(Part 2) Best products from r/prusa3d

Look for a fysetc prusa (3 wire) fan on amazon for quick replacement with the correct molex connector and then order a few sets from Ali express (also fysetc) for super cheap to have on hand.

Their hot end fan is way better than the noctua if a bit louder.


FYSETC Prusa i3 MK3 Cooling Fan 5015 50x50x15mm 5V DC 0.35A Ｈotend Cooler Blow Radiator Sleeve Bearing for 3D Printer Parts Accessories, 2Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NTKG9K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r2GSDb2DT4CRQ


FYSETC Prusa i3 MK3 Cool Blower Fan 4010 40x40x10mm DC 5V 0.2A Hotend Cooler Radiator for 3D Printer DIY Parts Accessories, 2Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NTNQ5HF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O4GSDb8K22KAQ

I use #000 steel wool to refresh my PEI sheet.

WARNING: don't do this anywhere near the printer or you will get steel wool dust all over your magnetic bed and it stinks to get off. I speak from my own stupid experience.

After roughing up the surface just a little, I use a handheld magnet to collect most of the steel wool dust, wash with dish soap and water, then go back to vigorous 99% IPA with one wet cotton pad and one clean cotton pad before each print. I can usually use these cotton pads for about 5 prints before I need to get a new one, but they are so cheap that two per print wouldn't even be bad.

The OP has done everything I did to try and get good adhesions (except maybe the roughing up the PEI bit). I now get great adhesion and one of my products has a 100mm x 100mm fairly thin-walled box. Before getting the adhesion down, they were always pulling up at the corners in the middle of the print. Now they stay perfectly flat for the whole print.

I had the same issue.

It's actually really easy to take apart and get to the extruder if you want to check everything.

Unscrew the fans and let them dangle to the side, then you unscrew the parts that are holding the extruder in there. After that you should be able to wiggle the whole thing out.

But honestly, just by looking at your picture, it doesn't look like you have heat creep, or plastic issues. So I doubt it's going to be an issue with the heat break, block, or anything like that. So probably just the heater cartridge.

I was just in your shoes, and successfully spliced a new heater cartridge onto my old wires.

Basically snip off the old wire about 6-8 inches down, strip the wire coating, and splice on a new heater cartridge.

This is the bundle of heater cartridges I got from Amazon. They work perfectly with my MK3. The cartridge itself is slightly longer than the base, but still works without issues.

Also to make splicing easier and faster I got these and they have been working really great.

I actually bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7TLLRN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Setup was fairly straightforward and the screen quality seems good, calibration was spot on out of the box as well. The issue I have is that it doesn't have the two mounting screw holes that hang off of it like the Adafruit one does, so I have the pi and screen zip tied to the enclosure to hold it in place. You can see this if you zoom in on the photo. I'm working on a more permanent mounting solution. In hindsight I wish I had spent the extra money on the adafruit version to make mounting easier.

I'd also

• put temporary tape over the magnets prior to beginning: After months of use, the adhesive keeping the magnets in place had lost its strength and magnets flew out like crazy. Tape keeps 'em in place while you hold the nylock nuts in place with pliers or a wrench. Don't remove the tape until you have completed step 8.
  
  
• In the event a magnet does pop out, get some fast-setting glue that's rated for temperatures up to 120C. Then put tape over it to make sure it doesn't pop out again, causing a chain reaction with other magnets. It's a bitch to get them off one another if they have glue on them.
  
  
• put nylon washers between the bed and the nylock nuts. Some people reported rattling noise after doing the nylock mod and these washers should help with that. I decided to play it safe and install such washers from the start. If anyone's interested, I can dig up the Amazon link for the ones I bought. By popular demand, I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G5XSB8
  
  
• The guide I followed advised screwing the nuts on the screws with the nylon end pointing towards the bed. It's hard to get the nuts aligned just right for that; so you may want to screw the nuts on in the other orientation first, to get some threading in the nylon. I found it's a lot easier to screw them in perfectly straight WITH the nylon pointing towards the PCB after that.
  
  The nylock mod is amazing and when combined with the 7x7 mesh bed leveling you can safely use the entire surface of your heated bed without having to worry about prints coming loose due to bed level variance.

Thank you so much for the reply! The filament is a couple weeks old now, but is a transparent PLA, the other filament I was having similar issues with was a black PLA+. I had originally thought it was a nozzle issue, so I actually just replaced the nozzle with a hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle. I just picked up some standard Inland Gray PLA, so I will give that a shot and see if I see similar results or not (maybe it is just the filament)

The filament I was using is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some possibly relevant notes: This was printed at 210, I tried printing it at 205 (that caused layer adhesion issues) but noticed even at 210 I was getting weak layer adhesion,, so I upped it to 220 which seemed a bit better, and while I'm still seeing stringing, at least its adhering a bit better, but still pretty brittle.

When I started, I was looking for 91% or 99% wipes and didn't have much luck. Today on Amazon I see 91% wipes: Box of 50 for $18. Ridiculous. Spray would work well, but I also like to feel the bed in case there are small bumps that need to be cleaned off.

I've settled on using: 91% iso alcohol (ultra cheap, from Walgreens or WalMart, probably), a push-down alcohol dispenser https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MI85FC ($5, singe purchase), and Kimtech Wipes (also great for glasses, etc.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UB6IKC (280 wipes per box, 3 boxes for $8.40). Using this method, I actually use the Alcohol+wipes on lots of things.

I need to find a local source for 99% iso. The stuff online all feels expensive.

The yellow filament is the cheapest yellow filament I could find on amazon that got good reviews https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MBCBRMN/ , the roll that showed up was branded label pros, this was my first print with it and I'm pretty impressed considering it I see no difference between it and the blue and the white (hatchbox) and the black (amazon basics).

I really want to try soluble filament but the BVOH is just too expensive for me, do you know of any good PVA filament? I don't mind having to fight a bit as long as it works in the end, I was looking at the eSUN PVA but at $40 for 0.5KG I want to be sure I can make it work before paying that much for it.

He gives an instruction sheet with it. Let me snap a picture.

https://imgur.com/a/YMTTaj1

Sorry about the cell phone pictures. I don't have a scanner anymore since I went to a cheap color laser printer.

edited to say: I need to break down my MK3s and put in those tubes but haven't done it yet as I'm waiting to finish doing upgrades to my ender3 and setup my anycubic photon, basically I can't be without a 3d printer and have been limping by with my MK3s with the jamming issue. I currently follow this guide: http://projects.ttlexceeded.com/3dprinting_jams.html

and bought these brass rods on Amazon which is working perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6LUO5Q

Buy some [3D printer surfaces](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TW738G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) off of Amazon, cut it to shape and use it to replace the PEI. I've had much success also sticking one on the spring steel sheet and using the steel side for super sticky PETG and the other side for everything else.

Yeah, a second external mosfet. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1526154992&sr=8-19&keywords=mosfet The MK2/S has had a history of having arching and melting in the plug they use to hook the heat bed to the RAMBO. That's why the MK3 uses screw terminals so its less necessary. They're much safer and more robust. The PSU has a spare empty 12V +/- terminal. So I desoldered the heatbed end. Ran those leads to the on/off signal input of the external mosfet. The RAMBO bed output now becomes a lower amperage enable/disable signal. Then I ran new power leads from the PSU to the power in on the mosfet then power out to the bed, soldering those new leads onto the bed. Printed a small enclosure and use some self adhesive velcro to stick it to my rambo case. Aint pretty, but the risk of a meltdown is greatly reduced. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry.

I vote that at every RepRap festival there should be a Prusa build-off competition where they replace the Haribo Gold Bears with the Albanese Sugar Free kind instead. Anyone who manages to finish building the printer gets to keep it.https://www.amazon.com/Albanese-Candy-Sugar-Assorted-5-pound/dp/B00DE4GWWY/

I'm not sure where you can get the terminated cable (did you check the Prusa shop?), but I think it's just bog standard silicone wire. I imagine you can pick some up from the usual suspects, 12 AWG would likely be ample. A nice perk of it being a 24v system is half the current needed. Searching randomly (not vouching for this product) https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B01ABOPMEI seems like it'd do just fine. I have some in a bag branded TUOFENG that I can vouch for actually being wire?

Okay,

Would this cartridge be okay for my prusa mk2s?

HICTOP Cartridge Heater 24V 40W for 3D Printer Prusa Mendel (Pack Of 3) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HGIMI2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EGG0CbER0SBFZ

Thanks for the help, I got worried that I would have to disassemble the whole extruder part or have to do some sketchy welding^^

it could be used for more than just the R3 parts. plenty of good petg on amazon that will work for about $25 shipped. might even be able to find some cheaper elsewhere too. just a thought.

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https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Black-Printer-Filament/dp/B01LZ5P5VN/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1536140768&sr=1-18&keywords=petg

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https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Filament-Printer-Opaque/dp/B00ZAUQZTA/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1536140768&sr=1-4&keywords=petg

Hey..thank you for your reply..

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concerning 3) the print is not getting prperly squished in the middle... and i a adjust Live Z then , it will be oversquished on the right...

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Concerning 5) i have the printer on a dense felt pading ( like the on for furnitures)..i removed the rubber feet.

and i am planing to grease the bearings...using https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00295AZ90/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&psc=1 ...i dont know if its ok

The biggest changes are the passthrough ptfe fitting which requires:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541897 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541897 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SRBDS7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 'rewind' spool holders: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467

And this revised selector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3310038

Would you be interested in a longer post of my troubleshooting process?

You just need a hardened steel nozzle, but the ruby one is cased in brass so you get the awesome conductivity with the durability of ruby. It comes in a freaking jewelry box. Anyway here you go. https://www.amazon.com/Olsson-Ruby-Nozzle-0-4mm-Filament/dp/B07FQRN67K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536892984&sr=8-1&keywords=olsson+ruby

I'm about 1/2 way through my assembly. Here's a few tips:

• Use cardboard from the frame/bed as a mat. Keeps scratches & oils off your build surface. https://sunnyside.smugmug.com/Other/Misc/i-8mZ3TNN/A
  
• You may want to pick up a set of jeweler's files. I found I was using them on a regular basis to clear out many of the M3 holes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019N6CV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• When assembling the Idler Assembly (Section 5, Step 5), us a pair of channel-locks to seat the pulley shaft. I used both channel-locks and a broad tipped center punch to get the right off-set of the shaft. https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/prusa3d/5NNZYZwJQNJNHaTB.full

As recommended, these are the one's I bought. Here's a picture as they have arrived.

you should get this https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Cooling-50x50x15mm-Radiator-Accessories/dp/B07NTKG9K4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=prusa+print+fan&qid=1573783857&sr=8-2, it is a drop in replacement. I got this when I broke my print fan, and it works exactly the same.