(Part 2) Best products from r/myog

We were tagging three 4000 footers somewhat near Zealand falls... First night we night hiked and climbed Mt. Hale, then we continued night hiking til almost 3 am lol...there was almost a full moon and coming through the section of the AT where it meets the Zeacliff trail was epic at 1am with almost a full moon shining on the talus fields below Whitewall Mountain. We then camped for the night a little past that section after an exhausting bushwack looking for a legal spot off trail. We spent the next night at an overflow spot off of the AT and waited out most of the rain that day. The next day the weather cleared and we climbed Mt. Tom and Field. Was a great trip :D

Ya you should definitely give hammocks a try sometime! A few tips to ensure that you have a chance at good nights sleep in a hammock...make sure that you are using a hammock that is at least 10.5 feet long...11 foot is even better. Anything shorter than that is only really good for lounging in, not sleeping (in my and many other's opinion). You need a proper length hammock to get a good diagonal lay, which is the position that most people find the most comfortable. With a good diagonal lay, you can get your body almost completely flat (as opposed to laying in the hammock like a bananna, which is not comfortable for most folks). You will find that you have a dominant side that you like to position your body which usually corresponds to your dominant hand...so for example, I am left handed and I find it most comfortable to have my feet to the left and my head to the right. A lot of right handed people find that laying the opposite (feet right, head left) is more comfortable for them though. You just have to play around to figure out which position works for you.

Hang angle is also very important in achieving a comfortable position. Your suspension should typically be around 30 degrees to the tree, although I find I like my head end a few more degrees than that. Make lots of micro adjustments to find what is ideal for you. Also, most folks find it more comfortable to have the foot end slightly higher than the head end so that you are not slipping down towards the bottom of the hammock all night. I like to find trees that are spaced about 7 paces between them.

Some sort of bottom insulation is quite necessary to stay warm unless it's around 70 degrees or above. On the ground we lose heat due to conduction, but when hanging we lose heat due to convection. A simple CCF or inflatable pad will do the trick for sure but nothing beats an underquilt for comfort and simplicity...pads work but there is much more "fiddle factor" involved in getting them where you want them, and that process starts over when you get out and back in... but it's totally doable and not that bad... but an underquilt will forever spoil you after using one.

I highly recommend reading Derek Hansen's book The Ultimate Hang before embarking on a journey into the world of hammocks...it's a fun, easy read and will give you all of the essential info that you need.

Regarding the weight issue, while it is true that you will be probably be able to go the absolute lightest with a ground setup using something like a torso length GG CCF pad and minimalist tarp etc., you can go pretty darn light with hammock setups these days using something like a hammock made of the 1 ounce per yard fabrics like Hexon 1.0 with a partial bug net (a Dutchware Half-wit or an add on net like the HUG available at Arrowhead Equipment) , Dutch's new Dyneema 2.0 straps, whoopie slings and an 11 ounce partial length underquilt like a Hammock Gear Phoenix 40 degree. That is essentially my setup at the moment (with a few different tarps that I swap out depending on weather conditions). I've been rocking my whole setup in a GG Kumo with no hip belt and am usually right under a 10 pound baseweight for warm weather loadouts. The slight weight penalty that my hammock setup incurs over ground setup has been totally worth it to me because it has translated into a very consistent sleep experience and has really opened up so many new camping locations. I find that a hammock setup under a tarp is so much more enjoyable when having to ride out a storm as well...the hammock can be used a super comfortable seat to do all sorts of camp chores from. If you take one side of the hammock and fold it over on itself it makes super comfortable seat (you do this to avoid the feeling of the hammock pressing into behind your knee when sitting in it normally). Poor drainage is not as much of a concern as well in a hammock setup which is another huge plus.

My last tip would be expect that your first few trips using a hammock are going to be learning experiences and you may not get it right the first few times. It can take a few trips to get your setup dialed in, but once you do, it's amazing! I'd be happy to answer any questions that you have and I am sure that many of the other hammock users around here would as well. Happy hanging :D

I spent a bit of time researching this topic and am always excited to see someone post about it.

I bought a roll and made my own tape using the 3M 9485 PC adhesive and 0.51 DCF. I’ve only used it on VX series XPac. It bonds very well to it. You did a couple things different than I did, and I like what you did.

First, I like the opaque material you use. The DCF is really lightweight and strong, but not as pretty because you can see the seams through it. The material you used will add a little more weight than DCF, so there is a trade off for the hardcore gram counters. But it really looks great!

Second, I like how you pressed the seam apart when you applied the tape. I folded the seam allowances over in the same direction when I stitched the bag, so I couldn’t open and press them like you did. Both ways are functional, but yours looks a lot better. Here’s a picture of the inside of my bag made from VX series XPac sealed with the tape I made from DCF.
https://imgur.com/a/afE9vL2

Third, you used coated materials in your bag. This is how you get a true waterproof seal. I’m not sure the uncoated Cordura will be truly waterproof for the same reason as VX series XPac (more on that below). But, it will be very water resistant.

One suggestion... Use a roller to apply the tape. It really improves the bonding. I picked this one up on Amazon and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GVGTX2V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

An note about seam tape and XPac... If you are using VX series XPac, then you cannot get a true waterproof seal. The woven polyester face on the inside of the material allows water to wick under/behind the tape and into the bag. I had to put mine under the shower head for about 20 minutes to observe this, but it happened.

Recreation XPac (X21RC) is what you want to use if you want a true waterproof bag in XPac. I think the TX series will work too.

From Quest Outfitters:
X 21 RC uses the same 210 denier face fabric as the VX21 but has a .5 mil shiny polyester PET film backing instead of a woven polyester - this makes it lighter and more flexible.

Thanks for sharing!

[X-post from r/campinggear] Hey everyone, I cringe when I see the cost vs contents of most first aid kits on the market. Too much unnecessary stuff and only the highest priced kits have clotting powder, which I’ve used on the trail for controlling bleeding with large abrasions and deep or tangential lacerations. I put together my suggestions, with an eye toward maximizing usefulness and minimizing per unit cost. IMO this is superior to most kits costing 2-3x more. Light enough for the discernible backpacker, but makes a great gift for family and friends to throw in the car pocket, the boat, ATV, or carry along to kids sporting events. Feel free to add, subtract or substitute to customize your own.

Ever-Ready First Aid Adhesives, assorted sizes, 280ct $6.95 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179S0IAW
Self explanatory, enough for 2-3 of each size per DIY kit.

Vakly Stretch Gauze: 12 pk 4” x 4yds $7.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQFPA6
1 pk per kit and 4 left over for the home medicine cabinet.

McKesson individually wrapped sterile gauze pads: 50ct $5.17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C5P9J8
6 per kit, throw them in a ziploc baggie to protect against moisture.

Woundseal clotting powder: 20 pkts $28.06 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RUJXR6
Remember that compression alone, when done properly, effectively controls most bleeding. But when a member of your group is on aspirin or other blood thinners, or sustains a nasty cut that won’t stop bleeding, this stuff is awesome.

3M Duct tape: 1.88in x 30yds $3.89 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013B1XHE
Countless uses for the backpacker / camper, from tourniquet, fracture splinting, reinforcement of wound dressings, fashioning a moleskin barrier for blisters, not to mention tent, pack or sleeping bag repair. Grab a few extra straws from your local fast food joint, trim them to 2 inches, then roll up 4 to 6ft lengths of duct tape around the straw. The straw in the middle doubles as a pocket billows for fire starting.

Rensow white petroleum jelly 5gms, 144 pkts: $24.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAGT85M
Lip balm, burn treatment, also apply to rashes, blisters and abrasions to keep gauze from adhering. Doubles as an excellent fire accelerant for bushcrafting. I squeeze some on a cotton ball to use with my tender for catching a spark.

Kirkland anti-diarrheal (loperamide) tablets: 400ct $9.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXPY004
Put 12 per kit and keep the rest for that week-old lasagna that you should have thrown out.

Ibuprofen 200mg tabs: 2x500ct $3.93 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1NJAJS. Put at least 40 per kit as this is likely to be the first supply used.

Diphenhydramine capsules 25mg, 100ct : $4.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080CKDW
Useful for allergies, insect stings, contact dermatitis, and doubles as a sleep aid for those restless nights in the hammock. 12 per kit should do.

Triple antibiotic ointment 0.5oz 144 pkts: $12.18 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2T9K3K
6 to 8 per kit should do, and keep the rest for replen.

Ziplock snack bags, 40ct (for storing meds): $2.73 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U9ZFFCY
Please clearly label each baggie using an indelible marker with name of med, adult dose and expiration date. Pediatric dose optional. Individual “gas station” packets are much more expensive but if routinely carried in vehicle this may be a consideration (law enforcement doesn’t like unlabeled pills floating around in baggies).

First Aid Bags (empty), Alazco, 8 bags $32.82 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182MQ4MU
Highly optional but nice for making your kit look pretty if you’re giving these away as gifts. I double wrap mine in gallon ziploc bags for moisture control.

A printable first aid primer: https://s3.amazonaws.com/yohsresourcelibrary/First+Aid+Quick+Guide.pdf
Certainly not a comprehensive guide, but has some key information like how to perform CPR.

Long rambling post warning...

I work in an industrial shop that makes medium-weight to heavy-weight products (dust filters to giant truck tarps, basically). I don't know the home machines much, but I can share a little knowledge on industrial machines if you're at that point (the price point is substantially higher, expect to spend $1000-$1600, although you'd probably get 60%-90% back in resale value). It's not for everyone. People do amazing things with Singer Heavy Duty home machines, and they're much more affordable and practical.

The biggest difference with industrials is that they're designed to run all day, at high speeds, and last for a very long long time. But the best difference is that you can buy a specialized machine for exactly what you want to sew.

For gear stuff, the reason you'd want to upgrade to an industrial is to get a medium-weight single-needle walking foot that can walk over and sew through anything you'll have to deal with: Tacky fabric coatings, slick fabrics, thick fabrics, thick seams or binding, multiple layers of webbing, zippers, foam up to 1/2" thick. It will feed and stitch exactly the same whether it's just two layers of 200 denier nylon, or 3 layers of webbing plus two overlapped hemmed seams. And it's smooth over the transitions.

Don't bother with an industrial drop-feed garment machine like a Juki DDL-8100, it'll just do what a home machine does, but faster.

The type of industrial you'd want is something like a Consew 206RB or a Juki DNU-1541. The downside is that they are only straight-stitch... The zig-zag capable versions cost literally twice as much. I made this bag with a 206RB, and it handled foam, 1000D nylon, and heavy bound seams without blinking. Just walks right over it, with perfect stitches.

Both of those machines have a bunch of affordable accessories too: Zipper feet, cording feet, edge guides, edge binding attachments, etc. You can also use heavy thread (92, easily).

New vs. Used: It's totally fine to buy a used industrial, as long as it's in good working order. Worn paint is fine, rust is not. Bad maintenance/tinkering is a red flag, things like random screws jammed where they don't belong, filed-down hook tips, ground-down feed dog holes, sagging tabletops, sunken-in machine heads, anything that looks overly "rigged" without a good explanation. Do NOT buy a "project machine", only buy one that runs great as it sits. Anything with a clutch motor, subtract $250 from your offer and throw that thing in the nearest dumpster and buy a servo motor (a positioning motor is 100% worth the extra $$).

You absolutely don't need an industrial machine. It's expensive. It's heavy. It takes up a lot of space, and is definitely not portable. It will not magically make you better at sewing. It has less overall functionality than a home machine with 15 stitch patterns, that can zig-zag, fake an overlock stitch, or make decorative stitches. But they're really pleasant to work with when you get used to them, because you don't have to worry about the machine limits, you can just sew whatever you want to sew.

Definitely awesome!


if you or u/boilerbags want inspiration on features for a bag like this, I have this one, and there is a lot to love about it. There are also lots of things to cut off of it, which make it a great place to start in terms of possible features. I like the vertical straps for compression and strapping stuff on, and I'd expand the hipbelt pockets.


One thing that seems counterintuitive, but that i LOVE about it is the shoulder strap. You 100% forget it's there, and the ventilation is still awesome compared to even an Osprey airspeed, but it completely eliminates the bounce of 2 full bottles and stabilizes the bag. Can also take some of the weight if you want. Or you can leave it at home.


I actually made one for my dad, since he likes hauling around a huge Mountainsmith waistpack, and he also loves it.

I put together a simple Moulder Strip for my stove fuel canister. Check it out: https://imgur.com/a/6RSOnL6

A fun project to keep a isobutane canister running in cold weather. It transfers heat from the flame to the canister via copper strip.

Materials:

• Velcro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EDOSSI
  
• Copper strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9JAATN
  
• Silicone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725GYNG6
  
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  More details here: https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/moulder-strip-directions/
  
  /u/DavidHikinginAlaska is knowledgable about this, way more than me.

Is this sewing machine good enough for making gear? My mom has it and she's gonna teach me how to use it today. I'd like to make quilts and shelters, among other gear. My cousins girlfriend has it and she makes cosplay costumes and my dads cousin's wife has it and she can afford a much more expensive machine, but chose this one.

I plan on getting a sewing machine of my own in a few months.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RDH7Y8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1