(Part 2) Best products from r/boating

Okay, so /u/pho_king_fast was on the money with Trawler Forum.

Here you go...

But before you go there, in order to not get totally flamed, figure out some things first. Notably...

1. How much money do you have to spend on the actual cruising itself. Go fast boats can cruise at 15-30 knots while completely munching fuel and full displacement trawlers sip it, but cruise at between 6 and 8 knots.
   
   
2. Where are you going to be going and how long are you going to be away from land? Are we talking day cruising along the coasts? Great loop cruising? Or are you going to make an Atlantic passage?
   
   
3. What is the level of comfort you desire? Do you need TV and hot showers or can you live with less amenities? Can you deal with 4-8 ft seas without stabilizers or do you need a comfortable ride?
   
   
4. Are you going to live aboard all year around? Or just a few months here and there?
   
   
5. What's your experience with fixing stuff? Can you handle oil changes and basic engine maintenance?
   
   
6. What's your comfort level with the sea? Do you need to feel like you're in a tank or are you willing to trust your boat and be the weakest link in the chain?
   
   In the end, you're looking for the same things. You need to start off with a solid boat. A good solid hull that's in great shape. Steel or fiberglass that isn't blistered and doesn't have a bunch of wonky through hulls. Like sailboats, a lot of people use powerboats as live aboard boats and as such treat them poorly and ignore the sea worthiness of them. So pay attention to homemade fixes and alterations. Make sure the wiring is marine wiring and hasn't been "fixed" by the owner. You'll obviously need to get a survey eventually, but you can simply look at the state of things and get an idea if anything is obviously botched.
   
   Most, not all, but most diesel motors require major rebuilds between 6K and 10K hours depending on the make/model and age. That's pretty much re-powering at that point so it gets expensive.
   
   But really, powerboats are just like sailboats. They need to float, first and foremost.
   
   The bible of motor yachts seems to be Voyaging under Power by Robert Beebe and revised by Dennis Umstot, now in it's 4th edition. That could help you on the subject if you're a reader.
   
   Here's the book on Amazon
   __
   
   Sound like I'm about where you're at I think. A few years away from leaving the land and getting on the boat. I think we'll end up on a trawler. Most likely either a Kadey-Krogen 44-48 or the Nordhavn 46. They seem like the most capable/dependable boats for what we think we need. Cruise at 6-8knots, 3600nm range @ 6.5 kn, both built well and both have stood the test of time. Solid hulls that are constantly making huge passages. Amazingly, they seem to hold their value over time and they look pretty good too. (after the initial depreciation anyways)
   
   Anyways, good luck!
   
   

Nice! Since its in a cabinet, and its a single DIN, you should be able to find some great options for great prices. Probably so many options it will be hard to narrow them down! If you want built in Bluetooth, you will probably find lots of good options from good brand names for around $99. If you don't want built in Bluetooth, you can probably find nice options for more like $70.

I've had good luck with Sony stuff for the last few years, so I think you would probably be very happy with something like this. It comes with Bluetooth built in, and also with it's own remote for volume and basic functions. Of course there are tons of other great models and brands out there, so I don't mean to say this is the only way to go. If there is something else you find that you like more, feel free to post it here and I'll look it over for you.

Also just wanted to say you are a good wife! Buying a man a stereo for his boat ... that is just a WIN WIN. :)

Edit: If you think you might someday upgrade your stock speakers, and there is room in your budget, this high powered version might be worth the extra money. But if you were happy with the sound of the original stock radio, I would not bother.

Would-be naval architect here (turned aerospace engineer, they're surprisingly similar fields). Our dreams are not so different.

You absolutely need to read - and understand - Heavy Weather Sailing by Adlard Coles. This is regarded as the Bible of ocean-crossing small craft design and has been in print for about 40 years. It's quite heavy text, but you don't need to be a scientist to understand it, just remember not giving up on this book and reading as much as you can will keep you safe.

It starts off talking about the meteorology of storms, the physics of wind & wave formation, and once you understand how these things work it explains how competing designs and different charecteristics of the rig and hull cope with extreme weather, e.g. breaking waves pitchpoling a yacht, as well as fair-weather performance. I read it purely for interest, but I was 15 at the time, so it's really not too hard to follow.

I was going to put key points here, but it is absolutely impossible to tl;dr summarise everything your situation needs. If you can't do it yourself, do the smart thing and hire a designer with a good reputation to help you realise your dream - if going it alone, this book is mandatory required reading.

Overengineer things. Rigging wire a size or two larger than manufacturers' recommendation is more likely to come out of extreme situations unscathed, it's not unusual for blue-water sailors to carry an anchor a size or three over to be certain it will grip in a storm, etc. Read up on safety gear - EPIRBs and satellite radios are, imo, a must these days but it's not all flashy electronics - several spare 600-yard warps are useful in everything from drag in a storm to jury-rigging a rudder to towing someone else to safety. Consider different scenarios and how you'd cope - "the mast falls down and you're asleep", for instance, or "the fresh water tanks leak and there's none left in the middle of the Atlantic". Can you fix it alone? Tools - and the knowledge to use them to repair everything you own - will keep you safe.

Finally, I recommend an xpost to /r/sailing, they're a bit more active. Also find some forums dedicated for sailors (I like Scuttlebutt on yachtingmonthly.com, but there must be communities dedicated to blue-water sailing and self-builds) - you'll get much more detailed advice there. Good luck and don't give up!

1. Wire wise - Amazon - look up Anchor Tinned Wire and get a 25' section of 8ga 2 wire red/black at biggest (radio, plus lights, plus accessories ) but 12ga with 2 wires should be fine for small electronics.
   
   
   Example:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-121510-Marine-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NUYBW0/
   
   
2. Lack of a Switch or Disconnect - don't do this. A) Danger Will Robinson ! B) is not approved by coasties/inspection most places. Get a proper battery switch. Put this switch between the battery Positive and the motor positive and your accessories positive. The ground/black from the motor, from the accessories etc can all go right to the negative terminal on the battery. We're only switching the 12+ Positive side.
   
   
   Example:
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE
   
   
   
   
   I say these things for the following reasons:
   
   
3. you'll eventually wanna sell the boat and upgrade to something bigger. When I as a buyer see things like accessory wiring going right to the battery instead of a battery switch - I use items like that to lowball the fuck out of the seller. It also says "if they did this janky to save $20, what else did they do janky" ?
   
   
   
4. Safety - you always need a way to 100% disconnect electronics. This can be because of a fire, a mystery battery drain, long term storage etc. We want a disconnect from the battery. Now that said - plugging and unplugging a quick connect/ disconnect versus a proper battery switch is a GREAT way to blow yourself up depending where the gas fumes are, where your gas tank is, etc. It's one more possible thing to corrode as well as ignite. Make sure when you do your charging etc you are careful (connect the tender first THEN plug it into the wall outlet)
   
   
   
5. Long term usage - the more correct you do it now, the more money you save in the long run making small repairs later.
   
   
   
   Wiring Example:
   
   
   https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRrykWkGL7Y6N6zwAiDNcYPNvgQglOC4aJx0ntB9qn2Iv_INk1TUQ

If you're serious about that, first off I applaud your dream. :) All of the other comments are showing excellent advice, I would add some study as you begin this planning process. The first step in something like this, is education.

You'll want a few things.

The single most important thing for you on any boat is get the absolute best life jacket you can afford. Personally I use this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019YDWO0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Like you, I can't swim, but I spend my summers on the water. This is the type of lifejacket used by professionals. Get one, it's not optional.

Read this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0071808280/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You're going to come upon a thousand words you don't yet know. Every time you do, google it, wikipedia it, and study it. Vocabulary is the pathway to new knowledge, and the depths of what you don't yet know, will drown you. Take your time, don't get discouraged, and realise that the most important tools for your survival at sea are your wits and your confidence. Don't Panic.

Get this, it's your new bible. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0688148921/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Memorise it, really. If you have to pick any single book to have as a new boater (especially a sailboat), this is it.

This is also one you'll need. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0071829326/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And to begin your engineering education (you'll need it), get this. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0071446443/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I own all of these books, and as we begin the winter this is an excellent opportunity to study and learn and wait for warmer weather.

Keep dreaming. :) You're on the right path. You'll find that most boaters are happy to talk and answer questions. Ask LOTS of questions, listen to everyone, and in time you'll have enough of a collection of knowledge to sort out the good ideas from the bad ones. The more you can learn from other people's mistakes, the easier your boating life will be. The problem with wisdom is that you don't get it until about 5 seconds after you really needed it.

Stay safe, but live dangerously. :)

Ideally no, not dishwashing soap. My understanding is that the chemicals are harsher on the gel coat as well as the environment.

That being said the most popular soap in my neck of the woods is Orpine It goes for a pretty penny. (There's a smaller $20 bottle FYI)

In it's defense though, the gel is highly concentrated, you don't use too much per wash which means that that gallon jug will last way longer than you would ever imagine...but still, $70? Just don't let your kids pour the shit all over and waste it.

I'd also like to add that I'm very fond of the smell of it so much that I'm hoping one day they'll start a body soap or deodorant or something. That's pretty much the one thing that has the edge over a few other boat soaps that come to mind e.g. Turtle Wax, MaryKate SuperSuds, and whatever other crap they sell at West Marine.


As for the Chamois, it really is pretty much the most important part of the process. Basically you rinse, you soap, You rinse again. Soap helps lift the dirt, ash, goop, blood stains, whatever. When you rinse the second (and last time) and leave it to air dry you're leaving all the minerals or residue from the hose water to sit and thus dirty the boat again. You'll see water ring stains from the dried up water droplets on the gel coat, wood, metal, etc. It's definitely an OCD thing but that's how I learned...especially if you get into waxing your boat but that's a whole other discussion.

BTW, an Absorber chamois goes for about $15. The Shurhold Mop is another expensive item for what it is but it's an accessory to a very good and sturdy telescoping pole with very good quality brush heads.

I used to clean boats for a living and after a while you realize that it is expensive to be cheap. Buy once, take care of your tools and they'll love you forever.

Protip: Get into the habit of having NeverDull around. It'll make your metal forever shiny if you just give the rails and other visible metals a quick wipe after you've cleaned and dried it all. The product produces a light haze so give it one last wipe with a dry cloth and you're all set.

Too much information?

Ps. This is the first time I try all these jazzy hyperlinks on a reply. I hope they work.

Edit: had to fix the links as predicted.

What kind of boat do you have anyway?

Woah okay.

First the seals - I'm assuming he's just talking about the lower unit seal. Easy to replace and should be done every few years anyway. You'll replace the water pump (impeller) at the same time. You can do this yourself. There are tons of YouTube videos on this the hardest part you'll have is disconnecting or disengaging the shift cable when lowering the lower unit out. On some Johnsons it's a little clip that is hard to get to but again, YouTube. This is the water pump kit for mine and may be for yours as well, look up your model there. Also you'll want to drain and replace the lower unit gear old while you're doing that. You can buy a kit with the oil and the pump if you want, or oil and pump separate, or if you hate yourself you can use the squeeze tubes. Again, YouTube. One piece of advice though is if you can not get the vent plug or drain plug use one of these impact drivers. Then put some marine grease on the threads when putting them back in.

Yes you can fix a small hole. Rough out edges, apply, reinforce, and sand. It's your call if you want to paint it to match or just a protectant coat.

Tune up - if it runs great don't mess with it. Otherwise spark plugs, wires if needed, carb cleaned, etc. Check the rubber hoses for leaks and cracks though (fuel lines, water lines, etc). Painting it is up to you. There's lots of good fiberglass restore products out there if it's just oxidation. Just lots of elbow grease. Or a polisher.

For a mechanic... I can't throw a rock here without finding a good outboard mechanic if needed. Start asking around a local marina, other friends with boats, etc. Some dealers are good.

For the canopy, I got mine off Amazon here just measure and choose your size. Super easy to install.

For other essentials that kind of depends where you're going and what you're doing. Most states also require an auditory signal (whistle, horn, or air horn) and a fire extinguisher. Since it's an outboard maybe your state doesn't but always nice to have. Also a throwable flotation device (square foam thing that you can sit on or store away).

Not sure I can tell exactly where your leak is from the photos, but I would recommend a weld if you have access or JB Weld (an easy epoxy) if you don't. The JB Weld might be the easiest option anyway. I have used on boats and my automotive engines many times.

J-B Weld 8272 MarineWeld Marine Epoxy - 2 oz
http://amzn.com/B000KKPFFA

Should I do the hydrofoil and trim tabs? The hydrofoil I can get local, but I haven't come across trim tabs anywhere. Something like this ( https://www.amazon.ca/Bennett-Marine-SLT6-Self-Leveling-System/dp/B009L9BTA6/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=trim+tabs&qid=1558630731&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011&rnid=5690384011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-23 )?

If you plan on using something other than a sailboat, then read Beebe's book: Voyaging Under Power

This is not the technically correct fix, but I've used J-B Weld on my 1993 fiberglass boat that had similar damage. It's not a pretty fix, though it would look better on your grey boat than my white one. It's a marine epoxy that I mixed up and "patched" the area. If it's on the bottom of the boat no one is going to see it anyways. It's 20 years old - it's not worth doing the proper repair. I'm on my second season and it looks the same as the day I did the patch.

My boat came with the damage and the previous owner drove it without it spreading as /u/LikesGladiatorMovies suggested. I wouldn't guaranty yours will hold up the same but that is my experience.