(Part 2) Best products from r/knifeclub

Okay, where to begin?

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Sharpening a knife is actually a very simple process. The overall goal is for you to maintain an angle throughout the sharpening process while sharpening from course to fine grits (Course = smaller #s and Fine = Higher #s). Often people use cheap knives and sharpeners and learn good habits (maintaining angles) before upgrading to higher tier stones. The issue you have is the you are dealing with a premium steel knife which is much harder, holds an edge longer( needs sharpen less often) and takes more time to sharpen with a majority of sharpening materials. If you are dealing with Elmax steel I would recommend that what ever sharpener you get it should have diamond and ceramic stones as these are harder than the knife material and can cut it efficiently unless you are using some belt or grinder system. Since you are a beginner I would recommend that you use a knife sharpening system as you could have more accidents sharpening the knife free hand. Believe me it sucks when you screw up a knife edge while sharpening and you have to spend way too much time fixing your mistakes so the knife can actually cut. In short I would use a test knife in any sharpener to see how it works properly and after you are more confident use the system you choose. Also some of these might be excessive especially if you only have a few knives. Some of the higher end sharpener are what professionals use in their shop (who knows if you get good enough you can make some money).

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1. The Lansky Diamond system ($67) is a great place to start as it has 70/120/280/600 grits but you also have to purchase the C clamp stand ($15 and you do need it as you will get tired holding the thing) and higher grit (1000) ceramic stone ($13) and 2000 grit stone ($12). Leather strops with compound if you want an absolute finish. The only complaint I would have about this system is that the stones are not of the highest quality and stop working as the diamonds fall off. The sharpening guides also are fixed and you have to use a angle measure (your iphone can use its compass app) or some math (trig) to find the position to get an accurate angle throughout the blade. There is a work around stone holder ($60 )That can use Edgepro stones and is longer (better strokes). So with everything but the strop and the 3rd party holder you are looking around $120. $200 with the upgraded stone holder.
   
2. The KME sharpener is very similar concept except that the angle guide is moveable but I must still stress that the angle needs to verified again. Shabazz also explains this in his review. It also has a nicer case. I think you still need to buy the base for this one as well. Like you said it runs around $300 with every thing.
   
3. at $350-575 there is the wicked edge . Hear great things and it will get the job done faster but it is expensive! You can get a Tormek at that price now.
   
4. If you do not want to spend a ton of time sharpening and don't mind belt grinding the Ken Onion Sharpener ($126) is great. Note: it will create a convex edge and if that is something you want great! Video
   
5. Going off the deeper end we have the Tormek T4 ($400-550 or $700 for the full size) which is essentially a wheel grinder made for edge knives and tools. Considered by many to be the best you can get
   
6. There is also the TSprof ($700) which is essentially a bigger top tier KME sharpener. Video
   
7. If you want a simple top tier diamond system DMT Course Set and Fine Set =$200 total. Note that although expensive. These can be used pretty much for decades provided that you take care of them (use diamond abrasive fluid). You can also use water stones but there are so many out there I do not know which brands and how much you could expect to spend with those.
   
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   Note that I only mentioned the higher end sharpening systems under the assumption that money is no objection and you wanted it to sharpen you knife efficiently but I wanted for you to see what types of systems are available are certain price ranges. If not mentioned above you might need a strop and fine compound to get a mirror edge.
   
   Okay now here are some cheaper systems that are similar to some of those above but cheaper.
   
   
8. 5 gen Sharpener (ebay) ($40). This is like the KME Sharpener but cheaper and you can get 3rd party Diamond Plates set (140/400/1000) cheap ($25)
   
9. Edge Pro clone - cheaper end copy of the Edge pro. I think you can also use the diamond plates as it is around the same size.
   
10. Lulu sharpener ($90) if you can find one... it is a copy of the Wicked Edge. Looks like it also uses the Diamond plates mentioned earlier.
    
    ALSO: get a ceramic honing rod ($20). Often times knives just need honing to get back that razor sharp edge and maintaining it with a rod will prolong your edge and mean you sharpen less.
    
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    Hopefully this has helped you somewhat and sorry it took so long to respond, it just takes time to type all of this out(2hrs! where does the time go?) and cite the products. Personally for me, knives for me a fun hobby and it tends to have a meditative effect on me when I sharpen them. I also hope that you come to enjoy sharpening your knives just as much.
    
    ​
    
    And welcome to sharpening!

I'd actually start a little lower if I were you, then work your way up. I started with a Spyderco PM2 ($125ish) and then actually went down to some more budget friendly knives. You can get some TREMENDOUS value out of a few budget blades available right now. Here's a few that I HIGHLY recommend.

Top Pick: Sanrenmu Land 910+ or 9103. I'd choose the 910+ because it's got nice grippy scales and is easier to open/close than the 9103.

Compact, Lightweight, and Classy: Kershaw Atmos. Fantastic action, well known designer, nice and compact.

Workhorse: Spyderco Tenacious. This thing is built to cut. Nice and thin blade stock with a full flat grind, cuts like nothing else. Carries really well too.

Those are three of the best started blades on the market IMO. There's a lot more value in these than in some of the other commonly recommended blades like the Ontario Rats. If you do want to spend your full $100 budget, I'd just pick up all three of these. That way you can figure out exactly what you like before committing to one expensive knife purchase. Plus, once you do, you can hold onto the budget blades for backup knives or sell them over on r/knife_swap.

I hope you find the right knife for you. Good luck!

Yes, I certainly do.

On the low end you have some handheld sharpeners. The Smith's model is iconic and cheap. It gives you an acceptable edge, but it's not going to be good, and once it's loaded with metal it's hard to clean. These are mostly for tackle boxes and backpacks, quick solutions. It really wouldn't do a Benchmade justice.

In the middle, you can buy a guided rod system. The Spyderco Sharpmaker is the best I've seen. Lansky makes a few like this one. These systems do a really good job on pocket knives. The Sharpmaker is a great investment if you plan on dealing with knives for any extended period of time. They can keep a knife very sharp for years. Lansky's systems are relatively inexpensive, but aren't as precise as and lack some of the features of a Sharpmaker. I think the Sharpmaker is an ideal solution.

On the high end, you're looking at sharpening stones. There are two classes, oil and water stones. Oil stones are slower, but water stones are used slightly in the course of sharpening (one might last a decade for me) and are more prone to damage. These let you do repair, produce a more customized edge, and work on a knife's geometry behind the edge, something all knives require eventually. The majority of the time you wouldn't need this level of equipment, but when they come in handy they really come in handy. I use water stones on all of my knives. For most pocket knife users it's much easier and less costly to let a professional do this sort of work and maintain the knife with a rod system. No links here; there are dozens if not hundreds of stones on the market and there's no perfect one. Starting costs are around $150.

At the super duper expensive level, you have advanced assisted sharpening systems like the Edge Pro. These things are slick, easy to use, and ridiculously effective. They should be for the cost. Stones are still more versatile and a lot of the people who use these branch out in many ways.

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

in my opinion, once you get above like ~$250, you arent really getting any better in quality. just different designs, brand names, etc.

my advice is get him a benchmade 940 and be done with it. thats easily the nicest and most popular "expensive, but worth it because its actually really really nice" pocket knife. that company has great customer service and warrenty as well - part of that price tag is the fact that at any point for the rest of his life, if anything goes wrong with it, he can just ship it off to benchmade HQ and they will take care of it and send it back for free. it's a great high quality pocket knife that he will have forever, unless he sells it.

if you think he might like something a little smaller and dressier, the north fork is the same caliber.

another option that's ridiculously popular is the spyderco paramilitary 2

these are all equally high quality knives that are great for every day carry. choosing between them is just personal preference really

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

If you really want a monster sized knife, sure. But I'd definitely get the carbon steel version that some others have suggested as well. It sounds like their quality isn't too bad.

However, I don't know if I'd really want to take something that huge hiking. Maybe SHTF-type hiking I suppose.

A couple of knives that I'd think would be similar priced or less (and have proven reputations) and would slightly more practically fall into the "only 1" category:

• Ka Bar Becker BK2
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK16
  
• Condor Bushlore - there are other Condor models that are great values as well, but might need a little touchup love.
  
• Morakniv - there is even one with a firesteel built into the handle
  
• ESEE 4 (this might be a tad more expensive)
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK7 or BK9 if you really want a huge knife, but I would definitely consider something smaller to piggyback on the sheath.
  
  Good luck regardless!

If you already have a hard time sharpening knives then that thing isn’t going to help.

I’ve had one and let me just say that it’s probably better left for kitchen knives and garden tools.

The worksharp will only do a convex edge. It seems intuitive to use via the marketing material but it’s honestly not. Most pocket knives can’t be sharpened properly either because it’s super easy to roll the tips or you cant properly reach the entire length of the cutting edge.

Some people also claim that it can cause too much heat from friction and negatively affect the heat treat of the steel at the very edge. Consistency is also certainly not easy and is probably the most important aspect of sharping.

Honestly the worksharp seems like gimicky bullshit. Without a doubt, it’s probably great for yardwork tools but that’s about it in my opinion.

If you wanna practice and challenge yourself, try a simple stone system and practice your form. here is one my worksharp.

Well, I prefer a lighter EDC, so i'd recommend the

• Kershaw Skyline
  
  This one is a very nice EDC for most people who use a knife for lighter tasks such as box cutting, opening packages and the like. I would not recommend this for someone who tends to use their knives for "heavier duty" tasks.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek
  
  Pretty much the same recommendation criteria as the Skyline, but this knife is both spring assisted, and has a more "delicate" point.
  
  
• Spyderco Delica
  
  Probably one of the most recommended knives for someone who wants an overall solid EDC at the price point with a lot of versatility and good overall durability. I own one myself, and this one is great for EDC.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 2
  
  The Ontario knife company really hit it out of the park with the RAT series, the Ontario RAT model II is a better choice for EDC over the RAT model I, mainly because the knife is a bit smaller putting it at about 2.75" blade and less "intimidating" for someone who needs for EDC.
  
  
• ESEE Izula
  
  I really like the Izula as a fixed blade EDC knife, it's a fucking tank and you can be sure you can rely on it everywhere, but it does lose some versatility and convenience because it isn't a folder.
  
  --------------------------------------------------
  
  Please keep in mind that these are just my suggestions and reviews, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me anything.
  

Well, it's not made in the USA, but this knife from Kizer is a pretty outstanding value for your budget.

Might not seem like an upgrade, but the Crow 2 and Raven 2 from Spyderco's Byrd line are made from very nice materials.

The next step up in Spyderco would be the Delica.

A good made-in-the-USA model would be the Kershaw Leek.

There are a bunch of good options out there in your price range, so happy hunting!

If you decide you're ok with trying freehand, this is what I use.

Smith's 50448 6-Inch Diamond Tri-Hone Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0MKNEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nMVIAb4WAFXJV


I sharpen my knives that I use and also for my family and friends. I've been very happy with this since it condensed what i needed. I also have a leather strop. I recommend picking up a rat or cheap spyderco, practice on it, then move to better knives. You can then gift the now super sharp knife to a friend

I'm going to recommend a few knives to get you started:

1. A Tangram Knives Santa Fe (made by Kizer) (in brown or black) - $30
   
   
2. An Opinel No. 6 (there are several options here) - $13.86 (for the walnut handle one, but choose whichever you like)
   
   
3. A Victorinox Classic SD (many options) - $15.95 (for this black one, if you want to keep it simple)
   
   Total price: $59.81. These three knives would be an excellent start to the addiction. The Tangram is probably the best made knife in that price range of any knives I've handled. The Opinel 6 is an absolute classic and would be perfect for situations where you want something light and inoffensive. The Victorinox Classic SD is one of the most useful little tools out there, especially those tiny scissors.

Check woot.com every now and then, they have new deals every day and often feature Kershaw blades. I picked up the Injection 3 the other day from sport.woot.com for a grand total of $21 shipped. It's a little bigger than what I expected because i stupidly didn't even glance at the specs, but I'm liking it so far. It has solid lockup, a big blade with a deep belly, and the action is pretty smooth. The only drawback is that it's missing a flipper.

I also have a Kershaw OD-2 and it is a fantastic small EDC knife, but it might be a little too small for the type of things you're going to be doing. The flipper action is absolutely perfect though, it's as smooth as butter. I find myself playing with it all the time because it's just so damn satisfying.

One thing to keep in mind- plain edge is good for most tasks, but if you're cutting rope/cord like you say you are, some people prefer a serrated edge. Serrated edges are a bitch and a half to sharpen though.

If you're looking for a fixed-blade rather than a folder, I'd go with Mora, they offer carbon steel which is harder, but will rust if you get it wet and don't oil it, and stainless, if you're working in a wet-ish environment. They cost less than $15, they're great quality for the money and they will take a hell of a beating. Plus, if you manage to break it, you'll have that other $15 left over to buy a new one! I picked up a Craftline HighQ Robust recently and it was money well spent.

I haven't used a bushcraft, but I do have the HighQ Robust and that is a lot of knife for $14.

I do like the idea of blaze orange, but I don't know that it would be enough for me to justify the added expense.

No matter what, a Mora is not going to let you or your brother down - he is pretty much guaranteed to love whichever model you get him.

One word of advice - if he is unfamiliar with the scandi grind, he may want to find a video or two on youtube. They are super easy to sharpen, but if you try to put a secondary bevel on it (as you would with most knives), it could end up being a bad time.

I'm going to say the Tangram line by Kizer is a good way to go. Sub $50, with a few good options. My personal favorite is the Santa Fe, which is a 3.35" blade, with G10 handles, and an Acuto 440 blade. Mine has held up great so far, and it's plenty light.

EDIT: Here is an Amazon link. It's plenty under budget, and my favorite budget knife overall.

I was in almost the exact same position recently. I had purchased a Flash I and was quite disappointed with it. I decided to give SOG another chance and picked up a Twitch I, since, like you, I enjoy small knives.

First, it's real small. About the size of a Spyderco Ladybug. But unlike that tiny classic, the size of the Flash I works against it: as an assisted flipper, your fingers have very little real estate to activate the flipper action [which by the way is incredibly stiff on mine]. I find it has similar issues when it comes to deactivating the back lock.

Like my Flash, the Twitch came to me with substantial side-to-side blade play, and tightening the pivot does nothing to remove it. It doesn't have the nasty flex that my Flash does, nor does it rattle like a tin can, but in general I find the fit and finish to be similarly cheap.

I would recommend against it, and for my part will not be buying any more SOG products at this point. If you're looking for a good, small flipper at a budget price, check out the Kershaw OD-2.

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

Since you like the Sheepdog with its sheepsfoot blade, I'd suggest a Tangram Santa Fe as a good starter knife. It's regarded to be a great value for the price, and well built knife overall. The CRKT Pilar might be another good choice for entry level.

I recommend this a lot, but the work sharp guided bench stones are great to learn on. The stones are diamond, so they'll handle any supersteel and the little guides on the end are unobtrusive but really help to get a feel of what the angles should be. It's also around the price of a sharpmaker but will build your freehanding skills. Oh, and get the upgrade kit for quick reprofiling and a shinier edge.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X9KU3GO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1494366178&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Work+sharp&dpPl=1&dpID=41nt%2B0fEixL&ref=plSrch

Personally, as a nurse myself, I don't carry a knife while at the hospital, but instead trauma shears and maybe a pry bar like a Gerber Shard. I haven't run into a situation yet that the shears or the pry bar haven't able to do and it isn't as intimidating to patients or visitors.



However if you do need a small knife, just like everyone else suggests, the Dragonfly 2 is exceptional.

I have the ZDP-189 version of the Dragonfly and it is perfect for EDC.

If you looking for an even smaller folder check out the Manbug which also does come in a [ZDP-189 variant]
(http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-British-Racing-ZDP-189-Plain/dp/B0089DFLSQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1420580166&sr=8-5&keywords=spyderco+zdp-189). Just be aware that these do not come with pocket clip (I think).

lmao you are right, it was more than one water bottle, i stabbed like 20. but i don't think its from that. i think its from stabbing some strong ass tape. Tape so strong i think it resisted the sharp tip a bit, and maybe it slid from the tape to the piece of metal (encased in tape). I was trying to remove the tape. Fuck!

I am guessing i need some diamond bit or diamond stone to shave this tip down? Anyone know how I would 'sharpen' the spine like /u/leftnose said? Now i really want some DMT diafolds ugh.


Would you sharpen or file down the entire spine to keep it even or just the area near the tip? Does the angle of the stroke matter like going with or against the grain?

I guess i don't technically need 'diamond' coated since it isn't the edge that is the issue, its the spine and the spine doesn't need the vanadium i am really just guessing/presuming here...

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Which of these products you think would be best for s110v maintenance?:

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-FWFC-Double-Diafold-Sharpener/dp/B00004WFTW

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-FWEEE-Double-Diafold-Sharpener/dp/B001EIE01W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=489A0DQ8PWR6XTMYE08H#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-FWEF-Diafold-Sharpener-Extra-Fine/dp/B00004WFTV/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=489A0DQ8PWR6XTMYE08H#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DCS4-4-Inch-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B00009YV6L/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=489A0DQ8PWR6XTMYE08H

I really like the Mora HighQ Robust. For $16 it has stood up to whatever I've thrown at it on 1-2 day trips. And for that reason I can't seem to justify spending more on a woods blade that I'm just going to beat up anyhow. I really like the idea of the 01, 3V, or even S30V blades, but honestly I think it's kind of overkill for what I need. The edge retention is fine on the Mora and there's something to be said for being able to strop a blade back to razor sharp in just a few strokes out in the field and the Moras do that beautifully.

Kershaw Half-ton is a fun little pint size to have in the collection, but I wouldn't EDC it. And its dirt cheap.

As for EDC worthy, love me some dragonfly. Also hear lots of good things about the Cold Steel Mini Tuff Lite

I feel like I'm starting to sound like some kind of evangelist on this topic lately, but my opinion is that if you are going to own good knives, you owe it to yourself to learn to sharpen without an assist device. You'll get all sorts of suggestions for sharpening systems and such. Those all have their place, but they should all follow after learning to sharpen on a stone. Get the fundamentals before you start using them. With that, I'll give you my recommendation.

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-50448-Diamond-Tri-Hone-Sharpener/dp/B00C0MKNEE

This is a great bench stone kit. It will sharpen any steel in existence, it's inexpensive, and it will last you a very long time. For S30V, you want diamonds. Arkansas stones won't cut it well, but diamonds will eat it for breakfast.

Assuming you don't have a sharpening system already, I'd recommend a Victorinox Fibrox 7-Inch Granton Edge Santoku Knife and a Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker. Without a good sharpening system, no knife will be of any use, no matter how expensive or nice. And the Victorinox line of kitchen knives are a joy to use and it's easy to get a very fine edge on them with the sharp maker (I use a Victorinox Fibrox 8-Inch Chef's Knife).

The total will be more like $118, but trust me, it's worth it.

I feel like no one around here believes me but this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500342586&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=work+sharp+ken+onion&dpPl=1&dpID=41LvBs0PCZL&ref=plSrch
Will accomplish that pretty easily.

Haha, awesome! Where do you recommend getting one? Is this alright?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TXMFQQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

FRN Spyderco Native is a back-lock but gets you S30V under $100.

Spyderco Dragonfly 2 in ZDP189 is also a back-lock but is legal pretty much anywhere and has a kickass steel for under $70.

Honestly though, as a Sage owner... just bite the bullet and get the Sage. Or maybe look at building your own S30V Mini Grip.

Hey a blur is a great option if that's what he has. Get the S30V version if you want to stick with that same knife but upgrade to the best version.

For fishing I would use a stainless Mora, as although being great tools they are dirt cheap and you can replace them fairly easily.

As for self defense - I don't recommend practicing self defense with a knife (for legal reasons), you will probably be much better with a decent Sabre Pepper Spray.

I’ve had this Tojiro Gyuto for about 6 months now and absolutely love it. Definitely recommended.

SRM (SanRenMu) Land 910 with G10 scales and a liner lock costs $25. This opens with thumb studs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0796TRTBM/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BGC4RDH/

If it comes with a sharpener just toss it into the trash because it sucks. The stainless steel framelock version is good but the handles can get a little slick.

If you prefer a flipper then there's the Ruike P121 Hussar for $35.

If you just want a utility knife the there's the Cold Steel Tuff Lite for $25.

I would buy one of these and a strop or save for a sharpening system like a Lansky.

Kershaw OD-2

It's not really a collectors item but it's cheap and small...and pretty good imo.

The answer to that will depend on your experience and ability to care for your knives.

TL;DR: In the category of budget knives. For longer lasting edges, Tojiro DP Santoku or Gyuto for $43 and 52, respectively. For easier maintenance, Cangshan D or Henckels Forged Synergy for $30 and $35, respectively.



As a caveat, budget knives of all sorts are not going to have the fit and finish of higher priced knives. For Knives that are easy to obtain lump you into two categories that have pros and cons, German hardness and Japanese hardness. Which is mainly a trade off between sharpness/edge holding vs durability/ease of maintenance. Although you can sharpen really soft metals to be stupid sharp and a really acute angle, it will not last long at all. But when the edge gets rolled over from a cutting session, it can be easily honed back into place. Harder knives can still be honed back into place, but techniques and tools are slightly different--I would never touch my harder knives with a grooved steel.

German hardness is usually around 56-58 hrc. Hard enough to hold an edge for a bit, but soft enough to not chip and easily steel/hone back into place.

The Victorinox Fibrox at about 55 hrc used to be suggested all the time when it was $20 and even when it was about $35. But now that it is $45, that's just too much for what is a very cheap knife.

A couple knives still in this range, which are better quality than the fibrox anyway are:
The Cangshan D Series 59120 German Steel Forged Chef's Knife at 56-60 hrc for $30

http://www.amazon.com/Cangshan-59120-German-Forged-8-Inch/dp/B013KZDVRA

and The Henckels International Forged Synergy 8-inch Chef's Knife at about 57-58 hrc for $35

http://www.amazon.com/HENCKELS-INTERNATIONAL-Forged-Synergy-8-inch/dp/B000FMVS4A

Henckels International (not regular Henckels) used to be really bad because they made their knives to 53-55 hrc, which is way too soft to hold an edge to get through a cooking session without nearly constant honing. I've heard their international classics are still being made w/ the crappy steel.


Japanese hardness is usually at least 59 hrc, with a good chunk in the 60-62 range. This means potentially better, longer lasting cutting performance between honing/sharpening. The tradeoff is that it becomes more difficult to get to this stage without specialty tools or sending it to a professional sharpener. At this point I personally don't even consider knives under 59 hrc, unless it's something that really takes a beating.

For the cheapest price point, while still having quality. I would really only recommend the Tojiro DP at 60-61 hrc. It used to be about double the prices, but the grinds also used to be more even. Either way, it's still a great buy.

The chef/gyuto is $52

http://www.amazon.com/Tojiro-DP-Gyutou-8-2-21cm/dp/B000UAPQGS/

And the Santoku is $43

http://www.amazon.com/Tojiro-DP-Santoku-6-7-17cm/dp/B000UAPQEA/

So the main difference here is whatever knife shape you prefer. I've gotten some cheaper harder steel knives, but I've had to do way too much touching up to be recommended.

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Amazon Product | Tojiro DP Gyutou - 8.2" (21cm)
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You can send it in OR buy a Lanksy turn box for very cheap and get a nice little sharpening done yourself. It's very easy to learn on that box, I like it quite much.
https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Turn-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B000B8FW0E

I recently bought a PM2 from Amazon. One thing I noticed was multiple listings for it and at different prices.

I got the all black. http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-ParaMilitary2-Black-Blade-PlainEdge/dp/B004TXMFQQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Here it is for $30 more.
http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-ParaMilitary2-Camo-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B004VZVI88?ie=UTF8&keywords=spyderco%20paramilitary%202&qid=1464034297&ref_=sr_1_1&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Pretty sure mine is legit and I will compare g10 scales tonight.

Cool man, welcome to the obsession. You should look into getting a sharpener next.

The lansky turn box is a great entry level one for cheap.


https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Turn-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B000B8FW0E

Kershaw cryo is nice, solid steel scales and a stop pin so you can't over stress the framelock and best of all, it's cheap for the quality

Okay,
this is a fantastic lubricant

this is a fantastic sharpener

I do not recommend going to Walmart or a general sporting goods store. They hire people who don't specialise in knives ( unless they have a personal interest ) and aren't very aware of better products.

That's good.

https://www.amazon.ca/Spyderco-Delica-Ground-Plain-Knife/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521669140&sr=8-1&keywords=delica

Here's the Delica for $90, that is a lot it's definitely worth it.

I also have the WorkSharp guided sharpener (https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSGSS-Guided-Sharpening/dp/B00X9KU3GO) which I could take the guiudes off and practice free hand. I've heard DMT plates are the way to go though

My fav low cost camp knife Condor Bushlore. The knife is awesome and the leather sheath rivals knives that cost 3x the money.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CC6BPM?pc_redir=1404826492&robot_redir=1

Kershaw Blur in s30v would be my suggestion.

It's assisted and has good steel. About 20 cm overall length open, so not too large, but not too small. And it's on sale. :)

I'll see if I can think of some others.

i have been using the worksharp guided field sharpener and the worksharp guided (table top) sharpener for a few years now. very happy with them. in fact the "field" sharpener thats handy portable sized. i have 3 of them. home, backpack, hunting pack etc...

​

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSGSS-Sharpening-sharpening/dp/B00X9KU3GO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8IJR6ZKE3AL2&keywords=guided+sharpener&qid=1554681979&s=gateway&sprefix=guided+sh%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3

​

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Guided-Field-Sharpener/dp/B009YKHZ96/ref=sr_1_2?crid=8IJR6ZKE3AL2&keywords=guided+sharpener&qid=1554682004&s=gateway&sprefix=guided+sh%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-2

​

$30 is a great deal for a Tenacious these days. However, if you want something a bit more pocket-friendly then here is something to consider:

https://www.amazon.com/Tangram-Folding-Pocket-inches-TG3002A1/dp/B075N689CH/

Kershaw anything-with-SpeedSafe

S30V Blur is a great option

likely a belt type sharpening system like the worksharp ken onion edition, with some practice you too can put edges on your own knives like this - https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-KO-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499885302&sr=8-2&keywords=ken+onion+worksharp+belts

Victorinox Chef Knife has amazing bang for buck.

What are you basing that on, your meticulous tracking of Amazon prices?

https://camelcamelcamel.com/Spyderco-Paramilitary2-Black-Blade-Plainedge/product/B004TXMFQQ

Some pretty big deltas there. It reached $99 a few months ago, almost exactly $40 less than the typical $138 MAP. Did their inventory turn into fakes that day? Who said this guy didn't buy it in a matter of minutes? You sure are backpedaling on your guarantee that they are all fakes at that price.

Depends on how high end you want to go, really. My favorite brand is Masakage or Shiki.

If you're rocking a Vnox though the next reasonable step up is the Tojiro DP

$100 - Wusthof 8" Chefs Knife



$40 - J.A. Henckels 8" Chefs Knife


$35 - Victorinox Fibrox (If you want the Victorinox but don't like the handle, get the rosewood version for a couple bucks more)

Then get their corresponding utility/paring knives for smaller/finer work. Personally, I went with the Henckels I listed mainly for aesthetics and value and got a Tojiro DP Petty Knife, mainly because I'm used to heavy western chef knives but I also wanted to try out a Japanese style kitchen knife. Learn to handle a knife properly, get a good cutting board (end-grain wood boards ideally), and they should last you for life.

They're very solid and have great blade steel for the money. I can't think of a better fixed-blade beater knife at such a low price point. I got this one and use it mainly for gardening.

To piggyback on your question, does anyone have experience with the Work Sharp? I'm looking for a system that can also do my recurves and this one gets really good reviews.

Here ya go It's a helluva hunk of a knife. Just got mine a couple of days ago. Clips right on to your belt, and has a knob that you can hang your other Mora from. even the spine of the blade was polished, which is a nice touch for Mora.

What kind of craftline do you have already?

Condor Bushlore
It does have a bit of a micro-bevel but that can easily be sharpened out to a zero grind Scandi.

The Diafold is a good double-sided stone.

85https://www.amazon.ca/Spyderco-Delica-Ground-Plain-Knife/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549287248&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spyderco+delica&dpPl=1&dpID=41s92VXupUL&ref=plSrch


Would you recommend this? Keep in mind its cdn dollars

I have one of these. Aside from a nice, dark patina on my blade, it's the same as when I bought it. It's a bit thicker blade than the standard stainless.

Victorinox Fibrox is the best bang for the buck around. 4.8/5 stars with almost 2,200 reviews, hard to argue with that.

Beyond that is mostly aesthetics.

Would anyone here recommend this belt sharpener from Work Sharp?

Work Sharp WSKTS-KO Knife and Tool Sharpener Ken Onion Edition

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lTLKzbNHCEEDZ

Yep, that's this one.

You should never use the pull-through portion of that sharpener and the rod gives you no way of maintaining a consistent angle. This would be a lot more effective and versatile for about the same price.

I bet he'd be really surprised if you got him one of these, insanely high quality for the price: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Stainless-4-1-Inch/dp/B00BTJKB00/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417826081&sr=8-1&keywords=morakniv

Warriors and wonders has PM2's in stock

Amazon.ca has a few as well : Camo/Satin, Black/Satin, Black/Black

Kershaw cryo ii

Or

Spyderco tenacious

And a sharpener:

Smiths tri stone

Or

Lansky 5 stone system

Because a knife ain't shit if you can't sharpen it.

The s30v version is only 54 at Amazon.


Kershaw Blur S30V Folding Pocket Knife (1670S30V); 3.4” S30V Blade with Stonewashed Finish and Anodized Aluminum Handle with Trac-Tec Inserts, SpeedSafe Assisted Opening, Reversible Pocketclip; 4 OZ


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Uwj8BbJ1E68YR

The kershaw blur in S30V is an amazon deal of the day. Kershaw Blur S30V Folding Pocket Knife (1670S30V); 3.4” S30V Blade with Stonewashed Finish and Anodized Aluminum Handle with Trac-Tec Inserts, SpeedSafe Assisted Opening, Reversible Pocketclip; 4 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xun8BbXGBXX84

Right now on amazon you can get a Cryo2 for $30.

If I understand your question correctly, I would choose to EDC this double sided DMT sharpener in coarse/fine:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WFTW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3CMSBL1HL0JX0&coliid=IOLBH44PXRS3F&psc=1

Is this the one?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8FW0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B8FW0E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467999946&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=lansky+turn+box&dpPl=1&dpID=31Di3Tb2fhL&ref=plSrch

This?

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Crock-Sharpener-LCD5D/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376941910&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky+turn+box

Does anyone have any experience with this kit?
http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Crock-Sharpener-LCD5D/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1420399705&sr=8-8&keywords=lansky+sharpener

Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Turn-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3NXU9W1Q4DYRO&keywords=lansky+4+rod+turn+box+knife+sharpener&qid=1564075158&s=gateway&sprefix=Lansky+4+rod%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-10

It’s not high end, but it’ll do the job.

I'd recomend a Tojiro DP in whatever size works for you.

https://smile.amazon.com/Tojiro-DP-Gyutou-8-2-21cm/dp/B000UAPQGS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480055085&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Tojiro+DP&psc=1&smid=A2BAL6XLDRWVRH

Kershaw S30V Blur Knife with Steel Blade with SpeedSafe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_he8kxbQ3CVFDS

Cold Steel 20MT Mini Tuff Lite Plain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MNAKYM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kOdQub1G794WP

Ive gotten used to one hans opening but might need 2 hands for some people. Comes in other neon colors too.

Or:

Spyderco Dragonfly2 Lightweight Black FRN PlainEdge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GUL6IA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HRdQub0CW8JGJ

http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Dragonfly2-Brithish-ZDP-189-PlainEdge/dp/B004VG77R8

http://www.bladehq.com/item--Chris-Reeve-Sebenza-21--2359

you were saying...

They are $33 on amazon.

Was debating between that and Guided Sharpening System Work Sharp https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00X9KU3GO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_u7xsDb0EM69Z7

As temporary options

Here are a few options:

Tangram Santa Fe

Kizer Dukes

Ontario Rat 1

Steel Will Cutjack

Tangram Santa Fe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075N689CH/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511217739&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

The pull through is the worst thing you can use.

If it is for a Spyderco Bug, I assume it will not be hard use and all you have to do is to maintain the edge.

Here are some ways you can do so:

• Use the underside of a ceramic mug to hone your edge (FREE)
  
  
• Arkansas Ceramic Rod ($2.39 - 5.91)
  
  
• DMT Mini-Sharp (Get the Fine or Extra Fine) ($8.56 - 9.99)
  
  
• [Lansky Turnbox (a.k.a Discount Spyderco Sharpmaker)](https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Crock-Sharpener-LCD5D/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=sr_1_7? ie=UTF8&qid=1467990733&sr=8-7&keywords=ceramic+rod) ($14.09)
  
  Honestly, If you're really strapped for cash and pinching pennies, the Turnbox is the most reliable system you can get on a budget and it'll go a long, long way.

Lansky 4-rod Turn Box Crock Stick Sharpener
It's a poor man's Sharpmaker. I used one for years until I got a Sharpmaker.
https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Crock-Sharpener-LCD5D/dp/B000B8FW0E

Carbide sharpeners chew up and spit out edges. They peel off steel and leave behind a jagedy burred up edge. I'd suggest looking into getting a Lansky Turn box. They are between $16 and $20 dollars, and they will get your knife sharp if you go through the proper motions. Which are like 20 strokes per side (5 strokes then switch sides and repeat) (depends on were the edge is at in wear) on each of the rods then five alternating strokes extremely lightly. Most knives you just have to hold vertical, and if the edge angle is too wide you tilt it a bit until the stones are hitting the edge. You can tell this by marking the edge with a sharpie. The stone will rub of the sharpie where it is contacting the bevel.

The Lansky Turnbox is essentially a poor man's Spyderco Sharpmaker and both systems are literally idiot proof. They will get you a hair popping edge that will make factory edges feel dull in comparison.

You'll probably be able to find a Lansky Turn box at a local sporting goods store. Here is a link for it on Amazon so you know what you are looking for.