(Part 2) Best products from r/electrical

Okay so technically you can run 100 Base-T on 4 wires, but I've never tried it personally. Anyway, if you get yourself a crimper and some RJ-45's then you could give it a shot. Pins 1,2,3, and 6 are what you need to land, just make sure both ends are the same color wise and that the crimp is good and tight and it might just work, but keep in mind it might not so don't count on it for sure.

Yeah I definitely don’t feel comfortable doing that. The closest I come to you is considering something like this. Would that have the same impact?
Home Energy Consumption Analyzer


I told my apartment complex maintenance guy if we can’t figure out what’s going on that I would like for them to have out an electrician to do an energy audit...but I don’t think I should be the one to have to pay for that. Then again I don’t know if I really have a leg to stand on to require them to do that.

Your best bet is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/EPBOWPT-Regulator-Converter-step-down-Waterproof/dp/B01KSSL8L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523248358&sr=8-1&keywords=golf+cart+inverter

Although a LED light may not have much pull, it's better to have any external things split between all of the batteries. If you ever want to hook up things in the future like a usb charger, additional lights, etc, you'll be ready to go with it.

One tip - use heat shrink or electrical tape on your soldered connections so they're not exposed and able to short. This sounds like a cool project. Good luck!

Edit: one more tip - that power supply isn't UL listed. If you buy one that is (like this one), it should be a little safer and potentially higher quality parts.

Thank you so much. I'm looking at the wiring diagrams in the instructions and trying to figure out how it was wired since it seems like it wasn't done right.


I didn't know that this fan has automatic humidity detection. Because it's tied to the light and the light is always on to use the shower, the fan is always on when the shower is going. I've not seen it stay on or turn back on when the switch is turned off, though, so I don't know if the humidity sensor is even doing anything.


I don't have the special Broan 68W wall switch. Like I posted initially, I have red and black wires attached to the load end of a regular single pole switch. I'm trying to figure out what the red wire and black wire are actually attached to based on this information you've given me and the behavior of the light and fan when I separated red and black.


From the wiring diagram, it looks like the Humidity Control has both an orange and brown wire. From the way I've described it, does this mean the red switch wire is connected to the orange wire of the Humidity Control and the black switch wire is connected to the light and to the brown of the Humidity Control? Or do I have it backwards?

Hey, thanks for the reply. I have been working on these all day and your advice has been incredibly useful. I found the socket type I need and am starting to think of how I will go about rewiring things. The original wiring was just 10 splices insulated by wirenuts.

Do these have the screw connections you recommended? If so do you have any links or more information on installing + using crimp terminals. I assume I would want a ring terminal?

Also what do you mean when you say insulated crimps? when i google 'insulated crimps' I get pictures of terminals and I'm not exactly sure how those would take the place of wire nuts.

Thanks for the help!

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU

Something like this will be what you need.

Input voltage will obviously be 120v you need the output to be 9-12vdc I believe is the working range of most LED strips. 12v most common. Output amperage for a 12" strip should not exceed 1A. As long as you cover those bases you should be good. If you get the stuff I'm more than happy to help build you a wiring diagram for a switch if you choose

I have some copper string lights similar to these, except that they take two 3v lithium batteries. They work just fine as such but they don't last long. I'd like to make them electrical instead. I don't have the tools of the trade, per se, but how could I can hook them up to something that can be plugged in? Thanks for your help. Abe for scale.

This is where I’m fuzzy about it. It’s a 12v strip that’s 16.4ft. I plan to cut it down to six so it’s 3ft up and 3ft back down. Does this change the voltage? What type of battery would be best for that, and how do I need to implement resistors? I don’t know very much so any help would be super appreciated. I’ll put the link right here.

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1550106168&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rgb+led+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=511DpqZdCCL&ref=plSrch

OK -- with a 3.2HP motor, that thing really will be drawing 2400W, and a dedicated 20A circuit is required. There are NEMA 5-20R to NEMA 5-15P adapters available, but use of those in this case would actually be hazardous, and you would definately blow fuses/trip breakers.

In location film, DJ, disaster-recovery contracting etc. people have temporary short-term needs for high-current circuits, and many do use dryer outlets with a "spider box" or a temporary power-center such as this one in order to have some dedicated temporary 20A 120V outlets when a dryer plug is available.

Often their in-house electricians will make one up from standard construction electrical parts that are cheaper in sum from a home center. I'm not sure I like this approach, as you really have to trust that whoever assembled it knew what they were doing.

I'd just buy one of those cheapo inverters claiming 150 watts. They do make at least 12" 12VDC fans though but I can't say how much air they push. I have the same problem when I'm on some kind of lift all day and I ended up buying some of these which actually throw good air on the highest setting but I have to run them from powerbanks.
I kinda feel like 2 of those pointed at you would work unless you have a really good spot picked out to put a much larger fan.

Your metal ducts will probably already be at the same potential voltage as ground if they are connected directly to the air handler, unless you have a noise isolation collar in between. It wouldn't hurt to bond anything though. You could take bonding jumper from the panel enclousure then jump between everthing you wanted to bond or install a wall mounted ground bus bar like this. If you went ground bus bar route, take a #4 ground wire from the ground bar inside the panel to the ground bus bar.

Here's some related code:

250.104(B) Other Metal Piping. If installed in, or attached to, a building or structure, a metal piping system(s), including gas piping, that is likely to become energized shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure; the grounded conductor at the service; the grounding electrode conductor, if of sufficient size; or to one or more grounding electrodes used. The bonding conductor(s) or jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with 250.122, using the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping system(s). The equipment grounding conductor for the circuit that is likely to energize the piping shall be permitted to serve as the bonding means. The points of attachment of the bonding jumper(s) shall be accessible.
Informational Note No. 1: Bonding all piping and metal air ducts within the premises will provide additional safety.

Thanks for the reply.

I've actually seen a few similar comments on the web that refer to these non-contact voltage testers as "widowmakers", or other derisive nicknames. Are they really that dangerous?

I bought my Klein based on the recommendation in this article on The Sweethome, "The Best Non-Contact Voltage Tester" (although I got the NCVT-2 instead of the 3). I did suspect the batteries at first, but I still got the same results after loading in a fresh set.

I do own this Sperry DM-2A Pocket Pro multimeter. Is this good enough for checking for live circuits, or do I also need the aforementioned Solenoid tester? Keep in mind that I am a simple homeowner who only needs to be able to do minor electrical tasks like this once or twice a year, without killing myself in the process.

You can buy adapters that can be a temporary solution till you move back to your place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00166TT3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420042081&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

These are 3 prong to 2 prong outlet adapters. To install them you take off the center screw on the outlet without taking off the face plate. Next plugin the adapter and a screw the small tab on them to the faceplate with the screw that was removed. If you have a good surge protector it should have an indicator light that tells you if you have a ground connection from the outlet with the adapter. Looks like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JE9LD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420042570&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40#immersive-view_1420042585566

If you dont feel comfortable doing this turn off the power before hand and make sure its off by using a volt meter or a small appliance.

Epoxy won't be conductive if you're buying regular epoxy. The stuff that is conductive is specifically labeled as such. Silver is a precious metal. They aren't going to add it to normal epoxy glue just for fun.

Compare these for an example:
MG Chemicals Silver Epoxy Adhesive - High Conductivity, 10 min working time, 14 g, Dual Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BDMJSY

Bob Smith Industries BSI-201 Clear Quik-Cure Epoxy (4.5 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFFD4

9V Battery Connector - 10 pack is like $2: https://www.amazon.com/IDS-Leather-Housing-Connector-Battery/dp/B06X8YZJ64/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6XX2Y4133WSNWNDHS5Q4