(Part 2) Best products from r/goodyearwelt

Last week I snagged the last of my size, 8.5 D, in the Eben boot, which was in the sale section. That sale section Rider offers is impressive and made what would be out of my reach attainable. I love that he offers it. It's good for guys who want well-made boots that look suitable for the office and don't want to pay Viberg prices or Alden prices (which are almost never eligible for coupons). And I love my Alden JCrew cordovan cap toe boots, don't get me wrong. But once I got those last summer, that was my huge splurge. No footwear for $400+ for a long time for me. To get the Eben at $200 is amazing when I consider the alternatives at that price.

Update: added comparison pics to Alden JCrew cordovan boot

Background:

About a year ago, I realized I had gotten tired of disposable footwear that broke down and started to hurt my joints (and I'm only 37!), that I couldn't re-sole after breaking them in, that were a waste of materials, etc. So I splurged for the Alden cordovan and resoled in Dainite by Aram of AH One Shoes as a super-durable high-quality choice. If I was only going to buy one pair of quality, versatile, long-lasting while staying good-looking boots, those were them. And then my wife and I agreed I can't be spending $600 (including the discounts!) on shoes every year. Ok, deal.

I had seen the Rider Boot Co Eben boots on Massdrop after getting my Alden boots and really thought they were fantastic looking. A high quality Alden Indy boot alternative that looks sleeker in my opinion and perhaps sturdier, too. I was extremely pleased to know about the durability and low maintenance of waxed Kudu (and that it was actual antelope, unlike Alden's "Kudu").

Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago when my low-quality brogue boot in rotation finally started to get a hole in the sole. I told my wife "I'm shopping for new boots and after having the Aldens I really don't want another disposable thing on my feet. I'm tired of having to go through it all again every year. They breakdown structurally before the sole gets a hole anyway. It just doesn't seem smart." She understood, but at the same time there was no way I was going to be able to spend $400 or $500 on Alden Indy boots. The alternative seemed to be JCrew house brand Pacer boots, made in China with plastic welts, soft soles, thin leather, synthetic footbed...and those cost like $150 with discounts. And although they're Goodyear welted, they still seemed like "how many resoles will I actually be able to get on these before they start falling apart, really." Just didn't seem like money well spent. It began to feel like I either somehow magically get a $400 boot, or I resign to get a $75 boot once again. There are Red Wings and Wolverines and Chippewas that can be had around $200, but the toe shape and actual workboot aesthetic limited their versatility. I needed to be able to wear my new boots to my office job. There are some Allen Edmonds that can be found for almost that cheap, but limited in the boot selection and often leather soled or 2nds quality. If I'd found new Daltons in Dainite for $200 I'd be all over them.

Initial Impressions:

I received the Eben boots yesterday and they're beautiful! I love the color in person, and the Kudu leather is so soft and distinctive without calling too much attention to itself. They appear to check the box for durable, good looking, low maintenance, and versatile. Also, I noticed that the soles are Dainite while the heels are made in Italy--I assume Sestriere. Interesting anyway. I've been extremely satisfied with the Dainite but had heard Sestriere is slightly softer. If true then I'm even happier to have this configuration rather than all Sestriere.

They feel extremely comfortable on the foot--soft and supple, but somehow sturdy, as well. I'll have to weigh them, but they feel lighter than the Alden JCrew cordovan boots. Those hold me upright and keep me grounded, while the Rider Eben is ready to spring into action.
Update: I weighed them and they're actually 3 oz heavier per boot than the Aldens! They don't feel that way on the foot.

Seeing them in person confirmed my impressions from the photos: they look like a sleek version of the Alden Indy boot. When I mentioned my Indy alternative description to Mr. Rider, he said that was the idea behind the boot--that a more tailored version of the Indy would be a good description.

Fit and Sizing:

The Massdrop description I found recommended TTS Brannock, and Mr. Rider confirmed that in an email I sent him just before ordering. He acknowledged that they would be longer in the toes than the Alden Barrie last boots.

My first impression was that they were extremely comfortable, but a half size too large. Just a feeling. However, I can say that I think the ball of my foot is lined up with the widest part of the boot, so perhaps I was just not accustomed to a longer toe that the Eben has. That said, there's more volume to the boot than I expected. The fit pic shows a comfortably snug lacing. It actually looks similar to my Alden Barrie last boots (which are size 8 D) but those feel more snug overall--granted they're broken in. It's hard to know when trying such a stiff sole as Dainite.

I took some more time later that night to try to achieve a good fit. With my standard not-too-thin socks that I wear with my Alden Barrie lasted boots, I snugged up the lacing more than in the album pic and got a better fit. The heel to ball length lines up and the elongated toe seemed somehow not as surprising to me. Still, they were slightly large-volume feeling on the top of my foot at the instep. I tried thicker socks, and this was just a degree too far--too tight at the top of the instep. Then, I tried an old removable Johnston and Murphy insole--very thin foam topped with a thin leather layer. Those combined with my standard socks did the trick! It was a Goldilocks moment. The insole insert is about 3mm thick.

Therefore, I'm considering either Tacco 613 or Pedag 102 insoles that appear to be identical flat, leather-topped, latex/charcoal foam inserts. I also am thinking about some Saphir flat, leather-topped, cork inserts, and I see an identical version called Kaps Pecari Cork Insoles available for cheaper on Amazon. The holes configurations and the leather texture appears to the the identical as the Saphir product. I've emailed Kaps and asked whether they are the supplier to Saphir. Any of these three are 2.5 mm to 3 mm thick and they're all cheap at $15 or less. My instinct is to go with the Kaps since it appears the same as Saphir I'd like to keep with a traditional cork foot-bed feel. However, maybe there's a good reason no one else offers that type, and there are numerous recommendations for the Tacco version here and on styleforum. Does anyone have any thought for or against the latex vs cork?
Note: Unless I'm mistaken from Mr. Rider's posts on styleforum, Rider Boot Co's Blake-Rapid construction has no corkbed between the insole and midsole.

Long term outlook and maintenance:

First this from CF Stead's page on Waxed Kudu:
"The Kudu is an antelope from Southern Africa, living wild in the bush. The antelope family have traditionally provided skins, which make unique leather. A striking combination of softness with strength.
We have used our ‘Janus’ tannage which was designed to maximise the natural mellowness of a calf skin and we combined this with a full wax impregnation, making a feature of the natural grain blemishes."

From what I have read and from what Mr. Rider has told me, there's not much to do to maintain Kudu. It's oiled and waxed for durability and has a rustic appearance so I expect normal wear will not change the appearance for the worse. I'm really curious to see how these will crease and age. The Kudu is thick but supple. It's a completely foreign material to me, so we'll see!

Additional observations:

1. There is a thin, black thread I noticed coming out of the moc toe stitching, crossing over to the other side, going back in, and coming out again. The end is shaped as if it was burned down--a tiny ball shape. I mentioned this to Mr. Rider to see if he has any thoughts on it. Update from Mr. Rider: It's not a structural stitch so nothing to worry about.
   
   
2. There appears to be a nick in the Kudu just above the welt on the inside of each boot. One appears more significant than the other. My only concern is to maintain the health of the leather and structural integrity. I've asked Mr. Rider if there is anything I should do. Update from Mr. Rider: He apologized, explained that there was probably a slip when they did the storm welt (done with a glass shard entirely by hand). He said there should be no worries and told me to keep him posted if anything comes of it.
   
   
3. It's extremely difficult to find a Kudu belt! I'm now in the market for something dark brown with red undertones, contrast stitching...considering keeping my eyes peeled for something in nubuck and then applying some conditioner. Open to suggestions.
   
   Thank you to Ron Rider for being so available, responsive, and patient with my questions and concerns! This has been an extremely satisfying process and I'm extremely impressed with the boots and the customer service.

Although there are more knowledgeable folks around here, I've had to deal with some plantar fasciitis that flat insoles can flare up so I'll give this a rip. Not sure if you're looking for arch support so YMMV.

• 1)Most welted shoes don't have inserts that can be removed. There may be thin leather liner cemented onto the insole but that's it. The whole shoe is built around the insole like a car is built on the frame.
  
• 2. A resole doesn't change the insole. Maybe google shoe construction and learn for yourself how the welt is sewn onto the insole and upper (Goodyear welted, handwelted, stitchdown, etc) and then the outer sole is attached to the welt. A resole only replaces the outer sole and affiliated stitching. The insole could be replaced I suppose but that would require a complete rebuild on the original last and well... why would you? Might as well buy a new shoe.
     
• 3. Yes some brands have better support than others. In boots I have a pair of Whites which are famous for their Archease insoles. I love them. Nicks does too although I don't have any experience with them. Regarding shoes, Allen Edmunds have never caused me a problem. The best supporting shoe out if the box was actually from Buday a Hungarian maker.
     
• 4. I use Superfeet insoles in some of my flat insole shoes with generous lasts. Vibergs 2030 and Alden Barrie and Trubalance lasts are conducive for the low profile Superfeets. Alden also has their Modified last built to accept orthotics if u get a Prescription. I've never felt the need to see a podiatrist (yet) so These work well in more generous last and these work better in tighter shoes. Many of my shoes just won't accept an insert and I find these work well to avoid the plantar fasciitis.
     
     Good luck. I enjoy all my shoes despite the flat insoles. Good luck

I have the dark brown calf Boots.

(I also have Black Red Wing Beckmans and some Burgundy Allen Edmonds that I will polish today or tomorrow)

I went on amazon and bought a few things --

1. Chamberlains milk leather conditioner
   Chamberlains is nice and I like it, but others recommend Saphir Medaille D'or Renovator which I might get just to see if there is a noticeable difference
   
2. Saphir Creme Surfine Get the color(s) of your shoes/boots
   
3. Saphir Pate De Luxe Again, get the color you need. There is also a Medaille D'or Pate De Luxe which people recommend which I might try later
   
4. Shoe shine cloth or some old towels/tshirts
   
5. some kind of shoe brush, preferably boarshair or some nice fine hair that won't damage the leather
   
   Basically, I've never done this (well maybe once a long time ago watching my dad shine his shoes....so like over a decade ago), so I just jumped on youtube and google to look for stuff.
   
   
6. Pretty much first you wipe of the shoes with a damp/lightly wet rag/cloth or brush it with your nice brush.
   
7. Let it dry a little bit (2-3 minutes) then apply your leather conditioner. Just do small dabs (dimesize) in the major areas and rub it in. Leave it for about 5 minutes or so.
   
8. Get the Creme Surfine (or other similar product) in the color of the shoe and apply just like you did the leather conditioner. Videos show how you wanna wrap the towel/shirt/cloth around your hand. Don't use a lot of pressure and use circular motions. Let dry about 5 minutes. You repeat this process maybe 2-3 times.
   
9. The last coat or two (or more?) use the nice shiny Pate De Luxe wax. Same process except you use even less of this than the Cream. You can also mix some water in, but I chose not to for my first time. You can put like 1-2 layers first, let it dry, then add some more. This part is up to you and how you want the shoes to look. I only put like 2 layers of polish on.
   
   Let it sit over night with your shoe trees in, then see how nice the outcome is!
   Took me like....45 minutes or so but I had to keep going back to make sure I wasn't being dumb or missing something. Overall, its pretty easy. I'm sure there are "better" ways to do it, but thats why I'm reading and looking at stuff to see what to do.
   
   If anyone has more tips or help, or if Im completely wrong, please TELL ME.
   Hope I'm not here spouting blasphemy.
   

Very happy to help! I don't personally own a pair of those but a good friend (and fellow footwear idiot) has a few pair and loves them.

I think the Woodlore Epic is the current sub darling, if you want to go with a tested time-proven option.

Have a great night and weekend!

First post here as a rookie, looking for advice on a few shoes:

​

- My Clarks Chukkas (https://www.amazon.com/Clarks-Mens-Bushacre-Chukka-Beeswax/dp/B004DCNN64/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536692195&sr=8-3&keywords=clarks+chukka) have fallen apart (soles are cracked straight through) within 10 months or so and I'm looking to replace them with a similar aesthetic (i.e. brown/dark-ish, not black), but hopefully more durable. Any recommendations? $100-250 price point

​

- My original thought what the chukkas above didn't hold up due to water, but maybe they are just cheap since apparently the soles are rubber? Either way water gets in through the soles VERY easily. I was thinking of (in addition to the above) buying a boot that's better in the wetter weather. I want something that can be semi-casual and worn with jeans/chinos. I like the aesthetic of the AE Normandy Boots in brown, but i'm afraid they aren't built for the purpose (i.e. light-medium water/rain) since they have leather soles. Does anyone have any other recommendations that are similar within the $150-300 price range?

​

(What would be nice would be to eliminate the need for this second option and kill two birds with one stone with the Chukkas.)

​

- Lastly, I'm mostly settled on getting some AE Park Avenues in Dark Chili to go with a 3-peice BL Midnight Navy suit I am ordering. No question here, just pointing out. These won out over the darker brown or Oxblood options.

​

​

Thanks for the help!

Thorogood can be a good bet for smaller sizes, I wear the Roofer in 6.5 (true to size), and it is a good soft-toe work boot for situations where I want a lot of grip from the wedge sole, but don't need my steel toes. Looks like Amazon has a few in smaller sizes available for a good price:

https://www.amazon.com/Thorogood-Mens-Roofer-Black-Boots/dp/B00EQDI4UU/

Their other boots are good as well, and reasonably priced.

As far as other work-ish boots I own in smaller sizes, most are custom... Nicks and Whites do make great boots, but they are more expensive.

A repost at the advice of a friendly member of the community - I just nabbed a pair of Oak Street Bootmakers Brown Trench Boots and Natural Cap-Toe Trench Boots for a total of $326, tax included. I'm a little floored at that deal. These will be my first really nice boots, after a pair of Tan Rodeo Chippewa Apaches and a pair of Cherry Red 1460 Doc Martens (I got them for around $10 at Urban Outfitters... I couldn't say no, now they're my rain boots!) I have a couple questions regarding my most recent purchase...

1. Given that they're practically the same boot, does it make sense for me to keep both? I expect that the natural boot would darken as it ages, bringing them closer in color, and a cap toe isn't quite enough a difference to justify having both.
   
   
2. Would either or both of the boots be appropriate for business or business casual attire? The leather soles seem to lean towards a more formal boot, but the laces and metal eyelets say otherwise. I'm graduating from college soon so I'd like to have a rotation of nicer footwear for work and this seems like a great start in addition to my Apolis Officer Shoes, but I also don't want to blast a whole bunch of money if I don't need to. Does it make sense to consider these an investment?
   
   (would swapping in waxed round laces bring them up a notch? I think the contrast of a darker lace on the natural ones would help them out, too.)

Lexol is a pretty easy catch-all when it comes to cleaning and conditioning, definitely the best bang-for-your-buck, and will minimally color/darken your shoes.

That being said, my new favorite conditioner for oil-tanned leathers (like most IR models) is Saphir Cuir Gras. Much more expensive, but for that you get a higher quality product with more natural ingredients like neatsfoot oil. Also has a very pleasant almond smell.

I have a pair of Frye Arkansas Midlace boots. They have already been resoled once a few years ago. The insoles are pretty hard and uncomfortable at times. I bought a pair of these insoles but I don't think they will fit in the shoe since I cannot take out the old insoles they appear to be glued on.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009R9EJO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I may also need to resole the boots soon again. Do you guys think I should try to restore these or should I just go for a better pair of boots? Been looking for a legit excuse to get something nice like some alden 405's or maybe some iron rangers.

http://imgur.com/a/KejNM

For insoles, give these a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Timberland-PRO-Fatigue-Technology-Replacement/dp/B009R9EJO8/

They are thick. They aren't highly shaped, but offer a little arch support without being annoying.

What they do really well is cushion. The material and design is not too squishy and not too firm. No gimmicks like gel or flimsy pieces of plastic. Also they are fairly thick, so they should fix your volume problem and wont damage the leather insole.

I work on concrete all day and these are the best IMO. And I have tried about $120 worth of insoles over the last month. These will be my go to from now on.

I was actually considering getting a pair from Epaulet this go around, but that sort of turned me off of getting them. I think I'd rather grab Outliers and get them hemmed at that point.

Quick watch question for you. What is your favorite quartz watch?I keep getting the itch for some sort of diver or diver inspired watch and have been eyeing various Seikos. Also, a Speedmaster alternative would be nice.

I'm sure I could ask /r/Watches but I'd probably just be annihilated for wanting to keep a decent budget and preferring a quartz over auto.

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

Someone else on Reddit recommended these which you can get from Amazon. I ordered the size 11 for my 9E Grant Stones which were just slightly too roomy with medium weight socks. The insoles fit perfectly and make the boots comfortably snug and I just take them out if I'm wearing heavy wool socks.

I don't know what price range you mean by not too expensive but here are some options.


Red Wing Moc Toe lug is a different moc toe without a wedge sole but still might be too bulky.

Thorogood has this cheaper moc toe that you might like.

Red Wing Beckman moc toe is a nice but slightly pricier option.

Irish Setter is Red Wings cheaper hunt and work label but they are all made in China. They have some other options

Or you could look into some Made in Maine handsewns for a different moc toe look. Here is a Quoddy chukka for cheap if you happen to be a 11.5

Hope this helps some.

You can try a couple of things. Some people use tongue pads to add a touch of volume so the vamp is a little more snug. I've also tried Superfeet Black insoles which are good for about 1/2-1 size and also give really good support. They don't slide around at all and are very comfortable.

• Maker/Model: Red Wing Beckman Chukka
  
• Size: 8.5D
  
• Leather: "Antique Cigar Featherstone"
  
• Price: $75 OBO (shipping included)
  
• Wears/Condition: 100s of wears, good condition
  
• Images: imgur
  
• Notes: I wore these to work (office job) every day for about a year, but I cleaned and conditioned them regularly and always kept them with shoe trees. There are a few minor scuffs which should be visible in the album.
  
  PM me if interested. I'm also happy to answer questions about sizing if I can.

Simple Lexol conditioner will be more than sufficient the first time just to give the leather some life. Not sure how long they could've been sitting in the box before you purchased them. No need to go crazy with maintenance on those boots. Using a simple horsehair brush before each wear just to knock any dust off of them will be enough. Those boots are meant to take a beating, rain, dirt, mud, whatever - they'll be fine. No wax on them. Ever.

Leather conditioner is like the conditioner we put on our skin. Leather after all is skin, and it gets dried out. It just needs to get some moisture to it.

As far as a shoe tree - the one you linked is pretty nice and if you feel like spending the money for it that's fine. An inexpensive one like this will be more than sufficient..

I think Nordstroms half yearly sale may get you some pretty cheap shoe trees (~$15) too - may want to check over there first. The shoe trees are just there to provide some moderate shape to the boot. The leather is pretty thick on those and will be more than fine without it - but it'll keep any thick wrinkles from developing in the vamp. If you sweat a lot in the boots, the cedar provides some relief to the leather from the moisture build up.

Can you give us some more criteria? For instance, what is it about Red Wings that you would like to avoid?

If it's the price, I would recommend Thorogood Heritage Boots (in either moc-toe or plain toe). I've worn a pair of the plain toes semi-regularly for 5 or 6 months and they're quite comfortable. I like the way they look too.

If it's the look of Red Wings that you want to avoid, that's tougher without specifics. Is there any style of boot that you know you like or dislike? For instance, if you don't like the big, chunky style of Red Wings or Thorogoods, you could try these Chippewas which everyone seems to like (but which I have never worn).

I just bought a pair of Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees in medium from the US (online) and they are too big for my shoes. They are suited for sizes 8D-9.5D, however I found with my 8D shoes they applied too much pressure. I would say they are better suited for sizes 9D-10D.

I have only put them in my shoes once, and they are for all practical purposes brand new. Comes in original box and will be packed up securely.

I am looking for $20CAD plus whatever shipping is within Canada only. Paypal

Shoe Trees I Bought

Plain toe blucher it is! They definitely look like the oxfords that I bought off of amazon! Thank you!

Just got my first pair of good quality boots (up until now, I've had Steve Madden and Guess). I got a pair of Chippewa Service boots and I have a couple questions on fit.

I'm not exactly sure what constitues 'heel slippage' but I've read on here that it's a sign that the boots are too big. I've worn a size 12 since I was like 13 years old (I'm 30) so I got a size 12. Having them laced up fairly tight, there's maybe a 5mm movement of the heel when I walk. Is that enough to be concerned?

The rest of the boot fits very comfortably.

Clean them with some saddle soap. Use good brushes. Then apply some leather honey on the brown parts. It'll help bring back some of the original color quality, but boots that old, and that worn, are going to be hard to get back to the original finish.

On the plus side, boots that old and that worn are supposed to look like that. Clean them up a bit and take care of the soles and you should have no problem getting another 15 years out of them.

That's a pretty tight budget, but you can still find some nice boots. I'd suggest either chippewa apaches, or thorogoods (moc or plain toe). These are both around $130, and are decent boots for the price.

If you don't mind spending a little bit more ($220 or so), you can get red wings (on sale, or seconds), which are, in my opinion, a not insignificant step up in terms of material quality and construction.

Okay. I used Chamberlain's Leather Milk and it faded it a bit. You think I should I use boot cream, all natural leather natural conditioner or boot cream for this kind of leather?

Hey guys,

I've been looking for a reasonably priced lighter brown boot lately, and the Renegade Tan Chippewa Service Boot looks pretty appealing in the stock photos.

Problem is, from reviews I've seen online the leather looks a lot darker in person than what the stock photos show. Can anyone confirm how accurate the shade of brown is in the stock photo, and if it really is darker in person, can anyone recommend a similar looking/similarly priced pair of boots?

Thanks!

Simple question: Any consensus on using Leather Honey for good boots? I've used it and it worked fine on some leather items, but I managed to over-condition some pieces and it really darkened some veg-tanned leather.

What conditioner/cream should I be looking at if I want to make sure not to darken brown/tan leather?

I have slightly different sized feet (which is very common). You have to size for the larger foot unless you want to go the MTO route. As was stated, AE will do this for the cost of the MTO fee ($125 IIRC).

Mine are about .25-.5 size difference. In most shoes, after they break in, they are fine. For others, I use a thin leather insole in just the left shoe. It feels strange for about a day and then I adjust.

For reference, I use these very thin Pedag insoles. I now have a nice collection of unused sz 11 right foot insoles if anyone has a larger left foot :)

Cool beans! Thanks for the info.

Would this work for conditioner? Or is there another product that would be more bang for buck?

In regards to polishing the shoe, would regular kiwi brown shoe polish work?

woodlore epic twin tube works pretty well in my experience

Most RW leather conditioners are made for oil tanned leather and not for the smooth leather of Beckmans. You should only use the RW products listed here. I use Lexol on my Beckmans and it works great.

Thank you guys! Question-- should I get both the cleaner and the conditioner and apply both or should I just condition it?

And this is the correct product right? https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1015N-Leather-Conditioner-16-9-oz/dp/B000QFORK8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474643721&sr=8-2&keywords=lexol&th=1

Ok so I’m looking for moc toe boot that can service me in the winter time(Minnesotan winter to be exact). So from what I understand I’m looking for a rubber sole with lugs. I’ve been looking at mostly redwings because that’s what I know is recommended most the time.

So something like this WOUND’T work? RW Heritage Classic Moc

But his would, right? RW Moc toe Lug

or this? I’m not sure about the sole Thorogood Moc Toe tobacco

This says it’s a Vibram® Christy Blown Rubber Wedge outsole, would that work? Thorogood Moc toe brown crazyhorse

Those last two would appear to be the same damn thing, but say they have different soles.

I really like the white wedge sole, but it’s hard to commit to something that will be a liability come winter time. The price on lugged sole I’m not a fan of, but it is what it is.

The way a lot of these are described seems inconsistent to me and I can’t make heads or tails of what won’t cause me to eat shit this winter…

Also, any other boots I should be looking at?

Thanks.

EDIT: What about these?

All right, so this or this? And should I get an applier like this, or can I just use a regular sponge?

Bet. You just saved me some money!

I need aesthetic advice. Black wedges or White?

Here is a link to the Chamberlain's Leather Milk.

My SO had it, and uses it periodically on her Ariat riding boots (These, I think. Not sure though). It seems to work very nicely, so I was disappointed at my results.

I will look into the creme polishes. Why do you prefer the creme polish over the wax?

How well do stretchers really work for width on boots (like this)? Have you ever tried it with shell cordovan?

I'd actually disagree. You don't really "polish" CXL. I'd have Bick 4 for occasional conditioning and either Venetian Shoe Cream (I use the neutral on my brown CXL but there is a brown verion) or Saphir Greasy Leather Cream (I use neutral here too, but there is a brown).

The first thing I'd do for a spot like that is hit it with a damp (not wet) cloth and brush the heck out of it. Go ahead and do that for both boots.

Ha, well that's annoying. How's this link. No, you only need to condition them when the leather starts to feel dry.

This is the one I use. Works great, no complaints.

Aren't they GYW, though? The boots in the images are these Thorogoods...

My shell feels dry, should I use this?