(Part 2) Best products from r/knifemaking

If you like wet grinding (like I do) get this + this. The mist system requires an air compressor but it doesn't have to be a big one, I just use a pancake compressor. There are several brands of grinding fluid you can use, I just linked that one as an example, but Maxim oil has the best priced one. That stuff is great, you get a better finish and you can use it for everything you use oil for without the stinky oil everywhere, annoying rust spots will be a thing of the past.

personally i tried the drill bit thing, but if you dont have a surface plate then theres no gaurentee you will hit center. I bouth one if these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019O501A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has been a god send. Also, its awesome for making sure your bevel is even and has a million other applications like measuring for your pins. For marking center, like others have said, I paint the stock with Dykum blue, then use the calipers to scribe center.

I just had a similar problem this weekend with some wenge scales I was working with, I didn't like how dark and uniform everything looked when oiled. I ended up getting a few 4" buffing wheels and some compounds. I put the wheels in my drill press (probably not the best idea but it's what I have) at about 1500 RPM. I went with brown tripoli then white diamond compounds, wiping the handle with a microfiber cloth in between. Then I wiped on a layer of Renaissance Wax, let it dry, and finally gently buffed it with a clean wheel in my hand drill. The result is a clear glossy finish that really shows off the differences in the dark and light bands of wood. I think it's going to be my go-to finish for harder woods that already have a lot of color and don't really benefit from oiling.

The bolster that's used on a lot of german chef's knives is really comfortable, but that's the only good thing I can say about it--I consider this feature to be a major design flaw. As you sharpen your knife, the edge starts to recede past the bolster and you end up with an area that doesn't touch the cutting board right in the most important part of the blade. The only way to solve this problem is to grind the bolster back once in a while, which is major surgery that most people can't do. I've seen plenty of lower quality knives that come from the factory with this dead spot already there. Bob Kramer makes some of the best european chef's knives in the world. He has the skill to do whatever he wants to do, and discerning customers who know what they want--his knives are sharp all the way to the heel.

There are a few knives (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Henckels-Zwilling-Pro-Chefs-Knife/dp/B007I1PLO4) that combine a forward, integral bolster with a full edge, but you don't need an integral bolster (or any kind of bolster) to make that work.

I'd say it's doable, especially with the equipment you've listed.

Find a copy of this book if you can. Best resource out there for building folders.

Use a quality waterjet provider and you can jet out the knives with little cleanup. You'll still have to clean up holes though... ream the pivots, drill and tap the other holes, etc.

Most people assemble the whole knife and get the opening+lockup working properly before they heat treat and grind bevels. It requires a lot of fit-up, taking apart, etc to get everything working properly... you probably won't be able to make the blade then work on the frame while it's in HT.

Make a jig to grind bevels if you don't have experience free-handing. There are simple ones that work very well.

Read read read. There are lots of WIP threads on the forums that will help you. Knifedogs, BF Shop Talk, Britishblades, etc.

> I don't want to reinvent the wheel, I just want a small pizza cutter with little play and spins forever.

I've got one of these Everhard brand steel rollers. I was never intending to use it for its stated purpose (roofing), and it didn't really work out for what I was intending (not important), but I can confirm it's high quality and spins forever, akin to a fidget toy.

I googled, and they do make a sharp version which ought to suit you. What I haven't found for you though, is a vendor that sells those straight to consumers; amazon doesn't seem to stock them. Good luck!

I think you'll find that there is more material out there for slipjoints than lockbacks, but there is some stuff. Here is a decent list of folding knife work-in-progress posts and tutorials on the Knife Dogs forums. It has tons of tutorials and WIPs, for folders of all kinds as well as fixed blades and just general knifemaking techniques. I also have this book, which is very good. One more option would be to buy a lockback kit from a knifemaker supply shop, like USA Knifemaker and copy the pattern or something.

I've been using this, works really well. And it's non toxic.
EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 32 oz Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V2GXD5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kX1vtLauFZQWh

Would you reccomend something like this then? Not sure on grits to use,

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Sharp-Continuous-Sharpening-Adjustable/dp/B0791MDFLX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527679054&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=diamond+sharpening+stone&psc=1

I have a cheap 4 sided diamond stone from harbor freight, but it seems pretty much like junk, not even close to flat.

I use a regulated power supply. Similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RNT1CD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_69N1DbPAKQTZV

You want to make sure to use DC (Direct Current) and not an AC(Alternating Current. The regulated power supply lets you adjust the current and give more control. I use 5VDC for Carbon Steels and 12-25VDC for Stainless. I put the Positive on they item I want to etch and the Negative on a bolt with rubber bands holding a cotton balls on it. I use just salt water. Always keep it moving around when you are etching. I finish with a brass wire wheel to clean up. I get my stencils made from a local vinyl shop. They work great for me.

The cheapest way? If you're using a Gough jig, you can use a protractor to rig your angle, and tightly wrap your file in 220 grit sandpaper (you can also use a piece of flat steel for more precision). Then progress through the grits, raising a burr each time. Use the rough side old leather belt (I stole one of my husband's) as a strop. Green Polishing Compound on an old belt after using 2500 grit sandpaper will get you plenty sharp.

I sharpened our kitchen knives for a couple years before starting bladesmithing using this method. It'll easily create a good shaving edge, and is much faster than a lansky

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518120890&sr=8-2&keywords=o1+tool+steel+flat+stock

EDIT: If you go this route, most options are prime eligible, but make sure you check stock sizes a little bigger or smaller than your ideal size. The price can vary wildly. For example, I was buying 3/16x1x36 for $50, then found that 5/32 was $25.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8IEA4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8L6NG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Lansky deluxe and stand. Got my knife from 0 to 100 in less than 20 minutes. Gough on youtube has a great video on how to effectively use it.

Not to endorse a specific vendor, but I just ordered this:
http://www.amazon.com/Scrap-Leather-Medium-Brown-Cowhide/dp/B006UUHUDO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and made a sheath from it today.

Having done this a few times, my best recommendation to you is to get 6-7 oz leather of whatever color floats your boat.

What kind of stitching do you do? I use an awl with two needles, per the instructions in this book: http://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1464597294&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=hand+stiching+leather

As for the handles: yes, epoxy every surface and every hole. I epoxy around the pins too, just to be sure everything gets coated. Keep some rubbing alcohol or acetone and paper towels or q tips around to wipe off excess and squeeze-out. This will save time spent scraping later! Don't clamp too tightly or all the epoxy will get squeezed out.

As for engraving, look up acid etching. I haven't done it myself, but I've seen others do it. Alternatively, I think something like this might work.

>When I took the blade out of the kiln it did have some carbon on it and it was not cherry red

What color was it?
Were you outside? had bright lighting on?

Color is not particularly reliable unless you have the experience to associate those colors with temperature. 'cherry red' in particular is just too vague. its not even consistent fruit to fruit, cherry red is just too subjective.

and if it hardened satisfactorily then the color isnt really relevent.
get yourself some hardness testing files, find out the facts, not what you think a blade should look like

West Chester 7010 Heat Resistant Leather Apron, 24" Width x 42" Height, Tan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UU84LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Amu3xbEN1ANDX

I've had this one for a few years. I've only put it through light use, mostly when I heat treat my knives in a charcoal bed or my homemade propane forge. It works fine I have nothing bad to say about this. The pocket is kinda small I don't use it anyway. I hope this helped.

what else would i need to add to these tools

Tools needed


Drill press

http://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1422478362&sr=1-1

80$


Angle Grinder

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder-9557NB/202105761

70$

Cutoff wheel and flap wheel

10$

cabinet makers rasp
http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Half-Round-American-Pattern-Length/dp/B006P2X4Q4/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1422479106&sr=1-4&keywords=cabinet+rasp

20$

bench vise

30$


also from what i understand when I am making the blade do I just grind it so it is thing and sharp at the bottom and thicker on the top??

Here is the mobile version of your link