(Part 3) Best products from r/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

Looks pretty easy. The basic steps are Sand, Seal, Stain, Finish

1. Sand - Get a Random Orbit Sander and some 100 and 220 grit pads for it. Use the 100 grit to sand everything down until it looks like new again, then use the 220 to sand it all nice and smooth. Do a good job here, because poor sanding will show up in the finished product. You don't need the random orbit sander for this and could do it by hand with a sanding block, but the machine will do a better job of sanding and do it in about 1/20 of the time.
   
   
2. Seal - I've used Minwax pre-stain conditioner. There are instructions for how to use it at the link
   
   
3. Stain - Get a nice oil based stain and apply it. I use a foam brush to apply the stain, wait about 30 seconds, then wipe it off with a cotton rag (old t-shirts work great). Wait a couple of days after staining before proceeding to step 4
   
   
4. Finish - This is always the hardest part, because it's the part that will show/bring out any imperfections that were left in the previous steps. You'll need to find a dust free room (floating dust in the air will land on the finish as its drying and become embedded in it). My favorite finish is wipe on poly because it applies easily with a rag (another old t-shirt, cut into strips), and doesn't leave runs or brush marks. I typically wipe on one coat a day, applying each coat on top of the previous one. I'll normally do three or four coats. Some people say you need to sand between coats but from my experience I don't see any difference between sanding and not sanding, except that sanding takes off some of the finish, requiring more coats and also requires cleaning the piece between coats.

If you want to do this yourself, there are a few things you'll need.

NUMBER ONE is the stamina to go through the process correctly! I don't know what speakers you blew or how hard it will be to get to them, but you will probably have to remove a TON of delicate plastic pieces that are easy to break and difficult to put back in place. You'll have lots of screws to keep track of (different sizes for different pieces) and you need to manage that effectively and label them correctly so you can put them back.

If something is stuck, you'll need to GENTLY and PATIENTLY loosen it.

AND MOST OF ALL, GET HIS PERMISSION FIRST

Ready? Ok. Step 1: Go to your Pep Boys/Autozone and buy the correct Haynes or Chilton guide that matches the model year and make.

Step 2: locate all the speakers in your dad's car, and figure out which ones you blew. You can do this by tuning the balance and fader to the forward left, forward right, back right, and back left. Look for separate tweeters, midrange and subs etc. Once you identify which speakers are blown, you can PROPERLY use the guide to access those panels, take out the speakers, and go to a store selling car speakers to find a suitable replacement.

Put it back in, PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY AS IF IT WAS YOUR JOB, and be done with it. Speakers are easy to swap once you get through the plastic and trim hiding them, but if you break that stuff it's going to be a HUGE pain in the ass to find a suitable replacement that matches for a car of that year. Expect to pay around 30-70 bucks per speaker, depending on how much you care about the quality.

Also, if you actually blew the head unit (radio), that's a much more complicated task to fix. Still doable with the guide, but you'll need to buy a working used radio from ebay and its probably not something you're capable of doing on your own right now, if replacing speakers is outside your comfort zone.

Good luck, and ASK HIM FIRST. Might actually be cheaper to just take it to a shop and have them pop some in. You could buy them first online and just have it installed I bet

I can’t tell from the picture, is the enamel etched or not? If it’s etched it’ll take a professional restore job. If not you can try this: Holikme 14Piece Drill Brush Attachments Set, Scrub Pads & Sponge,Buffing Pads，Power Scrubber Brush with Extend Long Attachment，Car Polishing Pad Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7NFV1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DE2VDb4TJ78JB

I’ve also used rubbing compound with some success. This one is very good. 3M Marine Compound and Finishing Material (06044) - For Boats and RVs - 32 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ9J0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wI2VDb4VJXRS0

Power tools will be your friend in this. Also some strong arms. Good luck.

Ajax Powder Cleanser with Bleach, 14 oz (396 g) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005UVD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1LxWDbMHJ0SG1

Use this, wear gloves, follow directions, basically sprinkle it on, toss on some water, give the tub a quick one time scrub (this one time scrub isn’t meant to clean anything, it’s just to lather up the powder and distribute it throughout the tub.)

let this lather sit in the tub for half an hour or so, then come back and use one of these on the tub with your power drill:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9M667G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8OxWDbYEPS81H
(note this item isn’t available at Lowe’s or Home Depot so order it now and get the shipping process started)

If you don’t have a power drill, you can also use those green scrub scour pads, but man you arm and especially your wrist will be exhausted and you risk hurting or injuring it (ESPECIALLY YOUR WRIST) again wear gloves because this is a dirty job lol.

Anyway rinse as you go, I use a little container of water to help rinse the rest of the tub and other hard to reach places.

You might have to repeat this process a couple more times to get it perfectly clean. There’s also a chance that once you get it all clean that the tub itself has harder discoloration or stains, at that point you might consider just replacing the tub. They can be relatively cheap, even under $300 or so.

source: I just really like cleaning tubs lol

Practice. Practice. Practice. I'd suggest starting with writing.

Try to write an article which describes some complex thing you already understand so that someone unfamiliar with the topic could also understand it. Write the first draft. Then edit it. Then edit it again. Keep editing it until you're confident that the content clearly relays the information in a concise manner. Then do it with a few more topics.

Going through this process should help train your brain to sort through many pieces of information, identify the most important ones, and translate your understanding of them into words. The more you do it, the easier it will become. As your brain gets faster at breaking down complex concepts into communicable chunks, it should eventually improve your verbal communication as well.

For a general primer on writing more clearly, Strunk and White's Elements of Style is beyond compare. The Kindle edition is currently free.

Kind of doubt how well it works, but maybe somethign similar to this and ear plugs?

If you really need results then invest in this.

Paint grenades could also be fun before hitting him with flour or glitter. Just to annoy.

A yeti-style container with super ice cold water could stun him pretty well too :)

So I haven't done a ton of restoring, but I do create a lot of custom cases and cover art.

The first thing you want to do is get a decent photo printer and some glossy photo paper. I picked up a Canon MG550 pre-owned for under $20 at a second hand store and a ton of generic ink for $18 on eBay. Glossy photo paper you can get 100 sheets for around $18. I use this one from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-Glossy-Inches-Sheets-8209017/dp/B000EZ0CTU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456877554&sr=8-4&keywords=glossy+photo+paper

Second you should get a list together of your games and travel over to www.thecoverproject.net. It is by far the biggest collection of game covers, cd art, and game labels on the internet that I've found. There are even some really cool custom covers and labels that people make.

Essentially all you have to do is download the image and print it out in its native resolution. On windows if you open the image in windows photo viewer and hit print you just have to uncheck fit picture to frame and make sure you select glossy photo paper as the paper type.

As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.

1. Turn off the power. Use a handy plugin or induction tester to ensure the power is off.plug in tester induction tester
   
   
2. keep both feet squarely on the ground and wear rubber soles. Do not take a knee or touch the ground with any other part of your body. Do not lean against the wall in any way. Do not touch any exposed metal surfaces, counter tops or sinks.
   
   
3. tuck one hand behind your back and use the other hand to pull out the object with a pair of pliers.
   
   When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.

It really depends on how much work you want to do. A quick brush shine with some polish will do a lot to make them look better but if you want to rejuvenate them it will take more work.

Step 1. Clean the boot. Saddle soap works but there are good leather cleaners out there. I will link to the one I use. A damp cloth and some elbow grease will work as well, although to a lesser extent.

Step 2. Condition the leather. There are a lot of options. I use lexol with comes with a cleaner. https://www.amazon.ca/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-Ounce/dp/B005H7DRQA

Step 3. There are leather repair products that would help fix that tear on the left boot but since these are work boots I wouldn't bother.

Step 4. Brush shine with black shoe polish. Put a little polish on the boot with an applicator brush then brush off the excess with a horse hair brush.

I work in a technical environment in the military and this works wonders.

Firstly: Is your cat neutered?

You can always try being more affectionate with kitty. Is kitty a lap kitty? hold kitty in your lap, maybe brush her if she enjoys that, anything that is soothing and enjoyable. Try wrapping kitty in soft blanket, for most cats, this provides a feeling of safety (warning: not all cats respond well to this). Does kitty have a scratching post/cat house/climbing tree? Try laser pointer with kitty for activity periods. If all else fails and kitty does not grow out of this behavior, seek the help of a vet and see about some medication that will provide some relaxation time for kitty. Maybe see about getting some kind of moving distraction for the cat. I bought one of these for my 2 cats to distract them from scratching on the furniture when I drink my morning coffee and it worked like a charm. Freakin' robots, man.

Source: I've lived with cats my whole life (aka certified cat lady)

I really, really recommend you consider buying an old-fashion double-edge safety razor like this one along with a blade sample pack. Once you find the right blade and adjust to the new type of razor, you'll wonder how disposable razors ever became a thing. Even my wife couldn't believe how awesome they are and it took me forever to even get her to try my razor.

• I have sensitive skin and would constantly get razor burn, my skin would turn bright red, and I'd get bumps after each shave. It took a week or two for my skin to adjust and for me to find the right blades but once that happened, I haven't had skin issues since. The first few shaves did suck but it got a lot better.
  
• The blades are absurdly cheap. You can get Feather blades which are among the most expensive for about $0.10 a blade.
  
• Since the blades are so much cheaper, you're more likely to switch them out properly and get a much cleaner shave.
  
• The razor itself will last for a lifetime and then some
  
• All of those cartridges and packaging are no longer headed to the landfill
  
  If you want an even better shave while saving even more money, consider getting shaving soap + a brush. I've had one of those for like 2 years now.. it's insane how long they last.
  
  There are plenty of sites, forums, and even a subreddit that you can find out much more about DE shaving. Some people really, really get into it so you kind of have to wade through a lot of fanboyism but it's well worth it, I promise.

To remove the auxiliary tip, you could try to use something like this, which is used to remove small stripped out bolts. I don't personally own this set, but the smallest bit in the set is rated for 3mm, and I believe aux jacks are 3.5mm, so it should work well

That's super small, but this is likely the type of tool you'll want: https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO

https://www.amazon.com/CLR-Calcium-Remover-Enhanced-Formula/dp/B00009EFEX

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Ajax-Powder-Cleanser-Bleach-396/dp/B00005UVD9