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Ah I see. Well nothing you said made me cringe :) there’s nothing wrong with a light clip around the edges to keep them sharp looking. That won’t hurt their coat at all. For the hocks invest in a steel dog comb (about $7-$10) so you can comb them straight out away from the dog, and then cut a straight line down to the ground. Use a slicker brush for the feet, comb the hair backwards and trim anything sticking up away from the top of the foot. Any straight lightweight shear will work. You won’t be using them so much that you have to worry about high quality. Pick a price you’re comfortable with and get those. The thing about cheap shears is they are usually so tight they are a pain (literally) to use. So loosen them at the screw that’s holds the blades together and they’ll work better for you.
For the body trim, always scissor in the direction of the hair. It grows in all ways. If you cut straight across the chest from east/west, you’ll have a slash mark in the coat. If you scissor at the same angle as the hair (say a 45 degree angle) more like NE to SW you’ll have a nicer clip. Experiment. Trim any hairs you find undesirable. You’ll make mistakes, but it’s hair - it grows back.
You main objective with a double coated breed is getting the fluffy undercoat out. But only the stuff that wants to let go and come out. Don’t force it, A “slicker brush” and possibly a “Rake” is all you’ll need. Run these brushes across your own skin to feel the amount of pressure you should use. That way you aren’t pounding the brush into the dog.

As far as behavior... just act like a professional when you start them. No “playing” about grooming. It’s a part of their life, and if act like you expect them to settle- they will. The less eye contact while grooming, the better, then eye contact and praise when you’re done. Just like they learn to sit and behave when in public, so can they learn to stand still and be groomed. Practice from day one in short one min (tomorrow 2 min, next day three etc) training sessions.

Putting them on a table will help. Like a picnic table if you don’t have a grooming table. Put a towel down for them to stand on, so they feel safe. Don’t attempt to train this from the floor. That’s your play area with your puppy, the table is the grooming area. They figure it out fairly quickly what happens where, and what’s expected of them, Be consistent and they’ll learn it’s just a part of life. Be aware that some puppies scream the first time they are bathed. Just keep your voice monotone and calm but do not stop or hurry. Find a phrase you like to repeat (I say “you’re fine” over and over with a low voice, no squeaking at them) They can’t hold that fear or stress long and when they relax is when you praise. But rushing will only make them more frantic. Remember; whatever you don’t say no to, means you are saying yes. Whatever you allow the first day, they will believe is how it’s always going to be. So be firm, consistent and focus on the result you are trying to train for. Focus will help you know when to praise.
Getting them used to a blow drier is important too. Use a methodical advance and retreat training for this.

I think it’s great that you’re planning ahead. I understand your desire for mapping your path before you even get the dog. I bet you’ll be fine teaching your dog to get groomed by you. You seem very capable and present. Traits that dogs respect and respond to. I know this was a long reply, but I wanted you to have the information you were seeking. Good luck and have fun with all this :)

Whew lad. Sounds like you're in for a bad time but don't let me tell you how to live your life. I'll try to help you as much as possible, but I'll tell you right now that you're better off spending the money you'd be blowing on professional grade tools (which are absolutely necessary on a Newfie, those are one of the breeds you can't cheap out on, even for home grooms) on having a professional groom your dog instead. Newfies are a challenge even for professionals, taking 3+ hours to groom even with all the tools and experience available to them.

All that said, you're going to want to get a good shampoo and conditioner. I personally really like the Espree brand for shampoos, especially the hypo shampoo, because it's gentle on dog's skin and this particular brand still smells good. I recommend the Furminator conditioner. When you're washing your dog, you're going to want to really make sure you're working the shampoo and conditioner all the way down to the skin. Do shampoo first, rinse thoroughly, then conditioner, and rinse forever because holy hell it's gonna take a while to get all that out.

I'm just gonna tell you to not even bother with the hair dryer. That sounds like an exercise in futility. You're probably just going to want to wash your dog one day and then cut the hair the next when it's dry.

You can brush your dog's hair when it's wet, but I caution you to be extra gentle and to be sure to keep an eye on the skin to make sure it's not turning red. If it is, stop immediately (and possibly reconsider your decision to groom at home-- if the coat is in bad enough shape that you're irritating the skin by brushing, you probably need to see a professional). In addition to a slicker brush, undercoat rake, and greyhound comb, I would get one of [these] (https://smile.amazon.com/Matting-Dematting-Detangler-Grooming-Pet/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=safari+mat+remover+for+dogs&qid=1558802854&s=gateway&sprefix=Safari+mat&sr=8-3). It's great for breaking up mats and loosening undercoat, but a word of caution: they are extremely sharp and you will cut yourself badly on it if you're not careful. Fortunately they're designed such that you're much more likely to cut yourself than your dog.

Assuming that your dog is now thoroughly washed, dry, and brushed out, you're going to want to take your clippers and put an attachment comb on them. I prefer the Wahl stainless steel set. You can buy the combs individually, as well. You can put your comb on over the #10 blade that comes with the clippers, or a #15 or #30 for a cleaner cut. Then you just go to town. I very strongly recommend against going no shorter than 3/4" (that's an A comb in the Wahl set). Anything shorter than that is going to ruin your dog's coat. (So don't do a #10 blade either, for the love of god). Use a decent set of grooming scissors to clean up the clipper work when you're done.

I hope that helps. Good luck!

How bad is bad? I love working with the big shaggy dogs, definitely what I miss most.

Are we talkin' blowing coat? Can you grab his coat and chunks of it comes out, or is it thick and mashed together (matted) and you can't get your fingers down to his skin?

If he's in bad shape and you don't know where to start, the best thing would be to see a professional and then pick up the maintenance from there. High velocity dryers that groomers have are able to really make a huge impact in blowing out coat without brushing your dog to boredom or sensitivity. If there's any way at all you can get him in somewhere for a good bath and brush, I'd recommend that. Going to be a lot easier on your dog since getting the big dudes like that cleaned up properly can be a bitch (as a professional, I used to regularly spend three to four hours on my Pyrenees, long haired Akita, Newfie customers).

Since that's probably not an option and you're stuck trying to clean up something that's gotten out of hand, take it in pieces.

So if he's blowing coat, definitely workable from home. Results may not be as nice, but with the right tools and patience, you can get there. If he's matted (and I sincerely doubt he is, but I have to ask because I've seen some weird shit), then he needs to go to a groomer.

Brushes:

• Undercoat Rake - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Soft-Protection-Salon-Grooming-Undercoat/dp/B003GL10DQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404246477&sr=8-4&keywords=undercoat+rake
  
  
• Coat King - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Groom-Professional-Tooth-Coat-Medium/dp/B00B596JGY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404246519&sr=8-3&keywords=coat+king
  
  
• Slicker Brush - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mikki-Slicker-Thick-Coats-Medium/dp/B003QZVJIS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1404246579&sr=8-7&keywords=slicker+brush
  
  Helpers are awesome, treats are totally worth it to make your dude happy. I can't see your dog, I have no idea what's up, but if I had my faroite akita ever that I used work with, here's what I'd do for him:
  
  Start from the bottom of a back leg with the undercoat rake. With your off hand, hold up the hair, with the rake, pull the hair down and brush it out. Doing it like this will help you know you're getting all the way through his coat, to the skin. Also a great way to get to know your dog again and check for cuts, scrapes, bites, lumps and bumps. I've had to be the bearer of bad news for more than one client, "Heeeey.. did you know Molly has a walnut sized lump right here?"
  
  If things are tight, use that slicker brush to help work things out and loosen them up. Quick, definitive brushing. Don't pussy around it, don't be afraid to brush. Obviously don't apply pressure and cut up your dog, but I know slicker brushes seem awful and most people are overly timid.
  
  Keep going.
  
  And brush more.
  
  And more. Ok, now you've done one side from bottom to top, do the other.
  
  Between the rake and a slicker brush you should be able to get through anything. I like using a coat king also, just depends on the dog. Sometimes I have better luck with one than the other, always nice to have both accessible.
  
  Brush until your arms are falling off, cause that's probably what it'll take. But maybe not. Try not to spend more than 10-15 minutes in an area, it can be fatiguing for the dog and you might also irritate their skin. That's not fun.
  
  Once everything's all brushed, give 'em a good once over with the slicker brush to catch loose hair.
  
  Voila.
  
  Hopefully that worked.
  
  Of course, this is all assuming your dog has medium to long hair like this dude here.
  
  That's my two cents. Hopefully if I got something glaringly wrong, someone'll pick up the slack.
  
  Also, before and after pics! Wanna see!

You definitely don't want to go super cheap but also not overly expensive. As in some people suggest cheap Amazon shears or wish shears. I think they are fun for after you have some shears and you want to experiment to see if you can get away with finding a nice cheapie but definitely not starter shears. At the same time some say buy the most expensive you can afford, again that's great but let's face it, when your new you drop things, or may get maintenance wrong and that's fine, it's all part of learning. I highly suggest affordable grooming shears! They have 40 dollar shears in the clearance section lots of sizes, they also have sets. I don't personally use Roseline shears so sadly I don't have a review on them, but they are likely quality shears as well. Lastly check out the GEM group (groomers equiptment maintenance) on Facebook. Lots of awesome info on there!

I also suggest a pair of these Conair shears along with your main set of shears. I am shocked by how well they cut for the price and though I wouldn't be finishing dogs with them they are awesome for dirty work, hard work (chopping of alot of hair off fast), and just having a reliable shear you don't have to worry about. They are also micro serrated so the hair won't slide. I have 2 pairs of the 7 inch ones and love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MBRB9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fvP0CbDYK5MD1

I like Andis 2speed or 5speed clippers for at home use. They are easy to use and maintain.

Most doodles even with a double coat it doesn’t really matter the way it would on a Golden Retriever. If you want to go smooth use a 2g clip on comb. This can be used over a 10 or a 30 blade. I prefer a 30, but 10 works.

You can go longer, of course, but that’s the most manageable length I’ve found.

Make sure your dogs are clean beforehand. Bathe the dogs as close to grooming as possible.

Get a good pair of thinners, you can use these in front of eyes, around feet, to give a natural look, and can also help blend out spots if you’ve had to remove mats, or even to help remove mats from some areas.

The cost of buying everything you need to groom safely at home is probably more than whatever it costs to have him groomed and also there is the probability of a vet visit due to injury. Also grooming your own dog for the first time with no training takes a long time! When I first came out of groomer training it took me 4 hours to groom just one small dog.

Also be prepared for it to look like hot garbage the first couple of times! Safety and comfort of the dog trumps all else. If you are taking a long time and the dog gets irritated with you, come back to it tomorrow.

You can get a pretty decent grooming table off Amazon for cheap, I also have a toy poodle and bought this small grooming table for like $63. A table with a tether is important to keep the dog still and prevent them from licking your equipment, wiggly and kissy dogs are like 85% of the injuries I've seen.

I would recommend using a set of Wahl steel animal guard combs over a #10 blade on a set of wahl or andis clippers. You can probably find a used pair cheap on ebay. Andis AGC 2 speed is good but not too expensive. You might be able to find some used guard combs too.

A short cut like 1/4" or so will be the most manageable. You can use a slightly longer comb on the head for a cuter look. Use the #10 with no comb for paw pads and face. I would actually recommend taking him to a groomer for just his face since that's the most dangerous part.

I would urge you to stay away from using any scissors on the dog since it is way easier to cut them with scissors. Clippers are safer as long as you are gentle and use a light touch. Also if your dog has back dew claws be very careful around them! they are VERY easy to cut off accidentally.

YES it's called a miracle brush, buy this, it will make your life better.

Also, while you're at it, invest in a greyhound comb. It has two sides. Use the wide toothed side to find matts, which you shave out with a clipper with a #10 blade. The fine toothed side will be used to check your work. DO NOT USE THIS TO DEMATT. Also, DON'T USE SCISSORS TO DEMATT. (I yelled this, I actually yelled this).

Next, for double coated dogs, i use a Furminator and a Zoom Groom. Furminator is a blade. Don't do the same area for too long, your dog will get skin irritation. It gets out the undercoat. The zoom groom is good for top coat, and the dogs love how it feels.

Hope some of this helps.

I would also look in to mobil groomers to come to your house. You may have to drop $100, but it'll be worth it. Promise. We professionals know best.

"The Stuff" is a great de-tangler, but I've also had good success with PetHead brand stuff that should be available at any Petco/Petsmart. I use this slicker and any metal "Greyhound" style comb will work.

Okay, thank you! I'll keep that in mind. I have an undercoat rake (the kind that has straight pins, not curved - similar to this one) but I've heard mixed suggestions on how often to use it. Is once per week about right?

I also way overspent on a Chris Christensen buttercomb lol, the one with a fine and a coarse side. I almost certainly could have just gotten a cheaper Andis one but here we are. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

This tool changed the game for me. It gets through mats so much quicker than a normal brush and comb. A few people are suggesting you use shears to saw through the mats; this tool is basically designed to do something similar but it’s a lot safer for you and the dog. You do need to use caution though because it’s sharp (I’ve cut my thumb on it twice while cleaning hair out of it 🤦🏻‍♀️) but it’s a heck of a lot safer than carving at knots with your scissors. I never use it on areas with lots of loose skin or where I can’t fully see what I’m doing.

Also, surprisingly this brush has been my go-to for a while when I’m working on a matted dog. The bristles are super stiff so it gets through tangles very well but the balls on the end help prevent irritation (although it can obviously still cause irritation if you’re not careful). I own several Les Pooch brushes, including their very expensive mat breaker, and I still always reach for my $11 no name brush 😂.

Make sure you’re charging for all of this dematting. My rule of thumb is the customer gets 15 minutes of it at no extra charge but after that it’s $1/minute. This will push a lot of customers to just let you shave the areas that are the most problematic to save money.

This brush: Miracle Coat Slicker Dog Brush, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFRY76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AhnHDb03FP7BJ

Saves me sooo much time dematting, it just glides through way easier. If the coat is very long then

This brush: Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zwnHDbP5YZG89

This one is a dream, pricey but will save lots of time, there is a learning curve with this one though so don't be discouraged if it's a bit awkward at first. Pair each one with a metal grey hound comb.

Best slicker brush I have found on the market. It works great for long coated dogs and imo a must have for poodles and doodles. https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-Slicker-Brush-Large/dp/B00KAJQJ74

I'm all for saving money I take my time using it with https://www.amazon.com/WAHL-Cordless-Rechargeable-Professionals-9766/dp/B00BCGAOUW but it takes forever and always come out too short because I find it impossible to do with these plastic guards. What's your opinion on the plastic guards? I'll probally take your advice and order a #10 too to see how that comes out in playing it safe . If you want to see how short it looks I just posted a pic of my dog after her last home grooming

I bought these off of amazon super affordable and I use them daily!

https://www.amazon.com/Purple-Dragon-Professional-Grooming-Scissors/dp/B07543NCYN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3T1U7UVW3RCUQ&keywords=dog+grooming+chunkers&qid=1574913746&sprefix=dog+grooming+chunk%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-4

Here is the best book to setup a business for house call. https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Guide-House-Call-Grooming/dp/0692916377

We picked up the Safari rake you mentioned, and I had a couple questions regarding brushing.

• With this brush as well as other, do you always brush in the direction of that coat or is it useful to sometime "go against the grain"?
  
  When I was using the rake earlier, I was going along his coat without putting pressure down onto his skin (in both in the direction of his coat). When I was going with the flow of his coat, I got pretty much all the hair, but when I went the opposite direction there were some clumps that I brushed out.
  
  
• With the pin brush / comb I had the same question regarding which direction to brush in.

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