(Part 2) Best products from r/longrange

lol, I'm in the camp that a gun is like an instrument. You're going to get a lot more out of it if you tune it before you use it.

Also yeah, no problem, I don't mind talking loads! Huge caveat tho, don't use other people's loads lol. Always start low from the books and work your way up, I primarily use Hornady 10th. And do a lot of reading on the process. But I'll kinda get into it from some of the basics on. I'm not a master reloader by any means, but I try to share things I've learned. I also have a habit of putting up walls of text. But yeah, I'll start with my general process at first and then specifics of the loads.

With straight wall pistol cartridges you rarely need to trim, from what I've seen. But rifle cartridges with shoulders expand to fill the chamber when you shoot them, and then when you resize them (moving the shoulder back down the cartridge) brass needs somewhere to go and flows up to the mouth, and you have to trim it if enough flowed to make it out of spec. So, some things you read tell you just to neck size after you fire a brass to keep it formed to the wall of the chamber. However, when I was doing this I was not happy with the results and after reading some articles on precision shooting from some respectable industry guys I started bumping my shoulders back a couple thousandths smaller than the chamber, as one of the articles in particular was mentioning doing this after getting flyers from only neck sizing, which I was also getting. If you look online, you will have people telling you that one is definitely better than the other, but no one will agree on which lol. I always trim my brass to the same uniform length afterward, deburr, clean the primer pocket, and hit the inside of the neck with a cleaning brush. Then I prime and triple measure the powder going in, as my electronic powder thrower hasn't been throwing consistently. After that I seat the bullet about 10 thousandths short of my lands (I used this to figure out how long that was a while ago) and luckily the magazines for the compass accommodate the size. Some rifles will limit you to the maximum of the magazine instead of being able to get that close to the lands. Then I'll usually give it a moderate collet crimp. If I wanted to take the next step into OCD I would weigh the brass and bullets individually and sort them into like-weights before loading. I'm not there yet tho.

As some side notes, I do work in batches. I bought a bunch of factory ammo, fired it, and then try to reload it at the same time and keep track/keep it together. I also anneal my brass every 2-3 firings to try to preserve the brass and keep the shoulders from cracking. I think I'm up to 7 loadings on my Hornady brass without issue so far, I think I'll be able to get a lot more loadings out of them. I use a salt bath annealing setup I made using internet instructions on the cheap and it's been working well. I used to try and use a propane torch and spinning socket in a drill to anneal but it was crap because it wasn't consistent.

As far as the loads go, I'm currently using 43.5 grains of Superperformance with 143gr ELD-X. If I had to do it all over again, I would give H4350 a try. People are saying it's extremely temperature stable and Panhandle Precision is getting some really really good velocity using that and they're not going too high in pressure. However, I have a keg of Superperformance so that's what I'm working with. I did a lot of separate loads of 5 bullets, and shot the best I possibly could through a chrono, working up until the pressure was too high. My bolt started getting reeeeeeally stiff and I had to stop. This is what all that looked like. If you've never read it, you should definitely read this article on understanding pressure signs, there's a lot to learn on that.

Anyway, sorry about the information dump. I'm really happy with how it's turning out so far, and golf balls fear me, which makes me feel pretty good, they're half minute at 300 yards and you can't really see them without a scope (the white dots in the distance are 4"-8" plates). Let me know if I can give you any other info that might be useful.

Having a dot for close in work isn’t the worst idea if it’s pulling double duty as a hunting build, but I’d really make replacing that scope mount your priority. That style of mount is for a rifle that needs extra eye relief to mount the scope, extra height to look through it, and the ability to quickly remove the scope to use backup irons if the optic is busted and you still have to shoot.

Since your rifle doesn’t need extra eye relief to use a scope, doesn’t need significant elevation of the optic aside from enough to let it clear the barrel, and you won’t be removing the scope regularly to “get back in the fight” that mount isn’t necessary and is probably a detriment to your accuracy. I’d recommend replacing it with a set of precision scope rings like seekins. Good rings are worth the money, a really nice scope is worthless if it’s in a bad mount that won’t hold it straight and secure.

Edit: just found what I believe the mount on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MBZ3TGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yr1uDbYKAVJT7 OP ditch that thing immediately those are crap and thanks to their garbage qd feature will likely fall off under the recoil of the rifle and certainly won’t retain zero.

Same goes for the red dot, it won’t hold up to the recoil of that rifle and you’ll be lucky if it still even turns on after a day at the range. You don’t need to spend thousands of dollars to have a functional rifle but the bits that literally hold the two most expensive parts of your setup together are important.

Edit edit: I’m assuming you bought all the extra bits on amazon, I’d recommend you return them if you can and go with these 30mm Tube .87" Medium 4 Cap Screw Scope Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URT7A98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pH1uDbNN8B89Q also make sure you torque everything to spec otherwise it loosen up under recoil and you won’t hit anything.

Don’t make the same mistakes I did so many years ago.

>where I can make a 500 yard kill shot, and hit sub MOA at 800. Is that doable with my set up?

It's possible, though likely challenging with your setup unless your barrel ends up being really good and you find ammo it really likes. And you will need lots of range time and practice.

As for bipods, you don't want to cheap out and get imported Chinese shit, but you don't need to spend a ton of money either. Harris occupies the sweet spot for durable, reliable, low weight bipods at reasonable money.

This is the one most people on here recommend for flat prone and bench shooting. You might want the 9-12 for prone shooting innawoods hunting.

I used the notched non-swivel version that is $20 cheaper or so.


As for rings, I prefer to get a rail AND rings so that there is something really consistent that the scope is mounted to that isn't subject to flex or QC issues like receivers can sometimes be. The rail acts kindof like a buffer, they aren't expensive, and they give you 20 MOA of elevation if you choose. Plus they give you a Picatinny section that will give you a much greater selection of ring choices.

I also really like the Burris Signature Zee rings for solid, reliable, safe scope holding since the plastic inserts help spread the clamping force and prevent issues with rings being not perfectly true or the insides not exactly mating with the scope.

This Talley rail(I thought that was a rail for an m77, but apparently it isn't, see the rail from a poster below) and these rings are what I would put on my rifle.

Plano double scoped rifle case for me. Love it. Affordable, durable and legit. Not. Big fan of the pluck foam so I bought some replacement foam for cheap and cut with turkey shears. Works like a charm!

Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0029KDHQI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Foam here:
http://www.thefoamfactory.com/opencellfoam/charcoal-R.html

I also have the tactical ar case from Plano and I'm equally as pleased with the quality of the product for the cost!

The fundamental text on the subject would be McCoy's Modern Exterior Ballistics. That isn't cheap, so you could check out the original paper that laid the basis for the common point mass model used in most ballistic solvers. This Master's thesis also has a great deal of useful information. Depending on whether or not you have access to various journals, there are some interesting papers on various approaches to piece-wise linearization of the equations, which saves the trouble of needing an RK4 or similar method for the solution of PDEs. [Kalil, 2015](http://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/ASCE AS.1943-5525.0000381) and Hainz, 2005 are worth a look.

My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.

Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.

Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hello. Here is a Tikka T3 Hunter in .308 with a Nikon Monarch 3 6-24x50 SF BDC and a vortex scope level. It is mounted in a KRG X Ray chassis and a Harris Bipod. I have yet to shoot it, taking it out tomorrow but I am so damn excited. Only thing left that I'm interested in changing now is the trigger but I haven't found one yet. Also, the folks at KRG are great. it took 7 days (ordered on Friday, arrived the next Friday) for the chassis to arrive.

I would make sure that your rifle can fit into the case prior to ordering it. I have both the 42" Plano case and the longer case with wheels (this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029KDHQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). My rifle (20" barrel) BARELY fits into the longer case. It's a great case overall though.

They’re custom targets: https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Battle-Target/dp/B01MQQJLMI

The poker ones have a deck of cards, and you try to shoot the best hand you can in the time limit (10 seconds?)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQNZNK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517963578&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=poker+targets&dpPl=1&dpID=51VyY1QfZeL&ref=plSrch

Both of these targets are a bit pricey, but you can google around and find free PDFs you can print of both

• EGW 20 MOA base ($39.99)
  
• 2 x Vortex Tactical 30mm rings ($19.99 x 2)
  
• Primary Arms 4-14x44 FFP ($229.99)
  
• Wheeler FAT torque screwdriver ($44.99)
  
  This will bring you in under $500. You get a first focal plane mil/mil scope with adjustable power with plenty of internal adjustment to dial your elevation. Save up for better glass and upgrade as you go. This setup will get you to 1000 yards easily.

Here is a book that was actively used by my battalion's sniper section. Lots of good info in there, but it's quite dense. Expect to read and re-read. Fascinating book.

Lower rings would be a start, but even then I still need a cheek riser on a sporter stock like the one you have.

Something like this if you don't mind drilling through your stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Cheek-Riser-Kydex-Matthews/dp/B00O0IOKOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540999547&sr=8-1&keywords=cheek+weld+riser

https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Buttstock-Shell-Holder/dp/B00162JKH0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465559264&sr=8-4&keywords=stock+pack works great. very solid on the rifle.

Check out Bryan Litz' Applied Ballistics.

Empirical evidence indicates that all things being equal, a slower twist will group tighter than a faster twist.

Interestingly, Litz also mentions that twist rate "slows down" as the caliber increases, as larger diameter bullets (all things being equal) rotate at a slower "caliber per inch".

He hangs out on a couple of forums, and he is an absolute wealth of knowledge.

Edit: format

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007FTARKM/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The straps are a little long but not bad. Also it's adjustable but by that it means there's a roll of foam in it that you cut off a little at a time until it's where you want it. It's got a nice little pouch which I'll end up putting a dope card in and it's also got a shell holder. Both held on with Velcro.

And for $16 it's solid

What he said! I use one and it's a great platform.

Harris Engineering S-BRM Hinged Base 6 - 9-Inch BiPod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJGXAI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_CGU8tb1KK5XHB

I have a bushnell rimfire 3-18x40 on my CZ 455 :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T9N3XGW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_D.CYCbTTJ57Y7

​

clear picture, enough adjustment to shoot out to 200yds, exposed turrets for easy adjustment, etc. like $140

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162JKH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It seems great for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-Precision-Rifle-Complete/dp/1732193010/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=Anthony+Cirincione+II&qid=1562787328&s=books&sr=1-1-fkmr1


Anthony Cirincione's book has a great section of reload for precision rifle.


Also check out the Ultimate Reloader channel on YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/user/gavintoobe

There is a book on Amazon called The Ultimate Sniper by John Plaster that is pretty highly reviewed. I'm tempted to get it but the price is a little steep.

It's pretty highly rated, and many sniper/longrange books on Amazon are not.

There is a hilarious flame war though in the reviews between the author and some other dick waving pro sharpshooter. Pretty entertaining reading.

Thanks for the recommendation. I am looking at Seekins right now, actually. What do you think about this combo?

Rings: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URT7N9U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Base: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM0WDK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon FTW

Cheap voodoo tactical I found on amazon I modified to actually work really well!

Voodoo Tactical - Adjustable Rifle Buttstock Cheek Rest - Black Nylon with Ammo Carrier Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007FTARKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GGqUDbJJ0C1TR

Nice suggestion, especially for $160!

I updated the main post with this selection from Vortex: http://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-DBK-04-BDC-Diamondback-Riflescope/dp/B001EC7KMY

Isn't that a Harris? Am I missing something? I thought Harris Engineering bipods were regarded as excellent quality, considered "bulletproof", and cost around $90.

I was going to add it to my wish list for when the new, reasonably priced version comes out.

​

It's released and costs $30 bucks.

The Cheapest Lee press is a worthwhile addition to your setup.


It's the bastard stepchild on my bench, and is relegated to depriming every piece of brass before they get tumbled as not to get dirt and primer residue on my progressive or larger single stage presses. It's often on sale for $20, and it's worth it to save the abuse on your nicer equipment.

I really like https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Ballistics-Long-Range-Shooting/dp/0615452566. The price on Amazon seems ridiculous. I think I paid $45 for the 2009 edution

A bubble level helps you get the rifle level each time you fire, at long range this will cause a change in impact because the optic/barrel and no longer in the same vertical plane so to speak.

[Canting Effect on Point of Impact] (http://www.accurateshooter.com/optics/canting-effect-on-point-of-impact/)

A torque wrench is also a good idea.

Link to bubble level: Vortex 1in Bubble Level

Many of the formulas can be found in the books:

1. Bryan Litz's Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting(https://store.appliedballisticsllc.com/Ballistic_Performance_of_Rifle_Bullets_3rd_Edition_p/0010.htm) and
   
   
   
2. Robert McCoys Modern Exterior Ballistics(https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Exterior-Ballistics-Robert-McCoy/dp/0764338250?keywords=robert+mccoys+modern+exterior+ballistics&qid=1538411137&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1).
   
   ​
   
   However it used to take about 3 months to do a full ballistic calculation. The first computer ever (ENIAC) was designed to combat this. Reducing the time to about 3 days. Now your cell phone can do it in about 1 second. I would suggest using an app like ours to perform the calculations for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Applied-Ballistics-Long-Range-Shooting/dp/0615452566

If you want the source material for Jesus, see the bible. For external balistics as it relates to long range small arms, see the Gospel of Litz.

Is this the book I'm looking for?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029KDHQI?keywords=double%20scoped%20plano&qid=1457403241&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I got one of these off a buddy for free and threw it on my 10/22 before switching it over to a cheap .223 bolt gun. The ammo carrier velcros on. https://www.amazon.com/Voodoo-Tactical-Adjustable-Buttstock-Carrier/dp/B007FTARKM
The actual cheek rest is a piece of dense foam rolled into a cylinder, so it's easy to cut it down to whatever height you need.

This one in link. It does “tilt” side to side so you can level on uneven ground. I put the bigger handle on it to tighten it down. I leave it just loose enough so that I can tilt with a little force when needed.

Harris Engineering S-BRM Hinged... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJGXAI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

bipod

throw lever

I really hate when people use the most vague comments for information.