(Part 3) Best products from r/gpdwin

Evecase 5.6 x 5.6 x 3.5 inch Camera Bag.
Chose this after trying too long to find a 3DS bag that didn't have horrible straps. $16 with Prime

Anker USB 3.0 4* USB tap.
Obviously, you need to have more than 1 USB port to do much, like using a mouse with a usb drive.
$9 with Prime.

Cable Matters Mini HDMI male to HDMI Female cable 2 pack.
Minor shaving required. Not tested extensively.
$10 with Prime.

Lexar USB 3.0 Micro SD Card Reader
If you want to use a ferry card or temporarily pop your card of choice into a computer, one of these is incredibly helpful. Plus it's tiny. You can probably get one cheaper if you don't want the 32GB card included.
$33 with Prime.

Standard XBOne Controller.
Works without any need to mess with dongles on Windows 10. It'll even work with headphones/sets.
$35-$50ish, depending on color and luck.

Venom Xbox One Rechargeable Battery Twin Pack.
I don't recommend these in particular, but a rechargeable pack is a must if you don't want to guzzle batteries.
$17 with Prime.

Logitech Wireless Mouse M185.
Pretty reliable, but only has the standard 2 mouse buttons plus tilting and clicking mousewheel. Receiver stores inside nicely.
$13 with Prime.

Kid Icarus Folding 3DS Stand That I Had In A Box.
Needs a little rubber bumper to help secure the Win properly.
$10 with Prime.

Perrix Asymetrical Folding Keyboard.
This one might be tough to find, but it works amazingly. The weird fold system pushes the main hinge off to the side, so it is less likely to fold the moment you put it on your lap. It also completely hides the hinge when the keyboard is unfolded. A bit cramped, but the keys are properly clicky laptop keys.
For image and model reference

Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Charger*
While looking for my power pack, I found this one. Seems to be a flat upgrade. 26800mAh with 3 4.8A output USB ports. Also has 2 micro usb inputs for double the charge speed?
$59.99 with Prime.

Other possible pack-ins.

Bluetooth Numpads.
If you're primarily going to be gaming, you might want to drop the full keyboard in favor of a bit of space plus one of these. Works nicely with a mouse if you rebind with HIDMacros. Also more tiny airport/college desk friendly. Example unit is $30

Similarly, you might want to try a half controller + mouse option using a device like the Nintendo Joy-Con's left unit. Drivers are still being worked on though, so only get this if you're up for beta troubles.
$50ish, but you can get lucky on eBay.

SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 flash drive.
The one in all the Win lists I've seen, but I figured I'd list it here for convenience.
$45 with Prime.

Batteries
All this stuff takes a total of 3 AAA (2 for the keyboard, 1 for the numpad) and 1 AA battery that will need replacing eventually. I hesitate to recommend rechargeable ones, as I have yet to find a micro charger for them.

Inateck USB 3.0 Ethernet + 3 USB 3.0 port adapter.
You might want to replace the 4 port one with one like this if you plan to do network maintenance, secure data transfer, or just plain download things quickly.

$20 with Prime.

PS4 Controller.
Some people prefer this to the XBOne one. It's lighter in the hand (and bag), comes with a built in rechargeable battery with absurd life, and has a touchpad with 4 physical buttons underneath. Can do some pretty crazy things with the touchpad via Steam's controller customization, but has weaker compatibility with non-Steam applications. Also works with PS4 Remote Play.
Worth noting that, unlike the ps3 controller, this can charge directly from any micro usb power supply. Headset support seems to require the official receiver dongle, sold separately.
Controller Alone: $40-60 Depending on color. Silver's cheapest.
Adapter Alone: $66
Controller + Adapter Bundle: $66

Budget 1 Handed Controller**
Hey, if you want to try 1/2 Controller + Mouse, why start off pricey?
$10

Phew, that's about all I have on hand.

It's a great machine. Only problem I've had is the forced updates from Microsoft that have kind of broken my automatic controller functionality in a lot of games. I've seen other issues, though they all seem to be repairable/reversible issues. This specific issue has made it difficult for some of my games to easily see there's a controller available.

I have a 128 GB Samsung Ultra Fit USB flash drive that sits in the back. It's very low key and not noticeable. It does make it difficult to move the screen back completely but the position it is in is just fine with me. There is also a common issue with the USB 3.0 port that makes it sometimes not readable but it just takes a little move and the system recognizes its in there. Just seems to be a cheaply made port, is all. It works most times and has never randomly disconnected on me. This just usually becomes a problem when I remove it and put it back in. Currently there doesn't seem to be anything this small to allow for portability and ease of putting in your pocket, etc. that's above 128 GB. I paid like $30 for it at a local store. That has all of my games on it with Skyrim being the only game I have installed on the internal memory.

In addition to that, I have a 64 GB Micro SD card that is in there and I've just started using it for anything extra I have. 256 GB Micro SD cards are pretty pricey at $150+ for a decent one that will work with your gaming needs.

If you truly stick to emulators, I think that 128 GB USB flash drive will be suffice for you for everything while helping you save money and allowing you time to save up for a 256 GB Micro SD card like I'm doing.

The GPD Win is pretty pricey on its own but you can get lucky if you don't mind getting one used. I got one in superb condition for $300 off eBay (the number 1 key doesn't work, but that's okay) as they are about $439 brand new starting and they take longer to ship because they come from China. I've also read some people having issues where customs opened their box thinking it was drugs. There are also people on this sub selling theirs, one guy today posted one asking $250 and saying it's brand new in the packaging. Doing that may help you save money to put towards an expensive, good SD card too.

The SSD type that fits in the GPD WIN 2 is the M.2 2242 model, and there does exist a 1TB SSD from a company called Dogfish. While the SSD works, I believe Dogfish SSDs run hotter than what comes stock, so it might be in your best interest to invest in something like a USB cooling fan to assist with the device not overheating.

1TB flash drives also exist and fall within the same price range as the SSDs, but I'll also caution that you'll want something like a USB-C splitter (something like this) so if the flash drive is used heavily that the heat it will generate is not impacting the device itself.

As far as external controllers go, the GPD WIN 2 features Bluetooth and works with connecting external controllers for multiplayer, and switching the device to mouse mode will deactivate the built in controller to allow the external controllers to be P1.

You can use any 'nipple' type of stylus on the touch screen to get the best impact without damaging the screen, but to be honest after handling the device for long enough and using the bumper to speed up the cursor it feels second nature.

Lastly, while saving directly to the SSD would be the most efficient, depending on what you're doing you can go the USB route and see a negligable difference, like using the USB to save/load smaller Steam games. For your case, I would say you could use USB to save the Ableton application but any projects should be on the SSD itself.

EDIT: Forgot to mention the micro SD cards. Micro SD cards can be great for storage but are much, much slower when it comes to the speed of either USB 3.0 or the SSD. Personally, I use my SD slot for storing ROMs and use a USB to store Steam games.

I installed ps vita 2000 joysticks (not the cheap knockoffs that gpd uses, but the quality originals with built in rubber pads). I then use these clip ons that easily pop on and off these joysticks.
https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Analog-Stick-Cover-Black/dp/B00XXSONHM

The caps will work on the original gpd joysticks, but can be hard to pop off. WIN joystick ARE vita 2000 joysticks.

Edit: I also removed the rubber from the left "mouse" joystick cap and welded the joystick top (shaved down the rest of it with a dremel) from an original xbox controller to it. Any normal sized joystick would do, I used the xbox because I had an old broken one and its relatively flat. It makes a big difference and is pretty close to a larger joystick. I'll post an image later

Hello!

I actually loaded up with accessories right out the bat, and most were from amazon.

They are:

A usb 3.0 hub

Bluetooth Mini Keyboard

Bluetooth Mouse

Amazon Basics 11.6'' laptop bag

I did also order a mini HDMI to full size HDMI cable from Gearbest for like, $2, but it's pretty shit. I'd suggest getting one though.

Now, this was all calculated. I travel a lot, either for work or for leisure, and this device was just perfect for it.

I wanted to get a case that can hold everything, but take up a small footprint. The case is just wide enough to hold the keyboard, the middle pouch can hold the Splitter, the Mouse and either the GPD in their if you want, or with the keyboard.

It all fits very well, and the only thing I haven't tried is the hub, but I'm sure that'll work.

I plan to get a folding headset for the go as well, and have a usb splitter for Mic and Headset, so I can hopefully get some CSGO action using the hotel tv when I'm away!

That said, the mouse I got can go from incredibly responsive to having just a small delay. It's fine for using for the web and what not, but I'd probably suggest a different mouse, or just a wired one if using the hub. (for portable and not frequent use, the reviews for this one are very good!)

Hope that helped!

Here's a teardown that I used when I did mine: http://tieba.baidu.com/p/4815125987?pn=0&

The 15x15mm shin is the correct size but the thickness matters as well. I believe Phawx used a 1mm thick shim and there was a noticeable bump in the keyboard, I used a 0.8mm thick shim and it cools very well with a barely noticeable bump. There shouldn't be a problem using anything from 0.5 to 1mm, but I wouldn't go out of that range.

I wouldn't remove the joystick cables from the motherboard. They are tough to get aligned again when reconnecting them. Use some tape to hold them in place on the board.

Two specific things to keep in mind: there are two screws that hold the main board in that are shorter than the rest, note where you remove them from. Also watch the input selector switch when you're reinserting the main board, make sure it's aligned with the switch on the case.

Other than that you should be in good shape, it's not too tough of a mod. Just keep your screws organized, and take your time putting it back together and you'll be fine.

Also silver is not going to be worth the added cost. It does conduct better, but only marginally so. You can spend the extra money, but I'm not sure it's worth it. Copper is around $2.60/lb while silver is around $240/lb. While the conductivity of copper is 386 W/mk and silver is 407 W/mk. So you get an approx 5% increase in cooling for a nearly 100x increase in price.

Edit: let me know if you're having any trouble and I'll try and help you.

Screwdrivers I recommend:
#0
#00

Here is a pack with 5 different thicknesses of copper shims. Same set I used:
Copper Shims

Edit: to give more off the shelf items that could work with this

....or you could buy a regular gpd win lol

On a more serious note it's not that horrible of an idea technically you could do this now with existing items including the win or even laptops that use thunderbolt
As with the USB c interface you are able to push all of these things through as far as I'm aware what you have to do is have the "handheld" part act as a USBC dongle with the extras integrated

So this in theory as a base
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07L8YPYGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fR5zCbW1HVGAN

You have your video out (the HDMI)

(Controller) is using data lines from usb 1

Have usb port 2 available for removable media or
!PLAYER TWO! (Viewing issues not covered under warranty :P)

Speakers could potentially piggy back off the HDMI signal or hook them up as an inbetween on the 3.5 mm jack

Micro SD ...well...removable media

And with one of the usb c ports you can charge the device if power supplied over original usb c connection is not enough

There's the idea I will take 1-2% percent of profit and 2 devices for myself 1 functional prototype and 1 finished device please and thank you where do I get my check

Screen
(Portable HDMI Gaming Monitor Mini Screen Display 7 inch Resolution 1024x600 Compatible 1920x1080 for PS4 xbox360 Computer MAC Laptop https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07K3YJK9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G45zCbPHY6CK4 )

Controller probably wired Xbox standard as a it's windows supported already

Here are the components-- just for clarity on what I am really using. I've used some handlebar grips for the leather. Pretty thin and durable. The tape in the picture is generic but I had some 3M tape earlier which had better tack.
http://tinypic.com/r/2h5ibnk/9

Another option (much neater but not quite as durable as leather) is to use the rubber mat from a cheap mousepad. The rubber they use is very grippy and is easily cut into shape and offers excellent grip. I was doing this previously before I started using leather. Here's what it looked like on the Dpad and the left analog- http://tinypic.com/r/241jj90/9

Also, in case you're wondering, these are the kind of mousepads I am referring to-- https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-58024-Medium-Mouse-Black/dp/B0000365QL/ref=sr_1_10?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1494003554&sr=1-10&keywords=mouse+pad

They cost like 10 cents in my country.

> Are there really rechargeable lithium AA's that are the same nominal voltage?

Yes:

• $11.90 for 4-Count TENAVOLTS Rechargeable AA Lithium Batteries with Charger when you apply promo code 66USGVBO at checkout, valid until June 15 : r/AAMasterRace
  
  That code is expired, but there are others out there that are still active. Here's the batteries on Amazon:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS Rechargeable AA Battery Charger with 4 Counts Lithium 2775 mWh AA Rechargeable Batteries: Home Audio & Theater
  
  > That sounds not possible unless each battery has a buck-converter of sorts inside, as a lithium cell is generally 3.something volts nominal.
  
  That's exactly how TENAVOLTS, Kentli, etc does it. There are a lot of them out there now. Of course, you could just use 14500 cells too, and remain AA-compatible with the battery pack. The pack could use a switch to work with either AA batteries or 14500 cells, just by changing from series to parallel. You can accomplish a LOT with an AA battery pack.
  
  > I'd love a (somehow) Lithium powered 1.5v AA battery (rechargeable) to replace my NiMH ones.
  
  The only good reason to do this is to reduce weight. The NiMH cells are better or close to the same as lithium in other ways. Nothing beats lithium for light weight, except maybe AA battery fuel cells or microturbines:
  
  
• DIY 1.5 to 2.0 volt AA battery fuel cell in 9 steps - The first attempt failed, but see comments for a fix : r/AAMasterRace
  
  > I'm just saying you'd need a bunch potentially, given the lower density possible of most 1.5v nominal AA batteries to provide the equivalent of a lithium pack.(Example, NiCd or NiMH.)
  
  The energy density of NiMH is almost exactly the same as most lithium batteries:
  
  
• AA battery technology comparison chart for lithium, NiMH, alkaline, carbon zinc, and zinc air : r/AAMasterRace

I mean, with the GPD WIN you're paying a premium for the small form factor. If you're only concerned with price and performance, with portability not being as big a concern, then a laptop or desktop will definitely give better performance. Here's a quick example I found and took 5 minutes to find that's in a similar price range but better performance to the WIN: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1IO3QW/

I sometimes use a couple of different USB fans:

https://www.amazon.com.au/ARCTIC-Breeze-Mobile-Flexible-Portable/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=asc_df_B003XN24GY/?tag=googleshopmob-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341792025491&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2383948075395915345&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000286&hvtargid=pla-441796032378&psc=1 - I use this one if I'm using the GPD on a external screen or handheld WHILE it's charging (the fan uses a bit of power so expect 1-1.5 HR battery life with fan on)

https://www.ebay.com.au/i/262358644471?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=262358644471&targetid=752504740784&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1000286&poi=&campaignid=7412621934&mkgroupid=80280725225&rlsatarget=aud-693796249881:pla-752504740784&abcId=1139426&merchantid=116570866&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqabvuPWI5gIVkTUrCh08qwT4EAQYBSABEgL4mfD_BwE - Or I use this one when I'm exclusively on battery power as it has 2 mode settings, low and high and while on Low I can still maintain good battery life.

The first fan is longer and can extend and bend directly over the intake which is why it's a great little cooling gadget, really helps with the temps (at least 3-5 degrees Celsius difference - depending on game).

The second Xiaomi fan is shorter but the dual mode makes it ideal for battery use. In both cases, there is a risk of your fingers getting jammed up in the blades but if you bend the fans properly, you should be good.