(Part 2) Best products from r/autorepair

Weird. The shops near you must not work on GM products very often. GM vehicles, 2011 and newer, all require use of a relearn tool to program new sensors. Relearn tools compatible with the “official” GM unit (and indistinguishable from it, save branding) sell on eBay and Amazon for less than $15. I bought this one to reprogram my sensors after the dealer forgot to relearn after rotating the tires. It was quicker, more convenient, and cheaper (in terms of the value of my time) than going back and making them fix it.

The “official” tool is available from http://www.gmtoolsandequipment.com or call 1-800-GM TOOLS (1-800-468-6657). I’m sure the dealer parts counter could get it also.

Looks like the brand is MB wheels, the model being: seven x. It is the only seven spoke wheel available in the black/machined finish.

http://www.amazon.com/MB-Wheels-Seven-Machined-4x100mm/dp/B003SLEX88

It is an older item therefore discontinued. Your best bet is to order online or lookup an MB wheels retailer locally and ask over the phone.

A single wheel is going to set you back around $120-$150.

I'm assuming you have the 1.9l engine? We install the repair inserts on those where I work for $100. It takes the same insert the 5.4l triton engines do that always blow out spark plugs. They are easy to do so i'm sure if you call around to local shops you can find a place willing to do it. Dephaze is right you should check the other plugs to make sure they are tight. I would probably just replace them all while you are at it.

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Save-A-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O/

If you want to try it yourself this is a simpler version of the kit I use. It locks the insert in very well. I have yet to have one come back. You can either pack the flutes of the tap with grease to keep the aluminum shavings from going into the cylinder or you can just fire up the engine for a few seconds after you tap the hole to blow the shavings out.

If you haven't changed your transmission oil lately, then i would definitely recommend you do that asap. (change the filter too if your car has one)

You can also put in a bottle of lucas transmission fix as well (it really helped with my own transmission issues)
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10009-Transmission-Fix-oz/dp/B000ARTZPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484584637&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+transmission

For the bondo do you mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1507462655&sr=1-2&keywords=bondo?

And what did you mean by rattle can? Sorry I'm completely new to this body stuff.

Thanks!

S.U.R. makes replacement line and fittings, many independent garages will have their kits or you can buy them on Amazon or Advance Auto.

If the other end of the line is OK and the line is routed through the body and not accessible, you can cut the line back to solid hose, install either a barb or compression union on the end, and add new line to the new fitting.

NOTE: those may not be the right fittings for your application, select the correct ones based on fuel line size.

They are called "safety torx" or "tamper proof torx".

Here is a set on Amazon.

Neiko 10073A Tamper Proof Torx Bit Socket Set, T8 – T60, S2 Steel | 13-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00078V7B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JvfKBb8SEVS7Z

Thank you! I also bought this so I can remove the clips without stabbing the garnish with a screwdriver:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C4FHM1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would something like this work to patch up the dent?

Many people will say that it will cost a lot, but they aren’t aware of how to repair it. They want to charge you for the whole sensor. However, mechanics have kits that allow them to drill that part off and replace it, all without actually even removing the tire. It will be cheaper.

Edit: here’s the tool they use.
https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-29975-TPMS-Stem-Repair/dp/B01HOXQ14Y

What is the vehicle and what are you trying to remove it with? If you're using an adjustable wrench or vice grips or open end wrench, stop. The correct size closed end wrench or socket will not slip. Pretty much everything is metric now and if I had to take a wild guess that's a relatively recent GM vehicle? If so it's probably 13mm.

Then again at this point it may be damaged enough to not accept the proper size so you may want to replace the drain plug when you get it off. I've had success (gently!) tapping the correct size socket on with a hammer after someone boogered up the head.

Edit.... If it's still not working you may want to invest in something like this (example, not necessarily correct size).

I was thinking the same, here's link for one that might work for you. Do some homework to be sure. https://www.amazon.com/VJOYCAR-Universal-Speedometer-Odometer-Automotive/dp/B07QT741LV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=19E5HH6IMGW7X&keywords=obd2+odometer&qid=1568991033&sprefix=obd2+odo%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3

• You have two problems, your bumper cover and fender liners.
  
  
• Fender liners use little plastic fasteners and they pop out. So the inner fender liner may be missing a few clips. To get the correct clip the first time, probably best to stop at the dealer (if clips are missing).
  
  https://www.amazon.com/50xNylon-Fender-Bumper-Engine-4A0-805-121/dp/B00U8FSCS4
  
  
• Front bumper cover: either yours just popped loose, or you've torn the tabs at the edges. If the tabs are torn, am pretty sure you need a new front bumper cover. First thing is to try to snap the cover back onto the clips and see if it stays in place.
  
  I might add that if parts are really damaged then black zip ties are a handy way to hold things into place. Sometimes you need to poke a hole in the plastic here and there, but it's a cheap easy fix.

Probably cheaper and easier at a shop, but if you want the experience and to learn something new (especially something that everyone thinks isnt possible for some reason) then buy a valve stem replacement kit and valve stem and give it a go.

AME 51025 Quick Valve Change Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K8E9FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YFjLDbH442V40

To be fair, I did use this

http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Release-Penetrant-Spray/dp/B0083V8JP6

For the light, you want a silicone sealant. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419374300&sr=8-2&keywords=black+silicone+sealant

Be careful on the door. Are there screws behind that strip? If so, and you glue something on, you'll never be able to remove the door panel. I'd just do a bit of double stick tape, but not so much that I couldn't remove it.