(Part 3) Best products from r/guns

Look for a 91/30. Prices atm range from ~130-200. I wouldn't pay more than 150 in person for one unless it were something really special. For the love of God don't bubba it (sporterize, cut, destroy, drill, etc) (From what you've posted you don't sound like the kind of guy who would- Good man.)

Recoil isn't worse than a 12guage, it kicks but it's a fun kick. Of my guns it's my gf's favorite, and she's tiny. Get a rubber recoil pad and it does wonders, I have a link for the one I use in the 2nd half of this guide. People joke about the recoil being insane but it's greatly exaggerated.

Here's some info from a guide i've been working on. Runnybear's guide over on the /r/guns FAQ is a great place to start but I tried to pick up on some of the stuff he left out. Also I held out on including a hidden goatse, for better or worse.


BUYING:

FACTORIES: Russian Mosins come from two main factories: Izhmash and Tula. 91/30’s (Made after 1930) Izhmash is depicted by a triangle with an arrow in it. Izhmash before that is depicted by a small bow and arrow. Tula is depicted as a star with an arrow in it. Some people swear by Tula, something to do with less being made by them and they got the instructions before the Izhmash plant did and could start producing them earlier, but I have yet to find any solid evidence that would indicate one being better than the other. Regardless of whether or not any difference is present, online gun retailers have capitalized on such views and will charge you extra (10-20 bucks from what I’ve seen) for a Tula. Again, that does not indicate that they are better, they’ve capitalized on people thinking (which may or may not be true) that Tula’s are better. For reference both of my Mosins are Izhmash (’42 refurb and a ’44 Ex-PU Sniper) and work just fine. If there’s a spotless, sparkling Izhmash and a rusted or beat up Tula, I’d go with the Izhmash. Don’t think of Tula as some holy grail with steel forged by Stalin himself in Lenin's tomb.


REFURBS: Check the stock and receiver for a small symbol that looks like a square with a line either going diagonally through it or vertically through the center. This would mean that your gun was taken and re-finished and touched up at a Ukranian Arsenal in the 1970's. Up to you on whether or not you want a refurb. The refurb process basically touched up the rifle and may have swapped out or replacement parts. Your call if you want to go with a refurb, some people say it “takes away from the collectible value” or whatever but when it comes down to it we’re talking about a 150 dollar rifle so the “collectible value” might be an extra 20 bucks. If you’re looking for a good shooter, I wouldn’t scoff at refurbs. Parts were replaced due to being worn out or beat up. When looking at a refurb definitely check for a COUNTERBORE (described below).

EX-SNIPERS: In your journeys you may find a 91/30 that was a sniper-model originally. 91/30's that had exceeded accuracy standards were given a scope, bent bolt, and a better trigger system and issued to snipers. As the war dragged on, the need for infantry rifles outweighed the need for sniper rifles, so they started stripping them of their scopes and re-issuing them as infantry rifles. To see if said rifle is an ex-sniper, look for a few signs. For starters, check the receiver to the left of the factory stamp and date (on the side of the rifle, just above the stock). Do you see a separate serial number with a line stamped through it? This would be the serial # of the scope on your rifle that was removed. To check further, open your bolt and inspect the inner receiver wall. Do you see 4 holes about the size of a pencil eraser in the wall of the receiver? These are spots at which one point the receiver was drilled and the scope fastened in these holes with screws. Also look for wartime productions with very smooth receivers. This is not always indicative of an ex-sniper, but sniper models were given nicer finishes at the factories than their infantry brethren. While a standard wartime 91/30 would probably have grooves or a rough surface, ex-snipers have smooth, finished barrel shanks. Also look for a "C" stamp, this is indicative of a sniper mosin. Ex-snipers are generally worth a bit more than a regular Mosin, and the trigger is much nicer. Also they were originally more accurate than their infantry brethren, but that may or may not be true today. It does make the rifle unique though! Also, on my '44 Izhmash Ex-Sniper the bolt seems to move smoother and more quietly when working the action, and i've noticed at the back of the receiver on mine the path that the bolt travels has some angled grooves, almost like rifling. Not sure if that has anything to do with the bolt being quieter/smoother but it's there.

COUNTERBORE: Also check the muzzle to see if it has been counterbored. What this means is that for whatever reason (dinged up by cleaning rods, rust, Ivan tried to fight a rock with it) the muzzle crown was messed up, and the Soviets re-drilled it to “improve” accuracy. A simple way to check this is to take your average 7.62x54R round and insert it into the MUZZLE, bullet first (pointy goes in). If you can press the bullet itself in up to the casing around it, it was a counterbore. If you find resistance and can’t push all the way to the casing neck, it was not counterbored. Counterboring affects the accuracy and is generally not desired.

FIELD STRIP IT: Look all over for rust and pitting. Even though these things were seemingly tossed in a cosmoline vat, rust can still be present on these rifles. Taking the rifle apart is super easy. Start by making sure the firearm is unloaded. Then, pull the bolt back all the way. While pulling the trigger, pull the bolt back further to free it from the receiver. Then, slide the two metal bands on the stock (holding the wood on the barrel) to the front of the rifle. This should allow the top wooden cover of the barrel to free and come off. Then take a Mosin tool (or flat-head screwdriver) and you’re going to remove 2 screws. One is on top-back of the receiver, just beneath where the cocking knob sits when the bolt is closed. The second screw is underneath the rifle, at the front of the magazine. Take these two off, and you can pop it right out of the stock. Look underneath the rifle and all over it for signs of rust or pitting (little pocks and divots caused by rust eating into the metal). Avoid rust like the plague, it’s not your friend and it could cause a serious problem when firing. Once you have field stripped it, you could probably do it again blindfolded. It’s like the world’s easiest puzzle, with two screws and 2 metal bands (not like Slayer or Megadeth, but circular loops of metal to hold the stock (you came for the guide, but stay for my piss-poor attempts at humor!)).

ELECTRO-PENCIL: Check the bolt, magazine, and floorplate to see if they have matching serials stamped into them. They may have the original stamped numbers lined out (or not visible) and the presence of Electro-Penciled numbers (bottom picture here ). What this means is that these parts are not original to the rifle, but were "force-matched" from other rifles to fit it for any number of reasons (the original bolt on your rifle may have been ruined, or magazine broken, etc etc). Think of it as a "Frankenstein" gun, with parts from other Mosins being part of it. This is an indicator of a ARSENAL REFURB, described above, and you may want to take that into consideration depending on what you are looking for.

HEADSPACE: I would either headspace it yourself or have it headspaced by a gunsmith before firing, you can buy gauges from Amazon for around 20 bucks IIRC. I use the No-Go and Go gauges from Firewerks. You will need BOTH a Go and No-Go gauge to measure the headspace, the rifle must pass both checks for it to be considered properly headspaced and safe to fire. They involve a simple test using a little gauge that you place on the front of the bolt and then cycle the action. I wouldn’t imagine any gun store to have a problem with you checking headspace. There is also a “Field” gauge that can be used should the Go and No-Go gauges failed, but this kind of indicates that your gun is in a grey area of safety and should probably only be shot using modern commercial ammunition (I wouldn’t buy anything that didn’t pass both the No-Go and Go test).

(CONTINUED BELOW)

A basic cleaning kit, a bottle of Break Free CLP, some disposable ear plugs, and a pair of safety goggles shouldn't run you more than $30 total and will be perfect for what you want. As you get more involved and buy more guns you'll buy more gear, better cleaning stuff (boresnakes and the like), you'll find an oil that you particularly like (personally, I'm partial to Militec and Strike Hold), and some fancy electronic ear-muffs and nice shooting glasses.

As far as a case, unless you're carrying an expensive rifle or custom match-grade pistol or you'll be rock climbing with it, you don't need a Pelican case. A $10 plastic pistol case with egg-crate foam inside will suffice for just about everything you will be doing with your pistol. I know you said you already ordered snap-caps, but I have to recommend the A-Zoom aluminum caps. The plastic ones break too easily.

If I could give you one piece of advice it would be this: I know that it's fun to buy every accessory ever made for your gun, but honestly most of them are more gimmicky than useful. Start simple and cheap and buy things as you need them. Learn from other shooters what works and what doesn't and make friends that will let you try their gear, guns, and accessories so that you aren't buying blindly. Everyone is different and what works for one person may not work well for you.

Good luck and welcome to the club!

If you're planning on spending more than $150 just save your money and save up for a premium optic like an Aimpoint, EOTech, Leupold, or Trijicon. If you're looking in the 100-150 range, Holosun makes a great solar/battery powered red dot that holds zero well and has a 30-50k hour battery life(when it's actually in battery mode). If you're looking for a more traditional optic, Bushnell and Nikon have good 1-4x optics. If you're looking for more magnification a Leupold
is within your reach. Vortex has strong offerings in both red dots and traditional optics if you're willing to spend a just bit more. If you're looking in the 50-150 range I'd look into a TRS-25 or Primary Arms for a red dot. For a traditional scope i'd stick with a fixed power optic like this Bushnell, you're going to be hard pressed to find a decent magnified optic with good glass in this price range, fixed power scopes are simpler in construction and offer at least better durability but i'd consider sticking to a non magnified optic under the $100 range. If you're trying to spend even less than $50 there is apparently a very well made $20 Fieldsport which is worth a search on youtube. I wouldn't consider anything magnified under $50 but this is a good range for a cool carry handle with elevation adjustment and retro look. Shooting irons can be more fun than using optics sometimes.

I'm also a new shooter for about a year now. I try to go at least once a month to the nearest outdoor place for rifle and hand guns shooting. So far, many of the other replies have done a great job so i'll just chime in with my recommendation for the ears protection. Right now, i'm using these 3M Peltor Combat ARms Earplugs. They're working well for me ever since I got them as a gift from a friend. I bought 3 more just so I have backups. I have one on me at all time, one in my range bag, and one in my car. Before that, I also use the Howard Leight R-01526. The Howard Leight earmuff are also great for its price. However, I don't like it for long session because of my big head that get squished too tightly if they're on for 20min or longer. It also gets in the way when i'm aiming down the iron sights. Other than comfort wise, the Howard's are fantastic in its operational purposed. If you can, try them both then decide which system works better for you. I have them both and most prefer the 3M more because it's has less profile while in use.

The NRA offers a solid set of rifle and pistol 101 classes. One of these would be a good way to get started. After that, competition is a great way to meet experienced shooters and grow your skills. The same applies with classes taught by a good instructor. Check out IDPA for practical pistol shooting. You didn't specifically mention what kind of firearm you're planning to learn.

There's a lot of culture and history wrapped up with firearms. Unintended Consequences is a great way to get a quick overview of that. I see that it's now out of print and rather pricey, but perhaps your library has it.

Tactical Pistol Shooting is a good text on serious use of a pistol. After that, Practical Shooting, Beyond Fundamentals is your guide to reaching the stars. The book will make no sense the first time you read it, but keep shooting and returning to it, and it will not only take your shooting to the next level but change the way you experience the world. Gabe Suarez's books are also good discussions on fighting with pistols. The hardware section in In the Gravest Extreme is woefully out of date, but the sections on legal use of lethal force still apply.

FM 23-10 is a good text on shooting a rifle. The Art of the Rifle is a very readable intro text but leaves out a lot of important things. Jim Owens's book on sight alignment and trigger control is a masterpiece, and his others are worth the price. Green Eyes, Black Rifles is the best book I've found for getting down to business with an AR-15.

But really, you're not going to learn all this from books. They'll mostly help once you've reached a level of proficiency where you can begin to accurately self assess your performance. Note that you'll be ahead of 95% shooters at that level. See Unskilled and Unaware of It for an overview of that. I thought I knew how to shoot a pistol when I showed up for my first IDPA pistol class and ended up getting my ass handed to me. It was quite a humbling experience. After that, I took some classes, spent time shooting with master-class pistoleros, and developed my skills. A few years later I was placing at the top of local matches and teaching other newbies to shoot. I've gotten fairly good with a rifle and carbine thanks to a few classes and shooting with guys that have spent time downrange.

Julie Goloski likely wouldn't appreciate the comments on male family members being the only ones qualified to teach shooting ;-)

Can't help you with shotguns.

You're a cheapass - you only have limited eyes and ears, so you should do your best to protect them... but you can still be a cheapass and do that; I know this because I'm Mr. Safety, but my middle name is cheapass.

Buy these $9.92 Peltor Combat Arms reusable plugs with indoor/outdoor sides:

http://www.amazon.com/Peltor-97079-Combat-Arms-Earplugs/dp/B000W2CPCC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1323708791&sr=8-15

Buy these $8.76 T-72 Remingtons (actually made by Radians), basic safety glasses:

http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Shooting-Glasses-Clear-Anti-Fog/dp/B000F7RSFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1323708803&sr=8-3

Then keep on being a cheapass.

Alternately, you can get these Radians Adrenalines for $13.99; they have an aluminum frame and they look super bad-ass (like awesome sunglasses), the downside is that they only come with tinted lenses, so they aren't as good as clear lenses indoors (but still work). They come with an awesome hard case and a nerdy-ass neckband (which I wear because I'M COOL):

http://www.amazon.com/Radians-Adrenaline-Aluminum-Alloy-Silver/dp/B001F0KGZ8/ref=sr_1_39?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1323708938&sr=1-39

It's unlikely you'd be able to get him something that he needs. As you point out, he already has all the basics (and how good of a gift would it really be if you got him another three mags for a gun which he already has a dozen mags for?). That he reloads means you could buy him more reloading consumables, but, meh, I don't usually think of something that gets used up as a good gift. There are some accessories you might be able to get him that he might not have already (for instance, an AR-15 bayonet assuming he has at least one with a bayonet lug) -- that is kind of frivolous, but it's fun nonetheless, assuming he doesn't already have one anyway.

Malachi's suggestion is good. Figure out what he's really into (is it AR-15s? M1911s? Perhaps it's U.S. service rifles of World War II?), and get him a nice hardcover book on them. For instance, just based on the reviews (I haven't read them myself), this or this look like they'd be gifts that I would really enjoy receiving.

These are the pair of 3M's I have, with 31dB NRR. They are huge and ugly, but they fit well and they definitely protect more than the Howard Leights. You may not be able to get a good cheek weld with these if you're shooting rifle, but I primarily shoot pistol indoors and rifle outdoors, so it works for me.

I use these 3M disposable ear plugs as well, believe they are 29dB NRR. I promise I'm not a 3M shill.


Make sure you put in the plugs properly - roll them up, pull back your earlobe with opposite hand and then insert. I shoot indoors often 2x a month, so protecting my hearing is really important to me.

edit: I should note that I have the basic pair of the Howard Leights, not the impact Pro model.

Definitely going for a .22 for your first pistol. The price (of gun and ammo!), low recoil, and ease of use are the best way to start.

There are a number of .22 revolvers (check out the Ruger Single-6 type) that you could use.

Additionally, many .22s have available magazine loaders that make it really easy. Check out something like this: http://www.amazon.com/McFadden-Machine-Ultimate-Clip-Loader/dp/B004YF931Y

Basically, you just place the ammo in the loader and shake. Then, place the magazine on a table, and 'pump' the device up and down on top of it. It should be pretty easy to do 1 handed, even easier if you have the ability to use your other hand to 'control' things a little (even without strength).

Thanks,
I'm currently studying everything because this won't be happening until next week. (And then 3 days after making the sale!)

I grew up away from guns, but had plenty of time with them via Boy Scouts, and family that owned and let me shoot responsibly.

I figured with my fiance having a job that works weekends, I have like 5-6 hours every other to myself and instead of sitting home and playing video games I'd go out with my friends who all shoot.(and recommended the Hi-Point as a decent "beginner" handgun.)

The handgun cleaning kit I got was this one: http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Cleaning-Aluminum-Caliber-Pistol/dp/B001A4N47G/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1427734900&sr=1-1&keywords=handgun+cleaning+kit

and I lucked out and snagged two 10 round magazines for my C9 for about $20 BIN off eBay of all places. (Free shipping too!)

I got a tough plastic carry case, with padlocks, and a "bike lock" for through the chamber/grip to keep it extra safe. (Handgun bondage is what comes to mind). I am looking into lessons currently, but don't really have a desire to CCW (Club DJ, most of my "out and about" time is in nightclubs, inside conventions, or otherwise my apartment porch. Even then, most of my friends have CCW's and I'm typically not without them.)

I am nervous as this is my first, I know it's not the best but I'm excited to get into this hobby!

Thank you for the advice!

I'd buy:

Breakfree CLP syringe

Larger bottle of breakfre

Boresnake

Those and a box of q-tips plus a toothbrush and maybe some rags make a great cleaning kit. For a light, you'll want to get a streamlight tlr-1 or tlr-3, but they are both closer to $100. You might also want to get a little safe for her, a mini gunvault would work well. And ammo... must have the ammo!

You might also want a range bag to keep your hearing/eye protection, ammo, and pistol in.

Gunmate bag

And sometimes I find that muff aren't enough which I saw you bought. I like to wear these sometimes by themselves or under muffs.

Peltor ear plugs

I take out the yellow end and they make really nice, compact, and effective hearing protection. And they're reusable of course.

We're like, connected somehow.

http://i.imgur.com/37QwVbX.jpg

Not only does it fit perfectly in my hand, is very accurate & has the best aesthetics of any other handgun IMO.

Also, get the Hogue grips, the gun will feel SO much more steady.


Also also, I can't believe your wait times. While this is mostly a blue state, I've come to love PA for their gun laws. Once I decided to buy this gun, I walked into a dealer and 30 minutes later I was a proud owner.

Very nice choice. I personally recommend some Hogue grips, as they improved my grip and aim considerably, though I'm sure since you've fuckin been to the army you know better than I do. Congrats.

http://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Rubber-Beretta-Series-Grooves/dp/B000STKK9E

Bummer that OP deleted all their comments. Wonder what happened. I'mma not let what I wrote go to waste.

> Cleaning kits are usually separated into rifle, pistol, and shotgun kits. For rifles, pistols, and shotguns, there are different bore sizes. A "22 cal" bore brush is much too small for 30 cal rifle. There are some universal kits, like these -> Amazon Link, Amazon Link, but they might not have the right bits for larger bore handguns.
>
> If he is getting that handgun for home defense, a quick access safe might not be a bad idea, specially if kids or untrusted adults are around -> Costco Link. Preferable something that can be mounted/cabled into a nightstand, desk, or bed frame so it's not as easy for any potential robbers to run away with as easily.
>
> Or you can go the easy route and get him a gift card to cabela's or some other outdoors/hunting good store.

OK, the Snug-Plugs are close. I would suspect that the only way to get in excess of -30db is to use the best Over the Hear Headphones, or to double up on plugs plus muffs.

Someone recommended 3M Peltor X which are -31db ($27) -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPCHBCQ

That is probably the best you can do for a reasonable price.

Here is another bit of information that ...well it is interesting.... every time the amplification or attenuation changes by ±3db, the power DOULBE or HALVES.

When you go from -28db to -31db, the amount of energy reaching your ears is HALF.

Keep in mind there is a SQUARE factor in the calculations, so Power is not directly proportional to Voltage (in electronic). And there is a 20 log or relative to power, 10 log factor in the dB equation.

But the simply take away is every change of 3db, which in terms of what you hear is small, is a doubling or halving of the power received.

My Rad-Bands are -23db, so to reach -32db, we increase by 3db THREE times, meaning the Power is halved three times. That means 32db is allowing 1/8th of the power to reach your ears compared to my 23db ear plugs.

I've got a couple books I think are useful, but certainly not the best. They are however cheap and not out of print.

Bruce Canfield's Complete Guide to the M1 Garand and M1 Carbine and US M1 Carbines, Wartime Production by Craig Reische are the two I have.

http://www.bavarianm1carbines.com/ is an excellent online resource and there are some great forum posts out there with detailed information.

Yeah, your best bet is probably going to be a big box sports store or home improvement store - you probably won't be able to get a safe, just a cabinet.

As for the dehumidifiers, I would get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Stack-On-SPAD-100-Wireless-Rechargeable-Dehumidifier/dp/B001F0IH22/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=IB29TIBYSLO33&colid=PASR3FR09ZE6

I would suggest getting something like this it will have everything that you need, and a lot of brushes for other calibers if you end up getting them. Other than this kit, you will need a (preferably lint free, I like to use microfiber) cloth, and a small brush like a toothbrush (these are great), and a powder solvent (Hoppe's No. 9 is great stuff)

Colt 1911 from Sarco made in 1933 and an old Ruger Standard.

I haven't run the Colt with hollowpoints yet, but it's eaten FMJ without problems. All I did was knock the rust out of it, change the grips for used old walnut, and put Wilson Combat springs in it. Runs Chip McCormick and Wilson Combat mags just fine. You can just barely read the markings on the left side. On the right, Colt is clearly visible but half the pony is gone and the rest is pretty faded. Serial number is untouched though.

The Ruger is a Standard that was the second generation, ~1974, made after the original stamping equipment wore out, so the magazine follower button is on the same side as a Mk II or III. This means I can use the Ultimate Clip (sic) Loader. This pistol eats everything and is a tack driver. It's been the first gun that more than a few people have shot, great for teaching.

I gotchu: Amazon link.

It's amazing value for the price. Good reviews. Works just fine on my plinkers. Make sure you get a cheap riser if you want any sort of co-witness.

Bruce Canton's fairly extensive M1 Garand resource is pretty much the end-all-be-all for M1 identification. Very interesting read.

Barring there, there's a lot of good books out there that are much cheaper, and Google will yield much of that information for free.

Some people will say it's cheap but it's worked great for me: Nebo ProTec Elite HP190. The Streamlight TLR-3 is even smaller and a more respected brand but pricey. I have both and either will do the job. They mount to the rail under the barrel.

You've started out right. Keep safe, buy ammo, use up, repeat.

Read the textbook. Zero your rifle, then get off the bench and get good at shooting from the standard positions.

Once you've done that, you'll be ready to make the most out of a centerfire rifle.

Have fun!

I got this one because I didn't want to spend much on a light, it's worked out great for me, really easy to turn on and off and very bright.

Enjoyed the pictures, the M1 is very likely my favorite overall historical firearm. If anyone here ever wants to read the bible, this is an excellent resource. The M1 Garand Rifle

OP Please educate yourself and read THIS book. I don't believe it's the ultimate training guide but it has a very good discussion of mindset. Also THIS book might be even a better starting point.

I get your point about being able to carry but you need to listen to the comments in this thread.

As far as a scope I'm not really that informed. You should definitely go check that forum though and just search for scope because they have some very knowledgeable people and it's solely focused on the 15-22.

I actually just ordered a dot sight for mine. I've read some really good reviews on it and I'm excited to try it out once it gets here.

I'm going to go yet another route and suggest the Nikon ProStaff Rimfire. Mine rides on my 10/22 and they're a great value scope. The BDC is nice, if that tickles your fancy. it's a 3-9, not a 2-7, if that matters much.

Yes! I'm assuming they're practically the same as Buckmark mags... Do you hold down the follower when you put them in or just push them in from the top? I just use my left thumb to push down the follower while I load with my right hand and the rounds drop right in.

You can also buy a cheap "speedloader" that does the same thing, like this one, but if you can figure out how to use your thumb there's no real advantage as far as I can tell. Another option, which I would already own by now if I weren't such a cheap bastard, is this Ultimate "Clip" Loader. I've used something similar for 10/22 mags and they make reloading MUCH faster. Very simple to use as well.

Amazon link

Look through these and read the reviews on them. Amazon always has good books. I'm reading the Modern Day Gunslinger I'm still reading this one, but I think it would be a good book if you're looking into shooting for self defense.

Anything that tries to be comprehensive is, by necessity, going to be shallow. Conversely, anything that gets deep is going to be very narrow. Lots of guns out there, lots of opinions, lots of good info and even more bad info.

There are some excellent specialty type books out there for certain flavors if you're into that sort of thing and want to read about one model or platform.

Subreddits like Jake suggested are good, but may be limited by the amount of participation. Message boards are out there that have spent years building up participation and information. Start with some of those (ak47.net, ar15.com, local shooting boards are good sometimes).

> SVT-40

Is most glorious Russian Rifle.

Will not care if allthread rod is used to remove stuck round fired by filthy capitalist.

Also appreciates lubrication with most glorious KROIL prior to hammering.

Shooting at outdoor ranges during the week will minimize exposure to others shooting. As other posters have said doubling up on hearing protection is a good idea. I recommend these plugs Mack's Ultra Soft Foam Earplugs, 50 Pair - 32dB Highest NRR, Comfortable Ear Plugs for Sleeping, Snoring, Travel, Concerts, Studying, Loud Noise, Work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051U7W32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oUdwDbQNBVA89

"I’ve had an expert say that I could be an Olympic marksman with enough practice, judging from my skills with a BB gun as a kid."

People tell kids lots of things. Get training. Dont get discouraged if your initial results aren't what you're expecting.

my scope suggestion would be a BSA sweet .22 scope. For $40 its great. Have one on my 795 and after about 1500 rounds, no issues at all. Mounted with some loc-tite, it hasnt lost zero at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJUPAS/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002A12VLI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13J1JSBW7XQ03PYDQTJ1

I like the grip master. It's marketed to guitarists but it does wonders for pistol grip strength.

Kroil like this?

Does it really work that much better than hoppes?

Here's a great book that a lot of gun fans enjoy.

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Rifle-Jeff-Cooper/dp/1581605927

I hear good things about the BSA Sweet 22 scope. It's fairly inexpensive and is tailored for .22

I use this cheap scope on my Ruger 10/22 and this red dot on my Marlin. They're both dirt cheap, and rock solid for me. I wouldn't trust them on anything more powerful than a .22 though. My buddy loved the red dot so much he bought one to put on his M&P15-22.

Awesome gun.

I suggest you get this immediately. You cannot imagine how much better the gun feels and shoots with this on it.


You can thank me later.

Save an extra $30-$50 and get a Nikon, Leupold, or Burris rimfire optic when they go on sale.

Like this one.

These.

They are cheap and effective. Having the yellow end in makes it so that I can mostly hear conversations and background noises and stuff. The olive end acts just like foam earplugs.

If you're running experiments, try Kano Kroil. I haven't had the problem you are dealing with, but it is an excellent bore cleaner and lots of folks swear by it.

One of these in different weights to work on isolating the trigger finger and increase grip strength.

http://www.amazon.com/Gripmaster-Exerciser-Medium-Tension-7-Pounds/dp/B0006GC5D8/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1381464401

I keep them in my safe, that has several cordless dehumidifiers like this

http://www.amazon.com/Stack-On-SPAD-100-Wireless-Rechargeable-Dehumidifier/dp/B001F0IH22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344020471&sr=8-1&keywords=cordless+dehumidifier

these https://www.amazon.com/3M-OCS1135-Yellow-Neons-Earplugs/dp/B008MCUOH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469058422&sr=8-1&keywords=earsoft

and these https://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-Over--Earmuffs-X5A/dp/B00CPCHBCQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469058444&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+earmuffs

wear them together, make sure you insert the earplugs properly like this https://youtu.be/8vHP8K3BsrA?t=1m15s

I saw on a thread last week someone worrying about humidity in their safe, which got me thinking. Should I be worried about humidity in my safe? It's on an above ground floor, and I live in Canada so hot summers and cold winters. What should I do about it? I'm thinking of buying a cheap humidity meter thingy and sticking it in there and getting periodic readings to see if anything needs to be done with it. What are "safe" levels?

Right now I only have guns I don't even bother cleaning but I eventually wanna get a nice 1911 down the line and I'd hate for that to rust up.

Edit: Thanks for the replies, looking at this now.

http://www.amazon.com/BSA-Sweet-22-Scope-Matte/dp/B000NJUPAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334928679&sr=8-1

Best scope under $50 you can buy.

rust pitting under the nickel

there's really no good cheap answer. to keep things from getting worse give it a gentle scrubbing with an old tooth brush and some oil, wipe the whole thing down, then hit it with a little more oil. a rinse with warm water and a little soap wouldn't go amiss as long as you thoroughly dry afterwards.

this will get you by, but these are better and can accommodate a .22


i'm sure you've realized, but don't store things in cases

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

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https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0106BYBPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86iJzbEWQ86BS

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I've used Stack-On SPAD-100 Wireless Rechargeable Dehumidifier for Stack-On Long-Gun Safes or something similar at a couple different jobs now, and they're great for places that don't have ovens available. Let them do their job, and plug them in overnight when they need recharging.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YF931Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

This thing is awesome. I use it on my 22/45 Lite. Loads them in seconds.

There's this option. The BSA Sweet .22. I've got one and love it, on a Savage Mk II FV. That said, it has no mil marks on the reticle, and has 1/4 MOA turrets. If you buy off Amazon, you get a slightly older model that has adjustable parallax with the aperture and not a knob. You'll want to look into a set of these rings though as the scope is a little short for the mounts on a Mk II.

Found another amazon link, this one is the same brand, but has all the strengths: http://www.amazon.com/Gripmaster-Exerciser-Medium-Tension-7-Pounds/dp/B0006GC5D8/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1427718805&sr=1-2&keywords=pro+hands+medium

I started with medium.

If you're like six feet to the side of an AR or something with a muzzle brake, the Impact Sports probably aren't going to cut it. If you're considerably more spaced out or using hunting rifles without any muzzle device (projecting more of the sound forwards,) they should probably do fine.

FWIW, I do keep one of these jars of earplugs in my range bag so I can double up whenever I deem it necessary.

I am currently looking at Boyds Stocks for mine! https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/


I also used a BSA Sweet 22 for a scope:
https://www.amazon.com/BSA-Sweet-3-9x40mm-Duplex-reticle/dp/B000NJUPAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510700021&sr=8-1&keywords=bsa+sweet+22

I'm getting this.

Seem good?

So this is a Smith and Wesson Model 27, made in 1960 (per the serial number), .357 Magnum (also .38 special). I received it as a gift and it is my first gun ever! Super stoked to own it now, and I'll probably join the prolonged slide of gun ownership that I see in this sub time to time. My next purchase is likely a smaller concealed carry weapon.

The giant ammo tin is vintage, I'm guessing vietnam era, but no idea, I could be full of shit. It's stacked with hundreds of .357 FMJs. 1 box of .357 hollow points, and 2 boxes of Shotshell snake charmers.

I'm pleased as punch with this gun. I've just purchased a bunch of accessories on amazon, I'll post them below, maybe you can tell me if these are good products or not for range shooting. (No referral links or any of that bs)

Plano Protector 4 pistol case

MTM 38/357 Cal 100 Round Flip-Top Ammo Box

Remington T-72 Shooting Glasses

3M Peltor Combat Arms Earplugs

Hoppe's Universal Gun Cleaning Accessory Kit

Art of the Rifle

I also found this one helpful

Hoppes is a solvent used to remove lead and carbon from the cylinders and barrel. According to the label it does prevent rust in bores but it's a bit smelly and a good gun oil would be much better suited to wiping down the outside of the gun.

I made a video of all the cleaning supplies I'd recommend to assemble a good cleaning kit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYOcSWlGxmc

Since you only have one gun you can get by with 3 things you should be able to get at any walmart.

Cleaning rod set
Hoppes 9
Gun oil (rem oil, CLP ect..)


You can get everything in one kit The first one doesn't come with patches but you can cut up and old tshirt or pair of socks (according to the amazon reviews both come with patches)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RZSXCO6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001A4N47G&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1CD71YFXVFQT7FC1APXH

Includes patches
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Cleaning-Aluminum-Caliber-Pistol/dp/B001A4N47G

.38 Spl commonly uses unjacketed lead bullets so your gun likely could use a good cleaning to get all the lead out. This lowers pressure, eases extraction and increases accuracy.

1. First take a patch and wipe solvent down the bore and cylinders.
   
2. Wait 10 minutes and hit it with a brass brush you dipped in solvent.
   
3. Then hit it with a clean patch dampened with solvent.
   
4. Then hit it with a clean dry patch.
   
5. If the patches aren't coming out exceptionally dirty or green colored move to the next step, if not go back to step 1.
   
6. Then hit it with an oiled patch and then a clean dry patch to get excess oil out.
   
   Now take a rag and wipe the whole gun with a bit of hoppes solvent to clean it and then with a bit of oil to protect it from rusting.
   
   Shoot the hell out of it.

I use these and they've never caused an issue with my glasses.

They're bulky but they work really well. I'm a bit skittish about the electronic ones.

This one?

https://www.amazon.com/FieldSport-Micro-Sight-Precision-Green/dp/B00Y3SZEJC

I need one and would definitely be down to try a cheap one for only $20!

Nikon has a ProStaff Rimfire with BDC Reticle, 3-9 x 40mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SMX95IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_61iJzbVBWHYPE

For 22's I prefer a smaller scope with less magnification like Vortex Optics Crossfire II 2-7x32 Rifle Scope, Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (CF2-31003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106BYBPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86iJzbEWQ86BS because I'm not taking 400+ yard shots

I have a Protec Elite HP190 and it works just fine. It's not super high-end like a TLR-1 but I didn't pay for super high-end either.

http://www.amazon.com/Nebo-iProTec-RM190-High-Powered-Firearm/dp/B004BNROME

whoa that's way cheaper than i paid for mine. it's held up so far and it's really bright.

These are too cheap and easy to pass up

That scope will be lighter than a Nikon, and probably a bit clearer. But the Nikon is still good.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/BSA-Sweet-Rifle-Scope-Matte/dp/B000NJUPAS also a fairly good scope, for what you're describing. The Nikon you mentioned, and the Leupold will be more usefull if you ever decided you needed to put them on something like an AR-15, but the BSA is a good choice if you don't want to put more money ontop of the gun than you have in the gun itself.

You can get the Nikon for $100ish. It is really worth it. https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-ProStaff-Rimfire-Reticle-40mm/dp/B00SMX95IA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479594771&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+rimfire+3-9x40+bdc

I have a Yankee Hill rear flip up on one of my builds that I really like. But it was like $75 just for the rear.

Or, I know I'll get crap for this, there's a cheap $20 red dot on Amazon that's actually pretty tough. Nobody's expecting you to spend as much on an optic as you are on the rifle. Yet. My buddy put an ACOG on his M&P15 and I think it's crazy his optic costs twice as much as his rifle. But maybe I'm just jealous.

I have the mk III version of the same gun, and it is my favorite one to shoot. I have pulled off some crazy trick shots with the stock sights on that thing, and I've even put a few different sights on the rail and used it to control squirrel populations at long distances.

Get an ultimate clip loader and you'll love it even more: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004YF931Y

Its the Leapers Golden Image 30mm Red/Green dot scope. You can pick it up on Amazon for $40 here

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YF931Y/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

Loads a .22LR clip in 5 seconds and without any sore thumbs.

Course, it's mainly for Mark IIIs, so not applicable everywhere...

I don't know about videos, but I recently picked up The Art of Rifle by Jeff Cooper. After reading it, I've gotta say it's a must have. It's a short book, but it covers everything the rifleman needs to know. I disagree with him on some points (Scout rifles are really stupid), but that doesn't detract from the wealth of information he offers. It covers proper stances, grip, breathing, all sorts of other stuff, and, perhaps more importantly, mindset. It's exactly what you need. Hell, I wish I'd read it a year or so ago when I got into rifles.

an optic would be good. I bought a Leapers Red Dot sight. For less than $50, it 's pretty good IMO.

It won't give you any magnification but it should be accurate up to 50 yards if you zero it in properly.

Note if you havent done so already: When you attach your mount, make sure you degreased the screws that came with the rails and the holes on the receiver. Then use a hollowground screw to attach them (take it from me, those screws strip very easily) after you put some RED Loctite on the screws.

>You're welcome.

It's typically ~130.

Now you just need some hogue grips on that and you'll be set.

http://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Rubber-Beretta-Series-Grooves/dp/B000STKK9E

https://www.amazon.com/McFadden-Machine-Ultimate-Clip-Loader/dp/B004YF931Y/ref=lp_3035177011_1_1?srs=3035177011&ie=UTF8&qid=1518939106&sr=8-1

The bench is great for removing all human error so you can sight a rifle in. After that, it's not much use for building real shooting skills. Ask a soldier or a hunter how many times they've had the luxury of sitting down at a bench to set up their shots.

Jeff Cooper wrote a relatively inexpensive book that covers everything you ever wanted to know about how to shoot from field positions:
http://www.amazon.com/Art-Rifle-Jeff-Cooper/dp/1581605927/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1301327002&sr=1-1

My dad taught me to shoot from kneeling and prone as a kid and I've been doing it ever since, and I still learned more about those positions in that book, as well as others like rice paddy squat, etc. Most outdoor ranges will let you shoot from field positions as long as you don't get ahead of the line of benches. If not, it's time to find a new range.

For plugs I use the soft foam type cause they block more sound and Easier to pair with muffs. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Visibility-Disposable-Earplugs-200-Pairs/dp/B0007XJOLG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Foam+earplugs&qid=1574205980&sr=8-5

For muffs I use these https://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-Over-Earmuffs-X5A/dp/B00CPCHBCQ/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=3m+earmuffs&qid=1574206802&sr=8-7

It will be very difficult to hear someone, since your new I would recommend electronic protection

http://www.amazon.com/Nebo-iProTec-RM190-High-Powered-Firearm/dp/B004BNROME

Stupid bright and quite cheap. Even has a strobe function.

That's a $30 light. I'd say no go.

for eye protection, I just use standard wrap around safety glasses. I actually bought them at the range I frequent and then found the exact same ones at Harbor Freight...

Anyways, for ear protection, I use Peltor Combat Arms Earplugs and I'll throw on a pair of muffs if I'm indoors using louder weapons.

The Art of the Rifle by Jeff Cooper

NOT the magpul 'art of the precision rifle' stuff, i wont say its shit, but ill spend my time reading cooper over watching that stuff any day of the week.the man is a legend, his writing is surpurb, and the information is timeless.

Just mounted a BSA [sweet .22] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJUPAS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19XE0CFLN81HP) on my Ruger 10/22. How do I change the turrets? I'm afraid of forcing too hard. Do I jab the holes and pull up the turret?
The guy at the gun store mounted it without using scope levels and pretty much eyeballing it, will I regret this as I try to zero it?


Aside from reading the FAQ's (which I already have), any advice for me this weekend as I zero my first scope ever?

I use one of these. It's a bit pricier, but loads Mk II/III magazines extremely fast, without the risk of denting cases by snapping the follower shut.

Of course, that's only when it works. The Cliploader chokes on some types of ammo, depending on whether it is copper coated or not, and what sort of lubricant (if any) is used on lead round nose.

I was issued these in basic and they have since been my favorite. And in combat there are theoretically tons of different earplugs that are readily available or provided, including ear-muff type radio headsets and such, but......

They aren't always worn religiously, and even outside of combat the daily work around loud engines (generators, large diesel trucks), tools, and blasting your headphones (if allowed/not caught) while driving trucks (because driving a HMMWV is loud as fuck) will kill your hearing over time too.