(Part 2) Best products from r/cosplay

Okay, so I'm actually planning on doing a Crusader myself next year and I can go into some of what I plan on using. Also keep in mind that while I have done armor before, I am by no means an expert on it, I just know what my preferences are and how I plan on tackling some of the hurdles.

So lets tackle the elephant first, The Armor:

"Armored by faith, driven by duty, bound to kill the enemies of the Zakarum."

• For materials I plan on using a combination of things as in my experience one typically isn't enough. Yes worbla is a good jumping off point, but its rather expensive for my tastes and I have heard a lot of horror stories in the past of it reforming itself when being left in peoples cars. So instead, like the addict I am, will be resorting to my normal shenanigans of ABS and Sintra with a dash of craft foam and EVA foam.
  
• Both the plastics you can get at a plastic manufacturer , ABS runs around $80 for a 4'x8' sheet, and Sintra runs about $30 for the same size, you will need a power cutter for the ABS, but a box cutter should be okay for the Sintra. Craft foam is carried at most craft stores for scrapbooking, just ask and they can get you set up and its like $8 for a pack of 12-16 18"x24" sheets, and EVA foam you can get at most hardware stores or Wal-Mart but I'd recommend Harbor Freight as they have both rolls and squares, typically runs $10-$20.
  
• All of the above can be molded with a heat gun, if you get one get at least a 2 heat, and I'd personally recommend this one. Just becareful and wear gloves and make sure you ventilate pretty well. Also, test it, test it, test it! Make sure to get a good feel for how the material will work with your resource.
  
• Bonus note! ABS and Sintra can be heated in the oven. Use a non-stick silver pan when heating them. ABS is roughly 300 degrees for 15 min, will be flexible for about 45 seconds, so you need to act fast. Sintra goes in about 5 min at like 250 degrees (much lower heating threshold). Oven heating is really good for base shapes, base shape around an arm, or a leg or w/e, but not for detailing, use a heatgun on low for that. Also make sure that after you base-shape you smooth it out really nice or you're gonna have some warping on the sides. And since both of these are heat moldable, if you don't have glue you can stick it back in the oven and try again.
  
• Bonus bonus: ABS is solid, like ridiculously solid. I've had people physically hit my armor and hurt themselves on it. I also can withstand competition level Airsoft Rifles and literally not feel a thing.
  
• For small details I'm going to be investing in a 3D printer next year. Dremel has one that is supposed to have super good quality and really easy to use for $1000, so come on tax return.
  
• Chain mail if you have a pair of pliars and a lot of patience you can get chainmail rings on Amazon for about $25-30 depending on the size. This does take a while so I'd recommend starting a good TV show and watching it in the background while you work.
  
• Finally, make sure you pattern your pieces. To do this wrap what you want to pattern in cellophane and cover it loosely in tape, preferably something that you can use a sharpie on, and then draw out the base pattern from there. Make sure to include an extra 5-10%. I cannot stress this enough, you would not believe how many pieces I've had to remake because I didn't make them big enough the first time. Don't waste your money because of this stupid simple mistake.
  
  Okay, onto a bit easier subject, The Cloth and Leather:
  
  "My faith is rewarded."
  
  
• For the fabric you really need to decide if you want to be a little worn or like a majestic unicorn. IF you're going for worn look for a fabric that already appears as such. A good example would be some sort of cotton linen hybrid that you can wear up a bit with a box cutter (look up how to weather pants for this). If you want to be majestic and BA, look for a high sheen cotton sateen. It really all depends on what you can find in the store, also look online too, most places will either just give you a small sample or sell you them for like $1-2.
  
• For your leather I'd say go for a Vinyl for solid pieces and actual leather for the quilted pieces. If you have a Tandy Leather in your area go there. They are super willing to help and if you show them pictures and tell them what you want to do they'll get you all set up. They even offer classes and have open work where an instructor will just sit there and answer questions.
  
  My plan for my eternal Phalanx, and this can be debated, The Shield:
  
  "The crusade marches on!"
  
  
• For the base I'm going to be using pink insulation foam layered upon itself. I'm doing this because it's cheap and light, and trust me, that is important. You need to carry this around all day, no reason to make your arm hate you. Also I do not care if the inside is curved in, in fact, I almost prefer it not to be.
  
• After I carve/sand the outside to base shape I'll add detail where needed with either more insulation foam or craft foam.
  
• Once everything is pretty coat it all in either Gesso (4-5 coats) or Paper Mache to seal the pours. Then cover it in (Plasti Dip](http://www.plastidip.com/) to seal it and give it a nice look, this will also add a bit of stability to it.
  
• By far the Gesso will be the most expensive as it's about $20 for a 32 oz jar and will need about 1 jar per coat.
  
• After all of that paint it, add some straps and your golden. Oh and if you want to save some materials and money dont make an arm guard for your shield arm unless you want to magnetize it as it will more than likely just be getting in the way and you will run the risk of ruining the guard anyways. My plan is to magnetize both forearms so I can use the shield in either arm btw.
  
• Oh and for the shield grip (what you hold in your hand) use a gate pull. They wont move around like cloth, they're not entirely uncomfortable, and they're cheap.
  
  Last but not least, everyone favorite, The Weapon:
  
  "Do not hesitate to strike down your enemies. Death is their salvation from evil."
  
  
• Dowel rods are a great base. I'd also recommend PVC, for longer weapons PVC is ideal as its lighter and thicker pieces won't bend as much as you think, but feel free to test this out.
  
• Use pink insulation foam for the larger pieces like the hammer head and spear tip. Again it makes it lighter, and the lighter it is the more comfortable you'll be.
  
• For things like blades and whatnot, if it's more than a foot long add an internal notch and some way of anchoring it inside of the insulation foam. This will make sure that the foam wont move around on you and you don't have a magic rotating weapon. This will also prevent them from flying of if the glue someone comes undone.
  
• For the details it's back to Sintra and Craft Foam. Like these are amazing and can really add a nice pop to your weapon. Other commonly used items are foam display board.
  
• Finally make sure you cover porous things in Gesoo + Plasti Dip. I've even see people use 4-way stretch spandex because they didn't want to paint. Just make sure your edges are nice and clean.
  
  That's really all I got. Only other thing I could suggest is to take your time and start early. Some of my friends, and even me sometimes, don't start early and will run around the week before/week of freaking out because we're not done, so don't be like us. Be smart. Oh, speaking of being smart, make sure you use PPE. If you don't know if you need it ask about it. You don't want to be working with something like resin without a mask and get breathing issues in 15 years because you didn't protect yourself. And what ever you do, don't forget:
  
  "Kneel before Zakarum!"

It all depends on what type of builder/crafter you want to get into. Buying all the "machines" and tools for someone that would be a foamsmith but you're really a needlework kind of person makes it a potential waste of money and time (and vice versa).

IF you want to get into an overall crafting/building in general, here are the tools and materials I've gathered for my workshop:

I'm gonna put the word **Optional** for the items that are not completely necessary for first time builders, but definitely worth while down the road.

• Breakaway blades - You can get a pack and break away the blade once it dulls or no longer sharpens.
  
• Rotary cutting wheel - for quick fabric cuts https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-195210-1001-Comfort-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B000B7M8WU/
  
• Kershaw Sharpening stone - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WALUV6/
  
• Dremel (or rotary tool) - I've seen these go for as low as $30 for one that has 2 speeds. Since it's mostly for costuming, the 2 speeds is plenty.
  
• Besides the Dremel, if you can, pick up a Belt Sander **Optional** from Harbor Frieght (particularly when it goes on sale and they issue a 20% coupon) I got mine for around $50 and it is a time saver!
  
• Heat gun, I picked one up from Harbor Freight and it was under $10 at the time. It's still going strong and I have had no issues.
  
• Wood Burning Tool **Optional** - This will help you add some great details on the foam. There is a good starter kit also that contains a bunch of nibs, including a soldering nib, as well as a hot knife attachment. The hot knife will cut through foam like butter. One note though, if you don't plan on getting a separate dedicated hot knife, use the one that comes w/ the kit for the finer cuts. The wood burner is a very versatile tool!
  
• For the glue. I would suggest Barge Contact cement or DAP Weldwood. This is what I use and it's proven to be a great option. Hot glue is still very helpful and can be used for quick fixes or adding additional bond. My only reason for not using hot glue for foam is that it takes time to cure and you have to hold it in place. Also, sometimes it creates messy seams.
  
• Kwik Seal paintable caulk or flexible spackle - to cover up the seams you can use either of these. Difference between the two, 1) the caulk needs to be smoothed out before it dries, you can use water. 2) the spackle can be sanded after it dries if you don't apply it smooth the first time.
  
• On the topic of concealing seams or general sculpting, you should look into Foam Clay. It is very malleable and once cured overnight, it's basically shaped foam.
  
• Mod Podge or Flexible Clear Coat spray **Optional** - To coat the finished and painted product, you will want to use something that will protect it and also be flexible. Unless, you want it to be very rigid, you can use Epsilon Pro to coat it, but I can't guarantee that it won't crack. Especially areas that will need some flex. I say this is optional because some crafters don't do clear coating.
  
• Eye Protection & Mask - you don't want fine bits of foam flying into your eyes or lungs. Make sure you get eye pro and a good fine-filter respirator.
  
• Sewing machine - I'm not a needlework expert, but having one is great for sewing straps, hook & loop, minor clothing, etc... Obviously if this is more your expertise, get one that you know you'll love and have great use of.
  
• Cutting Mat - Useful for both the foamsmith and the needlework crafters. I've used both the Fiskars and the US Art Supply brands. Personally the US Art Supply one is way better IMO. It holds up to more cuts and abuse.
  
  Here are some helpful options for your search for EVA foam. Hopefully one of the stores I list here will be some-what local for you. Home Depot, Lowes, 5 Below, BJ's, Costco, Walmart, & Harbor Freight all carry the EVA (floor mat) foam. I have personally purchased and used foam from all of these locations.
  
  
• Your standard craft foam (from craft stores like JoAnne's or Michaels) will be anywhere between 2mm - 6mm. These are great for accent pieces or adding fine details. Keep in mind anything under 8mm will need some sort of rigid structure in order to maintain a good shape for armor. (like cardboard or something) FYI - Joanne's now carries the Yaya Han branded EVA foam mats in various thicknesses.
  
• Harbor Freight has 4 (24"x24") tiles for $8.99 and sometimes have an additional 20% off coupon circulating around. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. They also carry a 72" long (8mm) foam roll with a heat treated diamond patterned back for $9.99.
  
• At BJ's & Costco, I've bought some from these places as well, they carry 8 (24"x24") tiles for $9.89. But people have complained of its quality. (I personally have never had any notable issues with them.) The back of their EVA foam is generally heat treated usually w/ a diamond pattern.
  
• Home Depot & Lowes carries the 4 pack (25"x25") anywhere between $20 - $25. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. Though these seem fine, they are more expensive and are just like the ones at Harbor Freight.Walmart carries a 12 pack (24"x24") for around $18 - $20. The back of their EVA foam is the typical heat treated texture.
  
• 5 Below carries single tiles (no packs) (multiple colors) for $5.00. Same as the others, standard heat treated texture on the other side.
  
• TNT Cosplay Supply carries various sizes and thicknesses of EVA/Craft foam without the heat treatment backing. This is especially good if you don't want to have to deal with sanding down the heat treated backing to help glue adhere better. They are more expensive, but the quality is always great.
  
  Helpful links from the masters: Evil Ted Smith , Punished Props , Odin Makes , KamuiCosplay.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  *note some prices are subject to change*

Hi! I'm so flattered that you like my cosplay and want to do Belle for a local con! Hopefully, some of my experiences can help.

Bow: The bow was actually pretty simple. I did use the same fabric of the dress. I backed it with some light weight interfacing to make it more stiff. There are probably a lot of tutorials on how to do basic bows online ( search sailor moon bows if your having trouble...) But the basic concept is that you sew two squares together like a pillow case then fold then like you would if you were making a paper fan..Take another rectangle strip fo fabric ( I also put interfacing on that back of that and just folded in the edges so it looked nice. ) and wrap it around the middle. I sewed mine and then uses a metal clip to clip it on the hair near the ponytail holder. though you could probably do the sam with bobby pins.

Wig: I did style the wig! The wig I bought was Christine at Amphigory no cutting required, If you have any experience in teasing chances are this will turn out better for you. Just make sure you have a wig head to secure to and some patience. I sectioned off the hair at the very front of the wig where the hairline is then right behind that I tried my best to tease two kind trangeler bumps on both sides of the part. after that was pretty solid I took the sectioned off front hair and lightly draped it around the teased bumps so it's looked smooth and then took the rest of that separated hair and tiwsted it down the sides. Then I gathered the two twist into a ponytail at the nape of the neck, it honestly just took a lot of finagling and even by then end it looked kinda funny when I put it on my head. I remember thinking it looked fine on the wig head then when I put it on it looked like a raccoon hat :P. But once I tried it on with the dress it just worked so don't get discouraged.

Shirt: I made the shirt but honestly if you're trying to save time that's the easiest thing to go out and buy, If you want things to help in your search I would try keywords like "3/4" and/or "bishop" sleeve "white" "Blouse" or "tunic". I just threw the dress right over mine and a bought one would work in the same manner.

Dress: I'm not sure what you have access to as far as sewing goes. but I can tell you what I used. The pattern I used was McCalls M6027 though I also considered Simplicity Amazing Fit 1537 which may be better if you don't want the extra princess seems to be as apparent. The only alterations I made on the McCalls was making the skirt longer, squaring off the neck line and switching out the normal back zipper for an invisible one.

As far as fabric, I went with something that was a bit heavier since I wanted the dress to have some structure and some light stretch. It's all kind of up to personal preference.

Other notes: I love the purse book idea! one of the things I adored about this cosplay was that the book was such an easy prop to have, and everyone was always excited to see that I had one. The basket is also amazing for carrying things while remaining in character...just throw some fabric in there to cover up your phone and wallet and your good to go.

If you do go with a fabric that's in the light blue range as opposed to the typical teal blue that most cosplayers use, be prepared to be mistaken for Dorthy from wizard of oz a few times...especailly if you have a basket :)

The underskirt is a nice touch but I don't think you need it for this cosplay, I plan to make one eventually but currently I just wear it with out.

I hope at least some of that info helps...

Feel free to pm me if you have any questions you think I could help with and either way, I would love to see pictures once your finished!
GOOD LUCK!

>whatever you end up using, have some kind of sealer!! That will create a barrier on top of your paint so it won’t rub off on everything it touches.

I see. Yeah, a friend of mine also thought that having a sealer of some sort would have been the best move. She recommended a product called setting spray (but I don't know if setting spray and sealer are the same thing). So I went on Amazon IT and picked up this product: Makeup Revolution Pro Fix Setting and Illuminating Spray for make-up.

>Since I don’t know what you have available at your local stores I’ll list the general types of face paint, some examples, and their pros and cons:

That sounds great! I'm all ears, as they say.

>Water-Based/Water-Activated - snazaroo was big among homestucks (it’s what I used), Mehron Paradise, and I think a brand called Wolfe? They’re good for mixing but since they’re water based they can run if you start sweating. Requires a lot of touch ups especially at a hot convention.

And, since in Italy weather between September and October can be quite variable and unpredictable, the water-based/water-activated face paint is very likely gonna be a no. But I'm still gonna check out those brands you mentioned, just in case they have also other types of face paint outside of this first category.

>Grease paint - Ben nye is the big name here, it’s stage makeup designed to stay on for entire shows under hot stage lights, so sweat won’t be an issue. Some people say it’s heavy though, and might not look as good close up.

I gave a look to some pictures of this grease paint on the web, and, truth be told? I must admit that it kinda doesn't look as good close up. It looks a bit as if it was slightly thick and dusty.

> Other - Pax is a DIY face paint made by mixing other paints with liquid latex. The safety is sketchy, it’s hard to remove, but will definitely stay on all day without rubbing off on anything.

I see. What makes its safety sketchy though?

> If you’re still unsure, check out some cosplay face paint guides on YouTube and see what other mettaton cosplayers used and how those turned out. And don’t forget to seal!!

Good point. But nonetheless your previous suggestions are still good.

> Edit: sorry in my excitement I missed the link to the store’s website!

Don't worry, it's no big deal.

>looking through it, I think the Kryolan glamour might be your best bet out of all those options.

Hm...It seems to be an interesting choice, especially considering Mettaton's face color is something in between white and light gray, but I'm not so convinced about the product, as the presence of glitter gets mentioned in the description a few times. (But it's also possible I might be misunderstanding the description)

>(I honestly forgot to mention creme makeup because it’s really not good for cosplay, it’s thick, doesn’t seal well, and doesn’t look all that good).

Yeah, I have been told the same. And all the cosplayers I follow over the web seem to make use of face paint or some foundation-like product.

>If it’s an option I’d highly recommend looking for some sealer - Ben nye’s sealer or mehron’s barrier spray - online.

I'll make sure to give them a look.

In multiple cosplays I have used computer case fans like this and even larger ones like this as well as USB fans.

Computer fans have the advantage of being more conducive to being hard mounted. USB Fans have the advantage of lower operating voltage (5 volts vs 12 volts for a case fan) so the batteries are easier to manage and you could even opt for a rechargable usb battery pack.

Keep your hair in mind, as either fan can get tangled up in it quick.

Actually, his second guide tells you all about paint! His guides are VERY useful, and if you're interested, he also does a weekly Q&A livestream via Google Hangouts where you can ask questions about foam fabrication (among other things, usually) and he answers them right then and there! If you follow his Facebook page, he will post who his guest for the week (if any) is, and what time he's streaming.

I hope this helps you out! (To be honest, I'm not a big fan of making armor out of foam, but I've been giving it more of a shot lately. For the foam things that I HAVE made, I've used Plasti-Dip to seal, and then whatever color of spray paints I need, followed by acrylics for details/weathering.)

Edit - Formatting & a word

I have had good luck with acrylic globes like this one from Amazon. they come in different diameters, and take paint well.

Link: https://www.amazon.ca/14-Clear-Acrylic-Globe-PLAS-14PC/dp/B00435MSZS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=globe+clear+14&qid=1569783333&sr=8-1

I'm pretty sure I paid closer to $40. (+shipping) Look around. Maybe it wasn't amazon?? I don't remember

https://www.amazon.com/Protection-Safety-Resistance-Airsoft-Paintbal/dp/B00GLS8K2U


Not quite the same but pretty close. Also, there are many other options via airsoft masks that aren't quite the same.

I realize that this isn't to scale, but this would be a good place to start: https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Unisex-adult-Burst-Seatbelt-Black/dp/B000RY8A5Q/ref=cts_ap_3_vtp

Or paint this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N632BF6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07N632BF6

I'm pretty sensitive to breathing in hairspray. Could I use this mask to filter it out of the air completely?:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C252HD/ref=twister_B07RDJJHXN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I got mine awhile ago but these look like the same ones :3 https://www.amazon.com/LINKY-Women-Leather-Rivet-Garter/dp/B01MDS4CV2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1539643902&sr=8-5&keywords=heart+garter

​

Relatively new to cosplay (mostly done simple stuff like Gruncle Stan before) and I wanted to dress as Willy Wonka (Gene Wilder) version. I found an alriiight looking link on amazon for an entire costume, but the amazon one has them all sewn together, and I was wondering where I could find Wonka's waistcoat and purple blazer separately.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rubies-Chocolate-Factory-Costume-Standard/dp/B01CQCBHOC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=YIEC8LCPK0XO&keywords=willy%2Bwonka%2Bcostume&qid=1571135670&sprefix=willy%2Bw%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExV05UMVhIOVQwVEtXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjcyNjY0MUVDSkJGOEpCWkRBTiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDQzMzM5MUlLTFlTSUZRTExQTCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1&psc=1

Yeah i read to maybe use a foam sealer of some kind before painting it, with maybe acrylic paint? This stuff??

12 in. Clear Acrylic Globe - with... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00435HHC2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Whilst I'm at it do you guys know how to plug holes like the ones on this mask? https://www.amazon.com/Protection-Safety-Resistance-Airsoft-Paintbal/dp/B00GLS8K2U