(Part 2) Best products from r/climbing

I'll try to knock these off for you:

1. I am in good shape and consider myself a 5.12 climber. The Nose beat me up pretty good. This is not a brag but to show truly how hard the nose is to climb. Most people read the rating and think 5.8 C2...yeah I can climb that. You may be able to climb the 5.8 pitches but if you are truly aiding everything else, you will be the cause of a traffic jam and likely not make it to the top in even 5 days. People bail all the time, even from 3/4 of the way up the route. Pitches take longer and the work is harder than you think. I had done some casual aiding before this trip, but i spent about a month before i left practicing my aid climbing and getting faster at it. It will save you tons of time. Learn how to top step, back clean pieces and be able to switch between aiding and freeing efficiently (a mix of aiding and free climbing efficiently is a very good skill to have). Free climbing is so much faster than aiding. If you can free or french free most of the pitches below the great roof it will save you a lot of time. Things really start to slow down when you get up to the great roof and this is where strong aid climbing truly shines. I went with a partner that had done the salathe last year so he had a good grasp on systems and was a better aider than me. I climbed most of the free pitches of 5.10 and below while he did the harder C2 aids. We did not practice together as he was in a different state before we met up but i basically read this book https://www.amazon.com/How-Wall-Climb-Chris-McNamara/dp/0983322511 and practiced a lot before i got to yosemite. It covers a good amount on aid climbing but you will also want some supplemental material for bag work. I suggest Mark hudon's technique for docking and cutting the haul bag https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWCZ6ahP60E&t=323s. It works great. Haul bag line is always on top.
   
2. The worst thing on the wall was the piss smell. It is something people don't talk about but everyone pisses all over the ledges on the upper pitches of the nose. We peed in our empty water bottles at this point and dumped them out at the top. As far as gear goes, we did not use a 3:1 pulley system and instead used a micro traxion to haul with. With six gallons of water and one gallon of Gatorade....i wish we would have bought the Petzl Pro Traxion to have a larger pulley but still a 1:1 system. Setting up 3:1's is a pain unless you absolutely need it. We climbed in 4-6 hour blocks and sometimes you are hauling 80 lbs on a tiny pulley after leading the pitch with 30 lbs of gear on your harness and back. It becomes exhausting. Another thing i wish i would have brought was lighter approach shoes. My approach shoes were too heavy and wearing them on my harness all the time when free climbing was extra weight i didn't need. Get something light but also be able to aid climb efficiently with. Also probably buy the full gear harness. We went with the metolius multi loop D but could have used a backpack style like the Cassin Salathe Gear Sling or the Misty Mountain Big Wall Gear Sling. You want to be able to take it off to switch between partners as well. Load a single sling up with triples and see how heavy it gets. Get one good set of aiders with spreader bars and another set of speed stirrups for jugging. Switch them back and fourth between the leader and follower.
   
3. Three days felt like a big push but it was only because of other parties. We originally fixed to sickle ledge (first four pitches) but when we got up there at 6 am the next morning there was a party of germans and another three aussies in line. We were able to pass them later that afternoon but it ate up about 7 hours of our easy free climbing time waiting on these slow teams. This put us at el cap tower at just after midnight that first night. After that our sleep was messed up and we had a long 17 hour push to get to camp 5 which had us stumbling into camp at 3:30 am. With that we did pass another 3 teams but got stuck behind another slow team the next morning and due to waiting on them topped out at 10:30 that night. With all that, i would say try to fix and then get up really early the first morning and other mornings after that. Most teams bail by dolt tower if they are too slow so if you can get past the slow initial parties that first morning you should be in the clear for a three day ascent. We went without a portaledge which meant we had to meet our objectives (el cap tower and camp five). If you do bring a portaledge you can stop wherever but it is also extra weight and shit to deal with. If you do it in three days and it is your first big wall in yosemite it is going to be hard. It is doable but have your hauling and aid climbing dialed. You really never know what other parties are going to be doing and how it will effect your ascent. There are a lot of people up there who don't know what they are doing and you don't want to be the people holding up the conga line.
   
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   Doing some work in Zion is a good idea to get you ready for the Nose. Not sure about which routes you are trying there but after you have your systems dialed in I would suggest getting on something that wanders quite a bit. The Nose works from left to right for the first third of the wall and then back to the left for the second half. You will need to get good at lower outs for the follower and for the haul bag. This was something that I didn't see as much of a big deal before we climbed it but had to use a lot. Make sure you know how to set up a clean anchor (I prefer bringing two pre-built quads for anchors) and manage ropes well. Transition time should be quick and efficient. If it isn't you can eat up a whole day's worth of time just fucking with ropes and switching gear back and fourth.
   
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   If all that wasn't perfectly clear you can ask for more details on certain aspects. It is a big undertaking and you cannot be over prepared. I would still do it in a three day ascent because i hate hauling and it is less weight but other like vertical camping. If you are not doing a three day i suggest bringing a portaledge.

First, I hope you both have a wonderful trip, I'm truly jealous of what you'll get to do and see :)

Second, I'd really recommend spending some time in Austria. I was lucky to spend some time in and around Salzburg and the area is absolutely gorgeous, the food is fantastic and the people are lovely. I spent time in a town not far from Salzburg called Werfen. I believe there is via ferrata climbing in the mountains there and possibly other climbing (I unfortunately wasn't into climbing when I was there :( ). I'd recommend doing a salt mine tour as they are quite fascinating and you see some lovely things. I'd also recommend the Werfen Eisriesenwelt Ice Caves as they were absolutely stunning.

Now for the main topic :) for sport climbing in Scotland I've not done too much to make personal recommendations however, I can hopefully help out a little. I own a copy of Scottish Sport Climbs this has some topo maps of lots of different sport climbs and info about the areas and grades (if you check the preview in that amazon link it gives you all the crags that the book covers) I'm happy to send you photos of any of the pages you'd like if there are any of the crags or areas you'd like to visit. You can also use UKClimbing's find a crag to look for other places to climb, though it can sometimes be difficult to just find sport climbing with it.

I hope you have a wonderful time and would love to hear of an update or see any highlights from your trip! :)

Here are the best resources I've found. I will say this though: Find a solid climbing mentor to teach you all the safety basics (belaying, knots, anchors, etc.). I've only been climbing a little over a year, and I've seen some of the dumbest/craziest stuff outside already. It's good to read books and watch videos, but always have someone who knows that they're doing to check and double check that you're safe. Ask lots of questions--you only have one life and you don't want to die (or kill/hurt someone) from a dumb mistake that could be prevented.

• The Self-Coached Climber - This is a great book on movement. It comes with a DVD that shows you drills to improve your footwork and technique. (Here's a link to some of the drills.)
  
• 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes - This book I read and re-read constantly in the bathroom. There are no pictures, but he has little advice and thoughts about training and climbing that really help. I've found it more helpful the longer I've climbed.
  
• How to Climb 5.12 - Excellent training advice for climbing. How can you argue when this guy's ten year old son put up a first ascent of a 5.14a in Maple Canyon?
  
• Rock Warrior's Way - This is a great book for mental training for climbing. It will help more if you ever get into lead climbing/trad.
  
• Freedom of the Hills - This is the Bible of climbing/mountaineering.
  
• Climbing Anchors - John Long's book is one of the best. Make sure you have a good mentor though to help you and check your systems.
  
• Improve Your Climbing with Neil Gresham - Great video for technique on overhangs. The full version is worth watching too if you can find it online.
  
• Mountain Project's School of Rock - Lots of general info and videos.
  
  Stay safe, find a mentor, and ask lots of questions.

Hi! So, the basics for indoor climbing could be narrowed down to:
Shoes! (I don't recommend buying aggressive shoes, go for something comfortable, eg. 5.10 Rouge, La Sportiva Tarantula, etc.)
Harness! (Assuming you'll be sport climbing) Black Diamond makes fantastic harnesses, Petzl too but they're a bit more expensive.
ATC/Grigri Many people swear by the Grigri, myself included but I think beginners should learn how important is to properly use an ATC, it'll be an indispensable piece of gear, pretty much any ATC will work, a grigri can be an upgrade for your birthday ;)
Chalk bag. Get a funky one, have fun.

Whenever you transition into outdoor climbing you'd be looking to buy around 6-12 Quickdraws, there are hundreds of options, Petzl and BD are bomb proof. If you don't wanna spend a ton I recommend Mad Rock's Concorde https://www.amazon.com/Mad-Rock-Concorde-Express-Set/dp/B00BIUXR88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495070844&sr=8-1&keywords=Mad+Rock+quickdraw

ROPE! This is where many people will tug you around saying a thinner or thicker is better, just get a good rope between 9.4mm and 9.8mm 60 Meter rope, you'll be fine, big look for brands like BD, Petzl, Blue Water ropes, Sterling, Mammut, Fixe Roca, etc etc... and that's it!

ALSO, forgot to add, a PAS (Personal Anchor System) again, your SO will have to see which type, Metolius sells this one:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pas_personal_anchor_system.html

Or you can build one yourself with some cordellete
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R9-EBU-EPs


Depending on sales and all that, the indoor stuff will cost you arouuuuund
$70-100 USD Shoes
$50 harness
$25 ATC
$10 Chalk bag

For the outdoor
$120 - $200 on 12 Quickdraws
$150 - $200 for a 60m rope.
$15-30 PAS


Good Luck!

Edit: added the PAS info.

it's likely not unsafe for belaying with an atc (never said it was "unsafe"... just using that choice along with the alpine harness picked to gauge overall skill level and overall ambition. the extra harnesses imply that she was going to be a mentor for people without gear.), but no climber I have seen uses one. The d shaped locker that she listed is very narrow and when used to rappel on two ropes has the two strands at two different parts of the nose and very staggered. I also think it might crossload easier because of the shape of it. All I am saying is that someone with the proper knowledge and skills to keep other people safe probably wouldn't choose a small D as a belay carabiner. (I have that exact d shaped biner and it's nice enough for clipping bolts but not as a belay carabiner.)

the petzl attache is a smallish pear shaped that works well or the bigger hms style is another style that works well. The HMS has the benefit that you can throw a munter hitch on it and belay/rappel with that if you ever dropped your atc.

The rocklock works better and is cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Rocklock-Screwgate-Carabiner/dp/B000LGJFYK/ref=pd_sim_sg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TMRPYCASWKZ3ZC5AXRT

or the package deal:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Package-Device-Locking/dp/B000FNB0WY

The williams is another one that is nice and would be a good belay carabiner.

It really depends on what type of climbing you enjoy: adventure, sport, mountaineering, etc.

Here are some of my favourites:

If you like alpinism and want to learn how pathetic and weak willed you are compared to Steve House, check out Beyond the Mountain. Great book. Dude has insane ethics that make me feel bad for clipping bolts.

If you're more into big wall climbing and how it fits in with life lessons, The Push by Tommy Caldwell is phenomenal. He really throws it all out there and gives you an insight as to just how hard he worked to free the Dawn Wall and all the lessons that came with it.

If you want a really well written account of one of climbing's most bizarre controversies, The Tower by Kelly Cordes was one of my favourites this year. It gives a back-and-forth history and insight into climbing Cerro Torre and really gives a glimpse into life in Patagonia and the history of climbing Torre.

If you're a big dreamer and history nut, The Bold and The Cold gives first hand stories of the first ascents of some of the biggest routes in Canada. From the Bugaboos to Robson, it's a fantastic read and really gets you longing to get out out there.

Eiger Dreams was a fantastic collection of unrelated short stories centering around climbing and mountaineer. Some big characters and bigger adventures that are well told by the same author (and climber!) that gave us Into the Wild.

And finally, I recommend The Calling by Barry Blanchard for no other reason than it's a really well written account of the life of a fading alpinist in the Canadian Rockies.

Hope this helps!



Bonus recommendation: not climbing related, but a really great read for anyone who loves the outdoors: The Names of the Stars is a fantastic book that follows the personal account of a retired Park Ranger who spents 5 months alone in the wilderness of Montana watching fish eggs. It's a boring premise but the author is so vivid with his descriptions and shows the connection between us and the wild. I read it in a day, it was that good.

I'm a rehab based Chiropractor and treating climbers is a large part of my practice. A few years ago I was looking for something similar as I know there are seminars/certifications for golf, running, lifting etc - but couldn't find anything solid for climbers. My best advice is pick up some climbing injury books and start there. I listed the books I own below in order of my preference. I second u/wristrule's recommendation of make it or break it and checking out Training Beta. They have PTs/Chiros/Trainers/Coaches talk about injuries and prevention. Follow those people and their professional work as they all have blogs, books, videos etc.

As far as research goes, there is actually a decent body of evidence but sample sizes of the studies tend to be small. The best collection of climbing research in one place is probably The Beta Angel Project https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory It is sorted into categories which is a nice touch. Also you can pubmed search 'rock climbing' and there are a bunch of studies there.

Here are the books I own and recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/Make-Break-Climbing-Injuries-Dictate/dp/0956428134

https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Injuries-Solved-Lisa-Erikson/dp/0692296646/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1535818900&sr=1-5&keywords=rock+climbing+injuries

https://www.amazon.com/Climb-Injury-Free-Dr-Jared-Vagy/dp/0692831894/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1535818900&sr=1-2&keywords=rock+climbing+injuries

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Theres a few more books out but I haven't checked them out just yet.

Hope this helps you help other climbers!

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It depends on what you did in the meantime. I'm guessing it was a few years you climbed for the last time? And are you physically fit at the moment?

You might want to see how your body is holding up when you're back at climbing (I don't know how strong your tendons etc. are at this point) and don't overdo it in the beginning.

Depending on how you feel and how your climbing goes you can adjust from there. Imho a hangboard might be a good idea then if your tendons/fingers are up to it, but I wouldn't do it now. Too risk sensitive.

If you want to do something in the meantime you could train your fingers a bit more lightly. E.g. have a look at something like https://www.amazon.com/Handmaster-Plus-Physical-Therapy-Exerciser/dp/B00CTG3TQU and build it up slowly.

And a bit of cardio or weights in the gym won't hurt either to get your body back ready for climbing. Just don't overdo it and pay attention to your body :)

Have fun and good luck with your goals!

If you look at many of the best climbers in the world (Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma, Paul Robinson, etc) they are all pretty skinny with powerful hands, arms, shoulders and abs. Being a good climber is all about reducing your body weight while strengthening specific muscle groups that help your climbing.

Weightlifting for climbing should focus on the benefit you want to get. You should go buy a book like this one to learn what you need to do to condition yourself for climbing.

How to Climb 5.12 - The Book

I'm barely in the 5.12 range, but my improvement from 10d to 12a has coincided with an increased focus on bouldering (i.e. focusing on strength and power).

I also did a tiny bit of weighted hangboarding on a minimal edge early on and saw some improvement, but I don't know if I'd recommend that to you since you haven't been climbing very long. If you try it, take every precaution you can to make sure you don't injure yourself. Warm up well, use only open handed crimp or half crimp, and take long rests between hangs.

Brand new climber here - been to the local rock gym twice and I'm hooked. Will be doing indoor stuff only with my girlfriend about once a week.

I picked up a pair of 5.10 shoes today, and am looking at getting my own belay device and carabiner. The popular stuff on Amazon is all the Black Diamond stuff. Just wondering if it's any good - it's pretty inexpensive. The recommended belay carabiner is $12, and for something this important I don't mind spending more for a higher quality (safer) locking one. This is the one I'm looking at:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Rocklock-Screwgate-Carabiner/dp/B000LGJFYK

With this belay device:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-ATC-Belay-Device/dp/B004GYD8H8

Are these any good? I have no problem spending whatever on a better setup if it's safer and will last a while. I do a lot of other outdoor sports and I know that some of the entry level gear can be a bit on the cheaply made side and I don't want to risk something breaking to save a few bucks.

Thanks!

Edit: I know this has to be the most asked question on here, so apologies in advance..

Eiger Dreams is an excellent book.
http://www.amazon.com/books/dp/1599216108

Maybe look around the area and see what gyms there are and get her some day passes to them.

Honestly though, the best support you could probably give her would be to climb with her. Then you too could become addicted!

Smith has some of the top sport climbing in the country! If you go during the summer, just make sure to bring your own water. If you're willing to do some easy hiking, you can always find stuff in the shade. There is also a nice river that runs through the park if you need to take a quick dip to cool off. I highly recommend it!


And if you decide to go, make sure to purchase this book!

Here's the deal: you're just starting out. Any gear is good gear.

• Harness, belay device, etc: Buy one of these, or the similar package from Petzl. If you really want a GriGri fine, but I'd argue that you should learn on an ATC and buy a GriGri later if you want one.
  
• Draws: You'll probably find Mad Rock draws the cheapest, buy two 6-packs of those and you're good. Unless you're projecting long 5.13s you don't need 16 Petzl Spirit Express draws.
  
• Rope: Don't buy anything smaller than 9.8. If you're just climbing in the gym to start, maybe consider buying a 10.2 30-40m "gym cut" rope. Then when you're ready to move outside, buy a 60-70m 9.8, 9.9, or 10.2. Thicker ropes are a bit heavier, but are much more durable, easier to work with (arguable safer for new climbers), and will probably last you longer.
  
• Rope bag: anything is fine. Do some research, or just buy whatever's on sale.
  
• Anchor: Look into building sport climbing anchors. Four locking biners and two 60cm sewn runners is probably about right. A lot of people just lower or top-rope off of two quickdraws, you might just want to buy two extra draws.

Others have mentioned key points. Getting comfortable with such things like multi-pitch sport (to get into the mental headspace), single pitch trad (need that gear knowledge), multi-pitch trad with bolted anchors (last step before going for completely trad).

What I'll add, and this is good for all climbing disciplines, is knowing some self-rescue techniques. Its just good stuff to know.
This book and this one are both good options. It will in general up your confidence in the mountains.

a small knife is always useful.
https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Climbers-Knife-Serrations-Carabineer/dp/B015KRJXRI
I carry my chalk bag on a small carabiner, and have the knife inbetween the 2 attachment points on their. and i have the knife on a leash of 2mm paracord wrapped around the knife, so if i am using it, i wont drop it that far.


though its mostly been used to cut open my lunch avocados.


i always like having rescue gear with me.
a second prussik (though if i was going more than a few feet i would swap one out for my grigri), , and 6ft of cordage for escaping the belay or for use as a foot loop on my prussic. i also usually have a double length nylon sling, for slinging stuff, or could be anchor material or a footloop.


If it was me, I would get a grigri, (assuming you have an ATC), followed by a dedicated TR anchor setup.

I use the black diamond gloves for belaying and rappelling but they definitely aren't durable enough for you. I'd recommend looking at synthetic leather work gloves.

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something like this:

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https://smile.amazon.com/Vgo-Dexterity-Anti-vibration-Anti-abrasion-Touchscreen/dp/B0725QH9P1/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=heavy+duty+work+gloves&qid=1555718965&s=gateway&sr=8-4

smith is unique. lots of runouts to anchors.

this is the best book on smith, imo

if your gym has a completely vertical wall with tiny crimps it'll be good smith practice.

it'll be packed if it's nice at all. 5 gallon buckets will have 3 busloads of kids with a line down the trail, 9 gallons is worth the wait though.

lemme know if you need any portland food advice!

If you're new, work on technique as opposed to fitness (yeah, fitness helps, but technique is more important initially).


Check this book out.


If you want to get into some next-level stuff, pick up Training for the New Alpinism by Steve House. It's alpinism-focused, but has good workouts. Or perhaps Conditioning for Climbers

my impression of the metolius mega sets is that generally the work best on less steep walls - vertical or slab, due to the generally smaller hold size. So you may want to avoid an overhung wall, and additionally until she is a little older.

Here's a video of a baby climbing a vertical wall. this seems like what you might be going for. Here is a young one on a slab wall. In both cases I think they have a few more "jug" holds than what you have in the metolius set. Consider supplementing with something easier to grab like a set of mini jugs or these.

Let me see if I can put this more eloquently than @pliers below. Go and buy Neil Gresham's "Climbing Masterclass: Improve your climbing" DVDs 1 & 2. Don't torrent them, they're not wildly expensive, and the guy deserves to get paid for the quality of instruction he puts out there. You won't regret the purchase.

I'd recommend Craig Connally's "The Mountaineering Handbook" in addition to Freedom of the Hills. Neither book is perfect - compare, contrast, ask around your climbing buddies...

This is what it's really all about- having fun! And, geez y'll, this is literally the route featured on the cover of THE book for JTree climbing (https://www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Joshua-Tree-National/dp/0762770198). Bravo dude. Keep being cool and having fun.

Buy John Kettle's new book and get a head start on all your friends ;-)

Feet. Focus on precise foot placement and pushing from your lower body rather than pulling with your upper body. "Silent feet" is an often recommended exercise, where the point isn't the silence as such; the point is that in order to be silent you have to be focused & precise.

(Full disclosure: I am not John Kettle. My only connection with him is as a satisfied customer of his coaching business)

Hey man! Just as you, climbing gave me qives me quite a lot of confidence. Recently I've recently been really struggling with my work and my confidence to get my job done. I've stumbled upon this book about mental training by Arno Ilgner. It really suprised me by it's content, that's applicable to climbing but also to just normal life. It really tackles the issue of making performance you endgoal (which negatively impacts your climbing). You should check it out, could give you a fresh perspective on things, for me it suprinsingly enough proved that the challenges I'm facing in my job or not that much different then those I face in a steep overhang (=trust yourself). For 10 $ you can't really go wrong.

For mountaineering a good start would be to pick up a used copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. Here's a link to the current 9th edition. I have the 7th edition from when I started climbing. Used copies of the 7th are going for under $2.

This book has a great chapter on nutrition. Since reading that I take mostly GU gels and gummies, some with caffeine, which gives a nice boost before a difficult pitch. They are much lighter on the stomach than cliff bars and don't require as much water to digest. I can go about 8-10hrs on those before requiring real food.

Vogel's Book is very comprehensive and has most routes. But if you're not going to spend weeks there, the best climbs book is really great for finding the classics.

I haven't climbed any big walls, but I have heard Chris McNamara's big wall book is considered the bible for big wall climbing, especially in Yosemite. https://www.amazon.ca/How-Wall-Climb-Chris-McNamara/dp/0983322511.

My understanding is that climbing el cap or half dome is far less about your climbing ability, and more about your systems ability, efficiency, and ability to suffer.

I don't set but I work in a gym and have heard a number of setters (both our setters and other gyms) recommend this book. I haven't read it so hopefully someone can chime in on if it is worth a read or not.

Fundamentals of Routesetting by Louie Anderson

One thing I recommend as a foundation is getting the Climbing Injury Free book by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT. He is a climber and works with top athletes across the board.

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Most of the book is injury exercises when you're already injured, but the injury prehab exercises he teaches has helped me prevent a lot of injuries. He also shows a Muscle Activiation/Dynamic Warm up that works really well in the book as well. It has helped me to climb better.

Please tell me those are not the actual holds your gym uses. I've climbed on the pictured "level 3" holds and they are pretty terrible for anything outside of a kids play set.

https://www.amazon.com/Rocky-Mountain-Climbing-Gear-QH-G3IN-ZLO6/dp/B0054RVYZ4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1549292196&sr=8-10&keywords=kids+climbing+holds

https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Hardware-Children-Playground-assorted/dp/B01M8FZSAI/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549292196&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=kids+climbing+holds&psc=1

C denotes a style of aid climbing know as "clean aid". Basically it means that you can ascend the route without a hammer (i.e. you're not going to need pitons, bashies, etc.). In fact, a lot of routes, like the one your asking about, is technically C0. Seriously though, two books that are worth the time for any aspiring aid climber:

Freedom of the Hills

Big Walls

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills https://www.amazon.com/dp/1680510045/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_77PlDbB369K90

Trad Climber's Bible (How To Climb Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0762783729/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U8PlDbW6VBDK9

https://coloradomountainschool.com/product/multi-pitch-rock-climbing/

https://www.cmc.org/Classes/CMCClassesandSchools.aspx

https://denvermountainguiding.com/rock-climbing

Get the new version of Louie Anderson's book. You can also get it from him directly (preferable) by contacting him on FB. I have all of my new (and experienced) setters read it.

also, join the Routesetters Anonymous group on FB. Lots of good content there.

>Source?

pp. 136-140 of The Mountaineering Handbook. Also, a video of the figure eight rolling over itself when cross (ring) loaded.


>Inches?

Try a few feet, and I could say more as to why, but it has to do with alpinism and the whole tying in when you are doing things not most people do.

>that's just familiarity with the knot.

Yep, and that is the whole point.

Just keep climbing and try to focus on technique. I bought this kindle ebook and its drills are useful for me even though Ive been climbing for a while. If I had started these when I began climbing Id probably be leading 12s right now! They are not training, they are technique drills and you find yourself slowly incorporating the movements while you climb and finding new ways to read routes and before you know it you are not even thinking about it.

https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement-ebook/dp/B07C68HLRK/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1562084256&sr=8-2

Convince them to buy this book. Read it. Make others read it. Find people that are passionate about the wall.

if you haven't found it already, Chris McNamara's How to Big Wall Climb is a seriously good resource for your objective.

Pick up a copy of C Mac's How to Big Wall Climb. Practice plenty of trad climbing and be prepared to shell out hundreds for new sets of cams, biners, and draws.

The book named "How to Big Wall Climb" https://www.amazon.com/How-Wall-Climb-Chris-McNamara/dp/0983322511

I am thinking of this guide book for our short time there? http://www.amazon.com/Best-Climbs-Joshua-Tree-National/dp/0762770198/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383061620&sr=8-1&keywords=joshua+tree+climbing

this is the smith bible.

Also have you checked out Fundamentals of Routesetting ? I don't personally have setting experience, but this book is required reading for the setters at the gym I go to

They're right, though. "Dedicated" is relative - someone who is already able to climb at least one v3/4 in a session, could be climbing v8 within 2~ years if they have a consistent plan and are doing something to train 3-4 days a week. In reality, you can do SOMETHING 7 days a week if you know how to plan it. There's no reason you can't take 20 minutes and do pushups, crunches and shoulder exercises on your off days for injury prevention maintenance if getting to v8 is important to you.

Even just doing ONE thing can make a big difference. I went from working 5.11b to flashing 5.11d (D!) outside just by adding regular crunches to my week.

Check out the books, The Rock Climbers Training Manual and Climb Injury-Free.

High single digit bouldering and hard 5.12 climbing is much more accessible than people realize. The hardest part is being consistent enough to develop quality technique and body awareness. Though once you get in the mindset of trying different beta, even if you think you've "got it" and going back to easier problems to see if you can figure out even more efficient ways to do them than you've used before.

• Step 1 - Take a hook.
  
• Step 2 - Perch it on your doorframe.
  
• Step 3 - Hang from hook and sweat profusely while you wonder what you did wrong with your life that you decided you wanted to climb big walls.
  
• Step 4 - Repeat while hanging 2,500 feet off the deck.
  
  
  Or buy How to Big Wall Climb and prepare your wallet for some of the worst months of its life as you accumulate massive amounts of gear. Finally, go forth and be rad.