I know you said you checked your PC with anti-virus programs but what programs did you try using? Have you tried using Bitdefender Internet Security 2017 (free trial), HitmanPro, ComboFix, and Malwarebytes? Did you try each of those programs in regular Windows and in safe mode? Have you tried scanning before booting Windows with a rescue disk like Bitdefender Rescue CD or another anti-virus rescue disk?

If you haven't used all those programs, you might want to try them.

1. Download the programs I listed (they're all free or free trials). For Bitdefender, you want to download the free 30-day trial of Bitdefender Internet Security 2017.
   
   
2. Burn the rescue disk(s) to CDs or USB drives.
   
   
3. Install HitmanPro. Let it run it's scan in regular Windows. Remove anything infected that it finds.
   
   
4. Restart the PC and boot into safe mode.
   
   
5. Use HitmanPro and run the scan in safe mode. If it finds anything that it didn't find or couldn't remove in regular Windows, let it remove it in safe mode.
   
   
6. Restart the PC, boot into regular Windows and repeat the process with ComboFix.
   
   
7. Do the same process with Malwarebytes.
   
   
8. Finally, install the 30-day free trial of Bitdefender Internet Security 2017 and let it run the full scan.
   
   
9. If you think there could still be something infecting the PC, insert the rescue disk CD or USB drive that you already burned, and restart the PC, so you can boot from the rescue disk, before Windows starts. Let the rescue disk run the scans and remove anything infected it finds. Rescue disks that boot before Windows starts, are able to remove the most stubborn infections and are usually the last resort.
   
   
10. Restart your PC and test it out. See if the problems are fixed. If everything seems to be working well, that's good and you're done.
    
    
11. If those steps didn't work, you can try a system restore.
    
    
12. If the system restore doesn't work, you will probably need to try and reinstall Windows.
    
    
13. Make sure you buy a good anti-virus program like Bitdefender Internet Security 2017 or if you have multiple computers or devices, you might want to consider Bitdefender Total Security 2017. Bitdefender is currently the best antivirus for home users that use Windows (I can send proof if you want.) There's no need to spend a bunch of money as you can often find antivirus software on sale or get rebates so it's cheap. I've never paid more than $20 for a 3-year subscription to Bitdefender. Check out sales on Newegg: Bitdefender, Amazon: Bitdefender, and especially eBay: Bitdefender. Newegg and other retailers often sell products on eBay, cheaper than on their website. Right now, on eBay, one of the first results for Bitdefender, was Bitdefender Internet Security 3 PCs for 2 years for only $20, so I'm sure they have it cheaper for one PC. (Note: I don't work and have never worked for Bitdefender or any other anti-virus or software company. I don't get paid or pushed to promote Bitdefender or any products. I'm an IT tech and I have read the reviews and tried out many of the top antivirus/security programs myself and have found Bitdefender to consistently be the top anti-virus for Windows. At past jobs, I was pushed to promote Norton and I wouldn't do it. Norton is promoted because they pay a lot of money to almost every retail store and website to push their products. I've personally had several clients that have had severe infections and got their identities and all their financial information stolen and had their PCs destroyed while using Norton. I will never recommend Norton, as long as other products are available.)
    
    Make sure you backup any important files before you mess with anything. If you don't have an external hard drive (which every computer owner should have), you can use free services that provide a small amount of storage space, like Dropbox, Google Drive, and One Drive. If you don't currently have an external hard drive, you should consider getting one from Western Digital (WD), like the WD My Passport.
    
    These links may also help...
    
    

• How to Use the BitDefender Rescue CD to Clean Your Infected PC
  
  
• How to Combine Rescue Disks to Create the Ultimate Windows Repair Disk
  
  
• Best Bootable Antivirus Rescue Disks for Severely Infected Computers
  
  
• Comprehensive List of 26 Bootable Antivirus Rescue CDs for Offline Scanning
  
  
• Five Best System Rescue Discs
  
  
• Top 5 Free Rescue Discs for Your Sys Admin Toolkit
  
  Let me know if you tried this and if it worked or not. If not, there are some other things it could be. If you have any questions or anything, feel free to PM me. I try to check reddit every day.

I'd encourage you to look into 1440p displays. Better picture quality than 1080p with much lower performance impact than 4k. It's more or less the ideal resolution for your GPU. You'll get 60+ fps on most new games.

Additionally, there is very little native 4k content out there (outside of gaming). As I understand it, the only web browser capable of displaying even 1080p content on Netflix is Edge. I don't even think the Windows App lets you watch in 4k, though I haven't done much research on this; you may want to look it up.

For just a little more than that 4k display you listed, you can get a 1440p 144hz G-Sync monitor (I can't overstate how wonderful G-Sync is).

These are worth a look:

• Dell S2716DG (TN)
  
  
• Asus PG278Q (TN)
  
  
• Asus PG279Q (IPS)
  
  
• Acer XB271HU (IPS)
  
  Or course, you could save some money by going with a 60hz panel, or a 144hz without G-Sync. My brother has this Dell monitor; it's only 60hz and it doesn't have G-Sync, but the picture quality is fantastic for the price.
  
  For what it's worth, I use the PG279Q that I linked with a GTX 980ti, which performs very similarly to your 1070, and it really is the 'sweet spot' for that card.
  
  Good luck with your search!
  
  Edit: That 1080p Asus monitor you mentioned looks pretty great too. I'd choose that over 4k any day, but it's all personal preference in the end.

The choice between headphones and speakers depends strongly on your own situation and needs. I used to have a surround sound speaker setup and then I realised I could never use it properly because it was awkward to setup and because of disturbance to housemates and neighbours so I replaced it with a simple but effective set of Creative T20s and a high quality set of Senheiser cans. The T20s have lovely sound and are perfect for listening to music or videos at acceptable volume while I use the headphones when blowing shit up in games.

Here are some personal observations/preferences/possible prejudices:

1. I like the T20s because they have decent base without needing a sub whoofer. I have had bad experiences with boomy subwhoofers.
   
   
2. Unless you live in a concert hall you are never going to get perfect sound with speakers. The average size room has resonances bang in the audio range.
   
   
3. If like me you are going to spend a lot of time wearing headphones then prioritise comfort.
   
   
4. You don't need surround sound headphones. You have only two ears and modern games produce exactly the same 3D audio effect with standard headphones.
   
   
5. Headphones designed for gaming are almost always terrible. Buy a set of hifi cans and you will get much better sound for your money.
   
   
6. Hifi enthusiasts generally look down on trendy fashion brands like Bose and Beats.
   
   
7. If you need a mic for multiplayer gaming then you have a dilemma. Headsets with built in mic usually aren't optimised for sound quality. I use a separate lapel mic but having a second cheap headset is another option.
   
   
8. I have used one of these for years and love it. It allows you to switch between speaker and headphones at touch of a button. You can do this in software but I just like having a physical button.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WCNF2G/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
   
   Edit: Amazon link was out of stock. Replaced it. Also fixed "separate". Would have gotten away with it if it wasn't for pesky u/CommonMisspellingBot

Keep it clean, both software and hardware wise. Dust is a bitch and it can cause thermal issues. Since you have a laptop you should at least air dust it maybe twice a month, by taking out the bottom and air blowing the heat sinks and fans (DONT LET THEM SPIN too much, hold them down or tape them down when air dusting them).

I have a can-less air duster from amazon this (https://www.amazon.com/EasyGo-CompuCleaner-Electronic-Alternative-Compressed/dp/B00S7CH6FK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511903628&sr=8-5&keywords=canless+air+duster) bit pricey but worth it.

No need for antivirus, windows defender is super solid, just use your common sense when it comes to navigating the internet and downloading programs, it will remind you to run a system scan if you have not done one in a while. Furthermore, malewarebytes is a great addition that can help keep your system clean. I also use CCleaner to clean out my browsing history and cookies.

Keep the system cool, gaming laptops have come a long ways now, but they still can get a bit toasty especially during long gaming sessions. Any chill pad that directly feed air into the intakes should do a good job of keeping your laptop chill.

When downloading a new game, make sure you have the latest graphics drivers, nvidia tend send out their newest drivers whenever there is a big game being released.

The stuttering, not sure if it's fixed or not. Blacklight retribution stuttered like crazy, dx11 fixed stutter but broke the game(google search confirmed dx11 is broke for that game), jumped in planetside 2 later and seemed to not stutter and looked smoother, but could just be random luck and will be back next time I play :/ As far as Ryzen, was looking at it but kinda questioning it though. The leaked benchmarks look to be between the i7 6800k and i7 6900k, but for gaming looked to fall between the i5 6500 and the i5 6600(the difference was only a couple percent between both the i5's and the Ryzen). Also seems all the Ryzen versions are overclockable, as long as you have one of the boards they allow you to overclock on(which was like 3).The price is unknown at this point, so who knows if the Ryzen or an i5 would be better for the price, and for all we know the benchmarks might look good but then the Ryzen could just fall on it's face when thrown in with different systems once released.

> Alternatively you could pick up a new mobo and an Intel i3

I'm thinking of just doing this after what you said, getting a new motherboard and an i3, though not sure which version to get. Looked around and kinda settled on the i3 6100 for $117 on amazon, take it this would be okay? As far as motherboards, looks like im probably going to need to buy new ram which is another $50-60 as looks like the i3 only supports DDR4(though I found DDR3 mobo that supports the 1151 socket). Looking at this Gigabyte board and this DDR4 ram which are hopefully okay.

> As a side-note, additional RAM wont make your system faster unless you're constantly running out of RAM either by browsing the net with a ridiculous number of tabs open, or audio/video editing

Yeah kinda figured, just was thinking of upgrading the ram because in planetside 2 my ram usage goes up to 88%(that's without ultra textures, that says uses more ram. Got similar usage when on all low even). Guess im basically running out of ram though. Game itself is eating up almost 6gb of ram(as my system idles around 1.80-2.30gb, not sure why it jumps around so much from start up to start up though)

Also thank you for your help so far, think this is probably the most help i've gotten so far

Thanks so much for the response. I've found a few low pro cards, but finding the power requirements is a little more challenging.

This one seems to tick all your boxes but I can't see where the PSU requirements are listed, although one of the comments mentions it being good for machines with under 300w.

Here's the Zotac I mentioned in my OP

Edit: the Zotac is listed on the manufacturer's site as being 49w, but min PSU of 300. Are they playing it safe? I would rather have 4GB than 2GB unless GDDR5 is substantially better than GDDR3

Edit Edit: GDDR5 is obviously much better than 3. So as long as that EVGA card I found is the correct spec I think it's my best choice.

azio mgk1 rgb.

https://www.amazon.com/Azio-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-MGK1-RGB/dp/B014M8Z4E2

im actually using it right now. great keyboard. im an idiot so ive spilled 3 or 4 bottles of gatorade and water on my keyboard and every key still works perfectly and is fully functional. keys feel great. and if you really care about how your keyboard looks, this one looks awesome. some very cool preset patterns and the LEDs are the perfect brightness. i recommend checking it out

The best 'it just works' options are the Xbox One Controller and Xbox one Elite controller. Either will plug in via USB or go wireless via the PC dongle (which you can buy in a pack with a controller) and the newer models of the regular controller (they don't have the shiny black part at the top and they have a headphone jack) will connect via bluetooth as well. The current Elite controller doesn't support Bluetooth but the upcoming one is supposed to. NOTE: Xbone controllers suck down batteries like you wouldn't believe in wireless mode. If you're gonna go wireless with an Xbone controller, get rechargeable batteries and something to charge them with! The wireless Xbox 360 controller works with Windows, but to make it work you'll either have to get a wireless dongle (these used to be sold in a pack with a controller, might still be available) or get the special Xbox 360-controller-to-USB cable. Wired 360 controllers are plug & play. PS4, PS3, and Switch Pro Controllers will work, but you've got to do some futzing around either with third party drivers or with Steam settings to make them work. Actually most console controllers can likely be made to work with some effort, but they're generally not gonna be plug & play solutions. Then there's third-party PC and Xbox controllers. You get what you pay for with these, cheap controllers tend to break easy. And I had a Logitech F710 for a while, its D-pad sucked and it's the most uncomfortable controller I've ever used, it's worse than a Dreamcast controller lol. And then there's the Steam Controller. It's certainly powerful and unique, but really damn hard to get used to. It's not what I'd call plug & play because even though you can just plug it in and it works, you're gonna be making all sorts of adjustments to the settings in steam to get it dialed in if you go this route.

Personally, I use the wireless Xbone controller with the pc dongle with energizer rechargeable AAs, and charge them in a Nitecore D2.

I use an xbox one. My friend uses a ps4. They're both great and a honestly a lot more comfortable than their previous gen counter parts. Bluetooth also makes them a snap to just start and play. Also the cost has gone way down on them as time has past. If you dint have bluetooth on your computer I highly recommend getting an adapter for USB. https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Computer-Keyboard-Warranty/dp/B00VWEK4IG
This is mine, its 12 bucks, you just plug it in and it works. Good luck hoe this helps

I recommend getting some Studio Over Ear Headphones, and getting a Mod Mic or Desk Mic to go along with it. I bought an Antlion ModMic for the wife, and it works great. Sounds great as well compared to all the shitty gaming headset mics. My setup is a Razer Seiren Pro that I got on a banging deal almost $100 cheaper than typical pricing :). I have a mic stand that sits right above my monitors. It does pick up echoes if I have my speakers turned up too loud, but it's not too bad. I use voice meeter banana to route all my audio to 2 separate audio devices so I can just mute my speakers and put headphones on.

 

Recommendations:
Desk Mic: Blue Yeti - ~$120, Blue Snowball ~$50
Mod Mic: Antlion ModMic ~$60, V Moda BoomPro ~$30 (V Moda Mic wont work on all headphones)
Headphones: r/Headphones | Read about headphones.

 

They come down to preference for the user typically. I have M-Audio Q40's with Beyerdynamic's EDT 770 V Replacement Pads. You probably won't be able to find any Q40's online, but I bought mine back in 2010 and I still use them today. I've replaced the audio cable probably 10+ times now. They are built to endure, and they are not that comfortable with the stock pads. Put the EDT 770 V pads on and feels like a cloud. I personally also have a desk headphone amp to get clearer/crisper sound.
As I said, this all comes down to preference. You need to research specific items you are interested in. Try to find reviews on reddit or forums. I wouldn't follow "reviews" that are articles on web pages. Half of those are BS and are generally favored towards the provider of the equipment unfortunately.
Typical google searches would be:
M-Audio Q40 headfi
Blue Yeti Pro reddit
Blue Yeti Pro Issues reddit
mod mic reddit

 

Good luck on your ventures! Let me know if you have any other questions.

PS - If you have a mechanical keyboard, invest in o-rings/pads to help with the clickiness, or if you don't have a mechanical keyboard and you are looking for one, get silent keys. I forget the actual switch types names.

You might want to check out this : Acer Aspire E 15 Laptop, 15.6" Full HD, 8th Gen Intel Core i5-8250U, GeForce MX150, 8GB RAM Memory, 256GB SSD, E5-576G-5762 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FLBJV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k9ErDbDVMW0TQ

It's not the best but I have the older model with a 940mx and I love it. It runs what I need it too, mostly Hearthstone, MTG Arena, and SWTOR.

So there is a wire that comes off of the monitor and into this box, then the wires coming off the box go into your PC? It seems you have one, possibly two options.

If the cable that goes into that box (I believe it is a mini display port cable) is NOT removable from the back of the monitor, my suggestion would be to get a cable or adapter that you will plug that boxes cable into, allowing you to plug into the Wii U.

If you can get the mini display port cable to disconnect from the monitor then this cable or this adapter should work. This option seems more likely to work if the mini display port cable can disconnect.

Note: Mac connections can be finicky, and it could possibly be proprietary (only work with other Mac products) so neither of these options are guaranteed to work, but I'd be willing to bet the $5 on it.

Also: you make the links into words by formatting it like so words

Sorry if this seems rude but im not trying to be... Have you tried to get the official controller? they sell a usb adapter for ps4 controllers now like the ones for xbox controllers

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https://www.amazon.com/Sony-DUALSHOCK-USB-Wireless-Adapter-4/dp/B01KHFIO82/ref=asc_df_B01KHFIO82/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312191966344&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=192495932872044886&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005549&hvtargid=pla-592318770404&psc=1

You need an adapter or a cable. I suppose your card is like this, there is a direct HDMI output, use that to connect one of your monitors, and then buy and adapter or cable from DVI to HDMI, or DisplayPort to HDMI cable or adapter, whatever is cheaper or in your store.

It’s not worth it at all to upgrade a laptop like yours. Gaming on a Pentium and Integrated Graphics will be a horrible experience for you.

If you have $600, buy this

This will be your best bet for the most budget gaming laptop.

Or you could look into the used market, that could be a possibility

But your 1080 is gonna have Display Ports on the back and using that is gonna give you better quality I think so get this instead

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z05JMKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Yt.hzbR2FXGXN

LITTERALY THE FIRST RESULT IN GOOGLE

https://www.amazon.fr/Rankie-C%C3%A2ble-DisplayPort-vers-R%C3%A9solution/dp/B00Z05JMKO/ref=asc_df_B00Z05JMKO/?tag=googshopfr-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=106796343001&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3079167131499329103&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9056592&hvtargid=pla-168176815275&psc=1

I suspect your VGA converter. Generally, you don't want to do analog to/from digital conversions on the cable, as things get weird. HDMI to DVI would be the right way to go.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DVI-to-HDMI-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY/