(Part 2) Best products from r/overclocking

Hi there.

Ryzen is a solid platform, but not the best overclocker. Since you have an air-cooler you going to be limited, but here is a basic guide:

Go into the Bios:

Set CPU multiplier to 40
Set CPU Voltage to 1.35v

If you have on option to disable "Spread Spectrum" (I know it is on the Asus Crosshair VI). Go ahead and disable it.

Save and exit the bios.

You machine should reboot into Windows. Once it is up and running, run a few benchmark tools, such as Cinebench (free), and 3DMark (also free). Be sure to keep an eye on your CPU temps. If it completes a few back to back runs of each, then congrats!

If it fails or the machine reboots, then your CPU is not stable at 4GHz, go back into the bios and set the voltage to 1.4, and try again. If it still fails, then go back in the bios and change the multiplier to 3.9 and voltage back to 1.35.

Continue stepping down until you find a stable operating frequency.

Be sure to monitor temps with your board / CPU there is only one application that show the real, and accurate temp, and that is Hardware info. All the ASUS applications are WAY off, like not even close off.

Get it here: https://www.hwinfo.com/

When you open it, check the box that says "sensors only" then scroll down the list until you see the little thermometer icon that says "Tdie" That is your real CPU temp. Everything else, no matter the application, to include AMD's Ryzen master, is wrong.

On air, you want to keep your REAL cpu temps under 80'C to be safe, 85 is hot, but ok. 90'C is too hot; Anything above this is not recommended.


Ok... so you now have your CPU fairly stable and are ready to test it. Go play some games, or run a stability tester. I like Asus's RealBench. Others like AIDA64 or OCCT. A quick search and you will find them.

So lets say you pass a few hour long loop of Realbench. Great.

Now it is time to adjust your memory. Memory clock makes a HUGE improvement in Ryzen's performance; Seriously Yuge.

But it depends a lot on if you got the right memory. Hopefully you were a smart PC builder and made sure that the memory you purchased was support by you motherboard by ensuring that it was on you motherboard manufactures supported memory list.

If you didn't do this.. unless you were REALLY lucky and just picked the right memory, then you are going to have a bad time.

So... First... Ryzen CPU's really only work well with memory made by Samsung call "B die". Lots of different companies sell memory based on these chips, but it can be hard to tell which ones are which.


Asus does not really test high end memory with your motherboard, as it is not their top end board, but you can look at the Memory QVL for the Crosshair 6 to get an idea of what memory kit you need.

I Believe all of the G.skill Trident Z DDR4 3600+ memory is based on the B die, you will want a 16GB kit (2x8GB), installed in the second and fourth dimm slot.

You will then go into your bios, set the DRAM voltage, and timings per the manufacture's specs and reboot. If it boots, you are good to go, if it fails to boot, then you need to slow the memory speed down.

If you have the right memory, you will have no problems running DDR 3200.

Here is a good kit that is known to work at 3200mhz with Ryzen CPU's.

https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Trident-3600Mhz-PC4-28800-16-16-16-36/dp/B0199SPVLQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491499191&sr=8-1&keywords=g.skill+3600

Good luck, and have fun.. Just be sure to watch those temps, Air coolers are less than ideal for OC'ing.

Delidding drops max temps about 6C but also greatly improves the max core temp delta spread, which is probably even more important. So it's worth it especially on a chip that is thermally limited.

And the solder is easy to deal with. Just buy a "10 cpu" pack of quicksilver with the delid kit, and all you have to do is apply it on the solder and on the IHS, rub it in with the tips they give you, and let it sit about 1 hour. Rework it every 15 minutes or so. After one hour, you can clean most of the solder up, then do another fresh application for the rest of it.

Protip: buy some 3000 grit-7000 grit sandpaper. This helps a LOT after you removed 90% of the solder. You can just use your fingers with the sandpaper for the rest. The high grit wont sand the cpu but will help with the rest. You can either use alcohol 91%+ or even some quicksilver while sanding.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMC4K3J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the rockit 89 kit and their website comes with the other stuff you need.

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/products/rockit-89-i9-9900k-delid-relid-kit

Buy the "10 cpu" pack of quicksilver to avoid hassle (trust me). Also grab a couple of extra packs of the $1.00 polisher. Stuff is useful in more ways than one!

Have some 91% alcohol available for helping clean stuff, especially the intel silicone glue.

Use the sandpaper that you bought to sand the IHS edges down. Sand it until the copper shows along the edges. Start with 200 grit, then 400, 800, 1600, then 2500-3000. Don't sand too much. You're sanding only to make the edges nice and even, not to 'remove' extra z-height.

Believe it or not, the hardest part of this entire delid thing is removing the old intel silicone black glue!

To do that, soak the glue in 91% alcohol (I do NOT know if goo-gone is safe) and use a credit card or another non sharp plastic to carefully pry the glue off slowly. This is the hardest part of the entire delid. Do NOT use a razer blade, PERIOD.

To reglue (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED), apply four VERY VERY VERY tiny dabs of RTV silicone (Permatex RTV) on each corner of the IHS. The less glue you use, the better. Remember this. RTV is on Amazon for cheap, like $7 bucks or something. Then relid with the kit and let it cure for about 2 hours.

*the MOST IMPORTANT THING* is to protect the backside of the CPU! Where all those small caps are. That's what you want to be careful with.

Yeah you're desk would probably work just fine. It shouldn't make a huge mess, it's not like you're using a power sander haha.

The CLU is just extremely hard to clean off copper, as in it bonds to it. You end up having to use some sort of abrasive to really get it off. With a lapped IHS, or lapped block, you'd probably end up having to "relap" it with some higher grit sandpapers (800+) to return to a clean copper finish.

You can certainly lap the H80 and GPU blocks, but I would take them off and check them with a nice straight edge first. I would also only use the Gelid on those coolers, the H80 and GPU blocks. It will be much easier to clean if future removal is required and Gelid is some highly rated stuff already.

I would seriously recommend using the knife/razor method to remove the IHS. Like the saying it's "so easy, a caveman could do it" lol. Buy an X-ACTO #2 knife handle and their #26 whittling blade. Or one of their kits that includes those since you'd get a lot more for your money if you had other uses. The #26 blade is the perfect length/width that you can easily judge how deep it's slicing through the glue, and long enough that you can hold it along the entire length of one side of the IHS after you cut through the corners.

Here's some crappy paint pics that should help explain the process:

Part 1 - http://i.imgur.com/MvYMYjL.png

Part 2 - http://i.imgur.com/J4Vc3C9.png

The reason I'm recommending the X-ACTO setup so highly is you have much greater control with the size of that blade attached to a real handle. Whereas if you used the typical loose razor blade like this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GWfZ_4BQK7s/hqdefault.jpg

or this:

http://s19.postimg.org/zco5sqnsj/image.jpg

is harder to control, harder on the fingers, and you risk using too much force and pushing through the glue too far. The X-ACTO handle eliminates this imo.

This image really helps illustrate how much glue can be on there, and where the die/transistors are in relation to everything. So use that as a clue when you start your cuts. Like I previously said, the size (width of the cutting edge to non-cutting edge) of the #26 X-ACTO blade helps with visualizing how deep your cuts are getting.

http://i.imgur.com/6or5ATh.jpg?1

Now if this sounds complicated or risky, please let me assure you it's not that difficult. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible with my explanation to help ease your concern. Using the method I described I had the IHS off in less than 5 min and I had never delidded anything before. The X-ACTO knife is so sharp. I mean it might feel like it takes more force than you'd think to cut through, but once it's off you'll be like "wow, that was easy."

This is the Liquid Electrical tape I used on the transistors after delid:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85120-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B003ERU04W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519375

This is a solid X-ACTO kit that has the blade and handle I'm recommending, but you could buy them separately for cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-X5028-Xacto-Do-It-Yourself-Set/dp/B000HGMA7I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519412

Sandpaper you can get anywhere. I'd recommend the 3M Wetordry stuff. They're usually sold in packs with different grit ranges and sheet quantity. Maybe you could get single 9x11" sheets of individual grits at an auto parts store or something though.

> Also is there a reason you're favoring skylake over kaby, or is it just price?

> If price isn't an issue then you might as well get a 7700k (even if you don't want to OC). The 'K' can make your rig last another year or two past it's prime so I think it's worth the extra $30 or so

Haha, I guess that's an "oops". I've been speccing this system out for a few months now, and when I looked at the i7s before deciding on a Xeon (which I'm now changing my mind on), Kaby Lake was either brand new or not out yet.

I had also ruled out the "K" series thinking that using "overclocking" parts for a stable work machine would be a bad idea, but it's sounding like that's not the case.

> I'm curious what case are you going for? Since you don't need a gpu there's some really cool sff options, there are some mITX cases that are small enough to fit in a backpack.

Well, that part is interesting... I need this to be portable, so that a few times a year I can take it on a plane from my home (where I'll normally work) to my company's office across the country. Hence why I picked mITX.

My current leader is the Lian-Li PC-TU200B, which has a handle on it. Perfect. I like the Corsair 380T better, but I don't think it's going to fit onboard an airplane (either overhead bin or under a seat).

I'd also settle for a regular desktop or tower that I can strap a Geargrip Lite handle to. That might be better, even, since I hear that Lian-Li case is a real bitch to access anything internally.

If you have another suggestion for a case, I'll certainly take it. As long as it's easy to carry through an airport, fits on a plane, and fits 2x 3.5" drives and maybe 1x 2.5" drive (SSD, if the mobo doesn't have M.2), that's all I really need.

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Didn't take pics of the process, but here is the photos of the lid off https://imgur.com/a/r3AFuwm

Here is a short description of how I did it:

I used one of the super thin double-sided razor blades that go into an old shaving razor like these (non-affiliate amazon link). They are quite brittle so, I snapped a blade into 4 smaller pieces by bending it with pliers. I then slide the sharp side under the SoC lid one each side to break the seal around the edge. It slides under surprisingly easy, with slight help from the pliers. I then inserted two pieces of razor blade into opposite sides of the lid to use as guards/guides for the pliers, so I wouldn't grab the SoC itself. I grabbed the lid with the pliers and give a slight twist, it came right off. It was quite easy compared to the video I saw delidding a Pi 3 with thicker razor blades and a heat gun.

I more than appreciate all the responses. Yes it should fit that easily. The OEM cooler on a dell 630i is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Dell-Processor-Heatsink-Cooling/dp/B0029OLY1O

Well I added that recommendation to my Amazon cart. I'll order it when I get enough stuff piled in the cart as my usual. Haha. A friend with the same processor and that exact CPU cooler is debating upgrading to watercooling. Maybe I'll push $20 his way. Haha.

Again, Thanks!

I learned to OC in the late 90' ( OK, not coiled foul). In early 2000's I started using thermal diodes on CPU, RAM and GPU. This will help you see the temps and either increase heatsink and fans or reduce your OC. A good thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly, Noctua NT-H2 or Artic MX-4. Which one you should use depends on surface. Some will damage aluminium, some have enough metal particals that can short your circuits if slopped over.

http://thermal-grizzly.com/en/

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1573504592&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Micro-particles-Durability/dp/B0795DP124/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-3

I Hope this helps you.

Here's all my PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/thareaper/saved/#view=BCKsYJ

As for the silicone I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIRGB84

This is what I used for gluing down the IHS. It worked pretty well, I just used as thin of a bead as I could.

Great idea with the gauge too.

Run it with the side panel off and the fan pointed inside. It is 100% going to fuck up the airflow in your case, but the static pressure of a desk fan is going to be orders of magnitude higher than most case fans, that the sloppy airflow matters a lot less.

I'm assuming you mean something like this:

Honeywell HT-900 TurboForce Air Circulator Fan, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R1RXUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0Gnwxb1PJA3ZG

What about these 240mm?

DEEPCOOL Captain 240 RGB V2, AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, Anti-Leak Technology Inside, Sync RGB Waterblock and Fans with Cable Controller or MB with 12V 4-pin RGB Header, TR4/AM4 Supported, 3-Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPNP4VP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_regmDb6NW0FWF

Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump Latest Intel/AMD Support (MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QhgmDbA1Q3Z38

O well my room isn't that hot haha but probably around 80ish degrees or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77 - shows around $50

Was actually looking at the Arctic Freezers, saw a good review on youtube other day.

If I'm not mistaken, this one has greater chance while being cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGPH9R9/ref=twister_B07Q9F2FMR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you were to lower the cost of your memory and completely remove your DVD drive (install Windows using a USB drive), you can pick up one of the NH-D14's. They're very popular and are just as good as Corsair/Asetek CLC's.

240mm, $75, first 240mm result for liquid cooler on Amazon.

Edit: Here's a better one for only $70.

Edit 2: And here's a 360mm one for $100.

So here's advice from my experience:

• Research, research, research. You'll find a lot of videos online, here on reddit, youtube (when it's online Kappa), and on various websites. GamersNexus is pretty much the most trustworthy group I looked up to in terms of doing research the whole process
  
• if you wish to relid your IHS to your CPU, use a silicon adhesive with high temperature resistance. I purchased "J-B Weld 32329 Ultimate Black". You do not need to apply a large amount; just enough to seal it up. I noticed what when I delidded my CPU, there's a small opening on the sealant- in other words, it wasn't fully sealed up- not sure why... (if anyone has any knowledge on this, please chime in. I, too, am curious.)
  
• USE THE NAIL POLISH! The nail polish I used was the same one as GamersNexus used for their protective coat. Here's the Link: Nail Polish . You're going to want to use this to coat the small 4 dots, you don't need much, just enough to cover them up.
  
• Everyone uses Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and I did as well. Shot 25 degrees down (had a 120mm upgraded to a 280mm). So this is where it gets sort of tricky because I messed up on my relidding- I didn't apply enough liquid metal to the Die. But still, I advise you to use only a small dot on the Die, spread it out, and apply another dot on the IHS, and spread it out as well. Don't flood the thing, start off small and slow.
  
  Hope this helps ya. If I missed anything, or my advice is wrong, feel free to correct me. I'm just giving my 2 cents off my experience.

this might be a better choice

https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Motherboard-Adapter-Connector-Extension/dp/B0789QD8MS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mining+psu+cable&qid=1562022445&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If you mean the NVIDIA settings panel, I haven't changed anything in there. I can see my performance is set to optimal and can be changed to max performance. Is there anything else I should change in there by default?

When it comes to RAM I bought this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0134EW7G8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don' think that it is OC'd and I do not believe that I have XMP enabled as I haven't changed any BIOS settings either.

Leave it at 3.6 unless you get better cooling. Scythe Mugen Rev B or Fuma are excellent and affordable coolers that can max out any 6-core Ryzen OC.

Your CPU might not be quite as bad as you think, higher temps decrease stability requiring more voltage, which in turn increases temps even further.

IMO it's pretty shit for overclocking as it likely either incorporates Hynix AFR or CJR.

​

For around that price I'd go with Crucial Ballistix (AES SKU) as I was able to get them to 3733 cl16 with decent timings. They clock very well frequency wise and are the next best thing to b die imo - insane for the price.

There's no way you can get the temps down to where you'd want them with a 212 evo at 4.7GHz with 1.42V. You'd have to upgrade the cooler or be happy with 4.5GHz.

Cooler suggestions:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835856003

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103234

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835494019

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16835709001

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A/

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA66Z25Z9878

I personally don't think spending $60+ on such an old platform just to get 200MHz more overclock is a great idea. But it's not like you couldn't use the cooler in a future build. If that's the case, I'd go for an air cooler. Water coolers last about 4 years before the pump fails. When the pump fails, there is a chance the liquid can heat up enough to cause a leak.

I'd recommend Noctua, they beat some aio water coolers.

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A/

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NF-A15x2-Cooling-Premium-NH-D15/dp/B00L7UZMAK/

The Yelloblade

Do you know the yelloblade? (All Shrek jokes aside).

This is the gasket maker. You do not need 3.5oz of gasket maker unless you're doing deliding projects left and right - or meant to use it for what it was actually meant for.

It's not powerful at all, it's a little $12 fan. The blown air is definitely cooler than the air in the case, the air is simply coming from the direction of the living room.

https://www.amazon.de/Ballistix-BLS2K8G4D30AESBK-Speicher-PC4-24000-288-Pin/dp/B07MGPH9R9/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

​

75 euro and you can decrease the price further with amazon coupons, they also went on sale few times this month.

Oh, forgot to mention that- my RAM is this corsair vengeance- https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8

It seems to only want to max out at 3066Mhz.

Just found that my motherboard has a new BIOS update though, so I'll try installing that

This is the thermal paste I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY/

It's damn expensive though. Thermal Grizzly probably better and cheaper.

You can't beat the NH-D14 for $70. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A

I see 55-60C gaming temps at 4.6ghz with this cooler.