bookshelf Speaker Kit with Knock-Down Cabinet $232. More at diysoundgroup.com or madisoundspeakerstore.com

On sale, Polk Audio Signature S20 $260.

Under $100:

Popular starter speakers: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR 4" Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) $68 or if sale is over, PIONEERSP-BS22-LR $90

Clearance budget speakers: Dual 5.25" Polk Audio Monitor 40 Series $100, Polk Audio T15 $50

Speaker Wire, Cables, Stands

Speaker wire and self adjusting wire strippers or basic.

Blue Jeans cables and speaker wire.

Stands: Monolith by Monoprice $50 to $70 each, about half the cost of Pangea Audio stands which they seem to be clones of, and are fill-able with lead shot or sand. Sanus Basics or more at Audio Advisor.

Speaker Placement: Stereo Music Listening, Home Theate

Subwoofer

10": Open box SVS PB1000 $420 shipped. 10" HSU VTF-1 MK3 $455 shipped and may go on sale again for $30 less.

12": HSU VTF-2 MK5 $580 shipped on sale. Rythmik LV12F front ported, $550 shipped, when it becomes available in December (currently shown is the older rear ported version).

Low budget: Dayton Sub1200 $128, Dayton Audio SUB-1500 $178, BIC F12 $210 all with $10 off coupon or Bic-Acoustech-PL-200 $300.

Music Streaming

Chromecast Audio $35 or a used Airport Express for Apple Airplay.

And ... you Need a Volume Control ... and you might need Tone Controls ...and you might need a Phono Equalization Pre-Amp (Phono Input, or separate Phono Pre-Amp).

The Yamaha WXC-50 Streamer/Pre-Amp has 1xOptical Input, 1xAUX input, and 1x Network Input. And it has a USB connection for (I think) USB-Media. Because the analog input is just an AUX, you would need an external PHONO Pre-Amp to mate your turntable to the Stereo Pre-Amp.

External Phono Equalization Pre-Amps are not free but they are not exceptionally expensive either -

https://www.parts-express.com/rolls-vp29-phono-preamp--245-035

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_252PBMMB/Pro-Ject-Phono-Box-MM.html

Of course, like anything in Audio, you can spend substantially more, but these would get the job done. The second Phono Pre-Amp above is made by PROJECT which makes a wide range of Turntables.

The Emotiva PT-100 has MM/MC Phono In which you probably need, Tone Controls (I believe) and it has a DAC, and FM Tuner.

Though there are other uses, most use the Optical Input to connect a TV (sometimes a computer or CD/BluRay Player) to the Pre-Amp for listening to TV/Movies. You may not need that now, but you might need it in the future. Don't be short sighted.

You can add a DAC to any Amp for between $20 and about $400, depending on how far you want to take it. The FIIO D3 24b/192k for $20, this is generally considered pretty good for the money. Runs off USB.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/

Like everything else, you can spend substantially more -

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-100-Black/dp/B0078Q35PG/

I still say, the EMOTIVA PT-100 most closely does what you need and at a modest $300. Again, at a later date, you can add a DAC to it if you find that you need one.

There are just so few Pre-Amps under $1000. I think these are the best you are likely to find, but again, which you choose depends on what you need the Pre-Amp to do. For just a Turntable, the EMOTIVA PT-100 has a PHONO Input, and should the need arise, it has a DAC. But it does not have Network Streaming. But it would be an out of the box solution for a turntable.

About getting an amplifier:
A power amplifier is basically a device that converts a low power signal to one that is directly fed to the drivers of a loudspeaker, otherwise you wouldn't get any sound ('mic level' and 'line level' signals are too low for loudspeakers)!

Since the B112D is a powered loudspeaker, the amplifier is included in the unit. This means you don't have to go out an buy one separately.

About getting a mixer:
A mixer is a device that takes multiple audio inputs, performs some modifications to the signal (e.g. equaliser, compressor), combines the signals, then spits it out.

You don't really need a mixer if you only have one audio source (sounds like you'll only need one since you're planning to use it for music). Even if you're hoping to mix several sources, the unit itself has individually adjustable gain settings for two discrete inputs. If you need any more than two inputs, the Behringer Xenyx 802 should suffice.

If you're hoping to get a mixer to use multiple speakers, you can simply daisy-chain the speakers together (this means you won't get any stereo separation but 1. it's a pool party, who cares and 2. you probably won't get a stereo signal anyway if you use most mixers). Plug the main input into 'Input 1', then connect your second speaker to the first by connecting an XLR cable to 'Mix Out' on the first speaker, to 'Input 1' on the second.

My advice would be to go out and buy a 3.5mm to XLR male cable, and use that to connect your phone/computer to 'Input 1' on the speaker. If you have a second set, follow the instructions for daisy-chaining above. Do that for however many speakers you have. Good luck!

You need a 3.5mm stereo TRS to stereo RCA adapter. They're extremely common, should be very easy to find. Just like this, but I'm sure there are other options for cheaper. That's just the first link that popped up. (And actually, I recognize those plugs as being not the best. It's better when the four leaves of the outer ring of the RCA plug don't come full circle around, they spring in and out and grip better that way. Funny thing is that style tends to be cheaper, so look around a bit yourself.)

Don't listen to the other guy telling you to buy a DAC for plugging into some cheap boombox. That's like putting a spoiler and spinning rims on a Prius. Your motherboard's output audio is just fine for that gear. (Honestly, probably higher quality than the speakers. See if you can find a used Klipsch Promedia set or something.)

The is a Behringer Xenyx 302USB which can be found here. I think it can send audio from the mixer to the PC as well as receive audio via USB, which can serve as the audio output of my PC. Also, The 3.5mm output from my monitor, which would ouput the sound from an HDMI input, seems as if it would have to go on 2-Track given the Line/USB toggling. This seems like the best solution for outputting PC audio and gaming audio simultaneously if I want to hear both. I know of other ways to acheive this without a mixer, but it results in static from my motherboard's on-board audio and I wouldn't get the added benefits this would bring, such as being able to control the volume easily and transmit audio from and actual XLR microphone.

Do I have the right idea with this? Will this work? 2-Track input doesn't have a way to control the audio on the mixer, but i'm sure I could just turn down the main mix and volume up on USB to balance it all out if needed?

Is it also safe to do? I don't know anything about audio and i'm afraid of causing a short circuit on something.

Oh in that case I would switch up it

​

Interface - The one you had didn't have Phantom Power (48V), which is required for 90% of condenser microphones, I wouldn't buy an interface without it. Focusrite is going to offer better preamps, expandability, and is just a better offering. Yes this adds +$20 but if I were to compare value add I would say the Focusrite interface adds $100 if not more over the Line6.

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Focusrite+Scarlett+2i4+USB+Audio+Interface&qid=1565645877&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Microphone - while that AT2020 is a nice microphone, I wouldn't be an audio nerd if I didn't recommend consider trading it out for a Shure SM58. It's a rite of passage mic, it's going to sound good out of the box, but you can learn how to make it sound even better. It's also going to pick up less unwanted noise (mom yelling that hotpockets are ready, cops bursting in your room when you been swatted.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM58-LC-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B000CZ0R42/ref=sxin_4_osp1-d1fabffa_cov?ascsubtag=d1fabffa-c2ec-4fa0-ae31-2e07a178f49c&creativeASIN=B000CZ0R42&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d1fabffa-c2ec-4fa0-ae31-2e07a178f49c&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=sure+sm58&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000CZ0R42&pd_rd_r=a40496d4-0539-4f37-a1f5-06c41f3afb62&pd_rd_w=zLA9w&pd_rd_wg=YvsDi&pf_rd_p=c501273b-119a-4fc9-ad78-eda5006b0be9&pf_rd_r=K79XXEN93XVP9C4Z5Q2R&qid=1565646518&s=gateway&tag=popularscience_os-20#customerReviews

​

The boom arm you have will work with any mic so you leave that.

​

If your budget is strict here's a bundle that has the Scarlett Solo and the AT2020, which has solid reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Interface-Bundle-Microphone/dp/B07V4MNBMX/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Focusrite+Scarlett+solo&qid=1565646973&s=gateway&sr=8-10

A couple things:

• What do you mean by Streaming PC? Is it for streaming youtube videos into your house, or is it for streaming gaming videos out of your house? Are you using it for both?
  
  
• Does the HDMI connection between the the two PCs carry audio as well as video?
  
  
• What's an AT2020? It's in your diagram, but not listed here.
  
  
• Out to MIC does not make sense. A microphone is an input. Do you mean out to headphones (or a gaming headset with integrated headphones and microphone)?
  
  
• (Related to the question above) Do you have speakers or a headset? Where are they plugged in?
  
  
• What model of audio mixer are you using? They differ hugely between models. Chances are that the USB connection on yours is bidirection, so audio from your gaming computer can come out of the mixer, but audio that's in the mixer can also go into the computer.
  
  
• Final question: How are the people in your discord party hearing the audio when you play a youtube video? Are they hearing it through your microphone?
  
  [Edit] After a quick googling, this is your mic, right? AT2020
  
  And you're using a Yamaha MG10XU mixer, right? This is the manual for it (PDF) Assuming you have your headphones plugged into the mixer where you labeled MIC, and that you're using the mixer as your microphone's input to your gaming computer, the problem that you're running into is that the computer and your headphones will always get the same audio.
  
  That Yamaha has kind of a "dumb" USB audio interface built into it: It only has one stereo channel output that goes to the computer. That same stereo channel is the one that's referred to as "ST" on the board, and in the manual, and is controlled by the knob marked STEREO at the bottom right of the board. Effectively, there are a bunch of ways to get audio out of that mixer (the couple pairs of outputs on the top that you can connect to an amplifier, the headphone jack, and the USB interface), but there's only one thing you can get with them: the ST channel. Every input that you connect to the board: the microphone, the streaming computer, etc, will get combined into that one stereo channel. The gaming computer is the notable exception. The board must have some kind of logic to prevent summing the USB input back into the USB output.
  
  Some higher-end (and more expensive) mixers will have USB audio interfaces with many channels. Some even will allow you to pick off every single input that the mixer has, and output it individually to the computer. Unfortunately, since this board does not do that, you either need to return it and get something that works better for you, use it a bit differently, or get another piece of equipment that will work alongside the board.
  
  If you keep the board, you need to decide whether you want to use it to connect the microphone to your gaming computer, or whether you want to use it to mix together the outputs from your two computers into your headphones. It cannot do both without combining all of the audio together like it's doing now.

Fellow Panasonic plasma owner here.


You're gonna need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter) to change the digital signal from the TV (over the Toslink cable) into an analog audio signal over red and white RCA cables. The way I see it you have 2 options.




Powered Speaker Option - $428

• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  Digital conversion is a pretty mature technology. You don't need to spend any more than this on a DAC.
  
  
  
• Audioengine A5+ $400
  
  
  If you don't want a receiver, these are the #1 most recommended and well-reviewed powered speaker pair around.
  
  
  Passive Speaker Option - $268
  
  
  
• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  
  See above.
  
  
  
• Yamaha stereo receiver - $150
  
  
  Not a home theater receiver just two nice big amplifiers and some basic switching capability. You can control the volume with your cable box remote or buy a cheap Harmony universal remote they're really fantastic.
  
  
  
• Pioneer bookshelf speakers - $90
  
  
  One of the most highly recommended bookshelf speaker pairs to come around in a long time.

It hasn't steered me wrong yet, it also has the bass knob too you were talking about. There's an aux jack in the right speaker and also the sub. It has pretty good clarity with no audible hissing or anything. I'd recommend it! It's not big or clunky, but has some pretty great quality for the size.

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

HD650 are 300 ohm headphones, give them a proper headphone amp. You can get the Schitt DAC, but don't cheap on the amp to power them. I've had HD650 for years and tried them on magni and it's not powerful enough to let those headphones sing also you can hook up some bookshelf speakers to it so doubles as a speaker amp.

https://emotiva.com/products/a-100

Z review
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKgA6qyOCWQ

Asus Xonar is ok but how about a Focusrite Scarlett, has a decent Digital to Analog AND if you get XLR Rode mic you can plug up directly to it and do quality analog to digital input to your computer it even supports phantom power in the mic pre in case the mic needs it. The headphone amp on the scarlett won't power the HD650 properly (you can google this).

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM

What I've suggested cost a bit more but I think you'll be happy with the results, but at very least get a good amp for those headphones.

Soundbars are going to incur the wrath of the users so beware. How much under $200 are you talking? If you're right at that mark you could probably get an AVR and some speakers for a basic 2.0 setup. This would be the best way to go as you can build up a better system in the future.

AVR $110+shipping should get you to about the $130 mark.

Speakers

• Micca MB42x $80 If you can afford them they are the way to go.
  
• Micca MB42 $50 on sale...same as above without the xover...buy these and then add the x over if you need to save up some cash. The x over kit is only $30 and can be ordered online.
  
• Yamaha $50+shipping I've never heard them but they do fit the budget and Yamaha usually does good stuff with audio.
  
• Dayton B652 $50 cheapest you're going to find. The last resort before heading to goodwill...which probably would be a decent option too.
  
  If you still want a soundbar that's another conversation.

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

so you'll need 2 things: phono pre-amp and a transmitter

a quick Amazon search shows no phono pre-amps with an ADC built in, and the only ones I can find are $150+. something like this Pyle phono stage, paired with this Tao Bluetooth transmitter

the 1Mii transmitter may be a bit better quality wise. it also doesn't require batteries, if that matters

I'm sure there's a better (perhaps all in one) solution than what I've provided, but it should work fine and be easily obtainable via Amazon

After doing quite a bit of research, the ctrl out is independent, so if anyone is looking for a solution to this problem, this mixer is a perfect solution. It allows you to independently control the two outputs!

Thanks again to /u/Dodgeballrocks for the help!

This is pretty basic stuff. There won't be a significant difference between the cheapest and most expensive Bluetooth transmitter. Indeed, they likely have the same technology inside.

The "Amazon's Choice" gadget seems pretty nice to me. It can be used as a Transmitter or Receiver, and as a Transmitter, it can be paired with two receivers, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHSX28M

Indeed. now that I did the research for you, I am going to buy one for myself. Thanks for the tip! :-)

I have a Focusrite 2i4 and this thing is very nice for the cost. Great inputs, clean sound, and good hardware.

LOL retail price of $279 my ass. These things went for $80.

They're overall a pretty decent and cheap entry-level 5.1 system. It uses RCAs to connect the speakers to the amp, so you'd need RCA extenders if you need to space them out more. RCA extenders can lead to signal noise and quality loss, but it shouldn't be noticeable as long as you're not extending like 25 feet.

In terms of SQ, I personally think they sound muddy. The trebles/highs aren't very clear, especially when the subwoofer is turned up. It's not a sharp, crisp bass sound. I personally own the Z-5500 (the top end model in this speaker series) and obviously they are better, but you can distinctly hear the difference in the muddyness. It makes the X-530s sound like listening to the radio versus an MP3. Again, this is mostly when the lows overpowers the highs. So if you keep the subwoofer around halfway, it should sound fine.

If you need something cheap and simple, this will do the job. If you're looking for something with better SQ, spend more money. These 2.1 Logitech speakers are THX-certified and offer 200W. Booming bass, crisp highs/mids. $106 shipped on Amazon.

That makes it easier. You can try the simplest solution first, use an AUX cable from the line out on the second PC into the line in on the primary and enable "Listen to this device" under Windows audio settings.

If you want to use hardware, you can get small stereo mixers in varying prices. There are passive mixers that could lower the volume on the stereo channel and active mixers that can keep the volume but also boost it.

Those are the best results I could weed out on Amazon that has stereo channels but I have no clue about the quality of those mixers as I have never used either of them. You will also need 3 pairs of 3.5mm to RCA cables, two for the computers and one for the headphone.

I meant route the signal just straight out of the device (computer/console?), skip the headphone controller part. You don't need the processing in it, the receiver has processing if it's surround sound.

I also looked at the manual again, the easiest thing for you to do is to take the green one only (the stereo / front), and use a 3.5mm adapter to red white RCA cable adapter. They are super cheap. Then run it to the stereo rca input on your receiver. You can still do Dolby surround processing from it.

So the options are:

A. If the main issue is that you want a surround sound signal to your receiver from whatever you are plugging the headphones into, then skip the headphone unit and go: computer -> receiver HDMI.

B. If the main issue is that you want the control / switch on the headphone to work then use the 3.5mm to RCA adapter, so: green headphone wire -> receiver RCA

C. The most expensive option is to buy a receiver with the inputs like I showed the picture of in my last comment, your cables will match up to the inputs, that would be: all headphone wires -> receiver pre-decoded input.

Your best bet would probably be to get a Bluetooth transmitter and attach it to the CD player of your choice. Something like this. It's probably going to be difficult to find a Standalone CD player that has a Bluetooth transmitter in it. You could maybe get a USB Bluetooth transmitter and play cds from a laptop or soemthing. You may also wish to just rip the discs she has into a lossless format, which could then be played from an MP3 player or phone.

In my opinion, I'd go with an audio interface and then monitors. Which is basically what you posted. However, that one would be tricky.

The first thing you did wrong was not post a price range for your project so I'm going to just give you the setup I have.

You're looking for a USB Audio Interface. The one you posted is an audio interface but not a digital one. Here is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466497870&sr=8-2&keywords=focusrite+scarlett+2i2

^This one has two 1/4" outputs for a pair of speakers.

There is a smaller one, too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM?psc=1
This has RCA output for a pair of speakers that use RCA.

Now, these are for music studios so they have XLR and 1/4" inputs for microphones or instruments. However, they have the headphone jack and two outputs on the back for a pair of speakers.

Depending on what speakers you get, you'll want to look at how they hook up - either 1/4" cable or RCA cables (the Red and White inputs).

For example, say you want to buy these studio monitors. https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR3-Creative-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=sr_1_37?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1466498231&sr=1-37&keywords=studio+monitors&refinements=p_36%3A1253547011

They have both 1/4" and RCA on the back. Studio Monitors vary in quality and sound. Ideally they are designed with a flat frequency response so they don't "color" the audio. However, you can always run some kind of equalizer on your computer.

In summary, purchase an audio interface and two studio "monitors" or speakers. It works great for gaming, movies, and music. You can build shelves to wall mount or buy stands for them. You may even be able to find some kind of wall accessory that attaches to the speakers.

Not really without changing your setup. This is the great downside to USB mics and headphones, you have to connect them to a computer making them very limited. So as it stands you could maybe work with some variation of this -

USB mic into computer 1 ---> output of computer 1 to interface.

Computer 2 ----------------> output to interface

Interface -------------------> outputs to headphones and/or speakers.

So you would need an audio interface, cables(probably RCA jacks), and non-USB heaphones

Replace any gear as needed, these are not really professional standard but should work for what you're doing, also I didn't know your budget. Good luck!

You will likely want an actual audio interface.

Behringer has a number of cheap USB mixers. That will give you a simple EQ, gain, and simple mixing with physical knobs. This might be better to learn on?

Edit: for a little more, this one would give you a few more features to play with and learn on, and give you more capacity down the road if you get into it a little more.

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ (or, slightly cheaper in black: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2P61FO/)

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

Update: the radioshack switch didn't work at all. For whatever reason the audio coming in on its RCA video input didn't trigger it to auto-select.

What I did find, though, is an equally good solution that works for my case. Since I only plan on having a single input playing at a time, I can use a mixer to achieve the same goal. All inputs all the time, instead of playing just the one with music on.

Similar incongruous options compared to what I want, but at least options are out there. Most seem targeted at 1/4" and Mono inputs/ouputs. A lot have 1 set of stereo-capable RCA inputs, but I specifically need (at a minimum) 2 sets of stereo RCA inputs. I could also use an adapter to convert to stereo 1/4", but pretty sure all the 1/4" inputs are mono. Here are some examples that might work:

Looked good at first, but complaints that the output is too weak (it's passive apparently)
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40

3 stereo RCA inputs & stereo RCA output:
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6

Has 2 RCA stereo inputs, but A/C adapter is sold separately and it's radioshack brand...
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Stereo-4-Channel-Microphone-Mixer/dp/B0050ZP1OU

Instead of editing again I'll just make another post. I can vouch for the Micca MB42X as well. They are very popular around here and sound awesome. But they are out of stock so they might be getting upgraded or something.

Here is the plain MB42 pair

TV - Panasonic VIERA TC-L47E50

Amplifier - LP-2020A+ Lepai

Analog Audio Source - Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter

Digital A/V Source - Apple TV

Speakers - Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers

The TV does have an optical audio out, which leaves me in the same position as before; as well as a component audio out, which bumps me up a step in that I don't need a DAC anymore, but I'd still need a selector. Obviously that's no big deal, I could easily get one, but if I can be finicky for a moment - I'm fixated on the notion of having the scheme outlined above.

I'm starting to strongly consider the DIY route, and maybe even integrating the DAC into the amplifier, with both analog and digital inputs, and a switch for source selection. Do you have any resources you've used in the past that you think might be helpful for this?

A few possible issues. Are you sure you're talking into the correct side of the mic? It has a cardioid pickup pattern, which means it's "Directional." You should be talking into the "side" of the mic that has the Audio-Technica logo, not the top.

What you could be describing is a mic/line mismatch. Your microphone is outputting "Mic Level", but your interface expect "Line Level" which is generally 'louder.' You could look for a "Microphone PreAmp" which is designed to take mic level signals and bring them up to line-level, or you could look for a better interface. Looks like this Focusrite is specifically meant for mics.

I don't think it's your cable or your drivers. Regarding the sleep issue... I dunno; try shutting down your computer instead of sleeping...? Windows machines can be flaky.

Thanks for the awesome reply. I realize that the unit I linked above would not work that way I wanted it to. That's why I figured I would ask here. Would something like this one work for my purposes? Here is a diagram of it.

So basically I would plug in my mic into 1, turn the level pot all the way down and the fx pot all the way up. plug my pc into 3/4 and console into 5/6 both with level adjusted accordingly and fx all the way down. Then for outputs the FX send would be plugged into my sound card for the mic and I would plug in my speakers to the main out and headphones to phones, correct?

Oh, so i just read that the unit I just linked has 2 busses but in the details it says that it has POST fader aux sends which is bad, right? maybe I should look at something else. Are there any recomended brands? My budget is higher than the $65 cost of the unit above. I could easily go double that, but I'm trying to remain cost effective.

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

does 99$ count under 100$? LOL
those are way better the z623
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Z623-Speaker-System-Black/dp/B003VAHYTG/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003VAHYTG&pd_rd_r=PJQ0XFASJZ3D43TAM498&pd_rd_w=3Qoqq&pd_rd_wg=ks7TB&psc=1&refRID=PJQ0XFASJZ3D43TAM498

So something like this?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LPT8KQA/

Or this, with the appropriate RCA to 1/8" adapters?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00102ZN40/

Note: I've never used or heard of the first link, but trust the manufacturer of the second link.

Or if you're willing to push a button to switch between the two... Again, I've not used this product:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/

Edit: also this little guy from Rolls

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/597819-REG

>Shouldn't wireless audio be noise free? I figure that it should be immune to noise since the audio is digital.

No! You might wanna google that... TL;DR: Wireless=Interference=Noise

And no, you don't need a mixer board. Since i'm assuming you're using a pc/mac, an external sound card will do.
You might wanna troubleshoot first before making any kind of purchase. You can start by plugin the monitors in different sockets around the house, or taking the monitors to a friends house and see if the noise persists. If it does, this might help: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=lp_10981591_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500471154&sr=1-1

My recommendation would be an external soundcard with balanced outputs (~$150-$200)

From pictures of the receiver, it has an "INPUT" knob which is leftmost of the row of 4 knobs on the front panel. It also has a "DOCK IN" input on the back, which seems like it would be the least confusing place to plug it in. And yes, you would just plug it into the RCA connectors.

If the advertisement literally says Bluetooth, ~~ I would get a Bluetooth receiver in order to avoid complications. Although I have never used it personally, this Logitech Bluetooth receiver seems popular, and there are several similar ones.

That will be really hard. You could get a pair of Monoprice speakers for as little as $60. Then drive it with a power amp that you can get for about $40-$60. Consider the SMSL SA50 although it is a tad more expensive, or a Tripath Class T TA2020 chip amp such as the Lepai for $27. If you don't drive it hard, these TA2020 amps sound as good as $1k amps, and I am not even exaggerating. Hook it up with a $20 CD/DVD player and/or a $35 Google Chromecast that will do high quality wireless streaming audio and even supports high res audio.

Edit: The Micca speakers are also for $60.

If you are willing to spend $200-$250 you can get some items much better than PC systems like the Klipsch.

• Insignia NS-SP213 $69.99 REVIEWS Best Buy, AverageJoeAudiophile
  
  
• Dayton Sub-800 $89.00 REVIEWS Amazon, CNET
  
  
• SMSL-SA50 $66.99 REVIEWS Amazon, AVS Forum
  
  Check out /r/budgetaudiophile too

If you can stretch your budget to $280, these would the best option. The JBL's are breathtaking powered monitors for the price: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C

A very good powered speaker option for $180: http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Premium-Powered-Desktop-Speaker/dp/B000VKEFMS

If you're serious about your budget, you could also do passive speakers:
Lepai 2020 amp ($20): http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413670794&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+2020

Teac LS-H265 ($90 a pair): http://www.amazon.com/Teac-LS-H265-2-Way-Speaker-System/dp/B004R929AY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413670989&sr=1-1&keywords=teac+ls-h265

Those Teacs have pretty punchy bass for its size, but if you find yourself lacking some low end ($90): http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-800-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU30K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413671025&sr=1-1&keywords=dayton+sub+800

The final system is $200 total, or $110 without the subwoofer.

This, in my opinion, is the best bang for your buck as far as a USB interface goes. One channel. You can go for the Scarlett 2i2 for another $50 if you want a second input.

Thanks a lot! I have the software, full access to Adobe Creative Cloud, so I'll be using audition to edit. I've had a bit of experience on the software end so that I'm not nearly as worried about.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5Y214/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=CY3NY8NFU4B3&coliid=I3VMBLU3FFDZA6

thats the mixer I was looking at before, but it doesn't have the multiple outputs, or if it has that capability then I would have no idea how to use it. What I've come up with is that I need an audio interface like one of these mixers, which if it doesn't have usb then I'd need a device that would take RCA audio into usb, but I can't find one of those that would take 4 separate inputs other than an internal card that no one seems to sell anymore.

I also saw this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=CY3NY8NFU4B3&coliid=I1FGVEGGKV9LTG

but it seemed like I would need 4 of these in order to get 4 mics on 4 tracks.

FiiO D3 converter

Get this to go from your TV's Digital out to RCA analog. Then get a cable like this and plug it into something like this Dayton Bundle.

The end.

Yeah I looking at getting nice speakers for christmas too, here is what I am trying to decide from:
-https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Watts-Multimedia-Speakers-980-001203/dp/B0151K2AB0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481484823&sr=8-3&keywords=logitech+z533

-http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-z533-multimedia-speakers-3-piece-black/4415403.p?id=1219744554375&skuId=4415403&ref=199&loc=9e1vMmumXG0&acampID=1&siteID=9e1vMmumXG0-DcjM676VcRbzmB1yp8T4iA

-https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_TzntybDQVJT5B What do you guys think so far?

From my experience, I think you should probably go with an external audio interface like this (cheaper options out there, just get one with midi in) and use the midi input. With the asio4all driver I was getting latency under 10ms and it felt fine. Just get buffer size as small as you can without getting distortion. As for playing along, the easiest way I've found to do that is just download the track and import it into your DAW. It's a little more work but I never had good luck trying to use my browser or media player separately. Hopes this helps you.

Here's a cheap mixer.

There are some nice usb interfaces (I like Focusrite) that might work for you. (rather than the mixer). But it will depend on your software.

the headphones im interested in using are logitech g533 https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/product/g533-wireless-gaming-headset
and would a mixer like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6

Try the Logitech Z623. They sound quite very good and the bass certainly delivers. You can set the bass from relatively balanced to wall shaking. They really shine when watching movies.

You'll have a tough time finding something with two separate USB inputs. Pretty much any small format mixer can do this, but you'll have to just come out of your computers headphone jack or get a standalone DAC. Something like this: Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xADzDbER6NR9R

You have the potential for noise. I've used it in a pinch, but long term, not so much.

Have you thought about getting a small mixer to handle the signal and the levels? Using a mixer would let you control the level of your sub separately. Depending on your budget, you can easily make something work.

mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502931763&sr=8-5&keywords=audio+mixer

Cables for mixer to JBL: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-STX-110M-XLR3M-Balanced-Interconnect/dp/B000068NYY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1502931800&sr=1-3&keywords=trs+to+xlr

"FX" output to sub: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-TRS-202-inch-Insert-Cable/dp/B000068O1K/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1502931836&sr=1-3&keywords=trs+to+rca

What is your budget? I personally use a Focusrite Scarlett 6i6 ($250) if you want to save some money you can get the Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 ($180). They should both be more than enough for your headphones and offers a balanced output for the JBL LSR305's.

Just thought about it, you can't have them both connected at the same time. If the mac is on I'm pretty sure that it would output just the mac. So you are going to need a usb power supply to connect the D1 when you want to play XBOX.

BTW. I've got a Schiit stack Modi 2 + Magni 2 and own the Audioengine D1. In the end I didn't like the D1 because I use it for headphones and it didn't drive high-end headphones well also it didn't work in a USB dock which made it useless for me.

The Audioengine D1 has two outputs one for headphones and one for speakers; both are connected to the headphone amp (normally there would be a passthrough port), so you can't use the DAC part only if later on you want to upgrade with another amp.

Considering your needs I'd say get this two products; I would hate the extra-steps of disconnecting and connecting things to play or use the computer also the Modi 2 would still leave you needing a volume control for your monitors.

Schiit Sys for volumecontrol and input switch. ~60 dollars

Fiio D3 Toslink DAC to be able to plugin your XBOX (I'm assuming a high-end dac for gaming is not required): 29.99

The best mic in that price range is going to be the AT2020. I'm assuming you have an audio interface, stand etc, for it. You'll also need a pop filter.

Edit: if you don't have an interface there's a USB version of this mic that is $30 more expensive. It should be good but I've only used the XLR version of this mic.

keep in mind that game and other can't share an input, at least not without an A/B switch or just re-patching. just looked again and saw that 3 inputs are from your PC, right? so maybe disregard what I just wrote. How would those three things go to 2 inputs to mix? does the computer have more than one output?

your mic is mono right? so that's 1 mixer channel.

I suspect the other inputs you list are stereo so you need 2 mono channels for each one unless your mixer has stereo channels. Most mixers have one or two stereo channels to the right side of the mixer. these other inputs ( tablet and PC) are "line level" ( not mic level) so, they typically go into 1/4 jacks on a mixer ( rather than in the mic level XLR inputs)


Something like this behriger might fit your need - if what you need is two stereo line level inputs and one mono XLR mic level input.


I did no shopping around picking this, And I am less than clear about what you have need , so take that link as a starting point

This looks to be pretty cheap and compact:

> https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MX400-BEHRINGER-MICROMIX/dp/B000KGYAYQ/
>
> 1/4" jacks

Another option:

> https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/
>
> RCA jacks (a little more expensive for some reason!)

Wait, wait. You say MOSTLY because youd like to use bluetooth isntead of CDs?

You can buy a bluetooth adapter and cable for $30. You plug this into the AUX connection on the back of your old Panasonic and its not bluetooth! I have a receiver from 1991 in my garage doing the same thing...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQBSW28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504625718&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+rca

Thanks for the reply!

Is this what you're talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_YINMBbCKJFRFH

Quick answer?

[This is a nice, cheaper, audio amp with a few inputs.](
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Natural-Stereo-Receiver-R-S201BL/dp/B00F0H88SY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419943845&sr=8-2&keywords=yamaha+amplifier)

This audio selector should do it. If you have to step down to 3.5mm there are adapters for that.

cheers

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526917149&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+selector

Yes!
Logitech 980-000910 Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Bluetooth Streaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5CJAzb2NQ8NHS

Thank you very much!

Your explanation makes total sense: (in lay terms) half the signal is just being sent into the wrong wire and not making it to the sound system.

Mixers also seem to be the tool for the job if you need to be able to target multiple devices at the same time - and not even that expensive for how advanced they look.

But as you suspected, this would actually be pretty much overkill: I don't ever need audio from the Chromecast Audio and TV at the same time. I am also fine with having to walk over and hit a switch to change the input from one to the other.

Quick search later I found https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3, but this is big for the job. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IVBD7A/ and https://www.amazon.com/4minds-Splitter-selector-Computer-Headphones/dp/B0776JX4JQ are smaller but still a bit pricey.

Any suggestion for small, simple and cheap-ish splitters that would match my use case?

(I will probably need 2 new male to male 3.5mm plug cables to connect my devices to the switcher, I guess?)

To answer my own question, in case anyone else googles this: What I was looking for was a simple mixer with zero latency and I found a Behringer Xenyx 302 USB

Just popped in my mic, headset, USB cable and was good to go.

Thanks, so if I bought this 5 input mixer from amazon it will let me plug in my ipod, raido and tv and let me change audio levels separately, sorry this is all new to me!

Something like this?

For your situation, I would probably get something like this Stereo Line Mixer.

Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_V7TPCbHAHQSP1

You may need a 1/4” (6.35mm) to XLR adapter or cable (assuming your keyboard is in mono?). If you showed me the output cable or ports for your piano, or even the model number, I could more directly address what you would need.

This will also give you independent volume controls and may be a bit more “pro” in workflow.

Google 3.5mm ab switch. Something like this :

2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, wall or table available) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ul.uCbVS1D1X7

That will let you choose what input device you want. You can probably get by with just a Y-splitter from there to your speakers.

You'll want a switch, something like this.

Yes there is, it's called a mixer and lets you connect multiple sources to one device.

I would suggest you get the [Audio Technica AT2020] (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yy6jDbTNXZB49) ~100€ on Amazon (get the XLR version)
And as an interface get the Behringer UM2 U-Phoria 2x2 USB 2.0 Audio Interface ~30€ on Amazon. So you can upgrade the interface or microphone later or even add a mixer when you want. For the rest of the money you can get a microphone stand.

I'm pretty confused about your picture if your going a mixer route though, as different mixers alone could solve all 3 of your needs/wants. Let me ask this instead: are you just trying to switch just your mic? are you recording your ps4 gameplay/sound? (i'm wondering why you want to run your ps4 audio through pc) i'll suggest these items then along with adding a detailed picture of how I'd set it up:

trrs spliter: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

that mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C

1/4 to 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Plated-Stereo-6-35mm-Meters/dp/B01JY2DD9Y

trs switch: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

(x2) 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

(x2) ST splitters: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B07259J93F

PS4 usb audio: https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-External-Headset-Adapter-Laptops/dp/B07DRF9TPC

(x2) 3.5mm adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/

Note: you can get cheaper alternatives to every item i listed from any othersite besides that mixer. Any mixer that has an FX Send/Aux Send will work.

​

https://imgur.com/a/hPTPcnj


you can negate the switch entirely if you just want to use knobs on a 2-aux send mixer.

So, what you're saying is that if I get an Audio Interface (looking at this one currently https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1540419648&sr=1-4&keywords=audio+interface) I would eliminate most of the static created by my sound card?

XLR mics usually require phantom power and a Pre AMP to work with your PC. you might need to look into something like this XLR preAMP w/ phantom power

Ideally, use balanced cables (with a balanced source)

But barring that, just buy a ground loop isolator for your unbalanced system.

• https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-System-Isolator-Electric-reducer/dp/B002YGM5D8/
  

Perhaps you need a ground loop isolator like this.

You might also want to test whether your computer is actually connected to ground.

I think with one of these connected between your laptop and the sub...

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502930313&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5+stereo+to+3.5+jack

...and these these for connecting the monitors to the sub.

https://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SA-Y6-Splitter-Patch/dp/B00DS1NI4I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502929938&sr=1-3&keywords=XLR+Male+to+Dual+RCA+Male

You'll most likely need one of these to extend the length of that splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Ultra-Audio-Cable-Pack/dp/B00MOS5ZIS/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502930083&sr=1-22&keywords=male+2+female+xlr+cable

Connections on the sub.

https://s30.postimg.org/n46ztlpxt/SVS-_STA-300_D-_Sledge-_Amp.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Its pretty cheap but from what I have read online all ground loop noise isolaters will reduce audio quality.

>So is this a multi-channel Headphone Amp something like this -

Yes. Not this exact model and not from Behringer, but functionally the same (it has both 3.5mm and 1/4" jack IIRC).

Sadly I don't know the brand or model. Edit: I'm pretty sure I found it: http://www.artproaudio.com/product/headamp-4-eight-output-stereo-headphone-amp/

>And why would you not use a Stereo Mixer for this task?
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/

I might be missing something here, but this takes 4 stereo inputs and mixes them to 1 stereo output. That's the opposite of what is needed here.

​

>Given the complexity of the Setup, I suspect the Set Up itself rather than the amp are causing the problem

I agree the setup is rather janky, but the headphone amp is and was working flawlessly and the amp received both channels as shown by the signal led indicator that lid up in accordance with the music coming from the pc

One of these, and a few RCA to 3.5mm adapters should have you sorted.

What about [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/)?

You could also get rid the ground loop by using the optical out of the MacBook Pro into a DAC then to the speaker system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JFN1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806328&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=zg_bs_3236451011_5 link for the speakers.

Micca MB42 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wXoByb8XHGCB9

Speakers are usually sold in pairs, unless floor standing or centers

so any old cd/dvd player will work? all i need to do is plug in the RCA cables into the amp?


The Amp

The Speakers

wire

Only one choice here for near field listening. Micca MB42s

Speakers
Wall-mount
Wire
Amp

Logitech Bluetooth Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_vJ8Awb9PVDEVC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IQBSW28/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465828560&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=logitech+bluetooth+audio+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41UR6fEoZTL&ref=plSrch

Those are what are called "passive" speakers; they need an amplifier.

You'll also need some speaker wire and a 3.5 mm TRS to stereo RCA cable.

Use the TRS-to-RCA cable to connect the computer's "audio out" to the amplifier's "line in", and use the speaker wire to connect the speakers to the amplifier.

OP doesn't need the XLR jack for any of this.

​

• 1/4" (6.35mm) TRS to dual RCA from the keyboard
  
• 1/8" (3.5mm) TRS to dual RCA from the PC
  
  ​
  
  Then it depends on what size connector OP's headphones are. If they are 1/8" (aka 3.5mm) then they can plug right into that Rolls mixer. If not then OP needs a 1/4" TRS female to 1/8" TRS male adapter.

In other words.


Turntable -> preamp -> amp/receiver -> speakers

Digital -> amp/receiver -> speakers

Digital to speaker could be as simple as a headphone jack to RCA (like this ). You could also do Bluetooth, airplay, tosslink, etc. all depends on what your digital source is.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3


have you looked at audio input switchers? have 2-4+ inputs all going into 1 box that you can then send a single output to your receiver.

You would want a mixer similar to this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Input-Bus-Mixer/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525617928&sr=8-6&keywords=audio+mixer&dpID=61W%252B4lk8wqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Using lines 3/4 for PC audio and 5/6 for the turntable. Then main out to your speakers. Unless your wireless headphones have any kind of line in jack on the transmitter then I would assume that it is not capable of being used with a mixer.

The speakers I have will only work with speaker wire. There is nothing else on the back except for red and black knobs to screw in the wire.

edit: I think I am going to buy THESE. Will that solve my problem?

Ah-ha. I was going to suggest buying a ground loop isolator and plugging it in between your PC and headset. If the problem turns up again, something for you to consider.