(Part 2) Best products from r/dogs

Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.

Treats

• Himalayan Dog Cheese Chew*: Long-lasting hard cheese chews; can be microwaved to make "cheesy popcorn" for your dog when it gets small enough to pose a swallowing hazard. Comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Brushless Toothpaste*: Our dog LOVES this stuff, and it keeps his breath smelling awesome. Also helps keep his teeth clean. May want to introduce these into the dog's diet slowly, as some are sensitive to the ingredients but acclimate over time. Comes in an even smaller size for the really tiny dogs, and bigger sizes for the big dogs :)
  
  
• Freeze-dried chicken*: Easy to break into small pieces and sprinkle over your dog's kibble or regular food.
  
  
• Stella & Chewy Meal Mixers*: Great to sprinkle over your dog's regular food for both nutrition and novel taste.
  
  
• Fruitables Minis: Small and low-calorie; great for clicker-training your dog. Comes in a wide variety of flavors.
  
  
• Crazy Dog Bacon Treats*: Also small and very-low calorie; another good clicker-training tool.
  
  Toys
  
  
• KONG Mini Squeaky Tennis Balls*: Great for dogs who like either balls, squeaky toys, or both! My dog had zero interest in balls before these, and they're still the only ones he'll play with. Come in lots of sizes; not good for strong dogs who like to chew up their balls.
  
  
• Dog Tornado*: Easy introductory puzzle toy that's not too big for little dogs. Good for kibble, wet food, and treats. May be too big for dogs under 7 lbs.
  
  
• Dog Tower: Another great introductory puzzle toy suitable for small dogs. Good for kibble and small treats. Not sure how this'll hold up to big dogs, although I think it'd be fine with the gentler ones.
  
  
• JW Treat Pod: Kind of like the Kong, but better suited for gentler, 'licking'-type dogs. Easier to clean out as well, IMO; the small Kongs are so hard to get completely clean even with a brush.
  
  
• Outward Hound Flirt Pole: Fun and easy exercise, the Outward Hound version is more lightweight and suited for small dogs.
  
  Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
  
  
• Pet Stairs*: Large collection of pet stairs. Some on this page are suitable for large dogs as well.
  
  
• Hurtta Active Dog Harness*: High-quality dog harness for dogs that love to run around the outdoors in all kinds of weather and elements. Comes in a variety of sizes; for dogs 7+ lbs.
  
  
• Ruffwear Swamp Cooler*: Comes in XXS, XS, and S. Great for keeping your dog cool in the summer if you don't live in a humid area.
  
  
• Hurtta Pet Overall*: Great for rain and snow; comes in a variety of small sizes. Fit perfectly on our Pom mix and very high quality.
  
  
• Musher's Secret*: Protect your dog's paws in cold weather.
  
  
• Sleepypod Clickit*: Crash-tested car harness, comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Sleepypod Mobile Carrier/Car Seat/Pet Bed: Crash-tested dog bed/car seat/carrier!
  
  
• Lil Pals Step-in Mesh Harness: For the seriously small dogs.
  
  
• Ollydog Marin Collar: Completely waterproof, rustproof, extremely durable, easy to put on...the perfect collar!
  
  Grooming
  
  
• The Stuff Detangler and Conditioner*: Keeps your dog's coat looking clean and glossy; easy to apply and doesn't have a strong odor.
  
  
• Lil Pals Grooming Kit: Miniature grooming tools for your miniature dog at a very affordable price.
  
  Edited to add more+formatting!

Yay for adopting from a shelter :). Looking forward to seeing pictures!

-Favorite books: I'm a fan of Patricia McConnell, Carl Lee Benjamin, and Tamar Geller as authors/trainers (I linked to my favorite texts by them). They are all a bit different, but between the three of them and researching them all, I think you'll have a good understanding of what will work best for your pup in ranging intensity and training style. From my experience, it really helps to learn and understand different methods. Owners and trainers that pick ONE method I think are disadvantaged, especially as they come to work with more dogs that have different needs. Just my opinion after being in the field for a while!

-I'd get a 42 inch wire crate with a separator panel. This way, it's the only crate you need to buy, but you can adjust the size as your pup grows. The pup should have just enough room to sit/lay/turn around, but you don't want them to be able to toilet on one end and sit on the other.

-Think of the crate as their safe-spot/lair/bedroom/crib. Unless you are devoting your full attention to them, I'd keep them in the crate (even if it's for a minute while you go to the bathroom!). This prevents accidents (bathroom and destruction) and gets them used to it very quickly. Understand it is not forever, and they probably won't LOVE it, but it's for their safety! I am also always sure to do my best to tire the puppy out before putting them in to help cue "rest mode" and set them up for success, and give them something fun (like a frozen stuffed peanut butter kong) EVERY time you put them in there so they focus on something other than being confined. And finally, never let the puppy out within 30 seconds of crying (wait for them to be quiet so they don't associate it with getting out), and always ask the puppy to at least sit, if not stay, before you let them out (expect to shut the door and prevent them from coming out and restarting 3+ times early on...I promise, it gets easier as they learn). This teaches impulse control, which is VERY important! Use treats as needed early on to guide them.

-Pups need to pee every 2-3 hours, and usually within 30 minutes of eating a meal. Your schedule will revolve around exercise, feeding, sleeping in an ongoing cycle. I'd not let a dog under 1 year old stay uncrated/unsupervised until they prove they are reliable. You would practice leaving them out unsupervised (like while you pee, shower, run to the store, etc) for gradually increasing increments. It might be months, years, or even never, before they can accomplish this. It depends on the dog.

-All life stages foods are good, as are puppy foods for the first 6ish months. Iams smart puppy is a decent blend, but if you have a Costco membership, their puppy food and all-life-stages foods (Nature's Domain) are also of high quality for a fraction of the price of others (like .72 a pound).

-I'd have him seen by a vet within 3 days, yes. Do you get a free month's worth of pet insurance on him or anything? This is becoming more common in rescues. Most puppies also have worms and can take a few cycles of deworming to get them taken care of, so I'd go to make sure he's in the clear/have him dewormed if necessary, if nothing else. Bring your vaccine information from the rescue and the vet can give you an idea of what they need and when.

-Enjoy it and try to have fun! Puppies are TOUGH. They don't have the attention span to walk like a normal dog yet, so the easiest way to exercise them IMO is to use a long line (like 30 feet) and coax them along to follow you in between their sniffing and exploring everything. Do your best to show him the world though. Meet 20 different people of all races/back grounds, 20 different dogs of all temperaments, have him walk on 20 different surfaces, eat out of 20 different containers, etc. etc. to help socialize him. Enroll in puppy kindergarten too! Good luck!!!

I've posted this before, and it's a great list! Originally posted by u/manatee1010 and I have tried several:

I keep this list of brain toy links handy to send to friends who get dogs. It's getting pretty long...

Toys that get stuffed with food and frozen:

• Kong Classic (15-20 minutes) (it sounds like Watson is lukewarm toward this… have you tried mixing a spoonful of canned food in with some kibble and freezing it?
  
  
• Zogoflex Toppl Interactive Treat Dispensing Dog Toy (this can be a stand-alone toy, or if you get a big one and little one they can fit together and dispense kibble) (15-20 minutes)
  
  
• Starmark Pickle Pocket (my big dog really likes this one… we put cheese in it) (20-25 minutes)
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, hard material (good for carpeted areas)
  
  
• Bob-A-Lot (~10 minutes… this one can be adjusted to make it harder)
  
  
• Tug-A-Jug (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Magic Mushroom (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Kong Wobbler (~5-10 minutes)
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball (~10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Pet Zone IQ Ball (this is the ONLY toy my dogs can’t get all the kibble out of. They’ll usually persist for half an hour or so before they give up)
  
  
• Buster Cube (I think this has several difficulty settings… my guys now don’t have one of these, but my dog when I was growing up had one. I’d guess this is probably a 20-30 minute toy depending on difficulty and what you load into it)
  
  
• Treatstik – I have NO idea how long this one takes to load, but it’s on my to-purchase list because it seems like it’s one of the longer lasting toys on the market. If anyone has/gets one, I’m super interested to hear about it!
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, soft material (good for hardwood/tile/laminate)
  
  
• Barnacle (this can be stuffed like a Kong as well… I lost this one when I moved but I think in terms of kibble dispensing it was shorter lasting, maybe 5-10 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treater (I REALLY like this one; super easy to load and clean, lasts 10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treat Ball (another super easy one… <5 minutes)
  
  
• Planet Dog Orbee-Tuff Snoop Treat Dispensing Dog Toy – this one just arrived yesterday so I don’t have a solid rating of its durability yet, but so far it seems great… easy to load, takes the dogs awhile to empty, and super duper quiet.
  
  
• JW Pet Company Treat Puzzler Dog Toy (this one is super easy for them to empty… I’d say 3-5 minutes)
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy (this one is okay, not my favorite… I didn’t like that I had to make a decision about cutting it immediately after opening. It takes ~5-10 minutes to unload)
  
  
• Starmark Treat Dispensing Puzzle Ball - this one is new! I almost bought it the other day but haven't yet; I think it's most similar to a Buster Cube in terms of adjustable difficulty, it's just a softer material.
  
  Time-release kibble dispensing toys (good for work days)
  
  
• the Foobler is great because it works on a timer that rotates to the next of six, ¼ cup food hoppers at set intervals of time (you pick, the options are 15-30-60-90 minutes), which makes it last way longer than most of these toys. This is hard plastic.
  
  
• CleverPet – this has a December release date. I’m way pumped about it and have been in touch with the company… hopefully I’ll be getting one of the first models off the line!
  
  Lastly, there are also these two that I haven’t tried yet, so I’m not positive how to classify…
  
  
• Starmark Crunching Barbell
  
  
• Starmark Treat Crunching Multiball
  
  
  ETA: If you have any others you like (or don't like) that I've left off this list, please chime in!

I have a Golden Retriever puppy, Summit (8 months old tomorrow, he came home at 8 weeks old) and an indoor-only cat, Sprocket (1 year old). The big thing is to be patient and monitor all interactions.

Our cat is very tolerant and go-with-the-flow. He has never hissed or clawed at the dog. Thee was one time the dog did get too rough with him, and the cat meowed loudly for help, but never fought back (which in a way, makes things harder for our situation). Our dog is extremely playful and although he doesn't mean to harm that cat and just wants to play, he doesn't understand that the cat is too little, is not a dog, and cannot be a wrestling buddy.

Tips

• Start by sequestering them in separate parts of the house/apartment. Let them get used to each other's smells. Since we live in a small apartment, we couldn't exactly close them completely out of certain rooms, but if you can, this can be a good step.
  
• Invest in an exercise pen for the dog. Let them sniff each other through the pen. This allows them to see and smell each other without physically interacting with each other. (It's also extremely useful for keeping the dog and your home safe when you can't 100% of your attention to the dog).
  
• Until you begin to trust the dog, make sure she is leashed for all interactions. We still only let them interact when Summit is leashed because he still doesn't understand that he's bigger than the cat and could potentially hurt him. Reward both animals for reacting calm around each other. Initially, reward the dog of nicely investigating the cat as well. Be ready to separate them if one of the animals gets overexcited, or if the interaction is becoming dangerous for one of the pets.
  
• Create a safe space for your cat. Shelves and high-up places for her to go to escape the dog. Maybe even invest in a baby gate similar to this one so that the cat can access a room that the dog can't (note that the dog will have to grow a bit before the size of the door will prevent her from entering the room).
  
  Additional Tips for living with a puppy and a cat
  
  
• Contain the cat's supplies. Find a way to cover the litter box or place it in a room that the dog can't get to. Move the food to a place where the dog can't get it as well (we put Sprocket's food bowls on some shelves that the dog can't reach).
  
• Many Golden puppies will eat anything that can fit in their mouths. This can cause fatal bowel obstructions. Put away all small cat toys and keep them in a place where the dog can't get it. Also, if your cat enjoys toys, invest in some larger ones that the dog cannot easily swallow such as the [Kong Kickeroo](https://www.amazon.com/KONG-Moppy-Kickeroo-Catnip-Colors/dp/B0037PNC1O/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1488061069&sr=1-7&keywords=kong+kickeroo+cat+toy0, https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Cat-Toy/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1488061298&sr=1-4&keywords=cat+ball+track+toy, and the ball-track type toys.
  

Got it. Sorry for the knee jerk reaction, without the info that you were taking her from a deceased owner it seemed like just an impulse decision to adopt a difficult breed.

Here we go. When you get the dog, start with a Two Week Shutdown to ensure the smoothest introduction of your dog to their new environment. This is super important and something i WISH I knew about when I adopted my dog.

General Dog Care Checklist from the ASPCA.

The bare necesseities of supplies:

• Premium-quality dog food. [Taste of the Wild](https://www.amazon.com/Taste-Wild-Prairie-Formula-30-Pound/dp/B000W5SLB8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485423771&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=dog+food) is very popular for being affordable and high-quality<br />

• Food dish
  
• Water bowl
  
• Toys, toys and more toys, including safe chew toys. KONGS are wonderful for keepiing your dog occupied. Fill with wet food or PB, freeze, and give to dog.
  
• Brush & comb for grooming, including flea comb. Look into breed specific brushes
  
• Collar with license and ID tag
  
• Leash, Easy Walk Harness
  
• Training crate
  
• Dog bed (check Groupon for great deals) or box with warm blanket or towel
  
• Dog toothbrush
  
  I don't have experience with huskies but I have heard over and over how they are a difficult dog to own, and require around 2 hours of intense exercise daily. I found this Breed Discussion which may be informative for you. Do you have a dog park nearby? That would be great if its a fenced in area, because huskies are "escape artists".
  
  Honestly, like myself, a lot of were quick to jump the gun on you and didn't offer any real help. I would suggest posting a new post with a title like: "Inherited a husky whose owner died, what are some tips and resources I can read to give this dog a great life?". Definitely include that there are no shelters nearby. Are you in the US?
  
  Hope I helped atleast a bit. If you use the "search" function on this subreddit and search for "husky", you will see users who have "flair" saying that they own a siberian husky. You could PM them and I'm sure they would be more helpful than me. Also try posting in r/siberianhusky/. How old is the dog? Pics?
  
  Sorry again for the insensitive reply at first. I really wish you luck and if you have any questions I'm happy to help!

How much physical and mental exercise is he getting daily right now (in hours)?

It sounds like he's food motivated! An easy way to introduce some mental stimulation is to get some treat dispensing puzzles and feed him his meals in those! If he's never done them before I would get a few and start him off on an easy one first. This one is a great one to get started with and this one has a piece in the middle you can take out or put in for more difficulty. Other than that, just two 5-10 minute sessions of trick or obedience training daily can make a big difference. There's lots of great guides on youtube for that. Taking a fun training or sports class together is also a great way to tire out his brain and body and a wonderful way to bond and become closer.

As far as off leash back yard play time, I always like to recommend a flirt pole. They are super easy to make yourself or you can order off Amazon. I've got a BC/Cattle Dog mix and we like to alternate flirt pole, fetch, tug/keep away/chase, and blowing bubbles!

But honestly if he's getting a lot of exercise and fairly chill, not destructive or having other behavior issues he might just be fine. Not all dogs like to snuggle or be right up in your face all the time.

Congratulations on your new puppy, she's a cutie. You are gonna have a ball! It's practically impossible to totally screw up a puppy unless you are abusive. They all seem to survive our bumbling and inability to speak their language.

If you are new to dogs you don't yet understand that they have a language that you can learn. Please do yourself and your dog a favor and learn a bit of it with this inexpensive invaluable book. it will help you understand what your dog is trying to tell you.
http://www.amazon.com/On-Talking-Terms-With-Dogs/dp/1929242360

Here is her web site with some quick info:
http://www.canis.no/rugaas/onearticle.php?artid=1

Please please throw the Purina food away. If you google the ingredients you will see that it is worse than McDonalds. It contains animal byproducts which is from dead and dying animals as well as any bit of crap they can't put in human food. It also contains corn which dogs can't readily digest and many are allergic to.

Buy a good food made without wheat or corn and with meat as its top ingredient. Here is a link to food ratings. http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/dry/

You want to choose a 5 star food if you can afford it, or a 4 star. Look at the ingredients and remember that this is the ONLY food she will get, she can't go out and buy anything else. You have to feed her the best you can. Follow the directions on the bag for amounts for the dry food.

To give her the best nutrition mix in some good quality canned food or make up a nice chicken stew, with lots of chicken and vegetables like green beans, broccoli and cauliflower to put on top. She's a baby and good nutrition is important. Besides if you love her it makes you feel good to provide good healthy food and watch her bloom.

The bath for the fleas was good. She needs to see the vet right away and he or she can advise you on what to use for her. Vet care is important. Have her microchipped if you can because rural dogs can get lost.

The crate should be big enough so that she has a place to sleep at one end and a place to go potty. If you have a secure room you could put her in there as well. Be sure to give her toys that are soft and squeak and toys that she can chew on. Gently discourage her chewing on anything but her toys. Sometimes a dab of peanut butter on a toy can make it more interesting. Don't give her rawhide chews (avoid giving Greenies at all) when you aren't home though, as they can choke on them.

There are lots of resources on the net for housebreaking. Dogs don't like to potty in their own home so after a few fits and starts she will get the idea. It will be some time before she can hold it for 8-9 hours though. Keep an eye on her after meals and take her out. Watch her and when she goes be an absolute fool about praising her and talking baby talk and anything else she finds exciting. You want her to associate it with good things. :)

Have fun reading and learning. Keep reinforcement positive. If you fuss at her make it short and forgive her immediately. Dogs don't hold grudges, they scold one another and move on. Humans could learn a lot from them.

> Any books or guides you recommend?

• A well balanced trainer so you can properly socialize the dog.
  
• Ian Dunbar's Before and After.
  
• The Puppy Primer and Perfect Puppy.
  
• kikopup
  
• zak george
  
• Pam's Dog Academy
  
• Donna Hill
  
• Training Positive
  
• Kristin Crestejo
  
  > Crate recommendations (we will be doing crate training)
  
  Crate Games and the weekend crate training plan -- adjust as necessary for your dog. Remember, never reward the dog for crying if you know they don't need anything (aka, they've been pottied, fed, etc).
  
  > What should we be prepared for? What will a rough schedule be like for having a puppy around? When do we start leaving the crate open and letting him roam all day?
  
  It can be a bit rough the first two weeks, but get onto a schedule you like ASAP. Feed at x AM, potty after, feed again at x AM/PM, etc. It'll make your life substantially easier. I take water away just before our last potty for the evening. You can start leaving the crate open and letting him roam after the teenage-angst-kill-everything phase. That'll vary by dog.
  
  > There are always debates on the best dog food for puppies and adults, so any input on that would be awesome as well
  
  For the first month, keep the puppy on whatever s/he's on. It makes it substantially easier. Too much change can really upset their digestive system. :) Honestly, I'm a firm believer in keeping your dog on what they do well on.
  
  > When we get him, should we take him right to a vet for a check up, to get established there or no? Are there routine/annual checkups we should be doing?
  
  I personally would. Shelters aren't always the most thorough in their examinations. It isn't really their fault. But, it also allows you to start the socialization process for the vet. Take lots of treats, and reward heavily during the exam - reward whilst the mouth is looked at, paws, etc. It's never too early to start that. Just keep him/her crated or off the floor until s/he's had all the vaccinations!

I would suggest a few things:

• Implement a Nothing in Life Is Free Policy.
  
  Dogs don't know that there is a thing called "obedience training". They don't know why we ask them to come when called, or why we like them to sit to greet us instead of jumping. So, NILIF is a training philosophy that tells the owner to have the dog "ask" or "work for" everything he wants, including pets.
  
  If he wants to go outside, he must sit before you open the door. If he wants his dinner, he must do a task(sitting is an easy starting task)
  in exchange for his food.
  
  My own dog does sit stays and down stays for everything. He sit stays until I allow him to leave when I open to door to my house or car, or when I give him food, etc.
  
  Start small here. The dog has probably not been asked to do all this before, so if he doesn't listen, just back him up from the door and ask again or pick up his food and ask him to sit again.
  
  When you get good at NILIF, you can start asking for more complex behaviors.
  
  Now, it's important to understand that although NILIF will help him listen to you in all circumstances, it will not curb his aggression. His aggression is a matter that is completely separate from your leadership.
  
  
  
• Establish bonding.
  
  Dogs who don't know you are less likely to listen to you, especially if they've been put in an unfamiliar environment. From his perspective, a lot of stuff has changed lately. His parent went away. The people he knows aren't there as often. Don't take him not listening personally. Instead, offer your sympathy. Hand feed him from now on, and while you are hand feeding him, pet him. This will help with the food aggression a bit and it will make him trust you. Get the book Mine! by Donaldson that I linked in my other comment to improve his aggression.
  
  
• If you can, start clicker training him.
  
  Clicker training is fun training for the dog and it will encourage him to listen to you because it's fun. Also, it will help him feel bonded to you and you can use the clicker to help deal with his food aggression-teaching drop it and leave it, etc.
  
  You can either take a clicker class at a local pet store like Petsmart, or buy a clicker and practice tricks in your home for 10 minutes each day. This book is pretty fun

These are the books I read! The training the best dog ever was probably my favorite as it focusses on manners commands like recall, stay, leave it, drop it, yours/mine as well as socialization methods. Puppies for Dummies is a lot about the first week/month/year of dog ownership and includes training but also health info, nutrition, supplies, budget, etc. 101 tricks is basically a party tricks book, not focussed on manners more on obedience training/showing off to house guests. I think it's always good to read a book about your dog's breed too so that was my last one.

Training the Best Dog Ever: A 5-Week Program Using the Power of Positive Reinforcement

Puppies For Dummies

101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog

The Australian Cattle Dog: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet (Your Happy Healthy Pet)

Bully sticks are good options for chewers, and they come in a variety of sizes, cuts, and lengths. I recommend the Barkworthies brand because they have odorless ones that won't smell up your place - they are available on Chewy, Wag, and Amazon. They have curly ones that seem to require a tad bit more effort than the standard stick ones. The Barkworthies ones are fine on the carpet as well - never had any color transfer, and I'm cautious since I'm a renter. There are probably other just as good brands out there, but be cautious about where the product is made - no Chinese produced bully sticks (per my vet).

Another good option are puzzle games. There are tons of types, and they have the advantage of both entertaining your dog, and giving them mental exercise at the same time. Nina Ottosson ones are fabulous, but they aren't very cheap (and can be a bit complicated, and often require more interaction from the human). My dog loves the Ethical Pet brand ones for some reason this is her favorite one. They are kind of boring looking, but she seems to be more willing to engage with those than the flashier ones.

I usually get chicken jerky and use kitchen shears to cut the strips up into tiny little pieces, and use those in the puzzle games as opposed to traditional treats. I also use string cheese and carrot pieces, and she loves 'em.

Have you looked into nosework? This comment does a good job of laying out structured nosework. But, for my dog (Lhasa Apso), I usually just take the cut up pieces of chicken jerky and toss 'em around the room - they have a pretty strong smell, and she just goes off searching. It keeps her occupied for a good bit, and then she just takes a nap.

Have you gone to any training/obedience classes with him or had a trainer/behaviorist work with him? That's a good first step. Look for a trainer or training class that favors positive, force-free methods over corrections. Most of his behavior sounds normal for a young, energetic dog who doesn't know yet what good manners are or why they're worth following. It makes perfect sense for him not to listen to you outside, too; everything else is just so interesting (picture a 10 year-old kid being told to focus on his homework in the middle of Disneyland). It takes a lot of work to get a dog to focus on you outside and near distractions. So patience, repetition, lots more positive reinforcement, and most importantly time and consistency.

The fear aggression is a bit higher priority, though. A behaviorist is good for this. There are also books and videos you can look into in the meantime, such as BAT 2.0 and The Cautious Canine.

There are a couple of other users mentioning the use of a shock collar. If you decide to go the route, put it at the absolute bottom of your list as very last resort. Punishment like that comes with a lot of risks, such as making fear and aggression worse and developing new triggers. Plus, it won't actually show the dog what you want it to do, so it will be a painful "no, don't do that" without showing what the right behavior is--that's achieved through positive reinforcement, time and patience. And you stay consistent with the +reinforcement, you likely won't need the collar at all. All of this in aside from the fact that I and many others do not accept shock collars to be humane or ethical. I don't believe in inflicting pain, and moreover, you can't fix fear with pain. Pain can only cause fear, and in an already fearful dog, that's a recipe for disaster.

One last thing: increase his exercise amount. He's young, so he's got lots of energy and craves and outlet for it as well as mental stimulation. Tiring him out every day will make him substantially easier to handle and train.

No matter what you choose, I wish you good luck. Training will be challenging, but it can also be so much fun. I hope the best for you and him both.

Here's my list of favorite training resources:

• Jane Killion (Great book: When Pigs Fly: Training Success with Impossible Dogs)
  
• Karen Pryor (Great books: Don't Shoot the Dog & Reaching the Animal Mind)
  
• Sophia Yin (Great book: How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves)
  
• Jean Donaldson (Great books: Fight! & The Culture Clash)
  
• Pat Miller (Great book: The Power of Positive Dog Training)
  
• Patricia McConnell (Great book: The Other End of the Leash)
  
• Ian Dunbar. He's done a lot of work with puppies and has a blog and tons of articles as well as a TED Talk.
  
• Zak George
  
• Kikopup
  
• Kristin Crestejo
  
• A great article on canine body language/calming signals: Calming Signals: The Art of Survival by Turid Rugaas.
  
• 101 Things You Can Do With A Box.

I own and love this comb and this looks very similar to a fantastic comb one of my coworkers uses.

For slickers, Les Poochs makes some pretty awesome ones - their red one is amazing at dematting! Unfortunately they're also really expensive! If you don't mind spending, the Pro Brush (F/F) would be the way to go. If you're cheap like me, this has very good reviews and should perform acceptably as well. I personally like flexible slickers, so I recommend them.

Truthfully I seldom use undercoat rakes. A high velocity blow dryer (k9 brand is good - don't bathe at home without a blower, it's a good investment) serves the purpose for me both with my own dog and with the dogs at work. Still, if you want an undercoat rake, stay away from things that have blades - Furminators, Furminator knock-offs, Mars Coat Kings, coat king knock offs. There's a time and place for those but I would not personally use them on a spitz of any breed. Something like this will do. I also like shedding combs though I haven't found one without a handle yet.

Additional stuff: you need a good pair of nail clippers, and I also recommend spray like The Stuff or Ice on Ice to keep things feeling nice and fresh.

A MUTE BUTTON

Ok, but seriously...It's expensive, but I've heard of some breeders sending this home with their puppies. I bought one myself and left it with the breeder during our last visit before pick up so she could let the puppies play with an sufficiently rub their smells all over it (which resulted in us getting a photo of our puppy snuggled up to it a few hours later). It's a great transitional device for them leaving the litter.

Something I do with all my dogs, and maybe something that would be nifty from a breeder, is having a binder with important information pertaining to the dogs, and dividers for different categories. I keep their health records in there, the 3 page document with information we get when I bring them home, registration paperwork, print outs from class, certificates, etc. I think getting a binder to neatly store all important information on my dog is very useful, and getting one from the breeder with suggestions on training, expected puppy behavior, etc. would be pretty useful.

But really, I've never had a lot sent home with me after getting dogs, beyond a gallon bag of food to transition with and a toy that smells like mom.

My Boxer is a connoisseur of puzzle toys. In Minnesota, it gets way too cold for us to go on long walks to curb his energy, so I engage his brain when it becomes a frozen wasteland outside.

I feed Keenan out of a large Kong Wobbler -- he gets at least one meal a day out of this. It takes him about 30 minutes to work out all the kibbles.

IQ Treat Ball is great for pets that work out puzzles super quickly. This is a fairly difficult toy. Be warned, if you have hard floors, this is loudest thing ever. It's also the perfect size to get stuck under sofas with legs.

Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball is easier to roll around and get kibble sized treats out of. It's also a pain to fill and clean. We don't use this one much.

Everlasting Fun Ball is also hard to fill and difficult to clean, but it's tough. When Keenan is on my last nerve, he gets something super delicious in this and it keeps him occupied until he gets frustrated with it.

Monster Mouth is really tough to get things out of for pups. I'll stuff full sized milk bones in this and leave just a tip hanging out so he can try to pull it out. It keeps him pretty busy, but he gets frustrated by this one quickly.

Buster Food Cube is brilliant in design--you can make it easier and harder to get food out of by twisting the opening. This was Keenan's first puzzle toy and when he figured it out, he got a lot of enjoyment "hiking" it through his back legs at a hard surface to make it bounce off and spray kibbles around. It's loud on hard floors. So loud my ex SO threw it away.

I also pick up random puzzle toys at the store when I see them. I can't find accurate representations on Amazon. Most of them are soft/silicone that you can bend to open and put treats in. Keenan likes his big football one because he knows the yummy, big treats go in that one.

Here are two excerpts from Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat that might help:

>Resource Guarding - Case example

>Remy, a 6-month-old, 22-kg, female spayed golden retriever, was presented for growling at family members when approached while she was chewing a raw hide, had possession of a stolen item, or was eating meals. The behavior started at 2 months of age. Her physical examination was within normal limits. She was fed a commercial puppy diet twice daily in the kitchen. The family consisted of two adults and one cat. The owners had been taking the bowl away without warning twice each time that the dog ate a meal. If Remy growled when they approached her raw hide or bowl, the owners reached for her and held her by the scruff. The behavior had progressively worsened in the past 2 months. She had been through an obedience class starting at 4 months. The owners were instructed to stop giving her raw hides, pick up any item that could potentially be stolen, feed her in a crate out of the kitchen, and stop reaching for her when she was eating or had a raw hide. They were to teach “leave it”, ask her to sit for all interactions, and use food lures to move her away from items that she was guarding until she was trained to leave it. In 2 weeks, Remy understood “leave it,” was regularly walking away from items that she previously would have guarded, and was sitting automatically when she wanted attention. The owner was to start counterconditioning at the food bowl and slowly increase the value of the items that were used for “leave it” exercises. In 6 weeks, the owner reported that Remy could be approached at the food bowl without aggression. In addition, when the owner approached the bowl she sat automatically to wait for her treat. She relinquished items on cue when she was told to leave it but the owner had decided for ultimate safety not to give her raw hides anymore.



>Appendix: Counterconditioning to approaches at the food bowl

>The purpose of this exercise is to help your dog feel comfortable when you approach the food bowl. If your pet lunges aggressively when your are near the food bowl or if you do not feel completely comfortable doing this exercise, call a behavior consultant before beginning. Make sure your dog is completely relaxed before beginning.

>Put your dog’s food bowl down with the normal amount of kibble. Stand at a distance from the bowl at which your dog is completely relaxed and non-reactive (no sign of tense body posture, nervous glancing toward anyone nearby, hovering low over food and eating fast, lip lifting, growling, etc.)

>Make sure that you have treats (meat, cheese, canned dog food) which are better than the dry food in your dog’s bowl. Say your dog’s name in an upbeat tone and then toss a treat into the bowl or next to it. Continue walking about beyond the safe distance, occasionally tossing food. As the pet becomes more relaxed and seems to anticipate and look forward to the tossed food, very gradually move a slight bit closer, and repeat.

>Continue walking back and forth tossing food, as well as approaching from different directions, but be careful to never get close enough that the pet becomes less relaxed. Watch your dog’s body language. If it is tense at all, walk away and begin the exercise on the following day, standing farther from the bowl.

>Avoid any scolding or reprimands if the pet makes a mistake and growls. The sessions should be 100% fun, a game. The goal is to teach the pet to want to have someone nearby when it eats, not merely tolerate a person’s presence.

...edit: fixed a copy/paste error

Do you have a good dryer? It may depend on the dog but a lhasa/cocker mix sounds like it would have pretty dense hair...you're gonna want to make sure you have a dryer powerful enough to dry through to the skin, and efficient enough to not make the hair all frizzy. Human hair-dryers aren't often strong enough, but you can get pretty decent velocity dryers on amazon. I have this one and it's really good for my Golden, who has very thick fur. It's small enough to work in a bathroom, and it's not even horribly loud.

Have you taken any psych classes? Intro to Psych is a very good and, IMO, very necessary foundation for being a trainer. It's not animal-specific, but a lot of the info is easily translatable to training animals.

Have you taken an animal behavior class? That's a good foundations class to take if it's offered in a community college or your university, if you attend one.

In regards to being able to read the dog's emotional state: Turid Rugaas' little booklet on Calming Signals is pretty helpful and well worth the $8. I learned a lot from Canine Body Language by Brenda Aloff when I first got my dog. Correctly identifying the dog's emotional state is step #1 in successfully working with dogs.

When you have cats I really don't think crate training is optional, sorry! I really do think you have to do it. It's just the safest thing. And I think the cats would probably be a lot happier if they get to sleep where they normally would. Having as many things as possible be "normal" for them might make the transition easier. I would say put the gate in the hallway leading to the bedrooms (if you have one) and let the cats have that whole side of the apartment.

This is the gate I got. There are probably better ones but the price was right lol. One of the reviews said it held up to their 80lb GSD for a year so I was sold lol. I'm going to pull the door off the cat hole tho so I don't have to worry about it swinging shut on them.

For what it's worth I don't think you're overreacting. The puppy is big and puppies are clumsy and it sounds like they're not all getting along yet. You have to keep everyone safe :)

My 10 lb dog loves the IQ ball and we've got the larger size (4"). We've also got a Wobbler that she enjoys, but I think I should have gotten the Bob-a-lot instead. I borrowed a Bob-a-lot from a friend, and it seemed like it was more challenging and I liked that the hole size is adjustable (I taped over most of the Wobbler's hole to make it smaller). The Busy Buddy Twist & Treat is pretty good too.

Are you looking for training treats, or longer lasting things? I'll give examples of both. Bobb only has 4 teeth and is about 10 years old, also from horrific unspeakable neglect (he also only has 2 legs). Things that have worked great for him:
-Treats: Baked sweet potato. I bake them at home so I can leave them a little bit soft. Super easy, I do peel them but you don't have to.
-Treats: Small bits of meat, cheese, pizza crust, fries, etc. Everything in moderation!
-Treats: Kibble. Bobb loves kibble and this is our #1 treat. We use high quality grain free kibble as treats for his physical therapy exercises and for a lot of our training and enrichment. Dogs don't need to chew kibble so it's great to use for training treats. Easy to factor in to his diet too.
-Long lasting: Himalayan Chews have been a big hit, they are too hard to chew but provide hours and hours and hours of licking and gumming. There are different sizes available.
-Long lasting: Licking stuff out of a small Kong or the Busy Buddy Twist n Treat. Peanut butter, plain yogurt, mashed potato, cottage cheese, canned food, cream cheese. If you're using it for training or reward, you can let him get a few licks.

I have a very neurotic/anxious dog and the best thing I can suggest is time. She was on clomicalm (dog prozac) for 2 years. We tried crating her at first but she kept making her nose bleed by trying to shove it through the wires. So for the first few months we didn't crate her at all, but left her in the bathroom. She scratched the hell out of the door, but oh well. When we were home we tried to get her used to the crate (putting treats in the crate and letting her get them out, then putting her in the crate for increasing amounts of time while we were home, then finally leaving her in the crate while we ran a short errand...etc).
These books (I'll be home soon and Don't leave me) were extremely helpful.

Eventually we were able to crate her full time (a friend who works nearby let her out at lunch). She never liked the crate like some dogs do. Sometimes she would go in when we told her "Ok time to get in your crate." Sometimes we had to put her in there. Everytime she gave us the most pitiful look. For a while she would poop in the crate (out of anxiety, she was house trained) and we would have to clean the crate everyday (and I'd rather her poop in there than injure herself). But eventually that stopped. Suffice to say she never liked the crate, but she didn't injure herself.

Now she roams free during the day (we did it similar to how she was crated...first for short periods, then longer) and she does fine with it.

Separation anxiety is so difficult and frustrating. Just keep at it and keep trying. It's a long process and there's no 100% fix. Just patience (and love, at the risk of sounding corny). Try to introduce him to the crate slowly. Even if he doesn't like the crate, he can learn to tolerate it. And definitely get help from a behaviorist if you're able. We didn't go so far as hiring one, but I went to a few free "anxious dogs" seminars given by a behaviorist that were sponsored by a local dog rescue (where I was recommended the books above) and it gave me a lot of insight.

Hang in there and don't give up!

Meds aren't going to fix your dog's SA without training, but they can definitely help with training. I would recommend working with a behaviorist and picking up a copy of Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs, I'll Be Home Soon, and Don't leave me!, as well as talking with your vet about medications. There are several prescriptions that can help with SA, and your vet is your best bet for finding one that works for you and your dog.

My boyfriend used to get his boxer mix to pull him on a longboard when he was a kid to exercise his dog and it was great fun!

Biking can definitely be a bit safer if you use a specialized biking attachment like this to make it harder for the dog to topple you over.

With any pulling sport it's a good idea to get basic directional and stop commands in (especially if you don't have brakes like on a bike). We plan on doing pulling sports with our next dog and are shopping around for good harnesses to make sure he stays safe.

Trick training is amazing to wear out your dog's brain and you can make major progress in as little as two 10 minute sessions a day. Check out Kyra Sundance's books:

101 Dog Tricks

10 Minute Dog Training Games

101 Ways to do More With Your Dog

Kyra runs the Do More With Your Dog website which is an easy way to earn titles with your dog by doing tricks. At the lower levels anyone can sign off as witness to your dog's tricks to earn the titles so you don't have to be in a class or anything (though classes are fun and the DMWYD website has resources to find local trainers)

You can also check out brain engaging toys such as these (NOTE these toys should be used with supervision so your dog doesn't eat the toy!)

-Ethical Pet Seek-A-Treat Shuffle Bone Dog Puzzle

-Ethical Pet Seek-A-Treat Flip 'N Flap Dog Puzzle

-Nina Ottosson Plastic Dog Brick Interactive Interactive Doy Toy Puzzle for Dogs, Plastic

-Nina Ottosson Dog Casino Interactive Doy Toy Puzzle for Dogs, Wood

Really any toy by Nina Ottosson is a good choice.

Enrichment can also be as easy as not feeding your dog out of a bowl. Try these (can be used with less direct supervision)

-Nina Ottosson Dog Treat Maze

-Kong Wobbler

And my dogs have constant access to these chewies (i leave these in their crates as well as long as they don't chew them down small enough to be choking risks).

-Nylabone

-Busy Buddy Treat Holding Bone

-Busy Buddy Jack

-Refills for the above Busy Buddy bones

-Busy Buddy for extreme chewers

Our dog generally doesn't bark at people passing close but sometimes does if they talk to us or try to approach. I'm very firm with people that they can't approach because she's uncomfortable and we don't want her to practice barking.

You'll want to recruit some friends to help you. You'll want to find the distance where your dog is comfortable passing people and give treats to your dog as you pass. Then you can move a bit closer and do the same.

Our behaviorist also advised us practicing a "pet" command. As we pet we would say "pet" so with strangers she'd maybe know what to expect.

I found Patricia McConnell's booklet helpful: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1891767003

Kikopup also has some videos about barking while out on walks: https://youtu.be/Eo-L2qtD7MQ

It also takes time. We've had our dog five months and last weekend she was around a large family event with very little uncomfortable barking. That would have been impossible with her a month or two ago but we've done a lot of practice passing strangers, other dogs, treating and I think she trusts us more and has more confidence.

If you want to true and utter control you should get a Chia Pet. You can find them here; https://chia.com/ .

​

1. Puppies and adult dogs don't like to be alone, they want to be with you. They follow you around.
   
2. Puppies and dogs, like people, like to know what's going on in their surroundings. It's an inborn survival trait.
   
3. That's also why they try to lead when walking. Puppies and adult dogs see the world through their nose, it's how they get and process information about their surroundings.
   
4. Your puppy is not trying to control you, he/she already knows you are in charge. Puppies and adult dogs behave in ways designed to get the things they need from you. They need food, they need love, they need stimulation (walks/play/exercise). Stop trying to 'control' your pet and instead 'teach' them to use the behaviours that you like by rewarding those behaviours with good things, i.e.: treats, play with a favourite toy etc.. Ignore the behaviours you dislike, i.e.: bringing him back to his place without comment, turning away when he jumps up on you etc.. You and your pet will both be happier. Please don't buy into any dog whispering bullshit, you'd be better off buying a book like this; https://www.amazon.ca/Talking-Terms-Dogs-Calming-Signals/dp/1929242360/ref=asc_df_1929242360/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292939055252&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8123898998845343117&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000855&hvtargid=pla-426747736299&psc=1 and learning how to communicate with your pet.
   
   ​

Easy solution to trash digging is to simply get a locking trashcan or put the trashcan in a place the dog cannot access.

From the way the dog acts it sounds like he isn't getting nearly enough exercise and or mental stimulation. Just because you have a big yard doesn't mean you don't have to exercise your dog. Especially if you just let him out and expect him to "play with himself". I have a fairly nice sized fully fenced yard and my GSD still gets 3 walks a day plus interactive playtime with me about once a day.

If your dog isn't interested in tug, fetch or frisbee, then the next step would be to run your dog. If you aren't in the best physical shape then what you can do is buy a cheap bike and purchase a Walky, run him for even just 20-30 minutes hard and I guarantee you his unruly behavior will decrease. I will note though, since he's a large breed dog I would wait at least until he's 12-15 months old to start doing this, as you can damage his joints by exercising him too hard before his joints have fused. Also get a kong, you can keep him occupied for at least 45min-1hr by putting peanut butter in it, freezing it, and then giving it to him.

I'd also recommend crate training him so that if you don't want him around guests you can crate him and you know he's safe. You can also crate him when nobody is home to guarantee your property and your dog's safety. Another thing you can do is buy a tie out and put it in the middle of the yard so he can't smash and paw on the door.

I'd definitely second getting a trainer to help you with his behavior in general though, it sounds like you aren't communicating with him in a way that clicks with him (remember, every individual will respond differently to different training methods), a seasoned trainer with lots of experience will probably be able to teach how to
communicate with him in a way that let's you communicate what you want him to do.

Lastly, you need to be patient with him, the Akita is a breed known for being very stubborn and hard to train, so you have to remember to manage your expectations. Just be consistent with what the trainer tells you to do and you will see results.

The less you know about a dog's history with cats, the more precautions you should take in my opinion. You can always let your precautions go as time goes on, but you can't undo the dog terrifying or even injuring the cat. I had originally written out what I did with my new dog (a week and a half in now), but I don't feel comfortable laying out my path for someone who has a terrier. Here are some tips:

• Put your cat's food, water, and litter all in the room they're enclosed into so they're not too scared to eat/eliminate. Make sure your cat gets attention in there, so for instance my cat was in my bedroom which meant we had quality time in bed at night/in the morning.
  
  
• Rather than locking your cat in, you can get a dog gate with a cat door in it (I have this one ). A dog could easily wedge into the cat door or pull down a tension gate so it's definitely only a supervision thing, but it will let your cat explore at his/her own pace.
  
  
• Crate train your dog ASAP. You don't want the dog loose while you're out of the house or sleeping. It will also help to have the dog contained and let the cat wander through the room to see the dog's reaction.
  
  
• Especially if you use the gate, the dog must be leashed at ALL TIMES when not in her crate.
  
  
• Whenever the dog sees the cat, ask her to look away. This is going to be your gauge for how possible this situation is. It can range from: her looking directly at you and forgetting the cat was even there to looking at you but checking back in on the cat when he moves all the way to cannot be distracted even with treats.
  
  
• If things progress to them checking each other out closely (dog still on leash), let the cat correct the dog. This is important for 2 reasons: you want to make sure that the dog's response to a hiss and swat is to back off (not defend or bite) and you also want the dog to learn that the cat is the boss.
  
  I am lucky in that my dog is already off leash and unrestricted when I'm home, she deferentially walks around my cat and won't walk through a doorway if my cat is sitting in/near it. She is all tail wags and friendly but so far has not crowded the cat. She is still going to be crated for a long time when I sleep/am gone, especially because once she settles into the house in a few weeks she may become more confident and start harassing him.
  
  Introducing an adult dog to a cat is a full-time job that will probably last at least 6 months if everything goes well. You have your work cut out for you trying this with an adult terrier who already likes to chase raccoons (though, my dog fixates hard on squirrels outside but that behavior doesn't translate to my cat).

I ended up with the most energetic and playful Newfie in the world, and she loves to chase the cats so I have some experience in this.

• First, I never let the puppy out of my sight. She's in whichever room I'm in, if I leave she's in her crate. When I use the restroom or shower she's sitting in the bathroom doorway. If she tries to leave the room I call her back and give her a treat. She's pretty good about that.
  
• Second, there are parts of the house she's NEVER allowed in--the kitchen and the laundry room. The kitchen is where everyone's food is prepared and where the cats eat and drink, the laundry room is where their litterbox is.
  
• Third, my cats have lots of high places to go to if they don't want to be hassled. They have a cat tree, shelves, and they like to hang out on the back of the sofa (my dog doesn't like furniture, luckily).
  
• Forth, I recognize and reward when she ignores the cats, and call her to me if she's gets too close.
  
  Obviously all of this requires training and conditioning, but it was very worth the time. You can also get baby gates with a little pet door on the bottom. If your pup is especially unruly and disregards boundaries, gates like that are great.

• Labs are notoriously fast eaters, so maybe a puzzle toy? Here are some good ones: 1, 2, 3. You can also never have enough Kongs, and they're sold at big box pet stores.
  
• A cool fetch toy might be fun too, like a Chuckit or a Ball-on-a-Rope. You can find Chuckit products at the big box pet stores. I like the ball-on-a-rope for training...I can throw it, tug with it, dangle it like a flirt pole, and it fits in my pocket. This Frisbee is good for training too because I can fold it up and put it in my pocket. Plus it glows in the dark and floats!

We have three cats and a dog. Both this dog and our previous dog LOVED cat poop. Two key items 100% solved our problems:

1. Doorway gate with cat door: https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Tall-Gate-Small/dp/B000JJFNJK/
   
2. Litter cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/Merry-Products-Washroom-Bench-White/dp/B004E8M7PK/
   
   As a bonus, the doorway gate provides a room where the dog is never allowed. This is pretty key to most peaceful cat/dog coexistence situations. The cats need to know they have a space they can retreat to that is safe and all their own.

So sorry to hear about your dad, I hope he's doing better!

I would not expect Oscar to grow out of this, but there are things you can do. I'd drop the retractable leash and start using a front-clip harness or a head halter to give your dad more control and to be used in conjunction with training. Here are some resources for training loose leash walking that might be helpful. It might also help to work directly with a trainer, here is some information on how to find a good one.

ETA: exercise outside of walks is also important. This thread provides a lot of great exercising ideas.

I have a 1.5 year old Labrador with an endless amount of energy. I take him on a bike ride almost every single morning and depending on energy level some times twice a day.

He has the Easy Walk harness http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427159959&sr=8-1&keywords=easy+walk+harness
Basically uses his body weight against him.

I bike with my left hand on the bike at all times and my right hand free with his leash wrapped around my wrist. He caught on quick and will stay right by my side 90% of the time. There is an occassional lunge here and there at a squirrel but with my arm off the bike it just whips him back around with the easy walk harness (uses his body weight against him and pulls him around towards you).

I never thought the ones that attached to the bike were safe seeing as my 85lb dog is pretty powerful. He can yank on my arm all he wants and not pull me over but I worry with the bike attach ones he could alter the bike enough to possibly cause me to crash.

My dog quickly destroyed the West Paw Zogoflex Hurley Bone and the Tux. He also quickly destroyed an XL black "classic" Kong and a black Kong bone. I got him a new XXL black Kong and he's only interested in licking peanut butter out of it, I think it's too big for him to really chew on (which was my intent.) We haven't tried Goughnuts, but we might in the future.

The West Paw and Kong Extreme toys just aren't as indestructible as I thought they'd be. I haven't tried it, but the black Kong ball might be good - I find that spheres are good because they're hard to hold when slippery with slobber and this keeps dogs from being able to surgically attack a weak spot / seam / hole.

Things that he hasn't destroyed are these:

• Set of 3 rubber balls - very similar to lacrosse balls, but probably way cheaper. I wish they were a little bigger, though. If your dog is really big and has a huge throat these could present a choking hazard, but they're fine for my 78 lb dog. They also don't have a hole in them as a choking safety breathing hole, so keep that in mind.
  
  
• [Just the squirrels](https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Squirrel-Squeaky Puzzle/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=lp_2975413011_1_2) - this might be because my dog is a weirdo but he just likes to chase and gently chew (mouth) the squirrel. Plus you have 2 as backups. I think maybe it's almost too small for his big mouth to really pick apart. They sell just the squirrels as well as "refills" which might be even better, as my dog did start ripping apart the plush hiding "log".
  
  
• Split elk antler - I like the split one because it keeps him focused on gnawing out the softer marrow and not gnawing or chewing on the harder outer bone. Plus now that he'd dug out some of the marrow I can fill it with peanut butter and freeze it.
  
  Also, Nylabones (the really big Galileo is good) and jumbo Benebones, although they can get sharp nubs which can cut gums, so I got a heavy duty metal file typically used for metal and it works really well to file down the sharp prickly places.
  
  

He can improve with continued work, but given what is known about the genetic and developmental basis for fearfulness, I don't think he's going to outgrow it, ie, completely become a normally non-fearful dog.

It's important that you control socialization to make it all good. The outdoor restaurant was too uncontrolled, and resulted in more harm than good - the biggest positive was probably the encouragement it gave you that he could do well with large groups. That's important, but was offset by his having 4 unintended lessons in growling and barking and menacing children.

This book is often recommended for fearful dogs.

https://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-How-Conquer-Their-Fears/dp/1891767003

Working with a behaviorist is very, very helpful.

Sorry for the delayed response! Our aussie was only destructive if he was left outside, and trying to get back inside. He's inside with use when we're home, and I think his anxiety was worse by not being in his comfortable place (inside). The two biggest things for us were getting him plenty of exercise, and also training him to be alone and be happy.

For separation anxiety, theres a good book that's cheap on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539894781&sr=8-7&keywords=separation+anxiety+book

We followed this to the letter for about a month and made amazing progress. Now that it's been about 6 months we still give him a kong every time we leave, but for the most part he's ok being alone. Having a camera to check in on him while we're gone was also critical leading up to the longer durations of being alone as well. I'd say it took a solid 3 months before we could comfortably leave the house for 2-3 hours and leave the dog alone and not worry about him. We also bring him to doggy day care about once a week which helps with his energy levels.

One, she's probably going through a teen phase of seeing how far she can push, mine did at around that age. Two, it doesn't sound like you've been consistent enough - my GSD and I didn't 'walk' during her pulling phase. We basically moved two meters, she'd pull, I'd u-turn and we'd start again. We moved all of oh, 2-10m from my door for days. What tools are you using to make this easier for yourself? Easy walk harness? Gentle leader? Are you clicking and treating for check-ins? I frustrated the utter crap out of myself teaching it, but it worked. How often are you training? Are you letting your GSD work for food?

You also sound like your GSD has leash reactivity, which the breed seems to lean towards a little. Have you read into the CARE Protocol and worked on thresholds?

Focus wise, you have to train it. Work on focus by rewarding check ins throughout the day. Also work on focus as a training endeavour like this, and this.

Impulse control - it's yer choice and crate games, and of course impulse control games with tug/toys.

Other resources: Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt, Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out by Laura VanArendonk Baugh, Fiesty Fiedo by Patricia B. McConnell, and Fenzi Classes.

TL;DR: This is pretty normal GSD behaviour, and may be part of a teen phase. Keep chugging.

What about using a hand's free leash for her? Something like this. That way she's leashed but you can still have both hands on the other dog's leash.

I know someone else already mentioned a front-clip harness, but I have to mention it again. My dog pulls like crazy on a regular collar or harness, but the front clip harness has made things so much easier. If I want to put her in a 'heel' position, all I have to do is shorten how much leash she has. If she sees a squirrel and tries to bolt, she gets turned around at the end of the leash and can't dig in and pull me where she wants to go. It's really amazing. This is the one I have.

(We are also training her to walk nicely while using it, but it has made such a difference.)

I highly recommend The Stuff after bathing and conditioning! Its a finishing spray that leaves the coat very light and in most cases will even keep your dog feeling cleaner longer. You can even use it in between baths when you brush to keep his/her coat feeling nice and soft.

Another great thing about it is that you never need much and a bottle will last you months for a little yorkie :)

That's a stressful life for the cat and a bad habit for the dog. I think you need to do some home improvement to create high, safe spaces and escape routes for the cat. Look up "catify" for ideas; also get pet gates with cat doors, something like this. The cat needs to be able to relax and feel safe (and be safe) in its own home without resorting to hiding in a closet or under the bed.

On the training front, I would interrupt the stalking and redirect the dog. Teach a "go to place" cue, and also work on general training, attention, and settling. Anytime the dog relaxes with the cat in sight, reward. If you see no improvement over a few weeks, consult a behaviorist.

I have this one. It's not exactly top of the line, but it's a pretty good value for the price. I got it last summer, and It's worked well for my GSDs.

Oh man, I have so many of them right now. I'm a huge fan of the Kong Wobbler but it makes too much of a mess on my floors (attracts ants -_-). I also have the Kong Tiltz which is apparently not as fun to my Shiba lol. I'm about to get a snuffle mat for Matcha! We have an IQ ball which also isn't very interesting to her lol. I have a few Starmark toys since they have lots of different interactive toys as well.

I also have this thing, which Matcha is still convinced is a chew toy lol.

The first two issues (going to the bathroom indoors and the aggression) call for a vet visit.

Excercise-wise, I'd start with two 15 minute walks/day and scale up from there to, maybe, three 20 minute walks, or 60 minutes of walking or outdoor play spread out over the day (20 in the morning, 40 at night, etc).

Puzzle toys are great too. I recently got this toy for my pup, he really loves it, it's solidly built and pretty inexpensive.

I love the twist and treat (link). It's nice because you can set the difficulty by deciding how tightly to twist the top down. I screwed it down all the way the first time, and my dog couldn't figure it out, but once I loosened it, she was able to really start working on it. Now that she's realized how to twist it open (she's also part pittie and used to just stick her jaw in there and wedge it open!), it still takes her a while to rub it against the carpet while pulling at the top. Good luck!

I have this bike attachment for riding with my dog and I love it.

My dog is pretty good on leash, so getting him to do it on a bike was pretty easy. I did it in the following steps:

1. Put him in his harness, attached the bike lead (with no bike) and just took him for a walk with it.
   
   
2. Attached him to the bike, and walked the bike with him around the block.
   
   
3. Went for it.
   
   I don't know, it's very possible I under thought it, but it really worked pretty easily for me. No accidents so far.
   
   A couple of tips I've found:
   
   You should not pull your dog! If you start to notice it's a little harder to go, it's because he's lagging. Slow down, or let him stop. You can really get your dog up to a "sprint" on your bike, which my dog loves, but he just doesn't last very long. When I'm going fast, he can only got about 3 miles (when I started, it was about 1.5 miles). Make sure you bring water, a bowl and poop bags.

The Kong Wobbler and Bobs-a-lot are great toys. I also use a Tricky Treat ball a lot. My dogs also really love the Snoop.

You could also try the Tug-a-Jug, Kibble Nibble, or Buster Cube.

Gentle Leader's "Easy Walk" works great for my large boxer. Connects at the chest, so if he tries to pull, it just turns him around, he effectively stops himself. Under $20. Doesn't "squeeze" the chest.

http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1343305037&sr=1-4&keywords=Gentle+Leader

Does he have a Kong already? Puzzle treat toys like that are almost always a hit - I have a Kong and a branch toy like this you can put kibble in. I also think the Hide-A-Squirrel game is adorable. Those, a rope bone for tug, a flirt pole, a frisbee, and a grunting pig comprise Tess's favorite toys.

Treat dispensing toys, puzzles, flirt pole (puppy can play with this some but no jumping or sharp turns), kongs, crate, training treats, blankets, enzymatic cleaner. And beanie babies for my dog that is obsessed with them :P

You can also get food/bully sticks/antlers on amazon but I usually order them from chewy.com

Edit:

Here are some of our favorite training treat brands.

Treat dispensing toy examples

We have Labs and have to slow them down while eating or otherwise they can get bloat, which is potentially lethal.

The behavior consultant we hired to iron out some cat cohabitation issues recommended we feed our dogs by putting the food in one of these.
Works great, and it's actually intellectually stimulating for the dog.

There are SO MANY things you can work on training, even with a small space. I've used this book but you could look around for one that seems interesting to you. It's really amazing how even 30 minutes of mental stimulation can tire a pup out.

Yep - hard surfaces can be extremely echoing if you don't have anything down.

Also make sure to keep up on nail trims.

If you're looking for food toys that are more apartment friendly I highly recommend this one it's not the most challenging but it's relatively quite and my dog loves chasing it around.

I agree with that- and it may sound a little 'over the top' but they make [[https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS\]](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS](https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS)">stuffed) stuffed animals (dogs) that have a 'heart beat'. When I worked at a shelter, we used these when puppies were brought in alone or had to be separated. Could be a good idea to purchase one and set up for the puppy when you need to leave (showering, going to work, etc.).

I would try with amazon if it’s not too late. this is a great treat ball, made of rubber and it has got also some accessories to make the game more challenging!

My go to toy for Charlie when she's home alone is always a Kong with mix of kibble, veggies, chicken/turkey and peanut butter/greek yogurt depending on what I have in the fridge. Freeze overnight. Charlie loves working on those and they're indestructible. Another treat dispensing toy Charlie likes is the Pet Safe Buddy Twist Treat.

I smear peanut butter or greek yogurt on the insides and then put her kibble in. Takes her maybe 5-10 minutes to finish if I haven't put it in the freezer overnight.

You could try switching to a fish flavored food. However, Earthbath makes a few deodorizing sprays that work as leave in conditioners. Our groomers use The Stuff its concentrated so it lasts forever. Smells amazing and definitely helps keep flakes away!

Biking is the best! It's been a lifesaver with my dogs. I use the Walky Dog bike attachment and it's been amazing. My jogging speed is more like their slow trotting speed, but with the bike they get to all-out sprint. Plus my boy is fairly dog reactive but on a bike we go by so quickly that he hardly has time to notice other dogs.

Zoe is a toy destroyer! I've found a few good toys that I will list below.

1. Bionic Urban Stick This thing is indestructible! It also has 2 holes in the ends for treats to be stuffed into.
   
   
2. Flatskinz This is the only plush toy Zoe can have without destoying it and swallowing all the fluff...because there is no fluff.
   
   
3. Twist 'n Treat This isn't for sure indestructible, but it's quite tough. She LOVES this and you can adjust it for many different treat types, but I have to take it away once shes emptied all the food out, otherwise she gnaws on it and can break it a little bit.

Hide a Squirrel! Our corgi loved that, too - then he got too good at ripping out the chipmunks and lost interest 8( When he was a baby it would take him quite a while to get them all out, now he can rip them all out in about 10 seconds...

Wood Treat Puzzles like the ones Zanie's, Ethical Pets, and Nina Ottosson make are all ones my pit likes. Since they're made of wood they'll last a while. Also the Premier Tug-a-Jug has kept him guessing for 2 weeks now.

Unless it's under direct supervision or for under a few minutes, my dog does not have access to my kitchen (which by default means the rest of my house). She isn't even bad about chewing or counter surfing. I just decided her need to be near me is less than my need to keep her safe by keeping her out of the kitchen. There are dangerous things to eat, knives, and hot things along with the safer, but annoying things to access. It was hard to begin with but now when I go to cook or clean, she just flops down onto the couch and has a snooze. Not saying that you can't safely have a dog in the kitchen, just my dog is not that dog!

For your pocket door issue, I would recommend a baby gate with a cat door. Pepper might be be able to shimmy through this if she can get through a regular cat flap but it seems like it would be harder. Also, you can set it far to one side and allow smaller animals through the gap on the other side (discovered this trick when my sister visited with her small dog and would escape daily)

As someone below commented...it sounds like you are already providing this dog with WAY more exercise than someone else who will adopt him will. I'm not saying this to make you feel guilty for giving him up, more that you shouldn't feel this guilty if you decide to keep him.

I think there are a lot of other options an ways to tire him out besides just running with him. You can look into biking with him, which will tire him out faster than it will tire you out. I've heard great things about [walky dog] (http://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453499821&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=walky+dog&psc=1) There is NOTHING that tires my crazy dog out more than playing with other dogs. An hour trip to the dog park will tire him out for the rest of the day. And I take him to doggy daycare usually about once a week, and he is tired to the point where he can't even keep his eyes open on the car ride home.

I do agree with whoever said that you should focus on getting your asthma under control first (I have asthma too) and then see where you're at with your dog. I have a feeling once you get that sorted out you might really regret giving up Arrow!

I like this kind:

https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Wide-Through-44-Inch/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465859911&sr=8-1&keywords=pet+barrier+with+door

You can
screw in these cup things to the door for more strength or you can just use a good amount of pressure to keep them up. My cats like to launch themselves over the gate and just using pressure is enough. Plus, I don't have to keep putting them up and taking them down.

I always recommend Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar, because it really puts into perspective the responsibilities of owning a dog, and the potential long-term consequences of not meeting these responsibilities. It's also an excellent read to learn more about preventing behavior problems, because in my opinion, it's so much easier to prevent behavior problems than it is to try to resolve them later.

Undercoat rakes are good. I also use a shedding blade and a zoomgroom.

The most effective tool I have for my GSD (not long haired) is a high velocity blower.

I've been enjoying this book a lot and many people recommend it. If you want a taste of it a lot of his info is on this website for free


Edit: a word

My dog loves the pickle pocket, she spent over an hour working on it just last night, and went back to it this morning. I've also heard some dogs like this Hide-A-Squirrel Toy, so that's an option that doesn't involve treats/food.

Mine is adjustable and tightens up as much as you want. I guess if a M doesn't fit you need to get a L, but it should not be moving. Tighten up the neck portion so that it is riding high on the chest and then adjust the belly section so that it does not move. It should not touch the legs at all.

FWIW I have a PetSafe "Easy Walk" brand and it comes in many sizes.

I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJDI0G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which has a cat door, but you can close that easily so they can't get through. It worked well for us until our 60lb lab mix figured out how to get through the effing cat door. Still can't believe that happened.

My dog enjoys both equally so what I do is one day we walk, the other we jog. I also have a bike attachment for lazy days. Hiking is also a good alternative for weekends. There are many people with husky and working type breeds that do bikejoring and dog scootering that you may want to look into as well.

Hey there! I would recommend you check out Dr. McConnell's book on separation anxiety. It is a short read and available from Amazon for $5. It can take a bit of work and several weeks, but it is well worth it. You can consider using your CleverPet Hub to keep them busy once your departure does not bring them over-threshold. Here is where you can find the book: https://www.amazon.com/Ill-Home-Soon-Separation-Anxiety/dp/1891767054/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506700688&sr=8-3&keywords=separation+anxiety+dog+book

Speak to the people who currently have the dogs and have them put a couple of blankets or towels with the dogs as they sleep so the fabrics pick up their scents, have them rub the fabric on the dogs, etc. When you pick up your puppy, take one of the pieces of fabric home with you. If you can order from Amazon, these Snuggle Puppies can help with the transition as well - they mimic a heartbeat and the warmth of a sibling (I didn't use the branded warmers, I just used the cheaper one-time use hand warmers that are basically the same thing). Give him lots of snuggles and attention and don't make him sleep alone the first few nights (it can be in a crate or pen, but let it be in the same room as you...for us, I had the crate next to the couch so I could put my hand in the crate any time he whined or cried at all).

the shelter i volunteer at gives kongs to all the dogs. i've never seen them tear one up. maybe i'll see an indentation on the kong, but i've never seen one break a piece off. seriously, hundreds of dogs, never an incident like you're describing. saint bernards, pit bulls, german shepherds, no kong incidents.

peanut butter alternatives: you can fill the kong with food mixed with peanut butter. sometimes i'll put rice and chicken in the food processor until it's a thick paste and fill the kong with that. or, you can make some "honest kitchen" wet dog food, put it in the kong, leave it in the fridge, and give it to her when you leave.

kong alternatives: i like busy buddies. I started with this one and moved up to this one (removed the rope) for my dog. This is where she gets all her food now. You can fill it with normal food if you're worried about the dog's weight. These are a little harder, so if the dog doesn't seem interested when you introduce them, you can fill them with really high value treats like hot dog pieces until she gets the hang of it.

you can give her the toys when you leave and take them away when you get home. Some people don't like to take the toy away when the dog is using it -- because it can lead to food guarding -- but that may be no big deal if you're only working on separation anxiety.

it sounds like the dog needs a lot of enrichment. in addition to toys, i would also check out clicker training. it's a good way to exercise the dog's mind and anyone can do it.

also, don't give them rawhide. bully stick instead.

more walks may help. take her down to the park and meet men. i don't have a fenced yard, either, so i got a 30ft leash so my dog can run around. i also run with the dog every now and then.

there's no magic bullet, but there are a lot of small things you can do. all this sounds like a big pain in the ass, but it's probably easier than cleaning up a bunch of trash when you get home.

also check out /r/dogtraining. there are people with actual qualifications there.

and if you decide to get professional help, check their qualifications. CeXXr MXXXn is like the Scientology of dog training. A lot of "trainers" and "behaviorists" will claim to be a "member" of a dog training association. That just means they go to conferences and pay dues. There are lots of CXXar MXXXns in disguise, like BXXk BXXXXXs. You want a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a Certified Pet Dog Trainer or a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant.

EDIT: Formatting

Owner of a naughty shih poo and dog groomer here. I basically went to grooming school because I was sick of paying for his monthly grooms! I'd definitely recommend a small table and grooming arm, a small dryer, a pair of adjustable clippers (you can use these to trim pads and do sanitary cuts as well as regular clipping), and either a set of clipper combs or just the lengths you like. I'd also recommend a pair of straight shears and thinning shears. I use Aussie Dog shears at work because they are inexpensive ($99 for 3 pairs) and have a good weight to them but any petedge shears would probably be fine for the light trimming you'd be doing.

I groom my dog once a month usually. I bathe, dry, brush and comb him. I dremel his nails, pluck his ears, give him a sanitary trim and shave his pads. I usually use a 1/2in clipper comb on him just to keep him tidy (he really hates being brushed so I try to keep that to a minimum. I then round his feet and use my thinning shears on the corners of his eyes. I usually give him a little schnauzer head for simplicity (#10 blade on the top of his head and ears, little eyebrows and just trim the beard) but I have given him a shaved poodle face in the past.

Finn plays with most of his toys on a big area rug. He knows to pick it up and take it back to the rug when it rolls off. I taught him by picking up his toys and taking them back to the rug every time they fell off. He eventually got the picture.

Even so, our favorite toys are soft rubber ones. The Omega Paw Tricky Treat ball is great, and so is the Orbee Tuff Snoop. To make the Snoop harder, you can buy another ball to put inside it.

I bike with my dog and use this bike attachment, this harness and also [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IJQDC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for her paws. She loves it. Here's some pics.

Kyjen has a lot of different puzzle toys with toys as rewards. Hide a squirrel and Mystery tree are two that come to mind.

edit: I went ahead and added the amazon links for both products

No problem, hope it helps! Also, for no pull leads for dogs I really like the Gentle Leader and the Easy Walk if that's an option you are also interested in for general leash walking manners.

I've never used OPs harness. Our problem pooch uses the Gentle Leader which works wonders since it controls her head (and is thus uncomfortable to pull). The Easy Walk worked for her until she learned to manipulate it, but is still a great tool for our non-problem pooches, and is probably less easily manipulated when walking one.

I would also add a shirt that smells like you to the crate, and a heartbeat dog toy like this one http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1449847346&sr=1-1&keywords=heartbeat+dog+toy

He is used to sleeping in a warm pile of other puppies, and misses it.

I’m sorry I don’t have advice but that is so sweet! I just found this thing and thought it was so cute! Maybe she would like it!

SmartPetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy, Brown Mutt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2giODbGRJ7JDK

My two current faverites are the Tricky Treat Ball and the Tug-A-Jug.


For the ball getting the first half of the kibble out is pretty easy but the second half is pretty tricky (aka getting the dog hooked and then upping the difficulty). The Jug is just awesome but it's loud as hell on wood floors and drives me nuts so I'll only give it to her when I'm about to leave the house.


I've also heard good things about Buster Cubes because they've got adjustable openings but I really need to stop buying stuff for my spoiled pup so I don't have one.

Have you looked at Patricia McConnell's "Cautious Canine"? http://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-How-Conquer-Their-Fears/dp/1891767003
It's not expensive and will give you some good insight on your fearful dog, as well as teaching you to help him overcome his fears in a positive manner.

My dog loves this: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Busy-Buddy-Barnacle-Large/dp/B008JCH2A2

I've heard good things about these two, and want to try them, but haven't gotten around to it yet:

http://www.amazon.com/Starmark-Treat-Dispensing-Pickle-Pocket/dp/B007K5CL9Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1381943161&sr=1-1&keywords=pickle+pocket

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Twist-Treat-Small/dp/B0002I0RLW/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1381943180&sr=1-9&keywords=treat+dispensing+dog+toys

The person behind the biggest changes in Dog training and uncovering the myths behind the old school of thought is Dr. Ian Dunbar. He really changed the entire landscape of training. This is the book I get new puppy owners: http://www.amazon.com/Before-After-Getting-Your-Puppy/dp/1577314557

Anything else by him will also rock I'm sure. I also recommend

http://www.amazon.com/Culture-Clash-Jean-Donaldson/dp/1617811122/ref=pd_sim_b_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=05B0YMSXJHAPV8HKYE03

This is the one I use, you can buy additional sections to fit a larger opening. This version is pressure mounted so no hardware to be installed in your walls. I’ve had it for about 2 years now and it’s still going strong.

The same brand also has one that can be mounted that is 76” wide.

These are my papillion's favorite toys:

Hide-a-Squirrel

Twist-n-Treat toy

Classic Kong toy

West Paw toys like this one

I also have a couple of the puzzle toys. I like to get ones that have several layers of difficulty so my dog doesn't get bored right away. Like this one, but I found it at HomeGoods for a lot cheaper!

We like:

Outward Hound Hide a Squirrel Fun Hide & Seek Interactive Puzzle Plush Dog Toy, 4 Piece, Junior/Large/Jumbo/Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002I0O60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbwGDb9J3V7KC

And the Trixie puzzle board games

If you want to untangle dog hair you need some of this called The Stuff. This stuff works WONDERS! At my job we sometimes have to groom dogs like Shih Tzu that really tangled. I sprayed some of this stuff my boss said to use and rubbed it into the coat. The brush started to just flow through!

This book will be extremely helpful and is only $5.45.

Ahhhhh I'm leaving on my weekend trip today and while I'm excited about my trip I'm so nervous to leave Baron for this long. I remember feeling even more nervous the first time I left for a week and had to leave my cat Castiel with my friends.

Not only am I just really attached to my animals, I've had some really horrible, awful, traumatizing experiences where some very bad things happened to previous pets (and Castiel) in my absence while I was engaged to my ex. I know those things won't happen again because that fucker is a couple states away now, and both Castiel and Baron are going to be watched by my animal loving parents who love both of them like grandchildren, but the trauma and anxiety is probably going to be in the back of my mind this weekend. My parents promised to let me facetime both of them as much as I wanted and will be sending me regular updates on them every day. I know they'll be ok. It's just stressful and the trauma is something to work through with my therapist.

I'll try to focus on being in the present moment on my trip, because I get to see my brother, sister in law, and niece for the first time in a long time. Plus they live right by the university I really, really want to end up at for grad school, and a very prominent professor there wants to meet with me this weekend. Also, this city has a very famous Belgian Waffle restaurant I haven't been to in years, plus a huge farmer's market.

On a less heavy, stressful note, Baron is becoming so much better at fetch! He loves it when I roll the ball really fast across the ground rather than throwing it throw the air. He's even bringing the ball somewhat back to me now. We just need to work on him not playing keep away with it when he gets close.

Also ordered 101 Dog Tricks yesterday and I'm so excited to have a dog trick book to guide me through Baron's trick titles.

ETA: Baron has also now discovered that it is possible to jump onto the top of my parent's spa. It's my fault. I wanted to see just how good his "up-up" was (his cue to jump on top of an object) by seeing if he'd jump onto an object that he can't see the top of. Well, turns out this dog trusts me enough to do that. He now jumps onto the spa whenever I pull out the treats and insists on doing all his tricks on top of the spa. I've created a monster. I don'r want him to hurt his joints jumping down from that so I'm going to have to carry him down.

http://www.amazon.com/Before-After-Getting-Your-Puppy/dp/1577314557 this is a great book, covers just about everything you need to know, gives lots of good ideas.

Here's a couple good books for ideas and instructions: book 1 and book 2

Better resource:

I'll Be Home Soon by Patricia McConnell

On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas

Anything by Dr. Stanley Coren

I bike with all my dogs and we have run across all sorts of stuff they want to chase and I have yet to have an issue. Here is the attachment I use. I also put my dogs on our treadmill. I think you need to go a bit slower. I took everything slowly and followed the advice here.

I use The Stuff detangling spray. It really helps. Bizarre word of warning though, don't spray it over a wood or tile floor. Any spray that doesn't land on your dog will land on the floor and make it very slippery! I only spray it over carpet or rugs.

I also use Kinky Curly Knot Today as a leave-in conditioner on problem areas like the arm pits. It's a product for humans but it works on dogs as well. I've also rubbed a bit of this into a mat and then combed it out.

I may be coming at this from a different angle, but I did NOT want my dog to pull. I thought it might teach her bad habits for on walks. So I got a dog biking apparatus with springs in it amd now she trots along perfectly!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYIAW4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Teaching him to settle on a mat may help. Here is a video that shows one approach. He directs the dog toward the mat, whereas I used the approach in the book Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out (definitely describes my dog) which involves letting the dog go to the mat at his own pace. It's helped my jumping, barking asshole be much less of an asshole when we have guests over. Doing some impulse control and focus work can also help because it will teach him to be calm when he wants something and to pay attention to you.

Some puzzles tend to be made of particle board and aren't very durable. Normal licking and pawing will start to make the particle board puzzles fall apart. This happened with my dog.

This is what I mean by particle board puzzles: http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-Seek---Treat-Shuffle-Puzzle/dp/B0038WP1YC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324588644&sr=8-1

It seems like that brand in particular uses the particle board type material. It would probably be fine for some dogs but my large lab mix licked and pawed and pieces fell off.

I use the Bob-a-Lot (linked above), the Tug-a-Jug and the Buster Cube.

They are all fairly loud, but keep him occupied for a while. I switch them out daily so he doesn't get bored with one.

this might give you some ideas

Check out Turid Rugaas's awesome book on dog body language. There is a brief discussion of what she talks about in the book here.

I've used a variety in the past and have recently switched to this one

Twist and Treat

I prefer these to kongs

You need to treat her accidents as your own fault because that's what they are. If she makes a mistake, it's because you have not been watching close enough etc. What you have done is most likely created negative feelings now associated with the bathroom which will only lead her to try and hide better or hold it longer. You need to take the time and read about dog behaviour and how to train properly and do like someone else suggested and start over like a puppy. I would suggest this book:

https://www.amazon.ca/Before-After-Getting-Your-Puppy/dp/1577314557

This book really helped me out. Almost two years ago, I got my first dog ever - a 9 week old Border Collie. Anyway, among other books (breed-specific, etc.), this one REALLY helped me with teaching tricks and commands:

http://www.amazon.com/101-Dog-Tricks-Activities-Challenge/dp/1592533256/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396983327&sr=8-1&keywords=101+dog+tricks

He's a baby - the crying is normal, the first week or 2 you can expect crying as he gets used to the crate. It took my girl about a week before she stopped crying in it. I also bought a sound machine off Amazon for cheap that I put on loud so she doesn't hear noises and get distracted and cry.

The toy was not the cheapest, but it works great. Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pet-Love-Snuggle-Behavioral/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526918487&sr=8-3&keywords=puppy+toy+heart

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4

My girlfriend bought this for our dog, and it has greatly reduced his pulling. He almost never pulls now, and when he does it is very light. We've never had a problem with it coming loose or him slipping out of it.

I got a stuffed toy with a heartbeat:
https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS

She just snuggles with it when we go to sleep... Well until the time she destroyed it! But at that point she didn't really have the separation anxiety anymore.

If you can't get it or its too expensive you can DIY with a stuffed toy and an old times alarm clock... Just any watch or clock with a strong tick.
Never used the heatpack though

First off is to remove temptation as much as you can. The more they can practice the behaviour the harder it is to get them to stop. This is especially true with self rewarding behaviour like snacking out of the forbidden cookie jar. In this case keeping it out of reach will be faster and more reliable then training them to keep out of a room.

• Block off the room the litterbox is in with a gate, something like this is nice if your dog can't fit thru the cat flap.
  
• Place the litter box on an elevated surface your dog can't reach but the cat can.
  
• You could also try using a hidden litter box that will move the litter box out of reach of your dog. Though some cats dislike them.