(Part 2) Best products from r/finishing

After finishing the contents of the jar: Fillets of Anchovies 8.1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F7T49W, this is what I use.

The stoploss bags have a small nozzle, so it is easy to remove all the air. But useless for practical use when applying.

I use Epifanes Marine spar varnish for all my fine casework. It’s a nice old school phenolic varnish/Tung oil blend. But it needs to be cut 50/50 with thinner to be used as a wiping varnish. At the same time, it skins over and starts to gel fairly quickly. So I dispense what I need from the bag into the jar and mix. With the flip-top jar, easy to get a rag in while applying but seals ok between coats.

I'd need to see the piece in person to decide if it was a wood veneer or just a picture of wood before I advised doing anything more drastic than polishing the existing surface.

That said, pick yourself up a tin of this or this or any other clear paste wax and rub it into the damage well before doing the whole box. Hopefully that makes it acceptable.

Thank you! Table is from amazon (risky purchase) but it’s really well built and real wood. I’ll send the link in a minute.

Florence Round Pedestal Dining Table Rustic Smoke https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2P99FQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oT0UCbBHDE287

The chemical paint removers might actually be safer too. Old woodwork is likely to have lead paint on it. Sanding will turn it into dust that can be inhaled and will settle throughout the flat.

To get the best results with stripper buy a shavehook set like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-620-1450-Shavehook-Blades/dp/B0012XP6ZS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468860049&sr=8-2&keywords=shavehook+set

There are cheaper ones available but this is a high quality tool.

No. It would just spatter little droplets on the wood and make a mess. A spray bottle doesn't atomize the finish. A spray gun does if the pressure is high enough. A spray gun shouldn't be a pain... can your compressor handle the CFM requirements of the gun? Check out turbine HVLP systems. It is the same gravity fed spray gun you would use with the compressor, but with a turbine to continually make air instead. It will set you back some $$$, but they are great. You don't need a compressor. Those airless sprayers are really more for thick house paint, since they don't atomize the finish. Atomizing the finish is a must for getting it to flow out nicely and not splatter and orangepeel.

chec the Fuji HVLP out. It is not professional but it is better than the homegamer stuff.

You can go two ways here, especially using the Doug fir. Personally i would use a tinted gel stain ( they come in every color imaginable, just Google -fu) and then tung oil for a beautiful durable finish. Tung oil is highly underrated and and under used, IMHO. Hi can make the lowest grade lumber finish out like high end furniture with sanding and those products.

If you are set on the latex paint, use de-waxed shellac. Here is a link-
https://www.amazon.com/1-Quart-Zinsser-Bullseye-SealCoat/dp/B001DT6TFC#

sure thing, here is a picture of the print itself. This is the ink that was used. The print is on a lid to a box as well

I would suggest sanding carefully with 600 grit and/or scuffing with gray scotchbrite in the tight areas, making sure there are no shiny spots. Then you can airbrush or spray an orange candy similar to House of Kolor or Kosmic candy and then re-clear with polyurethane clear. wet sand and buff in standard automotive refinishing fashion.

How does it look without the grille cover? If your room is modern or whatever, then perhaps paint the wood black or a solid color with a dark gel stain like General Finishes Java.

Not a name brand, just 100% with no additives.

I bought Hope brand Tung oil for around ~$12 of Amazon.

Amazon Tung Oil

If you want the piece of wood to have a shine or gloss to it, you'll need to sand to 600ish grit. Tung oil won't give much shine at all.

You need to use a specific butcher block oil/conditioner to ensure you are treating t with something good safe. Howard BBC012 Butcher Block Conditioner, 12-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0ojDbY5KFKHZ

One more vote for india ink. I've used it on red oak before and it turns completely jet black with the texture of the grain still visible but without any color variation.

If you want solid black no stain even comes close to india ink. It is also cheap and doesn't smell toxic. This is the one I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IGK1OI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I would get some india ink and try it out on a few scrap pieces of different woods. I suspect you'll find that you don't need to use a wood as expensive as walnut to get the result you are looking for - any inexpensive hardwood like oak should work just fine.

I can do that. I bought the steel wool and used some with the wax/oil mixture like the instructions suggested to get rid of steam stains. It kinda worked but it also kind of sanded it down and made the color lighter. Also the wax seems to have made part of the wood darker. I’m wondering if I should just bit the bullet and sand it or strip it and stain it then seal it.

Not super cheap but a legit option:

This can works well.

It's also important to understand why rags catch fire. It is a chemical reaction so even if it is cold in your shop they can catch fire.

A clothesline with clothespins is another great budget option.

Once they have cured off/dried hard they can go the regular trash without concern.

Hi everyone,

I'm working on a tabletop made from birch. I sanded it from 80-120-220, raised the grain, and lightly sanded it with 320-grit sandpaper by hand. After each coat of polyurethane (I waited 3-4 hours between each coat) I sanded it lightly with 320-grit and removed all of the dust.

I did a 7th coat last night, and the lines are still there. What am I doing wrong, and is there a way to fix it?

This is the polyurethane I used.

Would India ink work?

Minwax 33060000 Fast-Drying Polyurethane Aerosol, 11.5 ounce, Satin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PNXU52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SvQRzb1WM6T5C

So then, do your gel stain, let that dry for a day. Get a can of shellac and put on a coat of that. Let it dry for an hour or so, then 3-4 coats of a wipe on poly and you should be set

https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-Crystals-Cleaning-Removal-Remover/dp/B0793F89NT/