(Part 2) Best products from r/crankshaft

Cool! I noticed you linked the AudioInjector Zero. Is that the model you'll be testing with? They make another model, the AudioInjector Stereo Soundcard (Link), for not much more.

They both look like they have about the same functionality, but the Stereo doesn't have breakout boards like the Zero does. I imagine they're based on the same chip(s)?

Oh that's what cbxxxx was saying wasn't it. Have you done that? And it works? I thought usb chargers used the data wires to determine how much current to allow?

Edit- thanks for the advice, just ordered this Y cable that'll let me do exactly what you said. Hopefully that'll solve the problem

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NIGO4NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9hdZAbX7R2GQQ

If you don't mind, do you have this one? Adafruit TSL2591 High Dynamic Range Digital Light Sensor [ADA1980] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XW2OFWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b5jwCbHQKJMEN

If so, can you tell me how you wired it? Thank you!

I think I'm going to try my luck with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/upscreen-Reflection-Touchscreen-Anti-Glare-Protection/dp/B01M5BUUNZ

On the manufacturer's page they have an image of the actual screen protector, and looks like it does cover at least some of the bezel.

http://www.protectionfilms24.com/article/upscreen-reflection-shield-matte-premium-screen-protector-raspberry-pi-touchscreen-7zoll-2929809.html?currency=USD

I'm sure there should be some type of converter you could use to make it work, especially if you use an hdmi to composite converter. Something like this could work.

I first bought this one but the end that goes into the Pi sticks much further out than a the card normally does and would not fit inside the case. This one is as big as a normal micro sd card and fits well. Just note (I didnt realize this until my Pi wouldn't boot) this opens and card is placed inside, not just slid in. Only issue with the one I am using is its very short, so have to be careful when removing the back.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S6AMYB4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh and for power I just have a 12v to 5v USB adapter and hook it up to the ignition/accessory power in the dash. I'm not worried about corrupting the SD with that kind of shut down, if you are you could get a little more creative. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XI9BJS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I haven't sorted out charging the phone yet though...

I used one of these and then just put the cam up on the screen using mplayer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E5ITE2W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

How did you solve the issue of Android auto forcing itself to the front of the screen when in use? Does cam_overlay solve that?

Really like this idea! would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Charging-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B019R9ILTG
you would have to still use a 12v connector & usb-c to usb-c to power the hub...

I had the same issue in my car and solved it by using an inline ground loop isolater, as others have mentioned. Here's the one I purchased for $6.99 USD through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQYN77L. This completely removed any audio interference from the engine.

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B06XSCCLCD/

I uses this, and i never had power problems.

original screen, raspi 3 and usb audio card.

I used this AMP HAT
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CZZ95B9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_L7JFDb6G4QX8A

Yes I have a few I will add them below.

You could also try a repeater like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CQ3BC4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I9lUBbM3JAZEC instead of a vanilla junction piece.

And depending on your use case, something like this might work too (I used a square version of this in my LR3): https://smile.amazon.com/USB-3-0-Mount-Cable-Powerbeast/dp/B06WWNZ18N

Would a hub like this work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MCTO6KC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p2DIBb8GKT0SA

I use a standard SPST NC 12V relay and a 12V timer to shutdown the RPi gracefully once the ignition is switched off. The solution is based on this youtube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rknBevexOcU&t=554s)

The timer powers a 12V-5V converter (which in turn powers the RPi and external USB hub etc.)

​

Setup diagram - https://imgur.com/a/o64l4gW

​

The timer is connected directly to the battery as well to the IGN line. The 12V - 5V converter is connected to the output of the timer. When IGN is on the timer switches on it's output which powers the 12V - 5V converter. When IGN goes off the timer starts it's countdown (e.g. 10 mins), when complete it switches off the output (and the 12V - 5V converter switches off). When the timer is off it draws a very small current.

To enable a graceful shutdown of the RPi (i.e. for the RPi to shutdown before the timer) I use a standard SPST NC 12V relay (connected as per wiki posting - https://github.com/opencardev/crankshaft/wiki/Boot,-reboot-and-shutdown-the-Pi-with-ignition-key). Pin 86 is connected to the IGN line, pin 85 to GND, 87A to a GPIO pin (e.g. 23) and 30 to GPIO GND. A script on the RPi is monitoring the status of GPIO 23.

When the IGN switches off pins 87A and 30 are connected sending GPIO 23 low. The RPi will power off after the shutdown delay (this should be less than the shutdown delay for the timer - e.g. 9.5 minutes).

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Parts list

12V - 5V converter - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-12V-to-5V-5A-Step-down-Buck-Power-Supply-Module-4-USB-Converter-Board-Case/173349930955

This has 5A output which is more than enough to power the RPI, screen and a powered USB hub (for high speed charging of my phone).

​

12V Timer - https://www.amazon.com/Timer-Delay-Relay-Cycling-Trigger/dp/B01HNDOCKK/ref=sr_1_6?

Timer needs to be programmed with an off delay (e.g. 10 minutes), set to Function #12 and Trigger to #2 - http://timers.shop/Timer-Cook-Book_ep_43-1.html#example12

​

Timer wiring

Black - ground

Red - battery

Blue (trigger) connected to IGN

Yellow (load) connected to +12V on 12V - 5V converter

​

Relay wiring

Pin 86= SWITCHED power(ignition/ACC)

Pin 85= Chassis Ground (Vehicle electrical system ground)

Pin 30= GPIO Physical Pin 6 or USB ground(Raspberry Pi/USB Ground)

Pin 87a= GPIO Physical Pin 16 (RPI GPIO 23)

I have an 05 Acura TL, so I bought this little guy to make my life easier.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JYF5TR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

However, today I took apart my build and added the jumper wires for the screen. Currently it's connected to my laptop and it's there's no lightning bolt on the screen, so thats a good sign! I'll have to test it tomorrow.

On a side note, while Googling, I did find this: https://www.amazon.com/Carlinkit-Dongle-Electronics-Connector-HW01-01/dp/B07HCKWDJ1 . Its a dongle that implements carplay through an app on (compatible?) Android headunits. The dongle runs $60, an Android headunit about 50 for a low end one, meaning $110 for a solution that may work but has no guarantees. The cheapest Pioneer or Sony headunits with CarPlay are like 250-300 dollars (maybe more, think older models). Your pick!

This is the one I have -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071K7ZLYL/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have no complaints. Does a great job.