(Part 2) Best products from r/bikebuilders

I picked up these for my 1981 suzuki gs1000gl build I did this summer knowing they were likely really cheap quality. I have been pleasantly surprised by their performance so far...probably just over 1000 miles so far.

You really need a service manual (unless you have an awful lot of experience ..you don't seem to )
Here's a link to a google docs download although if you're going to keep it I really recommend buying a physical copy ( just easier to use )

Google docs
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FTEOJGj-IVBX3vjZCenO6su2x6sZberepe0CtUMc3W0/mobilebasic

Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/Clymer-M502-3-Repair-Manual/dp/B000GZX312

I don't think it is the same, except in general appearance. Actual Parkerizing seems much better than the stuff I used.

How did you get the handlebar treatment done?

https://www.amazon.com/Bessel-Vessel-Difference-Screwdrivers-No-220w-3/dp/B00E55DL4I/

This was life-changing when working on my bike. I think it's about all the bits needed. Just wish I'd found it sooner so I didn't strip so many screws...

Try using an impact driver, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qzCBDb9KRYWE8

I got mine from am at surplus store but you can get them on Amazon too! Here's a link.

Nice, that bike is lucky to have you. Yeah, since you are taking it apart that is the way to go. If you were lazy and a gambling man you may have got them loose with some taps and some heat and ran a quart of ATF in your oil but you are doing it right. The stem and valve seat on that one might be a little scary when you get it apart if it's that stuck.

A lot of valve spring compressors don't fit on motorcycle engines too. The kind you hit with a hammer I hear mixed reviews. I welded a socket I cut a section out of to a large c-clamp to come up with something similar to this thing https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4572-Large-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000F5ECUY. Also I think the dingle berry hone is better for a quick deglaze than the 3 stones on your bores, that is if you don't have a machine shop do it. Good luck.

That nasty gunk IS the dissolving loom tape.

I'm sure google will tell you how to get through it, but after you do use some spiral or woven loom wrap. Will make doing this the next time way easier!

Auxiliary Gas Fuel Tank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NV42PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gD3QDbCDVGF4Q


Edit,

For many years my test tank at home for carb work was just a 1qt gear oil bottle upside down, with a coat hanger punched through the sides to make a hanging loop, a hole cut in the bottom of the bottle(now the top) to fill and a clear fuel line pushed onto the gear oil spout.

I use Tri-Flow on all my cables rather than cable lubes. I'm not saying it's better or worse, but in my experience it's serviced that need well and it's one less thing to keep 'in stock' in the garage.

The fancier you make the paint on the frame the harder it is to touch up later.
Just use THIS and touch it up later if needed.

These work great.

I was thinking of this one.

SUPAREE 7 inches LED Motorcycle Headlight for Harley Davidson Touring Road King Ultra Classic Electra Street Glide Tri Cvo Heritage Softail Slim Deluxe Fatboy Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS8NK62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yDTCDbHXS5KSY

I'm sure you could do it without the adjuster tool but the tool makes it so incredibly easy. Here's a kit with everything you need for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/P1-Tools-Motorcycle-Synchronizer-Synchronization/dp/B07MJZ1RFB

Also, the vacuum test ports are on the intake runners, not the carbs.

And lastly, why aren't my comments showing up on the main thread? Weird.

This bracket is what you want. Bolt it to the front tank mounts, and relocate all your wires. Don't buy that overpriced crap.

UPDATES!!!

Well on doing more research, turns out there's other ways to skin this cat :).

First, it seems there's such a critter as a "boost regulated fuel pressure regulator". You run a line from a point just before you hit the carb where there's boost pressure into the side of a pressure regulator that cranks up the fuel pressure to match what's going on with the turbo's supplied boost.

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/10/11-boost-reference-fuel-pressure-regulators/

Summit Racing has these critters for a bit under $200.

I'm also seeing references and even tutorials for converting a normal carb to a blow-through carb, such as:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufjKCNCFIy8

I don't see any reason why these concepts couldn't apply to a motorcycle carb such as a Mikuni VM series. Drill a hole in the side of the float bowl, put a brass T-fitting into it, run a hard copper or brass line upwards about 4" or so and then continue that with rubber fuel line to a fitting into the side of the hose going into the carb. That way turboboost pressure just before it hits the carb also boosts the air pressure in the float bowl by the same amount of boost (whatever boost level you're using, controlled by the waste gate). You still have one problem in the bowl: you cannot use a brass or plastic float that contains air, because the air pressure inside that float will now be a lot different than the air pressure in the bowl. That would be bad. So you swap the float for cork, foam, etc. Not that big a deal to rig up.

This float mod would have to be done even if you used the carb chamber concept in the picture I wrote up.

On top of ALL that, there's one more part you sure as hell better have before you try anything like this: a real wideband fuel-air gauge and sensor (sensor screws into a welded-on nut on the exhaust). I don't yet know if the sensor needs to be upstream from the turbo or downstream. Shouldn't be hard to find out. A gauge/sensor kit like this would do:

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-0300-Wideband-Sensor-Controller/dp/B0184TSI84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550616006&sr=8-2&keywords=aem+wideband+fuel+air+gauge

There's a problem with these for motorcycle use: the wire between the Bosch exhaust sensor and the gauge is calibrated and cannot be cut and spliced shorter. So for use on a bike you'd have excess wire to coil up, hide and protect. Or you could just use it for development/testing but...with a turbo setup, I'd rather have it constantly accessible to be honest.

This is what it looks like converting a Holley V8 carb into a blow-through:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufjKCNCFIy8

I see no reason the same can't be done "in miniature" on a Mikuni VM34, VM36 or whatever.