(Part 3) Best products from r/dogs

Dogs have different motivators - so a trainer who ONLY allows you to use ONE source of motivation is not a very good one in my book. Treats are a REALLY common motivator and will work with most dogs. Toys, praise, and life rewards (such as getting to sit on the couch, go outside, or sniff something) are other examples.

A GOOD positive reinforcement trainer, in my opinion, will teach you how to leverage ALL of these rewards to motivate your dog and fine tune YOUR routine to work best for your dog. For example, our corgi LOVES treats, but after a certain point he stops being super motivated by them. During training we alternate rewards between playing, life rewards , praise and treats all in the SAME session! So he is not sure what to expect but wants to keep playing 'the game' because something good WILL happen.

If this trainer isn't working out for you - go else where. Your dog sounds like he isnt really motivated anymore because he is to receiving any reinforcing feedback.

Some people are very against treats because they feel you will be 'treat dependent'. The trick is moderation and reducing the amount of treat rewards as your dog becomes more confident with a skill. If you reward responsibly, it should not be an issue!

If you choose to at least finish the class, I would say to keep using things that are reinforcing to your dog (treats, play, life rewards, praise) at home and play more by the rules at training. That is not to say their LESSONS are invaluable, but your dog simply does not find praise reinforcing enough to continue working with that as his ONLY reward (this is the case for many dogs).

Find a different training club that uses positive reinforcement but is flexible on rewards. Additionally, these are some good books I would encourage you to pickup and read to gain some more insight on training (it will help you in your own training goals AND help you have a good idea of what to look for in a trainer/training club):

• Dont Shoot the Dog
  
  
• Culture Clash
  
  
• The Power of Positive DogTraining
  
  
  Bonus - no matter what you do, training sessions should be short and sweet. Try to limit focused sessions to 3-5 minutes for known skills or ones you are fine tuning and 5-10 minutes for brand new skills and proofing - practice 3 to 5 times a day! Try to integrate training into life as MUCH as you can (using a bit of the "Nothing in Life is Free" mentality) - ask for a sit and wait before giving food. Require your dog to be in a sit before you pay attention to them when you come home. No free treats - your dog has to do something for every treat they get. Ask your dog to bring you a toy to play with, etc. You expect your dog to be obedience all the time under a variety of conditions, so blend their training into your routine! Not only will they get a ton of practice, but completing the actions will lead to natural rewards (remember 'life rewards'?) and after you get into the groove you will find yourself relying on treats much less.
  
  Also consider clicker training.

So it sounds like your dog might be barrier reactive or leash reactive. This is a pretty common thing - dogs get super worried if they feel like they're not free to move, but are perfectly fine off leash.

I also want to introduce you to the concept of "trigger stacking" - it's a concept I'm sure you're familiar with in your life all the time! Let's say you're late for work so you're stressed. And then once you get to work, you go to the bathroom and there's no toilet paper. And then Janice accuses you of not doing your job, and by the time you get to the end of the day, one of your nice coworkers comes by with an innocent question and you chew them out.

Trigger stacking - basically, when you get stressed, and another stressful thing happens on top of that, you act way more strongly, and continue to be super, super stressed.

I think this might be happening with your pup.

Here are a few things I might try. Note: not a professional

• First try and make the apartment as stress-free as possible. Try to drown out outside noises with things like running the radio and running a box-fan. The idea for this is to keep the stress levels for her as much as possible. This may not at all be a factor, but given that you said this happened after you moved into an apartment, it's worth a try.
  
• Try a 2-week shutdown. This is generally done for new rescue dogs but I think it could be beneficial for your dog as well. (this helps reduce the trigger stacking) As for potty, try as hard as you can to find a place where you won't have to deal with other dogs.
  
• To deal with the two week shutdown, play a lot of mind games. So train a new trick! Give or make puzzle toys (you can make puzzle toys out of a lot of things! Make sure you start easy and work your way up if your dog isn't used to them. My pup has a really long history of puzzle toys before she could kinda manage this), hide treats around the apartment and have her sniff them out (I LOVE nosework - it's fantastic for reactive dogs). Frozen kongs are another great option.
  
• When you're done with the shutdown, no more walks in the neighborhood if possible. Instead, try and find a big open field and get yourself a long-line (I find 20-30 ft to be manageable) and harness (never attach a long-line to a collar - very dangerous). I say go to a large field so that you can see when/if other dogs are approaching and you can avoid them. But on this walk, just let her do her thing. Follow her around and let her lead you. Hopefully the long-line gives her freedom, but also has the bonus of making her hopefully feel less restricted, so that leash frustration doesn't come over. Do this for like, an 1-2 hours if possible. These are referred to as "decompression walks" and are great for just letting a dog be a dog. If you do see a dog coming, or a person, then you should manage the situation by getting her to go the other way. This plus some ball play and occasional trips to the dog park should be enough physical exercise for most dogs. (Not all - but most!)
  
• Keep up the mental stimulation!
  
• Consider training your dog to relax. It sounds like she gets a LOT of stimulation. It's actually really healthy for a dog to learn to relax. Trust me, I know it's really hard! I highly suggest checking out the book "Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out" - you can get it as an e-book for $6. This helped me a lot with learning how to train my dog to relax.
  
• Work on counter-conditioning other people and dogs. At this point, I think it would be really good to try and work with a trainer if you can. But my general advice would be to look up BAT training and to always start from a much larger distance than you think is necessary.
  
• You might want to look into this class from fenzi dog sports academy. Fenzi is an online dog training school where you can do a few different levels of participation. The auditing level is $65, and generally well worth it.
  The class doesn't start until August 1st, but I've heard really good things!
  
  Hopefully that gives you a few ideas on what to try - I think you need to start from a "lets get her calmed down" before you can really work on walks.

Almost all dogs should start training as puppies with food rewards. That's what puppies want. After say five months old, many dogs will start responding as well or better to tug toy or ball rewards, and a few will start responding best to praise. Also, it depends on the situation. Many dogs respond better to food when there are no distractions but respond better to toys when there are distractions.

Whether praise can effectively motivate a particular dog probably depends more on genetics than anything else. But for the dog to respond strongly to praise, you need to establish a good leadership relationship. You have to prove to your dog over time that you are a stable, predictable and fair leader.

You can also build your dog's response to praise by incorporating praise while he's still in the puppy food-reward stage. Reward your puppy like this: first praise, then pat or stroke, then give a treat. Do all that within one or two seconds in that order. There are also a lot of other reasons why you should reward your dog that way.

After a dog that's motivated by praise, probably the next best is a dog that's motivated by ball rewards. You can carry a ball around in your pocket much more conveniently than food treats or a tug toy. This US Military Working Dogs Training Manual explains the technique well. It also explains a ton of other fundamental concepts and techniques really well, but as you can probably imagine, it is not for the rewards only fans.

I've posted this before, and it's a great list! Originally posted by u/manatee1010 and I have tried several:

I keep this list of brain toy links handy to send to friends who get dogs. It's getting pretty long...

Toys that get stuffed with food and frozen:

• Kong Classic (15-20 minutes) (it sounds like Watson is lukewarm toward this… have you tried mixing a spoonful of canned food in with some kibble and freezing it?
  
  
• Zogoflex Toppl Interactive Treat Dispensing Dog Toy (this can be a stand-alone toy, or if you get a big one and little one they can fit together and dispense kibble) (15-20 minutes)
  
  
• Starmark Pickle Pocket (my big dog really likes this one… we put cheese in it) (20-25 minutes)
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, hard material (good for carpeted areas)
  
  
• Bob-A-Lot (~10 minutes… this one can be adjusted to make it harder)
  
  
• Tug-A-Jug (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Magic Mushroom (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Kong Wobbler (~5-10 minutes)
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball (~10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Pet Zone IQ Ball (this is the ONLY toy my dogs can’t get all the kibble out of. They’ll usually persist for half an hour or so before they give up)
  
  
• Buster Cube (I think this has several difficulty settings… my guys now don’t have one of these, but my dog when I was growing up had one. I’d guess this is probably a 20-30 minute toy depending on difficulty and what you load into it)
  
  
• Treatstik – I have NO idea how long this one takes to load, but it’s on my to-purchase list because it seems like it’s one of the longer lasting toys on the market. If anyone has/gets one, I’m super interested to hear about it!
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, soft material (good for hardwood/tile/laminate)
  
  
• Barnacle (this can be stuffed like a Kong as well… I lost this one when I moved but I think in terms of kibble dispensing it was shorter lasting, maybe 5-10 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treater (I REALLY like this one; super easy to load and clean, lasts 10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treat Ball (another super easy one… <5 minutes)
  
  
• Planet Dog Orbee-Tuff Snoop Treat Dispensing Dog Toy – this one just arrived yesterday so I don’t have a solid rating of its durability yet, but so far it seems great… easy to load, takes the dogs awhile to empty, and super duper quiet.
  
  
• JW Pet Company Treat Puzzler Dog Toy (this one is super easy for them to empty… I’d say 3-5 minutes)
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy (this one is okay, not my favorite… I didn’t like that I had to make a decision about cutting it immediately after opening. It takes ~5-10 minutes to unload)
  
  
• Starmark Treat Dispensing Puzzle Ball - this one is new! I almost bought it the other day but haven't yet; I think it's most similar to a Buster Cube in terms of adjustable difficulty, it's just a softer material.
  
  Time-release kibble dispensing toys (good for work days)
  
  
• the Foobler is great because it works on a timer that rotates to the next of six, ¼ cup food hoppers at set intervals of time (you pick, the options are 15-30-60-90 minutes), which makes it last way longer than most of these toys. This is hard plastic.
  
  
• CleverPet – this has a December release date. I’m way pumped about it and have been in touch with the company… hopefully I’ll be getting one of the first models off the line!
  
  Lastly, there are also these two that I haven’t tried yet, so I’m not positive how to classify…
  
  
• Starmark Crunching Barbell
  
  
• Starmark Treat Crunching Multiball
  
  
  ETA: If you have any others you like (or don't like) that I've left off this list, please chime in!

Food:

• Orijen. We rotate around between foods, but always come back to this one. Great coats, no dental problems, consistent energy levels, good digestion, all around good.
  
• Durapet steel non-skid dishes. Nice solid steel construction, and the rubber ring stays put even with frequent washing.
  
• Fish oil! Right now we use Kirkland brand capsules from Costco, which the dogs gobble up like candy.
  
  Leashes/collars/harnesses:
  
  
• "WMC" leather leashes. 3/4" 4ft long, perfect weight and length for everyday training walks. I have no idea what this brand is but it's the best leash I've ever owned. Stamped with "WMC" which I assume is an identifying mark of some sort.
  
• brass id plates from gun dog supply. They last forever and work great.
  
• Not a commercial product, but, a ponytail tie around tags to silence them.
  
• Perfect Fit fleece lined harness for dogs with thin fur. The most comfortable option I've found.
  
• Sense-ible harness. A simple, classic front-clip harness. No frills, does the job without unnecessary cost or weird features.
  
  Grooming:
  
  
• Miller's Forge nail clippers. Simple, cheap, sharp, better than the expensive alternatives.
  
• Earthbath grooming wipes have been a godsend for my allergy dog. Wiping him down every day drastically reduces his seasonal allergy symptoms.
  
• Epi-Soothe shampoo for itchy skin.
  
• Rubber brush for short coats. No particular brand--brands have evolved over the years. Zoom Groom is popular now, but anything made of flexible grippy rubber with fingers/nubs will work.
  
• Burt's Bees shampoo has been a pleasant surprise. No strong perfume, and leaves coats soft without drying them out.
  
• CET toothpaste. The poultry flavor is a big hit--way better than some other brands.
  
  Beds:
  
  
• Kuranda beds. No stuffing to trap allergens, tall enough to let the roomba underneath, and sturdy as all hell. Throw a washable blanket on top for snuggling and it's the perfect dog bed. Seriously, if you take nothing else away from this, just remember Kuranda.
  
• ruff wear roll up mats. Mine are way older and don't look like the product pictured there, but hopefully the new ones are similar. Waterproof no-slip rubber backing, fleece top that lasts through serious abuse (read: digging), and a thin padded layer that doesn't bunch. Perfect for camping, mat training, training classes, any and all travel.
  
• Berkley & Jensen brand dog beds/throws. The ones I got were like thick blankets, canvas on one side and fleece on the other side with a thin layer of padding in the middle. They're amazing. Folded in half it's a crate mat. Folded twice it's a dog bed. Spread out it's a floor protector while feeding gross bones. Spread out it's also a car seat protector.
  
  
  Toys
  
  
• Orvis leather toys. They appear not to be sold currently, but I have a leather retrieving dummy that was perfect for intro retrieve training with a dog who was utterly disinterested in toys. The soft leather enticed him to pick it up, which was all the help I needed at the time.
  
• JW treat ball. Large opening, so perfect for chunks of biscuit or jerky. Large pieces of treats can be squeezed through the flexible opening for a challenging game. Soft rubber bounces quietly, does not clang around on hard floors or against hard furniture like buster cube or kong wobbler.
  
• Classic Kongs. I take this one for granted, but really useful toy. Stuff it with food before you leave for work and your dog has something productive to focus on for a little while at least.
  
• Goughnuts. Virtually indestructible rubber chew toys.
  
  Training goodies
  
  
• Starmark clicker. Loud click. raised button gives you more options than a typical box clicker.
  
• iClick clicker. Very quiet click. Also with a raised button for versatility.
  
• Terry Ryan treat bag. Again, mine is really old so I hope the new one is similarly good. The hinges pop open/shut with no trouble, way more convenient than a drawstring. Mine has been used and washed regularly for 6+ years without harming it.
  

Join us over in /r/reactivedogs - we have wine, and can mop up frustration tears with chocolate and other food coping mechanisms.

In all seriousness, it's a really slow process. Tesla (also GSD rescue) and I have been working on it for 3 years. We can FINALLY work around other dogs with a lot of management on my behalf. In my opinion, excitement/frustration reactivity where the dog WANTS to play with the other dog (as opposed to fear/aggression where the dog wants to be away from the other dog) is the worst to deal with.

With regard to what I've done to get us to this point:

• Lots of personal play. I also had to teach Tesla how to play! Now we have an awesome tug game. Denise Fenzi runs a relationship building through play course that is awesome and Shade Whitsel runs a play course with tugs and balls. Both are available through Fenzi Dog Academy. Both are really good courses. Make sure you 'proof' your play. For example, Tesla will play all day inside, but we're still working on transitioning that off our property, because she goes into 'shepherd' mode and gets hyper-vigilant.
  
• Mat Work. Seriously one of the best investments of my time. This builds value for a mat. Once you've built that 'value' you can start taking it on the road. I combine this with working at whatever distance is under threshold for her at a dog park (so we'll sit like 500m+ away - the dog should be interested but not yet to the point where they are ignoring you).
  
• Look At That. Again, managed with distance. This is where we teach the dog to look at the dog without reacting. I strongly advise moving through this exercise quickly. So mark/reward for looking - feed with the dog facing AWAY from the other dog. Your dog should start picking up that looking at the dog and looking to you gets a reward, so start marking the look away (even if it's not at you), and then build duration. What we don't want is the back and force head game where the dog just snaps back and forth between you and the other dog.
  
• Look and Dismiss. Again, distance (greeeaattt theme here). Work at a distance where your dog can look and dismiss the other dog. When your dog does that dismissal, ask your dog to engage in play (this links back to the first point). Don't force it, but don't close the distance until your dog is comfortable enough to 'play', even if 'play' is just getting belly rubs. 'Play' is one of the first things that fly out the window when a dog gets triggered, so it's a super nice judge of how aroused or triggered your dog is and whether it's safe to move forward.
  
• Get a firm grip of your dog's body language. You want to be able to interrupt the behavior BEFORE the dog is too far gone. For Tesla, that means when I start to see 'stillness', I instantly u-turn, and mark and reward when she follows me. Every dog is different, but I know - ears up and forward, laying down and staring, or just stopping with a high tail, etc means we're about to start down a bad road and I need to get out of dodge.
  
• Practice emergency exits and carry super duper high value treats. Emergency exits are where you shove an extremely high value food in front of the dog's nose and lure the dog off into safety.
  
• Whenever you change the criteria you need to reset to zero. For instance, let's say I can get my dog to a point where another dog is just walking and ignoring us and Tesla can happily look and dismiss the other dog. If I change my criteria to the other dog jogging, I need to reset to zero (so increase my distance) and start again. Also remember, different dogs can be different levels of trigger. Tesla isn't as leash reactive with small dogs. But bigger, fluffier dogs are like an instant "let me play" and be an asshole on a leash.
  
• Try not to let him practice the behavior. I'm super lucky now, I moved into a house, but I did 2 years in apartment complexes and I know it sucks, but walking at odd hours really helped us. We got to train the 'environment' alone without the added risks of dogs. Remember that when your dog goes over threshold, it releases a shit tonne of hormones, those hormones can take DAYS to come back down to zero, so try not to let it happen too often (I know, I know, apartment living sucks for this, I'm sorry).
  
• Try to find a reactive rover class or a trainer that understands and will let you work. I STILL take good manners classes because I have an excellent trainer who lets me work off to the side while exposing Tesla to new dogs. It's a controlled environment, I have visual barriers if I need it and honestly it's been the thing that probably helped us the most.
  
• Try not to pre-empt a reaction. Try not to tighten the grip or have a reaction of your own. It can feed the dog.
  
• Feisty Fido is a good book. So is Fired Up, Frantic and Freaked Out.
  
  Good luck. :)

ACDs are quite the toy destroyers aren't they? Although my guy isn't quite as esteemed in the destruction field as an ACD, he is pretty bad. Here's what has survived him:

• Kong Sqrunch
  
• Ethical Skinneeez Big Bite Coyote Stuffingless Dog Toy (I really like this one because you can replace the water bottle inside. The only issue I have with it is that it can get kind of grimey)
  
• KONG Wobbler Treat Dispensing Dog Toy (good if he likes puzzles)
  
• KONG Extreme Dog Toy, Black
  
• Invincibles Snake Stuffingless Durable Tough Plush Dog Squeaky Toy with Squeakers by Outward Hound
  
• Jolly Pets Push-n-Play 14-Inch (might be really fun for him as it taps in to some herding dog's natural herding instinct)
  
• Benebone Real Flavor Wishbone Chew Toy, Made in USA (I'd be careful with these and supervision only at first. If your dog's chewing style is too aggressive, he can end up bleeding. I wouldn't dismiss it until you try it though. My boy is pretty aggressive, but works for him.)
  
• West Paw Zogoflex Hurley Durable Dog Bone Chew Toy for Aggressive Chewers, 100% Guaranteed Tough, It Floats!, Made in USA, for Strong Chewers (this one is awesome. Aside from some dirt, it looks exactly like the day I bought it to this day.
  
• goDog Dragons Flats Plush Dog Toy with Chew Guard Technology (My guy really likes plush toys and squeakers. He doesn't normally get them because he likes ripping them out and it's not the safest. This is the best one that I've found so far that will put up the biggest fight.)
  
• Goughnuts - Original Dog Chew Ring (a lot of people really like this, but unfortunately, Atlas doesn't seem to like the shape too much.)
  
• MultiPet Goblets Pig latex Dog toy Assorted Colors (lmfao my dog fucking loves this pig. The squeaker doesn't last, but the pig's outer shell does. He loves it a lot.)
  
• JW Pet Company Mini Hol-ee Roller Dog Toy, Colors Vary (They've also got an extreme edition here)
  
• MuttNation Fueled by Miranda Lambert Faux Suede Dog Toy (his face has come off, and his tail is frayed, but it is still chewable and he enjoys playing with it)
  
• KONG Cozies Dog Squeaky Toy (Also a really great option if you want to treat him to a plush toy. It will last longer than most others. Mine ripped off the ear when he first got it, but the rest lasted quite a while.)
  
• Outward Hound Hide-A-Squirrel and Puzzle Plush Squeaking Toys for Dogs (He loved this toy so much. He loves puzzles, but he destroyed the log fairly quickly. Surprisingly, he has had one of the squirrels for over a year ... and it still squeaks. I lost the rest of them, but that one little squirrel is still going strong.)
  
• Mammoth TireBiter Chew Toy with Rope (don't get this unless you don't mind bits of tire coming off)
  
• OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy (great if your dog eats kibble and likes puzzles)
  
• Nylabone Dental Dino Power Chew DuraChew Dental Chew Toy (Like the benebone, watch him with this one at first. It's really hard and you don't want him to hurt himself. Eventually wears down, but takes a damn long time)
  
• We also do rope toys, antlers, bully sticks (special occasion- they last like 5 minutes), raw bones (we feed raw), Himalayan Yak Chews, and Flirt Pole.
  
  Reading my list, god damn my dog is spoiled. Keep in mind, these are just the toys that have made it. I'm not even counting the ones he's destroyed!
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!
  
  Lastly, I don't own a husky, but man do I respect the destruction a husky can wreck. I would recommend going to a husky group on facebook or a subreddit to see what toys they would recommend. If it's husky approved... it should last.
  
  
  

So if /u/CiElBie is right, that would explain a lot about your dog's behavior, haha.

Have you tried a front-connecting harness, like the Easywalk, Sense-ible, or Kurgo Journey harnesses? Those have proven extremely helpful in redirecting our dog on walks and teaching him not to tug.

You can also get him some puzzle toys. You put treats in them and they keep your dog occupied. Treats can be peanut butter, yogurt, wet food, and frozen fruit/veggies. These would be my recommendations: Westpaw Tux, Busy Buddy Squirrel, Planet Dog Orbee-tuff Snoop, Kong Wobbler (dry food only), Starmark Everlasting Wheeler, Orbee-tuff Produce, GoofBall.

Mental stimulation is another big thing. If you haven't already, familiarize yourself with the basics of clicker training (Kikopup is a fantastic resource). Then you can teach all kinds of fun tricks, which will engage your dog, encourage bonding, and tire him out mentally, which is very important for dogs with working dog ancestry. Examples of tricks can be paw, beg, roll over, twirl (dance), touch, jump (if his health allows it - no more than 10 minutes of jumping training at a time), weave (dog weaves between your legs), army crawl, bow, and so on. Just 15 to 20 minutes of mental stimulation can really tire out a dog, so I strongly recommend this if your dog is super hyper!

Other interactive toys. Flirt poles are great, and can be good for reinforcing drop it because the dog is rewarded immediately with more playtime. I would also encourage giving all meals either as training treats or in large puzzle toys (I highly recommend Nina Ottosson toys: Tornado, Dog Smart, Twister, Casino, Brick. Make sure to supervise your dog while using these toys, since they won't be as durable as the rubber toys I recommended above). My dog also LOVES this funny squirrel toy; it moves around and makes funny noises-- I think he believes it's a real squirrel! This is the Amazon link, and again for this I'd recommend supervision because I don't know it's that durable.

I might also recommend extending one of your walks to 1.5 to 2 hrs by combining two of the daily walks together into one long walk-- this might exhaust your dog more, as opposed to multiple shorter walks a day. This really depends on your dog, though; give it a try but I can't guarantee it'll work. Do ensure that the long walk takes place at approximately the same time each day, so he knows when his "big playtime" is and learns to relax throughout the rest of the day. For the whining at outside stimuli, perhaps invest in a white noise machine or loud box fan, which will help your dog relax at home.

Best of luck, hope this is helpful!!

How much physical and mental exercise is he getting daily right now (in hours)?

It sounds like he's food motivated! An easy way to introduce some mental stimulation is to get some treat dispensing puzzles and feed him his meals in those! If he's never done them before I would get a few and start him off on an easy one first. This one is a great one to get started with and this one has a piece in the middle you can take out or put in for more difficulty. Other than that, just two 5-10 minute sessions of trick or obedience training daily can make a big difference. There's lots of great guides on youtube for that. Taking a fun training or sports class together is also a great way to tire out his brain and body and a wonderful way to bond and become closer.

As far as off leash back yard play time, I always like to recommend a flirt pole. They are super easy to make yourself or you can order off Amazon. I've got a BC/Cattle Dog mix and we like to alternate flirt pole, fetch, tug/keep away/chase, and blowing bubbles!

But honestly if he's getting a lot of exercise and fairly chill, not destructive or having other behavior issues he might just be fine. Not all dogs like to snuggle or be right up in your face all the time.

This is my advice from training lots of dogs and volunteering many years at the humane society (I am not a professional) - "don't work harder, work smarter." You are trying way too hard and you are burning yourself out. That does not bode well for you or your dog.

He is hyperactive and needs to get his energy out, but that said, no dog needs 4-5 hours of activity a day. That is just crazy. Instead of running or walking (save your knees, you need them!) with him, train him to do urban mushing. Since you says he pulls a lot, it would be dangerous for you to get a regular bike so I would recommend getting a cart.

Next, buy him a weighted pack. Throw this on him (and feel free to put your water bottles and snacks in there) while you are walking or for a couple of hours a day and it will slow him down and tire him out. It also makes him feel like he has a job to do. Since you think he may be a blue lacey, you really need to give him a job to do since he is a working dog. That also explains why he doesn't like doing tricks but likes finding stuff for you.

A couple of activities that are great for a working dog are agility and nose work. Sign up for your local agility and nose work class and the people there will give you great tips on how to tire your dog out without burning yourself out since they are actually experienced with training with working dogs. These kinds of jobs also train him to listen to your commands in a home setting.

Your dog is not a extremely dominant or submissive, he is what working dog trainers call a "soft" dog. This means they are very sensitive to loud, verbal yelling or negative energy. It is hard to see them react when you overcorrect but this also means that they are very trainable since they want to please you. Use a calm and low voice when you correct your dog.

For working from home, you have to learn to ignore him. I know it is heartbreaking to hear his whining but the truth of it is, if you give a dog an inch, they will take a mile. He knows how to push your buttons and he will so you have to harden yourself up not give in. Instead, get him a bunch of interactive toys
like this 1, [2] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Mad-Scientist-Dogs-Level/dp/B003TOKTEG/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-11&keywords=interactive+dog+toys), [3.] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Gambling-Tower-Level-1/dp/B002XCTUIQ/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-38&keywords=interactive+dog+toys) Fill them with his favorite treats and let him learn to amuse himself.

Lastly, this is probably the most important advice I have - get a gentle leader. It jerks their head to the side if they pull, so they stop pulling. It works amazingly for dogs who like to pull on their leash and do not respond to training. It seriously is a godsend for many of the dogs I walked in the shelter and could not control. It will save you many a more broken bones.

Feel free to message me if you need more help. I love helping people who love their dogs enough to not give up on them.

You sound well-prepared! Going with a rescue group you know and trust is a great idea.

• I would second the suggestion to think about getting a dog-walker midday. 9 hours is really pushing it - especially if you get a smaller dog (with a therefore smaller bladder). If you do that, your schedule will be fine for low-medium-energy dogs.
  
• Yes, with mixed-breed dogs, visual ID is highly unreliable. The advantage of getting an adult dog is that their personalities and temperaments are pretty much set, so knowing the breed background really isn't as important as it would be for predicting the future temperament of a puppy. With a rescue group, they have their dogs in foster for a while (the rescue where I adopted mine had a 2-week minimum before the dogs were available, so they could evaluate them), so they should be able to tell you about their good and bad qualities, habits, likes and dislikes, etc. The descriptions in the ads are just a starting place - once you make contact, you should have more extensive conversation about the dog with the foster.
  
• Yes, once you've gone through talking about a dog and everything sounds good, do a meet-and-greet. Try really hard not to go to it already committed - do your best to be objective in evaluating the dog, and do not feel pressured to say yes and take the dog home right then if you're unsure.
  
• As for guidance about adopting an adult, I recommend Patricia McConnell's Love Has No Age Limit. She is a trainer and a PhD in animal behavior, and her books are excellent. This one is a nice booklet under 100 pages. Dogs are very adaptable, and can be trained and bonded with their owners at any age.
  
  Good luck!

KONG works wonders for me. Half-freeze it and boom! Endless puppy satisfaction. It's really strong and you can put treats in it entice your pup. As fuckmylife112 says, rotate your toys so that your pup won't get bored. I also use those rope toys (tug-of-war toys) because they're also pretty strong. Do note that you need to reward good behavior and use a stern but warm voice when correcting your pup like yelping when he bites you.

If toys don't work, you can use an anti-biting spray. Spray it on the things you don't want get chewed on and once your pup tastes the bad flavor, they are less likely to bite again.

KONG:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR182/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=dogmomdaily-20&linkId=a5015a0e131bf582d18ad2d7e1f3f95e&linkCode=w61&imprToken=HNayx181fUWwMY3FikiDyg&slotNum=0

ANTI-TEETHING SPRAY (FOOEY-what i use)https://www.amazon.com/SynergyLabs-Fooey-Ultra-Bitter-Spray/dp/B0002DIOD0/?tag=petresults-20

ANTI-TEETHING SPRAY (Bodhi dog)https://www.amazon.com/Chewing-Puppies-Training-Treatment-Professional/dp/B01I2A6MPG/?tag=petresults-20

There's this so called indestructible chew toy (with a guarantee, never used it but many people are worshiping it lol) if your pup is a death machinehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042JJB82/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0042JJB82&linkCode=as2&tag=territerri-20&linkId=R63I4QQQKB7BCLBS


EDIT: If you can't have these things delivered, you can buy those rope toys from the pet store or a supermarket in the pet sections. They're pretty good if you buy those tight and thick ones. Squeaky toys are really good too. Wipe some peanut butter on them if your pup doesn't seem interested and reward good behavior.


I also found ice cubes or iced toys really good too. The coldness soothes the gums and helps your pup.
You can get rawhide (get the big ones) but you need to supervise your pup when does chew on it because there are certain cons this https://www.dogingtonpost.com/rawhide-good-bad-ugly/


Good luck!

• I have this Crate and this seems like it would be a good size. Don't get it any bigger than you have to or the dog is more likely to pee/poop in one corner and sleep in the other.
  
  
• If she's smelly and seems scared of a bath, some pet wipes will hold you over until she seems more chill
  
  Toys:
  
  
• Get a Kong, fill with cooked sweet potato, peanut butter, plain yogurt with a little kibble mixed in, etc, then freeze till solid, and give to your dog for a treat that stimulates them mentally, keeps them busy, and helps with separation anxiety.
  
  
• Hide-a-Squirrel. An interactive toy- you stuff the log with squirrels and any other toys you have and let your dog have a blast tearing them out
  
  
• Treat dispensing toy you can use to actually feed your dog her meals if she eats too fast. I like this one because you can change the difficulty by making the hole openings smaller or larger
  
  
• Lastly if you have no idea what kind of toys she likes and are striking out (and have a little extra dough lying around and want to treat yo-self), you might want to try ordering BarkBox (you can almost always get a free month when signing up so google coupon codes before ordering). I did it for about a year and a half and was always blown away by the quality and the amazing way they curate each box to fit a theme. The toys were always adorable!
  
  I didn't know about the 2 Week Shutdown when I got my dog and while things turned out okay in the end, I definitely think it would have been VERY beneficial to do it. So best of luck and please update us with pics when she gets home!

I have had the same issue. I adopted a Australian Shepherd who lived most of his life in shelters. It is so sad that he can't play yet. When I fist got Timber he couldn't even enjoy being touched. It's been a long road. I can recommend two things whole-heartedly:

1. A Snuffle Mat! You hide food in it and it takes him a while to find them and we do make it like a game and it reinforces his beagling skills https://www.amazon.com/Wooly-Snuffle-Mat-Encourages-Foraging/dp/B01N1FV55I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=38K8RUHNRBC2V&keywords=snuffle+mat+for+dogs&qid=1562695856&s=gateway&sprefix=snuffle+%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-3
   
2. This toy it is awesome and my dog loves it and he can play with it alone or with me - kind of play soccer with it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054C9B1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   I'm also playing a game - that I hope doesn't make me sound like a slob - my house is clean - I promise. But I get small treats that he really loves (cut up franks or cheese cubes) and I throw them in the house and he egg him on to run and chase them - he loves it - and I'm hoping to parlay this into fetch with a ball/frisbee. It takes a while but so rewarding to see them make little strides in 'dogging'. Good luck - please share a photo of your pup!
   
   ​
   
   ETA: I'd also love to hear other advice/strategies!

Love Has No Age Limit-Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home

Best $10 you can spend.

I love her books, and am always amazed to realize how little I do know.

My 10 year old Male Golden Retriever was getting into "fights" with the 3 year old Female Golden Retriever who is new to us, but has had a lot of Service Dog training. Irony is the new dog is a very passive Service Dog, and ignores almost everything. Everything was great for three weeks, but once the New Dog felt "at home" things slightly changed.

Older GR gets stressed during storms and likes hiding behind pillows on the couch. Younger Golden decided that was a pretty nice spot to hang out and chill, too. First storm... seemed like all hell broke loose. Lots of snapping at each other, thankfully no puncture wounds (that is more by accident).

Never pull a dog back by its collar, way too easy for a dog to whip it's head around and bite. If they have family jewels, grabbing firmly and yanking gets their attention. If Neutered/female... grab the base of their tail. Gets their attention and enough time to stop by the time they whip around they realize "oh, it's you". /u/beavizsla has an excellent point. You really don't "yank" but lightly grab to get them to stop what they are doing! In the heat of the moment, way too easy to pull to hard and cause damage.

Once it was pretty clear the "resource guarding" was both dogs wanting my attention, simple to let the older one keep his routine and the new comer to sit on the floor next to me. SD has two lives, one with a vest "I'm working, do not disturb" other is at home, no vest... time to be a silly dog. :)

Both are happy and doing great.

tl;dr: Get that damn book from Amazon and read it!

First time seeing Fakespot, but you’re comparing Embark’s Breed & Health test to Wisdom Panel’s Breed test— when you look at the Fakespot score for the WP B&H, it gets a C with only a few reviews.

I also checked ReviewMeta to get a better idea of why the sites think Embark’s reviews are fake and, based on just that, I think the rating is unfair. The unverified purchases can be explained by Embark having lots of sales through their website or people receiving it as a gift; there is only 1 review they flagged as being incentivized out of 590, and it gave the product a 1.0; the “reviewer ease” score just means people who reviewed the product rate stuff 0.1 points higher than people who didn’t which, though it says that’s unnatural, I’m willing to overlook. The only one that stands out to me is “reviewer participation”— most reviewers have posted less than 15 total reviews on Amazon— but even that, I can overlook. If the product is overwhelmingly impressive, people are more likely to rate it. I think people also just like sharing their results; I plan to write a review once I get my dog’s back even though I rarely write reviews.

What makes me think that Embark’s reviews are genuine are the word count comparison and phrase repetition scores. Fake reviews tend to be short and repetitive, and Embark’s are anything but. The only things that tripped the review sites’ detectors were that the reviews were overwhelmingly positive and 35% from unverified purchasers, which both could just mean that people liked the product and were excited to share their results regardless of where they purchased it.

I actually barely looked at Amazon when deciding between Embark and Wisdom Panel. There are a bunch of articles out there comparing the two and nearly all of them say Embark seems more accurate or gives more detail, has a better user interface, and has better customer service.

I know I'm a bit late to the party but IMO, and this is after almost 20 years of grooming, the best thing to prevent shedding around the house is a good, metal comb. I just bought 5 of these to add to the three we already have at our grooming shop. With exchange, duty, and brokerage it cost an effing fortune, but totally worth it. The difference between these combs and regular $10 combs is night and day.

Our de-shedding process for a dog like yours would be a full comb-out, followed by some furmination, and then a good curry combing with a rubber horse brush like this. The comb and furminator will get out all the loose undercoat, and the rubber curry comb will pull out most of the loose top coat. IDK of any better procedure, or products that can improve upon this de-shedding method.

Lots of people talk about de-shedding baths, using a high velocity dryer, anti-shedding supplements, and WHY, but IMO and experience none of that stuff works better than a good metal comb, furminator and curry comb used together in that order.

Dogs are not good surprise gifts. If you're going to adopt a dog for the whole family, bring the whole family to meet it and bring the whole family to train it. One thing they don't talk about much in books is finding a dog that genuinely likes people and other dogs and finding a dog for first timers. Make sure you spend a good half hour with the dog and ask tons of questions about the dog's temperament from someone more experienced - if you have friends that own well adjusted dogs (probably not the one you mention in the post), bring them with you. Touch him all over to see how he deals with being handled, run with him walk with him one at a time, move slowly and confidently and look for signs of stress: http://www.maplewooddog.com/MDT/Articles/Communication-Handling-Articles/DogBodyLanguagePoster.jpg

You do not need to adopt the first sad eyes you see.

As for preventing behavioral issues like nipping, licking being a pest. You may want to start with a younger dog (10-24 months) who is less set in his ways and beginning to mature; more of a blank slate and willing to learn what is expected of him. It goes both ways, you must constantly train him what is expected in your household and how to distract him from doing things you dislike.

Keywords like this can point to a balanced dog: turnkey, easy going, relaxed, outgoing, happy, confident, playful, loves car rides, friendly, biddable, keen, young, good with people, good with kids, good with other dogs and cats, smart, spayed, aims to please, settles nicely, crate trained, house broken, watches tv :).

Stay away from dogs with keywords like these until you have more experience to care for their needs: special needs, shy, medical issues or allergies, reactive, fearful, may become aggressive, no kids, no cats, separation anxiety, needs lots of room, active homes only, growls, was a chained outdoor dog, not for apartments, suffered from parvo when young, epilepsy, intact, not for dog parks, not for off leash, needs lots of love, came from another country, strong prey drive, thinks he's smarter than humans.

For the more concrete questions: what to buy, what to do before the big day, how to introduce the dog to your home. Start with this book. It helped me SO much as a first timer.

http://www.amazon.com/books/dp/1891767143

Invest in some good positive training courses a month later and make sure the whole household knows they need to provide activity/food/walks for the dog. You might want to do some breed research and find what agrees with your lifestyle. Many shelter dogs are mixes, but it's good to at least know the breeds so you don't end up with a Husky, feral dog, wolf hybrid or sighthound as your first dog. Not that there's anything wrong with it, but they can be a handful for people with no dog experience.

• Culture Clash
  
• The Other End of the leash
  
• Execl-Erated Learning
  
• Don't Shoot the Dog
  
• The Thinking Dog: Crossover clicker training
  
  All of the above in that order. The first two are on dogs in general and how to work with them with out being a dick. The other three are serious books on dog training theory. The last one especially is amazing and well worth a read once you get the other concepts down.
  
  One other book I would highly recommend to read
  
  
• Be the pack leader
  
  The reason I recommend it once you get in to dog training you are going to her a lot pro and against Caesar Milan. And it is far better to be informed so you can speak competently about it. Honestly I don't think he is the great satan he is made out to be. People need to exercise their dogs more and take an active role in training them. More people need to preach this message. Its mostly the flooding and dominance theory that I personally to find to be bunk.
  
  Read it and read it after you have read the above books so you can be prepared to talk with those that have him as their one and only dog training resource. Don't be a douche with them and put up your nose and shout them down but help try to steer them to other resources instead.
  
  So now you have read books and watched DVDs what now?
  
  Practice! How do you practice? Damn good question. If you have your own dog start there and then find yourself a local rescue or shelter in need and in most metro areas there are.
  
  Volunteer to work with shelter dogs this has many advantages.
  
  
• There is no shortage of dogs that need help
  
• You will be working with dogs at their worst and most stressed
  
• You will get a lot of experience with several kinds of dogs (small, big, hyper, calm, kennel stressed, flat out crazy, shy, confident)
  
• These dogs need the most help and you will be quietly literally for some of them saving their lives by making them more adoptable and staving off kennel stress
  
  NOTE: My own personal bias. Clicker training is godlike. I am getting faster and better results than I ever did with yank and crank or even with lure and reward! I also do all my dog work pro bono with local shelters and rescues.
  
  Example: Teaching a dog to walk at heel in under 45 minutes, with it being solid after only 4 training sessions, completely off lead by 6. Even with my best lure and reward this took months.
  
  TLDR: Read up, get some skills, practice on crazy dogs in shelters, come back to us and ask again after you get a few thousand hours under your belt.
  

Hahaha! Well I'm still working on my 2008 resolutions so you're way ahead of me. My dog (Echo) is doing great - other than pulling on the tether. But OMG - the energy - and so smart! I work from home so several times a day he'll come in my office and just look at me and cry - like "let's play". Mother guilt never goes away, I guess! He's very quiet - have only heard him bark a couple of times. I have a snuffle mat that he enjoys - maybe get him engrossed in that before you walk out the door. He also LOVES those toys that laugh and shake https://www.amazon.com/Hyper-Pet-Doggie-Wiggly-Interactive/dp/B0054C9B1I/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3IFABC6GU5T7A&keywords=interactive+dog+toys&qid=1570510557&sprefix=interactive%2Caps%2C367&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMFpTV0ozQldMTFhRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzA0MzY1MVlaWlFRSDVIUEk4UyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDIzNjE3MkhWUEhWNTgzM1VXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== . I live right on the river and near the mountains so he gets quite a lot of exercise - although we're a little more cautious as it is bear season here! I took him to the ocean for the first time last weekend and he absolutely loved that as well. He is learning how to catch (and not eat) a frisbee as well. And yes - I'm exhausted. Cat people have it so easy..... ;)

We did so much polite behavior training yesterday. Kirin did downs and sits while waiting for dogs, scooters, etc to pass! We had a funny moment with this guy watching us train and then he joined us for like 5 mins of our walk asking about him and the breed 😂. That was new for me ..

PS my American peeps the treat and train is on SUPER SALE on Amazon. $63+ tax! Ours gets here today which we bought off a friend and I'm so exited to use it for mat work!

PetSafe Treat & Train Manners Minder Remote Reward Dog Trainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010B8CHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PpDPDbPE2XATX

I looove this pet bed for your exact struggle.

My rescue boy STILL randomly marks our house (it’s been four years since adopting him).

That bed is so easy to wash and durable. I vacuum mine or hose it if it’s truly dirty (it’s meant to be hosed off).

I don’t think you will be retraining that poor abused boy at this point, I commend you on doing your best.

You might modify a sherpa pillow cover to snugly fit over the top. Maybe a fitted covering would be less appealing to bunch up and pee on.

Regardless, it may be easier to surrender to daily blanket washes and use that as his bed. I was so fed up with how most pet beds are not washer-friendly. The Coolaroo is great for allergies since I can clean it easily and wash blankies. Best of luck.

I added this in a lower comment, but I want to put it here: the Omega Ball Tricky Treat Ball is another awesome feeder! We used the IQ Ball for a few months and Monty loved it. We got the Omega one because our apartment has a lot of tiles and metallic closet doors, and we didn't want to piss off the neighbours with noise.

Monty also gets the post-walk crazies, and this completely takes care of them! (Usually.)

I think that u/jaspersnake has great suggestions on how to address your immediate issues. And here is a prior post on growling that includes good advice.

To develop a better relationship with the dog over the long term, I think that reading at a general level would help. Patricia McConnell’s For the Love of a Dog addresses how to interpret and respond to dog “emotions,” including fear in particular (I'd say BF's dog is fearful). That might be a good place to start. Jean Donaldson’s Culture Clash is another book that’s often recommended. It’s very good, but not as smooth a read. In my opinion there aren’t a whole lot of great websites on dog behavior and dog training. Patricia McConnell’s site has training resources and a blog, both of which include wonderful material but are a bit clunky to navigate. Dog Star Daily is also very sound, but again a bit clunky.

My dog has this kibble-dispensing ball and gets most of his breakfast from it. We've had a lot of kibble-dispensing toys but this one is my favorite.

You can also give her more mental stimulation by varying your walking routes, taking longer walks, or bringing a book and a picnic blanket to the park so she can lie in the sun in a new place. Try different types/textures of kong stuffings, or have friends over if she likes meeting new folks. Learning new tricks, as other people have said- basically anything that's new and a positive experience for her.

Remember that while we tend to think of mind, body, and social stuff as all being separate, she's still using her brain for walks, sniffing stuff, and for social interactions. There's already a lot of mental stimulation in her life. Trying some new games and learning new tricks will be fun for you both but don't feel bad if she's uninterested in puzzle toys.

I think it's okay if the bed is plush and warm. The main thing is that the dog goes cheerfully and stays there until they are released. If you do some googling, you'll find a lot of resource on this topic - how to teach it and the different ways you can use it to help manage problem behaviors.

I actually don't use a mat, I use a raised dog bed (the criteria of "stay on this thing" is a bit easier to teach on a raised bed).

For the lure vs. reward, "bribery vs. reward" probably would've been a better description for me to use. I unfortunately don't have time to type out a full response on the topic, but here's are a link that speak to what I'm referencing

Bribery vs Rewards

Setting up you're training so that you're consistently rewarding instead of bribing -- and practicing it in lots of places -- will get you much better training results, and will help break the "will only work if you show me food" habit.

I would give something like this a try! It seems great for your situation, especially if you like the idea of potty pads.
Fresh Patch Disposable Dog Potty with REAL Grass - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8.NPyb6T2Z8MT

Also, a dog walker would be a great idea! Gives your dog a much needed potty break and some extra exercise. I would think you could find someone for a pretty reasonable price.

Definitely looks like there's pit bull, past that I'm not sure. She's a real cutie!

As a heads up, if you're really curious, you could get one of those DNA tests done with a swab. Wisdom Panel is a popular one, and people like to share the results over at /r/doggydna. :)

We use the large KONG Extreme Dog Toy, Medium, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GUDZO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sQ81AbHCEGYVC, trixies flipboard 2 TRIXIE Pet Products Flip Board, Level 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RR81AbJEX56X9. treat ball OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oS81AbJ0XDRE8, a treat hiding thing Dog Smart Treat Dispensing Dog Toy Brain and Exercise Game for Dogs by Nina Ottosson https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MS81AbJWBH0TC, a rolling nibble kibble PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy, Medium/Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0RRUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FT81AbYG9PW7N, a self toy KONG Rambler Ball, Large (colors vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BBGRT4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wU81AbYC200R4, and a large tug a jug PetSafe Medium/Large Sportsmen Tug A Jug Pet Chew Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4KZ8M0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LV81AbFBTP67F.

The kong I use spread treats inside because dry treats last only a few seconds.

Trixies flipboard is low to meh at getting her attention, sometimes she doesnt care for the food to bother with it.

Iq treat ball she finds a way to break, pushing into a wall, chomping on it, the moment you look away.

The hide a treat thing is easy for her.

The nibble kibble is the same as the treat ball.

The kong rambler she easily pulls the ball from its station and the toy is moot, now its just a ball.

The tug a jug becomes a weapon that she whips around until it smashes open.

The one thing I have noticed that can keep her attention is a pile of wood we have outside. Inside that pile of wood is chipmunks and squirrels that she messes with until I call her over. I'm thinking that she enjoys live toys? Or does she it as just something for her to herd.

While not an overall solution, these beds are awesome for dogs who like to chew up beds. We have three dogs who arent crated anymore, but occasionally feel the need to eat their nice beds. Coolaroos are hard to chew, easy on the joints, and easy to clean/replace the mesh bit. I agree with the high-energy-ness of border collies statements in here but throwing in my two sense for the bed aspect at least

First, congratulations! I'm excited for you. Reminds me of my first time and the excitement it brought. Here's a list of things I learned to keep on hand for my Dobbie:
 

• Oatmeal Shampoo - Oatmeal naturally conditions fur and keeps skin hydrated. My Dog had dandruff and I didn't want to get anything that was medicated. This shampoo helped keep the coat clean and shiny.
   
  
  
• Grizzly Salmon Oil Supplement - Most dog food sold in bulk is full of corn, grains and ground up tendons and bones. If you're not adding meats, whole grains, pumpkin, etc to his diet, just kibble by itself doesn't contain enough nutrients. Salmon oil was also recommended by my Vet. to help keep skin, coat healthy. Just a small squirt on top of kibble and he seemed to really love his meal.
   
  
  
• Grain free Turkey Jerky - All treats don't have to be biscuits or rawhide. These are some healthier alternatives and not that expensive either.
   
  
  
• High Quality Nail Clippers - If you plan on trimming his nails yourself. Mine wouldn't let me at first, but with some training, patience and treats, this became easier and saves atleast $10-$15 dollars each time on nail-trims at the groomers.

At 9 weeks, she's definitely not fully potty trained lol so you'll have to work on that yourself. I don't know if I'm misinterpreting your post but are you 100% ready for a baby animal that requires A LOT of attention and training? They really can't just be independent or operate on "when you feel like it".

Anyway, check out /r/puppy101 and see the resources they recommend. Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Dr. Sophia Yin is a good start.

I second u/i_illustrate_stuff 's suggestion on the cot beds. The Kuranda dog beds are pretty much indestructible and I believe have a warranty on them. They are pricey, but you will indeed have it forevermore. Amazon has less expensive options such as this one that you might want to try first. I'm sure you can locate one that will fit inside her crate.

I would absolutely not recommend having her uncrated yet if she's still that unreliable. This should be worked up over time at a gradual pace (leaving for short periods, gradually increasing the duration). I'd try to always leave something fun for her to chew when left to keep her busy/hopefully less likely to focus on the bedding, but some will chew regardless.

in any case, we have this self-warming cot-style bed, and my greyhound (obviously the boniest of boney dogs) does really seem to enjoy it. He's not crated all the time, though he does have to wear his basket muzzle when left unsupervised as even at 10 years old, he still can find himself getting into trouble!

Check out books by Patricia McConnell (especially The Other End of the Leash), Brenda Aloff's guide to canine body language, Stanley Coren, Jean Donaldson's Culture Clash, Jane Killion's When Pigs Fly. Dogstardaily is great and has some free e-books. Also check out NILIF as a good way to institute structure without resorting to "dominance methods" and this page has some great advice as well.

My dog hasn't ever really "gotten" the logic toys that are in the form of a ball that you roll around, but we've started getting him puzzleboards and he loves them! It took him a while to learn and he gets super excited now whenever we bring it out. There's a whole series of them and we're about to get our bud his second one!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0054Q9TMA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499449077&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+trixie+puzzle+board&dpPl=1&dpID=416kgbG3sHL&ref=plSrch

1. Stuffed moose
   
   
2. IQ Treat Ball (she gets kibble in it)
   
   
3. Kong Wobbler (more kibble)
   
   
4. Treat & Train (still more kibble)
   
   
5. Snuffle mat (have I mentioned kibble?)
   
   So yeah, the only toy that has held her interest despite its inability to dispense food is the stuffed moose. I've actually put all the rest of her toys away in hopes of someday reintroducing them and having them seem novel again.

I don't think it's a Shar Pei - they're wrinkly, yes, but I don't see any other traits in there. It looks to me like a Bloodhound mix. Note the big ears and dark saddle. There may also be some Labrador in there.

Have you considered a dog DNA test? Wisdom Panel 3.0 ($80) is pretty basic and will tell you what breed your pup is, while Embark Veterinary ($170) gives you the breed as well as a comprehensive DNA health screen.

I've been using the PetSafe 3in1 Harness for three months now and it's still like new even though my 60-pounds-of-muscle AmStaff definitely pulls now and then. I wanted something lightweight for summer in Florida and this one is very adjustable and fits her big chest well and secure. You can attach the leash front or back and it also has a handle on the back I use to help her down from the truck. Highly recommend this brand.

https://smile.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Makers-Adjustable-No-Pull/dp/B071S2XZRW

Read a basic dog training book if you haven't yet? I like 'The Power of Positive Dog Training' by Pat Miller or 'Dog Friendly Dog Training' by Andrea Arden. They are just very basic training books, there are a lot of more specific books for behavioral issues.

Patricia McConnell (my favorite dog behaviorists) has a short book on adopting a dog and a second one on getting a puppy.

So, yea, check out the library. More productive than just the random excitement.

This is a great primer for body language.

Preventing leash reactivity is fairly simple. You train the dog to focus on you using whatever it is the dog finds motivating. Then you slowly use those skills out in the world. Over time the dog learns that other dogs = something great and focusing on you.

The growling is usually a signal of him being uncomfortable with the situation. The protocol above with help with that because it returns the focus to you rather than keeping it on the other dog.

Off-leash training comes with them knowing that being next to you is a great place to be and their recall is perfect. Give it a couple months at the very least before you even begin to worry about off-leash walks.

I also highly recommend reading Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right by Sophia Yin. It's a fast read and will set you and your puppy up for success.

I've decided to wait a bit and see if a book helps at all: Fired Up, Frantic and Freaked out by Laura VanArendonk Baugh. I picked it up yesterday and I'll give it a week to see how it goes.... $7 is a little nicer on the wallet than a bronze course and has the same amount of input lol.

It starts off with touch targeting (which she could do asleep) and shaping mat work. Since we didn't have any luck with the Fenzi shaping course.... well we'll see.

Pretty excited about it though... because of this book, I at least have a good way to explain why my dog turns her brain off if nothing else!

I don't know about walks, but I do know about indoor potty-training. They sell these things that I think are called puppy pads. It's like a slate of fake grass with a tray underneath (only $20) It's scented like grass and everything, so if your dog is used to going outside, this will be an easier transition than newspaper. And I think the playpen is fair. I know my Shetland sheepdogs never played unless I was around, so I know mine at least would've been satisfied with that amount of space.

puppy pad

Maybe his butt itches? :-P

Sniffing the butt is polite in the dog world - it's less threatening than a face to face meeting. When a dog turns his back he is saying "I'm not a threat" it makes the other dog more likely to react in a peaceful way, and your dog is calmed by this too.

Some references:

• Calming Signals
  
  
• Illustrations by Lili Chin - the whole album is awesome.
  
  
• Giant book of Canine Body Language
  
  

Yes, gonoughts! It's the ONLY toy my friend's 80lb pit bull can't destroy. They have a lifetime warranty and interestingly the first version we got from Amazon did get chewed up in a couple weeks. After I sent it back the replacement they sent is is INDESTRUCTIBLE. That dog chews on it every day and has hardly made a dent in it after more than a year. I think the original version was some kind of cheaper rubber and they sent me the real thing when they realized I was going to use the warranty.

Switch to a better food.. I use taste of wild wetland.. Go to trader joes or a organic food store and pick up a jar of coconut oil.. I say trader joes because that's where I've seen it the cheapest.. Mix a tablespoon in to its food once a day.. Start slow tho.. With like a teaspoon then work your way up to about a tablespoon in a half through a couple weeks.. Some dogs if you mix to much in at first will get a belly ache..

Also brush the dog then rub some coconut oil on the problem area.. I rub a little all over them helps with smell and keeps him soft.. Then brush one more time to work it through.

This helped a lot for my dog.. I recently started adding salmon oil once a day too his food.. His skin is even better and much shiner.. I use

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-All-Natural-Supplement-Pump-Bottle-Dispenser/dp/B0002ABR6E

Hope this helps

Yeah, unfortunately senior incontinence is one of those things you just have to adapt to. A doggy door is a good idea. If he doesn't seem to improve with trying to re-housetrain him, you can also look into a grass pad, something like this. There are a bunch of them out there, I have no idea what's best, that's just an example of one. it may be more attractive to him than the papery puppy pads.

Hugging a new dog isn't the best idea. Dogs generally don't understand hugs to be a friendly gesture.

Terriers will come back at you, every time. They're gorgeous, energetic dogs but they are the Weebles of the dog world - if you push them, even accidentally or nicely, they bounce right back into your face. They need a LOT of time to bond with you and to get to the stage where they trust you to do silly or unpleasant stuff without them instantly getting pissy.

That said, breaking skin is a step past the usual terrier behavior. I'd look into a trainer and get an assessment on her behavior. They will be able to observe her and see where she is or isn't behaving normally - she may be giving signals you didn't see. Because dog signals are totally unlike human signals sometimes - I mean, a tongue flick means stress and a dog who sniffs the ground when standing around with other dogs is often offering an appeasing gesture to defuse a tense situation. I don't know about you, but I'd have never guessed either of those.

This is a very interesting book about dog body language. It's basically a lot of large photos of dogs, with detailed explanations of what they're doing.

https://www.amazon.com/Canine-Body-Language-Photographic-Interpreting/dp/1929242352

Haha, I have this Trixie flip board myself. It's pretty well made and has held up well. The only problem is that Frankfurt's too good at it now. Been trying to decide which Trixie toy to get next :P

I started giving my dog some Grizzly Salmon Oil about 2-3 months ago. It took several weeks to have a noticeable effect, but now the amount that she sheds has decreased pretty sharply and she seems to be much softer and her coat is much brighter.

I actually purchased a kit for my girlfriend this last Christmas and it was worth it! She loved getting to know her dog better (especially since she picked her up off the street). It was the Embark Dog DNA Test: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EINBA76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sRQ9ybE5ZD3B7.

10 Minute Dog Training Games by Kyra Sundance is a great book that is filled with stuff to keep a BC entertained.

The Other End of the Leash (linked by /u/pjdwyer30) is a must-read. I think Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor is a great introduction to clicker training and the principles behind it.

I found Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide extremely useful, but I had never spent more than a few hours with a dog before I got my own.

Not sure if you mean one of these http://www.amazon.com/Coolaroo-Large-Steel-Framed-Brunswick-Green/dp/B000P7JKD6

If that is it, I have that model and my dog loves it. Definitely recommend it

Call your vet (before you bring the puppy home) and ask about the Parvo risk in your area. In some places, Parvo is very prevalent and you probably wouldn't want to bring him outside at all until he is fully vaccinated. In others (like where I live), it is pretty rare and the majority of vets and trainers recommend starting potty training on grass immediately.

Between 7-10ish weeks, puppies start to make surfaces preferences for where they want to go potty. The problem with potty pads is that they feel like carpet. As a result, using potty pads creates a surface preference for going potty on soft fabrics, like carpet. I'd avoid using potty pads at all costs, if possible (if you are in a high parvo risk area, check out something like the Fresh Patch, which is a patch of real grass, so your puppy can create a preference for going potty on grass

my boston would use the shirts as a new toy. His 3rd favorite thing involves me throwing the toy across the apartment for him to chase. So, in the same spirit of leostotch's idea, I have put a semi hard treat inside some of his toys. This will occupy him from 30min to an hour. Works well for the socal heat wave season.

I bought one of these and one of these. Hopefully she gets the flip board. She only likes toys that are food related so I want more enrichment for her.

I was thinking of getting her one of these treat balls for her food too.

She eats soooo fast and then she burps so I am getting worried about it! I have been trying 3x a day.

Honestly if this were my dog I would go in the bathroom, turn on the water, and at the first bark dash out and say "no, quiet" I would do that for a bit then get in the shower, but I would also leave a shower soapy and wet to correct for barking. My dogs aren't allowed to bark ever though. I am pretty crazy about it, but I have to be, I could not have my dogs if they barked. If I had a problem barker I'd get a treat and train so I could reward quiet behavior without leaving the bathroom.

Treat and train https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0010B8CHG
Put the remote in a baggy so it doesn't get wet.

Starmark Bob-a-lot is the best, completely adjustable.

With Busy Buddy, our favourites are the Kibble Nibble & Magic Mushroom.

He also loves his Buster Cube and IQ Ball (be careful it's smaller than you think).

I think I should note though that I don't care about the amount of noise that toys make on the floor. I've seen complain about some of these for that reason so if that's something you need to be aware of probably only the Bob a lot.

Well, I almost cringe to recommend it because it's very dry and the author consistently uses 20 pages to say what could be said in a paragraph but I'll tell you 'The Culture Clash' by Jean Donaldson is pretty comprehensive & understandable. Then again, my perception might just be because I'm fairly A.D.D. and have no patience for long-windedness.

In addition to other great recommendations:

The Genius of Dogs
https://www.amazon.com/Genius-Dogs-Smarter-Than-Think/dp/0142180467

This one is not modern but provides a clear explanation of learning theory:
Excel-erated Learning
https://www.amazon.com/Excel-Erated-Learning-Explaining-Plain-English/dp/1888047070

And The Culture Clash
https://www.amazon.com/Culture-Clash-Understanding-Relationship-Domestic/dp/1888047054

Not sure you need anything special really. A removable cover is handy to wash it periodically. I got one from PetSmart for around $40, I think.
Mine also sleeps on a blanket, the floor, my bed, couch, etc. You should be able to give your pup a padded spot for well under a $100.
A lot of dogs like these elevated beds too. Here's one for under $30 - http://www.amazon.com/Coolaroo-Large-Steel-Framed-Brunswick-Green/dp/B000P7JKD6

I too, highly recommend salmon oil for dogs. My pit had awful mange and skin irritation when we adopted him...this stuff, along with a healthy diet and Benadryl (when he seemed to be scratching himself excessively) worked miracles. It's been a year later and his coat is amazing and the mange has subsided...we give him a few pumps of salmon oil with his food everyday. Definitely purchase off Amazon you will probably not find a better deal anywhere else.

My dogs love these puzzle balls. They have to learn to roll it with their nose to make the food come out.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B005B3LB2C/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=dog%2Bpuzzle%2Bball&qid=1557519916&s=gateway&sr=8-7&th=1

How Dogs Learn and Culture Clash

Both great books for new and veteran dog owners.

[This grass potty pad](http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005G7S6UI?pc_redir=1397774444&3rd robot_redir=1)

Taking into consideration that he is already trained, this would be the easiest solution since grass is a familiar potty area. If you try regular potty pads or anything of that sort you'll basically be re-training him.

buy one of these treat dispensing puzzle toys, seriously, it has saved my sanity many times...

http://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-Puzzler-Colors/dp/B00106WXSA

This has got to be the laziest, but most genius purchase I ever made: the Treat & Train treat dispenser. It's not super cheap, but I would pay 3 times the price for what it does! The dispenser can be set to dispense a treat at certain intervals without you having to do anything. So I just sit on the couch, and my dog will wait vigilantly for treats for HOURS. Seriously, if I left the thing on all day, I know he would sit there the whole time. He gets a brain workout from all that vigilance, and I get to do absolutely nothing.

Mars Veterinary Wisdom Panel 3.0 Breed Identification DNA Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jz5Jzb1D63SK0

Bucky is a harness escape artist and his build sounds like your dog. I use the pet safe 3 in 1 harness (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S2XZRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqv4Db6V4N8NJ) and he can still slip from it but it takes him longer so I can stop him.

I also stay behind him because he can only slip it by backing up when I'm in front of him.

Well, "aggression" for a lot of people is just "play". And there's nothing wrong in my mind with him growling at your other dog, especially if he just wants to be left alone which is his right. If your other dog isn't a complete dunce he'll hopefully pick up on that. You shouldn't punish Beck if your stepdad's dog keeps pushing him, Beck gives him clear signals he doesn't like it, and eventually Beck is forced to take more drastic action. If you want to avoid a confrontation you could always step in before it gets to that and let your dad's dog know he's being a jerk.

http://www.amazon.com/Canine-Body-Language-Photographic-Interpreting/dp/1929242352/ is a great book on dog body language if you want to study up.

Hmmm. You seem to be using some old school techniques. They definitely can and do work (e.g. Lassie and Rin Tin Tin). But it can be unnecessarily stressful for the dog and damage your relationship with him. It can also create bad behavior by making your dog fearful if you overdo it a little bit. So that sort of old school training can be dangerous when done by someone who doesn't know what they are doing.


Positive reinforcement training is generally easier, faster, and more effective, especially if your dog is food motivated (like most dogs). You can enroll your dog in a beginner training class at the local Petsmart or go somewhere fancier if you want. But I would definitely enroll in formal training classes. Here's a great book for getting a sense of positive reinforcement training. I know it might sound kind of like sissy training, but it works. It's the only kind of training I use with my Rottie because I just don't want to take a chance of making him fearful and reactive by using old school techniques.

Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right

Catch him before it even happens. Most dogs give some type of sign that they need to go, whether it be sniffing excessively, wandering away to a quiet area, etc. Try to figure out what signs he gives that he needs to go and once he does start to give those signs, take him outside immediately.

Consider investing in dog grass or something similar. It will be easier on you and your dog to have a potty space available right outside your backdoor.

I've found that salmon oil works well. Also, feeding your dog a grain-free diet could help. Dry, itchy skin is a common indication that a dog has a wheat allergy.

My pit bull had mange when we adopted him and also gets skin irritation sometimes--the vet recommended a Benadryl, 1mg for each pound your dog weighs. My dog is 70-75lbs so we give him (3)25mg tablets a day if he's having issues. Also, just a few pumps of salmon oil a day has done wonders for him and he has an amazing coat now. The cheapest I've found is on Amazon

I got this one from Amazon and it's lasted months and months. My dog gets 3 squirts a day and this bottle should last me at least 4 more months.

I would add The Culture Clash to that list.

What about this sort of elevated dog bed?

Get them a raised dog bed. I have one of these for each of my german shepherds.

I have a Treat and Train It worked through walls for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Our-Pets-Smarter-Interactive-Inches/dp/B003ARUKU0
My irish setter uses the 5 inch one

Hyper pet doggie tail - it's a bouncing, noise making dog toy.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hyper-Pet-49484-Doggie-Tail/dp/B0054C9B1I

Goughnuts. It's a rubber shaped doughnut. If your dog destroys it they replace it for free.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042JJB82/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_199_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=STZYTS8THAHM80WTKR7P&dpPl=1&dpID=51vS4-hICXL

You can cut amazon links off before the ref, all you need is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0

Or put some text in brackets followed by the link in paranethesis text, so you get this and it doesn't matter how long the link is.

I think you may just need to stop giving her plush toys like u/alf3311 said. As for beds, you may just want to invest in a Kuranda bed (https://www.amazon.com/Original-Elevated-Pet-Bed-Coolaroo/dp/B000P7JKD6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496333952&sr=8-3&keywords=kuranda) for your pup, which is a common dog bed people use if their dog destroys standard beds.

Have you tried something like this in the house as you work on getting her to the point of going outside? I've never used them/am not recommending a specific brand, but a lot of dogs that have been used to going on grass their whole lives prefer it - maybe if you give her that option while indoors, she'll stop going on your carpet!

8 hours is a long time for your dog to hold her urine.
If there is no option of having someone let her out, then, I hate to suggest it, but a pee pad or [grass pee pad] (http://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI) could work. Section off an area with a x-pen enclosing the crate with the pee pad at the opposite end to the crate.

https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/product-reviews/B005G7S6UI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_kywd?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&showViewpoints=0&pageNumber=1&filterByKeyword=Tick

There are a couple right there, but there are quite a few negative reviews that also mention fleas, mold, flies, etc. I think that one person saying they ordered three with ticks was my deciding factor ha

my border collie had a real issue with dry itchy skin and flaking. i added this salmon oil to her food once a day and the problem cleared up after a few days. i cant speak to the welts, though.

We've always used puzzle feeders for our dog, even as a puppy. We did some hand-feeding early on per our trainer's suggestion to make sure our dog didn't become resource aggressive, then moved to a bowl in which we would slowly drop the kibble, and then a bowl where we would add treats as he was eating.

When we started feeding kibble without any kind of interruptions, we immediately started with puzzles.

First we used the star, then went to the iq puzzle ball when our pups' snout got to big, and now use this one.

Yep. Check out this book on the subject. The shelter is such a weird and stressful environment. Some dogs get wound up and hyper, some get scared and withdrawn. It can take months for your shelter dog's real personality to emerge.

My mom adopted an nervous wreck of a dog 3 years ago, and she's just starting to come out of her shell. She would whine for over hour once my mother left the house for work, and pee on the floor when new people came over. She had not done the 'play bow' until about a year ago, would stand petrified at the dog park instead of playing. She only figured out how fetch worked this past winter. So it may take your mom's dog a bit of time to re-adjust to the new surroundings.

But I'm not a dog psychologist, so definitely talk to a professional about it. Aside from seeing a vet as /u/PikeleMaster suggested, is she very food motivated? You could try seeing if a puzzle toy of some variety might help with some mental stimulation or distract her enough to not pace.

It's worth it. It will be much more expensive when the violence escalates and a dog is seriously injured and needs surgery or something like that. Ruling out a medical cause for aggression (hormone levels, pain, or something else), chances are that these fights have escalated from smaller acts of aggression that went previously ignored or unnoticed by yourself and your wife. Dogs can be very subtle about the way they communicate with one another vis a vis who controls what resources, who has access to the most areas of the territory, etc.

Your instincts may be correct in that the GSDx is the problem even if he appears to be the victim. It may be that he has been (subtly) bullying the other dogs around in terms of who has access to you for a long time and they have put up with it for whatever reason. As he is getting older, perhaps your pitty observes or knows that he is weaker and is challenging him more which is causing problems between them (basically her saying "I'm sick of your shit, old man!"). Or he iscoming more overt in his displays (growling, snarling, etc and the other dog is not taking kindly to this).

This is all total speculation as I haven't seen this of course. And I am NOT a professional behaviorist or anything like that. My qualifications are thus: I live with 4 dogs, one of which is a pretty serious "problem" dog (the other 3 are lovely). I have worked in a dog day care for over 3 years and manage multi-dog interactions every day of my life. I have a serious interest in canine behavior and have attended just shy of a dozen seminars with world-renowned behaviorists and trainers, and have consulted with behaviorists for my own dog's problems.

My actual advice of course would be not to let them be together. That is the safest option. If you would like to understand more about the dynamics of your dogs' relationships, though this comes with obvious risks and is not really recommended, you could set up a camera (or more) in the main living area(s) that your dogs share. Go about your daily routines as normal as if nothing is going on. This is actually quite difficult to do, and why this is not recommended, because your behavior affects your dogs behavior GREATLY (this is why in multi-dog households it is EXTREMELY rare for the dogs to fight when the owners are not present). You might find that the mere knowledge of the fact that you are recording, and the expectation that something might "happen" will affect your behavior so greatly that your dogs behavior will be atypical.

The idea is not to capture a fight on film. I would never ever ever recommend that you set up a situation for your pets to become aggressive with each other to "test" them. The idea is to record their interactions on a normal day when no fights occur, so that you can then go back and look very closely at the way they interact. You will be able to see who is deferent to whom, which dog is potentially "causing" problems, and what exactly is happening when things get a little tense (and most important: how the tension is dissipated). Since dogs communicate via split-second body language signals, it can be really hard to see these things in real time, especially if you don't know exactly what to look for.

The benefit of a behaviorist is sheer experience. A good behaviorist can read any dog like a book, knows exactly what to look for and when, and has the education to back up what she observes. If you feel you must take a DIY approach to this situation due to financial reasons, then I would highly suggest studying this book until you know it by heart, and reading this one as well. The often disregarded (around here) Cesar Milan has a few things right. The main one being "calm, assertive" energy from the handler/owner. Like I said, your behavior affects your dogs' behavior. If you feel that you are getting nervous around your dogs and worried about them, stop right there and listen to your gut and don't take any risks. Separate the dogs and cool off. Your normal attitude towards them should be on the positive side of neutral, if that makes sense.

I hope this helps you somewhat and please acknowledge this HUGE DISCLAIMER that this is not professional advice, just somewhat experienced dog owner who has come upon knowledge because of having to deal with fights between my dogs and a real interest in preventing them at my job. Give yourself as much education as you can, hire the behaviorist, become a better dog owner.