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If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

> This is what I was talking about:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524798079&sr=8-3&keywords=eyelet+kit
>
> I feel like enough of those, along with some good paracord and a properly anchored hook, would do the job

Interesting thank you!! That just may do it :D I wish they said what the grommets were made of (am thinking that if they're a weak tin that they'd break easier), though if I order that and have 100 grommets I could literally put like 20 on the thing and use paracord (I've got some on-hand that'd be perfect for this) through them all to make a 'net' at the top that terminates at a hook so I can hang it from a chain (as it'll be an outside punching bag, am hanging it from a tree-limb :) )

Aluminum Cleaners are popular in automotive and marine aisle, Blue Magic works nicely

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I

This will help with the oxidization. I like to use it with a wool buffing head on my drill. Saves elbow grease. I can get a nice finish this way.

if you want a more highly polished finish, get some wet dry metal sandpaper above 800. I use it in steps from 800 to 2300 to get a mirror finish on vintage pots and pans.

[presently working on a book on restoring vintage kitchenware]

These are the wax sticks I tried:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WJTNH5/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It helped a bit but is still very noticeable.

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If it helps, the scratch did create a bit of a lip on each side.

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Any suggestions are appreciated!

So it sounds like the outlets weren't grounded as someone already stated. The surge protector had nowhere to shunt any excess current to so it just went to your equipment. It's strange that your mother board was blown and not your power supply.

Nevertheless, I wouldn't plug a computer into any outlet unless I new it was grounded. If you do run an extension cord, there's three things to remember. Firstly, make sure the extension cord is a grounded one. Secondly, make sure the outlet is properly wired. Thirdly, make sure to make the cord as short as possible and don't cover it up with anything (rugs, carpet, etc.)

How do you check an outlet? The simplest method is to use a circuit tester. It's pretty cut and dry and it's a non-invasive way to make sure every wire is in the right place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451367300&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65

Depending on how much weight you're talking about hanging it's usually best if you can find a stud to directly screw into.

In absence of that being an option, self drilling drywall anchors are the next best option. You could use something like THESE to go directly to where the old smaller anchors it appears you have were at.

This is the best advice. Make it out of wood and paint it white afterwards and it will be cheap, strong and look good.

visual reference:

https://www.amazon.com/HRD-Floating-Support-Bracket-Decoration/dp/B07T4MDQPB

You just wanted to show off your new GoPro, didn't you? Haha.

I would try E6000 glue. It's amazing, and you can find it at most hardware or craft stores. Skip the tape, it will just come off eventually and leave a mess.

If you want it done right, sew it after the glue sets. Sewing awls like that will make a lock stitch similar to what you would make on a sewing machine. With good synthetic thread, it would be stronger than the original joint.

Oh yea these ones from the factory do not last. On the bright side, I've installed the ones from the link below and they worked great! You'll have to be a little handy, but overall not a bad job. It would be nicer if it was just a light bulb though.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3TGUE9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

check pawn shops, or ask if any of your friends know someone who has one to borrow for a day.

They're not that expensive, and you don't need an official "Dremel" one either, just the cheapest one you can get since you might only ever use it once and that's as long as it really has to last. Think of the time you'll be spending doing other things to get it out. Your time is worth money.

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Here's one from Canada: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dremel-minimite-cordless-rotary-tool/1000100670
Here's one from Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7000-N-6-Volt-Cordless-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XEQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Dremel+Tool&qid=1556748354&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Here's a UK One: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hi-Spec-Purpose-Engraver-Accessories-Compatible/dp/B013OYBMWI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Dremel+Tool&qid=1556748394&rnid=1642204031&s=diy&sr=1-3


don't know where you're from so I picked the most common places. Just look up Dremel Tool on your favorite online retailer, and sort price low to high. Pick up the first one that you see. It should come with the bare necessities to get the job done as far as attachments are concerned.

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If you decide to do serious dremel work, do not use the paper cutters. Get one of the metal/composite whatever ones. They won't shatter in your face as readily and last a little longer. They're worth the money.

These do a great job also until the head is fully rounded out

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b0OkDbAQAGG1H

In my experience of going through multiple Staples chairs, I've found that everything below the seat plate to be junk. As I used to purchase high end retail store Staples chairs that were on clearance for pennies on the dollar, I was replacing under warranty at least one part every year until another clearance chair came up at a great price and in the trash the old chair went (if you look up my posts from two years ago, you'll see they were nearly all Staples related). If you consider this chair a keeper, purchase a large thick hard plastic chair mat, replace the cylinder with a class 4 (Staples chairs come with class 3) that is in line with your height and wheels that are HD with soft polyurethane.

Here are Amazon links for chair parts if you're interested.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L38S6DU

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FCQ0PKQ

I'd agree to a support in it. Dowel-like. If it is porous use this https://www.amazon.com/3M-74-Spray-Adhesive-Clear/dp/B000WSH5EO/ref=asc_df_B000WSH5EO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193160157826&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8782032068424514402&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003474&hvtargid=pla-316016957948&psc=1

I'd let it dry like a week before use.

>MULTI-CODE3089

Hmm, I've checked the specs of these remotes, it says they work on 300Mhz radio frequency. Never heard about this in Europe (most devices here use 233 Mhz which is permitted for civilian use).

Anyway, Amazon sells external 300Mhz antennas, like this one - https://www.amazon.com/1089-SMA-Mini-Magnet-800MHz-1-SMA-Male-Connector/dp/B01DY8FTD2/ref=sr_1_4

Check the box on the gate and verify the type of the antenna connector. If it is a standard SMA, you'll be able to easily install a new antenna and the long extension cord will allow you to place it higher.

Yeah, can confirm I have no clue what I'm doing! Just got my kit, and I honestly just picked one from Amazon because I don't know one from the others. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should this be sufficient?

Sometimes.

3M also has a solution for that lol

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Plus-Primer-fl/dp/B00UY39TZ0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wall+filler&qid=1568684115&sr=8-4

This is what I was talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524798079&sr=8-3&keywords=eyelet+kit

I feel like enough of those, along with some good paracord and a properly anchored hook, would do the job.

Even easier: a pair of little rubber non-slide feet - one each under the front corner, none under the backs - would probably get you there. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-45929-Piece-Rubber-Bumpers/dp/B006Z7B16Y/

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

teflon tape like this https://www.amazon.com/UHMW-TAPE-19-20A-5-18-Adhesive-020-Transparent/dp/B01N5G0Z8Y/ i think there is a clear one.

You can look for molding plastic parts at home tutorials too or go 3d printing

Checked online and found this stuff ... never used but looks promising from a color match


https://www.amazon.com/Kampel-901-White-Seam-Fil-Tube/dp/B0006G84RO

just replace it. The replacement cylinder is easy to swap out. Here is one I've used. MySit Office Chair Piston Gas Lift Cylinder | Heavy Duty 5" Stroke Universal Size Pneumatic Chair Cylinder Gas Spring Rod Replacement Black

I would recommend this tool.

I've used these to replace plastic anchors holding a couple of towl racks to the wall. they have a larger diameter than the plastic anchor hole and so far have held up well.

This does a great job at detecting wiring faults and is cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/