(Part 2) Best products from r/ebikes

>the display shows me that it actually is pulling 1300W instead of the 1000W this set is supposed to-not sure the battery likes that lol

This is normal. Motors are rated based on continuous output. But traction motors are not used continuously, instead the power comes in shorter bursts. So you can push more power through them then their rating and still be fine.

The real limitation on motors is heat, not wattage. This is why statorade is a nice upgrade for DD hub motors. Keeps them cooler for longer. Allows the user to push more more torque and better hill climbing performance.

>fucking. spare.air.tire nothing ...now smooth riding with the stock chinesium tire that was laying around (still no spare nothing) löl :)

First upgrade: Toolbag with spare innertube, patches, and hand tools. A bicycle multitool is cheap. Throw in there a adjustable wrench for the bolts on the rear tire and you are golden.

I like the type that fit on the top tube just behind the handle bars. They have ones that will allow you to put your phone into a water proof pouch. Pretty handy if you like to use it for navigation and tunes.

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>light is a bit of a problem...need more for winter season on trail...for streets this Lifebee is ok

Second upgrade: Get a super bright light for trails and keep your Lifebee for streets so you don't go around accidentally blinding people. :)

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>the grips-handle whatever you call them are stinking like fucking filthy plastic trash!!1

Third upgrade: Switch over to a thumb throttle (if you don't already have one) and get those big fluffy foam handles.

Either that or wear gloves. :P

>have to switch to new bike grips and thought about diy fumbling my own thumb gas out of the rock shock compression lever ?! would ne nice and undercover :)

They have a very nice 'low profile thumb throttle' that I like a lot. It's pretty stealthy and can be used on either side of the bike.

https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/throttles/t-lever.html

https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Handlebar-Control-Electric-Scooter/dp/B0773H9QDL

I don't know if that is a good one or not or if there is any real differences between these other then price. I don't have one, but my next one will be one of those.

>anyone ever done something like this ?

I have swapped throttles. It can be a bit of a chore to keep track of the wiring since each kit is always a bit different and there isn't any real standardization. It helps a lot to write down on a piece of paper what each wire does what and take pictures clear before making any changes.

On most of the things I upgraded on my cheap kit I ended up cutting off the original connections and replacing them with my own.

Used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K

with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LVGVTY/

to make these:

https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#jstsm

But there are probably easier ways to do it.

I haven't found a guide that I'm really crazy about. There are too many variables to build a really nail down a DIY. Every build is unique.

In general, kits are recommended for first-time builders. You can order a rear-hub kit, then order the battery separately. I'm in the US, so my knowledge is very focused on US suppliers. If EM3ev.com ships to the UK, they're a really fantastic supplier for both hub motor kits and batteries. Especially batteries. Most hub motor kits you find are variations on the same design, just knocked-off by every other Chinese vendor.

For a delivery bike, I'd look for an inexpensive 26" hardtail MTB frame. They tend to be stronger than 700C hybrid frames, so they'll hold up better to the abuse of the extra speed that comes with an electric motor assist. Aluminum is lighter, but steel will hold up longer. Don't worry about the extra weight; you'll be adding 25 lbs of motor and battery anyway. You can add a robust rack to hold your food delivery basket. Topeak is awesome and has accessories that should work for exactly what you're trying to do. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-MTX-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B000FI6WXQ/ref=asc_df_B000FI6WXQ/

When building your kit, you'll need to figure out/look for the following:

• Dropout width. Most MTBs are 135mm. You can squeeze/stretch this by 3-5mm without issue.
  
• Make sure there is plenty of space inside the frame triangle for the battery. This is why I don't recommend full-suspension bikes. Their triangle is usually pretty cramped.
  
• Disc brakes are nice for wet climates. Nothing like cruising along at 25 MPH only to find that your wet rim brakes take a couple of RPM to clear themselves of water before they actually stop you. Having said that, if you find a solid rim-brake equipped bike, a set of Kool Stop Salmon pads will do you just fine.
  
• When ordering/configuring your kit, you'll have to select "freewheel" or "cassette". This has to do with how the rear chainring(s) mount. Here's an explainer: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html. Don't sweat this too much, because depending upon your donor bike, you might change out the rear cassette anyway.
  
  A MAC motor kit from EM3ev would be a great fit for your purposes. Their kits are very configurable. With that motor and a CA3 (Cycle Analyst V3), you could start out with a throttle build, then add in a pedal assist system (PAS) later. The quality of the motor, controller, and CA3 is better than what you get on many store bought ebikes.
  
  https://em3ev.com/shop/upgrade-mac-kit-with-4750v-battery-1500w-max/

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

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I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

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Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

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Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

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>1. I think I have a standard Shimano threaded bottom bracket which is 68mm (BC 1.37 x 24 road). Will this be compatible with the BBSxx? Pics: [https://imgur.com/a/A92Cp1W](https://imgur.com/a/A92Cp1W

Yup

>2. Do I need any special tools to remove the bottom bracket other than a basic $10 spanner tool like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWX9J7S

You need a crank puller. I use the $10 Oumer one from Amazon. Works great.

>3. Will I need any spacers? I recall reading that I may need 5mm spacers, but unsure if that only applied if I have a 73mm bottom bracket.

Nah. Should be good.

>4. Where can I find the spanners that I'll need to get the Bafang inner and outer lock rings on? I didn't see them on the Bafang website.

You can buy them on AliExpress for $12 or get the high performance version for $19 from Luna. Or just get it finger tight, put a flathead screwdriver on it and tap it tight with a hammer.

>5. If I want to use the mechanical disc brake levers on my bike as a motor cutoff, what do I need to order from Bafang? Is is the "Ebrake sensor" which adds $25 to the cost of the kit?

Yes, you'll need brake sensors to use your stock levers.

>6. Should I order my kit from Bafang USA Direct, or Luna?

I don't have experience with either.

>7. I know this is a matter of preference, but what size chainring do you recommend? I ride my road bike quite a bit and can typically average 17 mph on my commutes. I'm hoping to bring this average up to around 25 mph while still contributing a similar amount of watts. Tire size is 700x35, stock cassette is 11/34T. I'm leaning towards the 52T chainring just for the top end where I imagine I'll be spending more time during my commute.

I would go with a 42T. The BBS02 likes to spin fast or it can overheat. You're going to want a cadence of around 90 RPM.

>8. Anything else I should be aware of as a newbie?

Make sure your battery fits wherever you plan to put it.

Lights.

O, Light Of My Bike.

Bringer Of Safety.

Denier Of Sleep.

Its 4:40 am and I really shouldn't be up answering this, but, as is want of my tiny little mammalian brain, so shall I answer.

The GSD comes with two lights, front (White) and rear (red) that are tied into the power system. These are bare minimum in my opinion.

I have added the following. 2 x small Knog lights front and rear. They are set as flashers to draw attention. One just below the main front light and one mounted to the back of my son's seat as high as possible. I love these things. They are small, bright, have multiple modes, with a direct USB connection (no cable needed), that snap on\off like a dream via magnets and last an amazingly long time between charges. I have a powerbank that I keep with the bike and when I need to charge them I just plug them into the powerbank. They never leave the bike and are always on. Day or night.

2 x Nite Ize spoke lights to add additional side visibility during night riding, which for some reason most bike lack out of the box. My son found these in our local MEC and wanted them for his bike. We all have the now.

Packages of 3M Scotchlite reflective tape. PACKAGES....My GSD will no longer be blue.

My high-vis rain jacket. 2 sizes too large to fit over everything, including over my helmet on rainy days.

With the addition of the powerbank I plan to add additional lighting for safety as well as fun. This will include an LED-based DIY light whip that you might see on an ATV.

See the links below for each product. Not endorsing anything. Just suggestions and starting points for your own lighting system.

Sleep....nah. 5:18 am. Coffee. Maybe sneak in a little Baileys....sssshhhh don't tell my wife.

https://www.amazon.ca/Knog-12144-Plus-Twinpack-Black/dp/B07CYNMD6M/ref=asc_df_B07CYNMD6M/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335360872024&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14652907847022416565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001576&hvtargid=pla-554422510764&psc=1

https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6005-032/SpokeLit-LED-Wheel-Light-Disc-O-Select-%282-Pac

https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5056-778/Cycle-Stripes-Deluxe-2-0-Kit

https://www.marks.com/en/helly-hansen-workwear-mens-narvik-hi-vis-rain-jacket-219944.html#219944%5Bcolor%5D=FLUORN&219944%5Blength%5D=REG

Yeah I already have the Moscow, I purchased it via Amazon from leoncycle and yes it is a heavy bike but runs well. I am in the middle of getting a replacement controller as my one is failing and I figured I'd ask if the controller can be upgraded to allow for more speed or at least more power, I live in San Francisco so we have quite a few hills here.

Power consumption is very low with this bikes battery so yes you get great mileage from one charge.

Also I noticed they finally got the racks in for this bike but I found that the Rack for the Magnum bikes fit perfectly the Peak, Metro, Metro+, Ui6, Mi6, Mi5 & Ui5 all take the same rack as the Moscow. https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/rear-rack-full-size/

These racks are so sturdy you can actually carry a passenger on them.

I also place a GPS Tile inside the housing just above the top of where the battery clips in, if you take the battery out which as you know you need a key to do so, there is one screw holding the piece where the top of the battery clips in, there's quite a bit of space in that area of the frame. I just taped my tile inside and the metal frame seems not to interfere with me tracking my bike via the Tile Bluetooth network. I've tested it and it works.

I purchased a set of Rhinowalk waterproof Panniers also on Amazon and even though they say the kind of rack that fits these bikes are not recommended for these panniers they do actually fit with a wee bit of tweaking.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MV4SC14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did notice a extra red connector inside where I put my GPS tile which is attached to the cable and appears to run to the controller bur the red connector is attached to nothing and the is no other cable that it seems to attached to. Does your bike have the same connector? I think it my be a peripheral for another bike setup.

Yes - Mirrycles work perfectly. Note the second part of the arm is optional - if you want a more compact / cleaner / narrower setup, you can usually do it with just the first.

I have to say though, I've switched to a helmet mirror and find it more useful, not to mention I only need one no matter how many bikes. Third Eye Helmet mount mirror is the one I like best - tried a few others.

Thanks For the info guys. It’s the protruding plastic on the screw posts that seem to be the culprit There is room they are not touching but the battery has some play when mounted in the cradle and the case has some broken locking tabs it’s probably just from bouncing around. I am going to trim some of the post off and sand it smooth. I will cover up the exposed metal with 1 layer of electric tape that should also help when I check it after my next ride to see if trimming the posts helped. I just ordered some Fish paper off amazon and I already have some Kapton tape so I will use that also. I am going to strap the battery around the down tube going foward to keep it from moving in the cradle.

I do plan on getting a new battery, but I want to ride the bike around for a few more weeks to make sure I am still enjoying it before I drop $700 on a new battery.

As for the charger I could plug it in the wall and meter off the dc jack and get one reading unplug it and plug it back into the wall and get a few volts lower. I ended up ordering this one for now.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Battery-motorcycle-Anderson-Connector/dp/B07S9FVFN4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=51.8V+ebike+Charger+51.8V%2F50V%2F52V+Li-ion+Battery+Charger+58.8V&qid=1566928349&s=gateway&sr=8-6


I was really tempted to get the Cycle Satiator. it looks awesome but like the battery I want to ride what I have for now before I drop any more money.

Something that might find handy to experment with. Your basic two wire motor can act like a genorator. Get a hobby motor of some kind perferbly with a gear on its out out shaft. An old cheap toy car motor works great for this.

Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Karlsson-Robotics-CECOMINOD023557-Hobby-Motor/dp/B00O46HNUG

If the wires are not hooked to anything you spin the end very easly. There is othing taking up the power you are genorating. It like a fan just sitting on your desk. Now try this, connect the two wire together. When you try to spin the end it will not spin that easy if at all. Shorting the wires simulates a very heavy electical load that the motor is trying to power. If you have access to some flash light bulbs or leds you can try powering them from the motor. The more you try to power the harder it is the spin the end of that motor.

How this applies to question of why your can't put a generator on your bike tire and get an more range it is because while you may be able to spin the generator freely with out a load when you put a load on it, it will have resistance. A bike light with modern LEDs would put a smaller amount of resitance you might barely notice it. A generator of useful size would cause a substantual resistance.

We can make use of the resistance though in regenertive braking. Instead of using the friction of brake pads as resistance we use the electical load of charging the battery back a small amout to slow down.

>I am much like you where without having an ebike, I wouldn't be riding a bike at all. Great intro, I enjoyed reading your post :)

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Thanks! Do you have any pictures of your rack/basket? I've got some bags and a milk crate I was looking to add once the rack for this bike comes back in stock.

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The seat is definitely a nice upgrade! (link in another comment above) and the mirrors I got are these: https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Universal-Hawk-eye-Motorcycle-Convex/dp/B06Y2RH6WG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=F0TXYRTSL7HF&keywords=motorcycle+mirrors&qid=1562001013&s=gateway&sprefix=1ft+usb%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3


Maybe a bit overkill for this, but I wasn't happy with the dinky ones typically used for bicycles. Bolts on just the same though, large field of view and good style

Agreed - they're my preferred on-bar mirror. Very stable view.

You have options for mounting with less width. E.g. it can work quite well to have the arms going down and then inboard.

Alternatively, the 2nd arm is optional - I had good results with just mounting the mirror to the first arm. It makes it less adjustable on the go, since the first arm's angle fixes one axis of the mirror, but that's ok.

Personally though, I've found I prefer a helmet mirror (Third Eye on the helmet shell works for me), but the Mirrycle is the best bar mirror IMO.

For rainy riding; full coverage fenders work the best. Something that hugs the tires fairly well. Something like this (just an example, I can't vouch for the product):

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Full-Fenders-Touring/dp/B00TQ43EXG/ref=asc_df_B00TQ43EXG/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293004696205&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18344359097057539491&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001133&hvtargid=pla-593788812954&psc=1

I have used some metal fenders from a cruiser bike and attached them to my frame.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNx8GtcmnFCqF_QV3QLETfgbZac1jtRl1i2cGSgmcE9OXs8rt4ztB8pAMg9KT2A5g?key=MkNwV3AzUElRVmEyd01RY0czWlVPUnNaUzlGeUln

Planet Bike Full bike fenders - 700c x 45mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQ43EXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hcPjDbBMB3HH7

Had to trim the front arms, and cut the mounting tab off the back. I used a zip tie for now, will secure it direct to the brake bridge when I eventually have the back wheel off.