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There's a lot of different directions that you could go in, depending on what you want. The best sharpening is done on bench stones, but they have a learning curve. You can also use a jig system like the lansky and get good results. These are great because you can set an angle and keep it, but you are limited in the number of angles you can set (bench stones obviously are not).

I wouldn't recommend either of the sets you list, as they each have three pieces but all of them are basically the same grit. What is your price range?

I really think the best bang for your buck is the basic lansky system: https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Standard-Coarse-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8L6LI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493602647&sr=8-3&keywords=lansky+system

It's pretty inexpensive for the basic set (the diamond set is worth it if you want to spend the extra money), pretty easy to use, and works well for most knives.

There are lots of videos on youtube that show good sharpening technique for bench stones. Murray Carter (master bladesmith) has a good dvd series on sharpening if you want to go down the free-hand route.

i am a big fan of DMT diamond stones. Course, Fine and Extra fine is likely all you need. I have the extra, extra fine as well and nice but you don't need it. A bit spendy but worth it. They are fast cutting, Stay flat unlike water stones and clean since you only need to use a little water to wash away the swarf. I keep a spray bottle of window cleaner near the stone to use.

Another option is Arkansas Tri stone setup I have used this set up and it works great. You still might want to get a cheap course stone if you have blades with a bad edge. But it is a good deal for a stone set and they are longer lasting and stay flatter then water stones but are the slowest cutting. Use a light oil like mineral oil or kerosene to help them cut quicker. Lubricating oils are the opposite of what you want.

Since I wanted to try out water stones I picked up one the Bearmoo combo stones in 1000/4000 grit for the kitchen. It works just as advertises, quick cutting, only needs water, good price. But like all water stones you do need to keep an eye on the flatness of the stones. But still a good deal.


Getting a good setup for stropping will also go along way in helping get that razor sharp edge.

So there you go a few options for you you to think about (get the DMT). let me know if you have other questions.

Yeah ill just copy paste something i sent someone else who had a 300 dollar budget. The only real big things id say you NEED are a few hand files, a bench vise and the steel to make from. Otherwise look into the 1x30 sander and some belts that are linked. Pick through it, all the links have prices in them so let me know what you think!

Okay going to make this short and concise. These are all my opinions to make blades.

• Steel from here (start with 1084 or 1095 and you can either start with .156 or .187 for thickness (.187 is on the THICK side), or you can also get .125 thick for thinner projects. And 1.5 inches wide is the smallest i would go, or you can get 2 inches wide to be safe)
  
  
• Lots of different files, this one will help to start with though
  
  
  
• This belt sander does amazing to start out with
  
  
  Going to need lots of belts for it, here are some. Would suggest getting the 50 grit (please remember he will need multiple amounts of these so get a few of them). I would also suggest grabbing the 120 grit to take some deep scratches out. However the 320 isn't necessary as you can do all that by hand with regular sand paper.
  
  
• 1x30 50grit
  
  
• 1x30 120grit
  
  
• 1x30 320grit
  
  
  Hopefully in the yard or somewhere he can have a workbench set up because having a benchvise is such a luxury.
  
  
• This vice would do the trick
  
  
  
• The magical angle grinder, you can pick this up locally or order online
  
  
• It will need some of these
  
  
  Hand sanding paper (The fun stuff)
  
  
• 320grit
  
  
• 600grit
  
  
• 1000grit
  
  
  Also a sharpening stone will be very helpful however i don't have much knowledge as the best way to go with these. After doing some research, This stone seems like it would do the trick for the most part
  
  I forgot about these, 2 should be okay if he doesnt already have some
  
  
  Assuming you do not buy the 320 grit belts, and buy (5) 50 grit, and (5) 120 grit belts.
  
  The total comes to right around 308.36
  
  Would like to note that all of this is for making the process easier. You can do all of this with 1 bench vise, 1 hand file, a hack saw and some steel. It would just take a long time and be extra tough! But absolutely doable without all of these gadgets
  
  
  And heres a coupon for anything at Harbor Freight 25% off! http://www.dealsoff.com/images/harbor-freight-25.jpg
  
  and this one http://www.harborfreight.com/20off-coupon912-aff-17573.html?utm_source=cj&utm_medium=aff&utm_campaign=wts-coupons&hftref=cj
  

Bastard files with remove the most metal of all other file grinds.

I got started making knives several years back using a hand jig inspired by Aaron Gough.

Here's a link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ

You can find several more youtube video's on the subject.

Your design looks pretty good, I would recommend doing one blade from start to finish until you perfect your process. 6 mm stock is pretty thick so you might want to skeletonize the handle a bit to better balance the blade and reduce weight. Here is a link to an example:

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https://www.knifecenter.com/item/WTWRATK/white-river-knives-owen-baker-jr-atk-always-there-knife-s35vn-stonewashed-blade-skeletonized-handle-kydex-sheath

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be careful not to take out too much material just behind where the knife meets the handle, this can create a weak point if you decide to baton with the knife.

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I would get a step of bit for drilling pin holes and skeletonize the knife, I like this one. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWA1783IR-8-Inch-1-2-Inch-IMPACT/dp/B0090IHBL4/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?gclid=Cj0KCQiAn8nuBRCzARIsAJcdIfNba4wvdHAT8G-Xw7-192SSo25KbGIIFRTaciL4vTm_fm1Ye7TqVvoaAignEALw_wcB&hvadid=153692517255&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031951&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1119223531089504081&hvtargid=aud-837686656069%3Akwd-6841401801&hydadcr=1611_9512018&keywords=dewalt+step+bit&pd_rd_i=B0090IHBL4&pd_rd_r=3301b045-680f-4746-bf0c-1409a9698aae&pd_rd_w=U7oJ6&pd_rd_wg=l4rot&pf_rd_p=1cb3f32a-ccfd-479b-8a13-b22f56c942c6&pf_rd_r=HW4NWM70PNESNP2QKEG0&psc=1&qid=1574091165

So much easier to make holes than a typical drill bit, even if you use a carbide drill bit.

Also make sure you make all of your holes and rough grind the bevels before you heat treat, as once hard, removing or drilling metal will be tough. Also keep the edge of the blade at least 0.4 mm or so at the edge before you heat treat, if you grind it too think, the blade will warp.

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Good luck!

(Wiring diagram included in with images)

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I finally put together a basic parts list for those of you that are interested in building a DIY heat treat oven. I've included a wiring diagram, but I take no responsibility for anyone who wants to make one. If you don't know what you're doing, find someone who does. Its up to you to figure out how to mount the door switch, and to design and make a door latch (I made mine on the fly and have to dimensions or drawings).

Its not a project for the faint of heart, but if you have some electrical knowledge, and the help of someone with a welder, its very doable.

I've included CAD files for the frame and electrical box. Any fabrication shop with a waterjet, plasma or laser cutter should be able to cut these for you. I'll give a break down of the parts required and how much I spent on everything. You're prices may vary:

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24x Insulating fire bricks 2.5" x 4.5" x 9". I bought direct from the manufacture for $130 shipped.

MyPin Temperature Controller $35(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005NGL53W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Solid State Relay $18 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06W9LNZDX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Thermocouple $15 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00XJB4DYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

3x KANTOL wire elements $12/ea (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CLLW3BG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

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You'll also need to find a 120V+ 20 Amp fuse, a Normally open door switch, and 2 On/Off switches.

DXF CAD Files: https://www.dropbox.com/s/diwuui3qtw247uh/kiln%20layout.dxf?dl=0

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I found the best way to make the grooves for the wires was to score the likes with a 3/16" thick file on is side, and follow that by widening them with a drillbit just under 1/4". The fire bricks are very soft so just take your time and dont force anything.

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Feel free to modify and redistribute these drawings as you wish, but you take your safety into your own hands. Good luck!

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I want to say good job for not questioning it and supporting his hobby! The Damascus blank is fine many knifes don’t have pins he just needs to scratch the tang first and it will be good. I really like knives without pins sometimes. A hand drill could ad holes if need be. Both are good blanks. The handle woods a bit boring in my opinion and I found some exotic wood blanks that are much more interesting and pretty in my opinion but everyone has their own taste. It’s a bit more expensive but good woods. 150$ will get him the basic tools and that’s fine because he can get better tools as he progresses with the craft. Good luck! That should be a great start

Comments:

Go for it and good luck.

Advice:

Start small. Don't try to make a giant bowie to begin with. You will learn a lot on your first knife, and the result probably won't be exactly what you expect. As you learn, you can then go bigger, but start with something manageable. Do a knife about 8 inches in total length or so.

Google 'aaron gough youtube'. I don't know what video you watched, but I have seen a ton about using rebar and similar, which really doesn't work. Aaron gough gives a lot of practical advice and methods, and he makes good knives and is a cool redditor.

Use real steel. Buy some real steel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYFVI

This is 30 bucks, and will make a real knife worth using.

Use files at first, smithing is way harder. Use a jig, it is harder to mess up than doing it freehand.

I would suggest getting it professionally heat treated: if you aren't doing too many, it will be cheaper than doing it ghetto at home and you will get way better results. When I started, I messed up about half of the ones I heat treated at home. It sucks to have a knife go to waste. I would suggest peters heat treat. You can do it at home if you want, but you will shell out more initially for the setup. It is fun though.

http://www.petersheattreat.com/blades/pricing/

Thirty bucks to get your blade awesomely heat treated.

Total cost would be about 100 dollars for: the steel, the files and material for a jig, and the heat treat. The piece of steel I linked to should be enough for a couple of knives.

More advice: trawl through this subreddit extensively. :) Research helps a ton for getting good results.

I've never done micarta before, but have done quite a bit of digging on it since I want to do some eventually. There are two things that have popped up in my research that are key to making decent micarta:

1. The process: Building a press and form is pretty straight forward, the main thing to avoid is making scales that are too thin. In order to keep it clean and somewhat uniform, I plan to do something like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHez490P7g4
   
   
2. Resin: The part that took some digging to find out is that you should not be using epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is difficult to finish on a grinder and to get to come out well. To get a smooth/clean finish the material must be saturated in the process, and I plan to use polyester casting resin: https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-34032-polyester-casting/dp/B0018N9E3M
   
   This video has a a pretty good process for using clear casting resins and how to finish them off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt9ZLG4lJ8k
   
   

thanks in advance.

here is a link to the bush crafter https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Carbon-Survival-Starter/dp/B00BFI8TOA

It seems like it should suite my needs well in terms of shape and size. I have one in stainless now that I like. I was looking at blanks and found that you can get a morakniv blank that I could work with, but I'm liking the interest that damascus provides. I'm not really sure what the pros and cons of the material might be for camping and bushcrafting, but I do think it would look cool. I'm thinking I'd do a wooden handle possibly with some brass guards if I'm feeling ambitious.

If you like wet grinding (like I do) get this + this. The mist system requires an air compressor but it doesn't have to be a big one, I just use a pancake compressor. There are several brands of grinding fluid you can use, I just linked that one as an example, but Maxim oil has the best priced one. That stuff is great, you get a better finish and you can use it for everything you use oil for without the stinky oil everywhere, annoying rust spots will be a thing of the past.

To sharpen straight from heat treat, first I take my knives to my 1x30 belt sander with an angle guide at my desired angle (20, 25, whatever).

Once I get it to start forming burrs, then I clamp it into the Lansky system. I actually use the "deluxe" version (has an extra course stone and an extra fine) with their leather strop. It takes me a good 20-30 minutes on each side for a long edge with the extra course stone. You'll be able to see where the stone is removing the metal, just make sure that the stone is taking it off all the way down the edge.

After I get burrs from the extra course stone (or course, in your case), it's a pretty quick process to work my way up to the finest stone I have, and then strop for the finishing touch.

If you're using the Lansky stropping stone, be sure to move it down from the spine, which is the reverse direction you've been doing. I have a sizable chunk missing from mine :/

Okay thank you very much! Do you have any tool recommendations for beveling the edge and also sharpening the blade? Is there a tool that can do both of these jobs with a different attachment? I was thinking about purchasing the lansky sharpening system. Is there something similar in which I can also attach a mill file to produce the bevel? I would want something to purchase, not plans to build and something less than $100 if possible. The bevel I'm thinking about is probably 1/4 of an inch or 3/8ths.

Thank you!

I used the grinder below until I bought a 2x72. I got mine a bit cheaper as it was 4 years ago or so, but the same one with a different brand name. I also bought a steel platen and added it.. Worked pretty good to get me started on a budget.

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https://www.amazon.com/Norse-BDSG2x6-9681119-Sander-Grinder/dp/B07FFKD4HH/ref=asc_df_B07FFKD4HH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241955516116&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16790348003686627987&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029357&hvtargid=pla-570400924991&psc=1

Oh yeah, I thought 1095 was stupid expensive until I found it on texas knifemaker supply for $8 per foot... so yeah, I'll be getting some of that. I need a belt sander, but can't get one at the moment. Do you think this is a good sander? Would it be useful for grinding bevels?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8IEA4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8L6NG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Lansky deluxe and stand. Got my knife from 0 to 100 in less than 20 minutes. Gough on youtube has a great video on how to effectively use it.

I use:

EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 1 Gallon Kit. for Super Gloss Coating and TABLETOPS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPtYDbX2C34AW

Hello All! I found this Damascus Steel Billet with a predrilled bearing slot for $45. For whatever reason, I had the urge to get into metal working and I felt this could be a good first step after testing some other material sculping, but I would like to start buying the proper gear now before I get started. I am considering purchasing the billet for a DIY fidget spinner. I would imagine either doing a simple design with 6 circular cuts where the circle rings are or doing a bar design with custom engraved skulls on each side.

I would prefer to do a bar design with this type of design on each bar face (more simple as its my first time)

Skull example

My concern would be balancing issues and the equipment I would need to cut and mold this design. I would test on softer materials first obviously to get the design right. Here are my main questions -

1. Would this dremel work to cut and shape Damascus steel? https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4300-9-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B01LZVVA58/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=dremel&qid=1559104711&s=gateway&sr=8-27
   
2. How would I balance each side, what's the best way to measure the weight of each side independently?
   
3. Any tips from someone who has worked with metal work / dremels.
   
4. If the tool above won't work, can someone link me to a proper tool? I am still reading up the resources from the wiki and other google resources on heat treating and metalworking methods.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMYFVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450143196&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=o1+tool+steel&dpPl=1&dpID=31xGT3DXKzL&ref=plSrch

This is where I've gotten my o1 for a long time. Look through the many different size combinations, you'll often find nonsensically cheap steel at certain dimensions. I recommend 1/8 thickness.

im only on my third blade, and the first sander i bought was a 4x36 thinking the same thing. It ended up being a bit of a pain. I still use it for flattening all my edges and surface grinding. For actually grinding by bevels i have been using this https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Mini-Belt-Sander-3400/dp/B004D96ZCG/ref=pd_sbs_196_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004D96ZCG&pd_rd_r=BPYN0PVP11225WJZWP2Z&pd_rd_w=MEfYN&pd_rd_wg=H7m3J&psc=1&refRID=BPYN0PVP11225WJZWP2Z and its fantastic. plus, in this size you can search amazon for belt packs and get a set of various grits from 60 all the way to 600 in one package. Its also not gonna break the bank for your first grinder.

Was planning on getting this for sharpening: https://www.amazon.ca/Lansky-LKCLX-Deluxe-Sharpening-Kit/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&psr=EY17&ie=UTF8&qid=1511831839&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=lansky

The Craftsman would be a big upgrade from the 1x30 simply because the two inch belts will help you get a more even flat grind. It's a solid little machine that can make a great knife if you're on a budget and can learn its quirks. Runs really fast though.

Edit: looks like the Craftsman isn't made anymore but this one looks identical

https://www.amazon.com/Norse-BDSG2x6-9681119-Sander-Grinder/dp/B07FFKD4HH/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Norse+2x42&qid=1555990589&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The mods I did are remove all the dumb shrouds and hoods over the belt, jb weld a ceramic platen on, replace the work rest because the stock one has weird grooves in it.