Best products from r/autorepair

Those are both on my Amazon wish list (I'm pretty sure hubby just ordered the set yesterday, but I'll act surprised, lol), I picked the ones in the blue case that aren't so deep, but otherwise exactly the same. I was just thinking about if we needed to use them somewhere with less room, but for a strut bolt, those deep well ones are probably best because it can grip it even better. Do you have a long breaker bar so you can get some good leverage? The only other tool like that I have on my list is this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07115JZW9/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_505xDbSY7TW6V

but hubby has been doing this for a long time and he says these don't work very well usually, especially not for stuff like a strut. My dad really likes these though, but he doesn't do the level of work that my husband does/has done over the past 20+ years. On the up side, it's cheap, so if it doesn't work, you're not out much and can maybe use it later on for something else. Good luck and I hope this helps! Let me know what you think of those sockets since you'll be trying them before I get the chance! (-:

You are going to want a DMM to confirm. If you look at the relays, there is going to be a schematic on the side. I've attached an image. The rectangle with the diagonal through it is the coil. This is standard on relays. Once energized, it pulls in the relay, closing the contacts. With this setup, you can switch a higher power / voltage with a lower one. It allows automotive computers to switch stuff on and off. In this case, your coil pins are 85 and 86, and contact pins are 87 and 30. Don't mind the empty square. It is a flyback diode. No need to concern yourself with it.

Now, what you will want to do, is pull out the relay for the windshield wipers, find out which pins are the coil pins by examining the schematic on the relay, and then using a DMM with the black probe on COM, the red probe on V and set to ~10VDC (or if auto ranging, the straight line with the dotted line indicates your DC setting), and read across those pins on the distribution block that the relay plugs into.

If you read voltage there, something is keeping that relay energized, rather than the relay being the problem.

If you do NOT read a voltage there, read each side to the frame of the vehicle or the (-) battery post and see if you get a voltage. This is just to double check. Report back here.

Now, if you don't have a DMM, I suggest you get yourself one. Don't get one from the parts store. The cost is about as much as a relay. Get yourself one. They are a fantastic investment and so handy once you know how to use them. They will pay for themselves in no time. Personally, I own several. Some high quality, some mid tier and some low. Here are a few of my favorites:

Fluke 115 (around $150, but by far not necessary)

Fluke T-xx (not that great for automotive stuff. Amazing meter, but I would pick something else)

Klein CL700 (this one is around 100, has amp clamp for AC readings. I carry it at work and love it) (Home Depot)

Ideal clamp meters. I just love the look and feel of them. They do well. (get at Menards)

I've also had my eye on this one in the budget range:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JL6LLL/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A2NOFZGOKNP3PJ&psc=1

If in doubt, hit up an electrical supply house and ask what meter they have in the 40-50 dollar range. They can point you to a budget meter that you can rely on.

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/Relay_with_resistor_across_coil.png

>The first question is does your heater work?

Yep, I personally think nicely, but have noticed it sometimes takes a while to warm up, but once warm it's nice and toasty.

>Does the car come up to operating temperature pretty quickly (temp gauge in the middle)?

I have a blue light and that's it...haha, I want to say I believe so, but I really don't know the answer to that.

I'll have to see if I have access to a scan tool. I have access to one that is similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1453314297&sr=1-1&keywords=obdlink but it doesn't consistently connect to my phone.

Thanks for the pointers

Looks like you got the wrong LED bulb. I've tried searching around and can't find a corolla map light bulb that matches what you pulled out. The closest thing I can find that matches that stock bulb that you took of a photo of is the 89LL. I think your best bet is to take the bulb down to an auto parts store and ask them their opinion.

The LED bulb that you bought, looks like the correct bulb that I would expect for a map light fixture. It's also the bulb that I see suggested on bulb sites and in 2003 Corolla map light fixtures. I'm confused haha. Are you sure this is the "map light" bulb that you are trying to replace?

Edit: think if figured It out. I think your map light bulbs are BA9's(https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/63667/IND-0051-10PK.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA3qXBBRD4_b_V7ZLFsX4SJAB0AtEVSHzIzUYLnu8qTJCEQObw2XBwAxRRyGqNcuuOkZF2AxoCga7w_wcB).

So with that, if we search "BA9 LED bulb", we come up with this...https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006RMMN3M/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1479190380&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ba9%2Bled%2Bbulb&dpPl=1&dpID=512vx1AHSkL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Hope that works out for ya! One thing I'm noticing off the bat is to make sure the BA9 bulb you end up getting isn't too long to fit in the light compartment. Also, keep those other LED bulbs you already purchased around. I'm sure they are used in other places throughout your vehicle. Could come in handy when one decides to burn out.

Looks like a pretty good scratch, mostly paint transfer but it may have scratched through the base coat. You can minimize it by polishing it out. Use a rubbing compound and rent or buy a machine. You can also do it by hand but a machine is better for paint correction. Or alternatively you can have some detailer come out and do it for you.

A good retail polishing compound is meguiars compound or 3m. They all come in different grades of abrasiveness.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154
Look at the first review, it shows you a similar situation.

Understandable, and I appreciate the perspective - I would not have guessed even half of those costs.

Anyway, for me it sounds like the $400 all-said is a pretty good option. My buddy brings these guys thousands of cars to work on, so at least I know the guy doing the work wants to keep my buddy happy so he doesn’t screw up the relationship.

Then again, I’m looking at items like these:

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Primered-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-SE-Sedan-Single-Exh-/322191182877
   
   
2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Painted-Match-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-SE-Sedan-/322191176403
   
   
3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Painted-Match-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-5215906911-/321186755391
   
   
4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Primered-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-SE-Sedan-5215906911-/351782480146
   
   
5. https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Fit-Group-RBT760101-Spoiler/dp/B01M7RUT43/
   
   
6. https://www.amazon.com/CarPartsDepot-Certified-352-44787-20-CA-TO1100243-5215906950/dp/B00B9F328M/
   
   Looks like all of them are at least primed, while a couple of them are both primed and painted to your vehicles specifications. The ebay seller in particular has tons of strong feedback and ships very quickly. I would need to look into the warranty / guarantees a bit further, but I’m wondering if I could grab one of these guys and either just install it myself (assuming I got a painted one) or bring it to a freelancer to paint (assuming I just got the primed version.)
   
   I think I will try calling around to some of the local junk yards as well to see if I can track down any bumper covers that would work and are in decent shape. If I do this, shouldn’t I have the actual bumper part number that’s being replaced though? Otherwise aren’t I relying on the junkyard to properly identify the Camry year, trim, and engine? I’ve noticed that there are several different rear bumpers for the 2010 SE 4 cylinder. As you can see above, there’s
   
   

• A 2.4L, 4 cylinder Made in Japan version - I don’t think these will work b/c it doesn’t look like they have spoiler holes
  
  
• A 2.5L, 4 cylinder Made in USA version which has spoiler holes and apparently a single exhaust - I know I only have a 4 cylinder, so I think this must be what I have
  
  
• A 3.5L, 6 cylinder which has spoiler holes and apparently dual exhaust - again, I have a 4 cylinder, so this can’t be it, but I’m also not completely sure it wouldn’t work on my vehicle anyway

The issue for me was that I had a rough idle and lack of power. Acceleration was fine, but maintaining that on inclines was hard. The problem was an excess of air getting into the system past the MAS.

MAS is certainly a good thing to fix. Might also look at the O2 sensor and other fuel ratio sensors. When idling, you give the engine a bit of fuel to just barely inch along. When accelerating you're throwing fuel at the engine, so it probably burns bad, but it's burning and accelerating fine. If you opened up your valves you would probably find them getting dirty, not that this is something you should do unless the problem persists. If you want you can get a compression tester and test your valves it might be educational though. I believe it's a relatively cheap and easy test to perform. My mechanic used something like this.

Anyway, like I said, I'm not super knowledgable about vehicles, but am quite good at troubleshooting. I hope your problem gets resolved. It was a long process for me to trace down my issue. I believe it was the O2 sensor, and that Intake Manifold gasket, that fixed the lions share of my problems, but I also had my valves done between these two resolutions.

Long story short, research, and discussion with your mechanic will ultimately resolve the situation, but just because they replaced a part and your warning light came back on doesn't mean they did something wrong. Good Luck!

what's the engine? It looks like a 289/302 setup. If so, the oil pressure switch should be in about that position. It looks like somebody installed an in-cab oil pressure gauge with a rubber hose.

That won't work so well, and WILL burst and spew oil all over the inside of your engine compartment. If you go long enough with that off, it will run the engine dry of oil :)

you'll want to replace the gauge or the hose with new copper hosing It's pretty cheap.

EDIT: Wait.. I think there is copper hosing in there and somebody cut a rubber hose to slide over the copper hose to insulate it for some reason. It looks like the rubber hose is cut long wise along the entire piece to slip over the copper. Rubber won't keep the copper from melting or anything... so that's a odd choice. I'd remove the rubber hose to see what is under there and see if the copper hose is intact.

I wouldn't make the cables any smaller, I'd try to find a terminal style that fits the cable. Copper wire is very expensive and new terminals are like $5 and easy to change.

With regards to stacking, I don't like doing that. I prefer to crimp a lug to the end of the cable and attach those to the terminals, similar to this: (https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=battery+terminals&qid=1558971029&s=gateway&sr=8-4)

You can also find terminals that accept multiple cables if you just want to poke them in and crimp them down.

At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You want a good connection between the battery post, the terminal, and the cable. There are a few ways to make this happen, and if you get it wrong, the car won't start :D

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Sorento-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL50TA

as others have mentioned, you need to splice whatever connector harness comes with the new radio to the wiring harness linked above. The best way to do this is to individually solder each connection and insulate with heat shrinkable tubing, the second best way is with some 'butt' connectors and a crimping tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50413A-Insulated-Connectors-Assortment/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486664654&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+crimping+kit

This is what I use because it was recommended on e46fanatics forum, which is a mecca for e46 series BMW owners. The Veepeak is a cheap OBDII adapter, and OBDFusion is a program you will not regret buying. OBDFusion will read CEL codes, but it also has logging functionality to help analyze driveabilty problems.

I am strongly against standalone OBDII readers because of their high cost and crappy interface. I bought one at HarborFreight, which was handy for reading CEL codes, and thought it was the shiznit, until I tried the BT reader with Android phone. It is so much more convenient to use the smart phone that's already in your pocket. I haven't touched the standalone unit since I bought OBDFusion with BT adaptor. If you have an iPhone, you will need the WiFi adapter, not bluetooth.

I paid for this program twice, one time on Android, and then again for iOS version when I changed phones. It is still the best bang for your buck, even when paying for both versions.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE

https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

Its not worth an engine to try and duct tape it, sounds like you need a better tool for getting it off.
Most parts stores carry these and they work well. Just make sure you get the right size range for your car.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

I linked to a National Bearing. Bearings generally use the same part number for every brand. Link to Timken below, be sure it fits your car, don't trust my search. Not sure why you would need a new axle nut, I could be wrong and can't give you a educated answer. There may be some stretching or locking mech that would make a new nut safer. I didn't watch the video, I skimmed it for to be sure it would be the help you needed. I'm sure someone made a video in English. Try A1Auto, they're a parts dealer that makes there own self help videos. For sure get it pressed in, hammering it in will likely damage the bearing or not seat properly. https://www.amazon.com/Timken-510063-Wheel-Bearing/dp/B000BZ6YRM

Get ahttps://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Brush-Fiberglass-Colors-vary/dp/B0019V18D2
It will clean off the rust. Clean out the chip area then put the touch up paint(dealer brand)-multiple coats. That will be good for a long while.

great idea. something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Knife-Switch-Terminal/dp/B06XD9344Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503852609&sr=8-4&keywords=car+battery+knife+switch

For now (without this kit), I should only remove the negative (black) cable from the battery, while keeping the positive (red) attached?

I noticed the damage, then tried to start the car. I didn't notice it before when I started the car 2 times prior.


-I'll try to get some MAF cleaner.
-I chose this reader. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJJGSGT/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3F2UU8IZ3AFBC that ok?

-All my lights come on, AC, fans, power windows, locks.

-I'll check the air filter.

-Put a inline tester in my cart.

-Gonna try the fuel relay before I purchase anything.... middle relay to the right of the fuses, I think I read that somewhere.


Thanks for all replying back, I'll report back what happens. I have mid terms tomorrow... I should be studying haha.

-Drew

If you have an iPhone, this one works pretty well. I use DashCmd and just leave it plugged in.

I have a similar issue (which is how I ended up here). I found this product on Amazon that you might be interested in trying out. Read the reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074G2MRLL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2KZ6XKRJD4PLN&psc=1

Get an OBD adapter to use with your smartphone. For example, a Veepeak with OBDFusion.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE

https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

That combo will be far more helpful than any generic scan tool.

To me, it sounds like a vacuum leak. If that's the case, you'll need to do a smoke test. You can take the car to a shop to have a smoke test done, or you can do it yourself with a cheap fluid transfer pump, some rubber glove, and a cigar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I

If it's not a vacuum leak, the most likely culprits are o2 sensor, fuel pump, or MAF sensor.