(Part 2) Best products from r/fixit

If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

>I'm guessing this unit is made particle board? It has very little structural integrity... that's why this type of stuff is so cheap.

Yup. I would have been happy to spend more, but this was the only TV stand that had the space and shelves that I wanted.

>Anyway... It's a little hard to tell exactly what's going on from the pic but I think the whole thing is sagging. Meaning the bottom panel as well as the top. That amp must be heavy.

I think you're onto something here! I scanned in the page from the manual that describes the various weight limits, here. My receiver, a Denon AVR-S900W, weighs 21 lbs. I'm not sure what "50 lbs total" is supposed to mean but if it means the combined weight on all the shelves in the centre section, then I should be within spec - the next heaviest item is an Aiwa MX100 VCR which according to Amazon weighs 11 lbs. The only other devices are a cable box (under 10 lbs) and a slimline Blu-ray player.

Of course, regardless of specs, some sagging is happening...

>Check the measurement from the floor to the underside of the bottom panel at the ends of the unit. Then check it in the middle. Is it different?

Yes it is! By about 5mm.

>The easy fix is to cut two pieces of wood or something to what the height should be. Position them underneath where the two interior partitions are. If you have no wood or the means to cut it, just stack up some old books or something. The idea is simply to provide support for the two interior partitions which should then provide better support for the top. Good luck.

I'll give that a try. Thanks a lot for your help. And to everyone else in this thread for your replies!

Depends on the alchohol and if you like sweet or dry drinks. The beautiful thing about cheap alcohol is that it's perfect for cocktails. Never mix good alcohol with cheap mixers. Using a good Rye whiskey with coke or ginger ale is a waste, but mixing it with Absinthe, Peychaud's bitters, a sugar cube and shaken over ice will yield my favorite cocktail a Rye Sazerac.

Here's my suggests for the basics

Vodka: Moscow Mule
Ingredients: 4 oz Ginger beer, 1 1/2 oz Vodka, 1/6 oz Lime juice, and mint to taste. It's important to either muddle the mint or to slap it against tour hand a few times to get those oils to come out and flavor the cocktail.

Rum: Dark and Stormy
Ingredients: 2 ounces Gosling's or Myers's dark rum, 5 ounces ginger beer, Lime wedge.

Tequila: Classic Margarita
Ingredients: 2 ounces tequila, 1 ounce triple sec (orange schnapps mixer 15% alchohol), 1 lime, add simple syrup to taste. Salted rim or splash of OJ optional.

Whiskey or Bourbon: Old Fashioned
Ingredients:

• 1.5 oz Bourbon or whiskey,
  
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters,
  
• 1 Sugar cube, orange slice and a cocktail cherry.
  
  Muddle cherry orange and sugar cube with the dashes of bitters. Pour whiskey over top.
  
  Gin: don't buy cheap gin....gin isn't like vodka. Gin has a different flavor depending g on the brand. My favorite brand Hendricks had notes of cucumber and rose tips in it and is amazing in a variety of drinks.
  
  Best recipe I can do for gin: Tom Collins
  Ingredients: 2 ounces gin, .75 ounce lemon juice, and .5 ounce simple. Pour over ice and stir.
  
  Another option is to just use lemonade. Never shake gin and you'll bruise the juniper in the spirit and really take away from the liquor.
  Get yourself one of these a shaker and a cocktail book. Start experimenting.
  
  
  
  This channel has some decent drink receipts if you're looking for some.
  
  
  
  Prost!

tldr Ultimately I never found the part anywhere and used a universal/non-oem part. If you have the same fridge, it should work for awhile. It's probably important to get the right horsepower.

Funny story, I looked everywhere online and never found the part for sale. I did find the universal part (linked above) that looked like it would work, but a lot of people said it would eventually burn out the compressor.
It didn't seem likely but I have more free time than money these days so I decided I would try a local appliance parts store. I brought the part to be replaced down to the store, and they could not determine the model from the part so they didn't know if they had it. I was pretty sure they didn't have it anyway, so I asked if I could buy the universal part (which they had, hanging next to the cash register). The lady whistled and said ohhh nooo, you can't use that, just come back or call back with the model #, when I asked how much it would probably be she said maybe 50-60 dollars. So I went back home, got the exact model number off a tag I finally found inside the fridge, and called her back, and she confirmed they didn't have it. They were selling the universal part for not much more than the price online, so I decided to save some of my food and go buy it there. When I got there was a different lady, but she did the same ohhhh noooo you can't use that. I gave her the model # and after she couldnt find the oem part, she sighed and said "Men." immediately did a 180 and rang up the universal part.

The installation was pretty simple, there's a diagram on the bag that shows you what to hook up and it includes the caps and stuff you need. I couldn't find a place to clip it so I just duct-taped it to the inside of the fridge. It's a little noisy when it kicks on but it works and saved me a few bucks.

In theory you could brace the legs together with a piece of stock metal, maybe brace at the bottom too, but at the end of the day those legs aren’t very beefy. What are you looking to do with this table though? If you need something very solid this probably isn’t the best choice.

I picked up a table similar to this from Costco a while back for a pretty good price, nice and solid and easy to put away.

It is a good idea in general to open things up and clean them if you spill stuff into them. However, I would look up some youtube videos of people working on your particular model. I haven't opened a MacBook in years, but some laptops can be a real pain. You'll want to make sure you have the right tools and a backup computer in case things go south and you have to take it in somewhere. Definitely back up your data if you can.

As far ESD stuff, you can buy a wrist strap and mat on Amazon for about $25.

http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-AS9-Anti-Static-Field-Service/dp/B004XZQ30Y

Plug the mat into the third prong of a grounded outlet. Then set the laptop on the mat and put on the wrist strap. After you open the laptop, be sure to touch an exposed metal screw in there or the metal case before starting work. This will ensure the laptop is at ground potential. When you pull the motherboard or any components from the laptop, set them on the mat.

You can clean the laptop with isopropyl alcohol and or distilled water. Alcohol is nice because it dries fast. Just get in there with some q-tips and start scrubbing. Of course, not too hard. The tiny surface mount components can come off if you press too hard or if they're corroded. Just make sure that if something does break loose, you know exactly where it came from. One good trick for gently cleaning big messes is to dump a good bit of alcohol on the board, then spray it off with a can of air. Just be careful to keep from getting any microphones or speakers wet. It's also not good to leave a board wet for too long. They can warp.

You didn't ask, but my favorite flashlight is the Petzl Zipka. https://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Zipka-Headlamp-Black-Size/dp/B01KYTQZEG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519744676&sr=8-1&keywords=zipka

It's amazing because it's small and instantly can strap to your head. With headlamps and your hands free, you will never want to use any handheld lamp again. It's super bright, can be strapped to anything with its retractable string, has red mode, and glows so you can find it. 200 lumens.

The door should have a (or more) 2x4 stud on each side of the door that's flush (or, close - within a 1/2" or less) with the door casing. (the first pic on this page shows how it should be framed.) The door should be nailed/screwed into those studs on both the hinge side and the lock side. The studs are what should hold the weight of the door on the hinge side, and hold the latch securely on the lock side. If this was hung correctly, after you've drilled through the casing, you should see a stud, not a cavity. (Like I said earlier, the stud could be a little bit away from the casing, but not much - you should easily see it). In that case, you'd just use longer screws to install the latch plate (those 3/4" screws are useless for security. You want 2+" steel screws that will hold in the 2x4 stud - both on the latch side AND the hinge side.)

But, it sounds like your door is NOT hung correctly, and at least this one side doesn't have a stud. "Fixing" it correctly is a bigger project that involves taking out the existing door, putting in the king and jack studs in the right place, adding a header and cripple studs, then re-hanging the door. That's a good bit of work, and would require some drywall work and paint after you are done. It might be too big of a job for you.

But, before you do that, I'd ask where is the door? Is it an interior or exterior door? And why you are putting in the deadbolt. Is it for true security, or just a little bit more privacy?

If it's exterior, I'd get it re-framed correctly. If it's interior, and you just want a little bit more privacy, consider a security latch - something like this or even this. Neither of these will be as good as framing it correctly, but it will make it a little more difficult to kick in (but not really hard).

Good luck.

The parts list I HAD been using:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/463222/Frigidaire-Frt18s6a.html#product-FRT18S6A

(Illustrations on page 10, part numbers on page 11)

gave this part number - 5304433579 - which looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-5304433579-Refrigerator-Manufacturer-White-Westinghouse/dp/B004XL2VXG

(and cost a lot more a couple of days ago !?!?!?)

It wasn't until I took the old one out that I realized they can't be the same. The parts list mentioned IS for my fridge and has been right otherwise. No idea...

A different parts list, also for my fridge, gives something closer (starter - ptc): 218721112 OR 218721113 depending on model. Neither match what I have.

241707702 is the part I have. I understand what a relay is but don't know what a starter PTC is or does. I will google and read.

There are 3 tabs holding it closed. I did try for a little while to get it open but it's the kind of tab that make assembly easy, not the kind that make disassembly easy. The cover does move though, it can be done.

The part is light weight but not so light weight that I can say with certainty that nothing inside is potted.

I am in the US (MA).

I had run across that link a couple of days ago, I remember the packing peanut in the fan. I will really read it thoroughly but have no interest in trying the hack, the food storage situation is under control.

Can't express how much I appreciate you taking the time to help.

Well...The faux leather coating is shot, but the fabric looks like it still has a while to go.

It might look different, but I suggest scraping off the rest of that faux leather on the tongue. Then I would spray the entire shoe (inside and out) with some hydrophobic spray: like rain guard or neverwet. Rainguard is pretty cheap and it'll keep just about any liquid/mud off the shoe.


As for the edges of the tongue; gorilla glue, or just regular super glue. There's some fancy stuff called fray check, but that's supposed to be tailor made for this kinda thing, but I've never used it.



I have a pair of kitchen shoes that were falling apart kinda like this. Some hydrophobic spray (is a gift to mankind....really), and gorilla glue will carry you far, though.


Edit: here's a link for the neverwet stuff

depends. You have two main routes.
A) fast and dirty. Buy http://www.amazon.com/12372-CrackShot-Spackling-Paste-5-5-Ounce/dp/B000HSENKS

and http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-125PC-4-Inch-Flexible/dp/B000OC4YUG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

Put paste into holes. smooth and make flush with wall with the knife. sand and paint.

or

B) the more labor intensive but correct way.

Get a ready-made drywall patch. These are available at big-box home centers and hardware stores. They use a peel-and-stick, metal-backed patch for added strength.

Clean up the edges of the hole. Trim away frayed edges with a utility knife and press back into place any small chunks still hanging by a flap.

Cut or shape the patch carefully to fit the hole. Make sure to leave extra backing all around the patch to attach to the drywall surrounding the hole.

Clean and dry the repair area to allow maximum adhesion. To clean greasy areas (as in a kitchen), use trisodium phosphate ("TSP"), which can be found at most paint centers. Warm, soapy water can do the job, too, but don't let the drywall get too wet.

Apply the patch to the wall and smooth the taped edges with your putty knife. This will remove air bubbles.

Use a wide-blade putty knife to spread a thin topcoat of joint compound (sometimes called "mud") over the area surrounding the repair. The aim is to create a smooth transition between the patch backing and the surrounding wall. Because the patch backing lies on top of the existing drywall, there can be an unattractive layered look to your work if you don't do something to disguise it. Therefore you must learn to apply compound around the patch in such a way that the patch backing is "feathered" gradually into the rest of the wall. With practice, you'll learn the technique of making this transition smoothly. It will often require more than one coat of mud.

Example: If repairing a 2- to 3-inch (5- to 7.5-cm) hole, you will want to use a 10-inch (24 cm) putty knife to apply a skim coat of joint compound as a final topcoat. Remember to "screed" (gently scrape) the mud in one smooth, final stroke.


Apply a liberal amount of non-shrink joint compound with a putty knife. Wider putty knives will produce smoother results.

Smooth the compound with the putty knife. Pull the blade toward you in one steady, smooth motion, letting the knife make a 30-degree angle with the wall. If your finish doesn't look smooth, simply wipe off the blade, wet it and scrape the wall again. Make the mud as smooth as you can, but don't worry if it's not perfect. You will be able to sand the compound later when it's dry (although this can create a bit of a mess, so it's best to leave it as smooth as possible before it dries).

Let the patched area dry thoroughly before applying additional coats or sanding.

Once the compound is dry, lightly sand the area smooth using drywall sandpaper attached to a drywall sander. (Regular sandpaper will work, just not as well.) If there are large blobs or strips, shave these off with the putty knife first. You want to create as little dust as possible.

Hide minor imperfections with an ultra-thin topcoat of joint compound. Apply this topcoat over pin holes or hairline cracks as if you were trying to scrape it all off with your knife without leaving any behind. With experience, this step can often be accomplished without additional sanding.

Unfortunately that depends on the glue type used. This is going to sound odd but stay with me. If it seemed like a gooey/tacky adhesive you can just pry it off slowly and it will likely just tear away. If it seems solid then it may be a CA glue or similar substance that will come apart best with a bit of debonder.

But if you aren't particularly worried about the case you can use a box cutter and slowly with a decent amount of force cut around the entirety of the seam to free up most adhesive. Then use something like a hair dryer or heat source of some kind to soften the plastic as you try and pry the face off. The heat only makes it less likely for the plastic to break.

Does that help?

Price is really going to come down to how nice of a faucet you want and if you’ll put it in yourself. More faucet installs are pretty simple with an adjustable wrench and maybe a screw driver. Most newer faucets are made to be weekend warrior proof. Just make sure you find one that is a single post and not one with separate posts for the valves. Something like this would likely work great for you and be a nice little upgrade over what you had. You would just install it without the rectangle plate at the bottom, which will be one of the install options n the instructions.

If you show the underside where the faucet attaches to the waterline I can say for sure if it’s a simple DIY or not. You’ll be looking for a hex nut fitting on copper or braided flexible tubing (or one connecting to the other). As long as the faucet isn’t soldered to the water line, you’ll be able to do it without any issues.

Here's an enormous one, that you should be able to cut down. But it's always most important to figure out what works best for you. Good luck!

Wall26 24"x 60" (2 by 5 feet) .30mil Super Strong Flexible Magnet Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQ048EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-PE7CbS45996S

Sugru is a pretty good adhesive that's flexible. Not quite sure if it would have proper adhesion on that foam though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU7DBNM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_T9zGDbVC50THW

Use this to clean it, it's amazing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074F242VQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

its a clinging bleach/ thick gel that will cover the mold and eliminate it without any scrubbing or effort, it will also remove all the soap scum

oops, I guess the right term is "alcohol prep pad": https://www.amazon.com/Dynarex-1113c-Sterile-Alcohol-Preparation/dp/B00VS4F91W/

(Actually they are exceptionally good for cleaning electronics and waaay cheaper than specialized cleaning wipes)

you need Sugru, moldable glue

Sugru Moldable Glue - Original Formula - Black & White 8-Pack - I000467