(Part 2) Best products from r/dogemining

$1500 invested. Shipping is up to you. I will ship however you want to pay. I will wipe the HD, so you will need to purchase Windows OS or better yet install Linux for FREE. 5x 750 Ti OC edition. 4-Gigabyte 1-EVGA. They are pulling 1200K/h+ without OC. You can OC them. I will accept doge, lite, bit, etc. as payment.

I tried to put together a part list below. PCPartPicker would only let me select 1 GPU and there are other parts that I purchased at other places that PCPartPicker does not carry.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor | $49.99 @ Micro Center
Motherboard | ASRock H81 Pro BTC ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $69.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $155.38 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $169.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $482.34
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-25 21:53 EDT-0400 |


Video Cards: Gigabyte above x4. 1 EVGA 02G-P4-3753-KR GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB + shipping. 5 GPUs total.
Network Adapter: Etekcity High Power 802.11 B/N/G 300M USB Wireless 1000mw Wifi Network Adapter with Dual Antenna
Shelf: Seville Classics 3 Shelf, 17-1/2-Inch by 7-1/2-Inch by 18-1/2-Inch Cabinet Organizer
Electricity Monitoring: ALEKO® Electricity Usage Monitor, Power Meter

Build:

MoBo: Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P

CPU: AMD Sempron 145

RAM: Kingston Hyper X Blu 4 GB

HD: Kingston Digital 60GB

GPU: 5x 750ti FTW edition

PSU: KingWin 850 Watts ATX 850

I have a feeling its the combination of a crappy PSU choice (I was aiming for different GPU's originally) and the FTW edition GPU's.

Remotely controllable power sockets are a godsend.

EDIT: Before anyone else asks, I'd recommend these in conjunction with Wake on LAN to reboot remotely if/when you break something.

They work fabulously for home server setups, too.

It's a name brand, OP was using an extension cord designed for a lamp basically, like this http://www.amazon.com/Axis-45505-Outlet-Indoor-Extension/dp/B006ZON7Y6/ref=lp_495312_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1395325657&sr=1-2 but was using it for something with way more wattage. Not advised at all.

Gauge is really important.
This article is an ok explanation http://gizmodo.com/5903218/how-to-choose-the-right-extension-cord-for-anything

Why use a HDD instead of a cheap solid state for around the same price? Less bulky and near instant startups.

I use this personally and it's been great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SKB5HA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm glad I'm not the only one :)

I've been eying the EVGA cards:

This one is $119.99 http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Dual-Link-Graphics-01G-P4-2751-KR/dp/B00IDG3NDY

And this one is $129.99 http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Superclocked-Dual-Link-Graphics-01G-P4-2753-KR/dp/B00IDG3LUO

That generic Cooler Master paste gets the job done, but it's really not ideal; if you look up is thermal conductivity on Tom's Hardware it's way down the bottom (it is more conductive than toothpaste at least.)

Grab some of this stuff. It's some of the best paste out there for only $10.

If you're in the USA, you can usually source those for less on Amazon.

A single 65w power supply with a 4-way adapter is more than enough to power four Gridseeds (at 8w each) safely in scrypt-only mode. You could probably power 6 to 8, but I like having space in the power envelope to work with.

Hello shibe!

I'm going to watercool now. I want to do the CPU and my radeon HD 6870. Part of the reason I'm doing it is because the fan on my 6870 broke, and hell, I've always wanted to watercool. So, here's where I'm at.

Thinking this for the cpu, and this for the GPU plus some thermal paste. Now, I don't know if the CPU thing has a resevoir in it, or what. But I think I need to get a resevoir and tubing. And metal bands or something to keep the tubing tight. And I was hoping to get tubes that look crazy or have black light properties.

Anyway! Help me complete my shopping list. Here's some doge! Thanks shibe!

+/u/dogetipbot 100 doge verify

I looked at each based on my findings. I have two PCs that I build/use for gaming/streaming/etc. My old PC with a GTX 750TI and my new one with a R9 290X so those power numbers are base on to the wall numbers got using a Kill a Watt meter. Also prices were what I got them for.

I will update add the Gridseed numbers from GAWMiner as well. Thanks for the input shibe.

This guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBEVTIA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Powered it and everything. Using Zoomhash's image for the Pi.

Running asics through my OLD one right now and seems to work fine.

EDIT: To be fair, the Orico hub worked fine on my windows machine. Just not the Pi.

A: i picked it up used like new(from a seller i knew and have bougth stuff from before so it WAS basically new. just used for a few days)

B: mining fedoracoins im getting 78Kh/s (2 yays a min)

B2: mining doges im getting 76Kh/s (2-5 yays a min)

B3 Mining bitcoins using bitminter im getting 25.8 Mh/s(megahash)

^ all of those are just gpu mining.

C: relevance. its a galaxy gpu and it may be older but its the same brand and same company(same chip?)


amazon link to galaxy geforce gt 640 actually its 89.99 right now i bought mine january 14th

Here's the version I'm using (just set it up a few minutes ago)

Here's the PSU I'm using

And I replaced the stock fan with this one Although it's not exactly an easy swap because the plugs are different, I just connected the fan directly to the PSU. Once I clean everything up in the next day or so, I'll post pics.

I planned on using the Zenminer Controller, but I still haven't gotten it yet.

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IHP58
It is extremely easy to use.

I had the exact same problem! I solved this by installing These

And this should make it easier to get it where you want them.

This regulator has been working well on my car to get from ~12 down to 5v. Way overkill for just a pi though. This should work.

This regulator looks like it can power the fury. I'm not sure if it can boost input voltage up to 12, but it will definitely drop it down to 12.

http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE/

http://www.amazon.com/P3-International-P4400-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1394467429&sr=1-1&keywords=kill+a+watt

I believe this is what people use?

I've undervolted MSI, Sapphire, and Gigabyte cards but not your specific one. Looks like your run at 1.256 out of the box and might not have a GPU BIOS switch? Usually you'll want to switch that over so you have a failsafe BIOS to go back to just in case flashing fails.

If it does not have a switch I think that cgminer may just detect the max voltage for the card so the change might not be apparent on the screen, but if you have a kill-a-watt meter for your plug you will be able to see the difference in the power draw from the wall after rebooting. http://www.amazon.com/P3-International-P4400-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

There's a decent walkthrough here, although it's not specific to ASUS.
http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/09/how-to-modify-video-bios-to-undervolt-gpu-in-linux/

You will have to hack around with it or ask someone with your specific card though. Looking around online I see posts about people running with 1.084, 1.087, 1.2, 1.1 volts, so maybe start at 1.2 and work your way down?

I have heard of people using things such as this: http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396618772&sr=1-1&keywords=belkin+wemo

It's an outlet that connects to your home wifi and allows you to control whether it supplies power or not from your phone, anywhere. Then you just set the BIOS of the rig to automatically power on when it gets power.

If you have some way to remotely monitor the rig, you can keep an eye on it. When it crashes, you turn the power off at the outlet, and then power it back on. The rig should be off when you turn the power back on, so the BIOS would detect power and boot up.