(Part 2) Best products from r/ender3

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

Ok!

So it's a late 2018 (December) Ender 3 Pro. I got it from Mech Solutions. They have been super helpful with some warranty stuff. (Magnetic bed delaminated and heat break/throat tube was broken.) https://www.mechestore.com/collections/ender-3-pro

Galactic Empire gears here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3422334 (I remixed this one!)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3005278

The braided cable stuff is from Amazon, here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071WF5NTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought three sizes, 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4". I hated the Pi camera cable, luckily it fits perfectly in the 1/2" stuff. I found uses for all three sizes in different locations. The 1/4" looks cool on the bowden tube. I used heat shrink (or electrical tape) at the ends.

Hotend cooler is Hero Me with a velocity stack (stack purely for my own entertainment)
Hero Me: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917 - I used the stock 4010 blower version in the end. I was going to do the dual 5015 mod but the two Amazon fans I got were both defective.
Fan is a Noctua 4020 - from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071W93333/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note - I added a 12v system running in parallel with the OEM 24v Ender system - more below
Velocity stack:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2211780

Someone spotted it, on the left I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ running OctoPi (Octoprint):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BD3WHCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a 3.5" touchscreen TFT LCD:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07KLDKM5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a Pi compatible camera:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0759GYR51/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with longer cables:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DNYM8KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The camera needed a mount:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101
and an off-brand sleeve:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994762

The Pi needed a mount too, and I found one I love that just happened to fit the screen I bought:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2530258
** user note - this thing is massive, and tricky to print. Worth it, though.

OH. THIS IS A MUST:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2943218 xD

All metal extruder, conveniently in red, from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JVJWC5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note: if nothing else, do this upgrade. This, and the one just above it. Mine was under extruding, and I poured hours into trying to calibrate/test/bla bla bla... it ended up being a broken heat break and crappy plastic extruder.

Filament guide (top rail)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003807
At extruder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303562

Z-Axis bar cable management:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761965
** user note: this is one of my favorites!!!!! I covered it in LEDs, white for the bed, and red for the wall/bowden tube!

Ok, so, something that made getting good fans difficult is the Ender 3 uses 24v fans (except the power suppy, it uses a 12v fan. Bonus.)
To get some 12v power, I used a buck converter to step 24v down to 12v from here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FQH4M82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and basically I run all the fun stuff off it.
JST and XT60 connectors are all from www.hobbyking.com. Same with 22AWG three wire servo wire, super handy. I already had this stuff kicking around, but hobbyking is good if you need this stuff.
The PSU has some open ports, I added another XT60 cable with 24v service. I made it the same as the OEM, and they are backwards compatible and nothing will fry. One of them goes to my buck converter, the other to the Ender main board.
** tech note: I used a 3.5A BEC from hobbyking to power the Pi, off the 12v side of the buck converter. I ended up cutting the power supply cable that came with the Pi (and added JST connectors to the whole thing so I could reuse it one day.) The BEC steps the voltage down to 5.1v from 12v. 3.5A has been plenty. I think it might use .8A with my giant RGB keyboard plugged into it.

This is super worth it, a must do. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8

Oh, the nice little platform the buck converter and Pi cooling fan is sitting on is this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539545

more below: (above?)

I have 22 spools of filament lying about and 4 more arriving today. Of those I think 6 of them are Solutech. While I have some problems with the color in a couple of cases, I've never had any issues with getting them to print. Only filament I have that prints better is the Amolen stuff, but it's expensive.

Your under extrusion issue is one that I've been fighting for two months now. I would get a couple of good prints, then would load a different filament and get the under extruded layers that look just like the ones you're getting. Finally got to the bottom of the problem a couple of days ago.

Try this as an experiment. Pick out a model with a large flat surface like this and print it with a raft. If you're having the issue I was then you'll see diagonal bands of under extrusion, with the bands getting wider as you print larger parts.

I discovered that there was a lot of play in the spring that applies tension to the extruder pinion and when I changed filaments it would change position. No amount of adjustment to the screw that holds it would give me consistent results. I installed this improved all metal version of the extruder from Creality and those went away entirely. Print quality now is at least as good, and maybe better, than I'm getting off of my Tornado and that's saying a lot.

Project for the holiday weekend is to install the BLTouch, and I'll probably swap the extruder out again for the same Titan clone that my Tornado has. If that didn't require a firmware change I probably would have installed it instead of the Creality one. I like the Titan design a lot better.

Good luck and have a wonderful holiday!

Dude, you're spending way too much time and effort on a fan, just buy a new one, they are cheap and will be much better in the long run, just make sure you buy a 24 volt one.

All the stock fans will need to be replaced after a short while on the ender 3, they are cheaply made and are not designed to last very long at all. I'm pretty sure the stock fans that come with the ender 3 don't even use a real metal bearing, it's just plastic, that's never going to last.

Here, 8 measly bucks, cheaper than a meal at a fast food restaurant

here's the part cooling fan, however this thing is pretty cheap too so it wont last very long


I would strongly recommend to skip buying the parts cooling fan and print yourself out a pets fang or something simmilar that uses the 5015 parts cooling fan.


Just like PC cooling fans, these types of fans are not ment to be taken apart, soon as you bend back the plastic that holds the fan blades in the housing it will never be right again. Small fans like this are ment to be replaced, not repaired.


You might as well get used to upgrading parts as they break now, because I guarantee this wont be the last time.


You bought a budget printer, it's a budget printer for a reason, every part that came with it was sourced from the cheapest most cost effective options available on the market. Some people are lucky and manage to get a lot of life from the stock parts, others not so lucky and will probably end up upgrading every part on the machine except for the frame itself.

Here is my Hotend setup

• I decided to run with the V6 Heavy Duty Mount. Had to use the "alt" version for the EZABL wing and flip it in my slicer to get it on the left side. The "alt" version makes it so it won't hit the gantry. The offsets are in the Thingiverse description that you will update with the "CUSTOM_PROBE" setting in the TH3D firmware you will have to update.
  
  
• For my parts fans, I wanted something highly reviewed, well priced and rated high. These 5015 fans come in a 2-pack for really good price and seem to be the best reviewed on Amazon. I went with them and noticed no whining or issues. No matter what, you will have a louder sound with blower fans (but not horrible, even with 2).
  
  
• For the hotend fan, I went with the Noctua 40mm x 20mm version (12v but Ender runs on 24v. Need a buck converter as described below). Sure, it's a bit pricier but it's quiet and pushes air enough to cool. Noctua has a great 6 year warranty on it and I'm sure the crappy chinese fans will have to be purchased multiple times within the same period, making it the same cost. Just make sure to get the PWM version instead of the FLX. No worries about cutting the cable because it comes with adaptors you can cut.
  
  If you decide to go with a regular 24v fan, you won't need the buck converter I talk about below.
  
  Unless you have a multimeter and want to mess around with getting the voltage right (which isn't hard), grab a buck converter like this with a display and hook up the 40mm fan to it. The little gold screw is for adjusting the voltage. If you run with the Noctua I mentioned above, you will have to set that to roughly 12v.
  
  Sooooooooo
  
  With all that being said, just splice all the wires and solder them or attach connectors that run from the fans to the wires. You are essentially replacing the fans with the same wires from the new fans. It's a pretty easy process. I want to say you definitely should plan out how you want to organize everything beforehand. Zipties are great. If you use the buck converter because you need 12v, the input side and output side are labeled on the converter so pay attention to that.
  

I have a similar type of glass bed (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJ9WKRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my CE3Pro and this brand of glass has poor adhesion - period. I call it 'black ice'. The other mods on the list are also similar to mine, with the exception that I've added an upgraded vent ring for the cooling fan (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3343456). For quite a while I used blue painters tape and it seemd to work in the beginning, but I had some issues with warpage/shrinkage, air bubbles, tears, seam lines and typical tape things.

Lately I switched to brushing on Elmers liquid disappearing purple school glue, which is a PVA based glue (https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Liquid-5-Ounces/dp/B01NCQAFGD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=287FNHW09Q8D1&keywords=elmers+disappearing+purple+liquid+school+glue&qid=1572698053&sprefix=elmers+liquid+purple%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-1). 5 oz of it costs less then $3 at Walmart. There is an Amazon branded version of the glue also, but I haven't tested it. It works much better then the tape as I have absolutely no issues with it at all. I'm getting those 'near two thousand dollar printer quality prints' now that I read about all the time that the CE3 is capable of. I put on just enough to cover the area that I'm printing on and a little goes a long way. It's generally good for about 2 or 3 prints. It's washable, so it's easy to clean and reapply when needed. Some people use the glue stick version, but there are complaints about that somewhat 'globbing' on and being less evenly distributed on the bed.

I basically consider the glass to be a good starting point for getting a good basic level bed surface as compared to trusting that the build plate is true. One of these days I plan to try out a PEI sheet (on top of the glass). Many claim it's the absolute best, but for my budget at this time, it's too deep for my pockets at $15 a sheet.

Yeah, that totally blows. Do you have the glass bed?

I do. Here's what works for me and I've never damaged a print in the process.

1. Buy a better removal tool. The tool that ships with the Ender is a steaming pile of crap. I recommend this one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B
   
   It's actually a set of two tools. The longer tool will rock your world! Ok, perhaps I'm overselling it a bit, but it's amazing. Unfortunately, the shorter tool sucks rocks.
   
   
2. A tiny spritz of alcohol (buy a cheapo spray bottle) along one edge of your print will magically loosen it up a bit, regardless of the current bed temperature.
   
   
3. Finally, combine 1) and 2) with one last top secret ingredient. Position the tool at just the right angle (you'll figure it out) and tap the end of it with your favorite, nearby, solid object. In my case, that's a hairbrush. Your's might be, for example, a piece of last night's rock-hard leftover pizza. In any case, with a tap or two, you should be good to go.
   
   Good luck and happy printing!

It's generally better to use it stock and upgrade as you discover the need to.

The only (purchased) upgrade you really need from the get go is [better bed springs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KF9LZ2L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The stock ones are terrible at maintaining the bed at level. If the bed it comes with is warped, then also a glass bed, but that's the only reason you would need one. Mine wasn't warped and it's just fine. After that, aluminum extruder because the plastic one will start to wear eventually, and capricorn tubing.

A Pi, auto leveling, new electronics, micro swiss are all much more in the "luxury" upgrade category in my opinion. I don't have any of those and I don't feel any particular need to after three months of having the printer.

Make sure you also look into what's called "luke's hotend fix." I struggled with an underextrusion goblin for a while until I did that and upgraded to an aluminum extruder and capricorn tubing. Goblin banished.

I recommend also getting some calipers, though they're not necessary, and a set of feeler gauges has made bed leveling easier and more consistent than using a sheet of paper.

edit: I misread and thought you were trying to save money. Anyway, I still recommend using it mostly stock for a while to get familiar with it before upgrading a bunch of stuff. Out of those, after bed springs, extruder assembly and tubing I'd probably go for the electronics and hotend since bed leveling comes pretty easy to me now.

Borosilicate Glass Bed is absolutely worth it. Even when you wait for your bed to cool after printing (you should) you'll struggle removing parts with Ender 3 print surface. With that borosilicate glass, you'll get a perfectly flat surface that will release parts easily after cooling.

The line down the left hand side is now defaulted in the Cura 3.5.x printer profile. You can modify the start and end gcode under Settings > Printer > Manage Printer. The cura folks adapted it from another person who posted it on Youtube and then modified it to improve it a bit. For instance it now starts both bed and the element at the same time.

Finally, Cura 3.5.1, while supposedly fixing the Ender 3 Printer Profile, is still pretty shakey. It doesn't seem to render good gcode. I've switched back to 3.4.1... more of a PSA than resposne to your question.

I've heard of people having good results with thermal pads like this. Maybe something to try as a less messy but similar functioning alternative. Also easier to get consistent even coverage id imagine. Personally I've never had any issues with heat transfer to my glass so never really bothered. But maybe I could get better results if I did. Wouldn't be able to clean the glass in the sink as easily though as I don't think these are meant to be removed and reapplied repeatedly.

You are not doing something right ... the buck converter ... if you put in 24v and step it down to 12v you are theoretically doubling the available current... but just because the voltage drops doesn't mean you actually are pushing that current... the fan draws what it needs at 12v based on its internal resistance ... it is typically a tiny draw...

​

These are way overkill for what you are doing but they make it clear what is going on and you can set a max current limit and the voltage without needing a meter.... for static things like the fan you are doing the simpler version should work just fine.... I use one of these with a much larger blower type fan so I can adjust speed with the push of a button...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FL6PBZF

I actually meant to include that, I'm sorry. I bought the sample packs from Gizmo Dorks on Amazon.

Here's the one that includes the "orange":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX

They all seem to print pretty well, and I like the colors. They're also a pretty affordable way to get a variety of colors. I also have their packs with the black, clear, grey, and white, and another with marble, glitter, glow in the dark, and color changing. I've been meaning to see if the make one with the cool metallic silk colors...

Unfortunately I can't say myself what printing with bad filament will do to your overall print as I have never had any go that far. Got worried with one but it still prints just fine. Maybe someone can chime in with that brand, or you should look up what others say about that brand. Seems like things arent quite right with it though. I'd suggest buying a different brand and try that out to see if it performs better. It's possible that you got a bad spool straight out of the gate. I'd personally suggest the hatchbox brand $20 for 1kg spool on amazon. And they seem to be pretty highly recommended across the board. Always got really good prints on mine with hatchbox so long as my settings were right.

I LOVE MY ENDER 3'S. I have one running stock everything (except the bed) and the other is well, an ender 3 in name only now. (I know you mentioned you are in the EU, but I have provided links to my sources for US based distributors)

Printer setup:

Ender 3

MKS (MKS GEN L V1.0)

TMC (2208's)

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend ( MS all metal )

Custom Modified heater block (installed 300°c heater cartridge and 450°c capable thermistor from slice engineering) (heater) & (thermistor)

Bantamfeeder Extruder ( bantam design ) ... will be changing this out soon when I decide what next. Works well just not my cup of tea for convenience purposes.

Bullseye Duct ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439)

3-point bed conversion for leveling made easy (Leveling guide and 3 point leveling adapter). HERE IS A COMPLETED DESIGN OF THESE CHANGES( My bed setup ... < < < this is my stock ender 3)

Borosilicate glass bed w/ PEI (Glass bed & PEI Sheet)

PSU (Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt)

​

OCTOPRINT SERVER

RPI 3b+ (raspberry pi w/ octoprint)

Pi Cam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

So now you see why I say not really an ender 3 anymore, only in name

Have a look at the bulldog extruder. It has a much higher clamping force on the filament. It does require you to have Marlin or T3HD firmware installed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDSHVCN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It just works. There are a few gotchas that can be quickly resolved.

• The extruder turns in the opposite direction. It is nice that it removes the need for filament guides, but it does require you to modify configuration.h in the firmware. Toggle INVERT_E0_DIR
  
  
• Get a M3 bolt package. You will need at least 4 that are 16mm long. I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714FLXND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as I am sure I will use them at some point.
  
  
• Prevent filament from getting wound in the extruder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3121836
  This should also allow you to easily print TPU
  
  
• Replace the cabling attachment. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243464

I installed my glass bed and this shit happens

This was 2 print attempts of this thing

Not sure what is going on with this damn thing, but I installed the glass bed last night, leveled it using a piece of paper on all 4 corners and 2 different spots in the center. (a little resistance between nozzle and bed with a piece of paper between them) and when it starts printing, everything looks good. I walk away and come back to a bed full of spaghetti.

Settings:

Nozzle - 200 deg

Bed - 60 deg

Cooling fan - 0 first few layers, full speed after

Speed - 100 (Cura is set to 80mm/s)


Filament:

grey 3D Hero PLA Filament 1.75mm

Thanks for the detailed reply.

​

I need to read more to understand the z switch and z screws you are referring to. I have no idea what those are. I assembled by watching some channel on youtube do it. It was like a tales from the crypt vibe channel.

​

As much as it sucks, I probably need to completely disassemble it and start over. There has to be something done incorrectly for it to be this difficult. I am definitely going to get one of those gauges before I get back into. I returned the springs today and ordered different springs on amazon. When they get here, I might sit down one night and try again.

​

As for the bed, the glass one I got was scratched to hell from those stupid springs. I didn't know I had to raise or lower whatever switch you were talking about. Like I said earlier, I already ordered a SD card reader so that will be a definite mod. As for the octopi, is there a list somewhere on this subreddit of everything you need to purchase before starting? I have a raspberry pi at the house. I originally bought it to build a retropie but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I could use it for the printer if needed. I really like the idea of remote printing, having a webcam to see the print live, and putting a part on there that stops the print if there is a filament issue.

​

I have to go into the city tomorrow so I was thinking of stopping by ikea and getting some Lack Tables for the eventual enclosure but now I don't know if I am even going to keep the Ender 3. I am debating on returning it and moving up a tier. I really want to get started on this but it seems like I am never going to be able to print any of this awesome stuff. So many awesome files on thingiverse and I can't use any of them.....

​

Here are the parts I have purchased so far....

​

SD Card Extension

​

Glass Bed

​

Springs that I bought that would not lower bed enough

​

Most Recent Springs I am going to try

​

Metal Extruder Upgrade

​

Filament Black and Red

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J041Cb6HXVCWF


Multipurpose Grease, XHP 222 SPECIAL, 14.1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VGEEM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v441CbAQWR8KJ


Any grease is better than none. It’s also helps quality. I use mobile grease, left over from my CNC repair days. One tube is a lifetime supply for the little you need, use a Q-Tip and apply a thin coat all the way up, Run your Z-axis all the way up and down, and apply a little every month. I use a old medication bottle to keep a small supply next to my machine. Keep the Q-tip in the bottle. When the grease turns a dirty white, just wipe away the extra and reapply. Do not use oil, that makes a mess and disappears. If you need to clean the Z axis rod and bearing, use mineral sprits on a clean rag and wipe it clean and dry, add new grease.

If you want a few rolls of different colors this is a pretty good deal, 23 bucks for 4 colors... Downside is you get 800g instead of 1000g for the money. Still good if you want multiple colors without breaking the bank 👍 I've had real good luck with this brand

Gizmo Dorks PLA Filament for 3D Printers 1.75mm 200g, 4 Color Pack - Blue, Green, Orange, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AbKjDbY1A0WKD

Yes of course :)

Black PLA:
• HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Nn0Db9E2TV4N
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGY2JP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPn0DbA5MFBZS


White PLA:
•HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GMMP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IOn0Db4BZ8QWH
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGZNM34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LRn0Db62EBRN2

Here's the aluminum extruder assembly. The plastic one that comes on the printer WILL break. It's just a matter of time. They crack from stress after a while and even before that they creep and you'll start getting missed extrusion.

Here's the stiffer bed springs. You won't have to compress these as much to get a good stiffness.

Another really popular upgrade is this glass build plate. It has a special coating that makes it so parts stick without adhesive, and it leaves a really smooth surface on your prints. Parts stick really well then when it cools down they self-release.

The 3 upgrades I linked are extremely popular upgrades. You can get by without the glass bed, it's just an option because the stock bed will wear out eventually.

Yeah, that tube is toast. Try pulling the tube down through the coupler, as there is a huge bulge at the bottom... Though you've probably already tried that.

I would recommend all new couplers while you're at it. If you're on the stock couplers, they are pretty much crap.

If you don't have a length of tubing to replace it, I would recommend this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PS3NH82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a full meter of tubing, two complete sets of couplers, a tube cutter and clips.

If you don't need the tubing, the couplers can be had for a few bucks.

Sure thing. I got 2 of these 40mm FLX for the hotend and electronics box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HOlODbHSE71M2 and one 60mm FLX for the PSU. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQMESS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eRlODbEZJZ1TK last but not least I ordered this pack of 5015s for the part cooling fan. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WFKPLWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cSlODb030FK1T Make sure it's the 24v quiet versions as well as these are dual ball bearing fans as opposed to other cheaper fans. While my printer is running I cant hear any of these fans at all.

I bought these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755BY9RH/

I originally printed a Petsfang, but I switched to a dual fan Hero Me.

I haven't seen these mentioned in this sub before, but I ordered a couple Gizmo Dorks packs from Amazon when I first got my Ender 3 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W2TNKB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's a little more expensive by weight, but it's a good way to get a bunch of different colors.

I like the magnet surface that comes with the pro, I haven't had any issues with parts sticking.

I also ordered the aluminum kit you did, and I also ordered some replacement springs for the bed. I'm planning on installing them this weekend.

interestingly.. ive only had issues since using a new PLA ..there were some good reviews for it.. then i looked at the 1 star review left for it !!

i note other reviewers had clogging issues too :l

https://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B078G94357/ref=acr_dp_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078G94357/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah. Rather than a fan it's a blower. So far more airflow to hot end and nozzle. Make sure if you buy them you get the right ones. You want the 24v ones to match your power supply.

SoundOriginal 24V DC Brushless Blower Cooling Fan 50x50x15mm,for 3D Printer Humidifier Aromatherapy and Other Small Appliances Series Repair Replacement (2pcs 24V)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0755BY9RH/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MOdDCb1X4BW4E

I found this metal replacement for $11 on amazon when I had this issue a few weeks ago, such great value

CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NzsODb9EGYASC

This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG

screw set.

Probably could use either. The recommended ones fit right into the heat sink fan, another set might sit over the fan and need to be a little longer?
Above is a simple kit.

It looks like the extruder arm may be squeaking the filament against the extruder wheel so tight it is causing skipped steps and filament to wear off on the wheel.

I bit the bullet and got an aluminum extruder arm kit from amazon - CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kCaPCbF0AF0C3 - and have had good luck and no more skipped steps since changing.

The pro has a different bed surface, a neat magnetic one they sell by itself for around 18$ on amazon, an upgraded power supply that runs around 30$ on amazon, and a beefier Y axis bar. 40x40 instead of 20x40. The electronics area is inverted making a small fan cover print not needed. This is about all there is different from the regular ender 3.

Considering the two interesting parts are under 50$, I don't think it's worth going for the pro vs just getting those two parts yourself and upgrading.

Neither the ender 3 nor the pro have a bootloader, so be sure to add a tinyisp programmer to your aliexpress order.

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

• Some superlube for bearings/z-rod/etc
  
• Ferrules & crimp (great if you want to swap boards and have 'proper' cabling)
  
• A heavier duty 'get off the damn bed' thingy
  
• Reusable cable ties (save the ocean or some shit)
  
• Deburr tool
  
• M2/M3/M4 bolt set with T-nuts (great if you want to print some add-ons that attach to the extrusions)
  
• Different bed surfaces if you want to experiment
  
• Microfiber cloths for cleaning things
  
• Tooth brush and some orange cleaner for cleaning up that z-rod
  
• LED lightbar or some other form of lighting
  
• Extra hot end socks, nozzles, thermistors, heating elements (better to have one or two on hand then wait a while!)
  
• 14/12 awg silicone wire for mains connection (great with spades & ferrules!)
  
• Soldering iron, cabling, heatshrink (if you want to swap fans or do any other wire splicing activities)
  
• Ball bearing 4010 fans (or 4020, or whatever size you mod to - IMO go for 24v and avoid noctua/buck converter shenanigans)

Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4

Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15

There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.

It's most likely your PTFE tubing. I recommend you get this here: https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Capricorn-Filament-Upgraded-Pneumatic/dp/B07PS3NH82

I just installed it and my prints are beautiful.
https://i.imgur.com/EhRSqPF.jpg

+1... This is a WIN

1. Small mistakes make great lessons.
   
2. Still usable to print 75% as wide as the print bed, at least
   
3. Instant excuse to drop $30 on a glass bed. I got this one: Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender3- 4mm thick

Upgrade your bed springs: https://smile.amazon.com/Adiyer-Compression-Springs-Printer-Leveling/dp/B07KF9LZ2L/

In my opinion, this is the MOST necessary modification to do on any Ender 3. The springs that come with it are trash, and your bed will constantly shift up or down unless you get better springs. I haven't had to re-level my bed using paper in months.

I'd stick with the glass bed if I were you, it really helps if your bed is warped (which it probably is, judging by your first pic). Just from looking, it seems like your nozzle is too close on that second pic. If you're using a piece of paper to level, make sure to check the nozzle height at locations all over the bed, not just on the edge or the center (although the center is probably the most important spot).

Also, just a reminder to clean your bed with alcohol often. The Creality glass bed can be VERY sticky if clean, so it's actually pretty forgiving on that first layer. Your nozzle can be slightly farther away than it should be, but it will still adhere fine. But if the bed is dirty you'll have a lot of trouble.

Honestly I would suggest getting the upgraded motors instead of the dampeners. They will be much quieter and give you better performance. For the bed I got this:
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Get a all metal extruder top like this: https://smile.amazon.com/3D-Extruder-Aluminum-Filament-Creality/dp/B07B96QMN2

If you don't mind spending, consider just moving over to a direct drive setup like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omXgJT5V0D4

A genuine microswiss, sure https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=pd_cp_328_1/135-5486205-8497053?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0789V2D7C&pd_rd_r=e8b874f2-aefe-4408-a022-6a0c0272998d&pd_rd_w=RcLct&pd_rd_wg=Ravoy&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=A9ZWV06R064NQD1A9VDT&psc=1&refRID=A9ZWV06R064NQD1A9VDT

But when it comes to clones, trianglelab is the only company that makes them as good or very close to the real thing.

I got this one and it is working out great!

So far I have printed PLA and PETG.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Glass Bed

Here's the extruder I bought

And here's the bowden tubing and connectors

There's a lot of similar items on Amazon that will work; I just personally went after the popular ones with the highest reviews

Also, if you get the tubing, don't forget to get cutters if you don't have any already

I bought this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013ETVO12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately, as soon as I powered it on, the RFI was back. No change. I'll keep the PSU since it's supposed to be better quality than the original, but it is thinner than the original and needs a different box. I tried printing one from TH3D but it was slightly too narrow and it cracked when I tried to put it on. Oh well.

So if the PSU isn't the culprit, my next guess was the fans. So I opened the electronics bay and disconnected them. No change.

So, either it's the board itself (1.1.5 silent), or the steppers?

Has anyone else seen RFI?

This is the bed that I got.

Change out your springs first because that bed has an adhesive backing that would make it hard to get to the screws after.

SainSmart ships the bed liner loose with clips, so you don't have to worry about removing it. After you have your springs replaced, just clean the bed surface with Isopropyl alcohol before you stick the glass bed on.

Later down the line, if you want to get into printing things like ABS, you can get a bed insulation pad that attaches to the bottom, to keep that bed heat stable.

This stuff? https://www.amazon.com/FBApayipa-400mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549200321&sr=8-3&keywords=Silicone+cpu+pad


Seems really thin, may not bridge the gap based on how mine is warped, still good?

The brass fitting is very important. Your only option if you absolutely can't wait is supergluing your fitting in the hole, but then the seller absolutely won't send you a replacement part. Luckily, replacements aren't expensive, and you can even buy a MK8 metal extruder frame which, honestly, you should do anyway as the plastic one is the absolute worst and likely the first part of your printer that will break

Put a silicone sheet between the bed and the glass it will hold the glass in place and will conduct heat to the glass more effectively and evenly.

I ordered all of it on amazon. I got the dotbit bmg clone, although the triangle labs was recommended more, and the pancake stepper from stepper online via amazon. The direct drive kit I got was the basaraba dd upgrade kit. To attach a bmg style extruder to this kit, you’ll need a printed or machined adapter. I managed to have a connection and got someone to machine a mount for mine specifically

Stepper: STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Bipolar Stepper Motor 0.7A 13Ncm (18.4oz.in) 17HS10-0704S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LESPDCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aeAWDbHDJ8A49

Bmg clone:

3D Printer Bowden Extruder,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6X7DKL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrade Kit, Compatible with Creality Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro, no firmware Modification Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9S9KNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rfAWDbZQWTYK1

It’s important to put the spacer in this dd kit in between the motor and bmg clone as the motor shaft will push against the outer shell of the extruder, and cause a lot of issues.

I also am using a microswiss hotend

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/lots-mirror-39151700/
Paired with

ZUPAYIPA 400mm x 210mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RhnPCb2H53BAM


That's my favorite change yet.

Here is a good kit


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PS3NH82/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_dK00DbAK3612M

I bought a Mean Well from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013ETVO12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I actually put a silicone thermal pad in between the heated bed and the glass plate. This seems to minimize warping of the heated bed influencing the flatness of the glass plate, and it also allows the glass plate to heat a little faster. If you don't want that, I'd just recommend putting the glass directly onto the heated bed.

I had the exact same problem with mine as well. Swapped out to an all metal extruded with a stronger spring.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2

You’re fine.
Just order a silicone GPU pad, and put it under a glass bed.

ZUPAYIPA 400mm x 210mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZsiZCbH0H643R

These are the fans I bought to use on my Petsfang. 24 volt for direct wire in. May be something better, but these work.

Sorry about that.

https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-50x50x15mm-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Replacement/dp/B0755BY9RH

I started with a spool of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0ECR5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2B2P5SB0R7B5R&keywords=hatchbox+pla+1.75&qid=1573968481&sprefix=hatchbox%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00J0GMMP6/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2B2P5SB0R7B5R&keywords=hatchbox+pla+1.75&qid=1573968517&sprefix=hatchbox%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-7

​

Would either of these work?

I use zero!

​

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HGKR1/

I don't know about fans. I bought this and this and then designed and printed this to mount them on, but they won't work on the stock Ender 3.

Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mods:

Ended 3 official 1.1.5 from here. All mainboard settings are stock.

Aluminum extruded from here.

Capricorn tubing from here.

Cura 4.1 on Linux

Filament at 210 on hotend, 60 on bed.

here you go

Underextrusion. I had that same issue until I upgraded to an all metal extruder and calibrated my extruder.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3gR-Bb0NTY89V

It's a glass bed, this one specifically:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zriNDbXHEVSEN

Replace the Bowden pneumatic clamps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TTWWN1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_uweXCbDCRQK7D

Capricorn Bowden tube

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B67GG75/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_VyeXCbA0WGRWQ

Springs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KF9LZ2L/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_zBeXCbD24BJN2

I bought this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PS3NH82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have had mine for 3 months and I only replace things when they break. I now have replaced my Bowden tube and couplers with a capercorn tube and metal couplers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PS3NH82/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_GltDDb67XDCT1
Then my extruder broke had to replace it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QHBNYD9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KmtDDb9WPKV3T
Also a glass bed just cuz also get a bunch of .4 tips cuz you don't want to mess with cleaning or a degraded hole when you are already replacing stuff. But that was all in the little time I have had it. I maybe have done 50 prints. Although some had tons of parts.
No fan shrowd or fan replacements yet....... I am running basic cuz I am new to this but I learned a ton in the short time doing this.

I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xMgsDbWPWZ891

The spring that came with it was too weak and so filament was slipping.

Got my printer in Jan, so still pretty new. I started having the same issue after doing a really long print. After messing with it for a few days and not getting anywhere I ended up replacing the entire extruder block with an all metal one. (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B96QMN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I feel like getting that gear off is going to be important, not sure i can give any advice as to how to get that off the motor shaft, but you will need to remove the gear to replace the block.

I understand, sorry hard to stand in your shoes and tell you what to do. Depends if you want to take the risk. You could attempt to at least get the difference of $20 back, because they sent you the cheaper option (and you can prove that with pictures)

Worst case, I see the power supply is around $30 on Amazon.com, not too bad