(Part 2) Best products from r/leaf

This is the ODB2 BT I got, works great: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/

Take a look at this for the L2 charging: http://www.instructables.com/id/313CONVERTING-A-2013-LEAF-LEVEL-1-12AMP-CHARGER-TO/

It is super easy to convert your existing L1 "charger" (it's not really a charger) to be both L2 and L1 capable, then you just need a 240v outlet (which is ~$100-$200 for an electrician to install, easy to DIY as well)

I have yet to do any public charging, but just signed up for a ChargePoint account, thanks to http://roev.org/ the account should work at ChargePoint, Blink, and EVgo station which is 90%+ of public stations. Maybe someone else can comment how well it works and if it's still a good idea to sign up for multiple provider accounts.

I also really like the Leaf Manager app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en

Way faster and more useful than the Nissan provided app.

I've got both inverters. The pure sine wave is clean AC and electronic equipment works well - no humming of overheating. I started with an inverter that I had that was modified sine wave and the electronics made a humming noise. I'd recommend the pure sine wave inverters.

​

I'm using a 2000 watt inverter, but some things like an induction stove don't run. I'd consider a 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter. Also, make sure you size the cables correctly - fatter wire is best.

I like this one for controlling an L1 EVSE:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Wi-Fi-Energy-Management-SP-2101W/dp/B00N4OBJAO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486343106&sr=1-1&keywords=edimax+smart+plug

Can be controlled by a smartphone (also has a hidden API if you're technically inclined -- I control it from my linux server), scheduleable, energy metering real-time reading of how much energy it's pulling along with kWh totals and reports.

Since I don't have a predictable driving/charging schedule (and thus just using the normal schedule feature would result in charging every night eventually up to 100%), I tend to use one-off cron/at jobs from my linux box to do one-off charge sessions.

edit: If I was purchasing again, I might consider the newer https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Anywhere-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486343373&sr=1-2&keywords=tp-link+hs110 which supports 240V (up to 16A), which would then support the L1 EVSE upgraded to L2. However I haven't personally used it hence the original recommendation. The Edimax, while only supporting 120V (up to 15A), has been reliable for me in a year of usage.

My favorite cell phone mount: Magnetic Phone Holder - TACKFORM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIAH3PE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also nice to have a cigarette lighter powered tire pump, since you’ll never be at a gas station. I can’t find the link but I just got a cheap no name one and it works fine. Tire pressure gauge is good to have too. Actually check the tire for tread: the stock Ecopias are probably already gone but if not they will need replaced, beware those energy efficient tires they have terrible longevity.

I keep a case of chemical hand warmers in the trunk in case I get stranded in the winter somehow.

On an S only, yes.

I had to buy Nissan wiring harnesses and solder them, I paid for a day of the Nissan service manual to get the wiring diagram for the car, as well as a little black box that could respond to the steering wheel buttons.

All said and done it functioned perfectly, and I had Android Auto that functions better than on my 2018.

I'll try to look up my material list and put it here.

Edit:


Steering Wheel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/


Backup Cam:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXJFWMJ/


Harness (doesn't have all of the leads required, need to add more):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXED54/


Antenna cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PANZ7U/


Double din bracket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNG3X7W/


Wiring diagram:
Ask for it, don't really want to just post it here or if that's against the rules.

I had the exact same problem. I've had my 2018 for about two weeks and it was happening at least once per drive. I did a bunch of experimenting and I think I finally have it squared away, but I did multiple things so your results may be different than mine. Here's is what I found:

• I have a Samsung Galaxy S8. Samsung's default power management features are a little overly aggressive and were definitely causing the bulk of my disconnects. I put in power management exceptions for my driving apps (Android Auto, Waze, Audible and Amazon Music) which reduced my disconnects substantially.
  
• Next, I found that when a disconnect occurred, I would have to unplug and wait about 30 seconds before I could reconnect. I later discovered that if I unplugged/plugged the phone in twice it would reconnect and launch Android Auto immediately. I'm not sure why, but that was my stop-gap solution for a little while.
  
• Finally, I started to suspect my USB-C cable. I ordered a new shorter cable from Amazon and I have not had a single disconnect since (only four days ago). So at least in my case it looks like the new cable made a big difference. This is the cable I am using.
  
  Anyhow, all of that may be totally coincidental and I'll start having crashes again next week, but maybe it will be of some help to you.

If you get a TeslaTap there's a midpoint stop in Seven Points; adds 16 miles to the route but if you can get 3hrs @ 6kW that's good for another 12hrs of L1 charging.

Best bet is just more time in Tyler tho, and maybe a L2/L3 helper stop in the outskirts of Dallas coming and going.

With BEV, it's never the destination but the journey!

Another thing to consider is to make sure to match the coupler with the hitch ball but NOT BY USING A HITCH ADAPTER!!! Most hitch adapter drops the maximum safe tongue weight significantly, usually by half. Your hitch is probably a class I or II receiver hitch. The ball mount size will be limited for those two and will probably be a 1 7/8" ball. Your trailer, given the size, probably has a coupler for 2" or 2 5/16" ball. What I'm saying is, do not use an adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE09N4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to use a larger shank and ball. Instead, swap out the coupler to fit the smaller ball.

I use the above adapter for my CT200h but only to attach a cargo basket and I'm extra mindful of the reduced weight capacity.

I have the LELink. It works great, easy pairing and fast refresh rate.

LELink^2 Configurable Auto On/Off Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0755N61PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JQBtDbFP4S3MM

I have these on my 2012 and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JKI5Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LTHX5O0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014K09SPS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don't need your dashcam to be active while the car is stopped I suggest tapping it directly from the mirror and it's a lot easier if you can use a 12V camera rather than having to convert that 12V down to 5V USB:

Anything from BlackVue works, I used the DR590W-1CH

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BMK4DKV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Here is the mirror tap product that you plug into the back of your mirror: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LBKUPWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

\> Is there a way to tell if anything else is on that circuit?

I'm not an electrician, but I think you need to put an amp meter on the circuit near your breaker. I think they make clamp on ones so you don't have to work with any bare wires.

\> I'm also concerned about fire hazard with extension cords

I promise the extension cord won't be an issue if you get a 12 gauge one and your breakers are functional. Just get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/US-Wire-74025-25-Foot-Extension/dp/B002HWRS7W

It's a window mount, but I use this one.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M5CIP0C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use my cell phone as a dash cam as well so it has to be up above the dash.

I bought the rear wiper blade on Amazon for $10. I don't recall anything weird about installing it.

This one works fine for me:
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 Car... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PJPHEBO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bought this last month. Works fine.

your post was automatically removed as spam by reddit. you might want to try submitting a clean link in a text post.

Here is the one I bought that works on my 2013 leaf.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Code Reader Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFwDCbBAX5HBC

Seems odd to be that low. If you go look at used leafs, it's worth buying the leaf spy pro app and an ODB2 Bluetooth module:

LELink^2 Configurable Auto On/Off Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0755N61PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zkU0CbJEPZHB8

It will show you the remaining battery capacity.